WO2017182401A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination of surfactants, a polyol, a cationic or amphoteric polymer and optionally a silicone. - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination of surfactants, a polyol, a cationic or amphoteric polymer and optionally a silicone. Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2017182401A1
WO2017182401A1 PCT/EP2017/059033 EP2017059033W WO2017182401A1 WO 2017182401 A1 WO2017182401 A1 WO 2017182401A1 EP 2017059033 W EP2017059033 W EP 2017059033W WO 2017182401 A1 WO2017182401 A1 WO 2017182401A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
composition according
composition
chosen
alkyl
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2017/059033
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Dhimoy ROY
Maxime De Boni
Sarish JOSHI
Shubhrajit NAG
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2017182401A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017182401A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination of surfactants, a polyol, a cationic or amphoteric polymer and
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which comprises a particular combination of surfactants, one or more polyo ls, one or more polymers o f cationic and/or amphoteric nature, and, optionally, one or more silicones.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres using this composition.
  • the invention relates to the use of such a composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
  • detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos, based essentially on surfactants, for washing keratin fibers especially such as the hair.
  • These compositions are applied to the keratin fiber, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types o f soiling initially present on the hair and the scalp .
  • compositions contain substantial contents of "detergent” surfactants, which, are generally o f anionic, non ionic and/or amphoteric type, and particularly of anionic type .
  • compositions have a good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain fairly poor, owing in particular to the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long run, lead to more or less pronounced damage to the hair fibre, this damage being associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of the fibres.
  • compositions containing such conditioners are generally presented in the form o f emulsions or dispersions having varying degrees of thickness and they often have an opaque appearance that is not very attractive. More and more, consumers seek cosmetic products that have an original visual appearance.
  • compositions rich in fatty substances may be difficult to apply to the hair and may be difficult to remove, in particular may require long rinsing.
  • compositions in particular washing compositions for human keratin fibres such as hair, not presenting the drawbacks mentioned hereinabove, i. e. that present an attractive visual appearance and that can be applied easily to said fibres, and be rinsed quickly while leading to enhanced cosmetic properties .
  • composition should also have good detergent properties , and present a good tolerance especially with respect to the skin, mucous membranes, the scalp and the eyes .
  • the Applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination o f surfactants, one or more polyo ls, one or more polymers o f cationic and/or amphoteric nature, and optionally one or more silicones, makes it possible to achieve the obj ectives outlined above.
  • the subj ect of the invention is especially a cosmetic composition comprising :
  • non ionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids
  • one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers and optionally, one or more silicones.
  • the composition according to the invention has very good cleaning properties. It provides a homogeneous fo am that spreads easily and uniformly on keratin fibres and cleanses the keratinous substrate such as the hair and the scalp in a very gentle way.
  • the composition has the further advantages of being applied easily and o f being rinsed off quickly.
  • composition according to the invention furthermore exhibits high cosmetic properties, and especially affords a good conditioning o f keratin fibres such as the hair, including when these fibres are sensitized.
  • the composition o f the invention provides, for instance, excellent smoothness, so ftness and disentangling to the hair.
  • the composition further provides a good manageability o f the keratin fibres, and a good control o f frizz and vo lume.
  • composition according to the invention has an attractive and original visual appearance. It touches, feels and behaves like an oil. It is a clear and transparent composition, which is very pleasant to the consumers .
  • composition has an oil-like texture during application, but cleans the hair like a shampoo
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for washing and conditioning keratin fibres using this composition.
  • the invention relates to the use of such a composition for washing and conditioning keratin fibres.
  • Other subj ects, characteristics, aspects and advantages o f the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants .
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups .
  • a species is termed as being " anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use o f the composition o f the invention (for examp le the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • the anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture o f these surfactants may be used.
  • - carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO " ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 " ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO " ) .
  • They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl- D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C 6 -3o aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds.
  • the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • C 6 -C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C 6 -C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
  • carboxylic surfactants mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo,
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1): ⁇ -( ⁇ 0 2 ⁇ 4 )— OCH 2 COOA ( ) wherein,
  • Ri represents a linear or branched C 6 -C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C 8 -C 9 )phenyl radical, a radical R 2 CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - with R 2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
  • Ri is a C8-C20 and preferably Cs-Cis alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
  • - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10, - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:
  • Ri denotes a C 12 -C 14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
  • - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • - n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
  • R denotes a C 12 alkyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • n ranges from 2 to 10.
  • carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - acylglutamates especially of C 6 -C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
  • acylsarcosinates especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
  • acyllactylates especially of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 " ).
  • alkylsulfonates alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a- olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N- acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfo laurates; and also the salts o f these compounds.
  • the alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28 , better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group .
  • These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 1 0 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 " ) .
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts o f these compounds.
  • the alkyl groups o f these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28 , better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group .
  • These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 1 0 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: - alkyl sulphates having a C6-C24 or even a C12-C20 alkyl group,
  • alkyl ether sulphates having a C6-C24 or even a C12-C20 alkyl group and preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3- propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
  • the anionic surfactants suitable in the composition o f the present invention can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units .
  • the anionic surfactants used in the composition o f the present invention are preferably chosen from sulphate and sulfonate anionic surfactants.
  • the anionic surfactants are mo st preferably chosen from sulfosuccinates such as in particular C 12 - C20 alkylsulfosuccinates and C 12 - C20 alkyl ether sulfo succinates, and alkyl ether sulphates having a C 12 - C20 alkyl group and comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Such compounds are preferably used under the form of salts.
  • the amount of anionic surfactants present in the composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0. 1 to 15 % by weight, more preferentially from 0.3 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) .
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group . Mention may be made in particular o f (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C 2 oalkyl)amido(C3-
  • Csalkyl)betaines or (C 8 -C 2 oalkyl)amido(C 6 -C 8 alkyl)sulfobetaines.
  • R a represents a C 6 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • X " represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulphates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl or (Ci-C 4 )alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate;
  • n 0, 1 or 2;
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
  • B represents the group -CH 2 -CH 2 -0-X'
  • - X* represents the group -CH 2 -C(0)OH, -CH 2 -C(0)OZ', -CH 2 -CH 2 - C(0)OH, -CH 2 -CH 2 -C(0)OZ', or a hydrogen atom
  • - Y * represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ', -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 H or the group -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z' ;
  • Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a ' represents a C 6 -C 3 o alkyl or C 6 -C 3 o alkenyl group of an acid R a '-COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 17 alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group;
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
  • the compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid and hydro xyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.
  • - Y represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH 2 -CH(OH)- S0 3 H or the group CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z";
  • Rd and R e independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
  • Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a" represents a C6 - C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a" - C(0)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydro lysed linseed oil;
  • n and n' denote, independently o f each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants it is preferred to use (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8 -C20 alkyl)amido(C2-Cs alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C 8 -C 20 alkyl)betaines, and even more preferably cocoylbetaine.
  • the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) advantageously ranges from 0. 1 % to 15 % by weight, more preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition o f the present invention also comprises at least one non ionic surfactant chosen from polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids .
  • the fatty acids typically have a number o f carbon atoms ranging from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 22. Among these fatty acids, coco fatty acids are particularly preferred. Coco fatty acids are made of a mixture of fatty acids containing from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms .
  • the number of ethylene oxide units is preferably higher than 3, for example from 4 to 50, more preferably from 5 to 30, and even more preferably from 6 to 25.
  • the non ionic surfactants are chosen from polyethoxylated glyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyethoxylated sorbitan esters of fatty acids, and mixture thereof.
  • preferred non ionic surfactants are chosen from ethoxylated esters of C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • non ionic surfactants are chosen from ethoxylated esters of C8-C30 fatty acid and glycerol, preferably containing from 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably 5 to 30, and more preferably from 6 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • Such surfactants are preferably chosen from those having a HLB higher than 8, and preferably a HLB ranging from 9 to 15.
  • HLB means the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance at 25°C as defined by Griffin.
  • the HLB value according to G iffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pp.249-256.
  • polyethylene glyco 1-7 PEG-7
  • the non ionic surfactant chosen from polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids is preferably present in an amount ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, better still from 2 to 20% by weight, even better from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the non ionic surfactant chosen from polyethoxylated glyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyethoxylated sorbitan esters of fatty acids, and mixture thereof is preferably present in an amount ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, better still from 2 to 20% by weight, even better from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition o f the invention can also contain additional non ionic surfactants, different from the polyethoxylated esters o f fatty acids.
  • Such contain additional non ionic surfactants can be chosen from alcoho ls, a-dio ls and (C l -20)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number o f glycero l groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; these compounds may contain at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • o f non ionic surfactants o f alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the fo llowing general formula:
  • Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms;
  • R 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 1 0 and preferably 0 to 4,
  • alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which: - Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
  • R 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to
  • - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1- 6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
  • the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.
  • Cs-Ci6 alkyl(poly)glycosides 1,4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
  • the additional nonionic surfactants are chosen from (C 6 -C 2 4 alkyl)polyglycosides and more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides; polyethoxylated C8-C30 fatty alcohols preferably containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, more preferably from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide; and mixtures thereof.
  • said additional surfactant is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8%) by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5%> by weight, most preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the polyols used in the composition of the invention are preferably liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1 atm.).
  • the polyols used have the corresponding formula
  • R'i, R' 2 , R' 3 and R denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C 6 alkyl radical or a Ci-C 6 mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical,
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms,
  • n 0 or 1.
  • polyethylene glycols for instance the product known as PEG-8 or PEG-400 in the CTFA publication (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 7th edition), are particularly preferred.
  • the composition contains a mixture of at least two polyols a disclosed above, and most preferably a mixture of at least two polyols chosen from propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.
  • the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in a total amount preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention further comprises one or more polymers chosen from cationic and amphoteric polymers, and also mixtures thereof.
  • cationic polymer means in the present invention any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, that do not comprise anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups
  • the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic.
  • the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto .
  • the cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average mo lar mass (Mw) o f between 500 and 5 10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3 10 6 approximately.
  • cationic polymers mention may be made more particularly of:
  • R 3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 group
  • - A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R 4 , R 5 and R 6 which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R 2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with Ci-C 4 alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium methosulfate such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
  • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;
  • quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
  • crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyl tri(Ci-C 4 )alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinked acrylamide/ methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil may be used more particularly.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used.
  • These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • Cationic polysaccharides especially cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • the cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in FR 1 492597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer "JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or "LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group .
  • Cationic cellulo se copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-so luble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in US patent 4 13 1 576, and mention may be made o f hydroxyalkyl cellulo ses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl- ammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products so ld under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • the cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 03 1 307 , and mention may be made o f guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for examp le, of guar gums modified with a 2,3 - epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for examp le, a chloride) . Such products are especially so ld under the names Jaguar C 1 3 S , Jaguar C 1 5 , Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C I 62 by the company Rhodia.
  • Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation o f polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids fo llowed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • these derivatives mention may be made more particularly o f the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers so ld under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
  • Polymers o f this type are so ld in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case o f the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • Ri 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • Rio and Rn independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C 1 -C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R 10 and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • - Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R , Ri4, Ri5 and Ri 6 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C 1 -C4 hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or alternatively Rn, Ri4, Ri5 and Ri 6 , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R , Ri4, Ri5 and Ri 6 represent a linear or branched Ci-C 6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O- R17-D or -CO-NH-Ri7_D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • a ls R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring.
  • Bi can also denote a group (CH 2 ) hinder-CO-D-OC-(CH 2 ) protest- in which D denotes:
  • X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • Mn number-average molar mass
  • R ls R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • Ri8, Ri9, R 20 and R 2 i which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ - hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH group, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ri 8 , R19, R 2 o and R 2 i do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
  • - r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • - A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH 2 -CH 2 -0- CH 2 -CH 2 -.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Mirano l.
  • these polymers may be chosen especially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mo l% to 100 mo l% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mo l% o f units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mo l% to 100 mo l% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mo l% o f units corresponding to formula (B) .
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydro lysis o f po lyvinylformamide. This hydro lysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight-average mo lecular mass of the said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mo l, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mo l.
  • the cationic charge density o f these polymers may range from 2 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
  • the polymers comprising units o f formula (A) and optionally units o f formula (B) are so ld especially under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products so ld under the names Lupamin 9095 , Lupamin 5095 , Lupamin 1 095 , Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydro lysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates o f polyamines and o f epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from the polymers of families ( 1 ), (2), (7) and ( 10) mentioned above.
  • the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulo ses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulo se ether derivatives such as the products so ld under the name JR 400 by the company Amercho l, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, so ld under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, and homo logues thereo f o f low weight-average mo lecular weights, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrro lidone and o f vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers o f methacryloyloxy(C i -C 4 )alkyltri(C i - C 4 )alkylammonium salt
  • amphoteric polymers It is also possible to use amphoteric polymers.
  • amphoteric (or zwitterionic) polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C may denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers;
  • B and C may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one o f the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively B and C form part of a chain o f a po lymer comprising and ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one o f the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups .
  • amphoteric polymers can in particular be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
  • the units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (la) below : in which Ri denotes H or CH 3 and R 2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH 2 OH group .
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (la) .
  • the unit derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamide type o f formula (la) in which Ri denotes H and R 2 is an amino group (NH 2 ) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
  • the units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units o f structure (Ila) below :
  • R 3 denotes H or CH 3 ,
  • R 4 denotes a group (CH 2 ) k with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;
  • R 5 , R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • - Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (Ila) .
  • o f (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type o f formula (Ila) the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R 3 denotes a methyl group, k is equal to 3 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 denote a methyl group, and Y " denotes a chloride anion.
  • the units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (Ilia) :
  • R 8 denotes H or CH 3 and R9 denotes a hydroxyl group or a -NH-C(CH 3 ) 2 -CH 2 -S0 3 H group .
  • the preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which P8 denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl group.
  • the acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non- neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (Ilia).
  • the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
  • the content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
  • the content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
  • amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
  • Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and o f (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
  • the said amphoteric polymers consist so lely o f units derived from monomers o f (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyl- trialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) .
  • amphoteric polymers As particularly preferred examp les o f such amphoteric polymers, mention may be made o f acrylamide/methylacrylamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are especially so ld under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco .
  • Another preferred type o f amphoteric polymers is the polymers comprising a repetition of:
  • the non ionic monomers (i) of (meth)acrylate type are preferably chosen from C 1 - C 4 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates.
  • a preferred monomer is methyl acrylate.
  • amphoteric polymers As particularly preferred examp les o f such amphoteric polymers, mention may be made o f acrylic acid /methylacrylamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylate terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the name Polyquaternium 47. Corresponding products are especially so ld under the names Merquat 2001 and Merquat 200 1N by the company Nalco .
  • o f copolymers based on (meth) acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as copolymers o f (meth) acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride .
  • cationic and amphoteric polymers described above those having a cationic charge density ranging from 0.2 to 5 meq/g are preferred.
  • the amphoteric polymers are particularly preferred.
  • the composition of the invention comprises one or more amphoteric polymer(s) .
  • Polyquaternium 53 and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition o f the invention contains at least two different polymers chosen from cationic and amphoteric polymers, such as two different polymers, preferably two different amphoteric polymers; or three different polymers, preferably three different amphoteric polymers .
  • the total amount of cationic and amphoteric polymer(s) advantageously ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0. 1 to 5 % by weight, and most preferably from 0.4 to 3 % by weight, with regard to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may further contain one or more silicones.
  • silicones can be chosen in particular from non-amino silicones, amino silicones and mixtures thereo f.
  • sicone is intended to denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable mo lecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms.
  • hydrocarbon-based radicals that are the most common are alkyl radicals, especially Ci-Cio alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is Ci-Cio, and aryl radicals and in particular phenyl.
  • non-amino silicone denotes any silicone not containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine, or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • non-amino silicones which can be used in the composition according to the invention, are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
  • the silicones may be volatile or non- volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol.91, Jan.76, pp.27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .
  • silicones are non- volatile, use is preferably made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5xl0 "6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C and preferably lxlO "5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia - the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 cSt,
  • dimethiconol emulsions for example with anionic surfactants, preferably having a low particle size such as less than 500nm, preferably less than 200 nm.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from lxlO "5 to 5xl0 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • the silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average mo lecular masses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen from vo latile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • Products that may be used more particularly are the fo llowing mixtures :
  • a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average mo lecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, - mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric.
  • a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric.
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s.
  • This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R2S1O2/2, R3S1O1/2, RS1O3/2 and S1O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
  • organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
  • C6-C24 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the company Union Carbide, and the (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q25200, or in particular the silicone of INCI name PEG-12 dimethicone such as the product XIAMETER OFX-0193 FLUID sold by Dow Corning.
  • - thio l groups such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 7 1 from the company Genesee,
  • silicones comprising a polysiloxane portion and a non-silicone organic chain portion, one o f the two portions constituting the main chain o f the polymer and the other being grafted onto the said main chain, can also be used.
  • These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A- 412,704, ep-a-412 ,707, ep-a-640, 105 and WO95/00578 , ep-a-582, 152 and WO93/23009 and U. S . Pat. Nos. 4,693 ,935 , 4,728 ,571 and 4,972,037, the disclo sures o f which are specifically incorporated by reference herein.
  • These polymers are preferably anionic or non-ionic.
  • Such polymers are, for example, copolymers, which may be obtained by radical po lymerization from a monomer mixture comprising :
  • V is a number ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers .
  • grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the polyalkyl(methyl)acrylate type and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) on which are grafted, via a connecting chain of thiopropylene type, polymer units of the polyisobutyl(meth)acrylate type.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxane
  • the non amino silicones are chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes and polyorganosiloxanes comprising polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, and more preferentially from polydimethylsiloxanes, ethoxylated polydimethylsiloxanes and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-amino silicones which can be used in the present invention preferably have a viscosity equals to 60000 est at 25°C and shear rate 1 s "1 .
  • the viscosity may be measured at 25°C with viscosimeters or rheometers preferably with cone-plan geometry.
  • the silicones used in the composition of the invention may also be chosen from amino silicones.
  • amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
  • - T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or Ci-Cs alkyl group, and preferably methyl, or a Ci-Cs alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
  • - a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0,
  • - b denotes 0 or 1
  • - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 1 50 , it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and
  • - Ri is a monovalent group of formula -C q H 2 q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups :
  • R 2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C i -C 2 o alkyl group, and Q " represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • amino silicones corresponding to the definition o f formula (XVIII) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (XIX) below :
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3 ; a C1-C4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy; or OH;
  • A represents a linear or branched, C 3 -Cs and preferably C 3 -C 6 alkylene group;
  • m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group
  • A represents a C 3 alkylene group
  • m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000 approximately.
  • Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones”.
  • R, R' and R" which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" is an alkoxy group and A represents a C 3 alkylene group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R and R" which are different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" being an alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group and A representing a C 3 alkylene group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal to 1/0.95.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • a product corresponding to the definition o f formula (XIX) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as Trimethylsilyl Amodimethicone, corresponding to formula (XX) below :
  • R 3 represents a Ci-Cis monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C 2 -Cis alkenyl group, for example methyl,
  • R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci- Ci8 alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group,
  • - Q " is a halide ion, in particular chloride
  • - r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8, and
  • - s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • a compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
  • R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
  • R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci- Ci8 alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,
  • R8 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a group -R 6 -NHCOR 7 ;
  • X " is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
  • R 2 , R3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a Ci- C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
  • R 5 denotes a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
  • one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (XX) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula C8Hi7-C6H4-(OCH 2 CH 2 )40-OH, known under the CTFA name Octoxynol-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula Ci 2 H 2 5-(OCH 2 -CH 2 ) 6 -OH, known under the CTFA name Isolaureth-6, and propylene glycol.
  • the silicones of the invention may also be silicones grafted with anionic groups, such as the compounds VS 80 or VS 70 sold by the company 3M.
  • the amino silicones used in the present invention are the products sold under the names DC 8194, DC 8299, DC 1689, DC 5-7113, DC 8500, DC 8566, DC8170 and DC 8401 by the company Dow Corning.
  • the silicones can be used in the form of emulsions, typically having particle size ranging from 50 nm to 10 ⁇ , more preferably from 100 nm to 1 ⁇ , and even more preferably from 200 to 500 nm.
  • silicon deposition remains high, irrespective to the molecular weight, when the particle size is preferably ranging from 100 nm to 10 ⁇ .
  • the composition contains one or more non-amino silicones as described above.
  • the composition contains one or more non-amino silicones comprising polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, still better polyethyleneoxy groups.
  • the composition contains one or more polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilano l end groups (also known as dimethicono l), preferably in emulsion form, more preferably having a low particle size such as less than 500 nm, preferably from 50 nm to 500 nm.
  • polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilano l end groups also known as dimethicono l
  • the amount of silicone(s) advantageously ranges from 0. 1 to 15 % by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.7 to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may further contain one or more fatty alcoho ls, containing at least 8 carbon atoms.
  • the particular combination of surfactants and polyols o f the composition makes it possible to solubilise fatty alcoho ls in said composition while keeping an optically clear appearance thereof.
  • fatty alcoho l means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcoho l comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and which is not oxyalkylenated.
  • the fatty alcoho ls are so lid at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure ( 1 .013 * 10 5 Pa) .
  • the fatty alcoho ls are preferably chosen from the compounds of general formula (I)
  • R-OH (I) wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 1 8 carbon atoms. R preferably denotes a linear or branched C8-C30, more preferentially C 12 -C 18 alkyl or a linear or branched C8-C30, more preferentially C 12 -C 18 alkenyl group, and better still linear. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • fatty alcohols examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
  • Fatty alcohol mixtures that may be mentioned include cetylstearyl (or cetearyl) alcohol.
  • fatty alcohols that may be used according to the invention, use is preferably made of one or more fatty alcohols chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.
  • the amount of fatty alcohols, in the composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention advantageously comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.
  • cosmetically acceptable medium means a medium that is compatible with human keratin fibres, such as the hair.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium can be formed from water or from a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; and polyol ethers, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • C1-C4 lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • polyol ethers for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition advantageously comprises water in an amount preferably ranging from 30 to 98% by weight, more preferentially from 40 to 95 % by weigh, and better still from 50to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds o f the invention.
  • additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made o f cationic surfactants, anionic or non ionic polymers or mixtures thereo f, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair lo ss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, so lubilizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents .
  • the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each o f them, o f between 0.001 % and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition o f the invention is advantageously transparent.
  • the transparency of the composition may be characterized by measuring its turbidity according to the NTU method using a 2 1 OOP model turbidimeter from the company Hach, at room temperature.
  • the turbidity o f the compositions o f the invention is preferably less than 200 NTU units, more preferably less than 1 00 NTU units, even more preferably less than 50 NTU, mo st preferably less than 20 NTU and better still less than 10 NTU units.
  • the present invention concerns a composition containing :
  • non ionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated glyceryl esters o f fatty acids, polyethoxylated sorbitan esters of fatty acids, and mixture thereof, from 15 % to 30% by weight of one or more polyols,
  • one or more silicones preferably chosen from non-amino silicones comprising polyethyleneoxy groups, polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilano l end groups, and mixtures thereof,
  • the present invention also relates to a method for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, such as hair, which consists in applying to the said keratin fibres a composition as described above, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.
  • the leave-on time o f the composition on the keratin fibres may range from a few seconds to 1 5 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes .
  • composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres, preferably to wet keratin fibres.
  • the present invention relates to the use o f a composition as described above for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
  • keratin fibres denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
  • the fo llowing compositions were prepared using the ingredients indicated in the table below.
  • composition 1 Composition 2
  • composition 2 is more substantive on the hair and provided better dry hair performances.

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination of surfactants, a polyol, a cationic or amphoteric polymer and optionally a silicone The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition useful for washingand conditioning keratin fibres. Such composition comprises: -one or more anionic surfactants, -one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, -one or more non ionic surfactantschosen from polyethoxylatedesters of fatty acids, -one or more polyols, -one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers, and -optionally, one or more silicones. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for washing and/orconditioning keratin fibresusing this composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination of surfactants, a polyol, a cationic or amphoteric polymer and
optionally a silicone
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which comprises a particular combination of surfactants, one or more polyo ls, one or more polymers o f cationic and/or amphoteric nature, and, optionally, one or more silicones.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres using this composition.
Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
It is common practice to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos, based essentially on surfactants, for washing keratin fibers especially such as the hair. These compositions are applied to the keratin fiber, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types o f soiling initially present on the hair and the scalp .
These compositions contain substantial contents of "detergent" surfactants, which, are generally o f anionic, non ionic and/or amphoteric type, and particularly of anionic type .
Admittedly these compositions have a good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain fairly poor, owing in particular to the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long run, lead to more or less pronounced damage to the hair fibre, this damage being associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of the fibres.
Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly those which are to be applied to sensitized hair (i. e . hair which has been damaged or made brittle, in particular under the chemical action o f atmospheric agents and/or hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing or bleaching), it is now common to introduce additional conditioning agents such as mineral or plant oils into these compositions. These conditioners are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions to which the hair fibres are subj ected more or less repeatedly. These conditioners may, o f course, also improve the cosmetic behaviour o f natural hair.
However, the compositions containing such conditioners are generally presented in the form o f emulsions or dispersions having varying degrees of thickness and they often have an opaque appearance that is not very attractive. More and more, consumers seek cosmetic products that have an original visual appearance.
Moreover, these products may cause some drawbacks, due in particular to the presence of oils.
In particular, these compositions rich in fatty substances may be difficult to apply to the hair and may be difficult to remove, in particular may require long rinsing.
Accordingly, there is a real need to make available compositions, in particular washing compositions for human keratin fibres such as hair, not presenting the drawbacks mentioned hereinabove, i. e. that present an attractive visual appearance and that can be applied easily to said fibres, and be rinsed quickly while leading to enhanced cosmetic properties .
The composition should also have good detergent properties , and present a good tolerance especially with respect to the skin, mucous membranes, the scalp and the eyes .
The Applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination o f surfactants, one or more polyo ls, one or more polymers o f cationic and/or amphoteric nature, and optionally one or more silicones, makes it possible to achieve the obj ectives outlined above. Thus, the subj ect of the invention is especially a cosmetic composition comprising :
- one or more anionic surfactants,
- one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
- one or more non ionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids,
one or more polyo ls,
one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers, and optionally, one or more silicones.
The composition according to the invention has very good cleaning properties. It provides a homogeneous fo am that spreads easily and uniformly on keratin fibres and cleanses the keratinous substrate such as the hair and the scalp in a very gentle way. The composition has the further advantages of being applied easily and o f being rinsed off quickly.
The composition according to the invention furthermore exhibits high cosmetic properties, and especially affords a good conditioning o f keratin fibres such as the hair, including when these fibres are sensitized. Indeed, the composition o f the invention provides, for instance, excellent smoothness, so ftness and disentangling to the hair. The composition further provides a good manageability o f the keratin fibres, and a good control o f frizz and vo lume.
In addition, the composition according to the invention has an attractive and original visual appearance. It touches, feels and behaves like an oil. It is a clear and transparent composition, which is very pleasant to the consumers .
The composition has an oil-like texture during application, but cleans the hair like a shampoo
The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for washing and conditioning keratin fibres using this composition.
Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for washing and conditioning keratin fibres. Other subj ects, characteristics, aspects and advantages o f the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
In that which fo llows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to
Moreover, the expression " at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Anionic surfactants
The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants .
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups .
In the present description, a species is termed as being " anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use o f the composition o f the invention (for examp le the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture o f these surfactants may be used.
It is understood in the present description that:
- carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO") and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 ") and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO") . They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl- D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-3o aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds.
The alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Use may also be made of the C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo,
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1): ^-(Ο02Η4)— OCH2COOA ( ) wherein,
- Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
preferably, Ri is a C8-C20 and preferably Cs-Cis alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10, - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different groups Ri.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:
- Ri denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
- n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (1) in which R denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.
Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- acylglutamates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
- acyllactylates, especially of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates;
- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates and especially (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3").
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a- olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N- acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfo laurates; and also the salts o f these compounds. The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28 , better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group .
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 1 0 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6 - C24 and especially C 12 - C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfo succinates;
- C6- C24 and especially C 12 - C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
(C6 - C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C 1 2- C i 8)acylisethionates,
in particular in the form o f alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts .
The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3") .
They may be chosen from the fo llowing compounds : alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts o f these compounds.
The alkyl groups o f these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28 , better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group .
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 1 0 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: - alkyl sulphates having a C6-C24 or even a C12-C20 alkyl group,
- alkyl ether sulphates having a C6-C24 or even a C12-C20 alkyl group and preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3- propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferentially, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, especially laureth sulfosuccinates;
(C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C12- Ci8)acylisethionates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates;
- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates; - polyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereo f, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;
- C6 - C24 and especially C 12 - C20 acylglutamates;
- C6- C24 and especially C 12 - C20 acylglycinates;
in particular in the form o f alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcoho l salts .
The anionic surfactants suitable in the composition o f the present invention can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units .
The anionic surfactants used in the composition o f the present invention are preferably chosen from sulphate and sulfonate anionic surfactants.
The anionic surfactants are mo st preferably chosen from sulfosuccinates such as in particular C 12 - C20 alkylsulfosuccinates and C 12 - C20 alkyl ether sulfo succinates, and alkyl ether sulphates having a C 12 - C20 alkyl group and comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Such compounds are preferably used under the form of salts.
The amount of anionic surfactants present in the composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0. 1 to 15 % by weight, more preferentially from 0.3 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
The composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) .
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group . Mention may be made in particular o f (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2oalkyl)amido(C3-
Csalkyl)betaines or (C8-C2oalkyl)amido(C6-C8alkyl)sulfobetaines.
Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (II) and (III) below:
Ra-C(0)-N(Z)CH2(CH2)mN+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2C(0)0-, M+, X" (II) wherein,
Ra represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
X" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulphates, (Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate;
m is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
Or alternatively M+ and X" are absent;
Ra'-C(0)-N(Z)-CH2-(CH2)m'-N(B)(B') (III) wherein
B represents the group -CH2-CH2-0-X';
B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;
- X* represents the group -CH2-C(0)OH, -CH2-C(0)OZ', -CH2-CH2- C(0)OH, -CH2-CH2-C(0)OZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y* represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ', -CH2-CH(OH)-S03H or the group -CH2-CH(OH)-S03-Z' ;
Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
Ra' represents a C6-C3o alkyl or C6-C3o alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C17 alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group;
- m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
The compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid and hydro xyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine.
Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.
Use may also be made of compounds of formula (III'):
Ra'-NH-CH(Y")-(CH2)n-C(0)NH(CH2)n-N(Rd)(Re) (ΠΓ) wherein,
- Y" represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)- S03H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-S03-Z";
Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
Ra" represents a C6 - C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"- C(0)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydro lysed linseed oil; and
n and n' denote, independently o f each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
Among the compounds o f formula (III ' ) , mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and so ld by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB .
Among the abovementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, it is preferred to use (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8 -C20 alkyl)amido(C2-Cs alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C8 -C20 alkyl)betaines, and even more preferably cocoylbetaine.
The amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) advantageously ranges from 0. 1 % to 15 % by weight, more preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Non ionic surfactants :
As previously mentioned, the composition o f the present invention also comprises at least one non ionic surfactant chosen from polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids .
The fatty acids typically have a number o f carbon atoms ranging from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 22. Among these fatty acids, coco fatty acids are particularly preferred. Coco fatty acids are made of a mixture of fatty acids containing from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms . The number of ethylene oxide units is preferably higher than 3, for example from 4 to 50, more preferably from 5 to 30, and even more preferably from 6 to 25.
Preferably, the non ionic surfactants are chosen from polyethoxylated glyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyethoxylated sorbitan esters of fatty acids, and mixture thereof.
Thus, preferred non ionic surfactants are chosen from ethoxylated esters of C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide.
Further preferred non ionic surfactants are chosen from ethoxylated esters of C8-C30 fatty acid and glycerol, preferably containing from 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably 5 to 30, and more preferably from 6 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide.
Such surfactants are preferably chosen from those having a HLB higher than 8, and preferably a HLB ranging from 9 to 15. The term "HLB" means the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance at 25°C as defined by Griffin.
The HLB value according to G iffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pp.249-256.
As examples of preferred non ionic surfactants mention may be made of polyethylene glyco 1-7 ( PEG-7 ) glyceryl cocoate (HLB = 10 ) and polyethylene glycol-6 caprylic capric triglyceride (HLB = 13.2). Polyethylene glycol-7 glyceryl cocoate is particularly preferred.
The non ionic surfactant chosen from polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids is preferably present in an amount ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, better still from 2 to 20% by weight, even better from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the non ionic surfactant chosen from polyethoxylated glyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyethoxylated sorbitan esters of fatty acids, and mixture thereof, is preferably present in an amount ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, better still from 2 to 20% by weight, even better from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition o f the invention can also contain additional non ionic surfactants, different from the polyethoxylated esters o f fatty acids.
Such contain additional non ionic surfactants can be chosen from alcoho ls, a-dio ls and (C l -20)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number o f glycero l groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; these compounds may contain at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
Mention may also be made o f condensates of ethylene oxide and o f propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units , polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 , and in particular from 1 .5 to 4 , glycerol groups; N-(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C l O- 14 alkyl)amine oxides or N- (C 10- 14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides .
Mention may also be made o f non ionic surfactants o f alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the fo llowing general formula:
Ri O-(R20)t-(G)v
in which:
- Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 1 0 and preferably 0 to 4,
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4. Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which: - Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to
0,
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1- 6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. Cs-Ci6 alkyl(poly)glycosides 1,4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or else the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.
Preferably, use is made of C8-Ci6-alkyl(poly)glycosides 1,4, especially as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
Preferentially, the additional nonionic surfactants are chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides; polyethoxylated C8-C30 fatty alcohols preferably containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, more preferably from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide; and mixtures thereof.
When present, said additional surfactant is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8%) by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5%> by weight, most preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Polyols:
The polyols used in the composition of the invention are preferably liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1 atm.).
Preferably, the polyols used have the corresponding formula
(IV):
Figure imgf000017_0001
(IV)
in which R'i, R'2, R'3 and R denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C6 alkyl radical or a Ci-C6 mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical,
A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms,
m denotes 0 or 1.
A first group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of formula (IV) for which m = 0, such as propylene glycol, glycerol, 1 ,2,3-propanetriol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3- butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol and sorbitol.
A second group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of formula (IV) for which m = 1 and R'i, R'2, R'3 and R denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6 alkyl radical. Among these polyols, polyethylene glycols, for instance the product known as PEG-8 or PEG-400 in the CTFA publication (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 7th edition), are particularly preferred.
A third group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of formula (IV) for which m = 1 and R'i, R'2, R'3 and R denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6 alkyl radical, and whose molecular weight is less than 200. Among these polyols, 3- methyl-l,3,5-pentanetriol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, 2- methyl- 1 ,3 -propanediol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 3 -methyl- 1 ,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl- 1 ,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3- methyl- 1 ,3-butanediol) and hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4- pentanediol) are preferably used, and even more preferably hexylene glycol, neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-l,5-pentanediol.
Preferably, the polyols are chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) above for which m = 0, more preferably from propylene glycol, glycerol, 1 ,2,3-propanetriol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3- butanediol), 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol and sorbitol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably from propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains a mixture of at least two polyols a disclosed above, and most preferably a mixture of at least two polyols chosen from propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.
The polyol(s) may be present in the composition in a total amount preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic and/or amphoteric polymers
The composition of the invention further comprises one or more polymers chosen from cationic and amphoteric polymers, and also mixtures thereof.
The term "cationic polymer" means in the present invention any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, that do not comprise anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups
Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto .
The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average mo lar mass (Mw) o f between 500 and 5 106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3 106 approximately.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
( 1 ) homopolymers or copo lymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one o f the units o f the fo llowing formulae :
Figure imgf000019_0001
in which:
- R3 , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group;
- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with Ci-C4 alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2077 143 and 2393 573,
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;
quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
- preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyl tri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide/ methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil may be used more particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. A crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
(2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in FR 1 492597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer "JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group .
Cationic cellulo se copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-so luble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in US patent 4 13 1 576, and mention may be made o f hydroxyalkyl cellulo ses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl- ammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products so ld under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 03 1 307 , and mention may be made o f guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for examp le, of guar gums modified with a 2,3 - epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for examp le, a chloride) . Such products are especially so ld under the names Jaguar C 1 3 S , Jaguar C 1 5 , Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C I 62 by the company Rhodia.
(3) Polymers composed o f piperazinyl units and o f divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.
(4) Water-so luble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation o f an acidic compound with a po lyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-halo acyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an o ligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-halo acyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mo l per amine group o f the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.
(5) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation o f polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids fo llowed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly o f the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers so ld under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mo le ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8 : 1 and 1 .4 : 1 ; the resulting polyamino amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mo le ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide preferably of between 0.5 : 1 and 1 .8 : 1 . Polymers o f this type are so ld in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case o f the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(7) Cyclopolymers o f alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (PI) or (PII) :
Figure imgf000023_0001
in which
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
- Ri2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;
- Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
- Y" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight-average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, sold especially under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:
13 I 15
Figure imgf000024_0001
in which:
- R , Ri4, Ri5 and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C4 hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or alternatively Rn, Ri4, Ri5 and Ri6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R , Ri4, Ri5 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O- R17-D or -CO-NH-Ri7_D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that Als R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring.
In addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, Bi can also denote a group (CH2)„-CO-D-OC-(CH2)„- in which D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-0)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2- CH(CH3)-0]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or alternatively the divalent group -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;
d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X" is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are composed of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
Figure imgf000026_0001
in which Rls R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
A compound of formula (PIV) that is particularly preferred is the one for which Rls R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl group and n = 3, p = 6 and X = CI, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
(9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (PV):
R 20
— N+ - (CH2)r- NH - CO - (CH2)q - CO - NH (CH2)S
R19 (PV) R 21 in which:
- Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R2i, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β- hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH group, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ri8, R19, R2o and R2i do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X" denotes an anion such as a halide,
- A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-0- CH2-CH2-.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Mirano l.
( 10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrro lidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products so ld under the names Luviquat® FC 905 , FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF .
( 1 1 ) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glyco l ( 15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
( 12) Polymers comprising in their structure :
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
— CH2— CH—
NH2 (A)
(b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below :
— CH-— CH—
(B)
NH— C-H
I I
O
In other words, these polymers may be chosen especially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mo l% to 100 mo l% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mo l% o f units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mo l% to 100 mo l% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mo l% o f units corresponding to formula (B) .
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydro lysis o f po lyvinylformamide. This hydro lysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average mo lecular mass of the said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mo l, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mo l.
The cationic charge density o f these polymers may range from 2 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
The polymers comprising units o f formula (A) and optionally units o f formula (B) are so ld especially under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products so ld under the names Lupamin 9095 , Lupamin 5095 , Lupamin 1 095 , Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydro lysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates o f polyamines and o f epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from the polymers of families ( 1 ), (2), (7) and ( 10) mentioned above.
Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulo ses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulo se ether derivatives such as the products so ld under the name JR 400 by the company Amercho l, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, so ld under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, and homo logues thereo f o f low weight-average mo lecular weights, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrro lidone and o f vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers o f methacryloyloxy(C i -C4)alkyltri(C i - C4)alkylammonium salts; and mixtures thereof.
It is also possible to use amphoteric polymers.
The amphoteric (or zwitterionic) polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C may denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers;
B and C may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one o f the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively B and C form part of a chain o f a po lymer comprising and α, β -dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one o f the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups .
The amphoteric polymers can in particular be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (la) below :
Figure imgf000029_0001
in which Ri denotes H or CH3 and R2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH2OH group .
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (la) .
The unit derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamide type o f formula (la) in which Ri denotes H and R2 is an amino group (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units o f structure (Ila) below :
Figure imgf000030_0001
in which:
- R3 denotes H or CH3 ,
- R4 denotes a group (CH2)k with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;
- R5 , R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- Y" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (Ila) .
Among these units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type o f formula (Ila), the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl group, k is equal to 3 , R5 , R6 and R7 denote a methyl group, and Y" denotes a chloride anion.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (Ilia) :
Figure imgf000030_0002
in which R8 denotes H or CH3 and R9 denotes a hydroxyl group or a -NH-C(CH3)2-CH2-S03H group . The preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which P8 denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl group.
The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non- neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (Ilia).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
The content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
- from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),
- from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and
- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and o f (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the said amphoteric polymers consist so lely o f units derived from monomers o f (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyl- trialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) .
As particularly preferred examp les o f such amphoteric polymers, mention may be made o f acrylamide/methylacrylamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are especially so ld under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco .
Another preferred type o f amphoteric polymers is the polymers comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more non ionic units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylate type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type.
The monomers o f (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and the acidic monomers of (meth)acrylic acid type (monomers (ii) and
(iii) respectively) are as described above.
The non ionic monomers (i) of (meth)acrylate type are preferably chosen from C 1 - C 4 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates. A preferred monomer is methyl acrylate.
As particularly preferred examp les o f such amphoteric polymers, mention may be made o f acrylic acid /methylacrylamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylate terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the name Polyquaternium 47. Corresponding products are especially so ld under the names Merquat 2001 and Merquat 200 1N by the company Nalco . As another type o f preferred amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made o f copolymers based on (meth) acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers o f (meth) acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride .
Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic
Ingredient Dictionary, under the name Polyquaternium 22. An example of corresponding product is so ld under the name Merquat 280 by the company Nalco .
Among the cationic and amphoteric polymers described above, those having a cationic charge density ranging from 0.2 to 5 meq/g are preferred.
Among these polymers, the amphoteric polymers are particularly preferred. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more amphoteric polymer(s) .
Most preferred are Polyquaternium 22, Polyquaternium 47 ,
Polyquaternium 53 , and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition o f the invention contains at least two different polymers chosen from cationic and amphoteric polymers, such as two different polymers, preferably two different amphoteric polymers; or three different polymers, preferably three different amphoteric polymers .
The total amount of cationic and amphoteric polymer(s) advantageously ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0. 1 to 5 % by weight, and most preferably from 0.4 to 3 % by weight, with regard to the total weight of the composition.
Silicones
The composition according to the present invention may further contain one or more silicones. Such silicones can be chosen in particular from non-amino silicones, amino silicones and mixtures thereo f.
In the present invention, the term "silicone" is intended to denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable mo lecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The hydrocarbon-based radicals that are the most common are alkyl radicals, especially Ci-Cio alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is Ci-Cio, and aryl radicals and in particular phenyl.
According to the present invention, the term "non-amino silicone" denotes any silicone not containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine, or a quaternary ammonium group.
The non-amino silicones, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
The silicones may be volatile or non- volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold especially under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by the company Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by the company Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7158 by the company Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 by the company Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure: ι— D" - D' D" - D'
CH3 CH3 with D" : Si - 0 - with D' Si -0
I
CH, C8H17
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethyl-cyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)- pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclo- tetrasiloxane and oxy- 1 , 1 '-bis(2,2,2' ,2 ',3,3 '-hexatrimethyl- silyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10"6 m2/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol.91, Jan.76, pp.27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .
When the silicones are non- volatile, use is preferably made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5xl0"6 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C and preferably lxlO"5 to 1 m2/s. The viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: - the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil oils sold by the company Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000,
- the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia, - the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 cSt,
- the Viscasil oils from the company General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
Mention could be made of dimethiconol emulsions, for example with anionic surfactants, preferably having a low particle size such as less than 500nm, preferably less than 200 nm.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing α,ω-silanol groups.
In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C2o)alkylsiloxanes.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from lxlO"5 to 5xl0"2m2/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- Silbione oils of the 70641 series from the company Rhodia,
- the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from the company Rhodia,
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from the company Dow Corning,
- silicones of the PK series from the company Bayer, such as the product PK20, - the silicones o f the PN and PH series from the company Bayer, such as the products PN 1000 and PH 1 000,
- certain oils o f the SF series from the company General Electric, such as SF 1023 , SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average mo lecular masses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from vo latile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made more particularly o f the fo llowing products :
- polydimethylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane gums,
polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums .
Products that may be used more particularly are the fo llowing mixtures :
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end o f the chain (known as dimethiconol according to the nomenclature o f the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (known as cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature o f the CTFA dictionary), such as the product Q2 140 1 so ld by the company Dow Corning,
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average mo lecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, - mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m2/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5 x 10"6 m2/s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
The organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R2S1O2/2, R3S1O1/2, RS1O3/2 and S1O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
The organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the company Union Carbide, and the (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q25200, or in particular the silicone of INCI name PEG-12 dimethicone such as the product XIAMETER OFX-0193 FLUID sold by Dow Corning. - thio l groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 7 1 from the company Genesee,
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428 , 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt,
- hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application FR 2 589 476,
- acyloxyalkyl groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732,
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, for instance in the products described in patent EP 1 86 507 from the company Chisso Corporation, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701 E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thio sulphate such as the products so ld by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S20 1 and Abil S255.
According to the invention, silicones comprising a polysiloxane portion and a non-silicone organic chain portion, one o f the two portions constituting the main chain o f the polymer and the other being grafted onto the said main chain, can also be used. These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A- 412,704, ep-a-412 ,707, ep-a-640, 105 and WO95/00578 , ep-a-582, 152 and WO93/23009 and U. S . Pat. Nos. 4,693 ,935 , 4,728 ,571 and 4,972,037, the disclo sures o f which are specifically incorporated by reference herein. These polymers are preferably anionic or non-ionic.
Such polymers are, for example, copolymers, which may be obtained by radical po lymerization from a monomer mixture comprising :
a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate;
b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid; 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula:
wherein,
V is a number ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers . Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the polyalkyl(methyl)acrylate type and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) on which are grafted, via a connecting chain of thiopropylene type, polymer units of the polyisobutyl(meth)acrylate type.
Preferably, the non amino silicones are chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes and polyorganosiloxanes comprising polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, and more preferentially from polydimethylsiloxanes, ethoxylated polydimethylsiloxanes and mixtures thereof.
The non-amino silicones, which can be used in the present invention preferably have a viscosity equals to 60000 est at 25°C and shear rate 1 s"1.
The viscosity may be measured at 25°C with viscosimeters or rheometers preferably with cone-plan geometry.
The silicones used in the composition of the invention may also be chosen from amino silicones.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "amino silicone" means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
The amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
(a) the compounds corresponding to formula (XVIII) below:
(R1)a(T)3_aSi[OSi(T)2]n[OSi(T)b(R1)2_b]mOSi(T)3_a(R1)a (XVIII) wherein,
- T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or Ci-Cs alkyl group, and preferably methyl, or a Ci-Cs alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
- a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0,
- b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 1 50 , it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and
- Ri is a monovalent group of formula -CqH2 qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups :
-N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N(R2)2 ;
-N(R2)2,
-N+(R2)3 Q ,
-N+(R2) (H)2 Q ,
-N+(R2)2HQ-,
-N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N+(R2)(H)2 Q ,
wherein, R2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C i -C2o alkyl group, and Q" represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition o f formula (XVIII) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (XIX) below :
Figure imgf000041_0001
NhL
(XIX) wherein, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH3; a C1-C4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C3-Cs and preferably C3-C6 alkylene group; m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
According to a first possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000 approximately. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones".
According to a second possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" is an alkoxy group and A represents a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by the company Wacker.
According to a third possibility, R and R", which are different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" being an alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group and A representing a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal to 1/0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid WR® 1300 sold by the company Wacker. Note that the mo lecular mass o f these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard; μ styragem co lumns; eluent THF ; flow rate 1 mm/minute; 200 μΐ o f a so lution containing 0.5 % by weight of silicone in THF are inj ected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry) .
A product corresponding to the definition o f formula (XIX) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as Trimethylsilyl Amodimethicone, corresponding to formula (XX) below :
(CH3)3 SiO
Figure imgf000043_0001
NH.
(XX) wherein, n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (XVIII) .
Such compounds are described, for example, in patent EP 95238. A compound o f formula (XX) is so ld, for examp le, under the name Q2-8220 by the company O SI .
(b) the compounds corresponding to formula (XXI) below:
Figure imgf000044_0001
wherein,
- R3 represents a Ci-Cis monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-Cis alkenyl group, for example methyl,
- R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci- Ci8 alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group,
- Q" is a halide ion, in particular chloride;
- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8, and
- s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
Such compounds are described more particularly in patent US- 4 185 087.
A compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
(c) quaternary ammonium silicones especially of formula
(XXII):
Figure imgf000044_0002
wherein,
R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci- Ci8 alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,
R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a group -R6-NHCOR7;
X" is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.); and
r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A-0530974.
d) the amino silicones of formula (XXIII) below:
Figure imgf000045_0001
(CmH2m)
NH.
(XXIII) wherein,
- Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a Ci- C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
- R5 denotes a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g. When these compounds are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
By way of example, use may be made of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC939 by the company Dow Corning, a cationic surfactant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride and a nonionic surfactant of formula C13H27-(OC2H4)12-OH, known under the
CTFA name Trideceth-12.
Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (XX) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula C8Hi7-C6H4-(OCH2CH2)40-OH, known under the CTFA name Octoxynol-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula Ci2H25-(OCH2-CH2)6-OH, known under the CTFA name Isolaureth-6, and propylene glycol.
The silicones of the invention may also be silicones grafted with anionic groups, such as the compounds VS 80 or VS 70 sold by the company 3M.
Preferentially, the amino silicones used in the present invention are the products sold under the names DC 8194, DC 8299, DC 1689, DC 5-7113, DC 8500, DC 8566, DC8170 and DC 8401 by the company Dow Corning.
According to the invention, the silicones can be used in the form of emulsions, typically having particle size ranging from 50 nm to 10 μιη, more preferably from 100 nm to 1 μιη, and even more preferably from 200 to 500 nm.
Indeed, silicon deposition remains high, irrespective to the molecular weight, when the particle size is preferably ranging from 100 nm to 10 μπι.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains one or more non-amino silicones as described above. In a more preferred embodiment, the composition contains one or more non-amino silicones comprising polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, still better polyethyleneoxy groups.
In another more preferred embodiment, the composition contains one or more polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilano l end groups (also known as dimethicono l), preferably in emulsion form, more preferably having a low particle size such as less than 500 nm, preferably from 50 nm to 500 nm.
The amount of silicone(s) advantageously ranges from 0. 1 to 15 % by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.7 to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty alcoho ls
The composition, according to the present invention, may further contain one or more fatty alcoho ls, containing at least 8 carbon atoms.
Indeed, the particular combination of surfactants and polyols o f the composition makes it possible to solubilise fatty alcoho ls in said composition while keeping an optically clear appearance thereof.
For the purposes o f the present invention, the term "fatty alcoho l" means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcoho l comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and which is not oxyalkylenated.
Preferably, the fatty alcoho ls are so lid at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure ( 1 .013 * 105 Pa) .
The fatty alcoho ls are preferably chosen from the compounds of general formula (I)
R-OH (I) wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 1 8 carbon atoms. R preferably denotes a linear or branched C8-C30, more preferentially C12-C18 alkyl or a linear or branched C8-C30, more preferentially C12-C18 alkenyl group, and better still linear. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
Examples of fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
Fatty alcohol mixtures that may be mentioned include cetylstearyl (or cetearyl) alcohol.
Among all the fatty alcohols that may be used according to the invention, use is preferably made of one or more fatty alcohols chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.
The amount of fatty alcohols, in the composition of the present invention, advantageously ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cosmetically acceptable medium
The composition according to the present invention, advantageously comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.
The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with human keratin fibres, such as the hair.
The cosmetically acceptable medium can be formed from water or from a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; and polyol ethers, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention, advantageously comprises water in an amount preferably ranging from 30 to 98% by weight, more preferentially from 40 to 95 % by weigh, and better still from 50to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds o f the invention.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made o f cationic surfactants, anionic or non ionic polymers or mixtures thereo f, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair lo ss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, so lubilizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents .
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s) .
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each o f them, o f between 0.001 % and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition o f the invention is advantageously transparent. The transparency of the composition may be characterized by measuring its turbidity according to the NTU method using a 2 1 OOP model turbidimeter from the company Hach, at room temperature. The turbidity o f the compositions o f the invention is preferably less than 200 NTU units, more preferably less than 1 00 NTU units, even more preferably less than 50 NTU, mo st preferably less than 20 NTU and better still less than 10 NTU units.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention concerns a composition containing :
- from 0.5 to 8% by weight of one or more anionic surfactants, - from 2 to 5 % by weight of one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
- from 5 to 15 % by weight o f one or more non ionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated glyceryl esters o f fatty acids, polyethoxylated sorbitan esters of fatty acids, and mixture thereof, from 15 % to 30% by weight of one or more polyols,
- from 0.4 to 3 % by weight of one or more amphoteric polymers, and
- from 0.7 to 5 % by weight o f one or more silicones, preferably chosen from non-amino silicones comprising polyethyleneoxy groups, polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilano l end groups, and mixtures thereof,
all percentages being expressed with regard to the total weight of the composition.
The present invention also relates to a method for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, such as hair, which consists in applying to the said keratin fibres a composition as described above, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.
The leave-on time o f the composition on the keratin fibres may range from a few seconds to 1 5 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes .
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres, preferably to wet keratin fibres.
Finally, the present invention relates to the use o f a composition as described above for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
In the present invention, the term "keratin fibres" denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
The examples that fo llow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. EXAMPLES
In the examples that fo llow and unless otherwise indicated, all amounts are given as mass percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition (% AM = % active matter) .
The fo llowing compositions were prepared using the ingredients indicated in the table below.
Amounts (% wt AM)
Ingredients
Composition 1 Composition 2
DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE 1 1
COCO-BETAINE 3 3
PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE 13 13
POLYSORBATE 20 1 .2 2
SORBITOL 10.5 10.5
PROPYLENE GLYCOL 10 10
CAPRYLYL GLYCOL - 1
POLYQUATERNIUM-22 0.4 0.4
POLYQUATERNIUM-53 0. 1 0. 1
POLYQUATERNIUM-47 0.2 0.2
MYRISTYL ALCOHOL 1 -
PEG- 12 DIMETHICONE 1 1
DIMETHICONOL - 2 SODIUM CHLORIDE Qs Qs
WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100
These two compositions were tested for different hair types, and exhibited very good performances. Composition 2 is more substantive on the hair and provided better dry hair performances.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising:
- one or more anionic surfactants,
- one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
- one or more non ionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids,
one or more polyols,
- one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers, and
- optionally, one or more silicones.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfo succinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, especially laureth sulfosuccinates;
(C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C12- Ci8)acylisethionates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates;
- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
3. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of anionic surfactants ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, even better from 0,5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to anyone o f the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and preferably the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from from (C8- C2o alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C 8 - C20 alkyl)amido(C2-Cs alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereo f.
5. Composition according to anyone o f the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0. 1 % to 15 % by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to anyone o f the preceding claims, wherein the non ionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids have a HLB higher than 8 , and preferably a HLB ranging from 9 to 1 5.
7. Composition according to anyone o f the preceding claims, wherein the non ionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids are chosen from polyethoxylated glyceryl esters of fatty acids, polyethoxylated sorbitan esters of fatty acids, and mixture thereo f, and preferably from:
- ethoxylated esters of C 8 - C30 fatty acid and sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 mo l of ethylene oxide,
- ethoxylated esters of C 8 - C30 fatty acid and glycerol, preferably containing from 4 to 50 mo l o f ethylene oxide, preferably 5 to 30 mo l o f ethylene oxide, and more preferably from 6 to 25 mo l o f ethylene oxide,
- and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of non ionic surfactant(s) chosen from polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids ranges from 1 to 25% by weight, better still from 2 to 20% by weight, even better from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the pol ols have the corres ondin formula (IV):
Figure imgf000055_0001
(IV)
in which R'i, R'2, R'3 and R'4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C6 alkyl radical or a Ci-C6 mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical,
A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms, and
m denotes 0 or 1.
10. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the polyols are chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) for which m = 0, more preferably from propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,2,3- propanetriol, 2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol, 1 ,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3- butanediol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably from propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the polyol(s) are present in an amount ranging from 5%> to 50%) by weight, preferably from 10%> to 40%> by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic and amphoteric polymers are chosen from those having a cationic charge density ranging from 0.2 to 5 meq/g.
13. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein it comprises one or more amphoteric polymer(s), preferably chosen from Polyquaternium 22, Polyquaternium 47, Polyquaternium 53, and mixtures thereof.
14. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of cationic and amphoteric polymer(s) ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, with regard to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, further containing one or more fatty alcohols chosen from the compounds of formula (I):
R-OH (I)
wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
16. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the amount of fatty alcohols ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, further containing one or more silicone(s), preferably one or more non-amino silicone(s), in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.7 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. Composition according to the preceding claim, containing one or more non-amino silicones comprising polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, preferably polyethyleneoxy groups.
19. Composition according to claim 1 7, containing one or more polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilano l end groups (also known as dimethicono l), preferably in emulsion form having a particle size o f less than 500 nm.
20. Composition according to anyone o f the preceding claims, further containing one or more additional non ionic surfactants different from said polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids, preferably chosen from (C6 - C 24 alkyl)po lyglyco sides; polyethoxylated C 8 - C 30 fatty alcoho ls containing from 2 to 150 mo l o f ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 40 mo l of ethylene oxide; and mixtures thereo f.
21 . Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said additional non ionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0. 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5 % by weight, most preferably from 1 to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. Method for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in applying to the said keratin fibres a composition as defined in anyone of the preceding claims, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.
PCT/EP2017/059033 2016-04-20 2017-04-13 Cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination of surfactants, a polyol, a cationic or amphoteric polymer and optionally a silicone. WO2017182401A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IN201611013734 2016-04-20
IN201611013734 2016-04-20

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2017182401A1 true WO2017182401A1 (en) 2017-10-26

Family

ID=58699086

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2017/059033 WO2017182401A1 (en) 2016-04-20 2017-04-13 Cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination of surfactants, a polyol, a cationic or amphoteric polymer and optionally a silicone.

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2017182401A1 (en)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2020002248A1 (en) * 2018-06-25 2020-01-02 L'oreal Composition comprising a monoester of a fatty acid and of polyglycerol, an oil, a polyol, and a cationic agent
FR3104961A1 (en) * 2019-12-20 2021-06-25 L'oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF AT LEAST ONE POLYOL CONTAINING AT LEAST THREE HYDROXY FUNCTIONS AND AT LEAST ONE SORBITAN POLYOXYETHYLENE ESTER

Citations (20)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1492597A (en) 1965-09-14 1967-08-18 Union Carbide Corp New cellulose ethers containing quaternary nitrogen
US3589578A (en) 1968-01-20 1971-06-29 Monforts Fa A Tension-relieving device for stretchable sheet material
FR2077143A5 (en) 1970-01-30 1971-10-15 Gaf Corp
US4031307A (en) 1976-05-03 1977-06-21 Celanese Corporation Cationic polygalactomannan compositions
US4131576A (en) 1977-12-15 1978-12-26 National Starch And Chemical Corporation Process for the preparation of graft copolymers of a water soluble monomer and polysaccharide employing a two-phase reaction system
FR2393573A1 (en) 1977-06-10 1979-01-05 Gaf Corp HAIR PREPARATIONS CONTAINING A VINYLPYRROLIDONE COPOLYMER
US4185087A (en) 1977-12-28 1980-01-22 Union Carbide Corporation Hair conditioning compositions containing dialkylamino hydroxy organosilicon compounds and their derivatives
EP0095238A2 (en) 1982-05-20 1983-11-30 Dow Corning Corporation Compositions used to condition hair
EP0186507A2 (en) 1984-12-22 1986-07-02 Chisso Corporation Carboxyl group-containing siloxane compounds
FR2589476A1 (en) 1985-10-30 1987-05-07 Rhone Poulenc Spec Chim SILICONE ADDITIVE FOR VINYL POLYHLORIDE
US4693935A (en) 1986-05-19 1987-09-15 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polysiloxane-grafted copolymer pressure sensitive adhesive composition and sheet materials coated therewith
US4728571A (en) 1985-07-19 1988-03-01 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polysiloxane-grafted copolymer release coating sheets and adhesive tapes
US4957732A (en) 1988-12-29 1990-09-18 L'oreal Shaving composition for the skin based on polyorgano-siloxanes containing an acyloxyalkyl group and process for use
US4972037A (en) 1989-08-07 1990-11-20 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polysiloxane-grafted copolymer topical binder composition with novel fluorochemical comonomer and method of coating therewith
EP0412704A2 (en) 1989-08-07 1991-02-13 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair conditioning and styling compositions
EP0530974A1 (en) 1991-08-05 1993-03-10 Unilever Plc Hair care composition
WO1993023009A1 (en) 1992-05-12 1993-11-25 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polymers in cosmetics and personal care products
WO1995000578A1 (en) 1993-06-24 1995-01-05 The Procter & Gamble Company Siloxane modified polyolefin copolymers
US20140161755A1 (en) * 2012-12-10 2014-06-12 L'oreal Clear cleansing composition
EP2873414A1 (en) * 2013-11-19 2015-05-20 DSM IP Assets B.V. Use of an edelweiss extract in hair care for the prevention of hair graying

Patent Citations (20)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1492597A (en) 1965-09-14 1967-08-18 Union Carbide Corp New cellulose ethers containing quaternary nitrogen
US3589578A (en) 1968-01-20 1971-06-29 Monforts Fa A Tension-relieving device for stretchable sheet material
FR2077143A5 (en) 1970-01-30 1971-10-15 Gaf Corp
US4031307A (en) 1976-05-03 1977-06-21 Celanese Corporation Cationic polygalactomannan compositions
FR2393573A1 (en) 1977-06-10 1979-01-05 Gaf Corp HAIR PREPARATIONS CONTAINING A VINYLPYRROLIDONE COPOLYMER
US4131576A (en) 1977-12-15 1978-12-26 National Starch And Chemical Corporation Process for the preparation of graft copolymers of a water soluble monomer and polysaccharide employing a two-phase reaction system
US4185087A (en) 1977-12-28 1980-01-22 Union Carbide Corporation Hair conditioning compositions containing dialkylamino hydroxy organosilicon compounds and their derivatives
EP0095238A2 (en) 1982-05-20 1983-11-30 Dow Corning Corporation Compositions used to condition hair
EP0186507A2 (en) 1984-12-22 1986-07-02 Chisso Corporation Carboxyl group-containing siloxane compounds
US4728571A (en) 1985-07-19 1988-03-01 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polysiloxane-grafted copolymer release coating sheets and adhesive tapes
FR2589476A1 (en) 1985-10-30 1987-05-07 Rhone Poulenc Spec Chim SILICONE ADDITIVE FOR VINYL POLYHLORIDE
US4693935A (en) 1986-05-19 1987-09-15 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polysiloxane-grafted copolymer pressure sensitive adhesive composition and sheet materials coated therewith
US4957732A (en) 1988-12-29 1990-09-18 L'oreal Shaving composition for the skin based on polyorgano-siloxanes containing an acyloxyalkyl group and process for use
US4972037A (en) 1989-08-07 1990-11-20 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polysiloxane-grafted copolymer topical binder composition with novel fluorochemical comonomer and method of coating therewith
EP0412704A2 (en) 1989-08-07 1991-02-13 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair conditioning and styling compositions
EP0530974A1 (en) 1991-08-05 1993-03-10 Unilever Plc Hair care composition
WO1993023009A1 (en) 1992-05-12 1993-11-25 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polymers in cosmetics and personal care products
WO1995000578A1 (en) 1993-06-24 1995-01-05 The Procter & Gamble Company Siloxane modified polyolefin copolymers
US20140161755A1 (en) * 2012-12-10 2014-06-12 L'oreal Clear cleansing composition
EP2873414A1 (en) * 2013-11-19 2015-05-20 DSM IP Assets B.V. Use of an edelweiss extract in hair care for the prevention of hair graying

Non-Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
"CTFA dictionary, 5th ed.", 1993, .
CTFA: "CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th ed.", 2004
CTFA: "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 7th ed.", .
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; April 2013 (2013-04-01), "Restoring shampoo", XP002771327, Database accession no. 2037424 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; June 2011 (2011-06-01), "Shampoo", XP002771328, Database accession no. 1553340 *
J. SOC. COSM. CHEM., vol. 5, 1954, pages 249 - 256
TODD; BYERS: "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", COSMETICS AND TOILETRIES, vol. 91, January 1976 (1976-01-01), pages 27 - 32
WALTER: "Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones", 1968, ACADEMIC PRESS

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2020002248A1 (en) * 2018-06-25 2020-01-02 L'oreal Composition comprising a monoester of a fatty acid and of polyglycerol, an oil, a polyol, and a cationic agent
FR3104961A1 (en) * 2019-12-20 2021-06-25 L'oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF AT LEAST ONE POLYOL CONTAINING AT LEAST THREE HYDROXY FUNCTIONS AND AT LEAST ONE SORBITAN POLYOXYETHYLENE ESTER

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US11077047B2 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of surfactants of carboxylate, acylisethionate and alkyl(poly)glycoside type
US10561592B2 (en) Cosmetic composition containing linear olefin sulfonates, non-oxyalkylated anionic surfactants, and non-ionic and/or amphoteric surfactants, and cosmetic treatment method
WO2017108824A1 (en) Hair cosmetic composition comprising silicones and surfactants, and cosmetic treatment process
AU7239700A (en) Detergent cosmetic compositions containing a specific amphoteric starch, and uses thereof
MX2007004904A (en) Composition for washing keratinous material and cosmetic treatment method using said composition.
BR112017011952B1 (en) cosmetic composition, cosmetic treatment process and cosmetic waste cleaning process
US20200261339A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising an anionic surfactant, a solid fatty alcohol and a solid fatty ester, and cosmetic treatment process
WO2019193109A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising a polysaccharide, surfactants and fragments of one or more plants
WO2014101045A1 (en) Composition for caring for keratin fibers and use thereof for cleansing and conditioning the keratin fibers
WO2017182401A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination of surfactants, a polyol, a cationic or amphoteric polymer and optionally a silicone.
EP3458018A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfac-tants, cationic polymers and liquid fatty substances chosen from fatty alco-hols and fatty esters, and cosmetic treatment process
EP3003256B1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising nonionic associative polymers and carboxylate anionic surfactants, and cosmetic treatment process
US11246824B2 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination of surfactants, a silicone, a cationic polymer, a fatty alcohol and a clay
US11071703B2 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of anionic surfactants of carboxylate and acylisethionate type
WO2019002150A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of particular carboxylic surfactants, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants, and cationic polymers, cosmetic treatment process and use
WO2012149617A1 (en) Detergent cosmetic compositions comprising four surfactants, a cationic polymer and a silicone, and use thereof
EP4076365A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic associative polymer, a carboxylic anionic surfactant, optionally a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant
WO2020002523A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising surfactants, a polymer comprising at least one (meth)acrylic unit and a silicone
EP3389613A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising an anionic surfactant, at least 3.5% by weight of a fatty acid and an antidandruff agent
EP3277252A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes, oxyethylenated polymers and fatty alcohols
WO2016102505A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising at least one non-ionic and at least one anionic surfactant, at least one cationic and at least one amphoteric polymer and at least one silicone
WO2018108958A1 (en) Process for treating keratin fibres using a homopolymer of acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and an amino silicone
WO2013092608A2 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose, a sulfated or sulfonated anionic surfactant and a branched fatty alcohol
WO2013092722A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose and an anionic surfactant comprising one or more carboxylate group(s)
FR3077491A1 (en) COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO ANIONIC SURFACTANTS, AN AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT AND A LIQUID FATTY BODY

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 17722694

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 17722694

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1