WO2013092608A2

WO2013092608A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose, a sulfated or sulfonated anionic surfactant and a branched fatty alcohol

Info

Publication number: WO2013092608A2
Application number: PCT/EP2012/075985
Authority: WO
Inventors: Valérie Viravau; Claudine PERONA
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2011-12-19
Filing date: 2012-12-18
Publication date: 2013-06-27
Also published as: WO2013092608A3; FR2984159A1; FR2984159B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cleansing the body or for conditioning the hair, comprising: (i) one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses with a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, (ii) one or more anionic surfactants bearing sulfate and/or sulfonate group(s), and (iii) one or more branched fatty alcohols. The invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body using such a composition, and also to a cosmetic use of the said composition for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose, a sulfated or sulfonated anionic surfactant and a branched fatty alcohol

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair, comprising one or more particular hydrophobically modified celluloses, one or more anionic surfactants bearing sulfate and/or sulfonate group(s), and one or more branched fatty alcohols.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials using such a composition and also to a cosmetic use of the said composition.

In the field of cosmetic haircare, the care of keratin fibres subjected to various external attacking factors is sought. Specifically, these fibres may be subject to attack of various origins, such as mechanical attack, for example linked to disentangling or blow-drying, alternatively chemical attack, for example following dyeing or permanent- waving.

These attacks have consequences on the qualities of the keratin fibre and may lead to difficult disentangling at the time of washing the hair, on dry hair and/or wet hair, and also to degradation of the surface properties of the fibres, which become non-smooth and irregular at the surface, more particularly when the hair is dry.

Products exist which make it possible to wash the hair while at the same time conditioning it, known as conditioning shampoos, and which make it possible to limit these phenomena. These products generally contain, in addition to anionic surfactants, one or more agents for conditioning keratin fibres, such as cationic polymers. These compounds are deposited on the keratin fibres and make it possible to improve the condition of the fibres, and also the cosmetic properties thereof.

However, although these compounds can make keratin fibres supple and improve the disentangling and smoothness of the hair, when they are used in conditioning shampoos, they are not entirely environmentally friendly.

There is therefore a need to develop cosmetic compositions which are less ecotoxic, or even non-ecotoxic, while at the same time making it possible to condition the hair satisfactorily, or even more successfully than with the compositions of the prior art. The Applicant has now discovered, surprisingly, that the combination of a particular hydrophobically modified cellulose with at least one branched fatty alcohol, in a washing base comprising at least one anionic surfactant bearing sulfate and/or sulfonate group(s), makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above.

These specific celluloses are in particular described in international patent application WO 2006/065 848.

One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition for cleansing the body or for conditioning the hair, comprising:

(i) one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses with a content of hydrophobic groups (or degree of hydrophobization) of greater than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose,

(ii) one or more anionic surfactants comprising at least one group -(Y)_n-S03X with Y denoting an oxygen atom and X denoting a hydrogen atom or a mineral or organic cation and n denoting 0 or 1 , and

(iii) one or more branched fatty alcohols.

This particular combination proves to be particularly suitable for washing and caring for the hair, and made it possible to obtain improved cosmetic properties such as suppleness, shininess and a natural coating which avoids overloading by multiple application. Great ease of shaping, greater volume and a soft and uniform feel are moreover noted.

In addition, these shampoo and care compositions are more environmentally friendly, i.e. less environmentally ecotoxic.

The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, which consists in applying to the hair or the body a composition according to the invention, followed by rinsing it out.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are used for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to

Moreover, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more". According to the invention, the composition comprises:

(ii) one or more anionic surfactants bearing sulfate and/or sulfonate group(s), and (iii) one or more branched fatty alcohols.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophobically modified cellulose" means a nonionic cellulose modified with one or more hydrophobic groups, and more particularly a nonionic cellulose ether modified with one or more hydrophobic groups.

Preferably, the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) (i) used in the invention comprise a main chain consisting of a nonionic cellulose ether onto which are attached one or more hydrophobic groups chosen from:

1) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(C3-C6 alkyl) groups in which the alkoxy fragment is linear or branched and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably the 3-alkoxy-

2-hydroxypropyl group,

2) C9-C30, preferably C10-C22 and better still C₁₂-C₁₈ alkyl groups, and C6-C30 aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups. The aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups preferably comprise from 7, better still from 8, and even more preferentially from 10 carbon atoms, and up to 22, even better still up to 18 and even more preferentially up to 16 carbon atoms,

3) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the said hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) do not comprise any non-alkoxylated C3-8 alkyl groups.

Examples of alkoxy groups that may be mentioned include the 3-alkoxy-2- hydroxy(C3-C₆ alkyl) group and hexyloxy, 2-ethylhexyloxy, octyloxy, cetyloxy and octadecyloxy groups.

Examples of a hydrophobic group of family 2) are in particular decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl, cetyl, octadecyl and methylphenyl groups, and even better still dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl and cetyl groups.

The hydrophobic group(s) may be attached to the cellulose ether chain via an ether, ester or urethane bond, the ether bond being particularly preferred.

Particularly preferably, the hydrophobic group(s) are chosen from: Γ) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl groups in which the alkoxy fragment is linear or branched and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms,

2') C9-C30, preferably C10-C22, better still C₁₂-C₁₈, and even more preferentially C12-C16, alkyl groups,

3') and mixtures thereof,

and even better still from those of family 2').

As examples of nonionic cellulose ethers constituting the main chain, mention may be made especially of hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), methylcellulose (MC), hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC) and methylhydroxyethylcellulose (MHEC). Hydroxyethylcellulose is particularly preferred.

In the hydrophobically modified cellulose of the invention, all or some of the hydroxyl -OH groups of the cellulose have become -OR groups with R denoting in particular a methyl, ethyl, hydroxy ethyl or hydroxypropyl group, or a hydrophobic group as defined above.

The content of hydrophobic groups (or degree of hydrophobization) of the hydrophobically modified celluloses of the invention corresponds to the ratio of the total weight of the hydrophobic groups to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, multiplied by 100.

This content is greater than 0.6% by weight, preferably greater than 0.8% by weight, and better still greater than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of hydrophobically modified cellulose. This content is preferentially less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of hydrophobically modified cellulose.

The hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) used in the invention have a weight-average molecular weight ranging preferably from 100 000 to 2 000 000, better still from 200 000 to 1 500 000, and even more preferentially from 250 000 to 1 000 000.

Preferably, the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) used in the invention are chosen from cetylhydroxyethylcelluloses with a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight. Examples of hydrophobically modified celluloses that may be mentioned include the following compounds listed in Table 1, which are commercially available from Hercules:

Table 1

The Cellulose 1 compound is prepared according to the process described in Examples 1 to 10 of US 4 228 277, using a cetyl halide as reactant, and a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) having an appropriate molar degree of hydroxyethyl substitution.

The Cellulose 2 compound is prepared according to the process described in Examples 1 to 10 of US 4 228 277, using a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) having an appropriate molar degree of hydroxyethyl substitution.

The Cellulose 3 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EP 1858970, using a cetyl halide in place of the epoxide. The Cellulose 4 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EP1858970, using a mixture of epoxide derivatives of dodecane and of tetradecane.

The Cellulose 5 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EP1858970, using a cetyl halide in place of the epoxide.

The hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential amounts ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants

(ii) comprising at least one group -(Y)_n-S03X with Y denoting an oxygen atom and X denoting a hydrogen atom or a mineral or organic cation and n denoting 0 or 1.

When n = 1, the surfactants are anionic surfactants bearing sulfate group(s).

When n = 0, the surfactants are anionic surfactants bearing sulfonate group(s).

The same anionic surfactant molecule according to the invention may comprise at least one group with n = 0 and at least one group with n = 1.

The anionic surfactants (ii) are also referred to in the present invention as anionic surfactants bearing sulfate and/or sulfonate group(s) (ii).

The anionic surfactant(s) bearing sulfate and/or sulfonate group(s) (ii) that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen especially from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefm sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylsulfosuccinates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds may be mono- or polyoxyethylenated, and may comprise up to 50 oxyethylene units.

These compounds may be used in acid form. However, these compounds are generally employed in the form of salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts. Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

Among the anionic surfactants bearing sulfate and/or sulfonate group(s) that are mentioned, use is preferably made of (C6-C₂4)alkyl sulfates, (C6-C₂4)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.

In particular, use is preferably made of (Ci₂-C₂o)alkyl sulfates, (C₁₂- C₂o)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline- earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds. Better still, ammonium lauryl sulfate is preferably used.

The anionic surfactant(s) bearing sulfate and/or sulfonate group(s) (ii) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% by weight and more particularly from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The branched fatty alcohols (iii) used in the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 100 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 16 to 40 and better still from 20 to 40 carbon atoms. They are neither glycerolated nor oxyalkenylated.

They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non- aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

They maybe solid or liquid, and preferably liquid.

The term "liquid fatty alcohol" is intended to mean a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

Examples of branched fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include isostearyl alcohol, le 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2- tetradecyl-l-cetanol, 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl- 1-eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-l-octadecanol, 2-hexadecyl-l-eicosanol and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferably, the branched fatty alcohol used in the invention is 2- octyl- 1 -dodecanol. The branched fatty alcohol(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants other than those outlined above, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, more particularly chosen from amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants.

The anionic surfactants other than those indicated above, i.e. other than the anionic surfactants (ii), may be chosen especially from the following compounds: acylglutamates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl phosphates and alkyl ether phosphates; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. These compounds may be mono- or polyoxyethylenated, and may comprise up to 50 oxyethylene units.

These compounds are generally employed in the form of salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts.

Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

As examples of anionic surfactants other than the anionic surfactants (ii), mention may be made especially of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, laureth-5 -carboxylic acid and sodium dicetyl phosphate.

When they are present, the amount of the anionic surfactant(s) other than the anionic surfactants (ii) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total amount of anionic surfactants in the compositions of the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 30% by weight, better still from 3% to 25% by weight and more particularly from 4% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably non- silicone, which may be used in the present invention may especially be derivatives of optionally quatemized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C₂o)alkylbetaines, (C₈-C₂o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C₈- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-

C₈)alkylsulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quatemized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (Al) and (A2) below:

R_aCONHCH₂CH₂N⁺(R_b)(R_c)(CH₂COO^") (Al) in which:

R_a represents a C₁₀-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid

R_aCOOH preferably present in hydro lysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

R_b represents a β-hydroxy ethyl group; and

R_c represents a carboxymethyl group;

and

Ra'CONHCH₂CH2N(B)(B') (A2) in which:

B represents the group -CH₂CH₂OX',

B' represents the group -(CH₂)_ZY', with z = 1 or 2,

X* represents the group -CH₂COOH, CH₂COOZ',

-CH₂CH₂COOH, -CH₂CH₂COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', the group

-CH₂CHOHSO₃H or the group -CH₂CHOHS0₃Z',

Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,

R_a' represents a C₁₀-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_a'COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C₁₇ and its iso form, or an unsaturated C₁₇ group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

An example that may be mentioned is the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, and (C₈- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from disodium cocoamphodiacetate, cocamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.

When they are present, the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be used in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp. 1 16- 178. They are especially chosen from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, optionally oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkyl glucoside esters, derivatives of N-alkylglucamine and of N-acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamides and amine oxides.

Unless otherwise mentioned, the term "fatty" compound (for example a fatty acid) denotes a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and even better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

The mono- or polyglycosides that may be used in the invention are well known and may be represented more particularly by the general formula (I) below:

in which:

Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl group, comprising from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

R₂ represents an alkylene group comprising from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 4, and

v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

Mono- or polyglycosides that are preferred in the present invention are (C₈- Cis)alkyl mono- or polyglycosides and are compounds of formula (I) in which:

Ri more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and even more particularly is equal to

0,

G may denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose.

The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v in formula (I), may range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferentially from 1.1 to 1.5.

The glycoside bonds between the sugar units are of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.

Examples of compounds of formula (I) are especially caprylylglucoside, decylglucoside or caprylglucoside, laurylglucoside, cetearylglucoside and cocoglucoside, and mixtures thereof. These preferred compounds of formula (I) are especially represented by the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 110 or Oramix CG 110 and Triton CG 312 or Oramix® NS 10, the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or those sold by the company Chem Y under the name AGIO LK.

It is also possible to use, for example, (C8-Ci6)alkyl-l,4-polyglucoside as an aqueous 53% solution, sold by the company Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

Among the cited nonionic surfactants, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides are preferably used.

When they are present, the amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20%> by weight and better still from 0.1 % to 10%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When they are present, the total amount of surfactants, chosen from the anionic surfactants (i) and those other than (i), the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and the nonionic surfactants, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 40% by weight and better still from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise one or more cationic polymers.

The term "cationic polymer" is intended to mean any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, which are preferably non-siliceous.

The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention may be selected from all of those already known per se to enhance the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, these being, in particular, the polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.

The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers used have a weight-average molecular weight of more than 10⁵, preferably more than 10⁶ and more preferably of between 10⁶ and 10⁸. Among the cationic polymers, mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type. These are known products.

The polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type that may be used in the composition of the present invention are those described in French patents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.

Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

(1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formula (II), (III), (IV) or (V) below:

5 — CH₂— C

CH₂ - C—

O =

NH NH

I

X

A A

N R₆ N— R,

\

FL R„ R,

(IV) (V) in which: P 3 and P4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl group,

P 5, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a C¾ group,

A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

Re, P 7, R-8, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

X^" denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from co monomers which may be chosen from the family of acryl amides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with lower (d-C₄) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, described, for example, in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl- ammonium methosulfate sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, such as, for example, Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573. - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,

- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP, and

- crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C₄)alkyltri(Ci-C₄)alkyl- ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefmically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil can be used more particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. A crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer (INCI name: Polyquaternium-37), for example as a dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester, can also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba;

(2) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxy alky lene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361 ;

(3) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine. These polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide. These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508;

(4) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylamino hydroxy alky ldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are especially described in French patent 1 583 363.

Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz;

(5) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, the mole ratio of the polyalkylenepolyamine to the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1, the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3 227 615 and 2 961 347.

Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/ epoxypropyl/ diethylenetriamine copolymer;

(6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VI) or (VII):

R 10 (VII) in which formulae: k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R₁₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; Rio and Rn , independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl group, or else Rio and Rn may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, denote heterocyclic groups, such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Y^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are in particular described in French patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.

Rio and Rn , independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and its homologues of low weight-average molecular weights, and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name Merquat 550; (7) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeating units corresponding to the formula (VIII):

in which:

Ri3, Ri4, Ri5 and Ri₆, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively Rn, Ri₄, R15 and Ri₆, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, Ri₄, R15 and Ri₆ represent a linear or branched Ci-C₆ alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-Rn-D or -CO- NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group,

Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated and may contain, joined to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X^" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid,

Ai, Ri3 and R15 may form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring. In addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a group (CH₂)_n-CO-D-OC-(CH₂)_p-,

n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,

in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae:

-(CH₂-CH₂-0)_x -CH₂-CH₂-, -[CH2-CH(CH₃)-0]_y-CH2-CH(CH₃)-,

in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization,

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative, c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -C¾-

d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X^" is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers have a number-average molecular weight generally of between 1 000 and 100 000.

Polymers of this type are especially described in French patents 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271 , 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462, 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904, 4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and 4 027 020.

Use may more particularly be made of polymers that are formed from repeating units corresponding to formula (IX):

in which Ris, R19, R20 and R21 , which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X^" is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

One particularly preferred compound of formula (IX) is that for which Ris, Ri9, R20 and R21 represent a methyl group and r = 3, s = 6 and X = CI, which is called Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

(8) Poly quaternary ammonium polymers formed from units of formula (X): —

(X) in which:

R22, R23, R24 and R25, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or - CH₂CH₂(OCH₂CH₂)_pOH group,

where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that

R₂2, R23, R24 and R₂₅ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

t and u, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 1 to 6, v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents

-CH₂-CH₂-0-CH₂-CH₂-.

Such compounds are described in particular in patent application EP-A-

122 324.

Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADl, Mirapol® AZl and Mirapol® 175, sold by the company Miranol;

(9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and/or of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 and Luviquat Excellence by the company BASF.

(10) cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

Among cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums. The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French patent 1 492 597. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxy ethyl cellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

The cationic cellulose copolymers or the cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt such as 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride are used, for example;

(11) Cationic proteins or cationic protein hydro lysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

The cationic proteins or protein hydro lyzates are, in particular, chemically modified polypeptides bearing quaternary ammonium groups at the end of the chain, or grafted thereon. Their molecular weight may range, for example, from 1500 to 10 000 and in particular from 2000 to 5000 approximately. Among these compounds, mention may in particular be made of:

- collagen hydrolysates bearing triethylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name Quat-Pro E by the company Maybrook and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate;

- collagen hydrolysates bearing trimethylammonium chloride and trimethylstearylammonium chloride groups, which are sold under the name Quat-Pro S by the company Maybrook and are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen;

- animal protein hydrolysates bearing trimethylbenzylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name Crotein BTA by the company Croda and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein; - protein hydro lysates bearing quaternary ammonium groups on the polypeptide chain, the said ammonium groups containing at least one alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Among these protein hydrolysates, mention may be made, inter alia, of:

- Croquat L, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain a C₁₂ alkyl group;

- Croquat M, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain C₁₀-C₁₈ alkyl groups;

- Croquat S, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain a C₁₈ alkyl group;

- Crotein Q, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

These various products are sold by the company Croda.

Other quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example, those corresponding to the formula (XI):

in which X^" is an anion of an organic or inorganic acid, A denotes a protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R2 denotes a lipophilic group containing up to 30 carbon atoms, and R30 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of the products sold by the company Inolex, under the name Lexein QX 3000, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Cocotrimonium Collagen Hydrolysate.

Mention may also be made of quaternized plant proteins such as wheat, corn or soybean proteins, for instance quaternized wheat proteins. Mention may be made of those sold by the company Croda under the names Hydrotriticum WQ or QM, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Cocodimonium hydrolysed wheat protein, Hydrotriticum QL, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat protein, or else Hydrotriticum QS, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein.

Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from those of families (1), (6), (9) and (10).

Among these preferred cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is more particularly preferred to use cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, such as the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and of methylvinylimidazolinium chloride sold under the name Luviquat Excellence by BASF, cationic polysaccharides, more particularly guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, under the name Jaguar C13S by the company Rhodia or cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, for instance the cellulose ethers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR 400 LT by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical), and crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C₄)alkyltri(Ci- C₄)alkylammonium salts, such as the crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name Salcare SC95 by the company Ciba, and mixtures thereof.

When they are present, the cationic polymer(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise one or more silicones which are not chemically modified.

In the text hereinbelow, the term "silicone" is intended to denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The hydrocarbon-based radicals that are the most common are alkyl radicals, especially Ci-Cio alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is Ci-Cio, and aryl radicals and in particular phenyl.

For the purpose of the present invention, the expression "silicone which is not chemically modified" means any linear or cyclic silicone which does not comprise in its structure any organofunctional groups, such as a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine, polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy, thiol, alkoxy, hydroxyl, acyloxyalkyl or hydroxyacylamino group.

The silicones which are not chemically modified, of the invention, comprise in their structure only siloxane groups substituted with alkyl or aryl groups.

The silicones that can be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i.e. dissolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emulsions. The polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Polyorganosiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's

Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.

These polyoraganosiloxanes are preferably chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof, the alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and even better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl groups being a phenyl group

Even more preferentially, the alkyl groups are methyl groups.

The silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.

These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold especially under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by the company Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by the company Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7158 by the company Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 by the company Rhodia, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure:

With D" : — Si - O— with D' : - Si - O— ά

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethyl-cyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)- neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x 10^"6 m²/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.

When the silicones are non- volatile, use is preferably made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and mixtures thereof.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5x 10^"6 to 2.5 m²/s at 25°C and preferably l x lO^"5 to 1 m²/s. The viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: - the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil oils sold by the company Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000,

- the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia,

- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt,

- the Viscasil oils from the company General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company General Electric.

In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C2o)alkylsiloxanes.

The poly alky larylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 x 10^"5 to 5x 10^"2m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

- Silbione oils of the 70 641 series from the company Rhodia,

- the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from the company Rhodia,

- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from the company Dow

Corning,

- the silicones of the PK series from the company Bayer, such as the product

PK20,

- the silicones of the PN and PH series from the company Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PHI 000,

- certain oils of the SF series from the company General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made more particularly of the following products:

- polydimethylsiloxane gums,

- polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums, - polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane gums,

- polydimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane gums,

- poly dimethy lsilo xane/ dipheny lsilo xane/methy lvinylsilo xane gums .

Products that may be used more particularly are the following mixtures: - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number- average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,

- the mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m²/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5^x 10^~6m²/s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.

The organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R2S1O2/2, R3S1O1/2, RS1O3/2 and S1O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.

Mention may be made, among these resins, of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by General Electric, which are silicones of dimethy 1/trimethy lsilo xane structure.

Mention may also be made of the resins of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type, sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by Shin-Etsu.

The silicones which are not chemically modified, that are particularly preferred, are linear polydimethylsiloxanes comprising trimethylsilyl end groups or dimethicones.

When they are present, the silicone(s) which are not chemically modified are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential amounts ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the amount of silicone(s) which are not chemically modified and, on the other hand, the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) ranges from 0.1 to 100, even more preferentially from 1 to 20 and better still from 1.5 to 10.

The composition may also comprise one or more amino silicones.

The term "amino silicone" is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprise(s) in its (their) structure at least 4 silicon atoms.

The amino silicones used in the composition according to the present invention can be chosen from:

(a) the compounds corresponding to formula (XII) below:

(R¹)_a(T)₃_a-Si[OSi(T)₂]_n-[OSi(T)_b(R¹)₂__b]_m-OSi(T)₃_a-(R¹)a (XII) in which:

T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or Ci-Cs alkyl group, and preferably methyl, or a Ci-Cs alkoxy, preferably methoxy,

a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ,

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10,

R¹ is a monovalent group of formula -C_qH_2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quatemized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-N(R²)-CH₂-CH₂-N(R²)₂,

-N(R²)₂,

-N⁺(R²)₃ Q ,

-N⁺(R²)(H)₂ Q ,

-N⁺(R²)₂HQ-,

-N(R²)-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺(R²)(H)₂ Q , in which R may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C1-C20 alkyl group, and Q^" represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (XII) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (XIII) below:

NhL

(XIII) in which R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH₃; a C1-C4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C₃-Cs and preferably C₃-C₆ alkylene group; m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.

According to a first possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C₃ alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones".

According to a second possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" is an alkoxy group and A represents a C₃ alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 10⁶. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by the company Wacker.

According to a third possibility, R and R", which are different, each represent a C1 -C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" being an alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group and A representing a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously is equal to 1/0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight- average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid WR® 1300 sold by the company Wacker.

It should be noted that the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, μ styragem columns, eluent THF, flow rate of 1 mm/minute, 200 μΐ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).

A product corresponding to the definition of formula (XII) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (XIV) below:

(CH₃)₃

NH.

(XIV) in which n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (XII).

Such compounds are described, for example, in patent EP 95238. A compound of formula (XII) is sold, for example, under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.

(b) the compounds corresponding to formula (XV) below:

in which:

R represents a Ci-Cis monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl,

R⁴ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci-Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group,

Q^" is a halide ion, in particular chloride;

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to

8; s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from

20 to 50.

Such compounds are described more particularly in patent US 4 185 087. A compound falling within this category is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56;

c) quaternary ammonium silicones especially of formula (XVI):

in which:

R⁷, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C₂-Cis alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,

Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a Ci-Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,

R-8, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C₂-Cis alkenyl group or a group -R6-NHCOR₇;

X^" is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to

100.

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530

974.

d) the amino silicones of formula (XVII):

(C_mH_2m)

(XVII) in which:

- Ri, R₂, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, each denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,

- R₅ denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

- x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq./g. When these compounds are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.

By way of example, use may be made of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to the amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride, and a nonionic surfactant of formula Ci₃H₂₇- (OC₂H4)i₂-OH, known under the CTFA name Trideceth-12.

Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (XIV) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C₈Hi₇-C₆H₄-(OCH₂CH₂) ₀- OH, known under the CTFA name Octoxynol-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula: Ci₂H₂5-(OCH₂-CH₂)6-OH, known under the CTFA name isolaureth-6, and propylene glycol.

Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Wacker-Belsil ADM LOG 1 , sold by the company Wacker, comprising, in microemulsion form, an amodimethicone of formula (XIII) in combination with Trideceth-5 and Trideceth-10.

Other amino silicones can be used in the context of the invention, such as the product referenced in the CTFA dictionary under the name Polysilicone-9.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from amino silicones corresponding to formula (XII) and even more particularly from the amino silicones of formula (XIII) or (XIV).

When they are present, the amino silicone(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10%, better still from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5%> to 3% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the amount of amino silicone(s) and, on the other hand, the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) ranges from 0.1 to 100, even more preferentially from 1 to 20 and better still from 1.5 to 10.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more plant oils.

As examples of plant oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of triglyceride oils of plant origin, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rice bran oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion-flower oil, musk rose oil, shea butter oil, palm oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening-primrose oil, millet, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, lemon oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, and mixtures thereof.

In one preferred variant of the invention, the plant oil consists of triglycerides whose total content of CI 8 fatty acids comprising one unsaturation and of CI 8 fatty acids comprising two unsaturations (written CI 8: 1 + C18:2 according to the biochemical or physiological nomenclature of fatty acids) represents more than 20% by weight of the total content of fatty acids. As particularly preferred plant oil(s), mention may be made especially of apricot oil, camellina oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rice bran oil and olive oil, and mixtures thereof.

In one variant of the invention, the composition comprises two or more than two plant oils.

The content of plant oils in the composition of the invention may range from 0.001% to 20% and better still from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When they are present, the plant oil(s) are preferably present in an amount of less than 5%> by weight, more particularly less than 4%> by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.001% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" refers to a composition not containing any added water, i.e. a composition in which the water that may be present comes only from the water of crystallization or of adsorption of the starting materials. In any case, an anhydrous composition contains less than 5%> by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous and comprises at least 30% by weight of water and preferably at least 45% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition of the invention is aqueous, its pH is generally between 2 and 9 and in particular between 3 and 8. Preferably, the pH is less than 7. Even more preferentially, it ranges from 3 to 6.

It may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetics for this type of application, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.

Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include the organic acids already mentioned previously, or mineral acids.

The term "mineral acid" means any acid derived from a mineral compound. Among the mineral acids, mention may be made of hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acids and nitric acid. Use may be made especially of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of the following formula:

in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a

C1-C4 alkyl group; Ra, Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group.

Preferably, the pH modifiers may be chosen from alkaline agents such as aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3- propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, or from acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives chosen from ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, water-soluble or liposoluble sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, solubilizers, antioxidants, antidandruff agents, anti- seborrhoeic agents, hair-loss counteractants and/or hair restorers, penetrants, fragrances, peptizers, cationic surfactants, plant waxes and preserving agents, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention. The compositions according to the invention may be, in a non-limiting manner, in the form of shampoos and hair conditioners, and body washing products, especially shower gels.

The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, which consists in applying to the hair or the body an effective amount of a composition as described above, and in rinsing it off.

The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, or as conditioning shampoos.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention.

EXAMPLES In the following examples, all the amounts are shown as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1 :

The shampoo composition below according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.

Ingredients Amount in weight%

Cellulose 1 ⁽¹⁾ 0.5

2-Octyl- l -dodecanol 1

Ammonium lauryl sulfate ^ 1 1 .2 AM

Cocobetaine ^ 0.6 AM

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate ^ 1.5 AM

Hydroxypropyl guar

0.5

hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride ^

Glyco l distearate 2

Sodium benzoate 0.5

Salicylic acid 0.2

Sodium chloride 1

Fragrance 0.2

Water qs 100

Active material

as defined in Table 1.

sold under the trade name Empicol AL 30 by the company Huntsman, at 26.8% by weight of active material.

sold under the trade name Dehyton AB 30 by the company Cognis, at 30% by weight of active material.

sold under the trade name Miranol C2M Concentrate by the company Rhodia, at 31.5% by weight of active material.

sold under the trade name Jaguar- 162 by the company Rhodia.

Example 2:

Another shampoo composition according to the invention was prepared from the compounds indicated in the table below. Ingredients Amount in weight%

Cellulose 4 ⁽¹⁾ 0.5

2-Octyl- l -dodecanol 1

Ammonium lauryl sulfate ^ 1 1 .2 AM

Cocobetaine ^ 0.6 AM

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate ^ 1.5 AM

Hydroxypropyl guar

0.5

hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride ^

Glyco l distearate 2

Sodium benzoate 0.5

Salicylic acid 0.2

Sodium chloride 1

Fragrance 0.2

Water qs 100

Active material

as defined in Table 1.

sold under the trade name Dehyton AB 30 by the company Cognis, at 30 % by weight of active material.

sold under the trade name Jaguar- 162 by the company Rhodia.

An expert observed that the compositions of Examples 1 and 2 are stable and have a satisfactory viscosity for application to the hair.

The compositions of Examples 1 and 2 were applied to the hair and then rinsed out.

The hair is easy to disentangle, supple and shiny.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for cleansing the body or for conditioning the hair, comprising:

(i) one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses with a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose,

(iii) one or more branched fatty alcohols.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) with a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight have a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.8% by weight, more preferentially greater than 1% by weight and preferentially less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) (i) comprise a main chain consisting of a nonionic cellulose ether onto which are attached one or more hydrophobic groups chosen from:

1) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(C3-C6 alkyl) groups in which the alkoxy fragment is linear or branched and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably the 3-alkoxy- 2-hydroxypropyl group,

2) C9-C30, preferably C10-C22 and better still C₁₂-C₁₈ alkyl groups, and C6-C30 aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups.

3) and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) do not comprise any non-alkoxylated C3-8 alkyl groups.

5. Composition according to Claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the hydrophobic group(s) are chosen from: Γ) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl groups in which the alkoxy fragment is linear or branched and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms,

2') C9-C30, preferably C10-C22, better still C₁₂-C₁₈, and even more preferentially C₁₂- Ci6, alkyl groups,

3') and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) with a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 100 000 to 2 000 000, better still from 200 000 to 1 500 000 and even more preferentially from 250 000 to 1 000 000.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) are chosen from cetylhydroxyethylcelluloses with a content of hydrophobic group(s) of greater than 0.6% by weight.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) are present in proportions of from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are surfactants bearing sulfate and/or sulfonate group(s) chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefm sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylsulfosuccinates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group, these compounds possibly being mono- or polyoxyethylenated, and possibly comprising up to 50 oxyethylene units.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) bearing sulfate and/or sulfonate group(s) (ii) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% by weight and more particularly from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched fatty alcohol(s) comprise from 10 to 100 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 16 to 40 and even better still from 20 to 40 carbon atoms.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyl-octanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-cetanol, 2- dodecyl hexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-eicosanol, 2- hexadecyl-l-octadecanol and 2-hexadecyl-l-eicosanol, and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-l-dodecanol.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched fatty alcohol(s) are present in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants other than the anionic surfactants (ii), amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more cationic polymers.

17. Process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, characterized in that it consists in applying to the hair or the body a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, and then in rinsing.

18. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, for conditioning the hair or washing/cleansing the body.