WO2016062467A1 - Modification temporaire de la couleur des cheveux au moyen de pigments, d'alcools et de polymères zwitterioniques ou cationiques - Google Patents

Modification temporaire de la couleur des cheveux au moyen de pigments, d'alcools et de polymères zwitterioniques ou cationiques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016062467A1
WO2016062467A1 PCT/EP2015/071434 EP2015071434W WO2016062467A1 WO 2016062467 A1 WO2016062467 A1 WO 2016062467A1 EP 2015071434 W EP2015071434 W EP 2015071434W WO 2016062467 A1 WO2016062467 A1 WO 2016062467A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
composition according
hair
pigments
mica
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PCT/EP2015/071434
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Konstantin Goutsis
Gabriele Weser
Original Assignee
Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Priority claimed from DE102014221532.3A external-priority patent/DE102014221532A1/de
Priority claimed from DE102014221652.4A external-priority patent/DE102014221652A1/de
Application filed by Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa filed Critical Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Publication of WO2016062467A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016062467A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

  • the present application relates to agents for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which are based on an aqueous-alcoholic carrier and which contain color pigments and special cationic and / or zwitterionic polymers. Characteristic of these agents is their low content of fatty substances.
  • Another object of this application is a method for color change and styling of the hair, wherein a corresponding agent is sprayed on the hair and the hair are laid at the same time to the hairstyle.
  • oxidation colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components which form the actual dyes with one another under the influence of oxidizing agents, for example hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long lasting staining results.
  • Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, coloring substances. These are undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation before; These particles are only attached to the hair fiber from the outside. There they remain until the next hair wash and can be removed without residue by shampooing. Under the name hair mascara, various products of this type are available on the market.
  • the hair mascaras Since the removal of the hair mascaras is possible by shampooing, they are usually designed as "leave-on" products, and it is of particular advantage for the user of a “leave-on".
  • Product if he can make at the same time with the temporary color change also a slight temporary shaping of the hair.
  • a temporary shapes for example, designs such as curl, smoothing, Toup réelle or consolidation in question.
  • Temporary shapes can be achieved, for example, by styling agents such as hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair fixatives, hair waving, styling sprays, etc.
  • the temporary shaping is also referred to as hair styling or styling, shaping agents are also referred to as styling agents.
  • WO 99/20230 A2 describes hair mascara products which contain pigments together with non-ionic polymers and high-melting waxes.
  • WO 2014/146818 A1 also discloses styling agents with pigments which are distinguished by the presence of solid fatty alcohols and waxes.
  • the fat and wax components contained in these products are usually used to set a certain drying time, through which the consumer experiences the feel of dry hair, but the mascara applied to the hair retains a residual moisture, through which the hairstyle remains malleable and combable.
  • the object of the present invention was to provide a versatile hair mascara product, which allows the temporary color change of hair.
  • the hair mascara should be ready to be applied by means of a sponge, a brush and also by means of a spray application.
  • the color change should be done easily and without damage and be removed by a wash again without residue of the hair.
  • the product on the hair should be highly resistant to external influences, i. neither by abrasion on textiles nor by combing should a color loss or other detachment of the product become visible.
  • the color-changed hair should have a soft touch, not be weighted, not feel hard or greasy, and visually not leave the impression of greasy hair.
  • a first object of the present invention is a means for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, contained in an aqueous cosmetic carrier
  • the total amount of the fatty substances contained in the average (d) - based on the total weight of the composition - is below 2.5 wt .-%.
  • Keratinic fibers, keratin-containing fibers or keratin fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for lightening and dyeing keratin fibers, in principle, there is nothing to prevent their use in other fields as well.
  • temporary color change is understood to mean a temporary coloring of the hair which can be completely or almost completely removed by shampooing (with a commercial shampoo)
  • temporary color change does not include whitening, bleaching or bleaching of the keratin fibers by the use of an oxidizing agent, and the effect caused by the oxidative color change and the bleaching effect can not be reversed by shampooing so these color changes are not temporary.
  • the agents contain the essential ingredients of the invention in each case in an aqueous cosmetic carrier.
  • aqueous cosmetic carrier may be, for example, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions such as, for example, shampoos, sprayable solutions, foam aerosols or foam formulations.
  • the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one aliphatic and / or aromatic alcohol having 2 to 8 C atoms.
  • Aliphatic and / or aromatic alcohols having 2 to 8 C atoms are compounds which have 2 to 8 C atoms, are aliphatic and / or aromatic in nature and carry one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • the alcohols (a) for the purposes of the present invention do not carry any heteroatoms other than oxygen. They may include an ether moiety but, moreover, have no functional groups other than the hydroxy group (ie, monoethanolamine, alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids, dihydroxyacetone, etc. are not alcohols in the sense of the present invention).
  • Suitable aliphatic alcohols are, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, butanol, n-pentanol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol and glycerin.
  • Suitable aromatic alcohols are, for example, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and phenylethyl alcohol.
  • an agent according to the invention for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers is characterized in that it comprises one or more alcohols (a) from the group ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, butanol, n-pentanol, 1,2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and phenylethyl alcohol.
  • alcohols a) from the group ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, butanol, n-pentanol, 1,2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexan
  • the alcohols (a) according to the invention are organic solvents which are used to dissolve the cationic bwz according to the invention.
  • zwitterionic polymer (c) contribute and after application of the agent on the keratinic fiber, the speed of film formation of the polymers (c) influence. It has been found that this film formation then proceeds particularly well and is particularly uniform when the alcohol or alcohols are contained in a minimum amount of at least 10.0 wt .-% in the middle. The best results were observed with an alcohol amount of at least 40% by weight. All quantities in% by weight are based on the total amount of all alcohols (a) according to the invention, which is related to the total weight of the composition.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, one or more alcohols (a) in a total amount of at least 10.0% by weight, preferably of at least 20.0% by weight, more preferably of at least 30.0% by weight, even more preferably of at least 40.0% by weight and most preferably of at least 50.0% by weight.
  • the alcohols from group (a) are compounds which have different boiling points and different degrees of volatility. It has been found that ethanol has the best suitability within this group. If the agents contain significant amounts of ethanol, the pigments deposited on the keratin fiber are enclosed by a polymer film of the polymers (c), which is designed such that the pigments adhere particularly well to the keratin fiber. In this case, the color result is particularly uniform and the abrasion of the pigments caused by friction with textiles is minimized.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, at least 15.0% by weight, preferably at least 25.0% by weight, more preferably at least 35.0% by weight. % and most preferably at least 45.0 wt .-% ethanol.
  • the properties described above can be improved even further by adding to the ethanol another polyhydric alcohol of lower volatility, for example 1, 2-propanediol or glycerol.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that, based on its total weight, 1,2-propanediol and / or glycerol are present in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.0% by weight, preferably 0 , 5 to 5.5 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 0 to 3.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1, 5 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-%.
  • the agents according to the invention contain all essential constituents in an aqueous carrier. The water content of the agent also influences the deposition of the pigments on the keratin fibers and the film formation of the polymers (c).
  • the water content stated in% by weight refers to the amount of water which is contained in the total weight of the composition.
  • a temporary color change agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that, based on its total weight, it has a water content between 20 and 60% by weight, preferably between 24 and 54% by weight, more preferably between 28 and 50 wt .-% and particularly preferably between 32 and 42 wt .-% has.
  • the means for the temporary color change contain at least one color pigment (b).
  • a pigment is understood to mean a coloring compound which has a solubility of less than 0.1 g / l at 20 ° C. in water.
  • the following method can be used to determine the water solubility of the pigment: 0.1 g of the pigment is weighed in a beaker. A stir bar is added. It is then made up to 1 l with distilled water (20 ° C.). It is stirred for an hour. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.1 g / l.
  • a temporary color should be done.
  • white pigments are non-colored inorganic pigments with a high refractive index (usually greater than 1, 8), which are usually produced synthetically and, above all, under the definition of color pigments for the production of optical whiteness in paints or as a filler in, for example, plastics, white pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc dioxide are explicitly excluded from the definition of a colored pigment.
  • the color pigments are present in the form of small undissolved particles which do not diffuse into the hair fiber, but are deposited on the outer wall of the keratin fiber under the influence of the polymer (c) and held there by a polymer layer.
  • Suitable color pigments may be organic and / or inorganic origin. Due to their excellent light, weather and / or temperature resistance, the use of inorganic color pigments in the method according to the invention is particularly preferred.
  • the preferred average particle size of the - preferably inorganic - color pigments is 0.1 ⁇ to 1 mm, more preferably from 0.5 ⁇ to 750 ⁇ and in particular 10 ⁇ to 500 ⁇ .
  • Preferred color pigments are selected from inorganic pigments, which may be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be prepared, for example, from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, baked Terra di Siena or graphite.
  • black pigments such as inorganic color pigments
  • B. iron oxide black colored pigments such. As ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or Phosphoreszenzpigmente be used.
  • Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and / or molybdate.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and brown iron oxide (Cl 77491), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289 ), Iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510) and / or Carmine (Cochineal).
  • Color pigments which are particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and / or mica and can with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (Cl 77491 , Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), chromium oxide (Cl 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, Cl 77510).
  • metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (Cl 77491 , Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742
  • Mica belongs to the layer silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in conjunction with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • pearlescent pigment As an alternative to natural mica, it is also possible to use synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxide (s) as pearlescent pigment.
  • suitable pearlescent pigments based on natural micas are described in the publication WO 2005/065632, to which reference is expressly made.
  • Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the abovementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide (s).
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains as color pigment (b) at least one inorganic color pigment which is selected from colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or of colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains as color pigment (b) at least one colored pigment based on mica or mica, which contains one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (Cl 77491, Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289 ), Chromium oxide (Cl 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric ferrocyanide, Cl 77510).
  • metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (Cl 77491, Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultra
  • pigments are commercially available, for example under the trade names Rona ®, Colorona® ®, Dichrona® ® and Timiron ® from Merck, ariable ® and Unipure ® by the company Sensient, Prestige ® by the company Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine ® from available from Sunstar.
  • Colorona® ® Especially preferred colored elements with the trade name Colorona® ® include:
  • color pigments with tradename Unipure ® are for example:
  • the color pigment or pigments (b) can be used in different amounts.
  • the more color pigment used the higher the amount of color change in general. From a certain amount of use, however, the adhesion of the pigments to the keratin fiber runs against a limit above which it is no longer possible to increase the extent of the color change by further increasing the amount of pigment used.
  • the agents according to the invention can therefore contain the color pigments (b) in a total amount of from 1.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 5.0 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 7.0 to 18.0% by weight .-% and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 15.5 wt .-%.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, one or more color pigments (b) in a total amount of 1.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 5.0 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 7.0 to 18.0% by weight, and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 15.5% by weight.
  • the agents for the temporary color change of keratin fibers contain at least one cationic and / or zwitterionic polymer which contains at least one structural unit of the general formula I),
  • polymers are meant macromolecules having a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably of at least 2500 g / mol, more preferably of at least 5000 g / mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units.
  • Synthetic polymers are prepared by polymerization of a monomer type or by polymerization of different, structurally different monomer types. If the polymer is prepared by polymerization of a monomer type, one speaks of homo-polymers. If structurally different monomer types are used in the polymerization, the resulting polymer is referred to as a copolymer.
  • the maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size and is determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the cationic polymer (d) is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol.
  • Cationic polymers are understood as meaning organic polymeric compounds which carry exclusively cationic charges in the polymer chain or in the polymer backbone.
  • the cationic charges are neutralized by the presence of appropriate equivalents of anions such as chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, acetate or sulfate.
  • Zwitterionic polymers carry both cationic and anionic charges in the polymer chain or in the polymer backbone. If the polymer contains cationic and anionic structural units in equal molar equivalents, the charge balance is preferably carried out exclusively by these charges located in the polymer. When the zwitterionic polymer contains more cationic moieties than anionic moieties, the excess cationic charges are neutralized by the presence of appropriate equivalents of anions, such as chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, acetate or sulfate.
  • anions such as chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, acetate or sulfate.
  • the excess anionic charges are neutralized by the presence of appropriate equivalents of cations, such as sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, ammonium and / or trimethylammonium cations.
  • the cationic and / or zwitterionic polymers are then according to the invention if they comprise at least one structural unit of the general formula (I).
  • Polymers having structural units of the formula (I) can be obtained, for example, by polymerization of dimethyldiallylammonium salts, for example dimethyldiallylammonium chloride or dimethyldiallylammonium bromide.
  • the dimethyldiallylammonium salts can be used as the sole monomer in the polymerization. Furthermore, the polymerization of the dimethyldiallylammonium salts can also be carried out together with other monomers such as (meth) acrylamide and / or (meth) acrylic acid.
  • the structural units of the formula (I) represent the repeating units of the polymer, as a rule a polymer according to the invention therefore contains the structural units of the formula (I) not once but repeatedly.
  • positions marked with an asterisk in structure (I) represent the connecting positions to the further structural units of the polymer chain.
  • two consecutive structural units (I) in the polymer may be linked as follows:
  • this partial chain of the polymer will be replaced by two negative charges - e.g. in the form of two chloride anions - neutralized.
  • metal oxides selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide ( Cl 77491, Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl No. 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfo
  • the total amount of the fatty substances contained in the average (d) - based on the total weight of the composition - is below 2.5 wt .-%.
  • the films produced on the keratin fiber become all the more stable and allow the pigments to adhere better to the keratin fiber the higher the mole fraction of structural units of the formula (I).
  • the higher the mole fraction of diallyldimethylammonium chloride used in the polymerization the better films can be formed on the keratin fiber.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one cationic and / or zwitterionic polymer (c) which is at least 20 mol%, preferably at least 25 mol%, more preferably at least 30 Mol%, and more preferably at least 80 mol% of structural units of the formula (I).
  • radical R in each of the formulas independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • the radical M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation of sodium, potassium, magnesium or calcium.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one cationic and / or zwitterionic polymer (c) which additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and / or at least one structural unit of the formula (III) .
  • radical R in each of the formulas independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • the radical M is a hydrogen atom or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation of sodium, potassium, magnesium or calcium.
  • agents comprising a copolymer are also preferred.
  • Particularly suitable polymers are sold commercially, for example under the trade name Merquat ® by the company Ondeo Nalco. These are for example: Merquat ® 100 poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) (ca. 40% solids;
  • an agent for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair containing in an aqueous cosmetic carrier
  • the total amount of the fatty substances contained in the average (d) - based on the total weight of the composition - is below 2.5 wt .-%.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains as polymer (c) a cationic polymer.
  • an agent for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair contained in an aqueous cosmetic carrier
  • (a) at least 35.0% by weight of ethanol (b) at least one colored pigment based on mica or mica and containing one or more metal oxides selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide ( Cl 77491, Cl 77499), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminosulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), chromium oxide (Cl 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, Cl 77510) is and
  • poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) i.e., polyquaternium-6
  • the total amount of fatty substances (d) present based on the total weight of the composition, being less than 2.5% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention usually contain the polymer (s) (c) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3 , 0 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 1, 4 to 2.6 wt .-%.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, one or more cationic and / or zwitterionic polymers (c) in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.8 to 3.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 1, 4 to 2.6 wt .-%.
  • the amounts of color pigments (b) and polymers (c) are advantageously matched to one another.
  • color pigments (b) and polymers (c) are used in a weight ratio of 1.0 to 6.0, the majority of the pigments can be effectively bonded via the polymer film and immobilized on the fiber in this manner.
  • the total amount of the color pigments (b) contained in the average is related to the total amount of polymers (c) present in the middle.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the weight ratio of all colorant-containing color pigments (b) to all cationic and zwitterionic polymers (c) contained in the composition, i. the weight ratio (b) / (c) at a value of 1.0 to 6.0, preferably 2.0 to 5.5, more preferably 2.5 to 5.0, and particularly preferably 3.0 to 4.5 is located.
  • the known from the prior art hair mascara products usually contain fatty substances; These fatty substances can also form a film on the keratin fibers, which protects the pigments from abrasion after use.
  • the main disadvantage of the fatty substances is that they produce a little favorable feel on the keratin fiber, which manifests itself in particular in a feeling of hardness and greasy hair sensation.
  • the keratin fibers have a heavy weight and visually give the impression of greasy hair.
  • the total amount of fatty substances (d) present on the average, based on the total weight of the composition is less than 2.5% by weight.
  • fatty substances are organic compounds having a solubility in water at room temperature (22 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight.
  • the definition of fatty constituents explicitly includes only uncharged (ie nonionic) compounds ..
  • Fat substances in the meaning of the present invention have at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 12 carbon atoms If the fatty substances contain an unsaturated alkyl group, this may have one or more double bonds
  • the molar weight of the fat constituents is at most 5000 g / mol, preferably at most 2500 g / mol and particularly preferably at 1000 g / mol it is neither polyoxyalkylated nor polyglycerylated compounds, ie fatty alcohols le or fatty acids which are esterified or etherified with at least two oxyalkyl groups or with at least two glycerol units are not covered by the definition of fatty substances.
  • Ci2-C3o-fatty alcohols are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols having 12 to 30 carbon atoms act.
  • Examples of C 12 -C 30 -fatty alcohols are dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol , Stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol) and / or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).
  • branched fatty alcohols examples include 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.
  • fatty substances (d) are also Ci2-C3o fatty acid triglycerides.
  • a Ci2-C3o-fatty acid triglyceride is understood to mean the triester of the trivalent alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a triglyceride molecule can be involved in the ester formation.
  • the fatty substances also include C12 C30 fatty acid diglycerides.
  • Ci2-C3o fatty acid diglyceride is understood as meaning the diester of the trivalent alcohol glycerol with two equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a diglyceride molecule can be involved in the ester formation.
  • the fatty substances also include C12-C30 fatty acid monoglycerides.
  • a C12-C30 fatty acid monoglyceride is understood as meaning the monoester of the trivalent alcohol Glyceirn with one equivalent of fatty acid.
  • the diesters also comprise one equivalent of ethylene glycol (1,2-ethanediol) with two equivalents of fatty acid (ethylene glycol difatty acid ester). Both structurally identical and different fatty acids can be involved in the ester bonds with the ethylene glycol.
  • the fatty substances (d) also include waxes.
  • Waxing means the esters of C12-C30 fatty acids with C12-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty substances (d) also include hydrocarbons having at least 12 carbon atoms.
  • Hydrocarbons are exclusively compounds consisting of the atoms carbon and hydrogen.
  • Examples of hydrocarbons are mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (e.g., Paraffinium Liquidum or Paraffinum Perliquidum), isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, Paraffin Solidum, Vaseline, and Polydecene.
  • Silicones are not included in the definition of fatty substances.
  • According to the invention therefore is a means for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in an aqueous cosmetic carrier
  • the total amount of the fatty substances (d) on average at a value below 2.0 wt .-%, preferably below 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably below 0.5 wt .-% and more preferably below 0.1 wt%.
  • the weight data here refer to the total amount of all fatty substances (d), which are related to the total weight of the agent.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the total amount of all fatty substances (d) present in the middle, in particular the fatty substances from the group of C 2 -C 30 -fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 30 -fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 C3o-fatty acid diglycerides, the Ci2-C3o-fatty acid monoglycerides, the ethylene glycol difatty acid ester, the waxes and the hydrocarbons at a value below 2.0% by weight, preferably below 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably below 0.5 wt .-%, and more preferably below 0, 1 wt .-% is.
  • an agent for the temporary color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, contained in an aqueous cosmetic carrier is particularly preferred.
  • the agents are provided as aqueous-alcoholic preparations.
  • a surface-active substance can additionally be added to the agents, such surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of application.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one nonionic surfactant and / or one cationic surfactant. The use of anionic surfactants has proved to be of little advantage.
  • the agents according to the invention may additionally contain at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides and alkylene oxide addition products of fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having good properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol which have been reacted with at least 2 moles of ethylene oxide.
  • the nonionic surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition
  • the agents according to the invention may additionally contain at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Cationic surfactants are understood to mean surfactants, ie surface-active compounds, each having one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain only positive charges. Usually, these surfactants are composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, wherein the hydrophobic part usually consists of a hydrocarbon skeleton (eg consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge (s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants are examples of cationic surfactants.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which can carry as hydrophobic radicals one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms quaternary phosphonium salts substituted with one or more alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms or
  • the cationic charge may also be in the form of an onium structure as part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g., an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring).
  • the cationic surfactant may also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case with esterquats, for example.
  • the cationic surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • anionic surfactants has been found to be negative in terms of the abrasion resistance of the pigments on the keratin fibers. For this reason, it is preferred not to use anionic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Anionic surfactants are surfactants with exclusively anionic charges (neutralized by a corresponding counter cation).
  • anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 12 to 20 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the total amount of all anionic surfactants present in the composition is below 2.5% by weight, preferably below 1.5% by weight, more preferably below 0, 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably below 0.1 wt .-% - wherein all quantities are based on the total weight of the composition.
  • agents according to the invention are characterized in that the total amount of all anionic surfactants contained in the middle of the group of fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids at a value below 2.5 wt .-%, preferably below 1, 5 Wt .-%, more preferably below 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably below 0, 1 wt .-% - wherein all quantities are based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the agents according to the invention may furthermore comprise at least one zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant.
  • Suitable zwitterionic surfactants are betaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
  • Especially preferred Amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a variety of forms. When applied over a sponge or a small brush very uniform color effects and rubbed dyeings can be achieved. Likewise, however, it is also possible to formulate the compositions according to the invention as a spray. In particular, the dyeings obtained by the spray application are characterized by a very high uniformity.
  • the agents according to the invention are adjusted to a specific viscosity. This is usually done by using one or more thickeners. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used.
  • Suitable thickeners are anionic, synthetic polymers; cationic synthetic polymers; naturally occurring thickeners such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose , Amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; and inorganic thickening agents, in particular phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite.
  • naturally occurring thickeners such as nonionic guar gums, s
  • the viscosity of the compositions can be adjusted in a particularly simple and reproducible manner by polysaccharides, in particular polysaccharides from the group of the carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl-celluloses, the hydroxy-C 2 -C 8 -alkylcelluloses, the alginic acids and / or xanthan gum.
  • the agent can be formulated both as a gel for the brush or sponge application or else as a low-viscosity, sprayable solution.
  • the other recipe components or their quantities do not have to be adjusted here. This is particularly advantageous in the production of funds.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it additionally contains as thickener at least one polysaccharide from the group of the carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl-celluloses, the hydroxy-C 2 -C 8 -alkylcelluloses, the alginic acids and / or Contains xanthan gum.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it additionally contains as thickener at least one polysaccharide from the group of hydroxy-C 2 -C 8 -alkylcelluloses.
  • the thickener or thickeners may in the inventive compositions in a total amount of 0.1 to 4.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.15 to 3.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the agent - are used.
  • the compositions according to the invention may contain one or more alkalizing agents.
  • the alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention for adjusting the desired pH values can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines, basic amino acids and inorganic alkalizing agents such as (earth) alkali metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal metasilicates, (earth) alkali metal phosphates and ( Earth) alkali metal hydrogen phosphates.
  • the compositions according to the invention may contain one or more acids. Suitable acids include, for example, organic acids such as alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids or inorganic acids.
  • the agents may contain one or more nonionic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol® (BASF).
  • Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73 in each case vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are likewise preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone as sold for example under the name Luviskol® (BASF).
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example linear cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, diethyl sulfate-quaternized dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol; zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers (other than the polymers of the invention); anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids or crosslinked polyacrylic acids; Structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example, lecithin and cephalins; Perfume oils, dimethylisorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose,
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective compositions.
  • the products according to the invention can be formulated, for example, in the form of a gel, a spray, an aerosol or a pump foam. Depending on the application, they are therefore preferably filled in a tube, a container, a bottle, a can, a pressure vessel or in a container with pump spray applicator.
  • the pigments can be applied evenly to the keratin fibers.
  • the preparation as an aerosol or as a pump spray is therefore very particularly preferred.
  • the product according to the invention comprises a pressure vessel.
  • pressure gas container come vessels made of metal (aluminum, tinplate, tin), protected or non-splitterndem plastic or glass, which is coated with plastic outside, in question, in their selection pressure and fracture resistance, corrosion resistance, easy fillability as well as aesthetic Aspects, handiness, printability etc. play a role.
  • Special internal protective lacquers can guarantee corrosion resistance to the preparation contained in the pressure vessel.
  • the agents additionally comprise at least one propellant from the group of propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, pentene, isopentane, isopentene, Air, nitrogen, argon, N2O and / or CO2.
  • the permanent gases air, nitrogen, argon, N2O and / or CO2 are preferred, most preferably nitrogen, argon and / or CO2.
  • agents according to the invention can also be applied in the form of a pump spray.
  • Suitable containers with pump or squeeze mechanism are commercially available from Rexam SMT or Seaquist, for example.
  • the user can spray the compositions according to the invention directly onto the dry hair and in this way produce the desired temporary color change.
  • a second subject of the present invention is therefore a process for the temporary color and shape change of hair, wherein an agent of the first subject of the invention, which is formulated in the form of a pump spray or aerosol spray, is sprayed onto the dry hair and the hair is pre-formed or during the application to the hairstyle is placed.
  • the formulation was applied to a dry lock of hair (Kerlinggnablond) by means of a sponge. It was obtained a uniformly colored strand with golden shimmer.
  • Polyquaternium-6 (homopolymer of diallyldimethylammonium)
  • the formulation was applied to a dry strand of hair (Kerling MUSTblond) with a small brush. It was obtained a uniformly colored strand with golden shimmer.
  • the formulation was placed in a pump-spray nebulizer and sprayed on a dry strand of hair (Kerling Sprintblond). It was obtained a uniformly colored strand with golden shimmer.

Abstract

L'invention a pour objet des agents pour modifier temporairement la couleur de fibres kératiniques, contenant dans un support cosmétique aqueux : (a) au moins un alcool aliphatique et/ou aromatique comprenant de 2 à 8 atomes de C ; (b) au moins un pigment de couleur ; et (c) au moins un polymère cationique et/ou zwitterionique comprenant au moins un motif structural de formule générale (I), la quantité totale des corps gras (d) contenus dans l'agent prenant une valeur - rapportée au poids total de l'agent - inférieure à 2,5 % en poids.
PCT/EP2015/071434 2014-10-23 2015-09-18 Modification temporaire de la couleur des cheveux au moyen de pigments, d'alcools et de polymères zwitterioniques ou cationiques WO2016062467A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102014221532.3 2014-10-23
DE102014221532.3A DE102014221532A1 (de) 2014-10-23 2014-10-23 Temporäre Farbveränderung von Haaren mit Pigmenten, Alkoholen und nichtionischen Polymeren
DE102014221652.4 2014-10-24
DE102014221652.4A DE102014221652A1 (de) 2014-10-24 2014-10-24 Temporäre Farbveränderung von Haaren mit Pigmenten, Alkoholen und zwitterionischen bzw. kationischen Polymeren

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WO2016062467A1 true WO2016062467A1 (fr) 2016-04-28

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111050737A (zh) * 2017-07-11 2020-04-21 汉高股份有限及两合公司 用于暂时改变角蛋白材料颜色的防水型化妆剂i

Citations (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4915935A (en) * 1984-08-09 1990-04-10 Clairol Incorporated Process for applying reflective particles to hair
WO1993013743A1 (fr) * 1992-01-16 1993-07-22 L'oreal Produit a base de particules minerales colorees comportant un pigment melanique, son procede de preparation et son utilisation en cosmetique
EP1374837A1 (fr) * 2002-06-26 2004-01-02 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Mousse aérosol pour traitement capillaire
US20080299154A1 (en) * 2007-05-30 2008-12-04 L'oreal Usa Products, Inc. Cosmetic hair compositions containing metal-oxide layered pigments and methods of use

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4915935A (en) * 1984-08-09 1990-04-10 Clairol Incorporated Process for applying reflective particles to hair
WO1993013743A1 (fr) * 1992-01-16 1993-07-22 L'oreal Produit a base de particules minerales colorees comportant un pigment melanique, son procede de preparation et son utilisation en cosmetique
EP1374837A1 (fr) * 2002-06-26 2004-01-02 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Mousse aérosol pour traitement capillaire
US20080299154A1 (en) * 2007-05-30 2008-12-04 L'oreal Usa Products, Inc. Cosmetic hair compositions containing metal-oxide layered pigments and methods of use

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111050737A (zh) * 2017-07-11 2020-04-21 汉高股份有限及两合公司 用于暂时改变角蛋白材料颜色的防水型化妆剂i
CN111050737B (zh) * 2017-07-11 2023-02-28 汉高股份有限及两合公司 用于暂时改变角蛋白材料颜色的防水型化妆剂

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