WO2013092692A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose, a cationic surfactant and a branched fatty alcohol - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose, a cationic surfactant and a branched fatty alcohol Download PDF

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WO2013092692A2
WO2013092692A2 PCT/EP2012/076122 EP2012076122W WO2013092692A2 WO 2013092692 A2 WO2013092692 A2 WO 2013092692A2 EP 2012076122 W EP2012076122 W EP 2012076122W WO 2013092692 A2 WO2013092692 A2 WO 2013092692A2
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weight
group
groups
composition according
chosen
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PCT/EP2012/076122
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WO2013092692A3 (en
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Valérie Viravau
Marie-Cécile Degoul
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L'oreal
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose, a cationic surfactant and a branched fatty alcohol
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more particular hydrophobically mo dified cellulo ses, one or more cationic surfactants and one or more branched fatty alcoho ls.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials using such a composition and also to a cosmetic use of the said composition.
  • the care o f keratin fibres subj ected to various external attacking factors is sought.
  • these fibres may be subj ect to attack of various origins, such as mechanical attack, for example linked to disentangling or blow-drying, or alternatively chemical attack, for example fo llowing dyeing or permanent-waving.
  • One subj ect of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition for cleansing the body or for conditioning the hair, comprising one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses with a content of hydrophobic group(s) (degree of hydrophobization) o f greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulo se, one or more cationic surfactants and one or more branched fatty alcohols.
  • This particular combination proves to be particularly suitable for the hair and makes it possible to improve its cosmetic properties, and in particular to afford the hair better shaping and more vo lume, with very good disentangling and very good suppleness and sheen properties .
  • these care compositions are more eco-friendly, i. e . less ecotoxic with respect to the environment.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, which consists in applying a composition according to the invention to the keratin materials .
  • composition according to the invention may be rinsed out or left in, optionally applied under the effect o f heat, and optionally combined with chemical and/or mechanical hair treatments .
  • compositions according to the invention are used for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body.
  • the composition comprises one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses with a content of hydrophobic group(s) of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, one or more cationic surfactants and from 0.5 to 20 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more branched fatty alcohols.
  • hydrophobically modified cellulose means a nonionic cellulose modified with one or more hydrophobic groups, and more particularly a nonionic cellulose ether modified with one or more hydrophobic groups.
  • the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) used in the invention comprise a main chain consisting of a nonionic cellulose ether onto which are attached one or more hydrophobic groups chosen from:
  • C9-C30 preferably C10-C22, better still C 12 -C 18 , alkyl groups, and C6-C30 aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups.
  • the aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups preferably comprise from 7, better still from 8, and even more preferentially from 10 carbon atoms, up to 22, even better still up to 18, and even more preferentially up to 16 carbon atoms,
  • the said hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) do not comprise any non-alkoxylated C3-8 alkyl groups.
  • alkoxy groups examples include the 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(C3-C6 alkyl) group and hexyloxy, 2- ethylhexyloxy, octyloxy, cetyloxy and octadecyloxy groups.
  • Examples o f a hydrophobic group of family 2) are in particular decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl, cetyl, octadecyl and methylphenyl groups, and even better still dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl and cetyl groups.
  • the hydrophobic group(s) may be attached to the cellulose ether chain via an ether, ester or urethane bond, the ether bond being particularly preferred.
  • hydrophobic group(s) are chosen from:
  • alkoxy fragment is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms,
  • o f nonionic cellulose ethers constituting the main chain mention may be made especially o f hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), methylcellulose (MC) , hydroxypropylmethylcellulo se (HPMC), ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC) and methylhydroxyethylcellulose (MHEC) .
  • HEC hydroxyethylcellulose
  • HPC hydroxypropylcellulose
  • MC methylcellulose
  • HPMC hydroxypropylmethylcellulo se
  • EHEC ethylhydroxyethylcellulose
  • MHEC methylhydroxyethylcellulose
  • Hydroxyethylcellulo se is particularly preferred.
  • hydroxyl -OH groups of the cellulose have become -OR groups with R denoting in particular a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl group, or a hydrophobic group as defined above.
  • the content of hydrophobic group(s) (or degree o f hydrophobization) o f the hydrophobically modified cellulo ses of the invention corresponds to the ratio of the total weight of the hydrophobic groups to the total weight o f the hydrophobically modified cellulose, multiplied by 1 00.
  • This content is greater than 0.6% by weight, preferably greater than 0.8% by weight, and better still greater than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of hydrophobically modified cellulose .
  • This content is preferentially less than 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of hydrophobically mo dified cellulose .
  • the hydrophobically mo dified cellulo se(s) used in the invention have a weight-average mo lecular weight ranging preferably from 1 00 000 to 2 000 000 , better still from 200 000 to 1 500 000 , and even more preferentially from 250 000 to 1 000 000.
  • the hydrophobically mo dified cellulo se(s) used in the invention are chosen from cetylhydroxyethylcellulo ses with a content of hydrophobic group(s) o f greater than 0.6% by weight.
  • mentio n may be made o f the fo llowing compounds listed in Table 1 , which are commercially available from Hercules :
  • the Cellulo se 1 compound is prepared according to the process described in Examples 1 to 1 0 of US 4 228 277, using a cetyl halide as reactant, and a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) having an appropriate mo lar degree of hydroxyethyl substitution.
  • a cetyl halide as reactant
  • HEC hydroxyethylcellulose
  • the Cellulo se 2 compound is prepared according to the process described in Examples 1 to 10 of US 4 228 277, using a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) having an appropriate mo lar degree o f hydroxyethyl substitution.
  • HEC hydroxyethylcellulose
  • the Cellulo se 3 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EP 1 858970, using a cetyl halide in place of the epoxide.
  • the Cellulo se 4 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EP 1 858970 , using a mixture of epoxide derivatives of dodecane and of tetradecane.
  • the Cellulo se 5 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EP 1 858970, using a cetyl halide in place of the epoxide.
  • the hydrophobically modified cellulo se(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0. 1 % 5 % by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, salts o f optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts for example, of:
  • the groups Rs to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C 1 -C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 )alkylamido(C 2 -C6)alkyl, (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkylacetate and C 1 -C30 hydroxyalkyl,
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or also to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk;
  • Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives,
  • Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • R12 and Ri3 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and Ri3 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and Ri3 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo
  • Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
  • Ri7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH 2 )3-N + (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a),
  • Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R 2 o and R 2 1 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
  • X " is an anionic counterion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
  • R 22 is chosen from Ci-C 6 alkyl groups and Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
  • R 2 3 is chosen from:
  • Ci-C 22 - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C 22
  • R25 is chosen from:
  • R24, R26 and R 2 8 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
  • rl and tl which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
  • X " is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C 21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X " is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate.
  • a halide preferably chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived from an organic acid, such as a
  • the anion X " is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
  • - P22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • - P23 is chosen from:
  • - P25 is chosen from:
  • P24, P26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
  • examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, o f diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,
  • the acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil . When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is fo llowed by a quaternization by means o f an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glyco l chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glyco l chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are, for example, so ld under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 1 8 by Rewo-Witco .
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture o f quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts .
  • Examples o f such compounds that may be mentioned include distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and in particular the methosulfates .
  • Use may also be made o f the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 1 80. Use may also be made o f behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 1 3 1 .
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium and distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereo f
  • behenyltrimethylammonium chloride cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate and distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.05 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0. 1 % to 5 % by weight, better still from 0.5 %) to 5 % by weight and even better still from 0.5 %> to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) are present in the compositions according to the invention such that the weight ratio between the amount of cationic surfactant(s), on the one hand, and the amount o f hydrophobically modified cellulose(s), on the other hand, preferably ranges from 0. 1 to 100 and is preferably greater than or equal to 1 , and better still ranges from 1 to 20 and more preferably from 1 .5 to 1 0.
  • the weight ratio between the amount of branched fatty alcoho l(s), on the one hand, and the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s), on the other hand ranges from 1 to 20 and more preferably from 1 .5 to 1 0.
  • the branched fatty alcoho ls used in the invention preferably comprise from 1 0 to 100 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 1 6 to 40 and better still from 20 to 40 carbon atoms . They are neither glycerolated nor oxyalkylenated.
  • They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • They may be so lid or liquid, and preferably liquid.
  • liquid fatty alcoho l is intended to mean a non- glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcoho l, which is liquid at standard temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i. e. 1 .013 10 5 Pa) .
  • Examples o f branched fatty alcoho ls that may be mentioned include isostearyl alcoho l, 2-octyl- 1 -dodecanol, 2-butyloctano l, 2- hexyl- 1 -decanol, 2-tetradecyl- 1 -cetanol, 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2- tetradecyl- 1 -octadecano l, 2-tetradecyl- 1 -eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl- 1 - octadecanol, 2-hexadecyl- 1 -eicosanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the branched fatty alcoho l used in the invention is 2-octyl- 1 -dodecanol.
  • the branched fatty alcoho l(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.5 % to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 % to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5 % to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight o f the composition.
  • composition may also comprise one or more silicones which are not chemically modified.
  • sicone is intended to denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer o f linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable mo lecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially o f a repetition o f main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms.
  • hydrocarbon-based radicals that are the most common are alkyl radicals, especially C i -C i o alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is Ci-Cio, and aryl radicals and in particular phenyl.
  • silicone which is not chemically modified means any linear or cyclic silicone which does not comprise in its structure any organofunctional groups, such as a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine, polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy, thiol, alkoxy, hydroxyl, acyloxyalkyl or hydroxyacylamino group.
  • organofunctional groups such as a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine, polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy, thiol, alkoxy, hydroxyl, acyloxyalkyl or hydroxyacylamino group.
  • the silicones which are not chemically modified, of the invention comprise in their structure only siloxane groups substituted with alkyl or aryl groups.
  • the silicones that can be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i.e. dissolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emulsions.
  • the polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • polyoraganosiloxanes are preferably chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof, the alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and even better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl groups being a phenyl group
  • the alkyl groups are methyl groups.
  • the silicones may be volatile or non- volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • linear vo latile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity o f less than or equal to 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s at 25 °C .
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane so ld in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76 , pp . 27-32 , Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .
  • silicones are non- vo latile, use is preferably made o f polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly o f polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5xl0 "6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C and preferably lxlO "5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 cSt,
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from lxlO "5 to 5xl0 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • the silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average mo lecular weights o f between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a so lvent.
  • This so lvent can be chosen from vo latile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • Products that may be used more particularly are the fo llowing mixtures :
  • a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average mo lecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity o f 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity o f 5 > ⁇ 10 "6 m 2 /s.
  • This product preferably comprises 15 % of gum SE 30 and 85 % of an oil SF 96.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the fo llowing units : R2 S 1O2/2 , R3 S 1O 1 /2 , RS1O3/2 and S 1O 4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group .
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group .
  • the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1 - C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group .
  • Silicone Fluid S S 4230 and S S 4267 by General Electric which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.
  • the silicones which are not chemically modified, that are particularly preferred, are linear polydimethylsiloxanes comprising trimethylsilyl end groups or dimethicones .
  • the silicone(s) which are not chemically modified are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential amounts ranging from 0.0 1 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0. 1 % to 5 % by weight and better still from 0.2% to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the amount of silicone(s) which are not chemically modified and, on the other hand, the amount of hydrophobically mo dified cellulo se(s) ranges from 0. 1 to 100, even more preferentially from 1 to 20 and better still from 1 .5 to 1 0.
  • composition may also comprise one or more amino silicones.
  • amino silicone is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group .
  • the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprise(s) in its (their) structure at least 4 silicon atoms.
  • the amino silicones used in the composition according to the present invention can be chosen from:
  • T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C i -Cs alkyl group, and preferably methyl, or a C i -Cs alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
  • a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3 , and preferably 0,
  • b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ,
  • n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 1 0,
  • R 1 is a monovalent group o f formula -C q H 2q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the fo llowing groups :
  • R 2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C i -C 2 o alkyl group, and Q " represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • amino silicones corresponding to the definition o f formula (V) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (VI) below : in which R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3 ; a C1-C4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C 3 -Cs and preferably C 3 -C 6 alkylene group; m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
  • R, R' and R" which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group
  • A represents a C 3 alkylene group
  • m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000 approximately.
  • Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones" .
  • R, R' and R" which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" is an alkoxy group and A represents a C 3 alkylene group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • o f compounds mention may be made, inter alia, o f the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by the company Wacker.
  • R and R" which are different, each represent a C 1 - C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one o f the groups R or R" being an alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group and A representing a C 3 alkylene group .
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mo le ratio is preferably between 1 /0.8 and 1 / 1 . 1 and advantageously is equal to 1 /0.95.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average mo lecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • the mo lecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, ⁇ styragem co lumns, eluent THF, flow rate o f 1 mm/minute, 200 ⁇ of a so lution containing 0.5 % by weight of silicone in THF are inj ected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry) .
  • a product corresponding to the definition of formula (V) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (VII) below :
  • a compound of formula (V) is sold, for example, under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
  • R 3 represents a Ci-Cis monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl,
  • R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci-Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group, Q " is a halide ion, in particular chloride;
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
  • s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C 2 -Cis alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
  • R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a Ci-Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,
  • R8 which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C 2 -Ci8 alkenyl group or a group -R6-NHCOR7;
  • X " is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, each denote a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
  • R 5 denotes a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
  • one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to the amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride, and a nonionic surfactant of formula Ci 3 H 2 7-(OC 2 H 4 )i 2 -OH, known under the CTFA name Trideceth-12.
  • Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone o f formula (VII) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula : C 8 H i 7 -C 6 H 4 -(OCH 2 CH 2 )4o-OH, known under the CTFA name Octoxyno l-40, a second nonionic surfactant o f formula: C i 2 H 25 -(OCH 2 -CH 2 )6-OH, known under the CTFA name iso laureth-6, and propylene glycol.
  • Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning
  • Wacker-Belsil ADM LOG 1 Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Wacker-Belsil ADM LOG 1 , so ld by the company Wacker, comprising, in microemulsion form, an amodimethicone o f formula (VI) in combination with Trideceth-5 and Trideceth- 10.
  • the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from amino silicones corresponding to formula (V) and even more particularly from the amino silicones of formula (VI) or (VII) .
  • the amino silicone(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10%, better still from 0. 1 % to 5 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 3 % by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.7% to 1 .5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the amount of amino silicone(s) and, on the other hand, the amount o f hydrophobically modified cellulo se(s) ranges from 0. 1 to 100, even more preferentially from 1 to 20 and better still from 1 .5 to 1 0.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more plant oils .
  • o f plant oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially o f triglyceride oils o f plant origin, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rice bran oil, o live oil, grapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion-flower oil, musk rose oil, shea butter oil, palm oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening-primrose oil, millet, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, lemon oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • sunflower oil for example sunflower oil, corn
  • the plant oil consists of triglycerides whose total content of C I 8 fatty acids comprising one unsaturation and o f C I 8 fatty acids comprising two unsaturations (written C 1 8 : 1 + C 1 8 :2 according to the bio chemical or physio logical nomenclature o f fatty acids) represents more than 20% by weight o f the total content of fatty acids .
  • plant oil(s) mention may be made especially o f apricot oil, camellina oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rice bran oil and olive oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises two or more than two plant oils .
  • the content of plant oils in the composition o f the invention may range from 0.001 % to 20% and better still from 0.00 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the plant oil(s) are preferably present in an amount of less than 5 % by weight, more particularly less than 4% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.001 % to 3 % by weight, better still from 0.01 % to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.01 % to 1 .5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous .
  • anhydrous refers to a composition not containing any added water, i. e. a composition in which the water that may be present comes only from the water o f crystallization or of adsorption of the starting materials.
  • an anhydrous composition contains less than 5 % by weight of water and preferably less than 1 % by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is aqueous and comprises at least 30% by weight of water and preferably at least 45 % by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention is aqueous
  • its pH is generally between 2 and 9 and in particular between 3 and 8.
  • the pH is less than 7. Even more preferentially, it ranges from 3 to 6.
  • examples that may be mentioned include the organic acids already mentioned previously, or mineral acids .
  • mineral acid means any acid derived from a mineral compound.
  • mineral acids mention may be made o f hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acids and nitric acid.
  • Use may be made especially of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids .
  • mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids .
  • basifying agents examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkano lamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and derivatives thereo f, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds o f the fo llowing formula: in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C 1 - C 4 alkyl group; R a , Rb, R c and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 - C4 alkyl or C 1 - C4 hydroxyalkyl group .
  • the pH modifiers may be chosen from alkaline agents such as aqueous ammonia, monoethano lamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1 ,3 -propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, or else acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • alkaline agents such as aqueous ammonia, monoethano lamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1 ,3 -propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, or else acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives chosen from cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including pantheno l, water-soluble or liposo luble sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, so lubilizers, antioxidants, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, hair-lo ss counteractants and/or hair restorers, penetrants, fragrances, peptizers and preserving agents, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.
  • additives chosen from cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, ceramides, pseudoceramide
  • additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may be, in a non- limiting manner, in the form o f shampoos and hair conditioners, and body washing products, especially shower gels .
  • the present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, which consists in applying to keratin materials an effective amount of a composition as described above.
  • This application may or may not be followed by a rinsing operation.
  • the leave-on time o f the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better still from 10 seconds to 10 minutes .
  • the application o f the composition may take place in the presence or absence of heat.
  • the heating device may be a hairdryer, a hood dryer, a curling iron or a flat iron.
  • the heating temperature may be between 40°C and 220°C .
  • the present invention also relates to the use o f the cosmetic composition according to the invention for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body.
  • composition below according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
  • composition according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
  • compositions of Examples 1 and 2 were applied to locks of hair.
  • compositions of Examples 1 and 2 are stable and have a satisfactory viscosity for application to the hair.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cleansing the body or for conditioning the hair, comprising one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses with a content o f hydrophobic group(s) of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight o f the hydrophobically modified cellulose, one or more cationic surfactants and from 0.5 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight o f the composition, of one or more branched fatty alcohols. The invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body using such a composition, and also to a cosmetic use o f the said composition for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose, a cationic surfactant and a branched fatty alcohol
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more particular hydrophobically mo dified cellulo ses, one or more cationic surfactants and one or more branched fatty alcoho ls.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials using such a composition and also to a cosmetic use of the said composition.
In the field o f cosmetic haircare, the care o f keratin fibres subj ected to various external attacking factors is sought. Specifically, these fibres may be subj ect to attack of various origins, such as mechanical attack, for example linked to disentangling or blow-drying, or alternatively chemical attack, for example fo llowing dyeing or permanent-waving.
These attacks have consequences on the qualities of the keratin fibre and may lead to difficult disentangling at the time of washing the hair, on dry hair and/or wet hair, and also to degradation of the surface properties of the fibres, which become non-smooth and irregular at the surface, more particularly when the hair is dry.
Care products exist that can limit these phenomena. These products generally contain one or more agents for conditioning keratin fibres, such as cationic surfactants. However, although they can improve the cosmetic properties o f the hair, these compounds used in care products are not environmentally friendly
There is therefore a need to develop silicone-free cosmetic compositions which are less ecotoxic, or even non-ecotoxic, making it possible to condition the hair satisfactorily, or even more better than with the compositions of the prior art. The Applicant has now discovered, surprisingly, that the combination o f a particular hydrophobically mo dified cellulo se with at least one cationic surfactant and at least one branched fatty alcoho l makes it possible to achieve the obj ectives outlined above.
These particular cellulo ses are especially described in international patent application WO 2006/065 848.
One subj ect of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition for cleansing the body or for conditioning the hair, comprising one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses with a content of hydrophobic group(s) (degree of hydrophobization) o f greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulo se, one or more cationic surfactants and one or more branched fatty alcohols.
This particular combination proves to be particularly suitable for the hair and makes it possible to improve its cosmetic properties, and in particular to afford the hair better shaping and more vo lume, with very good disentangling and very good suppleness and sheen properties .
In addition, these care compositions are more eco-friendly, i. e . less ecotoxic with respect to the environment.
The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, which consists in applying a composition according to the invention to the keratin materials .
In particular, the composition according to the invention may be rinsed out or left in, optionally applied under the effect o f heat, and optionally combined with chemical and/or mechanical hair treatments .
Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are used for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body.
Other subj ects, characteristics, aspects and advantages o f the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range o f values are included in that range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
According to the invention, the composition comprises one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses with a content of hydrophobic group(s) of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, one or more cationic surfactants and from 0.5 to 20 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more branched fatty alcohols.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term
"hydrophobically modified cellulose" means a nonionic cellulose modified with one or more hydrophobic groups, and more particularly a nonionic cellulose ether modified with one or more hydrophobic groups.
Preferably, the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) used in the invention comprise a main chain consisting of a nonionic cellulose ether onto which are attached one or more hydrophobic groups chosen from:
1) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(C3-C6 alkyl) groups in which the alkoxy fragment is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably the 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl group,
2) C9-C30, preferably C10-C22, better still C12-C18, alkyl groups, and C6-C30 aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups. The aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups preferably comprise from 7, better still from 8, and even more preferentially from 10 carbon atoms, up to 22, even better still up to 18, and even more preferentially up to 16 carbon atoms,
3) and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the said hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) do not comprise any non-alkoxylated C3-8 alkyl groups.
Examples of alkoxy groups that may be mentioned include the 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(C3-C6 alkyl) group and hexyloxy, 2- ethylhexyloxy, octyloxy, cetyloxy and octadecyloxy groups. Examples o f a hydrophobic group of family 2) are in particular decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl, cetyl, octadecyl and methylphenyl groups, and even better still dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl and cetyl groups.
The hydrophobic group(s) may be attached to the cellulose ether chain via an ether, ester or urethane bond, the ether bond being particularly preferred.
Particularly preferably, the hydrophobic group(s) are chosen from:
) 3 -alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl groups in which the alkoxy fragment is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms,
2') C9 - C30 , preferably C 1 0 - C22 , better still C 1 2-C 1 8 , and even more preferentially C 1 2-C 1 6, alkyl groups,
3') and mixtures thereof,
and even better still from those of family 2 ' ) .
As examples o f nonionic cellulose ethers constituting the main chain, mention may be made especially o f hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), methylcellulose (MC) , hydroxypropylmethylcellulo se (HPMC), ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC) and methylhydroxyethylcellulose (MHEC) .
Hydroxyethylcellulo se is particularly preferred.
In the hydrophobically modified cellulose of the invention, all or some of the hydroxyl -OH groups of the cellulose have become -OR groups with R denoting in particular a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl group, or a hydrophobic group as defined above.
The content of hydrophobic group(s) (or degree o f hydrophobization) o f the hydrophobically modified cellulo ses of the invention corresponds to the ratio of the total weight of the hydrophobic groups to the total weight o f the hydrophobically modified cellulose, multiplied by 1 00.
This content is greater than 0.6% by weight, preferably greater than 0.8% by weight, and better still greater than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of hydrophobically modified cellulose . This content is preferentially less than 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of hydrophobically mo dified cellulose .
The hydrophobically mo dified cellulo se(s) used in the invention have a weight-average mo lecular weight ranging preferably from 1 00 000 to 2 000 000 , better still from 200 000 to 1 500 000 , and even more preferentially from 250 000 to 1 000 000.
Preferably, the hydrophobically mo dified cellulo se(s) used in the invention are chosen from cetylhydroxyethylcellulo ses with a content of hydrophobic group(s) o f greater than 0.6% by weight.
As examples o f hydrophobically mo dified cellulo ses, mentio n may be made o f the fo llowing compounds listed in Table 1 , which are commercially available from Hercules :
Table 1 cellulose (Mw) Hydrophobic Degree of Content of groups hydroxyethyl hydrophobic substitution groups (in mol) (weight%)
Cellulose 1 HEC- 300 000 Cetyl (Cie) 3.9 to 4.5 (i.e. 1.1 - 1.2%
Regular 4.2 on
average)
Cellulose 2 HEC- 1 000 000 Cetyl (Cie) 3.9 1.8%
Regular
Cellulose 3 HEC- 1 000 000 Cetyl (Cie) 3.4 2%
Block
Cellulose 4 HEC- 300 000 Mixture C12 4.1 2.7%
Block and Ci4
Cellulose 5 HEC- 300 000 Cetyl (Cie) 3.6 2.8-3.3%
Block The Cellulo se 1 compound is prepared according to the process described in Examples 1 to 1 0 of US 4 228 277, using a cetyl halide as reactant, and a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) having an appropriate mo lar degree of hydroxyethyl substitution.
The Cellulo se 2 compound is prepared according to the process described in Examples 1 to 10 of US 4 228 277, using a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) having an appropriate mo lar degree o f hydroxyethyl substitution.
The Cellulo se 3 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EP 1 858970, using a cetyl halide in place of the epoxide.
The Cellulo se 4 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EP 1 858970 , using a mixture of epoxide derivatives of dodecane and of tetradecane.
The Cellulo se 5 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EP 1 858970, using a cetyl halide in place of the epoxide.
The hydrophobically modified cellulo se(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0. 1 % 5 % by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, salts o f optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may in particular be made, as quaternary ammonium salts, for example, of:
- those corresponding to the following general formula (I) :
Figure imgf000008_0001
(I) in which:
the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkylacetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl,
X" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Preference is given, among the quaternary ammonium salts having formula (I), firstly, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or also to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk;
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (II) below:
Figure imgf000009_0001
(Π) in which:
Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives,
Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group,
X" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
R12 and Ri3 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo,
- diquaternary or triquaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula (III) below:
Figure imgf000009_0002
(in) in which: Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
Ri7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a),
Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R2o and R21 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
X" is an anionic counterion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
- quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester functions, for instance those of formula (IV) below:
Figure imgf000010_0001
(IV) in which:
R22 is chosen from Ci-C6 alkyl groups and Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
R23 is chosen from:
O
- the group R2— c— ,
- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C22
hydrocarbon-based groups R27,
- a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from:
o
- the group ¾— C— ,
- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C6
hydrocarbon-based groups R29,
- a hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or
1,
r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t,
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
X" is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion,
with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, then R25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X" is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function.
The anion X" is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IV) in which:
- P22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
- x and y are equal to 1,
- z is equal to 0 or 1,
- r, s and t are equal to 2,
- P23 is chosen from:
O
• the group R— c— ,
• methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups,
• a hydrogen atom,
- P25 is chosen from:
o
• the group ¾— C— , and
• a hydrogen atom,
- P24, P26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear. Among the compounds of formula (IV), examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, o f diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,
diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,
monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,
triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereo f. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil . When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification o f triethano lamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethano lamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification o f the methyl esters thereo f. This esterification is fo llowed by a quaternization by means o f an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glyco l chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are, for example, so ld under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 1 8 by Rewo-Witco .
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture o f quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts .
Examples o f such compounds that may be mentioned include distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and in particular the methosulfates .
Use may also be made o f the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 1 80. Use may also be made o f behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 1 3 1 .
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium and distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereo f, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate and distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
The cationic surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.05 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0. 1 % to 5 % by weight, better still from 0.5 %) to 5 % by weight and even better still from 0.5 %> to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cationic surfactant(s) are present in the compositions according to the invention such that the weight ratio between the amount of cationic surfactant(s), on the one hand, and the amount o f hydrophobically modified cellulose(s), on the other hand, preferably ranges from 0. 1 to 100 and is preferably greater than or equal to 1 , and better still ranges from 1 to 20 and more preferably from 1 .5 to 1 0.
In a preferred embo diment, the weight ratio between the amount of branched fatty alcoho l(s), on the one hand, and the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s), on the other hand, ranges from 1 to 20 and more preferably from 1 .5 to 1 0.
The branched fatty alcoho ls used in the invention preferably comprise from 1 0 to 100 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 1 6 to 40 and better still from 20 to 40 carbon atoms . They are neither glycerolated nor oxyalkylenated.
They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
They may be so lid or liquid, and preferably liquid.
The term " liquid fatty alcoho l" is intended to mean a non- glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcoho l, which is liquid at standard temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i. e. 1 .013 105 Pa) .
Examples o f branched fatty alcoho ls that may be mentioned include isostearyl alcoho l, 2-octyl- 1 -dodecanol, 2-butyloctano l, 2- hexyl- 1 -decanol, 2-tetradecyl- 1 -cetanol, 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2- tetradecyl- 1 -octadecano l, 2-tetradecyl- 1 -eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl- 1 - octadecanol, 2-hexadecyl- 1 -eicosanol and mixtures thereof.
Particularly preferably, the branched fatty alcoho l used in the invention is 2-octyl- 1 -dodecanol.
The branched fatty alcoho l(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.5 % to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 % to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5 % to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight o f the composition.
The composition may also comprise one or more silicones which are not chemically modified.
In the text hereinbelow, the term "silicone" is intended to denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer o f linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable mo lecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially o f a repetition o f main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The hydrocarbon-based radicals that are the most common are alkyl radicals, especially C i -C i o alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is Ci-Cio, and aryl radicals and in particular phenyl.
For the purpose of the present invention, the expression "silicone which is not chemically modified" means any linear or cyclic silicone which does not comprise in its structure any organofunctional groups, such as a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine, polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy, thiol, alkoxy, hydroxyl, acyloxyalkyl or hydroxyacylamino group.
The silicones which are not chemically modified, of the invention, comprise in their structure only siloxane groups substituted with alkyl or aryl groups.
The silicones that can be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i.e. dissolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emulsions. The polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Polyorganosiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
These polyoraganosiloxanes are preferably chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof, the alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and even better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl groups being a phenyl group
Even more preferentially, the alkyl groups are methyl groups.
The silicones may be volatile or non- volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold especially under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by the company Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by the company Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane so ld under the name Vo latile Silicone 7158 by the company Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 by the company Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made o f cyclocopolymers o f the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Vo latile Silicone FZ 3 109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure :
Figure imgf000017_0001
With D" : — Si - O— with D' : - Si - O—
CH3 ^8 ^17 Mention may also be made o f mixtures o f cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture o f octamethyl-cyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythrito l (50/50) and the mixture o f octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy- 1 , 1 ' -bis(2 ,2,2 ' ,2 ' ,3 ,3 ' - hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear vo latile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity o f less than or equal to 5 x 10"6 m2/s at 25 °C . An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane so ld in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76 , pp . 27-32 , Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .
When the silicones are non- vo latile, use is preferably made o f polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and mixtures thereof.
These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly o f polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5xl0"6 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C and preferably lxlO"5 to 1 m2/s. The viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil oils sold by the company Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000,
- the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia,
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 cSt,
- the Viscasil oils from the company General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company General Electric.
In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C2o)alkylsiloxanes.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from lxlO"5 to 5xl0"2m2/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- Silbione oils of the 70641 series from the company Rhodia,
- the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from the company Rhodia,
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from the company Dow Corning,
- the silicones of the PK series from the company Bayer, such as the product PK20,
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from the company Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000, - certain oils o f the SF series from the company General Electric, such as SF 1023 , SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average mo lecular weights o f between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a so lvent. This so lvent can be chosen from vo latile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made more particularly o f the fo llowing products :
- polydimethylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums.
Products that may be used more particularly are the fo llowing mixtures :
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average mo lecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
- the mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly o f a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity o f 20 m2/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity o f 5 >< 10"6m2/s. This product preferably comprises 15 % of gum SE 30 and 85 % of an oil SF 96.
The organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the fo llowing units : R2 S 1O2/2 , R3 S 1O 1 /2 , RS1O3/2 and S 1O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group . Among these products, the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1 - C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group .
Mention may be made, among these resins, of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those so ld under the names Silicone Fluid S S 4230 and S S 4267 by General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.
Mention may also be made o f the resins o f the trimethyl siloxysilicate type, sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21 - 5034 and X21 -5037 by Shin-Etsu.
The silicones which are not chemically modified, that are particularly preferred, are linear polydimethylsiloxanes comprising trimethylsilyl end groups or dimethicones .
When they are present, the silicone(s) which are not chemically modified are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential amounts ranging from 0.0 1 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0. 1 % to 5 % by weight and better still from 0.2% to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the amount of silicone(s) which are not chemically modified and, on the other hand, the amount of hydrophobically mo dified cellulo se(s) ranges from 0. 1 to 100, even more preferentially from 1 to 20 and better still from 1 .5 to 1 0.
The composition may also comprise one or more amino silicones.
The term "amino silicone" is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group .
Preferably, the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprise(s) in its (their) structure at least 4 silicon atoms. The amino silicones used in the composition according to the present invention can be chosen from:
(a) the compounds corresponding to formula (V) below: (R1 )a(T)3 -a-Si[OSi(T)2]n- [OSi(T)b(R1 )2_b] m-O Si(T)3 -a-(R1 )a
(V)
in which:
T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C i -Cs alkyl group, and preferably methyl, or a C i -Cs alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3 , and preferably 0,
b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ,
m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 1 0,
R1 is a monovalent group o f formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the fo llowing groups :
-N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N(R2)2,
-N(R2)2,
-N+(R2)3 Q ,
-N+(R2)(H)2 Q ,
-N+(R2)2HQ-,
-N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N+(R2)(H)2 Q ,
in which R2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C i -C2o alkyl group, and Q" represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition o f formula (V) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (VI) below :
Figure imgf000022_0001
in which R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH3; a C1-C4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C3-Cs and preferably C3-C6 alkylene group; m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
According to a first possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000 approximately. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones" .
According to a second possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" is an alkoxy group and A represents a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000. In this category o f compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, o f the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by the company Wacker.
According to a third possibility, R and R", which are different, each represent a C 1 - C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one o f the groups R or R" being an alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group and A representing a C 3 alkylene group . The hydroxy/alkoxy mo le ratio is preferably between 1 /0.8 and 1 / 1 . 1 and advantageously is equal to 1 /0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average mo lecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid WR® 1300 sold by the company Wacker.
It should be noted that the mo lecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, μ styragem co lumns, eluent THF, flow rate o f 1 mm/minute, 200 μΐ of a so lution containing 0.5 % by weight of silicone in THF are inj ected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry) .
A product corresponding to the definition of formula (V) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (VII) below :
(CH3)3
Figure imgf000024_0001
NH.
(VII) in which n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (V).
Such compounds are described, for example, in patent EP 95238. A compound of formula (V) is sold, for example, under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
(b) the compounds corresponding to formula (VIII) below:
Figure imgf000024_0002
in which:
R3 represents a Ci-Cis monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl,
R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci-Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group, Q" is a halide ion, in particular chloride;
r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
Such compounds are described more particularly in patent US 4 185 087.
A compound falling within this category is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56; c) quaternary ammonium silicones especially of formula (IX):
Figure imgf000025_0001
in which:
R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C2-Cis alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a Ci-Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,
R8, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C2-Ci8 alkenyl group or a group -R6-NHCOR7;
X" is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0530974.
d) the amino silicones of formula (X):
Figure imgf000026_0001
(CmH2m)
NH0
(X) in which:
- Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, each denote a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
- R5 denotes a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
When these compounds are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
By way of example, use may be made of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to the amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride, and a nonionic surfactant of formula Ci3H27-(OC2H4)i2-OH, known under the CTFA name Trideceth-12.
Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone o f formula (VII) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula : C8H i 7-C6H4-(OCH2CH2)4o-OH, known under the CTFA name Octoxyno l-40, a second nonionic surfactant o f formula: C i 2H25 -(OCH2-CH2)6-OH, known under the CTFA name iso laureth-6, and propylene glycol.
Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Wacker-Belsil ADM LOG 1 , so ld by the company Wacker, comprising, in microemulsion form, an amodimethicone o f formula (VI) in combination with Trideceth-5 and Trideceth- 10.
Other amino silicones can be used in the context of the invention, such as the product referenced in the CTFA dictionary under the name Polysilicone-9.
Preferably, the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from amino silicones corresponding to formula (V) and even more particularly from the amino silicones of formula (VI) or (VII) .
When they are present, the amino silicone(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10%, better still from 0. 1 % to 5 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 3 % by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.7% to 1 .5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the amount of amino silicone(s) and, on the other hand, the amount o f hydrophobically modified cellulo se(s) ranges from 0. 1 to 100, even more preferentially from 1 to 20 and better still from 1 .5 to 1 0.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more plant oils .
As examples o f plant oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially o f triglyceride oils o f plant origin, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rice bran oil, o live oil, grapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion-flower oil, musk rose oil, shea butter oil, palm oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening-primrose oil, millet, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, lemon oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, and mixtures thereof.
In one preferred variant of the invention, the plant oil consists of triglycerides whose total content of C I 8 fatty acids comprising one unsaturation and o f C I 8 fatty acids comprising two unsaturations (written C 1 8 : 1 + C 1 8 :2 according to the bio chemical or physio logical nomenclature o f fatty acids) represents more than 20% by weight o f the total content of fatty acids .
As particularly preferred plant oil(s), mention may be made especially o f apricot oil, camellina oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rice bran oil and olive oil, and mixtures thereof.
In one variant of the invention, the composition comprises two or more than two plant oils .
The content of plant oils in the composition o f the invention may range from 0.001 % to 20% and better still from 0.00 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
When they are present, the plant oil(s) are preferably present in an amount of less than 5 % by weight, more particularly less than 4% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.001 % to 3 % by weight, better still from 0.01 % to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.01 % to 1 .5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous .
The term " anhydrous" refers to a composition not containing any added water, i. e. a composition in which the water that may be present comes only from the water o f crystallization or of adsorption of the starting materials. In any event, an anhydrous composition contains less than 5 % by weight of water and preferably less than 1 % by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous and comprises at least 30% by weight of water and preferably at least 45 % by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
When the composition of the invention is aqueous, its pH is generally between 2 and 9 and in particular between 3 and 8. Preferably, the pH is less than 7. Even more preferentially, it ranges from 3 to 6.
It may be adjusted to the desired value by means o f acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetics for this type o f application, or alternatively using standard buffer systems .
Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include the organic acids already mentioned previously, or mineral acids .
The term "mineral acid" means any acid derived from a mineral compound. Among the mineral acids, mention may be made o f hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acids and nitric acid.
Use may be made especially of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids .
Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkano lamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and derivatives thereo f, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds o f the fo llowing formula:
Figure imgf000029_0001
in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C 1 - C 4 alkyl group; Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 - C4 alkyl or C 1 - C4 hydroxyalkyl group .
Preferably, the pH modifiers may be chosen from alkaline agents such as aqueous ammonia, monoethano lamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1 ,3 -propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, or else acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.
The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives chosen from cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including pantheno l, water-soluble or liposo luble sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, so lubilizers, antioxidants, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, hair-lo ss counteractants and/or hair restorers, penetrants, fragrances, peptizers and preserving agents, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.
These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
The compositions according to the invention may be, in a non- limiting manner, in the form o f shampoos and hair conditioners, and body washing products, especially shower gels .
The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, which consists in applying to keratin materials an effective amount of a composition as described above.
This application may or may not be followed by a rinsing operation.
When the application of the composition is fo llowed by rinsing, the leave-on time o f the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better still from 10 seconds to 10 minutes .
Whether in rinse-out mode or leave-in mo de, the application o f the composition may take place in the presence or absence of heat. The heating device may be a hairdryer, a hood dryer, a curling iron or a flat iron. The heating temperature may be between 40°C and 220°C .
The present invention also relates to the use o f the cosmetic composition according to the invention for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body.
The examples that fo llow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
In the fo llowing examples, all the amounts are shown as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
Example 1 :
The composition below according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
Ingredients Amount in weight%
Cellulo se 1 ( 1 ) 0.5
2-Octyl- l -dodecanol 2
Cetearyl alcoho l 3.5
Distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium
2.8 AM methosulfate ^2-*
Caprylyl glycol 0.2
Benzoic acid 0. 15
Fragrance 0.4
Water qs 100
AM = Active material
as defined in Table 1
so ld under the name Dehyquart F 175 by the company Cognis, at 70% by weight of active material
Example 2 :
Another composition according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
Ingredients Amount in weight%
Cellulose 1 (1) 0.5
2-Octyl-l-dodecanol 2
Cetyl alcohol 3
Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride ^2-* 1.42 AM
Polyethylene glycol -180 (PEG-180) 2
Cetyl esters (3) 0.25
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (4) 0.15
Chlorhexidine dihydrochloride 0.02
Fragrance 0.4
Water qs 100
AM = Active material
(1) as defined in Table 1
(2) sold under the name Genamin KDMP by the company Clariant, at 80% by weight of active material
(3) Myristyl/cetyl/stearyl myristate/palmitate/stearate mixture sold under the name Crodamol MS PA by the company Croda
(4) sold under the name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol
The compositions of Examples 1 and 2 were applied to locks of hair.
An expert found that the compositions of Examples 1 and 2 are stable and have a satisfactory viscosity for application to the hair.
They also have good working qualities such as application and rinseability. The cosmetic properties of the hair are very good. Very easy disentangling, a volume effect and easy shaping are obtained.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for cleansing the body or for conditioning the hair, comprising one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses with a content of hydrophobic group(s) of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, one or more cationic surfactants and from 0.5 to 20 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more branched fatty alcohols.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) with a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight have a content of hydrophobic group(s) of greater than 0.8%> by weight, more preferentially greater than 1% by weight and preferentially less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the said hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) comprise a main chain consisting of a nonionic cellulose ether onto which are attached one or more hydrophobic groups chosen from:
1) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(C3-C6 alkyl) groups in which the alkoxy fragment is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably the 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl group,
2) C9-C30, preferably C10-C22 and better still C12-C18 alkyl groups, and C6-C30 aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups.
3) and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) do not comprise any non-alkoxylated C3-8 alkyl groups.
5. Composition according to Claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the hydrophobic group(s) are chosen from: ) 3 -alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl groups in which the alkoxy fragment is linear or branched and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms,
2') C9 - C30 , preferably C 1 0 - C22 , better still C 1 2-C 1 8 , and even more preferentially C 1 2-C 1 6, alkyl groups,
3') and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulo se(s) having a content of hydrophobic group(s) of greater than 0.6% by weight have a weight-average mo lecular weight ranging from 100 000 to 2 000 000, better still from 200 000 to 1 500 000, and even more preferentially from 250 000 to 1 000 000.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulo se(s) are chosen from cetylhydroxyethylcellulo ses with a content o f hydrophobic group(s) of greater than 0.6%> by weight.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulo se(s) are present in proportions ranging from 0.0 1 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0. 1 % to 5 % by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
a) quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I) below :
Figure imgf000035_0001
in which the groups Rs to Rn , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
b) quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (II) below:
Figure imgf000036_0001
(Π) in which Ri2 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates.
c) quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, of formula (III) below:
R16— N 2X"
R
Figure imgf000036_0002
(in) in which Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms; R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a); Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R2o and R21 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates and (Ci- C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
d) quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester functions, preferably of formula (IV) below:
Figure imgf000037_0001
(IV) in which:
R22 is chosen from Ci-C6 alkyl groups and Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
R23 is chosen from:
O
- the group R2e— C—
- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon- based groups R27,
- a hydrogen atom,
R25 is chosen from:
O
- the group R2 C
- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29,
- a hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 0,
x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 1 0,
X" is a simp le or complex, organic or mineral anion,
with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 1 5 , that when x is 0, then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, then R25 denotes R2 g .
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate and distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
1 1 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactants are present in proportions ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0. 1 to 5 % by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5 % by weight and even better still from 0.5 to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight o f the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are present in the compositions according to the invention such that the weight ratio between the amount o f cationic surfactant(s), on the one hand, and the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s), on the other hand, ranges from 0. 1 to 100, and is preferably greater than or equal to 1 , and better still ranges from 1 to 20 and more preferably from 1 .5 to 10.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched fatty alcohol(s) comprise from 1 0 to 100 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 16 to 40 and even better still from 20 to 40 carbon atoms.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched fatty alcoho l(s) are chosen from isostearyl alcoho l, 2-octyl- 1 -dodecanol, 2-butyl-octanol, 2-hexyl- l - decano l, 2-tetradecyl- l -cetanol, 2-dodecyl hexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl- 1 -octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl- 1 -eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl- 1 -octadecano l and 2-hexadecyl- 1 -eicosanol, and mixtures thereof, and preferably 2- octyl- 1 -do decanol.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched fatty alcoho l(s) are present in proportions ranging from 0.5 % to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5 % to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, characterized in that it consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one o f Claims 1 to 15 and then in optionally rinsing it out after an optional leave-on time, in the presence or absence of heat.
17. Use o f the cosmetic composition according to one o f Claims 1 to 15 , for conditioning the hair or washing/cleansing the body.
PCT/EP2012/076122 2011-12-19 2012-12-19 Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose, a cationic surfactant and a branched fatty alcohol WO2013092692A2 (en)

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