WO2013037750A1

WO2013037750A1 - Kit

Info

Publication number: WO2013037750A1
Application number: PCT/EP2012/067696
Authority: WO
Inventors: Peter Lawrence Bailey; Christopher John Roberts; Hannah Mary SOUTHEY-DAVIES; Marta Wiktoria ZABAWA
Original assignee: Unilever Plc; Unilever N.V.; Hindustan Unilever Limited
Priority date: 2011-09-15
Filing date: 2012-09-11
Publication date: 2013-03-21

Abstract

Kit comprising a variable volume ratio dispensing mechanism and a first hair treatment composition comprising a hair fibre active and second hair treatment composition comprising a conditioning active and a method of treating hair by sequentially applying a product which comprises a mixture of a first hair treatment composition comprising a hair fibre active and a second hair treatment composition comprising a conditioning active and wherein the volume of the first composition is decreased and the volume of the second composition is increased each subsequent application by the user.

Description

KIT

The present invention relates to a composition for treating damaged hair. Despite the prior art there remains the need for improved compositions for treating damaged hair.

Accordingly, and in a first aspect, the present invention provides a kit comprising a variable volume ratio dispensing mechanism and a first hair treatment composition comprising a hair fibre damage repair active and second hair treatment

composition comprising a conditioning active.

Suitable fibre actives include carboxylic acids with a molecular weight of 900 or less selected from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, (N-(2,4-dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutyryl)- beta- alanine), muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o,m,p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6'- binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1 ,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2- pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1 ,2,4,6, 7-naphthalenepentaacetic acid, malonaldehydic acid, 4-hydroxyphthalamidic acid, 1 -pyrazolecarboxyilic acid, gallic acid or propanetricarboxylic acid; disaccharides such as trehalose, lactones such as gluconolactone, plant extracts and the physiologically acceptable salts thereof. More preferably the carboxylic acid has a molecular weight of 750 or less.

Preferably, the acid has a molecular weight of at least 60. Preferably, the mechanism comprises a first dispenser for the first composition and a second dispenser for the second mechanism. Preferably, the variable dispensing mechanism comprises a first chamber for the first composition and a second chamber for the second composition. In such an embodiment the first and second compositions are stored independently of one another and are only mixed when dispensed from their respective chambers.

Preferably, the mechanism comprises a means for varying the volume ratio between the first and second compositions on dispensing. Preferably, the ratio between the first and second composition is from 1 :20 to 20: 1 , more preferably from 1 : 15 to 15: 1 and most preferably from 1 : 10 to 10: 1. Preferably, the ratio between the first and second composition is changeable between 1 :20 to 20: 1 . In other words the maximum volume difference that can be dispensed between the first and second composition is from 1 :20 to 20: 1 . Preferably, the mechanism comprises an indicator which indicates to the user the ratio between the first and second composition. Preferably, the indicator indicates to the user the order in which the first and second compositions are mixed in order to achieve the intended graduated application of more fibre actives at the beginning of the treatment and more conditioning treatment at the end.

Preferably, the mechanism has a treatment start and a treatment finish position. Preferably, the treatment start position is indicated as the 'start position', 'day V or 'position V for example on the indicator. Particularly preferred mechanisms are the range of products manufactured by VariBlend®.

Preferably, the treatment start position dispenses the first and second

compositions in a ratio where more of the first composition is dispensed than the second composition. This provides a bias towards fibre active treatment over conditioning treatment since damaged hair has a greater requirement for fibre repair than for superficial conditioning.

After the first treatment, the mechanism is adjusted, either by the user or automatically on dispensing the first application, such on the subsequent application of product, less of the first composition is applied and more of the second composition is applied. Preferably, the indicator is similarly adjusted to read 'treatment 2', 'day 2' or 'position 2' for example. The product is therefore applied with increasing amounts of conditioning composition and decreasing amounts of fibre repair composition. Preferably, the indicator is similarly adjusted so the user is more easily aware of the treatment progress. Towards the end of the treatment process there is significantly more conditioning composition dispensed than fibre active repair composition to represent the increased need for conditioning the hair once the fibres have been repaired.

Preferably, the first composition comprises a dispersed lamellar gel phase. More preferably, the first composition comprises moisturising oils.

The second composition comprises a conditioning active. Preferably, the conditioning active is selected from cationic surfacants (e.g. behenyltrimmonium chloride (BTAC)), a conditioning silicone (e.g. aminosilicone (DC7134)) and a non- silicone oil, usually a fatty alcohol (e.g. cetearyl alcohol).

Suitable conditioning surfactants include those selected from cationic surfactants, used singly or in admixture. Preferably, the cationic surfactants have the formula N⁺R¹ R²R³R⁴ wherein R¹ , R², R³ and R⁴ are independently (Ci to C₃₀) alkyl or benzyl. Preferably, one, two or three of R¹ , R², R³ and R⁴ are independently (C₄ to C30) alkyl and the other R¹ , R², R³ and R⁴ group or groups are (C1-C6) alkyl or benzyl. More preferably, one or two of R¹ , R², R³ and R⁴ are independently (C6 to C30) alkyl and the other R¹ , R², R³ and R⁴ groups are (C1 -C6) alkyl or benzyl groups. Optionally, the alkyl groups may comprise one or more ester (-OCO- or - COO-) and/or ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain. Alkyl groups may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched and, for alkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. The alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon- carbon double bonds (eg, oleyl). Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

Suitable cationic surfactants for use in conditioner compositions according to the invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride,

tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride,

dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride (eg, Arquad 2HT/75 from Akzo Nobel), cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and the corresponding hydroxides thereof. Further suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium- 31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable. A particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in conditioners according to the invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese. Another particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in conditioners according to the invention is

behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN KDMP, ex Clariant. Another example of a class of suitable cationic surfactants for use in the invention, either alone or together with one or more other cationic surfactants, is a

combination of (i) and (ii) below: (i) an amidoamine corresponding to the general formula (I):

in which R¹ is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms,

R² and R³ are independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains of from 1

10 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 10; and

(ii) an acid. As used herein, the term hydrocarbyl chain means an alkyl or alkenyl chain.

Preferred amidoamine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I) in which

R¹ is a hydrocarbyl residue having from about 1 1 to about 24 carbon atoms, R² and R³ are each independently hydrocarbyl residues, preferably alkyl groups, having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 4.

Preferably, R² and R³ are methyl or ethyl groups. Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e. an ethylene or propylene group.

Preferred amidoamines useful herein include stearamido-propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine,

stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl-diethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethyl-amine,

behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine,

behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl-dimethylamine,

arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid-amidoethyldiethylamine,

arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred amidoamines useful herein are

stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

Commercially available amidoamines useful herein include:

stearamidopropyldimethylamine with tradenames LEXAMINE S-13 available from Inolex (Philadelphia Pennsylvania, USA) and AMIDOAMINE MSP available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), stearamidoethyldiethylamine with a tradename

AMIDOAMINE S available from Nikko, behenamidopropyldimethylamine with a tradename INCROMINE BB available from Croda (North Humberside, England), and various amidoamines with tradenames SCHERCODINE series available from Scher (Clifton New Jersey, USA).

A protonating acid may be present. Acid may be any organic or mineral acid which is capable of protonating the amidoamine in the conditioner composition. Suitable acids useful herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof.

The primary role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition thus forming a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situ in the hair treatment composition. The TAS in effect is a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant. Suitably, the acid is included in a sufficient amount to protonate more than 95 mole% (293 K) of the amidoamine present. In conditioners of the invention, the level of cationic surfactant will generally range from 0.01 % to 10%, more preferably 0.05 % to 7.5%, most preferably 0.1 % to 5% by weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention can contain emulsified droplets of a silicone conditioning agent for enhancing conditioning performance.

Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular

polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use compositions of the invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Also suitable for use in compositions of the invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 98/31 188. The viscosity of the emulsified silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning compositions) is typically at least 10,000 est at 25 °C the viscosity of the silicone itself is preferably at least 60,000 est, most preferably at least 500,000 est, ideally at least 1 ,000,000 est. Preferably, the viscosity does not exceed 10⁹ est for ease of formulation.

Emuslified silicones for use in the shampoo compositions of the invention will typically have an average silicone droplet size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 μm, ideally from 0.01 to 1 μm. Silicone emulsions having an average silicone droplet size of around 0.15 μm are generally termed microemulsions. Emulsified silicones for use in the conditioner compositions of the invention will typically have a size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 15. Preferably the average silicone droplet is greater than 0.5 mm, more preferably greater than 1 μm, ideally from 2 to 8 μm.

Silicone particle size may be measured by means of a laser light scattering technique, for example using a 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern Instruments.

Examples of suitable pre-formed emulsions include Xiameter MEM 1785 and microemulsion DC2-1865 available from Dow Corning. These are emulsions

/microemulsions of dimethiconol. Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in a pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation.

A further preferred class of silicones for inclusion in shampoos and conditioners of the invention are amino functional silicones. By "amino functional silicones" is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include: polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation "amodimethicone". Specific examples of amino functional silicones suitable for use in the invention are the aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166 and DC2-8566 (all ex Dow Corning).

Suitable quaternary silicone polymers are described in EP-A-0 530 974. A preferred quaternary silicone polymer is K3474, ex Goldschmidt.

Also suitable are emulsions of amino functional silicone oils with non ionic and/or cationic surfactant.

Pre-formed emulsions of amino functional silicone are also available from suppliers of silicone oils such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include DC939 Cationic Emulsion and the non-ionic emulsions DC2- 7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177 and DC2-8154 (all ex Dow Corning).

The total amount of silicone preferably from 0.01 wt% of the total composition more preferably from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, most preferably 0.5 wt% to 3 wt% is a suitable level.

Compositions according to the present invention may also comprise a dispersed, non-volatile, water-insoluble oily conditioning agent. Preferably such non-silicone conditioning oily conditioning agents are present in conditioner compositions.

By "insoluble" is meant that the material is not soluble in water (distilled or equivalent) at a concentration of 0.1 % (w/w), at 25°C. Suitable oily or fatty materials are selected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters and mixtures thereof. Straight chain hydrocarbon oils will preferably contain from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms. Also suitable are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as C2-C6 alkenyl monomers. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used.

Suitable fatty esters are characterised by having at least 10 carbon atoms, and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols, Monocarboxylic acid esters include esters of alcohols and/or acids of the formula R'COOR in which R' and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20. Di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used.

Particularly preferred fatty esters are mono-, di- and triglycerides, more

specifically the mono-, di-, and tri-esters of glycerol and long chain carboxylic acids such as C1-C22 carboxylic acids. Preferred materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil.

The oily or fatty material is suitably present at a level of from 0.05 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.2 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 wt% to 3 wt%.

Such conditioner compositions will typically comprise one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Conditioning compositions of the invention will preferably also incorporate a fatty alcohol. The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in

conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also

advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention.

The level of fatty alcohol in conditioners of the invention will generally range from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 % to 8%, more preferably from 0.2 % to 7 %, most preferably from 0.3 % to 6 % by weight of the composition. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 1 : 1 to 1 : 10, preferably from 1 : 1 .5 to 1 :8, optimally from 1 :2 to 1 :5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, this can lead to eye irritancy from the composition. If it is too low, it can make the hair feel squeaky for some consumers.

Preferably, the volume ratio between the first and second composition is initially set at from 20: 1 to 7: 1. This predetermines that unless altered by the user, that the initial application of the mixture of the two compositions comprises more of the first composition and less of the second.

In a second aspect the present invention provides a method of treating hair by sequentially applying a product which comprises a mixture of a first hair treatment composition comprising a hair fibre active and a second hair treatment

composition comprising a conditioning active and wherein the volume of the first composition is decreased and the volume of the second composition is increased each subsequent application by the user.

Conditioninq composition

The fibre active composition the conditioning composition are contained in a VariBlend® package which stores each composition independently of one another yet dispenses them together.

At the beginning, the indicator on the package indicates to the user that the treatment process is at the beginning and the ratio between the fibre active composition and the conditioning composition is 9: 1 . When the package dispenser is actuated the compositions are thus dispensed in a 9: 1 volume ratio. For the following treatment the user switches the dial on the VariBlend® product to the next directed step such that the ratio between the fibre active composition and the conditioning composition is 8:2. This proceeds to 7:3, 6:4, 5:5, 4:6, 3:7, 2:9 to the final application which is therefore 1 : 10. In other words, more fibre active treatment and less conditioning occurs at the beginning and more conditioning and less fibre treatment occurs at the end.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Kit comprising a variable volume ratio dispensing mechanism and a first hair treatment composition comprising a hair fibre active and second hair treatment composition comprising a conditioning active.

2. Kit according to claim 1 wherein the mechanism comprises a dispenser for the first composition and an additional dispenser for the second mechanism.

3. Kit according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the variable volume ratio dispensing mechanism is variable by the user to change the dispensed volume ratio between the first and second composition.

4. Kit according to any preceding claim wherein the volume ratio between the first and second composition is initially set at from 20: 1 to 7: 1 .

5. Method of treating hair by sequentially applying a product which comprises a mixture of a first hair treatment composition comprising a hair fibre active and a second hair treatment composition comprising a conditioning active and wherein the volume of the first composition is decreased and the volume of the second composition is increased each subsequent application by the user.