Year of Faith Utah pilgrimage: Cathedral of the Madeleine
(Editor’s note: For the Year of Faith, which ends Nov. 24, Bishop John C. Wester has designated 12 churches in the Diocese of Salt Lake City as pilgrimage sites. This article is the first in a series about each of the sites. More information can be found at http://www.dioslc.org/images/year-of-faith/pilgrimage/Year%20of%20Faith%20Passport%20Booklet%20Version%20English.pdf.)
SALT LAKE CITY — As a pilgrim I entered the Cathedral of the Madeleine, seat of the Bishop of Salt Lake City.
It was an appropriate beginning for my journey to the 12 Diocese of Salt Lake City churches that have been designated as pilgrimage sites, because all Catholics in Utah belong to the Cathedral parish, as Bishop John C. Wester is fond of saying.
The cathedral offers a glimpse of how the Catholic Church was established in the Beehive State as well as a look at our many current contributions to the community, such as the annual Madeleine Festival of the Arts and Humanities.
The need to minister to Catholic soldiers and miners brought priests to Utah in the middle of the 19th century. When the first Catholic church was constructed in Salt Lake City, it could accommodate about two dozen people. By the time the Cathedral of the Madeleine was completed in 1909, the diocese (which then included parts of Nevada) boasted 10,000 Catholics.
The cathedral was built to inspire. Set upon a hill, its architecture mixes elements both Gothic and Romanesque, with sandstone towers soaring above the city’s skyline.
Listen, too, as you approach, for every quarter hour the Cathedral bells chime, as they also call the faithful to worship, peal for joyful occasions and toll for funerals.
The cathedral’s interior equals if not surpasses its exterior. Immediately upon entering the nave you see a kaleidoscope of colors: mauve and gold, cerulean and turquoise, the green of growing things and darkened wood, all accented by the glowing stained glass windows.
Hours could be spent perusing the cathedral’s art. A favorite pastime for children (and I suspect more than one adult) is counting the number of angels adorning the walls. The stained glass windows on either side depict the Joyful and Glorious Mysteries of the Rosary, while the Rose Window above the organ honors Saint Cecilia, patroness of music. More subtle craftsmanship is visible in the woodwork, including that decorating the confessionals.
Much of the architecture and artwork is described in a booklet designed for a walking tour of the cathedral; the guide is available in the vestibule.
Other information is included in The Story of the Cathedral of the Madeleine by Gary Topping, the diocesan archivist. Topping’s book gives insight into many people who contributed to the cathedral, and recounts anecdotes both serious and humorous. For example, he writes how, on May 14, 1928, Bishop John J. Mitty berated the men of the diocese, who had rebelled against the cathedral’s monetary woes. They grumbled these had been brought on by the second Bishop of Salt Lake City, the Right Rev. Joseph S. Glass, who replaced the cathedral’s original white walls with works by European artisans, much of which remains today.
According to Bishop Mitty’s research, contributions to diocesan expenses averaged 6.5 cents to 15 cents per person over a three-year period, Topping’s book records, and the cathedral finances were under the control of a lay committee. Topping describes Bishop Mitty detailing the situation, then saying, "I trust that this statement will kill once and for all any of the back stairs whispering about Bishop Glass’ squandering diocesan money. You did not give him any to squander, you did not give him enough for routine expenses. Any money he did spend was given to him by personal friends and not by you."
From that point, collections increased significantly, Topping reports.
Such stories give an intimate look at the fortitude and foibles of our ancestors, and a fitting preparation for a pilgrimage to the cathedral.
While the historical perspective appeals to the mind and the cathedral’s beauty draws the eye, a pilgrimage is meant to address the spirit. As Bishop Wester wrote in the letter that accompanies the diocese’s Pilgrimage Passport, a document describing the Utah churches designated as Year of Faith pilgrimage sites: "A pilgrimage is a walk or journey to a place that helps us reflect on the joys and sufferings in our life. Just as our ancestors were sometimes lost, at times we too find ourselves lost and alone, far away from God."
Attending Mass at the Cathedral of the Madeleine is an effective step on the path leading back to God. Sunday Masses include full choirs (except in the summer), incense and all the other trappings of a traditional Roman Catholic Eucharistic celebration, not to mention homilies that challenge and inspire.
Daily Mass tends to be quieter than the Sunday celebrations, but the beauty of the surroundings lends itself to sacred contemplation. The cathedral is a place where one might, as Pope Benedict XVI writes, "encounter God where He has revealed himself."
IF YOU GO: The Cathedral of the Madeleine is located at 309 E. South Temple in Salt Lake City. Daily Mass is at 8 a.m. and 5:15 p.m. The Saturday vigil is 5 p.m. in English and 7 p.m. in Spanish. Sunday Masses are 8:30 and 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. in English and 3 p.m. in Spanish. Lauds and Vespers also are offered daily; for information, visit www.utcom.org.
Public tours of the cathedral are offered, call 801-328-8941 for a schedule.
Parking in the lot north of the cathedral is limited. Street parking is allowed; observe posted signs. Numerous motels and restaurants in a variety of price ranges are near the cathedral.
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