Philae Temple: An Enchanting Mirage Poised on Water
As our journey “Wander in Egypt” continues, we embark on a voyage across shimmering waters to reach an island that was once hailed as the “Pearl of Egypt”, a sanctuary graced by the presence of ancient temples and rich history waiting to be discovered.
Sense of Wander: ★★★★★
The Philae Temple, often referred to as the "Pearl of Egypt," serenely overlooks the tranquil waters of the Nile River.
ASWAN, Egypt — Following an enchanting excursion to the Unfinished Obelisk in an ancient quarry, we set off on a naval expedition towards one of Aswan's most breathtaking ancient wonders: the Philae Temple.
In the era of the pharaohs, each temple was dedicated to a single deity, often situated at the birthplace or resting place of that god. Proximity to the Nile River was essential, as ancient Egyptians relied on boats to reach these sacred sites, and all the necessary temple equipment was transported by water.
Nestled several miles south of Aswan, the Philae Temple Complex is situated on an island accessible only by boat. Notably, the Philae Temple we’re visiting, situated on Agilkia Island that rests in an artificla lake between the Aswan Low Dam and the Aswan High Dam on the Nile River, is not its original location.
The completion of the Aswan Low Dam in 1902 cast a looming shadow over numerous archaeological sites along this stretch of the river, including the Philae Island. The construction of the Aswan High Dam that followed presented an even graver threat to these ancient treasures, subjecting them to periodic floods. In the 1970s, the Egyptian Government and UNESCO devised a plan to painstakingly relocate the entire complex of imperiled temples from Philae, block by block, to the nearby Agilkia Island. This strategic move ensured the temples’ survival above water, even in the wake of the high dam’s completion. Today, Philae may rest beneath the water's surface, but the relocated temple complex remains remarkably well-preserved.
Journey to the Philae Temple
En route to the Philae Temple, the striking juxtaposition of rugged boulders and vibrant greenery captivates the senses.
Bathed in the embrace of the Egyptian sun and caressed by a gentle breeze, we followed our guide, Mohammed, toward a quaint jetty, where a waiting boat promised refuge from the relentless sun's rays. In no time, we arrived at our long-awaited destination: the south shore of Agilkia Island, where our boat docks.
In the old times, Philae was famed for its approach by water, and this timeless allure remains unchanged despite its relocation to Agilkia Island. The distant shoreline revealed boulders and the lush greenery, echoing the mesmerising description penned by 19th-century British novelist Amelia B. Edwards in her voyage:
“Seen from the level of a small boat, the island, with its palms, its colonnades, its pylons, seems to rise out of the river like a mirage. Piled rocks frame it on either side, and the purple mountains close up the distance. … if a procession of white-robed priests bearing aloft the veiled ark of the God, were to come sweeping round between the palms and pylons–we should not think it strange.”
As we draw nearer to the island, it became clear why Philae had once been hailed as the "Pearl of Egypt". Gracefully poised on the water, the temples, adorned with their timeless colonnades, exuded an aura of classical grandeur, even in their partial state of decay. One couldn't help but imagine the splendour of this place during its zenith.
Intricate carvings of pharoahs and Egyptian deities are found on the wall of the First Pylon of the Philae Temple in Aswan, Egypt.
Unveiling the Cult of Isis
Philae Island, once a revered epicenter of the Isis cult, predominantly boasts the temple dedicated to this ancient Egyptian goddess.
The island's most ancient temple, dating back to the reign of King Nectanebo II (360-343 B.C), offers a glimpse into the closing chapter of Pharaonic Egypt. Subsequent structures were commissioned by the Ptolemaic kings, while the temple complex received further expansions under the watchful gaze of Roman emperors, including Diocletian (reigned 284–305 A.D) who visited Philae in person.
As we traverse a vast open-air courtyard bordered by majestic colonnades, we we’re led to the first pylon, a monumental gateway that dwarfed our presence. Adorning its facade are intricate carvings portraying various Egyptian deities, including Osiris, Isis, and their son Horus, bearing the likeness of a falcon. Some of Egypt's most illustrious pharaohs have also been immortalised here, depicted in battle and making offerings to the gods. These timeless scenes, spanning millennia, continue to evoke a profound sense of wonder.
Our knowledgeable guide shed light on the significance of the king's protective role depicted on the wall, serving as a powerful metaphor for the safeguarding of Egypt itself.
In a land where the Sun held paramount importance as a divine entity, it comes as no surprise that Isis, one of the most revered goddesses, held a strong solar association. At Philae, Isis was venerated as a Sun Goddess, her likeness gracing the entrance alongside hymns dedicated to the deity:
“Oh Isis golden one who illuminates the Two Lands with your beams and fills the earth with gold dust (sun-light).”
During the Ptolemaic times, gilding temple exteriors with gold leaf was commonplace. One can only imagine the temple’s former glory, radiating with golden luminescence.
In antiquity, pilgrims from across Egypt embarked on spiritual journeys to this sacred site, primarily to pay homage to the sanctuary of Isis and the tomb of Osiris.
According to Egyptian mythology, it was on this very isle that Isis discovered the heart of her beloved Osiris after his treacherous brother, Seth, murdered him, scattering his body parts across Egypt to prevent his resurrection.
As Philae was deemed one of Osiris's resting places, the island's soil was considered divine, and only the priests were allowed access. How fortunate modern travellers are to step onto this once-sacred ground, a privilege once reserved solely for a select few.
Christian symbols frequently intermingle with hieroglyphs and ancient Egyptian symbols on the walls of the Philae Temple
Presence of Christian Symbols in Egyptian Temple
As you wander the sacred confines of the Philae Temple, it's not uncommon to encounter Christian symbols carved onto the temple's facade, walls, and colonnades. This raises a fascinating question: Did the ancient cult of Isis evolve to incorporate these Christian symbols?
In the year 380 A.D, Theodosius the Great issued a decree mandating people to convert to Christianity. Just a year later, he ordered certain temples to be converted into Christian churches, while closing down the rest.
The worship of Osiris continued on Philae until the reign of Justinian in 527 A.D, when the emperor dispatched a force to Philae with orders to dismantle the worship of Osiris and Isis. The magnificent hypostyle hall, once a centre of ancient rituals, transformed into a Christian church. Many of the images adorning its walls were concealed beneath layers of Nile mud. Priests found themselves incarcerated, and the coveted temple gold was seized. Nubians were compelled to convert to Christianity.
While a Coptic Christian church was indeed constructed, no physical remnants of it endure to this day. Nevertheless, a Coptic inscription, currently housed in Cairo's Egyptian Museum, reveals that a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary thrived on Philae during the first half of the 8th century. This discovery made in 1902 serves as a testament to the ever-evolving spiritual tapestry that spans the ages on this sacred isle.
The Temple of Hathor is located to the east of the Temple of Isis
Wandering in the Philae Temple Complex
Located to the eastern side of the Temple of Isis, you’ll discover the Temple of Hathor, an architectural marvel that boasts a colonnaded kiosk adorned with 14 majestic pillars, a pronaos (vestibule), and a sacred cult terrace overlooking the Nile River.
The most impeccably preserved section of this structure is undoubtedly the main temple chamber, adorned with the temple's most awe-inspiring reliefs. Among them, one can admire a captivating scene depicting a group of musicians serenading an assembly of ancient Egyptian deities. Walking through this main chamber, a picturesque journey unfolds, leading you to the enchanting terrace that gazes out upon the Nile River. Here, you'll be enveloped by the lush greenery of swaying palm trees.
Standing in proud proximity to the Temple of Hathor, Trajan's Kiosk, locally known as the Pharaoh's Bed (سرير فرعون), commands attention. This architectural gem is a hypaethral temple, characterised by its open-air design with columns forming a partial wall. The kiosk boasts 14 imposing columns crowned with intricately carved floral capitals. Stepping inside this sanctum, you'll be captivated by the reliefs adorning the walls, depicting Emperor Trajan (reigned 98-117 A.D) presenting offerings to the divine, seamlessly merging Egyptian and Roman influences.
Intriguing inscriptions, some of them resembling surgical instruments, can be discovered on the stone slabs scattered near the Temple of Hathor
A journey through Upper Egypt would typically include a visit to the renowned Abu Simbel Temple, but an excursion to the Philae Temple complex is an experience not to be missed. In fact, the Temple of Isis at Philae shares a striking similarity with Abu Simbel, as both were relocated to safeguard them from the threat of flooding.
While the temple no longer serves its original function, some things never change. Approaching and departing from this complex by boat mirrors the age-old Egyptian practice, offering a glimpse into how worshippers of antiquity would have paid homage to this sacred centre.
Philae Temple provides a respite from the bustling tourist sites of Egypt. Despite the presence of some visitors, a prevailing sense of serenity and tranquility envelops the complex, creating an oasis of calm.
Following your visit, indulge in a delectable Nubian feast at the Solaih Nubian Restaurant. Here, you'll savour the most authentic Nubian delicacies, including okra stew, bamiya (بامية), mashed fava beans (فول مدمس), green soup, mulukhiya (ملوخية), stuffed pigeon (حمام محشي), and much more.
Tips for wanderer — what other places to visit in Aswan:
The Unfinished Obelisk
Climb up to the Tombs of the Nobles
Aswan High Dam
This article is part of the “Wander in Egypt” series.
Reference:
Atiya, F. (2006). Ancient Egypt. Cairo, Egypt: Dar al-Mushaf
Isidora. (2010, January 17). Isis, the Brilliant One, the Golden Sun Goddess. ISIOPOLIS.
Vercoutter, J. (1992). The Search For Ancient Egypt. London, England: Thames & Hudson