WO2015185330A1

WO2015185330A1 - Conditioning hair preparation, in particular shampoo, containing silicons and quarternised guar derivatives

Info

Publication number: WO2015185330A1
Application number: PCT/EP2015/060301
Authority: WO
Inventors: Julia NEMNICH; Robert Klauck; Nathalie Sors
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2014-06-04
Filing date: 2015-05-11
Publication date: 2015-12-10
Also published as: EP3151810B1; DE102014210584A1; MA40186A; EP3151810A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations, in particular shampoos, which comprise a) an aqueous phase which contains one or more boundary and/or surface active substances, b) one more guar-hydroxyproply trimethylammonium chloride, c) one or more silicon oil emulsions.

Description

Conditioning hair composition, in particular shampoos, containing silicones and quaternised guar derivatives

description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation comprising one or more silicones and one or more quaternized guar derivatives, in particular guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides, furthermore one or more surfactants and the use of this preparation.

Hair washing plays a central role in human body care. The cleaning of the hair and scalp of the body's own fat, Hautabschilferungen, dirt and odors meets a basic need of man.

In order to satisfy this need, until the 20th century man was the only person to have soap available, which, because of its alkaline pH value, was poorly tolerated by the scalp and eyelashes and frequently left deposits of lime soap in the hair. In the thirties of the 20th century, the first alkyl sulphate shampoo was born. Since the mid-sixties, alkyl ether sulfates and other surfactants have conquered the shampoo market. With them, the disadvantages of soap-containing preparations can be avoided. Modern shampoos today do not just have to cleanse the hair and be well-tolerated. Rather, they should also care for the hair and increase its friability and visual attractiveness.

Hair shampoos contain a variety of different components to meet the individual requirements of the product:

The cleaning power of the shampoos is brought about by the presence of anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants as surface-active compounds in the preparations. Surfactants also ensure the foaming power of the hair cleanser. In addition, their insensitivity to the selection of surfactants is important. water hardness, their biodegradability, their compatibility with other components of the preparation and their price. For example, a widely used shampoo surfactant is alkyl ether sulfate.

In addition, shampoos contain a number of consistency regulators that impart the desired viscosity to the formulation. These thickeners cause an enlargement of the surfactant micelles or a swelling of the water phase of the preparation. Thickeners can be selected from chemically very different substance classes. So u.a. Electrolytes (e.g., sodium chloride), alkanolamides (e.g., fatty acid monoethanolamides), low ethoxylated fatty alcohols (e.g., diethylene glycol monolauryl ether), highly ethoxylated ethers, esters and diesters, and polymeric thickeners. The polymeric thickeners include, for example, cellulose ethers. In addition, polyacrylates and hydrocolloids are also used as thickeners. Polymeric thickeners have the great advantage that the viscosity produced by them is largely independent of temperature.

In addition to perfumes and dyes and a number of compounds that increase the shelf life of the preparations, the hair shampoos different types of active ingredients are recently added. In addition to UV absorbers, vitamins or plant extracts, this also includes so-called hair conditioners (English, conditioner), which care for the hair and improve its combability and its grip and increase its gloss. Conditioners, unlike most other ingredients of shampoos, attract hair and remain there after rinsing. Due to their molecular structure, they attach themselves to the damaged areas of the cuticle of the hair and smooth the hair. This makes the hair less rough and brittle, the hairstyle gets much more shine and is easier to comb. Also, the hair becomes less sensitive to electrostatic charging. The most important hair-conditioning substances in shampoos are the polymeric quaternary ammonium compounds. It is also possible to use cationic cellulose derivatives and polysaccharides. Furthermore, silicone compounds are used for conditioning.

A disadvantage of the prior art is the fact that it has so far been insufficient to regulate the amount of depositing on the hair conditioner. In most cases, the repeated use of hair conditioners results in an increase in the amount of conditioner on the hair. Due to the increase of conditioners on the hair this is more and more complained (English, build up-effect), the hairstyle appears unkempt and stringy. This is especially the case with longer hair, which requires special care by conditioners. It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a cosmetic preparation and in particular a hair cleanser (shampoo), which eliminates or at least alleviates the deficiencies of the prior art.

Surprisingly, the object is achieved by cosmetic preparations, in particular shampoos, which comprise

a) an aqueous phase,

which one or more border or surface active substance or

Contains substances,

b) one or more guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides,

c) one or more silicone oil emulsions

The preparations according to the invention lead to a far improved wet combability as well as to a significantly improved silicone position on different hair fiber qualities than is the case with conventional mixtures of silicone shampoos with cationic polymers. Even long hair is hardly weighted even with repeated application of the preparation according to the invention and is of silky shine.

Guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides advantageous according to the invention advantageously have charge densities of from 0.4 to 1.0 meq / g, preferably from 0.6 to 0.8 meq / g, and a molecular weight of from 1,000,000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 3,000,000 g / mol , on. Particularly advantageous according to the invention are guar derivatives of the Jaguar series. Very particularly preferred according to the invention is the guar derivative Jaguar C14-S from Rhodia.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention advantageously contain one or more guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides in a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.01 to 2% by weight and most preferably in a concentration of 0 , 1 to 0.2% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.

Nowadays, silicone oil emulsions are offered in which high-molecular weight silicones in a liquid form are passed through the emulsion process and processed more easily. you can. Dimethiconol emulsion polymers are oil / water emulsions which, in addition to the dimethiconol, also contain water, an emulsifier-which, at the same time, also acts as an acidic catalyst-such as sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, a preservative and a base such as triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide.

Thus, molecular weight and droplet size of the silicone droplets can be adjusted in a targeted manner in the emulsin polymerization. In the emulsion polymerization process the dimethiconol is formed. The viscosity of Dimethiconoles and the particle size can be adjusted via special options. Likewise, dimethicone emulsions can be produced. Here the dimethicone final is emulsified. With dimethicone emulsions, there are limits with regard to the minimum possible droplet size and the maximum possible viscosity.

⁾ NE DIMETHICONOL

Silicone oil emulsions advantageous according to the invention are dimethiconol emulsion polymerization types. These advantageously have viscosities of 800,000 to 13,000,000 mPas, preferably 800,000 mPas, and a droplet size of 200 to 350 nm, preferably 200 nm. Very particular preference according to the invention is the Silsoft EM-160A from Momentive.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention contain advantageous dimethiconol emulsions in a concentration of 1 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

Examples of the cationic surfactants which can be used in the context of the present invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds. Preference is given to antimony halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Alkylamidoamines, in particular Fatty acid amidoamines, such as the stearylamidopropyldimethylamine available under the name Tego Amid ™ S 18, are furthermore distinguished by their good biodegradability. Likewise very readily biodegradable are quaternary ester compounds, so-called "esterquats", such as the methylhydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulphates sold under the trademark Stepantex ™, and the corresponding products which are commercially available under the trademark Dehyquart ™. An example of a quaternary sugar derivative which can be used as cationic surfactant is the commercial product Glucquat ™ 100, according to CTFA nomenclature a "Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride".

Suitable anionic surfactants are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ether, amide and hydroxyl groups and, as a rule, ester groups can also be present in the molecule. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C 8 -C 22 -carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid. Particularly preferred are the anionic surfactants containing at least one carboxylate group.

Preparations according to the invention comprise at least one or more border-active or surface-active substance or substances, commonly referred to as surfactants, where in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants may be very particularly preferred.

With respect to the anionic and cationic surfactants, reference is made to the above.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (-) or -SO 3 (-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the kosalkyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethyl-ammoniumglycinate, for example, the cocoacylamino-propyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3- carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacyl aminoethyl-hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 18 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-18-acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. For example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example:

Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C12-C22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides.

The compounds containing alkyl groups used as surfactants may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native plant or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained. In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alkoxides as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

Further active agents, auxiliaries and additives are, for example, nonionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,

cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, quaternary group polysiloxanes, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers, diethyl sulfate-quaternized dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers, and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol;

zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers such as, for example, acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octyl acrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers , Vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers,

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,

Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils, Protein hydrolysates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolysates,

Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine and Zinc Omadine,

other substances for adjusting the pH, such as alpha - and beta -hydroxycarboxylic acids

Active substances such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their salts, plant extracts and vitamins,

Cholesterol,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax and montan wax,

fatty acid,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex,

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C 2 O 2 and air,

Antioxidants.

With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. K. Schräder, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

The following examples are intended to further explain the subject matter of the invention. Example recipes:

Trade names:

1. Ethersulfate K25 NK, Beiersdorf

2. Tego Betain F 50, Evonik Goldschmidt

3. Comperlan 100, BASF

4. Comperlan KD, BASF

5. Rewoteric AM C, Evonik

6. Ucare Polymer JR-400, Dow Chemical

7. Jaguar guys, Solvay

8. Merquat 550, Lubrizol

9. Silsoft EM-160 A, Momentive

10. Dow Coming MQ-1640 Flake Resin, Dow Corning

1 1. BRB DM 5, BRB International

12. PEG-3 Distearate Solution, Beiersdorf

13. Euperlan PK 300 OK, BASF

14. Polyox WSR-301, Nordmann & Rassmann

15. Sodium benzoate EDF BP 98, Wuhan Youji Industries

16. Sodium hydroxide 45%, Brenntag

17. Neolone 950, Dow Chemical

18. Phenoxyethanol R +, BASF

19. Sodium hydroxide 45%, 3V Sigma

20. Eumulgin CO 40, BASF

21. /

22. Citric acid monohydrate, Jungbunzlauer

23. Suprasel fine, Akzo Nobel

24. Sodium salicylate BP 93, Schütz & Co

Experimental examples:

The preparations according to the invention lead to a much improved wet combability and to a markedly improved silicone position on different hair fiber qualities than is the case with conventional mixtures of silicone shampoos with cationic polymers. Even long hair is hardly weighted even with repeated application of the preparation according to the invention and is of silky shine. Measurement of the silica probe position by IR spectroscopy:

The deposition of silicone on hair was determined using the Fourier transform IR and an ATR germanium crystal. The FT-IR device Vector 22 with ATR unit from Bruker was used. For each formulation, 2 hair tresses are measured at 5 different points, with the upper 2 and below 5 cm omitted. The evaluation is carried out by the integration of the silicone band (1276.6 to 1245.9 cm ^-1 ) and the second amide band (1585 to 1486.9 cm ^-1 ). The ratio of the two surfaces, from silicone to protein, is formed.

Sample preparation - treatment of the test pieces:

Gloves are worn for sample preparation, which are washed with the products to be examined before application. The hair tress is first thoroughly cleaned and then washed twice with the product. The lace is air dried overnight. All tests are carried out with waste water (constant water hardness and temperature). For the damaged hair, hair tresses in the laboratory itself are moderately damaged with hydrogen peroxide.

The evaluation shows that Silsoft EM-160A shows the best silicone position on undamaged hair compared to another silicone, also in combination with Jaguar C14 S and the market product. Carrying out the combing force measurement:

To perform the so-called rinse profile (see Figure 1), undamaged hair is used. Wet combability before and after treatment with the product to be tested is determined at different times during rinsing:

Rinse after 15 seconds

- Rinse after 30 seconds

- Rinse after 60 seconds

- Rinse after 90 seconds

In Figure 1 it can be seen that the formulas with Silsoft EM-160 A significantly reduce the combing forces and are generally at a lower level than the formula with the other silicone and as the market product.

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic preparations, in particular shampoos, which comprise

a) an aqueous phase,

which contains one or more border-active or substances, or substances,

b) one or more guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides,

c) one or more silicone oil emulsions

2. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the or the guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides is selected from the group of derivatives or are, the or the charge densities of 0.4 to 1, 0 meq / g, preferably 0.6 to 0.8 meq / g, and a molecular weight of 1,000,000 to

3000000 g / mol, preferably 2000000 to 3000000 g / mol, or have.

3. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the guar or Hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchloride in a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.01 to 2 weight, and most preferably in a concentration of 0, 1 to 0.2% by weight, present or present, each based on the total weight of the preparation.

4. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone emulsion / s is selected or are from the group of dimethiconol emulsion polymerization with viscosities of 800000 to 1300000 mPas, preferably 800000 mPas, and a droplet size of 200 to 350 nm, preferred 200 nm, are.

5. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dimethiconol emulsion dimethiconol emulsions in a concentration of 1 to 2% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparation.