WO2012110608A2 - Process for treating keratin fibres using a silicone elastomer in combination with heat - Google Patents

Process for treating keratin fibres using a silicone elastomer in combination with heat Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012110608A2
WO2012110608A2 PCT/EP2012/052707 EP2012052707W WO2012110608A2 WO 2012110608 A2 WO2012110608 A2 WO 2012110608A2 EP 2012052707 W EP2012052707 W EP 2012052707W WO 2012110608 A2 WO2012110608 A2 WO 2012110608A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
silicone
composition
keratinous fibers
group
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2012/052707
Other languages
French (fr)
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WO2012110608A3 (en
Inventor
Frédéric Woodland
Lydia Panangatte
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR1151319A external-priority patent/FR2971710B1/en
Priority claimed from FR1151320A external-priority patent/FR2971709B1/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2012110608A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012110608A2/en
Publication of WO2012110608A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012110608A3/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as hair, using a composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicone (s) in combination with heat.
  • the subject of the invention is a process for shaping keratinous fibers, in particular for curling, curling, straightening, smoothing and disciplining keratin fibers, using a composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicone (s). ) in combination with heat.
  • Hair care fixing rinsed are not always enough to obtain a lasting shape.
  • the use of heat-transforming devices such as irons, loosers, curlers, or hair does not give complete satisfaction either.
  • hairstyles are wet or exposed to conditions of high humidity, the hair loses its shape and tends to quickly return to its original shape.
  • Some hair care not rinsed to provide li ssage and maintenance of the hair may also have the disadvantage of bringing a particular touch hardened or greasy.
  • the applicant has discovered that the use of one or more crosslinked elastomeric silicone (s), in combination with heat, allowed to obtain these advantages.
  • the Applicant has discovered that the use of one or more elastomeric silicone (s), allowed to form keratin fibers in an effective and durable manner especially under conditions of high relative humidity ( at least 80% for example) or even after several washes, without chemical alteration of the hair fiber and without the aforementioned disadvantages.
  • the process for treating keratinous fibers according to the invention is particularly advantageous for shaping keratin fibers that are sensitized without these being more fragile or damaged and that the touch is impaired.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of one or more polyoxyalkylenated (s) and / or polyglycerolated (s) elastomeric silicone (s) and one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a hair composition.
  • aqueous, for shaping including curling, fri er, défri ser, li sser and di ciple keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers such as hair, sensitized or not.
  • the process for treating keratinous fibers comprises a step of applying a composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicone (s) and at least one a simultaneous, prior or subsequent step of heat treatment of said keratinous fibers.
  • a composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicone (s) and at least one a simultaneous, prior or subsequent step of heat treatment of said keratinous fibers.
  • the heat treatment will therefore be carried out in the presence or absence of the composition on the keratinous fibers.
  • the composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicone according to the invention is first applied to the keratin fibers, and these fibers are subjected to one or more heat treatments.
  • the heat can be brought to the keratinous fibers by any well known heat source and usually used in the hair field.
  • the heat can thus be fed to the keratinous fibers by contact with the heating device (s) with the keratinous fibers, by infrared radiation and / or convection of hot air.
  • the temperature of the keratinous fibers is raised to at least 40 ° C, and more preferably to at least 150 ° C.
  • the temperature of the keratinous fibers is brought to a temperature ranging from 40 to 250 ° C., more preferably 150 to 250 ° C., and more preferably from 150 to 220 ° C.
  • the temperature of the keratinous fibers is brought to a temperature ranging from 40 to 65 ° C., especially when a thermal convection heating device or an infrared radiation heating device is used.
  • the process according to the invention is a process for shaping keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as hair.
  • the method according to the invention may then further comprise a step of shaping the keratinous fibers.
  • This step may be distinct from the heat treatment stage or stages of the keratinous fibers or may be carried out simultaneously at a heat treatment stage.
  • the shaping of the keratin fibers may be carried out by hand, for example by wrapping a lock of hair between the fingers to form a loop, or by means of one or more mechanical shaping devices, such as tweezers or curlers.
  • the step of shaping the keratinous fibers is carried out simultaneously with a heat treatment step.
  • the heat treatment is implemented using one or more heat conductive heating device (s) capable (s) of heat-treating keratin fibers and simultaneously shaping them. This is called heating shaping devices.
  • the contact surface or surfaces of said device with the keratin fibers may be in various forms, depending on the shape of the desired deformation.
  • the contact surface or surfaces may for example be flat (smoothing plates) to obtain a smoothing or round (curling iron) to obtain loops. It (s) can also take any form useful for creping, embossing, crimping or any desired original shape.
  • the heating device comprises two contact surfaces with the keratinous fibers.
  • the two contact surfaces preferably have complementary forms, identical or different, superimposed on one another. This may for example be two flat surfaces or a surface having at least one concave portion and a surface having at least one convex portion.
  • a heating iron is used as a shaping iron or a curling iron possibly associated with a source of steam.
  • the application of iron can be done by successive separate keys of a few seconds, or by moving or sliding progressively along the locks of hair.
  • the contact surface of the heating device with the keratin fibers has a temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C., preferably ranging from 40 to 250 ° C., preferably from 150 to 250 ° C, and more preferably 150 to 220 ° C.
  • the process of the invention is carried out with an iron with a temperature ranging from 150 to 250 ° C., and more preferably ranging from 150 to 220 ° C.
  • the process according to the invention may further comprise one or more rinsing steps, non-thermal drying, capping of the fibers keratinous, for example using a comb or a hairbrush.
  • the step of applying the composition to the keratinous fibers is followed, after a possible exposure time, with a rinsing step optionally followed by a drying step. and / or brushing keratin fibers, before thermal treatment of keratinous fibers.
  • the duration of the exposure time can vary from 1 to 10 minutes, preferably from 2 to 5 minutes.
  • composition used according to the invention is a non-rinsed composition
  • the composition is not rinsed after its application.
  • Drying of the keratinous fibers can be carried out with a towel or by spinning by hand at room temperature.
  • the process for treating, and in particular shaping, keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as hair comprises a step of applying a composition comprising at least one elastomeric silicone and at least two heat treatment stages.
  • a composition comprising at least one elastomeric silicone and at least two heat treatment stages.
  • at least one of the heat treatment steps is carried out before shaping the keratinous fibers and at least one of the heat treatment steps is carried out after or simultaneously with the shaping of the keratinous fibers.
  • the process for treating keratinous fibers according to the invention may thus comprise, for example, at least one heat treatment step carried out using a thermal convection heating device or an infrared radiation heating device, and at least one step of heat treatment carried out using heating device (s) heating (s).
  • the temperatures applied to the various heat treatment steps according to the process according to the invention are selected as defined above and may be identical or different. Preferably, the temperatures applied at each heat treatment stage are increasing. Thus, each heat treatment is applied a temperature higher than the temperature applied during the preceding heat treatment step.
  • the first heat treatment applied subjects the keratin fibers to a lower temperature than the second heat treatment applied.
  • the process for treating and in particular for forming keratinous fibers according to the invention comprises the following steps in the following order: application of the composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicones as defined above, on keratinous fibers,
  • compositions rinsing the composition with water after a possible pause time, total or partial drying of the keratinous fibers or heat treatment of the keratinous fibers at a temperature ranging from 40 ° C to 65 ° C,
  • Keratinous fibers are formed by means of a heating medium as defined above at a temperature preferably ranging from 150 ° to 250 ° C., and preferably from 150 ° to 250 ° C. more preferably from 150 to 220 ° C.
  • the residence time of the composition with silicone (s) elastomer (s) can range from 1 to 10 minutes, preferably from 2 to 5 minutes.
  • the process for treating and in particular forming keratinous fibers according to the invention comprises the following steps in the following order: application of the composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicones such as than previously defined, on keratinous fibers,
  • a heating shaping means as defined above at a temperature preferably ranging from 150 to 250 ° C., and preferably from 150 to 250 ° C., still more preferably from 150 to 220 ° C.
  • composition used according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition, preferably comprising from 5% to 99.9% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 99.9% by weight, better still from 70% to 98.5% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 80 to 95% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous composition may comprise one or more organic solvents, preferably chosen from C 1 -C 4 lower alcohols; C3-C20 polyols; C3-C20 polyol ethers; C5-C10 alkanes; and their mixtures.
  • sicone elastomer or “silicone elastomer” is meant a partially or totally crosslinked organopolysiloxane, forming a flexible and deformable material, having viscoelastic properties, its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction.This material is able to recover its original shape after stress deformation, for example following stretching.
  • the silicone elastomer used according to the invention is preferably a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrophilic chain, this chain possibly being in particular polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated.
  • the silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon and positioned relative to one another.
  • a and ⁇ of the silicone chain, (Al) and a compound having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.
  • (B1) especially in the presence of a catalyst (C1), in particular a platinum catalyst, and at least one of the compounds (A1) or (B1) is polyoxyalkylenated, as for example described in documents US-A- 5,236,986 and US-A-5,412,004.
  • the compound (Al) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (Al) with the compound (Bl) in the presence of the catalyst (Cl).
  • the compound (B1) is advantageously an oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated organopolysiloxane comprising at least two vinyl groups in the - ⁇ position of the silicone chain, which will react with Si-H bonds of the compound (Al).
  • the compound (B1) can in particular be a polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) organopolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings.
  • a polyoxyalkylene especially polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated organopolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings.
  • the organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A1) may be linear or branched alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl or decyl.
  • dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl, stearyl; linear or branched alkyl groups substituted, preferably with one or more aryl or halogen groups, and having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl or alkylaryl groups, preferably having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, phenylethyl; and monovalent hydrocarbon groups, preferably having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, having one or more epoxy, carboxylate ester, and / or mercapto groups. These groups may optionally be oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated.
  • the compound (Al) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers and the like. methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethyl siloxane with trimethylsiloxy ends.
  • Compound (C 1) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenyl siloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support.
  • the catalyst (C 1) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as the platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds ( A l) and (B l).
  • the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinyl siloxy end-groups and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy ends, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
  • polyoxyalkylene especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene
  • the polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably a polyoxyethylenated silicone elastomer.
  • the polyoxyalkyl silicone elastomer is preferably conveyed in gel form in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil.
  • the polyoxyalkylene elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
  • Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers are described in US-A-5, 236,986, US-A-5, 412, 004, US-A-5, 837, 793, US-A-5, 811, 487 and the like. whose contents are incorporated by reference.
  • polyoxyethylenated silicone elastomers that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of those sold by Shin Etsu, under the names:
  • KSG-20 (95% by weight of active ingredient, INCI name: PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer),
  • - KSG-30 (100% by weight of active ingredient INCI name: Lauryl PEG-1 5 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer)
  • - KSG-31 (25% by weight of active ingredient INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer)
  • KSG-310 Polyoxyethylenated crosslinked polyimethylsiloxane modified lauryl in mineral oil (ore oil),
  • X-226146 (at 32% by weight of active ingredient, INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), or those marketed by Dow Corning under the names:
  • the silicone elastomer marketed under the name KSG-210 (INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer) which is comprised at 25% by weight of active material in silicone oil is preferably used.
  • the silicone elastomer may also be chosen from polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
  • the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane obtainable in particular by addition reaction crosslinking a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon (A2) and a polyglycerolated compound having groups ethylenically unsaturated (B2), especially in the presence of catalyst (C2), in particular platinum catalyst.
  • the crosslinked polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerol compound and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogen polysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.
  • the compound (A2) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A2) with the compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2).
  • the compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms and positioned relative to one another at a and ⁇ of the silicone chain.
  • Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with compound (B2).
  • the organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A2) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
  • said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups. These groups may optionally be oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated.
  • the compound (A2) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.
  • the compound (B2) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the following formula (B'2):
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, more preferably from 2 to 50, in particular from 2 to 20, better still from 2 to 10, and even preferably from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3; Gly means:
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A2) is at least 4.
  • the compound (A2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A2) and the total amount of all the Ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B2) are in the range of 1: 1 to 20: 1.
  • Compound (C2) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenyl siloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support.
  • the catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as the pure platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds ( A2) and (B2).
  • the polyglycerolated elastomer silicone according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel.
  • the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
  • polyglycerolated silicone elastomers those sold under the following names by Shin Etsu can be used:
  • the silicone (s) elastomer (s) used (s) according to the invention is (are) preferably polyoxyethylenated (s).
  • composition used according to the invention may preferably comprise from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight of silicone (s) elastomer. (s) as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more non-silicone fatty substances.
  • fatty substance is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa), that is to say of lower solubility. 5% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight.
  • the fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • non-silicone fatty substance is meant a fatty substance whose structure does not contain more than one silicon atom.
  • the fatty substances that can be used in the composition according to the invention are not polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated.
  • the non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty esters, fatty ethers, non-silicone waxes and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, they are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
  • They can be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the liquid fatty substances which can be used according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better than or equal to 1 Pa.s, and even more preferably less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s, at the temperature. at 25 ° C and at a shear rate of 1 s -1 .
  • liquid hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa), especially mineral or vegetable origin, preferably of plant origin.
  • liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:
  • linear or branched C 6 -C 16 alkanes which are optionally cyclic.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of animal or synthetic mineral origin of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such that sold under the Parléam® brand by NOF CORPORATION, the squalane.
  • liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from paraffin oils, volatile or otherwise, and petrolatum oil.
  • liquid fatty alcohol is meant a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 50 carbon atoms.
  • the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.
  • Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.
  • liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
  • Octyldodecanol is particularly preferred.
  • the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When more than one double bond is present, it is preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated.
  • These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.
  • They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.
  • liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenic alcohol.
  • Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred.
  • the fatty acids may be chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, where R is a saturated or unsaturated group, linear or branched, preferably containing from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.
  • R is a C7-C29 alkyl or C7-C29 alkenyl group, more preferably a C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24-R alkenyl group may be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups and / or one or more carboxyl groups.
  • the fatty acid may in particular be chosen from lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and stearic acid. These fatty acids must be non-salified so as not to give birth to soaps that are generally water-soluble or water-dispersible.
  • liquid fatty ester an ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa). .
  • the esters are preferably the liquid esters of linear or branched C 1 -C 6 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids and the liquid esters of linear or branched C 1 - saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols.
  • C 26 the total number of carbon atoms of the liquid esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl and isopropyl palmitates alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of 2 ethylhexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and isononyl isononoate.
  • esters of C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar alcohols di-, tri- , tetra- or pentahydroxylés C 4 -C26- include diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisopropyl adipate, di (n-propyl ), dioctyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, triocty
  • composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty esters, esters and diesters of sugars and fatty acids C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, which are liquid.
  • sugars are understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functional groups, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylol, lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkylated. , such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
  • esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or melanges of sugar esters previously described and of linear C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acids. or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myriates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate esters. .
  • mono- and di-esters and especially mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose are used.
  • liquid fatty esters As vegetable oils or synthetic triglycerides, used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, there may be mentioned for example:
  • triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, olive, rapeseed, copra, wheat, sweet almond, apricot, safflower,nadooulier nut, camellina, tamanu, babassu and pracaxi, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by DYNAMIT NOBEL, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.
  • esters according to the invention liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will be used.
  • Myristate or isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred.
  • liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.
  • the fatty substance (s) used in the composition according to the invention may also be non-liquid fatty substances at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • non-liquid preferably means a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s -1 .
  • non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes and fatty, non-liquid and preferably solid ethers.
  • Non-liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated alcohols, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol).
  • fatty acid esters and / or non-liquid fatty alcohols mention may in particular be made of solid esters derived from C 9 -C 26 fatty acids and from C 9 -C 22 fatty alcohols.
  • the solid fatty esters that may be used in the composition of the invention are preferably saturated fatty acid esters, and in particular esters of saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms, and saturated fatty monoalcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms. carbon. Saturated acids or monoalcohols may be linear or branched.
  • the saturated carboxylic acids preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. They can be optionally hydroxylated.
  • the saturated fatty monoalcohols preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty esters are chosen from myristyl, cetyl and stearyl myristates, myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates, cetyl and stearyl myristyl stearates, behenyl behenate, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-silicone wax or waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelila wax, alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina) and ceramides.
  • Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, are are known in themselves and are natural or synthetic molecules that can respond to the following general formula (I):
  • R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position, esterified with an acid; saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fat,
  • R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl) n group
  • R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group may be substituted by one or more C 1 -C alkyl groups,
  • R 3 may also designate a C 15 -C 26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C 6 -C 3 ⁇ -hydroxyacid.
  • Preferred ceramides in the context of of the present invention are those described by DOWNING in Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123, 1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2673179.
  • the ceramide or ceramides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16 -C 22 fatty acids, R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R 3 denotes a linear C 15 saturated group. .
  • Such compounds are, for example, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • the ceramides for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids, R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulphogalactosyl group and R 3 denotes a -CH CH- (CH 2 ) 12-group. CH 3 .
  • waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as those sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.
  • the non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
  • the non-silicone fatty substances according to the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters and ceramides.
  • the non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from liquid petrolatum, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, oleic alcohol, palmitate and the like. isopropyl, isopropyl myristate, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-linoyldihydrosphingosine.
  • the non-silicone fatty substance (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 50% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more additional non-elastomeric silicones.
  • non-elastomeric silicones that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are in particular non-elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes which may be in the form of aqueous solutions, that is to say solutions which are solubilized, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions. or aqueous emulsions.
  • the Non-elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968) Academy Press.
  • Non-elastomeric silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the non-elastomeric silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly between:
  • Cyclic silicone mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon may also be mentioned, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1, hexamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and hexamethylcyclotetrasiloxane. 2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane.
  • linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name " SH 200 "by TORAY SILICONE Silicones in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol 91, Jan. 76, p 27-32 - TODD & BYERS Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics ".
  • non-elastomeric silicones are nonvolatile, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and their mixtures are preferably used.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of 5 ⁇ 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1.10 "5-1 m 2 / s.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is for example measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
  • SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, the 70047 V 500000 oil,
  • oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning such as, more particularly, the DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 cSt (centistokes),
  • oils from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethyl siloxanes with dimethyl silanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
  • the polyalkylaryl siloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl methylphenyl siloxanes and linear and / or branched polydimethyl diphenyl siloxanes with a viscosity of 1. 10 "5 to 5. 10 " 2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C.
  • silicones of the PK series of the Bayer company such as the PK20 product
  • silicones of the PN and PH series from the Bayer company such as the PN 1000 and PH 1000 products
  • the silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polydiorganosiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or in a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen among the volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), i-soparaffins, polyi-sobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.
  • polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums.
  • More particularly useful products are the following mixtures:
  • dimethiconol hydroxylated polydimethyl siloxane at the end of the chain
  • cyclic polydimethyl siloxane a cyclic polydimethyl siloxane according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature
  • the mixtures formed from a polydimethyl siloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Flui d from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a mean molecular weight in terms of number of 500,000, solubilized in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
  • the product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5. 10 -6 m 2 / s.
  • This product preferably comprises 15% by weight of SE gum and 85% by weight of an SF 96 oil.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are siloxane systems crosslinked containing the units: R2S1O2 / 2, R3S1O1 / 2, RS1O3 / 2 and S1O4 / 2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
  • organomodified silicones optionally present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.
  • non-elastomeric organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
  • polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C 12 ) meticone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q25200,
  • alkoxylated groups such as the product marketed under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLD SCHMIDT,
  • hydroxyl groups such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FR 2 589 476,
  • acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732,
  • anionic groups of the carboxylic type such as, for example, in the products described in the patent EP 1 86 507 of the company CHIS SO CORPORATION, or of alkylcarboxylic type such as those present in the product X-22-3701 E of the company SHIN- and SU, 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate, 2-hydroxyalkylthio sulphate, such as the products marketed by GOLD SCHMIDT under the names "ABIL S201" and "ABIL S255",
  • hydroxyacylamino groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from Dow Corning.
  • organomodified silicones mention may also be made of amino silicones.
  • amino silicone any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • amino silicones optionally used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
  • T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, hydroxyl e (-OH), or C 1 -C 8 alkyl, and preferably methyl, or C 1 -C 8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, a denotes the number 0 or an integer of 1 to 3, and preferably 0,
  • b is 0 or 1, and in particular 1,
  • n + m are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000, and in particular from 1 to 10,
  • R 1 is a monovalent group of formula -C q H 2 q L wherein q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from among the groups:
  • R 2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, an enzyl group, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon group, for example a C 1 -C 20 alkyl group
  • Q " represents a halide ion such as for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (II) are chosen from compounds corresponding to the following formula (III):
  • R, R ', R " identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3 , a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy, or OH
  • A represents a alkylene group, linear or branched, C 3 -C 8 , preferably C 3 -C 6 , m and n are integers depending on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
  • R, R 'and R " which are identical or different, each represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyl group
  • A represents a C 3 alkylene group
  • m and n are such that the average molecular weight
  • the weight of the compound is from about 5,000 to about 500,000.
  • the compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicone".
  • R, R 'and R " which are identical or different, each represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the R or R" groups is an alkoxy group and A represents a C 3 alkylene group.
  • the hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2 / 1 and 0.4 / 1 and advantageously equal to 0.3 / 1.
  • m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000. In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Bel sil®ADM 652 marketed by WACKER.
  • R and R " each represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R and R" being an alkoxy group, R 'representing a methyl group and A representing a C 3 alkylene group.
  • the hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 1: 0.8 and 1: 1, and preferably is 1: 0.95.
  • m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • Flui dWR® 1300 sold by WACKER.
  • the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, ⁇ styragem columns, eluent THF, flow rate of 1 mm / m, injected with 200 ⁇ l of a solution of 0.5 % by weight of silicone in THF and the detection is carried out by refractometry and UV-metry).
  • a product corresponding to the definition of formula (II) is in particular the polymer referred to in the CTFA dictionary "trimethyl silylamodimethicone", corresponding to formula (IV) below:
  • a compound of formula (IV) is, for example, sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
  • R 3 represents a monovalent C 1 -C 18 hydrocarbon group, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl or C 2 -C 18 alkenyl group, for example methyl,
  • R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8 , alkyleneoxy group,
  • Q " is a halide ion, especially chloride
  • r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular 2 to 8
  • s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.
  • a compound in this class is that sold by UNION CARBIDE under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56".
  • R.7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 8 alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 atoms carbon, for example methyl,
  • R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group include alkylene Ci-Cis or a divalent alkyleneoxy group C 1 -C 18 alkyl, for example Ci-C 8 connected to the Si via an Si-C bond,
  • R 8 identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and especially an alkyl group Ci-8 alkenyl, C 2 -C 8, a group -R6-NHCOR7,
  • X " is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, 3),
  • r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular 5 to 100.
  • R 1, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which are identical or different, each denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
  • R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group
  • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g (milliequivalent per gram).
  • a particularly interesting embodiment is their use together with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants.
  • Another commercial product that can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the company Dow Corning, comprising in combination the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (III) described above, a non-surfactant ionic compound of formula C 8 H 17 -C 6 H 4 - (OCH 2 CH 2 ) 40 -OH, known under the name CTFA "octoxynol-40", a second non-surface active agent ionic Ci2H25- formula (OCH 2 -CH 2) 6-OH, known under the CTFA name "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol.
  • the silicones of the invention may also be anionic grafted silicones such as compounds VS 80 or VS 70 proposed by the company 3M.
  • the silicone is a chemically unmodified polydimethylsiloxane or an amino silicone.
  • the silicone or silicones may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. and more preferably from cationic surfactants.
  • surfactants preferably chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. and more preferably from cationic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups, in the composition used according to the invention. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups C0 2 H, C0 2 " , S0 3 H, S0 3 " , OS0 3 H, OSO 3 ⁇ 0 2 P0 2 H 2 , O 2 P0 2 H ⁇ 0 2 P0 2 2 ⁇
  • useful anionic surfactants include, for example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates and alpha olefins.
  • alkylsulfosuccinates alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, salts alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids; and the non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.
  • Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • Alkyl monoesters, salts of C 6 -24 of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be selected from alkyl polyglycoside citrates C 6 -24, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates the C 6 -24 and alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates
  • agent or the anionic surfactants are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine and especially aminoalcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine and especially aminoalcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.
  • aminoalcohol salts mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
  • the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • alkyl C 6 -24 sulfates, alkyl
  • (C6-24) ethersulfates optionally oxyethylenated comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, aminoalcohol.
  • the anionic surfactant (s) are chosen from (C 10 -C 20) alkyl ethersulfates, and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulphate containing 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide.
  • the amount of the anionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 4 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • nonionic surfactants useful in the cosmetic composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. They are chosen especially from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as oxyethylenated cetyl / stearyl alcohol ether, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated alpha-diols, and alkyls.
  • hydrocarbon copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan, optionally oxyethylenated, esters of fatty acids and of sucrose, esters of polyoxyalkylated fatty acids, alkylpolyglycosi optionally oxyalkylenes, alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine and N-acylmethylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides and amine oxides.
  • the amount of the nonionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include, for example, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 8 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, the derivatives derived from amines containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate group, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.
  • R a represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a R a -COOH acid, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
  • R represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X ' represents the group -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom
  • Y ' represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 Z ',
  • Z ' represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and especially an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
  • an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, potassium or magnesium
  • an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine and especially an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
  • R a ' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'COOH acid, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially a C 17 group, and its iso form an unsaturated C 17 group .
  • cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines such as cocoylbetaine, C 8 -C 20 alkylamido (C 2-8 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.
  • the amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on total weight of the composition.
  • composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from the following quaternary ammonium salts:
  • the radicals R 8 to Ru which may be identical or different, represent an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl or a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of R 8 radicals in Rio comprising an alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 25 carbon atoms, the aliphatic radicals possibly comprising heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C 2 -C 6 ), alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22) alkyl acetate, hydroxyalkyl, with about from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 30 and most preferably from 16 to 25 carbon atoms;
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides such as chloride, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C 2 -C 6 ) sulphates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulphonates such as methosulphate.
  • halides such as chloride, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C 2 -C 6 ) sulphates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulphonates such as methosulphate.
  • alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, or the salts oleocetyl dimethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium.
  • R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow
  • R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R14 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
  • R 15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (Ci-C 4 ) sulphates, alkyl (Ci-C 4 ) sulphonates or alkyl (Ci-C 4 ) aryl sulphonates, preferably
  • R 12 and R n denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow
  • R 14 de
  • R 16 denotes an alkyl group having from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms;
  • R17 is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group
  • R 16a, R 17a, R 18a, R 18, R 19, R 20 and R 21 which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and a group alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X " is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphonates or (C 1 -C 4) alkyl arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate
  • Such compounds are for example the Finquat CT-P proposed by the company
  • R.22 is selected from alkyl Cl-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl, Ci-C 6,
  • R 2 3 is chosen from:
  • R 25 is selected from:
  • R24, R26 and R-28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups;
  • r, s and t are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
  • rl and tl identical or different are 0 or 1
  • y is an integer from 1 to 10
  • x and z are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
  • X " is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is
  • R23 is R27 and when z is 0 then R25 is R29-
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably
  • R 2 4, R 26 and R 28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear C 1 -C 21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • x and z are 0 or 1.
  • y is 1.
  • r, s and t which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • a halide preferably chloride, bromide or iodide
  • alkyl (Ci-C4) sulfate, alkyl (Ci-C4) sulfonate or alkyl (Ci-C 4) arylsulfonate preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, alkyl (Ci-C4) sulfate, alkyl (Ci-C4) sulfonate or alkyl (Ci-C 4) arylsulfonate.
  • the anion X - is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • z is 0 or 1
  • R 2 3 is chosen from:
  • R25 is selected from:
  • R24, R26 and R28 are selected from hydrocarbon groups, C 13 -C 17 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from alkyl and alkenyl, C 13 - C 17, linear or branched , saturated or unsaturated.
  • hydrocarbon radicals are linear.
  • Examples of compounds of formula (XI) include salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl- methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly come from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter may be the same or different.
  • S of such compounds are for example the sub commerciali names Dehyquart ® by the company Henkel, STEPANQUAT ® by the company Stepan, NOXAMIUM ® by the company Ceca, and Rewoquat ® WE 1 8 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority of the diester salt.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
  • Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride for example, proposed by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 13 1 can be used.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose the cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt, and their melanges, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic surfactant (s) used according to the invention are present in amounts ranging preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 20% by weight. , 1%> to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more cationic polymers.
  • cationic polymer means any positively charged polymer comprising one or more cationic groups and / or cationic groups in the composition used according to the invention.
  • the cationic polymer or polymers which may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in the patent application EP-A. -0 337 354 and in the French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, FR-A-2 383 660, FR-A-2 598 6 1 1, FR-A-2 470 596, FR-A- 19,863 and FR-A-2875,503.
  • the preferred cationic polymer (s) are chosen from those which contain in their structure units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which may, for example, be part of the main polymer chain or may be used. by a lateral sub stituant directly connected to it.
  • the cationic polymers have no silicon in their structure.
  • the cationic polymers there may be mentioned more particularly the polymers of the family of polyamines, polyaminoamides and polyammonium quaternaries. Among these polymers, mention may be made of:
  • R 1 and R 2 which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • R-3 which may be identical or different, each denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 group
  • A which may be identical or different, each represents a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 which may be identical or different, each represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a benzyl group and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the polymers of family (1) may also contain one or more unit (s) derived from comonomers which may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by alkyls. lower (C 1 -C 4 ), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
  • unit (s) derived from comonomers which may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by alkyls. lower (C 1 -C 4 ), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
  • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
  • crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA.
  • a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester.
  • These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.
  • cationic polysaccharides chosen in particular from: a) cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1 492597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR” (JR 400, JR 125); , JR 30M) or "LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by the Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulo reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group,
  • cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiaryl ammonium.
  • guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups containing cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • guar gums modified with a salt for example, a chloride salt
  • 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used.
  • Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C 13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C 116 by the company MEYHALL
  • water-soluble cationic polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoams may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a saturated or unsaturated dianhydride, a bi-unsaturated derivative, a bi-halohydrin, a bi-azetidinium, a bi-haloacyldiamine, a bi-alkyl halide or an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reagent vis-à-vis bi-halohydrin, bi-azetidinium, bi-haloacyldiamine, alkyl bis-halogenide, epihalohydrin, diepoxide or a bi-unsaturated derivative; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amino functions, quaternized.
  • Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2,252,840
  • Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-dialkylamino hydroxyalkyl dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583,363.
  • the molar ratio of polyalkylene polyamine to dicarboxylic acid is from 0.8: 1 to 1.4: 1; the resultant polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1.
  • Such polymers are especially described in US Patents 3,227,661 and 2,961,347.
  • Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57” by the company Hercules Inc. or well under the name “PD 170” or “Del sette 101” by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine copolymer.
  • cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (XVI) or (XVII):
  • R 1 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • Ri o and Ru each independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a group lower amidoalkyl (ie, the alkyl part of which is C 1 -C 4 ), or R 1 and R 2 may, together with the nitrogen atom to which it is attached, denote a heterocyclic group, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; ; Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfite, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate
  • Ri o and Ru denote, independently of one another, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • homopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium chloride may be mentioned, more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-6) sold for example under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by NALCO (and its homologues of low molecular weight average) and copolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium chloride, more particularly the copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold in particular under the name "MERQUAT® 550".
  • dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride INCI name: Polyquaternium-6 sold for example under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by NALCO (and its homologues of low molecular weight average)
  • copolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium chloride more particularly the copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold in particular under the name "MERQUAT® 550.
  • Rn, Ri 4, Ri s and Ri 6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups (ie whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 4 ); , or Rn, Ri 4, R 15 and R 6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms it auxquel s s are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or Rn, R 4, R 1 and R 6 each represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group or -CO-O-R 17 -E or -CO-NH-R 17- Where R17 is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • Ai and B i represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid
  • a 1, R 1 and R 1 may form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they have attached a piperazine ring; furthermore, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B i may also denote a group:
  • n denotes an integer from 0 to 7 and E 'denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:
  • x and y each denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or a number any of 1 to 4 representing a mean degree of polymerization; b) a bismaline secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
  • Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or the divalent group -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -;
  • X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • Polymers which consist of repeating units having the formula (XIX) can be used more particularly:
  • Rn, Ri 4, Ri s and R 16 which are identical or different, each denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 8 and, X "is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. preferably, R, R 4, R s and R 16 each denote a methyl group.
  • sand utili polymer of formula (XIX) it mention may be made of hexadimethrine chloride, marketed under the name MEXOMERE PO by the company CHIMEX.
  • p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6,
  • D may be zero or may represent a group
  • X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • cationic polymers containing units of formula (XX) are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324 and may be prepared according to the processes described in the U.S. patents. A. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,390,689, 4,702,906, 4,719,282.
  • D represents a group - (CH 2 ) 4 -CO-
  • X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by carbon NMR 13 (C NMR) being about 5600;
  • MIRANOL a polymer of this type is proposed by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-AD1
  • D represents a group - (CH 2 ) 7 -CO-
  • X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by 13C NMR of Carbon 13 (NMR 13 C) being about 8100;
  • MIRANOL a polymer of this type is proposed by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-AZl,
  • D denotes the value zero
  • X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by NMR of Carbon 13, ( 13 C NMR) being approximately 25500;
  • MIRANOL a polymer of this type is sold by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-A15,
  • Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B A S.F.
  • H 2 C CR 2 NRC (O) R 1 wherein R, R 1 and R 2 are each selected from hydrogen, C 1 -C 20 alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl wherein the alkyl portion comprises 1 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • said monomer may be chosen from N-vinylformamide, N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide and N-vinylacetamide.
  • These polymers may be formed, for example, by radical polymerization of a vinylamide monomer and then partial acidic or basic hydrolysis of the amide functions to quaternizable amine functions, as described in applications WO 2007/005577, US Pat. Nos. 5,374,334, 6,426,383 and 6,894,110.
  • the polyurethanes formed by the following monomers are preferably used:
  • the amines forming the cationic units (a1) represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, of the total weight final polyurethane.
  • cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and chitin derivatives. .
  • cationic polymers it is preferred to use a copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-4) or polyquaternium-11 in the composition according to the present invention. the invention.
  • composition comprises at least one cationic polymer
  • the latter or they are present in a concentration ranging preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more thickening agents.
  • the thickening agent (s) may be chosen from sodium chloride, fatty acid amides obtained from C 10 -C 30 carboxylic acid (monoisopropanol-, diethanol- or coconut monoethanolamide, monoethanolamide). oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid), nonionic cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), starches and starch derivatives (hydroxypropylated starch phosphate, modified potato starch), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, such as by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers (Carbomer) sold in particular under the name Carbopol Ultrez Polymer by Lubrizol, and associative polymers
  • the associative polymer or polymers that can be used according to the invention are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
  • Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the associative polymer (s) used according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type, such as the polymers sold under the names PEMULEN TRI or TR2 by the company GOODRICH (INCI: Acrylates / C 10 -30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACO S T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.
  • PEMULEN TRI or TR2 by the company GOODRICH (INCI: Acrylates / C 10 -30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACO S T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.
  • the thickening agent (s) are nonionic.
  • the thickening agent (s) are preferably chosen from homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, preferably crosslinked, guar gums and its derivatives. nonionic, starch and its derivatives.
  • the composition comprises at least one thickening agent, the latter or these are present in a concentration preferably ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention can have a pH of between 3 and 10, and preferably between 5 and 7. This pH can be adjusted by means of acidifying agents and alkaline agents, conventionally used in the field. cosmetic.
  • Acidifying agents include, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acids and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid.
  • alkaline agents that may be mentioned, by way of example, are ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, hydroxides of sodium or potassium, and the compounds of formula (XXI) below: a ⁇ / b
  • W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
  • R a, R b, R c and R d identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group in C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl or C 1 -C 4.
  • composition may further comprise at least one cosmetic additive commonly used in the art, such as, for example, antioxidants, organic ultraviolet filters, inorganic ultraviolet filters, sweeteners, anti-oxidants, foams, moisturizers, emollients, plasticizers, mineral fillers, clays, colloidal minerals, pearlescent agents, fragrances, peptides, ceramides, preservatives, proteins, vitamins, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • at least one cosmetic additive commonly used in the art, such as, for example, antioxidants, organic ultraviolet filters, inorganic ultraviolet filters, sweeteners, anti-oxidants, foams, moisturizers, emollients, plasticizers, mineral fillers, clays, colloidal minerals, pearlescent agents, fragrances, peptides, ceramides, preservatives, proteins, vitamins, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • composition according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used for topical application.
  • the aqueous composition according to the invention may be rinsed or not rinsed.
  • the aqueous composition is a rinsed composition, such as a rinsed care composition.
  • the present invention is directed to the use of one or more polyoxyalkylenated (s) and / or polyglycerolated (s) elastomeric silicone (s) and one or more non-silicone fatty substances in an aqueous hair composition, to shape, in particular to curl, fri er, defri ser, bind and di scipliner keratin fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, sensitized or not.
  • polyoxyalkylenated and / or polyglycerolated elastomeric silicone (s), the non-silicone fatty substances and the aqueous hair composition are as described above.
  • the Applicant has discovered that the use of one or more silicone (s) polyoxyalkylenated eluent (s) and / or polyglycerolated (s) and one or more non-silicone fatty substances, allowed to formulate keratin fibers in an effective and durable manner, especially under conditions of high relative humidity (at least 80% for example) or even after several washes, without chemical alteration of the hair fiber.
  • polyoxyalkylenated (and / or polyglycerolated) elastomer silicones and one or more non-silicone fatty substances in an aqueous medium is particularly advantageous for shaping sensitized keratinous fibers without the latter becoming brittle or damaged and the touch being altered.
  • compositions were prepared according to the following tables. The amounts are indicated in percent by weight of active ingredient (M.A.) relative to the total weight of each composition.
  • KSG 210 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Dimethicone d) Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer)
  • K SG 330 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Triethylhexanoin (and) PEG-1 5 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer)
  • KSG 8 10 sold by the company Shin Etsu (INCI: Mineral Oil (and) Lauryl dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer)
  • KSG 210 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer)
  • K-PEG 180 sold by the company Kao (INCI: PEG-180)
  • KSG 210 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / PEG-10/1 5 Crosspolymer)
  • KSG 210 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer)
  • the procedure is as follows.
  • the composition is applied at the rate of 10 g on a half-head.
  • the hair is rinsed and then pre-dried with a hair dryer.
  • rinsed or non-rinsed compositions A to K according to the invention have good styling properties (discipline) and good cosmetic properties (smoothing).
  • composition B led to smoother and more disciplined hair compared to a composition of identical formula comprising an amodimethicone instead of elastomeric silicone.
  • a smoothing facility increased and increased discipline that lasts longer.
  • compositions B and B ' (B' being a comparative composition identical to composition B, but comprising an amodimethicone in place of KSG 210 elastomeric silicone) were compared.
  • the locks are then pre-dried flat with the helmet at a temperature of about 60 ° C for 10 minutes, then combed before being smoothed with a straightener at 210 ° C.
  • the iron is applied 5 times.
  • Imaging was evaluated by the analysis of each of compositions B and B 'tested, before treatment, just after treatment (t 0 ) and after 24 hours of exposure in an environment at 80% relative humidity. The lower the measured dispersion (misalignment), the more disciplining the product.
  • the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the disciplining effect (smoothing and ease of smoothing) of the hair over time under conditions of high relative humidity.

Abstract

Process for treating keratin fibres using a silicone elastomer in combination with heat. The present invention relates to a process for treating, and in particular for shaping, keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, such as hair, using one or more crosslinked silicone elastomer(s) in combination with heat, preferably using a heating shaping device.

Description

Procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques mettant en œuvre une silicone élastomère en association avec de la chaleur.  Process for treating keratin fibers using an elastomeric silicone in combination with heat
La présente invention se rapporte à un procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines, telles que des cheveux, mettant en œuvre une composition comprenant une ou plusieurs silicone(s) élastomère(s) en association avec de la chaleur. The present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as hair, using a composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicone (s) in combination with heat.
En particulier, l'invention a pour objet un procédé de mise en forme des fibres kératiniques, notamment pour boucler, friser, défriser, lisser, discipliner des fibres kératiniques, mettant en œuvre une composition comprenant une ou plusieurs silicone(s) élastomère(s) en association avec de la chaleur.  In particular, the subject of the invention is a process for shaping keratinous fibers, in particular for curling, curling, straightening, smoothing and disciplining keratin fibers, using a composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicone (s). ) in combination with heat.
Les traitements de défrisage, lissage ou permanente chimiques ont longtemps été utilisés pour obtenir une déformation durable des fibres kératiniques. Les cheveux conservent leur mise en forme après plusieurs shampooings.  Hair straightening, smoothing or permanent chemical treatments have long been used to obtain a lasting deformation of keratinous fibers. The hair keeps their shaping after several shampoos.
Or l'utilisation de ces traitements induit à la longue l'altération de la qualité de la fibre capillaire. Ces traitements chimiques présentent l'inconvénient d'abîmer et de fragiliser la fibre capillaire en entraînant la rupture de liaisons covalentes disulfurées de la kératine. On observe par exemple une diminution des propriétés cosmétiques telle que la brillance et une dégradation des propriétés mécaniques, plus particulièrement une dégradation de la résistance mécanique de la fibre capillaire (gonflement des cheveux plus poreux). Les cheveux sont affaiblis et peuvent devenir cassants lors de traitements ultérieurs comme des brushings. Ce problème est aggravé lorsque ces traitements sont appliqués sur des fibres kératiniques sensibilisées (i.e. fragilisées). Cette sensibilisation peut résulter de l'action des agents atmosphériques extérieurs tels que la lumière et les intempéries, et par des traitements mécaniques ou chimiques tels que le brossage, le peignage, les teintures, les décolorations, les permanentes et/ou les défrisages.  However, the use of these treatments induces in the long run the deterioration of the quality of the hair fiber. These chemical treatments have the disadvantage of damaging and weakening the hair fiber by causing the disulfide covalent bonding of keratin to rupture. For example, a decrease in the cosmetic properties such as gloss and degradation of the mechanical properties, more particularly a degradation of the mechanical strength of the hair fiber (swelling of the more porous hair) is observed. The hair is weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as brushings. This problem is aggravated when these treatments are applied to sensitized (i.e. weakened) keratin fibers. This sensitization may result from the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and weather, and mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, discoloration, perms and / or straightening.
En outre, ces traitements chimiques s'accompagnent souvent d'odeurs désagréables. De ce fait, de nombreuses personnes aux cheveux bouclés, fri sés ou rebelles souhaitent li sser durabl ement leurs cheveux sans pour autant utili ser des produits de défri sage ou li ssage chimiques . De façon similaire, de nombreuses personnes aux cheveux li sses souhaitent obtenir des boucl es qui tiennent dans l e temps, sans avoir recours à une permanente chimique. In addition, these chemical treatments are often accompanied by unpleasant odors. As a result, many people with curly, frizzy or rebellious hair wish to wear their hair sustainably without using chemical defibrillation or bonding products. Similarly, many loose-lipped persons wish to obtain time-bound loops without resorting to a chemical perm.
Les soins capillaires fixant rincés ne sont pas touj ours suffi sants pour obtenir une mi se en forme durable. De même l 'utili sation de di spositifs de mi se en forme chauffant tels que des fers à fri ser, li sser ou boucler, ou des cheveux ne donne pas non plus entière satisfaction . Lorsque les coiffures sont mouillées ou exposées à des conditions de forte humidité, les cheveux perdent leur mi se en forme et tendent à reprendre rapi dement leur forme initiale.  Hair care fixing rinsed are not always enough to obtain a lasting shape. Likewise, the use of heat-transforming devices such as irons, loosers, curlers, or hair does not give complete satisfaction either. When hairstyles are wet or exposed to conditions of high humidity, the hair loses its shape and tends to quickly return to its original shape.
Certains soins capillaires non rincés pour apporter li ssage et maintien de la chevelure, peuvent présenter en outre l' inconvénient d' apporter un toucher particulier durci ou gras.  Some hair care not rinsed to provide li ssage and maintenance of the hair, may also have the disadvantage of bringing a particular touch hardened or greasy.
Par conséquent, il exi ste un besoin de mettre en œuvre des produits, rincés ou non rincés, qui permettent de faciliter et d' améliorer la mi se en forme des cheveux, notamment le li ssage ou la création de boucle, de manière durable, sans altération chimique et sans conduire à un durci ssement ou à un toucher gras de la fibre capillaire.  Consequently, there is a need to implement products, rinsed or not rinsed, which make it possible to facilitate and improve the hair shaping, in particular the binding or the creation of a loop, in a sustainable way, without chemical alteration and without leading to a hardening or a greasy feel of the hair fiber.
De manière surprenante et avantageuse, la demanderesse a découvert que l'utili sation d' une ou plusieurs silicone(s) élastomère(s) réticulée(s), en association avec de la chaleur, permettait d ' obtenir ces avantages. En particulier, la demanderesse a découvert que l'utili sation d' une ou plusieurs silicone(s) élastomère(s), permettait de mettre en forme des fibres kératiniques de manière efficace et durable notamment dans des conditions d ' humi dité relative élevée (au moins 80% par exemple) ou même après plusieurs lavages, sans altération chimique de la fibre capillaire et sans présenter les inconvénients sus-cités.  Surprisingly and advantageously, the applicant has discovered that the use of one or more crosslinked elastomeric silicone (s), in combination with heat, allowed to obtain these advantages. In particular, the Applicant has discovered that the use of one or more elastomeric silicone (s), allowed to form keratin fibers in an effective and durable manner especially under conditions of high relative humidity ( at least 80% for example) or even after several washes, without chemical alteration of the hair fiber and without the aforementioned disadvantages.
On a ob servé qu' une telle association permettait notamment d' améliorer la mi se en forme (les cheveux sont plus li sses, les boucles sont plus marquées, mieux dessinées), la facilité de mi se en forme et la tenue de la mi se en forme des cheveux, indépendamment de sa nature (caucasien ou européen, asiatique et africain), comparativement aux produits de traitement des cheveux classiques à base de silicone non élastomère, telle que l ' amodiméthicone par exemple. Les coiffures obtenues en mettant en œuvre le procédé selon l ' invention tiennent au moins 24h même dans de forte conditions d' humi dité relative. Les performances coiffantes de lissage ou de mi se en boucles peuvent ainsi persi ster environ une semaine. On peut ainsi effectuer un traitement toutes les semaines pour assurer un effet continu. It has been observed that such an association makes it possible in particular to improve the shape (the hair is looser, the loops are more pronounced, better drawn), the ease of being shaped and the holding of the mid Shaping hair, regardless of its nature (Caucasian or European, Asian and African), compared to conventional non-elastomeric silicone hair treatment products, such as amodimethicone for example. The hairstyles obtained by implementing the process according to the invention take at least 24 hours even under strong conditions of relative humidity. The styling performance of smoothing or loops can thus be maintained for about a week. This can be done weekly to ensure a continuous effect.
En outre, le procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques selon l ' invention est particulièrement avantageux pour mettre en forme des fibres kératiniques sensibili sées sans que ceux-ci soient d' avantage fragili sés ou abîmés et que l e toucher soit altéré.  In addition, the process for treating keratinous fibers according to the invention is particularly advantageous for shaping keratin fibers that are sensitized without these being more fragile or damaged and that the touch is impaired.
Enfin, la présente invention a également pour obj et l ' utili sation d' une ou plusieurs silicone(s) élastomère(s) polyoxyalkylénée(s) et/ou polyglycérolée(s) et un ou plusieurs corps gras non siliconés dans une composition capillaire aqueuse, pour mettre en forme, notamment boucler, fri ser, défri ser, li sser et di scipliner des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, sensibili sées ou non.  Finally, the present invention also relates to the use of one or more polyoxyalkylenated (s) and / or polyglycerolated (s) elastomeric silicone (s) and one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a hair composition. aqueous, for shaping, including curling, fri er, défri ser, li sser and di ciple keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers such as hair, sensitized or not.
D' autres obj ets, caractéri stiques, aspects et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront encore plus clairement à la lecture de l a description et des exemples qui suivent.  Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples.
Selon la présente invention, le procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines, telles que des cheveux, comprend une étape d ' application d' une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs silicone(s) élastomère(s) et au moins une étape simultanée, préalable ou postérieure de traitement thermique desdites fibres kératiniques.  According to the present invention, the process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprises a step of applying a composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicone (s) and at least one a simultaneous, prior or subsequent step of heat treatment of said keratinous fibers.
Suivant l ' ordre des étapes, le traitement thermique s ' effectuera donc en présence ou non de la composition sur les fibres kératiniques. According to the order of the steps, the heat treatment will therefore be carried out in the presence or absence of the composition on the keratinous fibers.
De préférence, on applique d' abord la composition comprenant une ou plusieurs siliconés élastomères selon l' invention sur les fibres kératiniques, pui s on soumet ces fibres à un ou plusieurs traitements thermiques . Lors du ou des traitement(s) thermique(s), la chaleur peut être amenée sur les fibres kératiniques par toute source de chaleur bien connue et habituellement employée dans le domaine capillaire. Preferably, the composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicone according to the invention is first applied to the keratin fibers, and these fibers are subjected to one or more heat treatments. During the heat treatment (s), the heat can be brought to the keratinous fibers by any well known heat source and usually used in the hair field.
A titre de source de chaleur utilisable, on peut utiliser par exemple un ou plusieurs dispositifs chauffants à conduction thermique, à rayonnements infrarouges et/ou à convection thermique. La chaleur peut ainsi être amenée sur les fibres kératiniques par contact du ou des dispositifs chauffants avec les fibres kératiniques, par rayonnements infrarouges et/ou par convection d'air chaud.  As a usable heat source, one can use for example one or more heating devices with thermal conduction, infrared radiation and / or thermal convection. The heat can thus be fed to the keratinous fibers by contact with the heating device (s) with the keratinous fibers, by infrared radiation and / or convection of hot air.
Lors du ou des traitement(s) thermique(s), la température des fibres kératiniques est portée à au moins 40°C, et plus préférentiellement à au moins 150°C. Selon un mode de réalisation préféré selon l'invention, la température des fibres kératiniques est portée à une température allant de 40 à 250°C plus préférentiellement 150 à 250°C, et mieux encore de 150 à 220°C. Selon un autre mode de réalisation selon l'invention, la température des fibres kératiniques est portée à une température allant de 40 à 65°C, notamment lorsqu'un dispositif chauffant à convection thermique ou un dispositif chauffant à rayonnements infrarouges est mis en oeuvre.  During the heat treatment (s), the temperature of the keratinous fibers is raised to at least 40 ° C, and more preferably to at least 150 ° C. According to a preferred embodiment according to the invention, the temperature of the keratinous fibers is brought to a temperature ranging from 40 to 250 ° C., more preferably 150 to 250 ° C., and more preferably from 150 to 220 ° C. According to another embodiment of the invention, the temperature of the keratinous fibers is brought to a temperature ranging from 40 to 65 ° C., especially when a thermal convection heating device or an infrared radiation heating device is used.
De préférence, le procédé selon l'invention est un procédé de mise en forme des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines, telles que des cheveux.  Preferably, the process according to the invention is a process for shaping keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as hair.
Le procédé selon l'invention peut alors comprendre en outre une étape de mise en forme des fibres kératiniques. Cette étape peut être distincte de l'étape ou des étapes de traitement thermique des fibres kératiniques ou être réalisée simultanément à une étape de traitement thermique.  The method according to the invention may then further comprise a step of shaping the keratinous fibers. This step may be distinct from the heat treatment stage or stages of the keratinous fibers or may be carried out simultaneously at a heat treatment stage.
La mise en forme des fibres kératiniques peut être réalisée à la main, par exemple en enroulant une mèche de cheveux entre les doigts pour former une boucle, ou à l'aide d'un ou plusieurs dispositifs de mise en forme mécaniques, tels que des pinces ou des bigoudis.  The shaping of the keratin fibers may be carried out by hand, for example by wrapping a lock of hair between the fingers to form a loop, or by means of one or more mechanical shaping devices, such as tweezers or curlers.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré selon l'invention, l'étape de mise en forme des fibres kératiniques est réalisée simultanément à une étape de traitement thermique. Dans ce cas, le traitement thermique est mis en œuvre à l'aide d'un ou plusieurs dispositif(s) chauffant(s) à conduction thermique capable(s) de traiter thermiquement les fibres kératiniques et de les mettre en forme simultanément. On parle alors de dispositifs de mise en forme chauffant. According to a preferred embodiment according to the invention, the step of shaping the keratinous fibers is carried out simultaneously with a heat treatment step. In this case, the heat treatment is implemented using one or more heat conductive heating device (s) capable (s) of heat-treating keratin fibers and simultaneously shaping them. This is called heating shaping devices.
Lors de l'application d'un dispositif de mise en forme chauffant sur les fibres kératiniques, la ou les surfaces de contact dudit dispositif avec les fibres kératiniques peuvent se présenter sous différentes formes, selon la forme de la déformation souhaitée. La ou les surfaces de contact peuvent par exemple être plates (plaques lissantes) pour obtenir un lissage ou rondes (fer à boucler) pour obtenir des boucles. Elle(s) peu(ven)t aussi revêtir toute forme utile pour obtenir un crêpage, gaufrage, frisage ou toute forme originale souhaitée. De préférence, le dispositif chauffant comporte deux surfaces de contact avec les fibres kératiniques. Dans ce cas, les deux surfaces de contact ont préférentiellement des formes complémentaires, identiques ou différentes, superposables l'une sur l'autre. Il peut s'agit par exemple de deux surfaces plates ou d'une surface présentant au moins une partie concave et d'une surface présentant au moins une partie convexe.  When applying a heating shaping device to the keratinous fibers, the contact surface or surfaces of said device with the keratin fibers may be in various forms, depending on the shape of the desired deformation. The contact surface or surfaces may for example be flat (smoothing plates) to obtain a smoothing or round (curling iron) to obtain loops. It (s) can also take any form useful for creping, embossing, crimping or any desired original shape. Preferably, the heating device comprises two contact surfaces with the keratinous fibers. In this case, the two contact surfaces preferably have complementary forms, identical or different, superimposed on one another. This may for example be two flat surfaces or a surface having at least one concave portion and a surface having at least one convex portion.
De préférence, on utilise comme dispositif de mise en forme chauffant un fer à lisser ou un fer à boucler éventuellement associé à une source de vapeur d'eau.  Preferably, a heating iron is used as a shaping iron or a curling iron possibly associated with a source of steam.
L'application du fer peut se faire par touches séparées successives de quelques secondes, ou par déplacement ou glissement progressif le long des mèches de cheveux.  The application of iron can be done by successive separate keys of a few seconds, or by moving or sliding progressively along the locks of hair.
Lorsqu'un dispositif de mise en forme chauffant est mis en œuvre, la surface de contact du dispositif chauffant avec les fibres kératiniques présente une température supérieure ou égale à 40°C, allant de préférence de 40 à 250°C, préférentiellement de 150 à 250°C, et mieux encore de 150 à 220°C.  When a heating shaping device is used, the contact surface of the heating device with the keratin fibers has a temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C., preferably ranging from 40 to 250 ° C., preferably from 150 to 250 ° C, and more preferably 150 to 220 ° C.
De préférence, le procédé de l'invention est mis en oeuvre avec un fer avec une température allant de 150 à 250°C, et plus préférentiellement allant de 150 à 220°C.  Preferably, the process of the invention is carried out with an iron with a temperature ranging from 150 to 250 ° C., and more preferably ranging from 150 to 220 ° C.
Le procédé selon l'invention peut comprendre en outre une ou plusieurs étapes de rinçage, séchage non thermique, coiffage des fibres kératiniques, par exemple à l'aide d'un peigne ou d'une brosse à cheveux. The process according to the invention may further comprise one or more rinsing steps, non-thermal drying, capping of the fibers keratinous, for example using a comb or a hairbrush.
Lorsque la composition utilisée selon l'invention est une composition rincée, l'étape d'application de la composition sur les fibres kératiniques est suivie, après un éventuel temps de pose, d'une étape de rinçage suivie éventuellement d'une étape de séchage et/ou brossage des fibres kératiniques, avant traitement thermique des fibres kératiniques.  When the composition used according to the invention is a rinsed composition, the step of applying the composition to the keratinous fibers is followed, after a possible exposure time, with a rinsing step optionally followed by a drying step. and / or brushing keratin fibers, before thermal treatment of keratinous fibers.
Le durée du temps de pose peut varier de 1 à 10 minutes, de préférence de 2 à 5 minutes.  The duration of the exposure time can vary from 1 to 10 minutes, preferably from 2 to 5 minutes.
Lorsque la composition utilisée selon l'invention est une composition non rincée, la composition n'est pas rincée après son application.  When the composition used according to the invention is a non-rinsed composition, the composition is not rinsed after its application.
Le séchage des fibres kératiniques peut être réalisé à l'aide d'une serviette ou par essorage à la main, à température ambiante.  Drying of the keratinous fibers can be carried out with a towel or by spinning by hand at room temperature.
Dans un mode de réalisation particulièrement préféré selon l'invention, le procédé de traitement, et en particulier de mise en forme, des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines, telles que des cheveux, comprend une étape d'application d'une composition comprenant au moins une silicone élastomère et au moins deux étapes de traitements thermiques. De préférence, au moins une des étapes de traitement thermique est mise en œuvre avant la mise en forme des fibres kératiniques et au moins une des étapes de traitement thermique est mise en œuvre postérieurement ou simultanément à la mise en forme des fibres kératiniques.  In a particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, the process for treating, and in particular shaping, keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprises a step of applying a composition comprising at least one elastomeric silicone and at least two heat treatment stages. Preferably, at least one of the heat treatment steps is carried out before shaping the keratinous fibers and at least one of the heat treatment steps is carried out after or simultaneously with the shaping of the keratinous fibers.
Ces étapes de traitement thermique peuvent être réalisées à l'aide d'une ou plusieurs sources de chaleur telles que définies précédemment, identiques ou différentes. Le procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques selon l'invention peut ainsi comprendre par exemple au moins une étape de traitement thermique réalisé à l'aide d'un dispositif chauffant à convection thermique ou un dispositif chauffant à rayonnements infrarouges, et au moins une étape de traitement thermique réalisée à l'aide de dispositif(s) de mise en forme chauffant(s). Les températures appliquées aux différentes étapes de traitement thermique selon le procédé selon l ' invention, sont choi sies comme défini précédemment et peuvent être identiques ou différentes. De préférence, les températures appliquées à chaque étape de traitement thermique vont de manière croi ssante. Ainsi, on applique à chaque traitement thermique une température supérieure à la température appliquée lors de l ' étape de traitement thermique précédente. Le premi er traitement thermique appliqué soumet les fibres kératiniques à une température plus basse que le deuxième traitement thermique appliqué. These heat treatment steps can be performed using one or more heat sources as defined above, identical or different. The process for treating keratinous fibers according to the invention may thus comprise, for example, at least one heat treatment step carried out using a thermal convection heating device or an infrared radiation heating device, and at least one step of heat treatment carried out using heating device (s) heating (s). The temperatures applied to the various heat treatment steps according to the process according to the invention are selected as defined above and may be identical or different. Preferably, the temperatures applied at each heat treatment stage are increasing. Thus, each heat treatment is applied a temperature higher than the temperature applied during the preceding heat treatment step. The first heat treatment applied subjects the keratin fibers to a lower temperature than the second heat treatment applied.
Selon un premier mode de mi se en œuvre préféré, le procédé de traitement et en particulier de mi se en forme des fibres kératiniques selon l ' invention comprend les étapes suivantes dans l ' ordre suivant : application de la composition comportant une ou plusieurs silicones élastomères telles que définies précédemment, sur les fibres kératiniques,  According to a first preferred embodiment, the process for treating and in particular for forming keratinous fibers according to the invention comprises the following steps in the following order: application of the composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicones as defined above, on keratinous fibers,
rinçage de la composition à l ' eau après un temps de pause éventuel, séchage total ou partiel des fibres kératiniques ou traitement thermique des fibres kératiniques à une température allant de 40°C à 65 °C,  rinsing the composition with water after a possible pause time, total or partial drying of the keratinous fibers or heat treatment of the keratinous fibers at a temperature ranging from 40 ° C to 65 ° C,
- coiffage éventuel des fibres kératiniques, - Possible hairstyling of keratinous fibers,
- mi se en forme des fibres kératiniques à l ' aide d'un moyen de mi se en forme chauffant tel que défini précédemment à une température allant de préférence de 1 50 à 250°C, et préférentiell ement de 1 50 à 250°C, encore plus préférentiellement de 1 50 à 220°C .  Keratinous fibers are formed by means of a heating medium as defined above at a temperature preferably ranging from 150 ° to 250 ° C., and preferably from 150 ° to 250 ° C. more preferably from 150 to 220 ° C.
Le temps de pause de l a composition avec silicone(s) élastomère(s) peut aller de 1 à 1 0 minutes, de préférence de 2 à 5 minutes.  The residence time of the composition with silicone (s) elastomer (s) can range from 1 to 10 minutes, preferably from 2 to 5 minutes.
Selon un second mode de mise en œuvre préféré, le procédé de traitement et en particulier de mi se en forme des fibres kératiniques selon l ' invention comprend les étapes suivantes dans l ' ordre suivant : application de la composition comportant une ou plusieurs silicones élastomères telles que définies précédemment, sur les fibres kératiniques,  According to a second preferred embodiment, the process for treating and in particular forming keratinous fibers according to the invention comprises the following steps in the following order: application of the composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicones such as than previously defined, on keratinous fibers,
sans rinçage intermédiaire, coiffage éventuel des fibres kératiniques, without intermediate rinsing, possible styling of keratinous fibers,
- traitement thermique et mise en forme simultanée des fibres kératiniques à l'aide d'un moyen de mise en forme chauffant tel que défini précédemment à une température allant de préférence de 150 à 250°C, et préférentiellement de 150 à 250°C, encore plus préférentiellement de 150 à 220°C. heat treatment and simultaneous shaping of the keratinous fibers by means of a heating shaping means as defined above at a temperature preferably ranging from 150 to 250 ° C., and preferably from 150 to 250 ° C., still more preferably from 150 to 220 ° C.
La composition utilisée selon l'invention est de préférence une composition aqueuse, de préférence comprenant de 5% à 99,9% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 50 à 99,9% en poids, mieux de 70% à 98,5 % en poids, et mieux encore de 80 à 95 % en poids d'eau, par rapport au poids total de la composition.  The composition used according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition, preferably comprising from 5% to 99.9% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 99.9% by weight, better still from 70% to 98.5% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 80 to 95% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition aqueuse peut comprendre un ou plusieurs solvants organiques, choisi de préférence parmi les alcools inférieurs en C1-C4; les polyols en C3-C20; les éthers de polyols en C3-C20; les alcanes en C5-C10 ; et leurs mélanges. The aqueous composition may comprise one or more organic solvents, preferably chosen from C 1 -C 4 lower alcohols; C3-C20 polyols; C3-C20 polyol ethers; C5-C10 alkanes; and their mixtures.
Par "silicone élastomère'Ou « élastomère de silicone », on entend un organopolysiloxane partiellement ou totalement réticulé, formant un matériau souple et déformable, possédant des propriétés viscoélastiques. Son module d'élasticité est tel que ce matériau résiste à la déformation et possède une capacité limitée à l'extension et à la contraction. Ce matériau est capable de retrouver sa forme originelle après déformation sous contrainte par exemple suite à un étirement.  By "silicone elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a partially or totally crosslinked organopolysiloxane, forming a flexible and deformable material, having viscoelastic properties, its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction.This material is able to recover its original shape after stress deformation, for example following stretching.
L'élastomère de silicone utilisé selon l'invention est de préférence un organopolysiloxane élastomère réticulé comprenant au moins une chaîne hydrophile, cette chaîne pouvant être notamment polyoxyalkylénée ou polyglycérolée. L'élastomère de silicone peut être choisi parmi les élastomères de silicone polyoxyalkylénés et les élastomères de silicone polyglycérolés.  The silicone elastomer used according to the invention is preferably a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrophilic chain, this chain possibly being in particular polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated. The silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
L'élastomère de silicone polyoxyalkylénée est un organopolysiloxane réticulé polyoxyalkyléné qui peut être obtenu par réaction d'addition réticulation d'un diorganopolysiloxane contenant au moins deux atomes d'hydrogène liés chacun à un silicium et positionnés l'un par rapport à l'autre en a et ω de la chaîne siliconée, (Al), et d'un composé ayant au moins deux groupements à insaturation éthylénique (Bl), notamment en présence d'un catalyseur (Cl), notamment d'un catalyseur platine, et dont au moins un des composés (Al) ou (Bl) est polyoxyalkyléné, comme par exemple décrit dans les documents US-A- 5,236,986 et US-A-5,412,004. The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon and positioned relative to one another. a and ω of the silicone chain, (Al), and a compound having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. (B1), especially in the presence of a catalyst (C1), in particular a platinum catalyst, and at least one of the compounds (A1) or (B1) is polyoxyalkylenated, as for example described in documents US-A- 5,236,986 and US-A-5,412,004.
Le composé (Al) est le composé de base pour la formation d'organopolysiloxane élastomère, et la réticulation s'effectue par réaction d'addition du composé (Al) avec le composé (Bl) en présence du catalyseur (Cl).  The compound (Al) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (Al) with the compound (Bl) in the presence of the catalyst (Cl).
Le composé (Bl) est avantageusement un organopolysiloxane oxyéthyléné et/ou oxypropyléné comportant au moins deux groupes vinyliques en position -ω de la chaîne siliconée, qui vont réagir avec des liaisons Si-H du composé (Al).  The compound (B1) is advantageously an oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated organopolysiloxane comprising at least two vinyl groups in the -ω position of the silicone chain, which will react with Si-H bonds of the compound (Al).
Le composé (Bl) peut être notamment un organopolysiloxane polyoxyalkyléné (notamment polyoxyéthyléné et/ou polyoxypropyléné) à terminaisons diméthylvinylsiloxy.  The compound (B1) can in particular be a polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) organopolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings.
Les groupes organiques liés aux atomes de silicium du composé (Al), identiques ou différents, peuvent être des groupes alkyles, linéaires ou ramifiés, ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone, tels que méthyl, éthyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, décyl, dodécyl (ou lauryl), myristyl, cétyl, stéaryl ; des groupes alkyles, linéaires ou ramifiés, substitués, de préférence par un ou plusieurs groupes aryles ou halogènes, et ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone, tels que 2-phényléthyl, 2-phénylpropyl, 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl ; des groupes aryles ou alkylaryles, ayant de préférence de 1 à 18 atomes de carbones, tels que phényl, tolyl, xylyl, phényléthyl ; et des groupes hydrocarbonés monovalents, ayant de préférence de 1 à 18 atomes de carbones, comportant un ou plusieurs groupes époxy, ester carboxylate, et/ou mercapto. Ces groupes peuvent éventuellement être oxyéthyléné et/ou oxypropyléné.  The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A1), which may be identical or different, may be linear or branched alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl or decyl. dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl, stearyl; linear or branched alkyl groups substituted, preferably with one or more aryl or halogen groups, and having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl or alkylaryl groups, preferably having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, phenylethyl; and monovalent hydrocarbon groups, preferably having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, having one or more epoxy, carboxylate ester, and / or mercapto groups. These groups may optionally be oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated.
Le composé (Al) peut ainsi être choisi parmi les méthylhydrogénopolysiloxanes à terminaisons triméthylsiloxy, les copolymères diméthylsiloxane-méthylhydrogénosiloxane à terminaisons triméthylsiloxy, les copolymères cycliques diméthylsiloxane- méthylhydrogénosiloxane, les copolymères diméthylsiloxane- méthylhydrogénosiloxane-laurylméthyl siloxane à terminai sons triméthylsiloxy . The compound (Al) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers and the like. methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethyl siloxane with trimethylsiloxy ends.
Le composé (C l ) est le catalyseur de la réaction de réticulation, et est notamment l'acide chloroplatinique, les complexes acide chloroplatinique-oléfine, les complexes acide chloroplatinique- alkényl siloxane, les complexes acide chloroplatinique-dicétone, le platine noir, et le platine sur support.  Compound (C 1) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenyl siloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support.
Le catalyseur (C l ) est de préférence aj outé en une quantité de 0, 1 à 1000 parts en poids, mieux de 1 à 100 parts en poids, en tant que métal platine pour 1000 parts en poids de la quantité totale des composés (A l ) et (B l ) .  The catalyst (C 1) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as the platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds ( A l) and (B l).
En particulier, l'élastomère de silicone polyoxyalkyléné peut être obtenu par réaction de polyoxyalkyléné (notamment polyoxyéthylène et/ou polyoxypropylène) à terminai sons diméthylvinyl siloxy et de méthylhydrogénopolysiloxane à terminai sons triméthyl siloxy, en présence de catalyseur platine.  In particular, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinyl siloxy end-groups and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy ends, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
L'élastomère de silicone polyoxyalkyléné selon l ' invention est de préférence un élastomère de silicone polyoxyéthyléné.  The polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably a polyoxyethylenated silicone elastomer.
En outre, l'élastomère de silicone polyoxyalkyl éné est de préférence véhiculé sous forme de gel dans au moins une huile hydrocarbonée et/ou une huile siliconée . Dans ces gel s, l'élastomère polyoxyalkyléné est souvent sous forme de particules non- sphériques.  In addition, the polyoxyalkyl silicone elastomer is preferably conveyed in gel form in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gel s, the polyoxyalkylene elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
Des élastomères de silicone polyoxyalkylénés sont notamment décrits dans les documents US-A-5 ,236,986, US-A-5 ,412, 004, US-A- 5 , 837, 793 , US-A-5 , 8 1 1 ,487 dont le contenu est incorporé par référence.  Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers are described in US-A-5, 236,986, US-A-5, 412, 004, US-A-5, 837, 793, US-A-5, 811, 487 and the like. whose contents are incorporated by reference.
A titre d' élastomères de silicone polyoxyéthylénés utili sables, on peut citer par exemple ceux commerciali sés par la société Shin Etsu, sous les dénominations :  As polyoxyethylenated silicone elastomers that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of those sold by Shin Etsu, under the names:
- KSG-21 (à 27 % en poids en matière active. Nom INCI : Dimethicone /PEG- 10 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-21 (27% by weight of active ingredient INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),
- KSG-20 (à 95% en poids en matière active. Nom INCI : PEG- 1 0 Dimethicone Crosspolymer), KSG-20 (95% by weight of active ingredient, INCI name: PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer),
- KSG-30, (à 100 % en poids en matière active. Nom INCI : Lauryl PEG- 1 5 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-31 (à 25 % en poids en matière active. Nom INCI : Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-30, (100% by weight of active ingredient INCI name: Lauryl PEG-1 5 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-31 (25% by weight of active ingredient INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),
- KSG-32 ou KSG-42 ou KSG-320 ou KSG-30 (à 25 % en poids en matière active. Nom INCI : Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),  - KSG-32 or KSG-42 or KSG-320 or KSG-30 (25% by weight of active ingredient INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer),
- KSG-33 (à 20 % en poids en matière active),  - KSG-33 (at 20% by weight of active ingredient),
- KSG-210 (à 25 % en poids en matière active. Nom INCI : Dimethicone /PEG-10/15 crosspolymer),  - KSG-210 (25% by weight of active ingredient INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer),
- KSG-310 : Polydimethylsiloxane polyoxyéthyléné réticulé modifié lauryle dans de l'huile minérale (minerai oil),  KSG-310: Polyoxyethylenated crosslinked polyimethylsiloxane modified lauryl in mineral oil (ore oil),
- KSG-330,  - KSG-330,
- KSG-340,  - KSG-340,
- X-226146 (à 32 % en poids en matière active. Nom INCI : Dimethicone /PEG-10 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), ou ceux commercialisés par la société Dow Corning sous les dénominations :  X-226146 (at 32% by weight of active ingredient, INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), or those marketed by Dow Corning under the names:
- DC9010 (à 9% en poids en matière active. Nom INCI : PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer)  - DC9010 (9% by weight of active ingredient INCI name: PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer)
- DC9011 (à 11% en poids en matière active).  DC9011 (at 11% by weight of active material).
Ces produits se présentent généralement sous forme de gels huileux contenant les particules d'élastomère de silicone.  These products are generally in the form of oily gels containing the silicone elastomer particles.
On utilise de préférence l'élastomère de silicone commercialisé sous le nom KSG-210 (Nom INCI : Dimethicone /PEG-10/15 crosspolymer) qui est compris à 25% en poids en matière active dans de l'huile de silicone.  The silicone elastomer marketed under the name KSG-210 (INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer) which is comprised at 25% by weight of active material in silicone oil is preferably used.
L'élastomère de silicone peut être également choisi parmi les élastomères de silicone polyglycérolés.  The silicone elastomer may also be chosen from polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
L'élastomère de silicone polyglycérolé est un organopolysiloxane réticulé polyglycérolé pouvant être obtenu notamment par réaction d'addition réticulation d'un diorganopolysiloxane contenant au moins deux atomes d'hydrogène lié chacun à un silicium (A2) et d'un composé polyglycérolé ayant des groupements à insaturation éthylénique (B2), notamment en présence de catalyseur (C2), notamment de catalyseur platine. En particulier, l'organopolysiloxane réticulé polyglycérolé peut être obtenu par réaction de composé polyglycérolé à terminaisons diméthylvinylsiloxy et de méthylhydrogéno-polysiloxane à terminaisons triméthylsiloxy, en présence de catalyseur platine. The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane obtainable in particular by addition reaction crosslinking a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon (A2) and a polyglycerolated compound having groups ethylenically unsaturated (B2), especially in the presence of catalyst (C2), in particular platinum catalyst. In particular, the crosslinked polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerol compound and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogen polysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.
Le composé (A2) est le composé de base pour la formation d'organopolysiloxane élastomère, et la réticulation s'effectue par réaction d'addition du composé (A2) avec le composé (B2) en présence du catalyseur (C2).  The compound (A2) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A2) with the compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2).
Le composé (A2) est en particulier un organopolysiloxane ayant au moins 2 atomes d'hydrogène liés à des atomes de silicium distincts et positionnés l'un par rapport à l'autre en a et ω de la chaîne siliconée. Le composé (A2) peut avoir une viscosité à 25 °C allant de 1 à 50 000 centistokes, notamment pour être bien miscible avec le composé (B2).  The compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms and positioned relative to one another at a and ω of the silicone chain. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with compound (B2).
Les groupes organiques liés aux atomes de silicium du composé (A2) peuvent être des groupes alkyles ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone, tels que méthyl, éthyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, décyl, dodécyl (ou lauryl), myristyl, cétyl, stéaryl ; des groupes alkyles substitués tels que 2-phényléthyl, 2-phénylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl ; des groupes aryles tels que phényl, tolyl, xylyl ; des groupes aryles substitués tels que phényléthyl ; et des groupes hydrocarbonés monovalents substitués tels qu'un groupe époxy, un groupe ester carboxylate, ou un groupe mercapto. De préférence, ledit groupe organique est choisi parmi les groupes méthyl, phényl, lauryl. Ces groupes peuvent éventuellement être oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés.  The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A2) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups. These groups may optionally be oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated.
Le composé (A2) peut ainsi être choisi parmi les méthylhydrogénopolysiloxanes à terminaisons triméthylsiloxy, les copolymères diméthylsiloxane-méthylhydrogénosiloxane à terminaisons triméthylsiloxy, les copolymères cycliques diméthylsiloxane- méthylhydrogénosiloxane, les copolymères diméthylsiloxane- méthylhydrogénosiloxane-laurylméthylsiloxane à terminaisons triméthylsiloxy.  The compound (A2) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.
Le composé (B2) peut être un composé polyglycérolé répondant à la formule (B'2) suivante :  The compound (B2) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the following formula (B'2):
CmH(2m-l)-0-[ Gly ]n- CmH(2m-l) (B'2) C m H (2m-l) -0- [Gly] n - C m H (2m-l) (B'2)
dans laquelle m est un entier allant de 2 à 6, n est un entier allant de 2 à 200, de préférence de 2 à 100, plus préférentiellement de 2 à 50, notamment de 2 à 20, mieux de 2 à 10, et encore mieux de 2 à 5 , et en particulier n est égal à 3 ; Gly désigne :  in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, more preferably from 2 to 50, in particular from 2 to 20, better still from 2 to 10, and even preferably from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3; Gly means:
-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-0- ou -CH2-CH(CH2OH)-0--CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 -O- or -CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O-
Avantageusement, la somme du nombre de groupements éthyléniques par molécule du composé (B2) et du nombre d'atomes d'hydrogène liés à des atomes de silicium par molécule du composé (A2) est d'au moins 4. Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A2) is at least 4.
Il est avantageux que le composé (A2) soit aj outé en une quantité telle que le rapport molécul aire entre la quantité totale d'atomes d'hydrogène liés à des atomes de silicium dans le composé (A2) et la quantité totale de tous les groupements à insaturation éthylénique dans le composé (B2) soit compri s dans la gamme de 1 / 1 à 20/ 1 .  It is advantageous for the compound (A2) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A2) and the total amount of all the Ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B2) are in the range of 1: 1 to 20: 1.
Le composé (C2) est le catalyseur de la réaction de réticulation, et est notamment l'acide chloroplatinique, les complexes acide chloroplatinique-oléfine, les complexes acide chloroplatinique- alkényl siloxane, les complexes acide chloroplatinique-dicétone, le platine noir, et le platine sur support.  Compound (C2) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenyl siloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support.
Le catalyseur (C2) est de préférence aj outé en une quantité de 0, 1 à 1000 parts en poids, mieux de 1 à 100 parts en poids, en tant que métal platine propre pour 1000 parts en poids de la quantité totale des composés (A2) et (B2) .  The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as the pure platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds ( A2) and (B2).
La silicone élastomère polyglycérolée selon l ' invention est généralement mélangée avec au moins une huile hydrocarbonée et/ou une huile siliconée pour former un gel . Dans ces gels, l'élastomère polyglycérolé est souvent sous forme de particules non-sphériques .  The polyglycerolated elastomer silicone according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
De tel s élastomères sont notamment décrits dans le document WO-A-2004/024798.  Such elastomers are described in particular in document WO-A-2004/024798.
Comme élastomères de silicone polyglycérolés, on peut utili ser ceux vendus sous les dénominations suivantes par la société Shin Etsu :  As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, those sold under the following names by Shin Etsu can be used:
- KSG-710, (à 25% en matière active. Nom INCI : Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer), - KSG-810, - KSG-710, (25% active ingredient, INCI name: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer), - KSG-810,
- KSG-820,  - KSG-820,
- KSG-830,  - KSG-830,
- KSG-840.  - KSG-840.
La ou les silicone(s) élastomère(s) utilisée(s) selon l'invention est (sont) de préférence polyoxyéthylénée(s).  The silicone (s) elastomer (s) used (s) according to the invention is (are) preferably polyoxyethylenated (s).
La composition utilisée selon l'invention peut comprendre de préférence de 0,1 à 10% en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 0,2 à 5% en poids, mieux de 0,5 à 2% en poids de silicone(s) élastomère(s) telle(s) que définie(s) ci-dessus, par rapport au poids total de la composition.  The composition used according to the invention may preferably comprise from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight of silicone (s) elastomer. (s) as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition peut comprendre en plus de la ou des silicone(s) élastomère(s) utilisée(s) selon l'invention, un ou plusieurs corps gras non siliconés.  The composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more non-silicone fatty substances.
Par « corps gras », on entend un composé organique insoluble dans l'eau à température ordinaire (25 °C) et à pression atmosphérique (760 mm de Hg, soit 1,013.105 Pa), c'est-à-dire de solubilité inférieure à 5 % en poids et de préférence inférieure à 1 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement inférieure à 0,1 % en poids. Les corps gras présentent généralement dans leur structure une chaîne hydrocarbonée comportant au moins 6 atomes de carbone. En outre, les corps gras sont généralement solubles dans des solvants organiques dans les mêmes conditions de température et de pression, comme par exemple le chloroforme, l'éthanol, le benzène, l'huile de vaseline ou le décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane. By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), that is to say of lower solubility. 5% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. The fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
Par « corps gras non siliconé », on entend un corps gras dont la structure ne comporte pas plus d'un atome de silicium.  By "non-silicone fatty substance" is meant a fatty substance whose structure does not contain more than one silicon atom.
Les corps gras utilisables dans la composition selon l'invention ne sont pas polyoxyalkylénés ou polyglycérolés.  The fatty substances that can be used in the composition according to the invention are not polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated.
De préférence, les corps gras non siliconés sont choisis parmi les hydrocarbures, les alcools gras, les acides gras non salifiés, les esters gras, les éthers gras, les cires non siliconées et leurs mélanges. Encore plus préférentiellement, ils sont choisis parmi les hydrocarbures, les alcools gras, les esters gras, les céramides, et leurs mélanges. Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty esters, fatty ethers, non-silicone waxes and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, they are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
Ils peuvent être liquides ou non liquides à température ambiante (25°C) et à pression atmosphérique.  They can be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure.
Les corps gras liquides utilisables selon l'invention présentent de préférence une viscosité inférieure ou égale à 2 Pa.s, mieux inférieure ou égale à 1 Pa.s, et encore mieux inférieure ou égale à 0,1 Pa.s, à la température de 25 °C et à un taux de cisaillement de 1 s"1. The liquid fatty substances which can be used according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better than or equal to 1 Pa.s, and even more preferably less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s, at the temperature. at 25 ° C and at a shear rate of 1 s -1 .
Par « hydrocarbure liquide », on entend un hydrocarbure composé uniquement d'atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène, liquide à température ordinaire (25 °C) et à pression atmosphérique (760 mm de Hg, soit 1,013.105 Pa), notamment d'origine minérale ou végétale, de préférence d'origine végétale. By "liquid hydrocarbon" is meant a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), especially mineral or vegetable origin, preferably of plant origin.
Plus particulièrement, les hydrocarbures liquides sont choisis parmi :  More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:
- les alcanes en C6-Ci6 linéaires ou ramifiés, éventuellement cycliques. A titre d'exemples, on peut citer l'hexane, l'undécane, le dodécane, le tridécane et les isoparaffines comme l'isohexadécane, l'isododécane et l'isodécane, linear or branched C 6 -C 16 alkanes, which are optionally cyclic. By way of examples, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,
- les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale animale ou synthétique, de plus de 16 atomes de carbone, tels que les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, la vaseline, l'huile de vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que celui vendu sous la marque Parléam® par la société NOF CORPORATION, le squalane.  linear or branched hydrocarbons of animal or synthetic mineral origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such that sold under the Parléam® brand by NOF CORPORATION, the squalane.
Dans une variante préférée, le ou les hydrocarbures liquides sont choisis parmi les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et l'huile de vaseline.  In a preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from paraffin oils, volatile or otherwise, and petrolatum oil.
Par « alcool gras liquide », on entend un alcool gras non glycérolé et non oxyalkyléné, liquide à température ordinaire (25 °C) et à pression atmosphérique (760 mm de Hg, soit 1,013.105 Pa). By "liquid fatty alcohol" is meant a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa).
De préférence, les alcools gras liquides de l'invention comportent de 8 à 50 atomes de carbone. Les alcools gras liquides de l'invention peuvent être saturés ou insaturés. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 50 carbon atoms. The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.
Les alcools gras liquides saturés sont de préférence ramifiés. Ils peuvent éventuellement comprendre dans leur structure au moins un cycle aromatique ou non. De préférence, ils sont acycliques.  Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.
Plus particulièrement, les alcools gras saturés liquides de l'invention sont choisis parmi l'octyldodécanol, l'alcool isostéarylique, le 2-hexyldécanol.  More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
L'octyldodécanol est tout particulièrement préféré.  Octyldodecanol is particularly preferred.
Les alcools gras insaturés liquides présentent dans leur structure au moins une double ou triple liaison, et de préférence, une ou plusieurs doubles liaisons. Lorsque plusieurs doubles liaisons sont présentes, elles sont de préférence au nombre de 2 ou 3 et elles peuvent être ou non conjuguées.  The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When more than one double bond is present, it is preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated.
Ces alcools gras insaturés peuvent être linéaires ou ramifiés. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.
Ils peuvent éventuellement comprendre dans leur structure au moins un cycle aromatique ou non. De préférence, ils sont acycliques. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.
Plus particulièrement, les alcools gras insaturés liquides de l'invention sont choisis parmi l'alcool oléique (ou oléylique), l'alcool linoléique (ou linoléylique), l'alcool linolénique (ou linolénylique) et l'alcool undécylénique.  More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenic alcohol.
L'alcool oléique est tout particulièrement préféré.  Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred.
Les acides gras peuvent être choisis parmi les acides de formule RCOOH, où R est un groupe saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de préférence de 7 à 39 atomes de carbone.  The fatty acids may be chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, where R is a saturated or unsaturated group, linear or branched, preferably containing from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.
De préférence, R est un groupement alkyle en C7-C29 ou alkényle en C7-C29, mieux un groupement alkyle en C12-C24 ou alkényle en Ci2-C24- R peut être substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxy et/ou un ou plusieurs groupes carboxyle.  Preferably, R is a C7-C29 alkyl or C7-C29 alkenyl group, more preferably a C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24-R alkenyl group may be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups and / or one or more carboxyl groups.
L'acide gras peut être en particulier choisi parmi l'acide laurique, l'acide tridécanoïque, l'acide myristique, l'acide palmitique, l'acide oléique, l'acide linoléique, et l'acide stéarique. Ces acides gras doivent être non salifiés afin de ne pas donner naissances à des savons qui sont généralement hydrosolubles ou hydrodispersibles. The fatty acid may in particular be chosen from lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and stearic acid. These fatty acids must be non-salified so as not to give birth to soaps that are generally water-soluble or water-dispersible.
Par « ester gras liquide », on entend un ester issu d'un acide gras et/ou d'un alcool gras, liquide à température ordinaire (25 °C) et à pression atmosphérique (760 mm de Hg, soit 1,013.105 Pa). By "liquid fatty ester" is meant an ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). .
Les esters sont de préférence les esters liquides de mono- ou polyacides aliphatiques saturés ou insaturés, linéaires ou ramifiés, en Ci-C26 et les esters liquides de mono- ou polyalcools aliphatiques saturés ou insaturés, linéaires ou ramifiés, en C1-C26, le nombre total d'atomes de carbone des esters liquides étant supérieur ou égal à 10. The esters are preferably the liquid esters of linear or branched C 1 -C 6 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids and the liquid esters of linear or branched C 1 - saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols. C 26 , the total number of carbon atoms of the liquid esters being greater than or equal to 10.
De préférence, pour les esters de monoalcools, l'un au moins de l'alcool ou de l'acide dont sont issus les esters de l'invention est ramifié.  Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
Parmi les monoesters de monoacides et de monoalcools, on peut citer les palmitates d'éthyle et d'isopropyle, les myristates d'alkyle tels que le myristate d'isopropyle ou d'éthyle, le stéarate d'isocétyle, l'isononanoate de 2-éthylhexyle, le néopentanoate d'isodécyle, le néopentanoate d'isostéaryle, et l'isononoate d'isononyle.  Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of 2 ethylhexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and isononyl isononoate.
On peut également utiliser les esters d'acides di- ou tricarboxyliques en C4-C22 et d'alcools en C1-C22 et les esters d'acides mono-, di- ou tricarboxyliques et d'alcools non-sucres di-, tri-, tétra- ou pentahydroxylés en C4-C26- On peut notamment citer le sébacate de diéthyle, le sébacate de diisopropyle, le sébacate de di(2-éthylhexyle), l'adipate de diisopropyle, l'adipate de di(n-propyle), l'adipate de dioctyle, l'adipate de di(2-éthyhexyle), l'adipate de diisostéaryle, le maléate de di(2- éthylhexyle), le citrate de triisopropyle, le citrate de triisocétyle, le citrate de trisostéaryle, le trilactate de glycéryle, le trioctanoate de glycéryle, le citrate de trioctyldodécyle, le citrate de trioléyle, le diheptanoate de néopentyl glycol, et le diisononate de diéthylène glycol. La composition peut également comprendre, à titre d' esters gras liquides, des esters et di-esters de sucres et d'acides gras en C6- C30 , de préférence en C 12 - C22 , liquides. Il est rappelé que l ' on entend par « sucre », des composés hydrocarbonés oxygénés qui possèdent plusieurs fonctions alcools, avec ou sans fonction al déhyde ou cétone, et qui comportent au moins 4 atomes de carbone. Ces sucres peuvent être des monosaccharides, des oligosaccharides ou des polysaccharides . It is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar alcohols di-, tri- , tetra- or pentahydroxylés C 4 -C26- These include diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisopropyl adipate, di (n-propyl ), dioctyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononate. The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty esters, esters and diesters of sugars and fatty acids C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, which are liquid. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functional groups, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Comme sucres convenables, on peut citer par exemple l e saccharose, le glucose, le galactose, le ribose, le fucose, le maltose, le fructose, le mannose, l'arabino se, le xylo se, le lactose, et leurs dérivés notamment alkylés, tels que les dérivés méthylés comme le méthylglucose.  Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylol, lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkylated. , such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
Les esters de sucres et d' acides gras peuvent être choi si s notamment dans le groupe comprenant les esters ou mél anges d' esters de sucres décrits auparavant et d'acides gras en C6 - C30 , de préférence en C 12 - C22 , linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés . S ' il s sont insaturés, ces composés peuvent comprendre une à trois doubles liai sons carbone-carbone, conj uguées ou non.  The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or melanges of sugar esters previously described and of linear C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acids. or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
Les esters selon cette variante peuvent être également choi si s parmi les mono-, di-, tri- et tétraesters, les polyesters, et leurs mélanges.  The esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
Ces esters peuvent être par exempl e des oléates, laurates, palmitates, myri states, béhénates, cocoates, stéarates, linoléates, linolénates, caprates, arachidonates, et leurs mélanges comme notamment les esters mixtes oléo-palmitate, oléo-stéarate, palmito- stéarate.  These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myriates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate esters. .
Plus particulièrement, on utili se l es mono- et di esters et notamment les mono- ou dioléates, stéarates, béhénates, oléopalmitates, linoléates, linolénates, oléostéarates, de saccharose, de glucose ou de méthylglucose.  More particularly, mono- and di-esters, and especially mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose are used.
On peut citer à titre d'exemple, le produit vendu sous l a dénomination Glucate® DO par l a société AMERCHOL, qui est un dioléate de méthylglucose. Enfin, on peut aussi utiliser les esters naturels ou synthétiques de mono-, di- ou triacides avec le glycérol. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Finally, it is also possible to use natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol.
Parmi ceux-ci, on peut citer les huiles végétales.  Among these, we can mention vegetable oils.
Comme huiles d'origine végétale ou triglycérides synthétiques, utilisables dans la composition de l'invention à titre d'esters gras liquides, on peut citer par exemple :  As vegetable oils or synthetic triglycerides, used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, there may be mentioned for example:
- les huiles triglycérides d'origine végétale ou synthétique, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 6 à 30 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ou encore, par exemple les huiles de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot, de macadamia, d'arara, de tournesol, de ricin, d'avocat, d'olive, de colza, de coprah, de germe de blé, d'amande douce, d'abricot, de carthame, de noix de bancoulier, de camélina, de tamanu, de babassu et de pracaxi, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société STEARINERIES DUBOIS ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol® 810, 812 et 818 par la société DYNAMIT NOBEL, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de beurre de karité.  triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, olive, rapeseed, copra, wheat, sweet almond, apricot, safflower, bancoulier nut, camellina, tamanu, babassu and pracaxi, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by DYNAMIT NOBEL, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.
De préférence, on utilisera à titre d'esters selon l'invention des esters gras liquides issus de monoalcools.  Preferably, as esters according to the invention, liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will be used.
Les myristate ou palmitate d'isopropyle sont particulièrement préférés.  Myristate or isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred.
Les éthers gras liquides sont choisis parmi les dialkyléthers liquides tels que le dicaprylyléther.  The liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.
Le ou les corps gras utilisés dans la composition selon l'invention peuvent également être des corps gras non liquides à température ambiante (25 °C) et à pression atmosphérique (760 mm de Hg, soit 1,013.105 Pa). The fatty substance (s) used in the composition according to the invention may also be non-liquid fatty substances at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa).
Par « non liquide », on entend de préférence un composé solide ou un composé présentant une viscosité supérieure à 2 Pa.s à température de 25 °C et à un taux de cisaillement de 1 s"1. The term "non-liquid" preferably means a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s -1 .
Plus particulièrement, les corps gras non liquides sont choisis parmi les alcools gras, les esters d'acide gras et/ou d'alcool gras, les cires non siliconées et les éthers gras, non liquides et de préférence solides. More particularly, the non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes and fatty, non-liquid and preferably solid ethers.
Les alcools gras non liquides convenant à la mise en œuvre de l'invention sont plus particulièrement choisis parmi les alcools saturés ou insaturés, linéaires ou ramifiés, comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone. On peut citer par exemple l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique, et leur mélange (alcool cétylstéarylique).  Non-liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated alcohols, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol).
En ce qui concerne les esters d'acide gras et/ou d'alcools gras non liquides, on peut citer notamment les esters solides issus d'acides gras en C9-C26 et d'alcools gras en C9-C26-As regards the fatty acid esters and / or non-liquid fatty alcohols, mention may in particular be made of solid esters derived from C 9 -C 26 fatty acids and from C 9 -C 22 fatty alcohols.
Les esters gras solides utilisables dans la composition de l'invention sont de préférence des esters d'acide gras saturés et notamment des esters d'acides carboxyliques saturés comportant au moins 10 atomes de carbone, et de monoalcools gras saturés comportant au moins 10 atomes de carbone. Les acides ou les monoalcools saturés peuvent être linéaires ou ramifiés. Les acides carboxyliques saturés comportent de préférence de 10 à 30 atomes de carbone, et plus particulièrement de 12 à 24 atomes de carbone. Ils peuvent être éventuellement hydroxylés. Les monoalcools gras saturés comportent de préférence de 10 à 30 atomes de carbone, et plus particulièrement de 12 à 24 atomes de carbone. The solid fatty esters that may be used in the composition of the invention are preferably saturated fatty acid esters, and in particular esters of saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms, and saturated fatty monoalcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms. carbon. Saturated acids or monoalcohols may be linear or branched. The saturated carboxylic acids preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. They can be optionally hydroxylated. The saturated fatty monoalcohols preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
De préférence, les esters gras sont choisis parmi les myristates de myristyle, de cétyle et de stéaryle, les palmitates de myristyle, de cétyle et de stéaryle, les stéarates de myristyle de cétyle et de stéaryle, le béhénate de béhényle, et leurs mélanges.  Preferably, the fatty esters are chosen from myristyl, cetyl and stearyl myristates, myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates, cetyl and stearyl myristyl stearates, behenyl behenate, and mixtures thereof.
La ou les cires non siliconées sont choisies notamment parmi la cire de Carnauba, la cire de Candelila, la cire d'Alfa, la cire de paraffine, l'ozokérite, les cires végétales comme la cire d'olivier, la cire de riz, la cire de jojoba hydrogénée ou les cires absolues de fleurs telles que la cire essentielle de fleur de cassis vendue par la société BERTIN (France), les cires animales comme les cires d'abeilles, ou les cires d'abeilles modifiées (cerabellina) et les céramides.  The non-silicone wax or waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelila wax, alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina) and ceramides.
Les céramides ou analogues de céramides, tels que les glycocéramides utilisables dans les compositions selon l'invention, sont connus en eux-mêmes et sont des molécules naturelles ou synthétiques pouvant répondre à la formule générale (I) suivante :
Figure imgf000022_0001
Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, are are known in themselves and are natural or synthetic molecules that can respond to the following general formula (I):
Figure imgf000022_0001
Rl (I) Rl (I)
dans laquelle :  in which :
- Ri désigne un groupe alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, dérivé d'acides gras en C14-C30, ce groupe pouvant être substitué par un groupement hydroxyle en position alpha, ou un groupement hydroxyle en position oméga, estérifié par un acide gras saturé ou insaturé en C16-C30,  R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position, esterified with an acid; saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fat,
- R2 désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe (glycosyle)n,R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl) n group ,
(galactosyle)m ou sulfogalactosyle, dans lesquels n est un entier variant de 1 à 4 et m est un entier variant de 1 à 8, (galactosyl) m or sulfogalactosyl, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8,
- R3 désigne un groupe hydrocarboné en C15-C26, saturé ou insaturé en position alpha, ce groupe pouvant être substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes alkyles en Ci-C ,  - R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group may be substituted by one or more C 1 -C alkyl groups,
étant entendu que dans le cas des céramides ou glycocéramides naturels, R3 peut également désigner un groupe alpha-hydroxyalkyle en C15-C26, le groupement hydroxyle étant éventuellement estérifié par un alpha-hydroxyacide en Ci6-C3o- Les céramides préférés dans le cadre de la présente invention sont ceux décrits par DOWNING dans Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123, 1381- 1384, 1987, ou ceux décrits dans le brevet français FR 2673 179. it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R 3 may also designate a C 15 -C 26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C 6 -C 3 α-hydroxyacid. Preferred ceramides in the context of of the present invention are those described by DOWNING in Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123, 1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2673179.
Le ou les céramides plus particulièrement préférés selon l'invention sont les composés pour lesquels Ri désigne un alkyle saturé ou insaturé dérivé d'acides gras en C16-C22, R2 désigne un atome d'hydrogène et R3 désigne un groupe linéaire saturé en C15. The ceramide or ceramides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16 -C 22 fatty acids, R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R 3 denotes a linear C 15 saturated group. .
De tels composés sont, par exemple, la N- linoléoyldihydrosphingosine, la N-oléoyldihydrosphingosine, la N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, la N-stéaroyldihydrosphingosine, la N- béhénoyldihydrosphingosine, ou les mélanges de ces composés. Such compounds are, for example, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds.
Encore plus préférentiellement, on utilise les céramides pour lesquels Ri désigne un groupe alkyle saturé ou insaturé dérivé d'acides gras, R.2 désigne un groupe galactosyle ou sulfogalactosyle et R3 désigne un groupement -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3. Even more preferably, the ceramides for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids, R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulphogalactosyl group and R 3 denotes a -CH = CH- (CH 2 ) 12-group. CH 3 .
D'autres cires ou matières premières cireuses utilisables selon l'invention sont notamment les cires marines telles que celles vendues par la Société SOPHIM sous la référence M82, les cires de polyéthylène ou de polyoléfine en général.  Other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as those sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.
Les éthers gras non liquides sont choisis parmi les dialkyléthers et notamment le dicétyléther, et le distéaryléther, seuls ou en mélange.  The non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
De préférence, les corps gras non siliconés selon l'invention sont choisis parmi les hydrocarbures, les alcools gras, les esters gras, et les céramides.  Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substances according to the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters and ceramides.
De manière encore plus préférée, les corps gras non siliconés sont choisis parmi l'huile de vaseline, l'alcool stéarylique, l'alcool cétylique et leurs mélanges tel que l'alcool cétylstéarylique, l'octyldodécanol, l'alcool oléique, le palmitate d'isopropyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, la N-oléoyldihydrosphingosine, la N- béhénoyldihydrosphingosine, et la N-linéoyldihydrosphingosine.  Even more preferably, the non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from liquid petrolatum, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, oleic alcohol, palmitate and the like. isopropyl, isopropyl myristate, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-linoyldihydrosphingosine.
Le ou les corps gras non siliconés peuvent être présents en une teneur allant de 0,01 à 50 % en poids, de préférence de 0,05 à 50 % en poids, mieux de 0,1 à 30 % en poids, encore mieux de 0,1 à 20% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.  The non-silicone fatty substance (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 50% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition peut comprendre en plus de la ou des silicone(s) élastomère(s) utilisée(s) selon l'invention, une ou plusieurs silicones additionnelles non élastomères.  The composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more additional non-elastomeric silicones.
Les silicones non élastomères utilisables dans les compositions de la présente invention, sont en particulier des polyorganosiloxanes non élastomères qui peuvent se présenter sous forme de solutions aqueuses, c'est-à-dire solubilisées, ou éventuellement sous forme de dispersions ou micro-dispersions, ou d'émulsions aqueuses. Les polyorganosiloxanes non élastomères peuvent également se présenter sous forme d'huiles, de cires, de résines ou de gommes. The non-elastomeric silicones that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are in particular non-elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes which may be in the form of aqueous solutions, that is to say solutions which are solubilized, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions. or aqueous emulsions. The Non-elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Les organopolysiloxanes non élastomères sont définis plus en détail dans l'ouvrage de Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Académie Press.  Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academy Press.
Les silicones non élastomères peuvent être volatiles ou non volatiles.  Non-elastomeric silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.
Lorsqu'elles sont volatiles, les silicones non élastomères sont plus particulièrement choisies parmi celles possédant un point d'ébullition compris entre 60 °C et 260 °C, et plus particulièrement encore parmi :  When they are volatile, the non-elastomeric silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly between:
(i) les silicones cycliques comportant de 3 à 7 atomes de silicium et de préférence 4 à 5.  (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably from 4 to 5.
Il s'agit, par exemple, de l'octaméthylcyclotétrasiloxane commercialisé notamment sous le nom de "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" par la société UNION CARBIDE ou "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" par la société RHODIA, le décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane commercialisé sous le nom de "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" par la société UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" par la société RHODIA, ainsi que leurs mélanges.  It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by the company UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by Rhodia, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158 "by the company UNION CARBIDE," SILBIONE 70045 V 5 "by RHODIA, and mixtures thereof.
On peut également citer les cyclocopolymères du type diméthylsiloxanes/méthylalkylsiloxane, tel que la "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109" commercialisée par la société UNION CARBIDE, de structure chimique :  Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure:
D" - D'■ D" - D'■ D "- D '■ D" - D' ■
CH, CH,  CH, CH,
i 3 I 3 i 3 I 3
avec D" : — Si - O— avec D' : - Si - O—  with D ": - Si - O- with D ': - Si - O-
CH3 C8H17 CH 3 C 8 H 17
On peut également citer les mélanges de silicones cycliques avec des composés organiques dérivés du silicium, tels que le mélange d'octaméthylcyclotétrasiloxane et de tétratriméthylsilylpentaérythritol (50/50) et le mélange d'octaméthylcyclotétrasiloxane et d'oxy- 1, l'(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-triméthylsilyloxy) bis-néopentane. (ii) les silicones volatiles linéaires ayant 2 à 9 atomes de silicium et possédant une viscosité inférieure ou égale à 5.10"6 m2/s à 25°C. Il s'agit, par exemple, du décaméthyltétrasiloxane commercialisé notamment sous la dénomination "SH 200" par la société TORAY SILICONE. Des silicones entrant dans cette classe sont également décrites dans l'article publié dans Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". Cyclic silicone mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon may also be mentioned, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1, hexamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and hexamethylcyclotetrasiloxane. 2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane. (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name " SH 200 "by TORAY SILICONE Silicones in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol 91, Jan. 76, p 27-32 - TODD & BYERS Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics ".
Lorsque les silicones non élastomères sont non-volatiles, on utilise de préférence des polyalkylsiloxanes, des polyarylsiloxanes, des polyalkylarylsiloxanes, des gommes et des résines de silicones, des polyorganosiloxanes modifiés par des groupements organofonctionnels ainsi que leurs mélanges.  When the non-elastomeric silicones are nonvolatile, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and their mixtures are preferably used.
Ces silicones sont plus particulièrement choisies parmi les polyalkylsiloxanes parmi lesquels on peut citer principalement les polydiméthylsiloxanes à groupements terminaux triméthylsilyle (Diméthicone selon la dénomination CTFA) ayant une viscosité de 5.10"6 à 2,5 m2/s à 25°C et de préférence 1.10"5 à 1 m2/s. La viscosité des silicones est par exemple mesurée à 25°C selon la norme ASTM 445 Appendice C. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1.10 "5-1 m 2 / s. The viscosity of the silicones is for example measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
Parmi ces polyalkylsiloxanes, on peut citer à titre non limitatif, les produits commerciaux suivants :  Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:
- les huiles SILBIONE des séries 47 et 70 047 ou les huiles MIRASIL commercialisées par la société RHODIA telles que par exemple l'huile 70047 V 500000,  the SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, the 70047 V 500000 oil,
- les huiles de la série MIRASIL commercialisées par la société RHODIA,  the oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHODIA,
- les huiles de la série 200 de la société DOW CORNING telles que plus particulièrement la DC200 de viscosité 60 000 cSt (centistokes),  the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, the DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 cSt (centistokes),
- les huiles VISCASIL de la société GENERAL ELECTRIC et certaines huiles des séries SF (SF 96, SF 18) de la société GENERAL ELECTRIC. On peut également citer les polydiméthyl siloxanes à groupements terminaux diméthyl silanol (Dimethiconol selon la dénomination CTFA) tels que les huiles de la série 48 de la société RHODIA. - VISCASIL oils from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethyl siloxanes with dimethyl silanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
On peut également citer les polydiméthyl siloxanes à groupements aminoéthyl, aminopropyl et alpha-oméga silanols .  Mention may also be made of polydimethyl siloxanes containing aminoethyl, aminopropyl and alpha-omega silanol groups.
Dans cette classe de polyalkyl siloxanes, on peut également citer les produits commerciali sés sous les dénominations " ABIL WAX 9800 et 9801 " par la société GOLD SCHMIDT qui sont des polyalkyl (C 1 -C20) siloxanes.  In this class of polyalkyl siloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLD SCHMIDT, which are poly (C 1 -C 20) alkylsiloxanes.
Les polyalkylaryl siloxanes sont particulièrement choisis parmi les polydiméthyl méthylphényl siloxanes, les polydiméthyl diphényl siloxanes linéaires et/ou ramifiés de vi scosité de 1 . 10"5 à 5. 10"2 m2/s à 25 °C . The polyalkylaryl siloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl methylphenyl siloxanes and linear and / or branched polydimethyl diphenyl siloxanes with a viscosity of 1. 10 "5 to 5. 10 " 2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C.
Parmi ces polyalkylaryl siloxanes, on peut citer, à titre d'exemple, les produits commerciali sés sous les dénominations suivantes :  Among these polyalkylaryl siloxanes, there may be mentioned, by way of example, the products sold under the following names:
- les huiles SILBIONE de la série 70 641 de la société RHODIA,  the SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA,
- les huiles des séries RHODORSIL 70 633 et 763 de la société - the oils of RHODORSIL series 70 633 and 763 of the company
RHODIA, Rhodia,
- l'huile DOW CORNING 556 CO SMETIC GRAD FLUID de la société DOW CORNING,  DOW CORNING 556 CO SMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from the company Dow Corning,
- les silicones de la série PK de la société BAYER comme le produit PK20,  the silicones of the PK series of the Bayer company, such as the PK20 product,
- les silicones des séries PN, PH de la société BAYER comme les produits PN 1000 et PH 1 000,  the silicones of the PN and PH series from the Bayer company, such as the PN 1000 and PH 1000 products,
- certaines huiles des séries SF de la société GENERAL ELECTRIC telles que SF 1023 , SF 1 1 54, SF 1250, SF 1265.  - certain oils of the SF series of the company GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1 1 54, SF 1250, SF 1265.
Les gommes de silicone pouvant être présentes dans la composition selon l ' invention sont notamment des polydiorganosiloxanes ayant des masses moléculaires moyennes en nombre élevées compri ses entre 200 000 et 1 000 000, utili sés seul s ou en mélange dans un solvant. Ce solvant peut être choi si parmi les silicones volatiles, les huiles polydiméthyl siloxanes (PDMS), les huil es polyphénylméthyl siloxanes (PPMS), les i soparaffines, les polyi sobutylènes, le chlorure de méthylène, le pentane, le dodécane, le tridécanes ou leurs mélanges . The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polydiorganosiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen among the volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), i-soparaffins, polyi-sobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.
On peut plus particulièrement citer les produits suivants :  In particular, the following products may be mentioned:
- les gommes de polydiméthyl siloxane,  the polydimethylsiloxane gums,
- les gommes polydiméthyl siloxanes/méthylvinyl siloxane, polydimethyl siloxane / methylvinyl siloxane gums,
- les gommes de polydiméthyl siloxane/diphényl siloxane,polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane gums,
- les gommes de polydiméthyl siloxane/phénylméthyl siloxane, - les gommes de polydiméthyl siloxane / diphényl siloxane / méthylvinyl siloxane. polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums.
Des produits plus particulièrement utili sables sont les mélanges suivants :  More particularly useful products are the following mixtures:
- les mélanges formés à partir d'un polydiméthyl siloxane hydroxylé en bout de chaîne (dénommé diméthiconol selon la nomenclature du dictionnaire CTFA) et d'un polydiméthyl siloxane cyclique (dénommé cyclométhicone selon la nomenclature du dictionnaire CTFA) tel que l e produit Q2 140 1 commerciali sé par l a société DOW CORNING,  mixtures formed from an hydroxylated polydimethyl siloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature) and a cyclic polydimethyl siloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature), such as the product Q2 140 1 sold by the company Dow Corning,
- les mélanges formés à partir d'une gomme polydiméthyl siloxane avec une silicone cyclique tel que le produit SF 1214 Silicone Flui d de la société GENERAL ELECTRIC, ce produit est une gomme SF 30 correspondant à une diméthicone, ayant un poids molécul aire moyen en nombre de 500 000, solubili sée dans l'huile SF 1202 Silicone Fluid correspondant au décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane, the mixtures formed from a polydimethyl siloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Flui d from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a mean molecular weight in terms of number of 500,000, solubilized in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
- les mélanges de deux PDMS de vi scosités différentes, et plus particulièrement d'une gomme PDMS et d'une huile PDMS, tels que l e produit SF 1236 de la société GENERAL ELECTRIC . Le produit SF 1236 est le mélange d'une gomme SE 30 définie ci-dessus ayant une vi scosité de 20 m2/s et d'une huile SF 96 d'une vi scosité de 5. 10"6 m2/s . Ce produit comporte de préférence 1 5 % en poids de gomme SE 30 et 85 % en poids d'une huile SF 96. mixtures of two PDMSs of different vi sosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5. 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% by weight of SE gum and 85% by weight of an SF 96 oil.
Les résines d'organopolysiloxanes éventuellement présentes dans la composition selon l'invention sont des systèmes siloxaniques réticulés renfermant les motifs : R2S1O2/2, R3S1O1/2, RS1O3/2 et S1O4/2 dans lesquelles R représente un groupement hydrocarboné possédant 1 à 16 atomes de carbone ou un groupement phényle. Parmi ces produits, ceux particulièrement préférés sont ceux dans lesquels R désigne un groupe alkyle en C1-C4, plus particulièrement méthyle, ou un groupe phényle. The organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are siloxane systems crosslinked containing the units: R2S1O2 / 2, R3S1O1 / 2, RS1O3 / 2 and S1O4 / 2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
On peut citer parmi ces résines le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination "DOW CORNING 593" ou ceux commercialisés sous les dénominations "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 et SS 4267" par la société GENERAL ELECTRIC et qui sont des silicones de structure diméthyl/triméthyl siloxane.  Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.
On peut également citer les résines du type triméthylsiloxysilicate commercialisées notamment sous les dénominations X22-4914, X21-5034 et X21-5037 par la société SHIN- ETSU.  Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
Les silicones organomodifiées éventuellement présentes dans la composition selon l'invention sont des silicones telles que définies précédemment et comportant dans leur structure un ou plusieurs groupements organofonctionnels fixés par l'intermédiaire d'un groupe hydrocarboné.  The organomodified silicones optionally present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.
Parmi les silicones organomodifiées non élastomères, on peut citer les polyorganosiloxanes comportant :  Among the non-elastomeric organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- des groupements polyéthylèneoxy et/ou polypropylèneoxy comportant éventuellement des groupements alkyle en C6-C24 tels que les produits dénommés diméthicone copolyol commercialisé par la société DOW CORNING sous la dénomination DC 1248 ou les huiles SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 de la société UNION CARBIDE et l'alkyl (C12) méthicone copolyol commercialisée par la société DOW CORNING sous la dénomination Q25200, polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C 12 ) meticone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q25200,
- des groupements thiols comme les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations "GP 72 A" et "GP 71" de la société GENESEE, thiol groups such as the products sold under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from the company GENESEE,
- des groupements alcoxylés comme le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" par SWS SILICONES et ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 et 2440 par la société GOLD SCHMIDT, alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLD SCHMIDT,
- des groupements hydroxylés comme les polyorganosiloxanes à fonction hydroxyalkyle décrits dans la demande de brevet françai s FR 2 589 476,  hydroxyl groups such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FR 2 589 476,
- des groupements acyloxyalkyle tel s que, par exemple, le s polyorganosiloxanes décrits dans le brevet US-A-4, 957, 732,  acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732,
- des groupements anioniques du type carb oxylique comme, par exemple, dans les produits décrits dans le brevet EP 1 86 507 de la société CHIS SO CORPORATION, ou de type alkylcarboxyliques comme ceux présents dans le produit X-22-3701 E de la société SHIN- ET SU, 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate, 2-hydroxyalkylthio sulfate tels que les produits commerciali sés par la société GOLD SCHMIDT sous les dénominations "ABIL S201 " et " ABIL S255 " ,  anionic groups of the carboxylic type such as, for example, in the products described in the patent EP 1 86 507 of the company CHIS SO CORPORATION, or of alkylcarboxylic type such as those present in the product X-22-3701 E of the company SHIN- and SU, 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate, 2-hydroxyalkylthio sulphate, such as the products marketed by GOLD SCHMIDT under the names "ABIL S201" and "ABIL S255",
- des groupements hydroxyacylamino, comme les polyorganosiloxanes décrits dans la demande EP 342 834. On peut citer par exemple le produit Q2-8413 de la société DOW CORNING.  hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from Dow Corning.
Parmi les silicones organomodifiées, on peut encore citer les silicones aminées .  Among the organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of amino silicones.
Par « silicone aminée », on entend toute silicone comportant au moins une fonction aminé primaire, secondaire, tertiaire ou un groupement ammonium quaternaire.  By "amino silicone" is meant any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
Les silicones aminées éventuellement utili sées dans l a composition cosmétique selon la présente invention sont choisie s parmi :  The amino silicones optionally used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
(a) les composés répondant à la formule (II) suivante : (R1)a(T)3 .aSi[O Si(T)2]n[O Si(T)b(R1)2.b] mO Si(T)3 .a(R1)a (II) dans laquelle : (a) compounds of the following formula (II): (R 1 ) a (T) 3 .a Si [O Si (T) 2 ] n [O Si (T) b (R 1 ) 2.b ] where (T) 3 .a (R 1 ) a (II) in which:
T est un atome d'hydrogène, ou un groupe phényle, hydroxyl e (-OH), ou alkyle en C i -C8, et de préférence méthyle, ou alcoxy en C i -C8, de préférence méthoxy, a désigne le nombre 0 ou un nombre entier de 1 à 3 , et de préférence 0, T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, hydroxyl e (-OH), or C 1 -C 8 alkyl, and preferably methyl, or C 1 -C 8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, a denotes the number 0 or an integer of 1 to 3, and preferably 0,
b désigne 0 ou 1 , et en particulier 1 ,  b is 0 or 1, and in particular 1,
m et n sont des nombres tel s que l a somme (n + m) peut varier notamment de 1 à 2 000 et en particulier de 50 à 1 50, n pouvant désigner un nombre de 0 à 1 999 et notamment de 49 à 149 et m pouvant désigner un nombre de 1 à 2 000, et notamment de 1 à 10, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000, and in particular from 1 to 10,
R1 est un groupe monovalent de formule -CqH2 qL dans laquelle q est un nombre de 2 à 8 et L est un groupement aminé éventuellement quaterni sé choi si parmi les groupements : R 1 is a monovalent group of formula -C q H 2 q L wherein q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from among the groups:
-N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N(R2)2, -N (R 2 ) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 2 ) 2 ,
-N(R2)2, -N (R 2 ) 2 ,
-N+(R2)3 Q", -N + (R 2 ) 3 Q " ,
-N+(R2) (H)2 Q", -N + (R 2 ) (H) 2 Q " ,
-N+(R2)2HQ", -N + (R 2 ) 2 HQ " ,
-N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N+(R2)(H)2 Q\ -N (R 2 ) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N + (R 2 ) (H) 2 Q
dans lesquel s R2 peut désigner un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe phényle, un groupe b enzyle, ou un groupe hydrocarboné saturé monovalent, par exemple un groupe alkyle en C i -C20, et Q" représente un ion halogénure tel que, par exemple, fluorure, chlorure, bromure ou iodure. in which R 2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, an enzyl group, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon group, for example a C 1 -C 20 alkyl group, and Q " represents a halide ion such as for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
En particulier, les silicones aminées correspondant à la définition de la formule (II) sont choi sies parmi les composés correspondant à la formule (III) suivante : In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (II) are chosen from compounds corresponding to the following formula (III):
Figure imgf000031_0001
Figure imgf000031_0001
dans laquelle R, R', R", identiques ou différents, désignent un groupe alkyle en C1-C4, de préférence CH3, un groupe alcoxy en C1-C4, de préférence méthoxy, ou OH, A représente un groupe alkylène, linéaire ou ramifié, en C3-C8, de préférence en C3-C6, m et n sont des nombres entiers dépendant du poids moléculaire et dont la somme est comprise entre 1 et 2000. in which R, R ', R ", identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3 , a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy, or OH, A represents a alkylene group, linear or branched, C 3 -C 8 , preferably C 3 -C 6 , m and n are integers depending on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
Selon une première possibilité, R, R' et R", identiques ou différents, représentent chacun un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 ou hydroxyle, A représente un groupe alkylène en C3 et m et n sont tels que la masse moléculaire moyenne en poids du composé est comprise entre 5 000 et 500 000 environ. Les composés de ce type sont dénommés dans le dictionnaire CTFA, "amodiméthicone" . According to a first possibility, R, R 'and R ", which are identical or different, each represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C 3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the average molecular weight The weight of the compound is from about 5,000 to about 500,000.The compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicone".
Selon une deuxième possibilité, R, R' et R", identiques ou différents, représentent chacun un groupe alcoxy en C1-C4 ou hydroxyle, l'un au moins des groupes R ou R" est un groupe alcoxy et A représente un groupe alkylène en C3. Le rapport molaire hydroxy / alcoxy est de préférence compris entre 0,2/1 et 0,4/1 et avantageusement égal à 0,3/1. Par ailleurs, m et n sont tels que la masse moléculaire moyenne en poids du composé est comprise entre 2000 et 106. Plus particulièrement, n est compris entre 0 et 999 et m est compris entre 1 et 1000, la somme de n et m étant comprise entre 1 et 1000. Dans cette catégorie de composés, on peut citer entre autres, le produit Bel sil®ADM 652 commerciali sé par la société WACKER. According to a second possibility, R, R 'and R ", which are identical or different, each represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the R or R" groups is an alkoxy group and A represents a C 3 alkylene group. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2 / 1 and 0.4 / 1 and advantageously equal to 0.3 / 1. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000. In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Bel sil®ADM 652 marketed by WACKER.
Selon une troi sième possibilité, R et R" , différents, représentent chacun un groupe alcoxy en C 1 -C4 ou hydroxyle, l'un au moins des groupes R et R" étant un groupe alcoxy, R' représentant un groupe méthyle et A représentant un groupe alkylène en C3. Le rapport molaire hydroxy / alcoxy est de préférence compri s entre 1 /0, 8 et 1 / 1 , 1 , et avantageusement est égal à 1 /0, 95. Par ailleurs, m et n sont tels que la masse moléculaire moyenne en poids du composé est compri se entre 2000 et 200000. Plus particulièrement, n est compri s entre 0 et 999 et m est compri s entre 1 et 1000, la somme de n et m étant compri se entre 1 et 1000. According to a third possibility, R and R ", different, each represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R and R" being an alkoxy group, R 'representing a methyl group and A representing a C 3 alkylene group. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 1: 0.8 and 1: 1, and preferably is 1: 0.95. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
Plus particulièrement, on peut citer le produit Flui dWR® 1300, commerciali sé par la société WACKER.  More particularly, mention may be made of Flui dWR® 1300, sold by WACKER.
Notons que la masse moléculaire de ces silicones est déterminée par chromatographie par perméation de gel (température ambiante, étalon polystyrène, colonnes μ styragem, éluant THF, débit de 1 mm/m, on inj ecte 200 μΐ d'une solution à 0, 5 % en poids de silicone dans le THF et l'on effectue la détection par réfractométrie et UV-métrie) .  Note that the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, μ styragem columns, eluent THF, flow rate of 1 mm / m, injected with 200 μl of a solution of 0.5 % by weight of silicone in THF and the detection is carried out by refractometry and UV-metry).
Un produit correspondant à la définition de la formule (II) est en particulier le polymère dénommé dans le dictionnaire CTFA « triméthyl silylamodiméthicone », répondant à la formule (IV) suivante : A product corresponding to the definition of formula (II) is in particular the polymer referred to in the CTFA dictionary "trimethyl silylamodimethicone", corresponding to formula (IV) below:
(CH3)3 (CH 3 ) 3
Figure imgf000033_0001
Figure imgf000033_0001
Nh  Nh
(IV) dans laquelle n et m ont les significations données ci-dessus conformément à la formule (III).  (IV) wherein n and m have the meanings given above according to formula (III).
De tels composés sont décrits par exemple dans EP 95238. Un composé de formule (IV) est, par exemple, vendu sous la dénomination Q2-8220 par la société OSI.  Such compounds are described for example in EP 95238. A compound of formula (IV) is, for example, sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
(b) les composés répondant à la formule (V) suivante :  (b) compounds of the following formula (V):
Figure imgf000033_0002
Figure imgf000033_0002
dans laquelle :  in which :
R3 représente un groupe hydrocarboné monovalent en Ci-Cis, et en particulier un groupe alkyle en Ci-Cis, ou alcényle en C2-Ci8, par exemple méthyle, R 3 represents a monovalent C 1 -C 18 hydrocarbon group, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl or C 2 -C 18 alkenyl group, for example methyl,
R4 représente un groupe hydrocarboné divalent, notamment un groupe alkylène en Ci-Cis ou un groupe alkylèneoxy divalent en C1-C18, par exemple en Ci-C8, R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8 , alkyleneoxy group,
Q" est un ion halogénure, notamment chlorure, Q " is a halide ion, especially chloride,
r représente une valeur statistique moyenne de 2 à 20 et en particulier de 2 à 8, s représente une valeur statistique moyenne de 20 à 200 et en particulier de 20 à 50. r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular 2 to 8, s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.
De tels composés sont décrits plus particulièrement dans le brevet US 4185087.  Such compounds are described more particularly in US Patent 4185087.
Un composé entrant dans cette classe est celui vendu par la société UNION CARBIDE sous la dénomination "Ucar Silicone ALE 56".  A compound in this class is that sold by UNION CARBIDE under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56".
(c) les silicones ammonium quaternaire, notamment de formule (VI) suivante : R8 - R8
Figure imgf000034_0001
(c) quaternary ammonium silicones, especially of formula (VI) below: R 8 - R 8
Figure imgf000034_0001
dans laquelle :  in which :
R.7, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe hydrocarboné monovalent ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone, et en particulier un groupe alkyle en Ci-Cis, un groupe alcényle en C2-Ci8 ou un cycle comprenant 5 ou 6 atomes de carbone, par exemple méthyle, R.7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 8 alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 atoms carbon, for example methyl,
R6 représente un groupe hydrocarboné divalent, notamment un groupe alkylène en Ci-Cis ou un groupe alkylèneoxy divalent en C1-C18, par exemple en Ci-C8 relié au Si par une liaison Si-C, R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group include alkylene Ci-Cis or a divalent alkyleneoxy group C 1 -C 18 alkyl, for example Ci-C 8 connected to the Si via an Si-C bond,
R8, identiques ou différents, représentent chacun un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe hydrocarboné monovalent ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone, et en particulier un groupe alkyle en Ci-Ci8, un groupe alcényle en C2-Ci8, un groupe -R6-NHCOR7, R 8, identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and especially an alkyl group Ci-8 alkenyl, C 2 -C 8, a group -R6-NHCOR7,
X" est un anion tel qu'un ion halogénure, notamment chlorure ou un sel d'acide organique (acétate, ...), X " is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, ...),
r représente une valeur statistique moyenne de 2 à 200 et en particulier de 5 à 100.  r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular 5 to 100.
Ces silicones sont par exemple décrites dans la demande EP-A- 0530974.  These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974.
(d) les silicones aminées de formule (VII) suivante :
Figure imgf000035_0001
(d) the amino silicones of formula (VII) below:
Figure imgf000035_0001
dans laquelle :  in which :
- Ri, R2, R3 et R4, identiques ou différents, désignent chacun un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 ou un groupement phényle, R 1, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , which are identical or different, each denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
- R5 désigne un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 ou un groupement hydroxyle, - R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- n est un entier variant de 1 à 5,  n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m est un entier variant de 1 à 5, et  m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x est choisi de manière telle que l'indice d'amine soit compris entre 0,01 et 1 meq/g (milliéquivalent par gramme).  x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g (milliequivalent per gram).
Lorsque ces composés sont mis en œuvre, une forme de réalisation particulièrement intéressante est leur utilisation conjointe avec des agents de surface cationiques et/ou non ioniques.  When these compounds are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use together with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants.
A titre d'exemple, on peut utiliser le produit vendu sous la dénomination "Emulsion Cationique DC 939" par la société DOW CORNING, qui comprend, outre l'amodiméthicone, un agent de surface cationique qui est le chlorure de triméthylcétylammonium et un agent de surface non ionique, de formule C13H27-(OC2H4)12-OH, connu sous la dénomination CTFA "tridéceth-12". By way of example, it is possible to use the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 939" by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylketylammonium chloride and a nonionic surface, of formula C 13 H 27 - (OC 2 H 4 ) 12 -OH, known under the name CTFA "trideceth-12".
Un autre produit commercial utilisable selon l'invention est le produit vendu sous la dénomination "Dow Corning Q2 7224" par la Société DOW CORNING, comportant en association le triméthylsilyl- amodiméthicone de formule (III) décrite ci-dessus, un agent de surface non ionique de formule C8H17-C6H4-(OCH2CH2)40-OH, connu sous la dénomination CTFA "octoxynol-40", un second agent de surface non ionique de formule Ci2H25-(OCH2-CH2)6-OH, connu sous la dénomination CTFA "isolaureth-6", et du propylèneglycol. Another commercial product that can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the company Dow Corning, comprising in combination the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (III) described above, a non-surfactant ionic compound of formula C 8 H 17 -C 6 H 4 - (OCH 2 CH 2 ) 40 -OH, known under the name CTFA "octoxynol-40", a second non-surface active agent ionic Ci2H25- formula (OCH 2 -CH 2) 6-OH, known under the CTFA name "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol.
Les silicones de l'invention peuvent être aussi des silicones greffées à groupements anioniques tels que les composés VS 80 ou VS 70 proposés par la Société 3M.  The silicones of the invention may also be anionic grafted silicones such as compounds VS 80 or VS 70 proposed by the company 3M.
Dans un mode de réalisation plus préféré, la silicone est un polydiméthylsiloxane chimiquement non modifié ou une silicone aminée.  In a more preferred embodiment, the silicone is a chemically unmodified polydimethylsiloxane or an amino silicone.
La ou les silicones peuvent être présentes en une teneur allant de 0,01 à 40 % en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 5 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.  The silicone or silicones may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition peut comprendre en plus de la ou des silicone(s) élastomère(s) utilisée(s) selon l'invention, un ou plusieurs agents tensioactifs, de préférence choisis parmi les agents tensioactifs anioniques, cationiques, non ioniques, amphotères ou zwittérioniques, et mieux encore parmi les agents tensioactifs cationiques.  The composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. and more preferably from cationic surfactants.
On entend par « agent tensioactif anionique », un tensioactif ne comportant à titre de groupements ioniques ou ionisables, que des groupements anioniques, dans la composition utilisée selon l'invention. Ces groupements anioniques sont choisis de préférence parmi les groupements C02H, C02 " , S03H, S03 ", OS03H, OS03\ 02P02H2, 02P02H\ 02P02 2\ The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups, in the composition used according to the invention. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups C0 2 H, C0 2 " , S0 3 H, S0 3 " , OS0 3 H, OSO 3 \ 0 2 P0 2 H 2 , O 2 P0 2 H \ 0 2 P0 2 2 \
A titre d'exemple d'agents tensioactifs anioniques utilisables, on peut citer par exemple les alkyl sulfates, les alkyl éther sulfates, les alkylamidoéthersulfates, les alkylarylpolyéthersulfates, les monoglycéride-sulfates, des alkylsulfonates, les alkylamidesulfonates, les alkylarylsulfonates, les alpha-oléfine-sulfonates, les paraffine- sulfonates, les alkylsulfosuccinates, les alkyléthersulfosuccinates, les alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, les alkylsulfo-acétates, les acylsarcosinates, les acylglutamates, les alkylsulfosuccinamates, les acyliséthionates et les N-acyltaurates, les sels de monoesters d'alkyle et d'acides polyglycoside-polycarboxyliques les acyllactylates, les sels d'acides D-galactoside-uroniques, les sels d'acides alkyl éther- carboxyliques, les sels d'acides alkyl aryl éther-carboxyliques, les sels d'acides alkyl amidoéther-carboxyliques ; et les formes non salifiées de tous ces composés, les groupes alkyle et acyle de tous ces composés comportant de 6 à 24 atomes de carbone et le groupe aryle désignant un groupe phényle. Examples of useful anionic surfactants include, for example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates and alpha olefins. sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, salts alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids; and the non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.
Certains de ces composés peuvent être oxyéthylénés et comportent alors de préférence de 1 à 50 motifs oxyde d'éthylène.  Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
Les sels de monoesters d'alkyle en C6-24 et d'acides polyglycoside-polycarboxyliques peuvent être choisis parmi les polyglycoside-citrates d'alkyle en C6-24, les polyglycosides-tartrates d'alkyle en C6-24 et les polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates d'alkyle en Alkyl monoesters, salts of C 6 -24 of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be selected from alkyl polyglycoside citrates C 6 -24, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates the C 6 -24 and alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates
Lorsque l'agent ou les agents tensioactifs anioniques sont sous forme de sel, il(s) peu(ven)t être choisi(s) parmi les sels de métaux alcalins tels que le sel de sodium ou de potassium et de préférence de sodium, les sels d'ammonium, les sels d'amines et en particulier d'aminoalcools, et les sels de métaux alcalino-terreux tel que le sel de magnésium. When the agent or the anionic surfactants are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine and especially aminoalcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.
A titre d'exemple de sels d'aminoalcools, on peut citer notamment les sels de mono-, di- et triéthanolamine, les sels de mono-, di- ou tri-isopropanol-amine, les sels de 2-amino 2-méthyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-méthyl 1,3-propanediol et tris(hydroxyméthyl)amino méthane.  By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
On utilise de préférence les sels de métaux alcalins ou alcalinoterreux et en particulier les sels de sodium ou de magnésium.  The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
On utilise de préférence les alkyl(C6-24)sulfates, les alkylAny alkyl is used (C 6 -24) sulfates, alkyl
(C6-24)éthersulfates, éventuellement oxyéthylénés comprenant de 2 à 50 motifs oxyde d'éthylène, et leurs mélanges, en particulier sous forme de sels de métaux alcalins ou alcalino-terreux, d'ammonium, d'aminoalcool. Plus préférentiellement, le ou les agents tensioactifs anioniques sont choisis parmi les alkyl(Cio-2o)éthersulfates, et en particulier le lauryléthersulfate de sodium à 2,2 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène. (C6-24) ethersulfates, optionally oxyethylenated comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, aminoalcohol. More preferably, the anionic surfactant (s) are chosen from (C 10 -C 20) alkyl ethersulfates, and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulphate containing 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide.
Lorsqu'ils sont présents, la quantité du ou des agents tensioactifs anioniques varie de préférence de 0,1 à 50% en poids, mieux encore de 4 à 30% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. When present, the amount of the anionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 4 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Des exemples d ' agents tensioactifs non-ioniques utili sables dans la composition cosmétique utili sée selon l ' invention sont décrit s par exemple dans "Handbook of Surfactants" par M.R. PORTER, éditions Blackie & Son (Gl asgow and London), 1991 , pp 1 16- 178. Il s sont choi si s notamment parmi les alcools gras polyéthoxylés, polypropoxylés et/ou polyglycérolés tel que l ' éther d' alcool cétylique/stéarylique oxyéthyléné, les alpha-diols polyéthoxylés, polypropoxylés et/ou polyglycérolés, les alkyl(C i_2 o)phénol s polyéthoxylés, polypropoxylés et/ou polyglycérolés ou les acides gras polyéthoxylés, polypropoxylés et/ou polyglycérolés, ayant une chaîne grasse comportant, par exemple, de 8 à 1 8 atomes de carbone, le nombre de groupements oxyde d'éthylène et/ou oxyde de propylène pouvant aller notamment de 2 à 50 et le nombre de groupements glycérol pouvant aller notamment de 2 à 30.  Examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the cosmetic composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. They are chosen especially from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as oxyethylenated cetyl / stearyl alcohol ether, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated alpha-diols, and alkyls. Polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated phenols, or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated fatty acids having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene and / or propylene oxide ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 30.
On peut également citer les copolymères hydrocarbonés d'oxyde d'éthylène et de propylène, l es esters d' acides gras et de sorbitan éventuellement oxyéthylénés, les esters d'acides gras et de saccharose, les esters d'acides gras polyoxyalkyl énés, les alkylpolyglycosi des éventuellement oxyalkylénés, les esters d'alkylglucosides, les dérivés de N-alkylglucamine et de N-acyl- méthylglucamine, les aldobionamides et les oxydes d'amine .  Mention may also be made of hydrocarbon copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan, optionally oxyethylenated, esters of fatty acids and of sucrose, esters of polyoxyalkylated fatty acids, alkylpolyglycosi optionally oxyalkylenes, alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine and N-acylmethylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides and amine oxides.
Lorsqu'il s sont présents, la quantité du ou des agents tensioactifs non ioniques varie de préférence de 0,01 à 20 % en poids, mieux encore de 0,2 à 10 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.  When present, the amount of the nonionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A titre d' exemple d ' agents tensioactifs amphotères ou zwittérioni ques utili sables, on peut citer par exemple les dérivés d'amines aliphatiques secondaires ou tertiaires, éventuellement quaterni sées, dans lesquel s le groupe aliphatique est une chaîne linéaire ou ramifiée comportant de 8 à 22 atomes de carb one, lesdit s dérivés d' amines contenant au moins un groupe anionique tel que, par exemple, un groupe carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate ou phosphonate. On peut citer en particulier les alkyl(C8-2o)bétaïnes, les sulfobétaïnes, les (alkyl en C8-2o)amido(alkyl en C2-8)bétaïnes ou les (alkyl en C8-2o)amido(alkyl en C2-8)sulfobétaïnes. Examples of useful amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include, for example, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 8 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, the derivatives derived from amines containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate group, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkyl amido (C 2-8 alkyl) betaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkyl amido (C 2-8 alkyl) ) sulfobetaines.
Parmi les dérivés d'amines aliphatiques secondaires ou tertiaires, éventuellement quaternisées utilisables tels que définis ci- dessus, on peut également citer les composés de structures respectives (A2) et (A3) suivantes :  Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used as defined above, mention may also be made of the following compounds of structures (A2) and (A3):
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO") (A2) dans laquelle : R a -CONHCH2CH2-N + (R b) (R c) (CH 2 COO ") (A2) wherein:
Ra représente un groupe alkyle ou alkényle en C10-C30 dérivé d'un acide Ra-COOH de préférence présent dans l'huile de coprah hydrolysée, un groupe heptyle, nonyle ou undécyle, R a represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a R a -COOH acid, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
R représente un groupe bêta-hydroxyéthyle, et R represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and
Rc représente un groupe carboxyméthyle ; et R c represents a carboxymethyl group; and
Ra>-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (A3) dans laquelle : R a > -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (B) (B ') (A3) in which:
B représente -CH2CH2OX', B represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX ',
B' représente -(CH2)Z-Y', avec z = 1 ou 2, B 'represents - (CH 2 ) Z -Y', with z = 1 or 2,
X' représente le groupe -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', ou un atome d'hydrogène, X 'represents the group -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom,
Y' représente -COOH, -COOZ', le groupe -CH2-CHOH-S03H ou -CH2- CHOH-S03Z', Y 'represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 Z ',
Z' représente un ion issu d'un métal alcalin ou alcalinoterreux, tel que le sodium, le potassium ou le magnésium ; un ion ammonium ; ou un ion issu d'une aminé organique et notamment d'un aminoalcool, tel que la mono-, di- et triéthanolamine, la mono-, di- ou tri-isopropanol- amine, le 2-amino 2-méthyl 1-propanol, le 2-amino 2-méthyl 1,3- propanediol et le tris(hydroxyméthyl)amino méthane. Ra' représente un groupe alkyle ou alkényle en C10-C30 d'un acide Ra'COOH de préférence présent dans l'huile de coprah ou dans l'huile de lin hydrolysée, un groupe alkyle, notamment en C17 et sa forme iso, un groupe en C17 insaturé. Z 'represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and especially an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. R a 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'COOH acid, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially a C 17 group, and its iso form an unsaturated C 17 group .
Ces composés sont classés dans le dictionnaire CTFA, 5ème édition, 1993, sous les dénominations cocoamphodiacétate de disodium, lauroamphodiacétate de disodium, caprylamphodiacétate de disodium, capryloamphodiacétate de disodium, cocoamphodipropionate de disodium, lauroamphodipropionate de disodium, caprylamphodipropionate de disodium, capryloamphodipropionate de disodium, acide lauroamphodipropionique, acide cocoamphodipropionique.  These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
A titre d'exemple, on peut citer le cocoamphodiacétate commercialisé par la société RHODIA sous la dénomination commerciale MIRANOL® C2M concentré.  By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
Parmi les agents tensioactifs amphotères ou zwittérioniques cités ci-dessus, on utilise de préférence les (alkyl en C8-2o)bétaïnes tel que la cocoylbétaïne, les (alkyl en C8-2o)amido(alkyl en C2-8)bétaïnes tel que la cocoylamidopropylbétaïne, et leurs mélanges. Plus préférentiellement, le ou les agents tensioactifs amphotères ou zwittérioniques sont choisis parmi la cocoylamidopropylbétaïne et la cocoylbétaïne.  Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines such as cocoylbetaine, C 8 -C 20 alkylamido (C 2-8 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.
Lorsqu'ils sont présents, la quantité du ou des agents tensioactifs amphotères ou zwittérioniques est de préférence comprise dans l'intervalle allant de 0,01 à 20% en poids, mieux encore de 0,5 à 10% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.  When present, the amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on total weight of the composition.
La composition peut comprendre en plus de la ou des silicone(s) élastomère(s) utilisée(s) selon l'invention un ou plusieurs agents tensioactifs cationiques de préférence choisis parmi les sels d'ammonium quaternaire suivants :  The composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from the following quaternary ammonium salts:
- les sels d'ammonium quaternaire de formule (VIII) suivante :
Figure imgf000041_0001
the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VIII) below:
Figure imgf000041_0001
dans laquelle :  in which :
les radicaux R8 à Ru, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, représentent un radical aromatique tel que aryle ou alkylaryle ou un radical aliphatique, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 1 à 30 atomes de carbone, un au moins des radicaux R8 à Rio comportant un radical alkyle ou alkényle comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 14 à 30 atomes de carbone, et mieux encore de 16 à 25 atomes de carbone, les radicaux aliphatiques pouvant comporter des hétéroatomes tels que notamment l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre et des halogènes. the radicals R 8 to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl or a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of R 8 radicals in Rio comprising an alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 25 carbon atoms, the aliphatic radicals possibly comprising heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
Les radicaux aliphatiques sont par exemple choisis parmi les radicaux alkyle, alcoxy, polyoxyalkylène (C2-C6), alkylamide, alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyle(C2-C6), alkyl(Ci2-C22)acétate, hydroxyalkyle, comportant environ de 1 à 30 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 14 à 30 et mieux encore de 16 à 25 atomes de carbone ; The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C 2 -C 6 ), alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22) alkyl acetate, hydroxyalkyl, with about from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 30 and most preferably from 16 to 25 carbon atoms;
X" est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures tel que chlorure, phosphates, acétates, lactates, alkyl(C2-C6)sulfates, alkyl- ou alkylaryl-sulfonates tel que méthosulfate. X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides such as chloride, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C 2 -C 6 ) sulphates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulphonates such as methosulphate.
Parmi les sels d'ammonium quaternaire de formule (VIII), on préfère utiliser les chlorures d' alkyltriméthylammonium dans lesquels le radical alkyle comporte environ de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone, en particulier les sels de béhényltriméthylammonium, de cétyltriméthylammonium, ou encore les sels d'oléocétyl diméthyl hydroxyéthyl ammonium.  Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VIII), it is preferred to use alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, or the salts oleocetyl dimethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium.
- les sels d'ammonium quaternaire de l'imidazoline, comme par exemple ceux de formule (IX) suivante :
Figure imgf000042_0001
the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (IX) below:
Figure imgf000042_0001
(IX) dans laquelle R12 représente un groupe alcényle ou alkyle comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, par exemple dérivés des acides gras du suif, R13 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 ou un groupe alcényle ou alkyle comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, R14 représente un groupe alkyle en C1-C4, R15 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle en C1-C4, X" est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates ou alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl- sulfonates. De préférence, R12 et Rn désignent un mélange de groupes alcényle ou alkyle comportant de 12 à 21 atomes de carbone, par exemple dérivés des acides gras du suif, R14 désigne un groupe méthyle, R15 désigne un atome d'hydrogène. Un tel produit est par exemple commercialisé sous la dénomination REWOQUAT® W 75 par la société REWO ; (IX) wherein R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, R 15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, X " is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (Ci-C 4 ) sulphates, alkyl (Ci-C 4 ) sulphonates or alkyl (Ci-C 4 ) aryl sulphonates, preferably R 12 and R n denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 14 denotes a methyl group, R 15 denotes a hydrogen atom, such a product is sold, for example, under the name REWOQUAT ® W 75 by the company REWO;
- les sels de di- ou de triammonium quaternaire en particulier de formule (X) suivante :  the quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (X) below:
2+  2+
R 17 R 19  R 17 R 19
R16— N- -(CH2 2)/3 -N R 21 2X" R 16 - N- - (CH 2 2) / 3 -NR 21 2X "
R 18 R 20  R 18 R 20
(X) dans laquelle R16 désigne un groupe alkyle comportant environ de 16 à 30 atomes de carbone, éventuellement hydroxylé et/ou interrompu par un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène ; R17 est choisi parmi l'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle comportant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ou un groupe(X) wherein R 16 denotes an alkyl group having from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; R17 is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group
-(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Rl7a)(Rl8a) ; Rl6a, Rl7a, R 18a, Rl8, Rl9, R20 et R21, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène et un groupe alkyle comportant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, et X" est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, acétates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates ou alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl- sulfonates, en particulier méthylsulfate et éthylsulfate. De tels composés sont par exemple le Finquat CT-P proposé par la société- (CH 2 ) 3-N + (R 16a) (R 17a) (R 18a); R 16a, R 17a, R 18a, R 18, R 19, R 20 and R 21 , which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and a group alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X " is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphonates or (C 1 -C 4) alkyl arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate Such compounds are for example the Finquat CT-P proposed by the company
FINETEX (Quaternium 89), le Finquat CT proposé par la sociétéFINETEX (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by the company
FINETEX (Quaternium 75) ; FINETEX (Quaternium 75);
- les sels d'ammonium quaternaire contenant une ou plusieurs fonctions esters, tels que, par exemple, ceux de formule (XI) suivante :  quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of formula (XI) below:
Figure imgf000043_0001
Figure imgf000043_0001
(XI)  (XI)
dans laquelle : in which :
R.22 est choisi parmi les groupes alkyles en Ci-C6 et les groupes hydroxyalkyle ou dihydroxyalkyle en Ci-C6, R.22 is selected from alkyl Cl-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl, Ci-C 6,
R23 est choisi parmi : R 2 3 is chosen from:
O  O
- le groupe ϊ¾— C—  - the group ϊ¾- C-
- les groupes R27 hydrocarbonés en C1-C22, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups R 27
- l'atome d'hydrogène,  - the hydrogen atom,
R25 est choisi parmi : R 25 is selected from:
O  O
- le groupe R2^c— - the group R 2 ^ c-
- les groupes R29 hydrocarbonés en Ci-C6, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon groups R 2 9
- l'atome d'hydrogène, R24, R26 et R-28, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les groupes hydrocarbonés en C7-C21, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés ; - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R-28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups;
r, s et t, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 2 à 6,  r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
rl et tl identiques ou différents, valent 0 ou 1,  rl and tl identical or different, are 0 or 1,
r2+rl=2r et tl+t2=2t,  r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t,
y est un entier valant de 1 à 10,  y is an integer from 1 to 10,
x et z, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 0 à 10,  x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
X" est un anion simple ou complexe, organique ou inorganique, sous réserve que la somme x + y + z vaut de 1 à 15, que lorsque x vautX " is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is
0 alors R23 désigne R27 et que lorsque z vaut 0 alors R25 désigne R29-0 then R23 is R27 and when z is 0 then R25 is R29-
Les groupes alkyles R22 peuvent être linéaires ou ramifiés, et plus particulièrement linéaires. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
De préférence, R22 désigne un groupe méthyle, éthyle, hydroxyéthyle ou dihydroxypropyle, et plus particulièrement un groupe méthyle ou éthyle.  Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Avantageusement, la somme x + y + z vaut de 1 à 10.  Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
Lorsque R23 est un groupe R27 hydrocarboné, il peut être long et avoir de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone, ou court et avoir de 1 à 3 atomes de carbone.  When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Lorsque R25 est un groupe R29 hydrocarboné, il a de préférence When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably
1 à 3 atomes de carbone. 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Avantageusement, R24, R26 et R28, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les groupes hydrocarbonés en Cn-C21, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, et plus particulièrement parmi les groupes alkyle et alcényle en Cn-C21, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés. Advantageously, R 2 4, R 26 and R 28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear C 1 -C 21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
De préférence, x et z, identiques ou différents, valent 0 ou 1. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.
Avantageusement, y est égal à 1. Advantageously, y is 1.
De préférence, r, s et t, identiques ou différents, valent 2 ou 3, et encore plus particulièrement sont égaux à 2. L'anion X" est de préférence un halogénure, de préférence chlorure, bromure ou iodure, un alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, alkyl(Ci-C4) sulfonate ou alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonate. On peut cependant utiliser le méthanesulfonate, le phosphate, le nitrate, le tosylate, un anion dérivé d'acide organique tel que l'acétate ou le lactate ou tout autre anion compatible avec l'ammonium à fonction ester. Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X "is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, alkyl (Ci-C4) sulfate, alkyl (Ci-C4) sulfonate or alkyl (Ci-C 4) arylsulfonate. However, one can use the methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.
L'anion X" est encore plus particulièrement le chlorure, le méthylsulfate ou l'éthylsulfate. The anion X - is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate.
On utilise plus particulièrement dans la composition selon l'invention, les sels d'ammonium de formule (XI) dans laquelle :  In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (XI) in which:
R22 désigne un groupe méthyle ou éthyle, R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
x et y sont égaux à 1,  x and y are equal to 1,
z est égal à 0 ou 1,  z is 0 or 1,
r, s et t sont égaux à 2,  r, s and t are equal to 2,
R23 est choisi parmi : R 2 3 is chosen from:
O  O
- le groupe R— c— - group R - c -
- les groupes méthyle, éthyle ou hydrocarbonés en C14-C22,methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups,
-l'atome d'hydrogène, the hydrogen atom,
R25 est choisi parmi :  R25 is selected from:
O  O
- le groupe F¾— c—  - the group F¾C-
- l'atome d'hydrogène, - the hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 et R28, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les groupes hydrocarbonés en C13-C17, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, et de préférence parmi les groupes alkyle et alcényle en C13- C17, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés. R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are selected from hydrocarbon groups, C 13 -C 17 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from alkyl and alkenyl, C 13 - C 17, linear or branched , saturated or unsaturated.
Avantageusement, les radicaux hydrocarbonés sont linéaires. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.
On peut citer par exemple parmi les composés de formule (XI) les sels, notamment le chlorure ou le méthylsulfate de diacyloxyéthyldiméthylammonium, de diacyloxyéthylhydroxyéthyl- méthylammonium, de monoacyloxyéthyldihydroxyéthylméthyl- ammonium, de triacyloxyéthylméthylammonium, de monoacyloxyéthylhydroxyéthyl diméthylammonium, et leurs mélanges. Les groupes acyles ont de préférence 14 à 1 8 atomes de carb one et proviennent plus particulièrement d'une huile végétale comme l'huile de palme ou de tournesol. Lorsque le composé contient plusi eurs groupes acyles, ces derniers peuvent être identiques ou différents . Examples of compounds of formula (XI) include salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl- methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly come from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter may be the same or different.
Ces produits sont obtenus, par exemple, par estérification directe de la triéthanolamine, de la trii sopropanolamine, d'alkyldiéthanolamine ou d'alkyldii sopropanolamine éventuellement oxyalkylénées sur des acides gras ou sur des mélanges d'acides gras d'origine végétale ou animale, ou par transestérification de leurs esters méthyliques. Cette estérification est suivie d'une quaterni sation à l'aide d'un agent d'alkylation tel qu'un halogénure d'alkyle, de préférence de méthyle ou d ' éthyle, un sulfate de dialkyle, de préférence de méthyle ou d' éthyle, le méthanesulfonate de méthyle, le para-toluènesulfonate de méthyle, la chlorhydrine du glycol ou du glycérol.  These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate. ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol.
De tel s composés sont par exemple commerciali sés sous les dénominations DEHYQUART® par la société HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® par la société STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® par la société CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 1 8 par la société REWO-WITCO . S of such compounds are for example the sub commerciali names Dehyquart ® by the company Henkel, STEPANQUAT ® by the company Stepan, NOXAMIUM ® by the company Ceca, and Rewoquat ® WE 1 8 by the company Rewo-Witco.
La composition selon l'invention peut contenir, par exemple, un mélange de sels de mono-, di- et triester d'ammonium quaternaire avec une maj orité en poids de sel s de diester.  The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority of the diester salt.
On peut aussi utiliser les sels d'ammonium contenant au moins une fonction ester décrits dans l es brevets US-A-4874554 et US-A-4137 1 80.  It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
On peut utili ser le chlorure de béhénoylhydroxypropyl- triméthylammonium, par exemple, proposé par KAO sous la dénomination Quatarmin BTC 13 1 .  Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, proposed by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 13 1 can be used.
De préférence les sel s d'ammonium contenant au moins une fonction ester contiennent deux fonctions esters. Parmi les agents tensioactifs cationiques pouvant être présents dans la composition selon l ' invention, on préfère plus particulièrement choisir les sel s de cétyltriméthylammonium, de béhényltriméthyl- ammonium, de dipalmitoyléthylhydroxyéthylméthylammonium, et leurs mél anges, et plus particuli èrement le chlorure de béhényltriméthyl- ammonium, le chlorure de cétyltriméthylammonium, le méthosulfate de dipalmitoyléthylhydroxyéthylammonium, et leurs mélanges. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose the cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt, and their melanges, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
Le ou les agents tensioactifs cationiques utili sables selon l ' invention sont présents dans des quantités allant de préférence de 0, 01 % à 20% en poids, en particulier de 0, 05 % à 10%) en poids, et mieux encore de 0, 1 %> à 5% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.  The cationic surfactant (s) used according to the invention are present in amounts ranging preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 20% by weight. , 1%> to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition peut comprendre en plus de la ou des silicone(s) élastomère(s) utili sée(s) selon l ' invention, un ou plusi eurs polymères cationiques.  The composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more cationic polymers.
Par « polymère cationi que », on entend au sens de la présente invention, tout polymère chargé positivement comprenant un ou plusieurs groupements cationiques et/ou ioni sables en groupements cationiques dans la composition utilisée selon l ' invention.  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any positively charged polymer comprising one or more cationic groups and / or cationic groups in the composition used according to the invention.
Le ou les polymères cationiques utilisables conformément à la présente invention peuvent être choi si s parmi tous ceux déj à connus en soi comme améliorant les propriétés cosmétiques des cheveux traités par des compositions détergentes, à savoir notamment ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A-0 337 354 et dans les demandes de brevets françai s FR-A-2 270 846, FR-A-2 383 660, FR-A-2 598 6 1 1 , FR-A-2 470 596, FR-A-2 5 19 863 et FR-A-2875 503 .  The cationic polymer or polymers which may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in the patent application EP-A. -0 337 354 and in the French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, FR-A-2 383 660, FR-A-2 598 6 1 1, FR-A-2 470 596, FR-A- 19,863 and FR-A-2875,503.
Le ou les polymères cationiques préférés sont choi si s parmi ceux qui contiennent dans leur structure des motifs comportant des groupements aminé primaires, secondaires, tertiaires et/ou quaternaires pouvant, par exemple, soit faire partie de la chaîne principal e polymère, soit être portés par un sub stituant latéral directement relié à celle-ci . De préférence, le ou l es polymères cationiques ne comportent pas de silicium dans leur structure. Parmi les polymères cationiques, on peut citer plus particulièrement les polymères de la famille des polyamines, polyaminoamides et polyammoniums quaternaires. Parmi ces polymères, on peut citer : The preferred cationic polymer (s) are chosen from those which contain in their structure units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which may, for example, be part of the main polymer chain or may be used. by a lateral sub stituant directly connected to it. Preferably, the cationic polymers have no silicon in their structure. Among the cationic polymers, there may be mentioned more particularly the polymers of the family of polyamines, polyaminoamides and polyammonium quaternaries. Among these polymers, mention may be made of:
(1) Les homopolymères ou copolymères dérivés d'esters ou d'amides acryliques ou méthacryliques, réticulés ou non, et comportant au moins un des motifs de formules (XII), (XIII), (XIV) ou (XV) suivantes :  (1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, crosslinked or otherwise, and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas (XII), (XIII), (XIV) or (XV):
Figure imgf000048_0001
Figure imgf000048_0001
Figure imgf000048_0002
Figure imgf000048_0002
N  NOT
R; R ;
(XV)  (XV)
dans lesquelles :  in which :
Ri et R-2, identiques ou différents, représentent chacun un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone et de préférence méthyle ou éthyle ;  R 1 and R 2, which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;
R-3, identiques ou différents, désignent chacun un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe CH3 ; A, identiques ou différents, représentent chacun un groupe alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, de préférence 2 ou 3 atomes de carbone ou un groupe hydroxyalkyle de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ; R-3, which may be identical or different, each denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 group; A, which may be identical or different, each represents a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R4, R5, R6, identiques ou différents, représentent chacun un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carb one ou un groupe benzyl e et de préférence un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carb one ; R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , which may be identical or different, each represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a benzyl group and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
X" désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique tel qu'un anion méthosulfate ou un halogénure tel que chlorure ou bromure. X " denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
Les polymères de la famille ( 1 ) peuvent contenir en outre un ou plusieurs motif(s) dérivant de comonomères pouvant être choi si s dans la famille des acrylamides, méthacrylamides, diacétones acrylamides, acrylamides et méthacrylamides sub stitués sur l'azote par des alkyles inférieurs (C 1 -C4), des acides acryliques ou méthacryliques ou leurs esters, des vinyllactames tel s que la vinylpyrrolidone ou le vinylcaprolactame, des esters vinyliques . The polymers of family (1) may also contain one or more unit (s) derived from comonomers which may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by alkyls. lower (C 1 -C 4 ), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
Ainsi, parmi ces polymères de la famille ( 1 ), on peut citer : - les copolymères d'acrylamide et de diméthylaminoéthyl méthacrylate quaterni sé au sulfate de diméthyl e ou avec un halogénure de diméthyle, tel que celui vendu sous la dénomination HERCOFLOC par la société HERCULES,  Thus, among these polymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: the copolymers of dimethyl-dimethyl-substituted dimethyl-ethyl acrylate and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the HERCULES company,
les copolymères d'acrylamide et de chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyltriméthylammonium décrits par exemple dans l a demande de brevet EP-A-080976 et vendus sous la dénomination BINA QUAT P 100 par la société CIBA GEIGY,  the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described for example in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,
le copolymère d' acrylamide et de méthosulfate de méthacryloyloxyéthyltriméthylammonium vendu sous la dénomination RETEN par la société HERCULES,  the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
- les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate ou méthacrylate de dialkylaminoalkyle quaterni sés ou non, tel s que les produits vendus sous la dénomination " GAFQUAT " par la société ISP comme par exemple " GAFQUAT 734 " ou " GAFQUAT 755 " (Polyquaternium- 1 1 ) ou bien les produits dénommés " COPOLYMER 845 , 958 et 937 " . Ces polymères sont décrits en détail dans les brevets français 2.077.143 et 2.393.573. De préférence, on utilise du Polyquaternium- 11 , vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate quaternized or unsaturated copolymers, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by ISP, for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" (Polyquaternium-1 1), or Well the products called "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573. Preferably, Polyquaternium-11 is used,
- les terpolymères méthacrylate de diméthyl amino éthyle / vinylcaprolactame / vinylpyrrolidone tel que le produit vendu sous la dénomination GAFFIX VC 713 par la société ISP,  dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
- les copolymère vinylpyrrolidone / méthacrylamidopropyl diméthylamine commercialisés notamment sous la dénomination STYLEZE CC 10 par ISP,  the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,
- les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone / méthacrylamide de diméthylaminopropyle quaternisés tel que le produit vendu sous la dénomination "GAFQUAT HS 100" par la société ISP,  the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,
- les polymères réticulés de sels de méthacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci- C4) trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium tels que les polymères obtenus par homopolymérisation du diméthylaminoéthylméthacrylate quaternisé par le chlorure de méthyle, ou par copolymérisation de l'acrylamide avec le diméthylaminoéthylméthacrylate quaternisé par le chlorure de méthyle, l'homo ou la copolymérisation étant suivie d'une réticulation par un composé à insaturation oléfinique, en particulier le méthylène bis acrylamide. On peut plus particulièrement utiliser un copolymère réticulé acrylamide / chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyl triméthylammonium (20/80 en poids) sous forme de dispersion contenant 50% en poids dudit copolymère dans de l'huile minérale. Cette dispersion est commercialisée sous le nom de " SALCARE® SC 92 " par la Société CIBA. On peut également utiliser un homopolymère réticulé du chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyl triméthylammonium contenant environ 50 % en poids de l'homopolymère dans de l'huile minérale ou dans un ester liquide. Ces dispersions sont commercialisées sous les noms de " SALCARE® SC 95 " et " SALCARE® SC 96 " par la Société CIBA. crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.
(2) Les polysaccharides cationiques notamment choisis parmi : a) les dérivés d'éther de cellulose comportant des groupements ammonium quaternaire décrits dans le brevet français 1 492597, et en particulier les polymères commercialisés sous les dénominations « JR » (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) ou « LR » (LR 400, LR 30M) par la société Union Carbide Corporation. Ces polymères sont également défini s dans le dictionnaire CTFA comme des ammonium s quaternaires d'hydroxyéthylcellulo se ayant réagi avec un époxyde sub stitué par un groupement triméthylammonium, (2) cationic polysaccharides chosen in particular from: a) cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1 492597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125); , JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulo reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group,
b) les copolymères de cellulose ou les dérivés de cellulose greffés avec un monomère hydrosoluble d'ammonium quaternaire tel s que les hydroxyalkyl celluloses, comme les hydroxyméthyl-, hydroxyéthyl- ou hydroxypropyl-celluloses greffées notamment avec un sel de méthacryloyléthyl triméthylammonium, de méthacrylamidopropyl triméthylammonium ou de diméthyl- di al lyl ammonium .  b) cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiaryl ammonium.
Les produits commerci ali sés répondant à cette définition sont plus particulièrement les produits vendus correspondant à la dénomination INCI Polyquaternium-4 sous la dénomination « Celquat L 200 » et « Celquat H 100 » par la société National Starch ou « Celquat LOR » par la société Akzo Nobel .  The products marketed corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold corresponding to the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch or "Celquat LOR" by the company Akzo Nobel.
c) les gommes de guar contenant des groupements cationiques trialkylammonium. On utili se par exemple des gommes de guar modifiées par un sel (par exemple, un sel de chlorure) de 2, 3 - époxypropyl triméthylammonium .  c) guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride salt) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used.
De tel s produits sont commerciali sés notamment sous le s dénominations commerciales de JAGUAR C 13 S, JAGUAR C 1 5 , JAGUAR C 17 ou JAGUAR C l 62 par la société MEYHALL  Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C 13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C 116 by the company MEYHALL
(3 ) Les polymères constitués de motifs pipérazinyle et de radicaux divalents alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène à chaîne droite ou ramifiée, éventuellement interrompue par des atomes d'oxygène, de soufre, d' azote ou par des cycles aromatiques ou hétérocycliques, ainsi que les produits d'oxydation et/ou de quaternisation de ces polymères. De tel s polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets françai s 2 162 025 et 2 280 361 .  (3) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
(4) Les polyaminoamides cationiques solubles dans l'eau préparés en particulier par polycondensation d'un composé acide avec une polyamine ; ces polyaminoami des peuvent être réticulés par une épihalohydrine, un diépoxyde, un dianhydride saturé ou non saturé, un dérivé bi s-insaturé, une bi s-halohydrine, un bi s-azétidinium, une bi s- haloacyldiamine, un bi s-halogénure d'alkyle ou encore par un oligomère résultant de la réaction d'un composé bifonctionnel réactif vis-à-vi s d'une bi s-halohydrine, d'un bi s-azétidinium, d'une bi s- haloacyldiamine, d'un bi s-halogénure d'alkyle, d'une épihalohydrine, d'un diépoxyde ou d'un dérivé bi s-insaturé ; ces polyaminoamides peuvent être alcoylés ou s'il s comportent une ou plusieurs fonctions aminés tertiaires, quaterni sés. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets françai s 2 252 840 et 2 368 508. (4) water-soluble cationic polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoams may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a saturated or unsaturated dianhydride, a bi-unsaturated derivative, a bi-halohydrin, a bi-azetidinium, a bi-haloacyldiamine, a bi-alkyl halide or an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reagent vis-à-vis bi-halohydrin, bi-azetidinium, bi-haloacyldiamine, alkyl bis-halogenide, epihalohydrin, diepoxide or a bi-unsaturated derivative; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amino functions, quaternized. Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.
(5) Les dérivés de polyaminoamides résultant de la condensation de polyalcoylènes polyamines avec des acides polycarboxyliques suivie d'une alcoylation par des agents bifonctionnel s . On peut citer par exemple l es polymères acide adipique-dialcoylamino hydroxyalcoyldialcoyl ène triamine dans lesquel s le groupe alcoyle comporte de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone et désigne de préférence méthyle, éthyle, propyle. De tel s polymères sont notamment décrits dans le brevet françai s 1 583 363 .  (5) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-dialkylamino hydroxyalkyl dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583,363.
Parmi ces dérivés, on peut citer plus particulièrement les polymères acide adipique / diméthylaminohydroxypropyl / diéthylène triamine vendus sous la dénomination " Cartaretine F, F4 ou F8 " par la société Sandoz.  Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.
(6) Les polymères obtenus par réaction d'une polyalkylène polyamine comportant deux groupements amine primaire et au moins un groupement amine secondaire avec un acide di carboxylique choi si parmi l'acide diglycolique et les acides dicarb oxyliques aliphatiques saturés ayant de 3 à 6 atomes de carbone . Le rapport molaire entre le polyalkylène polyamine et l'acide dicarb oxylique étant compri s entre 0, 8 : 1 et 1 ,4 : 1 ; le polyaminoamide en résultant étant amené à réagir avec l'épichlorhydrine dans un rapport molaire d'épichlorhydrine par rapport au groupement amine secondaire du polyaminoamide compri s entre 0, 5 : 1 et 1 , 8 : 1 . De tel s polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets américains 3 227 61 5 et 2 961 347.  (6) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a carboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 6 atoms of carbon . The molar ratio of polyalkylene polyamine to dicarboxylic acid is from 0.8: 1 to 1.4: 1; the resultant polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are especially described in US Patents 3,227,661 and 2,961,347.
Des polymères de ce type sont en particulier commerciali sés sous la dénomination "Hercosett 57 " par la société Hercules Inc. ou bien sous la dénomination de "PD 170 " ou "Del sette 101 " par la société Hercules dans le cas du copolymère d'acide adipique / époxypropyl / diéthylène-triamine. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or well under the name "PD 170" or "Del sette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine copolymer.
(7) Les cyclopolymères d'alkyldiallylamine ou de dialkyldiallylammonium tel s que les homopolymères ou copolymères comportant, comme constituant principal de la chaîne, des motifs répondant aux formules (XVI) ou (XVII) :  (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (XVI) or (XVII):
Figure imgf000053_0001
Figure imgf000053_0001
(XVI) (XVII) dans lesquelles k et t sont égaux à 0 ou 1 , la somme k + t étant égale à 1 ; R1 2 désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe méthyle ; Ri o et Ru , désignent chacun, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, un groupement hydroxyalkyle dans lequel le groupement alkyle a de préférence de 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, un groupement amidoalkyle inférieur (i. e. dont l a partie alkyle est en C 1 -C4), ou alors Ri o et Ru peuvent désigner conj ointement avec l'atome d'azote auquel il s sont rattachés, un groupement hétérocyclique, tel que pipéridinyl e ou morpholinyle ; Y" est un anion tel que bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bi sulfate, bi sulfite, sulfate, phosphate. Ces polymères sont notamment décrits dans le brevet françai s 2 080 759 et dans son certificat d'addition 2 190 406. (XVI) (XVII) wherein k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R 1 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; Ri o and Ru, each independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a group lower amidoalkyl (ie, the alkyl part of which is C 1 -C 4 ), or R 1 and R 2 may, together with the nitrogen atom to which it is attached, denote a heterocyclic group, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; ; Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfite, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate These polymers are described in particular in French Patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2 190,406.
De préférence, Ri o et Ru désignent chacun, indépendamment l'un de l' autre, un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone.  Preferably, Ri o and Ru denote, independently of one another, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Parmi les polymères défini s ci-dessus, on peut citer les homopolymères de chlorure de dialkyldiallylammonium, plus particulièrement l'homopolymère de chlorure de diméthyl diallyl- ammonium (nom INCI : Polyquaternium-6) vendu par exemple sous l a dénomination "MERQUAT® 100 " par la société NALCO (et ses homologues de faibles masses moléculaires moyenne en poids) et les copolymères de chlorure de dialkyldiallylammonium, plus particulièrement le copolymère de chlorure de diméthyldiallylammonium et d'acrylamide commerciali sés notamment sous la dénomination "MERQUAT® 550 " . Among the polymers defined above, homopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium chloride may be mentioned, more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-6) sold for example under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by NALCO (and its homologues of low molecular weight average) and copolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium chloride, more particularly the copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold in particular under the name "MERQUAT® 550".
(8) Les polymères de diammonium quaternaire contenant des motifs récurrents répondant à la formule (XVIII) :  (8) Quaternary diammonium polymers containing recurring units corresponding to formula (XVIII):
Figure imgf000054_0001
Figure imgf000054_0001
(XVIII)  (XVIII)
dans laquelle :  in which :
Rn , Ri 4 , Ri s et Ri 6 , identiques ou différents, représentent des groupes aliphatiques, alicycliques ou arylaliphatiques contenant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone ou des groupes hydroxyalkylaliphatiques inférieurs (i. e. dont l a partie alkyle est en C 1 -C4), ou bien Rn , Ri4, R15 et Ri 6 , ensemble ou séparément, constituent avec les atomes d'azote auxquel s il s sont rattachés des hétérocycles contenant éventuellement un second hétéroatome autre que l'azote, ou bien Rn , Ri 4 , Ri s et Ri 6 représentent chacun un groupe alkyle en C i -C6, linéaire ou ramifié, sub stitué par un groupement nitrile, ester, acyle, amide ou -CO-O-R17-E ou -CO-NH-R17-E où R17 est un groupe alkylène et E un groupement ammonium quaternaire ; Rn, Ri 4, Ri s and Ri 6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups (ie whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 4 ); , or Rn, Ri 4, R 15 and R 6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms it auxquel s s are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or Rn, R 4, R 1 and R 6 each represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group or -CO-O-R 17 -E or -CO-NH-R 17- Where R17 is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group;
Ai et B i représentent des groupements polyméthyléniques contenant de 2 à 8 atomes de carbone, pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, et pouvant contenir, liés à ou intercalés dans la chaîne principale, un ou plusieurs cycles aromatiques, ou un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène, de soufre ou des groupements sulfoxyde, sulfone, di sulfure, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyle, ammonium quaternaire, uréido, amide ou ester, et  Ai and B i represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
X" désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique ; Ai , Rn et R 1 5 peuvent former avec les deux atomes d'azote auxquel s il s sont rattachés un cycle pipérazinique ; en outre, si Ai désigne un groupe alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, B i peut également désigner un groupement : X " denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; A 1, R 1 and R 1 may form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they have attached a piperazine ring; furthermore, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B i may also denote a group:
-(CH2)n-CO-E'-OC-(CH2)n- dans lequel n désigne un nombre entier de 0 à 7 et E' désigne : a) un reste de glycol de formule -O-Z-O-, où Z désigne un groupe hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou un groupement répondant à l'une des formules suivantes : - (CH 2 ) n -CO-E'-OC- (CH 2 ) n - in which n denotes an integer from 0 to 7 and E 'denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:
-(CH2-CH2-0)x-CH2-CH2-- (CH 2 -CH 2 -0) x -CH 2 -CH 2 -
- [CH2-CH(CH3)-0]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- où x et y désignent chacun un nombre entier de 1 à 4, représentant un degré de polyméri sation défini et unique ou un nombre quelconque de 1 à 4 représentant un degré de polyméri sation moyen ; b) un reste de diamine bi s- secondaire tel qu'un dérivé de pipérazine ; - [CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O] y- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) - where x and y each denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or a number any of 1 to 4 representing a mean degree of polymerization; b) a bismaline secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
c) un reste de diamine bi s-primaire de formule -NH-Y-NH-, où c) a bi-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, where
Y désigne un groupe hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou bien le groupe divalent -CH2-CH2- S- S-CH2-CH2- ; Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or the divalent group -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -;
d) un groupement uréylène de formule -NH-CO-NH- .  d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
De préférence, X" est un anion tel que le chlorure ou l e bromure. Preferably, X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
Des polymères de ce type sont notamment décrits dans le s brevets françai s 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 3 16 271 , 2 336 434 et 2 413 907 et les brevets US 2 273 780, 2 375 853 , 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462, 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904, 4 005 193 , 4 025 61 7, 4 025 627, 4 025 653 , 4 026 945 et 4 027 020.  Polymers of this type are described in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853 and 2,388,614. 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,661, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4, 026,945 and 4,027,020.
On peut utili ser plus particulièrement les polymères qui sont constitués de motif récurrents répondant à la formule (XIX) :  Polymers which consist of repeating units having the formula (XIX) can be used more particularly:
Figure imgf000055_0001
Figure imgf000055_0001
(XIX) dans laquelle Rn , Ri 4 , Ri s et R16, identiques ou différents, désignent chacun un groupe alkyle ou hydroxyalkyle ayant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone environ, n et p sont des nombres entiers variant de 2 à 8 environ et, X" est un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique. De préférence, Rn , Ri 4 , Ri s et R16 désignent chacun un groupe méthyle. A titre d'exemple de polymère utili sable répondant à la formule (XIX), on peut citer le chlorure d'hexadiméthrine, commerciali sé sous la dénomination MEXOMERE PO par la société CHIMEX. (XIX) in which Rn, Ri 4, Ri s and R 16 , which are identical or different, each denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 8 and, X "is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. preferably, R, R 4, R s and R 16 each denote a methyl group. by way of example sand utili polymer of formula (XIX), it mention may be made of hexadimethrine chloride, marketed under the name MEXOMERE PO by the company CHIMEX.
(9) Les polymères de polyammonium quaternaire constitués de motifs de formule (XX) :  (9) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (XX):
CH, CH,  CH, CH,
-N - -(CH2)p— NH— CO- D-NH (CH2)p-N (CH2)2-0 (CH2)2 -N - - (CH 2 ) p - NH - CO - D - NH (CH 2 ) p - N (CH 2 ) 2 - O (CH 2 ) 2
CH, CH,
2 CH,  2 CH,
(XX) (XX)
dans laquelle :  in which :
p désigne un nombre entier variant de 1 à 6 environ,  p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6,
D peut être nul ou peut représenter un groupement  D may be zero or may represent a group
— (CH2)r— CO— dans lequel r désigne un nombre égal à 4 ou à 7, et - (CH 2 ) r - CO- wherein r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and
X" est un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique. X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
Les polymères cationiques comportant des motifs de formule (XX) sont notamment décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A- 122 324 et peuvent être préparés selon les procédés décrits dans les brevets U. S . A. n° 4 1 57 388, 4 390 689, 4 702 906, 4 719 282.  The cationic polymers containing units of formula (XX) are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324 and may be prepared according to the processes described in the U.S. patents. A. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,390,689, 4,702,906, 4,719,282.
Parmi ces polymères, on préfère ceux de masse molécul aire mesurée par RMN du Carbone 13 inférieure à 100000, et dans la formule de laquelle :  Among these polymers, those having a molecular weight measured by 13C NMR of less than 100,000 are preferred, and in the formula of which:
p est égal à 3 , et,  p is 3, and,
a) D représente un groupement -(CH2 ) 4-CO- , X désigne un atome de chlore, la masse moléculaire mesurée par RMN du Carbone 13 (RMN C) étant d'environ 5600 ; un polymère de ce type est proposé par la société MIRANOL sous le nom de MIRAPOL-ADl, a) D represents a group - (CH 2 ) 4 -CO-, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by carbon NMR 13 (C NMR) being about 5600; a polymer of this type is proposed by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-AD1,
b) D représente un groupement— (CH2)7— CO— , X désigne un atome de chlore, la masse moléculaire mesurée par RMN du Carbone 13 (RMN13C) étant d' environ 8100 ; un polymère de ce type est proposé par la société MIRANOL sous le nom de MIRAPOL-AZl, b) D represents a group - (CH 2 ) 7 -CO-, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by 13C NMR of Carbon 13 (NMR 13 C) being about 8100; a polymer of this type is proposed by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-AZl,
c) D désigne la valeur zéro, X désigne un atome de chlore, la masse moléculaire mesurée par RMN du Carbone 13, (RMN13C) étant d'environ 25500 ; un polymère de ce type est vendu par la société MIRANOL sous le nom MIRAPOL-A15, c) D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by NMR of Carbon 13, ( 13 C NMR) being approximately 25500; a polymer of this type is sold by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-A15,
d) un "Block Copolymer" formé de motifs correspondant aux polymères décrits aux alinéas a) et c), proposé par la société MIRANOL sous les noms MIRAPOL-9, (masse moléculaire RMN13C, environ 7800) MIRAPOL-175, (masse moléculaire RMN13C, environ 8000) MIRAPOL-95, (masse moléculaire RMN13C, environ 12500). d) a "Block Copolymer" formed from units corresponding to the polymers described in paragraphs a) and c), proposed by the company Miranol under the Mirapol-9 names, (molecular weight 13 C-NMR, about 7800) Mirapol-175 (mass 13 C NMR, about 8000) MIRAPOL-95, ( 13 C NMR molecular weight, about 12500).
Plus particulièrement encore, on préfère selon l'invention le polymère à motifs de formule (XV) dans laquelle p est égal à 3, D désigne la valeur zéro, X désigne un atome de chlore, la masse moléculaire mesurée par RMN du Carbone 13, (RMN13C) étant d'environ 25500. Even more particularly, it is preferred according to the invention the patterned polymer of formula (XV) in which p is equal to 3, D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by NMR of Carbon 13, (13 C NMR) being about 25,500.
(10) Les polymères quaternaires de vinylpyrrolidone et de vinylimidazole tels que par exemple les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 et FC 370 par la société B A S. F.  (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B A S.F.
(11) Les polyamines de suif cationiques éthoxylés comme le (11) ethoxylated cationic tallow polyamines such as
Polyquart H vendu par HENKEL, référencé sous le nom de " POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE " dans le dictionnaire CTFA. Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.
(12) Les homopolymères ou copolymères de vinylamide et en particulier les homopolymères de vinylamide partiellement hydrolysés tels que les poly(vinylamine/vinylamide). Ces polymères sont formés à partir d'au moins un monomère vinylamide répondant à la formule suivante :  (12) Homopolymers or copolymers of vinylamide and in particular partially hydrolysed vinylamide homopolymers such as poly (vinylamine / vinylamide). These polymers are formed from at least one vinylamide monomer corresponding to the following formula:
H2C=CR2NRC(0)R1 dans laquelle R, R1 et R2 sont chacun choisis parmi un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle en C1-C20, un groupe aryle et un groupe alkylaryle dont la partie alkyle comprend de 1 à 20 atomes de carbone. H 2 C = CR 2 NRC (O) R 1 wherein R, R 1 and R 2 are each selected from hydrogen, C 1 -C 20 alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl wherein the alkyl portion comprises 1 to 20 carbon atoms.
En particulier, ledit monomère peut être choisi parmi le N- vinylformamide, le N-méthyl-N-vinylacétamide et le N-vinyl acétamide. De préférence, on utilise le poly(vinylamine/N- vinylformamide) tel que commercialisé sous la dénomination CATIOFAST VMP par la société BASF ou sous la dénomination LUPAMIN 9030 par la société BASF.  In particular, said monomer may be chosen from N-vinylformamide, N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide and N-vinylacetamide. Poly (vinylamine / N-vinylformamide), as marketed under the name CATIOFAST VMP by the company BASF or under the name Lupamine 9030 by the company BASF, is preferably used.
Ces polymères peuvent être formés par exemple par polymérisation radicalaire d'un monomère vinylamide puis hydrolyse acide ou basique partielle des fonctions amides en fonctions aminés quaternisables, tel que décrit dans les demandes WO 2007/005577, US 5,374,334, US 6,426,383 et US 6,894,110.  These polymers may be formed, for example, by radical polymerization of a vinylamide monomer and then partial acidic or basic hydrolysis of the amide functions to quaternizable amine functions, as described in applications WO 2007/005577, US Pat. Nos. 5,374,334, 6,426,383 and 6,894,110.
(13) Les polyuréthanes cationiques.  (13) Cationic polyurethanes.
Parmi tous les polyuréthanes cités ci-dessus, on utilise de préférence, les polyuréthanes formés par les monomères suivants :  Among all the polyurethanes mentioned above, the polyurethanes formed by the following monomers are preferably used:
(al) au moins un N-méthyl diéthanolamine (noté NMDEA), (a2) au moins un copolymère d'éthylène/butylène non ionique tel que commercialisé sous la dénomination Krasol LBH-P 2000, et (a1) at least one N-methyl diethanolamine (denoted NMDEA), (a2) at least one nonionic ethylene / butylene copolymer as sold under the name Krasol LBH-P 2000, and
(b) au moins un isophrone diisocyanate (noté IPDI). (b) at least one isophrone diisocyanate (denoted IPDI).
De préférence, les aminés formant les motifs cationiques (al) représentent de 0,1% à 50% en poids, en particulier de 1% à 30% en poids, et mieux encore de 5 % à 20% en poids, du poids total du polyuréthane final.  Preferably, the amines forming the cationic units (a1) represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, of the total weight final polyurethane.
Ces polyuréthanes et leurs synthèses sont décrits par exemple dans la demande de brevet FR-A-2898603.  These polyurethanes and their syntheses are described for example in the patent application FR-A-2898603.
(14) D'autres polymères cationiques utilisables dans le cadre de l'invention sont des protéines cationiques ou des hydrolysats de protéines cationiques, des polyalkylèneimines, en particulier des polyéthylèneimines, des polymères contenant des motifs vinylpyridine ou vinylpyridinium, et les dérivés de la chitine. Parmi tous les polymères cationiques susceptibles d'être utilisés dans le cadre de la présente invention, on préfère mettre en œuvre, un copolymère d'hydroxyéthylcellulose et de chlorure de diallyl diméthyl ammonium (Polyquaternium-4) ou du polyquaternium- 11 dans la composition selon l'invention. (14) Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and chitin derivatives. . Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use a copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-4) or polyquaternium-11 in the composition according to the present invention. the invention.
Lorsque la composition comprend au moins un polymère cationique, celui-ci ou ceux-ci sont présents dans une concentration allant de préférence de 0,01 à 10% en poids, du poids total de la composition.  When the composition comprises at least one cationic polymer, the latter or they are present in a concentration ranging preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
La composition peut comprendre en plus de la ou des silicone(s) élastomère(s) utilisée(s) selon l'invention, un ou plusieurs agents épaississants.  The composition may comprise, in addition to the one or more elastomeric silicone (s) used according to the invention, one or more thickening agents.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par agent épaississant, un agent qui introduit à 1% en poids dans une solution aqueuse ou hydroalcoolique à 30 % en poids d'éthanol, et à pH = 7, permet d'atteindre une viscosité d'au moins 100 cPs, de préférence d'au moins 500 cPs, à 25°C et à un taux de cisaillement de ls"1. Cette viscosité peut être mesurée à l'aide d'un viscosimètre cône/plan (Rhéomètre Haake R600 ou analogue). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickening agent" is understood to mean an agent which introduces at 1% by weight into an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% by weight of ethanol, and at pH = 7, makes it possible to attain a viscosity of at least 100 cPs, preferably at least 500 cPs, at 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1 sec -1 This viscosity can be measured using a cone / planar viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or the like).
Le ou les agents épaississants peuvent être choisis parmi le chlorure de sodium, les amides d'acides gras obtenus à partir d'acide carboxylique en C10-C30 (monoisopropanol-, diéthanol- ou monoéthanol-amide d'acides de coprah, monoéthanolamide d'acide alkyl éther carboxylique oxyéthyléné), les épaississants cellulosiques non ioniques (hydroxyéthycellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxyméthylcellulose), la gomme de guar et ses dérivés non ioniques (hydroxypropylguar), les gommes d'origine microbienne (gomme de xanthane, gomme de scléroglucane), les amidons et dérivés d'amidon (phosphate d'amidon hydroxypropylé, amidon de pomme de terre modifié), les homo- et copolymères réticulés ou non réticulés à base d'acide acrylique, d'acide méthacrylique ou d'acide acrylamidopropanesulfonique, tel que par exemple les homopolymères d'acide acrylique réticulés (Carbomer) vendus notamment sous le nom de Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer par la société Lubrizol, et les polymères associatifs tels que décrits ci-dessous. The thickening agent (s) may be chosen from sodium chloride, fatty acid amides obtained from C 10 -C 30 carboxylic acid (monoisopropanol-, diethanol- or coconut monoethanolamide, monoethanolamide). oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid), nonionic cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), starches and starch derivatives (hydroxypropylated starch phosphate, modified potato starch), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, such as by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers (Carbomer) sold in particular under the name Carbopol Ultrez Polymer by Lubrizol, and associative polymers as described below.
Le ou les polymères associatifs utili sables selon l'invention sont des polymères hydrosolubles capables, dans un milieu aqueux, de s'associer réversiblement entre eux ou avec d'autres molécules.  The associative polymer or polymers that can be used according to the invention are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
Leur structure chimique comprend des zones hydrophiles, et des zones hydrophobes caractéri sées par au moins une chaîne grasse comportant de préférence de 10 à 30 atomes de carbone.  Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
Le ou les polymères associatifs utili sables selon l'invention peuvent être de type anionique, cationi que, amphotère ou non ionique, tel s que les polymères commerciali sés sous les appellations PEMULEN TRI ou TR2 par la société GOODRICH (INCI : Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), SALCARE SC90 par la société CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28 , 33 , 44 ou 46 par la société ROHM & HAAS et ELFACO S T210 et T212 par la société AKZO .  The associative polymer (s) used according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type, such as the polymers sold under the names PEMULEN TRI or TR2 by the company GOODRICH (INCI: Acrylates / C 10 -30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACO S T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.
De préférence, le ou les agents épai ssi ssants sont non ioniques . Preferably, the thickening agent (s) are nonionic.
Parmi tous les agents épai ssi ssants cités, le ou les agents épai ssi ssants sont choi si s de préférence parmi les homopolymères et copolymères à base d' acide acrylique ou d' acide méthacrylique, de préférence réticulés, les gommes de guar et ses dérivés non ioniques, l ' amidon et ses dérivés. Of all the thickeners mentioned above, the thickening agent (s) are preferably chosen from homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, preferably crosslinked, guar gums and its derivatives. nonionic, starch and its derivatives.
Lorsque la composition comprend au moins un agent épai ssi ssant, celui-ci ou ceux-ci sont présents dans une concentration allant de préférence de 0, 01 à 10% en poi ds, du poids total de la composition.  When the composition comprises at least one thickening agent, the latter or these are present in a concentration preferably ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition cosmétique selon l'invention peut avoir un pH compri s entre 3 et 10, et préférentiellement entre 5 et 7. Ce pH peut être ajusté à l ' aide d' agents acidifiants et d' agents alcalini sants, classiquement utilisés dans le domaine cosmétique.  The cosmetic composition according to the invention can have a pH of between 3 and 10, and preferably between 5 and 7. This pH can be adjusted by means of acidifying agents and alkaline agents, conventionally used in the field. cosmetic.
Parmi les agents acidifiants, on peut citer, à titre d'exemple, les acides minéraux ou organiques comme l' acide chlorhydrique, l'acide orthophosphorique, l'acide sulfurique, les acides sulfoniques et les acides carb oxyliques comme l'acide acétique, l' acide tartrique, l'acide citrique et l'acide lactique. Parmi les agents alcalini sants on peut citer, à titre d'exempl e, l'ammoniaque, les carbonates alcalins, les alcanolamines tell es que les mono-, di- et triéthanolamines ainsi que leurs dérivés, les hydroxydes de sodium ou de potassium et les composés de formule (XXI) suivante : a\ / b Acidifying agents include, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acids and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid. Among the alkaline agents that may be mentioned, by way of example, are ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, hydroxides of sodium or potassium, and the compounds of formula (XXI) below: a \ / b
N— W-N  N-W-N
/ \  / \
Rc x Rd R c x R d
(XXI)  (XXI)
dans laquelle : in which :
W est un reste propylène éventuellement sub stitué par un groupe hydroxyle ou un groupe alkyle en C 1 -C4 ; W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group;
Ra, Rb, Rc et Rd, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle en C 1 -C4 ou hydroxyalkyle en C 1 -C4. R a, R b, R c and R d, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group in C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl or C 1 -C 4.
La composition peut comprendre en outre au moins un additif cosmétique couramment utili sé dans la technique, tel que, par exemple, des agents antioxydants, des filtres ultra-violets organiques, des filtres ultra-violets inorganiques, des adouci ssants, des agents anti-mousses, des agents hydratants, des agents émollients, des plastifiants, des charges minérales, des argiles, des minéraux colloïdaux, des nacres, des parfums, des pepti sants, des céramides, des conservateurs, des protéines, des vitamines, et les mélanges de ces composés.  The composition may further comprise at least one cosmetic additive commonly used in the art, such as, for example, antioxidants, organic ultraviolet filters, inorganic ultraviolet filters, sweeteners, anti-oxidants, foams, moisturizers, emollients, plasticizers, mineral fillers, clays, colloidal minerals, pearlescent agents, fragrances, peptides, ceramides, preservatives, proteins, vitamins, and mixtures of these compounds.
Les quantités de ces différents adj uvants sont celles classiquement utili sées dans les domaines considérés .  The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.
L'homme du métier veillera à choisir les éventuel s additifs et leurs quantités de manière à ce qu'il s ne nui sent pas aux propriétés de la composition comprenant la ou les silicones élastomères particulières de la présente invention.  Those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additives and their amounts so that it does not harm the properties of the composition comprising the particular elastomeric silicone or silicones of the present invention.
La composition selon l ' invention peut se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques normalement utili sées pour une application topique.  The composition according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used for topical application.
La composition aqueuse selon l'invention peut être rincée ou non rincée. De préférence, la composition aqueuse est une composition rincée, telle qu' une composition de soin rincée. La présente invention a enfin pour obj et l' utili sation d' une ou plusieurs silicone(s) élastomère(s) polyoxyalkylénée(s) et/ou polyglycérolée(s) et un ou plusieurs corps gras non siliconés dans une composition capillaire aqueuse, pour mettre en forme, notamment boucler, fri ser, défri ser, li sser et di scipliner des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, sensibili sées ou non. The aqueous composition according to the invention may be rinsed or not rinsed. Preferably, the aqueous composition is a rinsed composition, such as a rinsed care composition. Finally, the present invention is directed to the use of one or more polyoxyalkylenated (s) and / or polyglycerolated (s) elastomeric silicone (s) and one or more non-silicone fatty substances in an aqueous hair composition, to shape, in particular to curl, fri er, defri ser, bind and di scipliner keratin fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, sensitized or not.
Les silicone(s) élastomère(s) polyoxyalkylénée(s) et/ou polyglycérolée(s), les corps gras non siliconés et la composition capillaire aqueuse sont tel s que décrits ci-dessus .  The polyoxyalkylenated and / or polyglycerolated elastomeric silicone (s), the non-silicone fatty substances and the aqueous hair composition are as described above.
De manière surprenante et avantageuse, la demanderesse a découvert que l'utili sation d' une ou plusieurs silicone(s) élastomère(s) polyoxyalkyl énée(s) et/ou polyglycérolée(s), comme sub stance(s) active(s) et un ou plusieurs corps gras non siliconés dans une composition capillaire aqueuse, permettait de faciliter et d' améliorer la mi se en forme des cheveux, notamment le li ssage ou la création de boucle, de manière durable, sans altération chimique et sans conduire à un durci ssement ou à un toucher gras de la fibre capillaire.  Surprisingly and advantageously, the applicant has discovered that the use of one or more polyoxyalkylated and / or polyglycerolated elastomer silicone (s), as active substance (s) (s). ) and one or more non-silicone fatty substances in an aqueous hair composition, facilitated and improved hair shaping, including bonding or looping, in a durable manner, without chemical alteration and without driving. hardening or greasy feel of the hair fiber.
En particulier, la demanderesse a découvert que l'utili sation d' une ou plusieurs silicone(s) élastomère(s) polyoxyalkylénée(s) et/ou polyglycérolée(s) et un ou plusieurs corps gras non siliconés, permettait de mettre en forme des fibres kératiniques de manière efficace et durable notamment dans des conditions d' humidité relative élevée (au moins 80% par exemple) ou même après plusieurs lavages, sans altération chimique de la fibre capillaire.  In particular, the Applicant has discovered that the use of one or more silicone (s) polyoxyalkylenated eluent (s) and / or polyglycerolated (s) and one or more non-silicone fatty substances, allowed to formulate keratin fibers in an effective and durable manner, especially under conditions of high relative humidity (at least 80% for example) or even after several washes, without chemical alteration of the hair fiber.
On a ob servé qu'une telle utili sation permettait notamment d' améliorer la mi se en forme (les cheveux sont plus li sses, les boucles sont plus marquées, mieux dessinées), la facilité de mi se en forme et la tenue de la mise en forme des cheveux, indépendamment de sa nature (caucasien ou européen, asiatique et africain), comparativement aux produits de traitement des cheveux classiques à base de silicone non élastomère, telle que l ' amodiméthicone par exemple. Les coiffures obtenues en mettant en œuvre le procédé selon l ' invention tiennent au moins 24h même dans de forte conditions d' humidité rel ative . Les performances coiffantes de li ssage ou de mi se en boucles peuvent ainsi persi ster environ une semaine. On peut ainsi effectuer un traitement toutes les semaines pour assurer un effet continu. It has been observed that such use makes it possible in particular to improve the shape (the hair is more delicate, the loops are more pronounced, better drawn), the ease of being shaped and the holding of the hair shaping, regardless of its nature (Caucasian or European, Asian and African), compared to conventional non-elastomeric silicone hair treatment products, such as amodimethicone for example. The hairstyles obtained by implementing the method according to the invention take at least 24 hours even in strong conditions of relative moisture. The Styling performances of binding or looping can thus persist for about a week. This can be done weekly to ensure a continuous effect.
En outre, l ' utili sation de ces silicones élastomères polyoxyalkylénée(s) et/ou polyglycérolée(s) et un ou plusieurs corps gras non siliconés en milieu aqueux, notamment dans l e cadre du procédé de mi se en forme des fibres kératiniques selon l ' invention, est particulièrement avantageuse pour mettre en forme des fibres kératiniques sensibili sées sans que ceux-ci soient d' avantage fragili sés ou abîmés et que le toucher soit altéré.  In addition, the use of these polyoxyalkylenated (and / or polyglycerolated) elastomer silicones and one or more non-silicone fatty substances in an aqueous medium, particularly in the context of the process for forming keratin fibers according to The invention is particularly advantageous for shaping sensitized keratinous fibers without the latter becoming brittle or damaged and the touch being altered.
Les exemples qui suivent sont destinés à illustrer l'invention sans pour autant présenter un caractère limitatif.  The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.
EXEMPLES EXAMPLES
Les compositions suivantes ont été préparées selon les tableaux suivants. Les quantités sont indiquées en pour cent en poids de matière active (M. A.) par rapport au poids total de chaque composition. The following compositions were prepared according to the following tables. The amounts are indicated in percent by weight of active ingredient (M.A.) relative to the total weight of each composition.
Exemple 1 : Masques rincés Example 1: Rinsed Masks
Figure imgf000063_0001
Figure imgf000063_0001
: Lanette O OR vendu par la société Cogni s ' : Crodamol MS-PA vendu par la société Croda : Lanette O OR sold by the company Cogni s Crodamol MS-PA sold by Croda
3) : KSG 210 vendu par la société Shin Etsu (INCI : Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer) 3) : KSG 210 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer)
4) : Genamin KDMP vendu par la société Clariant (INCI : Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Isopropyl alcohol) 4) : Genamin KDMP sold by Clariant (INCI: Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Isopropyl alcohol)
Exemple 2 : Masques rincés Example 2: Rinsed Masks
Figure imgf000064_0001
Figure imgf000064_0001
' : Lanette O OR vendu par la société Cognis  ': Lanette O OR sold by Cognis
2) : Crodamol MS-PA vendu par la société Croda 2) : Crodamol MS-PA sold by Croda
3) : KSG 210 vendu par la société Shin Etsu (INCI : Dimethicone d) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer) 4) : K SG 330 vendu par la société Shin Etsu (INCI : Triethylhexanoin (and) PEG- 1 5/Lauryl Diméthicone Crosspolymer) 3) : KSG 210 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Dimethicone d) Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer) 4) : K SG 330 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Triethylhexanoin (and) PEG-1 5 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer)
5 ) : KSG 8 10 vendu par la société Shin Etsu (INCI : Minerai Oil (and) Lauryl dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer) 5) : KSG 8 10 sold by the company Shin Etsu (INCI: Mineral Oil (and) Lauryl dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer)
6) : K SG 380Z vendu par la société Shin Etsu (INCI : Dodecamethylpentasiloxane (and) PEG- 1 5/Lauryl polydimethyl siloxyethyl diméthicone Crosspolymer) 6) : K SG 380Z sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Dodecamethylpentasiloxane (and) PEG-15 / Lauryl polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone Crosspolymer)
7) : K SG 3 10 vendu par la société Shin Etsu (INCI : Minerai O il (and) PEG- 1 5/Lauryl Diméthicone Crosspolymer) 7) : K SG 3 10 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Ore O (and) PEG-1 5 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer)
8) : Genamin KDMP vendu par la société Clariant (INCI : B ehentrimonium Chloride (and) Isopropyl alcohol) 8) : Genamin KDMP sold by the company Clariant (INCI: Bhetronium Chloride (and) Isopropyl alcohol)
Exemple 3 : Masques rincés Example 3: Rinsed Masks
Figure imgf000065_0001
Figure imgf000065_0001
: Lanette O OR vendu par la société Cogni s  : Lanette O OR sold by the company Cogni s
: Crodamol MS-PA vendu par la société Croda  Crodamol MS-PA sold by Croda
Afrokite (RSPO)/SG vendu par la société Aarhuskarl shamn ' : Structure ZEA vendu par la société Akzo Nobel (INCI : Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate) Afrokite (RSPO) / SG sold by Aarhuskarl shamn ZEA structure sold by the company Akzo Nobel (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate)
5) : KSG 210 vendu par la société Shin Etsu (INCI : Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer) 5) : KSG 210 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer)
6) : Simulsol CS vendu par la société SEPPIC (INCI : Ceteareth-6 ) : Simulsol CS sold by the company SEPPIC (INCI: Ceteareth-
33) 33)
Exemple 4 : Conditionneurs rincés  Example 4: Rinsed conditioners
Figure imgf000066_0001
Figure imgf000066_0001
' : Softisan vendu par la société Sasol (INCI : Bis-diglycéryl Polyacyladipate-2)  ': Softisan sold by the company Sasol (INCI: Bis-diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2)
2) : Lanette 16 vendu par la société Cognis 2) : Lanette 16 sold by Cognis
3) : Crodamol MS-PA vendu par la société Croda 3) : Crodamol MS-PA sold by Croda
4) : K-PEG 180 vendu par la société Kao (INCI : PEG-180) 4) : K-PEG 180 sold by the company Kao (INCI: PEG-180)
5) Natrosol 250 HHR PC vendu par la société Aqualon ' : DC5200 Formulation Aid vendu par la société Dow Corning (INCI : Lauryl PEG/PPG- 1 8/ 1 8 Methicone (and) Dodecene (and) Poloxamer 407) 5) Natrosol 250 HHR PC sold by Aqualon ': DC5200 Formulation Aid sold by the Dow Corning Company (INCI: Lauryl PEG / PPG-1 8/1 8 Methicone (and) Dodecene (and) Poloxamer 407)
7) : KSG 210 vendu par la société Shin Etsu (INCI : Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/PEG- 10/ 1 5 Crosspolymer) 7) : KSG 210 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / PEG-10/1 5 Crosspolymer)
8) : Genamin KDMP vendu par la société Clariant (INCI : B ehentrimonium Chloride (and) Isopropyl alcohol) 8) : Genamin KDMP sold by the company Clariant (INCI: Bhetronium Chloride (and) Isopropyl alcohol)
Exemple 5 : Soins non rincés Example 5: Unflushed Care
Figure imgf000067_0001
Figure imgf000067_0001
: Lanette O OR vendu par la société Cogni s ' : Crodamol MS-PA vendu par la société Croda : Lanette O OR sold by the company Cogni s Crodamol MS-PA sold by Croda
3) : Celquat LOR vendu par la société Akzo Nobel (INCI : Polyquaternium- 3) : Celquat LOR sold by the company Akzo Nobel (INCI: Polyquaternium-
4) 4)
4) : Jaguar HP 105 vendu par la société Rhodia 4) : Jaguar HP 105 sold by Rhodia
5) : Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer vendu par la société Lubrizol 5): Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer sold by Lubrizol
6) : Structure Solanace vendu par la société Akzo Nobel 6) : Solanace structure sold by Akzo Nobel
7) : KSG 210 vendu par la société Shin Etsu (INCI : Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer) 7) : KSG 210 sold by Shin Etsu (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer)
8) : Genamin KDMP vendu par la société Clariant (INCI : Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Isopropyl alcohol) 8) : Genamin KDMP sold by Clariant (INCI: Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Isopropyl alcohol)
9) : Cetiol UT vendu par la société Cognis  9): Cetiol UT sold by Cognis
Evaluation des compositions Analyse sensorielle Evaluation of compositions Sensory analysis
Pour chaque composition selon l'invention, on procède comme suit. On applique la composition à raison de 10g sur une demi-tête. Après un temps de pose de deux minutes, on rince les cheveux puis on les pré-sèche au sèche-cheveux. On passe ensuite une pince plate chauffée à 210°C sur les cheveux.  For each composition according to the invention, the procedure is as follows. The composition is applied at the rate of 10 g on a half-head. After a two-minute exposure time, the hair is rinsed and then pre-dried with a hair dryer. Then a flat clip heated to 210 ° C on the hair.
Résultats de l'analyse sensorielle: Results of the sensory analysis:
On a observé que les compositions rincées ou non rincées A à K selon l'invention présentent de bonnes propriétés coiffantes (discipline) et de bonne propriétés cosmétiques (lissage).  It has been observed that the rinsed or non-rinsed compositions A to K according to the invention have good styling properties (discipline) and good cosmetic properties (smoothing).
En outre, aucun effet de durcissement du cheveu habituellement lié aux polymères de coiffage n'est observé. De même, aucun effet de dégradation de la fibre capillaire habituellement lié au traitement chimique durable de mise en forme n'est observé.  In addition, no curing effect of the hair usually related to styling polymers is observed. Similarly, no deterioration effect of the hair fiber usually associated with the durable chemical shaping treatment is observed.
En particulier, on a observé que la composition B conduisait à des cheveux plus lisses et plus disciplinés par rapport à une composition de formule identique comprenant une amodiméthicone au lieu de la silicone élastomère. En outre, il a été observé une facilité de lissage accrue et une discipline accrue qui durent plus longtemps. Ces résultats ont été observés sur cheveux caucasiens, asiatiques et européens. In particular, it was observed that composition B led to smoother and more disciplined hair compared to a composition of identical formula comprising an amodimethicone instead of elastomeric silicone. In addition, it was observed a smoothing facility increased and increased discipline that lasts longer. These results were observed on Caucasian, Asian and European hair.
Analyse d'image Image Analysis
On a comparé les compositions B et B' (B' étant une composition comparative identique à la composition B, mais comprenant une amodiméthicone à la place de la silicone élastomère KSG 210).  Compositions B and B '(B' being a comparative composition identical to composition B, but comprising an amodimethicone in place of KSG 210 elastomeric silicone) were compared.
On a appliqué sur 3 mèches identiques de 1 gramme de cheveux naturellement frisés de type caucasien, ayant préalablement subies 2 décolorations (à l'aide du produit vendu sous le nom Platifiz) une même quantité de composition B ou B' puis on a rincé les cheveux.  3 identical locks of 1 gram of naturally curly hair of Caucasian type, having previously undergone 2 discolorations (with the aid of the product sold under the name Platifiz), were applied to the same quantity of composition B or B 'and then the rinses were rinsed. hair.
Les mèches sont ensuite pré-séchées à plat au casque, à une température d'environ 60°C pendant lOmn, puis peignées avant d'être lissées à l'aide d'un fer à lisser à 210°C. Le fer est appliqué 5 fois.  The locks are then pre-dried flat with the helmet at a temperature of about 60 ° C for 10 minutes, then combed before being smoothed with a straightener at 210 ° C. The iron is applied 5 times.
On a évalué par analyse d'image l'apport de discipline de chacune des compositions B et B' testées, avant traitement, juste après traitement (t0) et après 24h d'exposition dans un environnement à 80% d'humidité relative. Plus la dispersion (défaut d'alignement) mesurée est faible, plus le produit est disciplinant. Imaging was evaluated by the analysis of each of compositions B and B 'tested, before treatment, just after treatment (t 0 ) and after 24 hours of exposure in an environment at 80% relative humidity. The lower the measured dispersion (misalignment), the more disciplining the product.
Résultats de l'analyse d'image: Results of the image analysis:
Figure imgf000069_0001
Figure imgf000069_0001
Les résultats après 24h d'exposition à un environnement à fort taux d'humidité montrent que les cheveux traités avec la composition B ont conservé leur effet disciplinant, contrairement aux cheveux traités avec la composition B'. Par conséquent, la composition selon l'invention permet d'améliorer l'effet disciplinant (lissage et facilité de lissage) des cheveux dans le temps dans des conditions de forte humidité relative. The results after 24 hours of exposure to a high humidity environment show that the hair treated with the composition B retained their disciplining effect, unlike the hair treated with the composition B '. Consequently, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the disciplining effect (smoothing and ease of smoothing) of the hair over time under conditions of high relative humidity.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines, telles que des cheveux, comprenant une étape d'application d'une composition comprenant une ou plusieurs silicone(s) élastomère(s) et au moins une étape simultanée, préalable et/ou postérieure de traitement thermique desdites fibres kératiniques. A method for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising a step of applying a composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicone (s) and at least one simultaneous step, prior and / or subsequent heat treatment of said keratinous fibers.
2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que lors du ou des traitements thermiques, la température des fibres kératiniques est portée à au moins 40°C, et plus préférentiellement à au moins 150°C.  2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that during the heat treatment or treatments, the temperature of the keratin fibers is raised to at least 40 ° C, and more preferably to at least 150 ° C.
3. Procédé selon les revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que lors du ou des traitements thermiques, la température va de 40 à 250°C, et préférentiellement de 150 à 250°C, encore plus préférentiellement de 150 à 220°C.  3. Method according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that during the heat treatment or treatments, the temperature is from 40 to 250 ° C, and preferably from 150 to 250 ° C, even more preferably from 150 to 220 ° C.
4. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une étape de mise en forme des fibres kératiniques, pouvant être distincte de l'étape ou des étapes de traitement thermique des fibres kératiniques, ou réalisée simultanément à l'étape ou une des étapes de traitement thermique des fibres kératiniques.  4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises a step of shaping the keratin fibers, which can be distinct from the step or heat treatment steps of the keratinous fibers, or carried out simultaneously with the step or one of the heat treatment steps of the keratinous fibers.
5. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que l'on applique sur les fibres kératiniques, un dispositif chauffant à conduction thermique, un dispositif chauffant à rayonnements infrarouges et/ou un dispositif chauffant à convection thermique.  5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that is applied to the keratinous fibers, a heat conductive heating device, an infrared radiation heating device and / or a thermal convection heating device.
6. Procédé selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que le dispositif chauffant à conduction thermique est un dispositif de mise en forme chauffant, tel qu'un fer à lisser, un fer à boucler éventuellement en présence de vapeur d'eau. 6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that the heat conductive heating device is a heating shaping device, such as a straightening iron, a loop iron optionally in the presence of steam.
7. Procédé selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes dans l'ordre suivant : 7. Method according to claim 6, characterized in that it comprises the following steps in the following order:
- application de la composition comportant une ou plusieurs silicones élastomères telles que définies précédemment, sur les fibres kératiniques,  - application of the composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicones as defined above, on keratinous fibers,
- rinçage de la composition à l'eau après un temps de pause éventuel, séchage total ou partiel des fibres kératiniques ou traitement thermique des fibres kératiniques à une température allant de 40°C à 65°C,  rinsing the composition with water after a possible pause time, total or partial drying of the keratinous fibers or heat treatment of the keratin fibers at a temperature ranging from 40 ° C to 65 ° C,
- coiffage éventuel des fibres kératiniques, - Possible hairstyling of keratinous fibers,
- mise en forme des fibres kératiniques à l'aide d'un moyen de mise en forme chauffant à une température allant de préférence de 150 à 250°C, préférentiellement de 150 à 250°C, et encore plus préférentiellement de 150 à 220°C.  - Shaping the keratin fibers using a shaping means heated to a temperature preferably ranging from 150 to 250 ° C, preferably from 150 to 250 ° C, and even more preferably from 150 to 220 ° C vs.
8. Procédé selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes dans l'ordre suivant :  8. Method according to claim 6, characterized in that it comprises the following steps in the following order:
- application de la composition comportant une ou plusieurs silicones élastomères telles que définies précédemment, sur les fibres kératiniques,  - application of the composition comprising one or more elastomeric silicones as defined above, on keratinous fibers,
- sans rinçage intermédiaire, - without intermediate rinsing,
- coiffage éventuel des fibres kératiniques,  - Possible hairstyling of keratinous fibers,
- traitement thermique et mise en forme simultanée des fibres kératiniques à l'aide d'un moyen de mise en forme chauffant à une température allant de préférence de 150 à 250°C, préférentiellement de 150 à 250°C, et encore plus préférentiellement de 150 à 220°C.  heat treatment and simultaneous shaping of the keratinous fibers by means of a heating shaping means at a temperature preferably ranging from 150 to 250 ° C., preferably from 150 to 250 ° C., and even more preferentially from 150 to 220 ° C.
9. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la ou les silicone(s) élastomère(s) sont des silicones élastomères réticulées comprenant au moins une chaîne hydrophile polyoxyalkylénée ou polyglycérolée, et de préférence polyoxyéthylénée.  9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone (s) elastomer (s) are crosslinked elastomeric silicones comprising at least one hydrophilic polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated chain, and preferably polyoxyethylenated.
10. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédente, caractérisé en ce que la silicone élastomère est sous forme de particules non-sphériques. 10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the elastomeric silicone is in the form of non-spherical particles.
1 1 . Procédé selon l ' une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractéri sé en ce que la composition comprend de 0, 1 à 10% en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 0,2 à 5% en poids, mieux de 0, 5 à 2% en poids de silicone(s) élastomère(s) par rapport au poids total de la composition. 1 1. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight. weight of silicone (s) elastomer (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Procédé selon l ' une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractéri sé en ce que la composition comprend de 5 % à 99,9%) en poids, plus préférentiellement de 50 à 99, 9% en poids, mieux de 70%) à 98, 5%o en poids, et mieux encore de 80 à 95% en poids d' eau, par rapport au poids total de la composition.  12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises from 5% to 99.9% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 99.9% by weight, better still from 70% to 98.5% by weight, and more preferably 80 to 95% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the composition.
13 . Procédé selon l ' une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractéri sé en ce que la composition comprend au moins un corps gras non siliconé et/ou au moins une silicone non élastomère, et/ou au moins un tensioactif de préférence cationique, et/ou au moins un polymère cationique.  13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance and / or at least one non-elastomeric silicone, and / or at least one preferably cationic surfactant, and / or at least one minus a cationic polymer.
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FR1151319A FR2971710B1 (en) 2011-02-17 2011-02-17 USE OF POLYOXYALKYLENE (S) AND / OR POLYGLYCEROLE (S) ELASTOMERATED (S) SILICONE (S) IN AN AQUEOUS COMPOSITION FOR SHAPING KERATIN FIBERS
FR1151320A FR2971709B1 (en) 2011-02-17 2011-02-17 PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS USING ELASTOMERIC SILICONE IN ASSOCIATION WITH HEAT
US201161448325P 2011-03-02 2011-03-02
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