WO2012055805A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a fatty-chain alkoxysilane and a siliceous cosmetic agent. - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising a fatty-chain alkoxysilane and a siliceous cosmetic agent. Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012055805A1
WO2012055805A1 PCT/EP2011/068520 EP2011068520W WO2012055805A1 WO 2012055805 A1 WO2012055805 A1 WO 2012055805A1 EP 2011068520 W EP2011068520 W EP 2011068520W WO 2012055805 A1 WO2012055805 A1 WO 2012055805A1
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group
groups
chosen
formula
linear
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PCT/EP2011/068520
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French (fr)
Inventor
Samira Khenniche
Grégory Plos
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from FR1058806A external-priority patent/FR2966355B1/en
Priority claimed from FR1058807A external-priority patent/FR2966356B1/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2012055805A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012055805A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/94—Involves covalent bonding to the substrate

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising a fatty-chain alkoxysilane and a siliceous cosmetic agent.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition compri sing one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes and one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysil anes of different chemical structures from the first ones, and mixtures thereof.
  • the present invention al so relates to the use of the sai d composition for caring for keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and in particular the hair, and al so to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres using such a composition.
  • fibres subj ected to various external attacking factors may be subj ect to attacks of various origins, such as mechanical attack, for example linked to di sentangling or blow-drying, or alternatively chemical attack, for example following dyeing or permanent-waving.
  • compositions that can facilitate di sentangling by softening the keratin fibre and that afford gloss, softness and uniformity to dry hair essentially compri se cationic surfactants, fatty sub stances, silicones and cationic polymers.
  • compositions After having been applied, these compositions are rinsed out, and the cosmetic conditioning agents, which are only lightly deposited on the keratin fibres, are generally removed at the time of the next wash.
  • the application of these compositi ons must be repeated after each wash, in order to treat the hair and to facilitate its conditioning.
  • compositions that can form a material or that can deposit care active agents uniformly onto and/or into the keratin fibres, in a manner that i s resi stant to shampooing several times.
  • Patent application EP 0 1 59 628 proposes compositions for reinforcing the elasticity of the hair, compri sing an alkyltrialkoxysilane.
  • patent application EP 1 736 139 describes a hair treatment composition compri sing an alkoxysilane, an organic aci d and water, the pH of the composition being between 2 and 5.
  • patent application EP 0 877 027 di scloses a composition comprising an organosilane and a particular polyol.
  • the Applicant has now di scovered, surpri singly, that a combination of a particular fatty-chain alkoxysilane with at least one siliceous cosmetic agent chosen from silicones, alkoxysilanes of different chemical structures from the first ones, and mixtures thereof, in proportions defined b elow, can afford efficient and l ong-lasting treatment of the hair, and thus facilitate its conditioning.
  • such a composition can, firstly, give the head of hair good cosmetic properties, and, secondly, give cosmetic effects that are resi stant to shampooing several times.
  • One subj ect of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysilanes other than those of formula (I), and mixtures thereof, in a proportion ranging from 0.00 1 %) to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention further concerns a cosmetic composition, obtainable by mixing the following ingredients :
  • one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysilanes other than those of formula (I), and mixtures thereof, in a proportion ranging from 0.00 1 %) to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Thi s particular combination proves to b e particularly suitable for caring for the hair and al so makes it possible to obtain very good working qualities such as particularly easy application and good rinseability.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention gives the head of hair excellent cosmetic properties, and in particular promotes the di sentangling, suppleness, softness, lightness and smoothness of the hair.
  • the feel of the hair after treatment using the composition according to the invention i s particularly pleasant.
  • composition according to the invention are shampoo-resi stant.
  • Another subj ect of the invention consists of a cosmetic process for treating the hair using a composition according to the invention.
  • the composition according to the invention may be rinsed out or left in, optionally applied under the effect of heat, and optionally combined with chemical and/or mechanical hair treatments .
  • the composition compri ses one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes in a proportion ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysilane s other than those of formula (I), and mixtures thereof, in a proportion ranging from 0.001 %) to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • fatty-chain alkoxysilane(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are those corresponding to formula (I) b elow :
  • Said fatty-chain alkoxy silane can be present in the composition under the form of a compound of formul a (I) ab ove, and/or under the form of one or more oligomer(s) of such a compound.
  • Ri being an alkyl or alkenyl group and R 2 being an alkyl group, these group s compri se only carbon and hydrogen atoms .
  • R 2 represents an alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • b etter still a linear alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group
  • Ri represents an alkyl group and even more preferentially a linear alkyl group.
  • the fatty-chain alkoxysilane is chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane and hexadecyltriethoxysilane.
  • the fatty-chain alkoxysilane according to the invention is octyltriethoxysilane (OTES).
  • the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 18% by weight and better still from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysilanes other than those of formula (I), and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicones that may be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i.e. dissolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emulsions.
  • the polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
  • the silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp.27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .
  • silicones are non-volatile, use is preferably made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5xl0 "6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C and preferably lxlO "5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 cSt,
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from lxlO "5 to 5xl0 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • oils of the SF series from the company General Electric such as SF 1023 , SF 1 1 54, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • the silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of b etween 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethyl siloxane (PDMS) oil s, polyphenylmethyl siloxane (PPMS) oil s, i soparaffins, polyi sobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • Products that may be used more particularly are the following mixtures :
  • thi s product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecul ar weight of 500 000, di ssolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, - mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric.
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s.
  • This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R2S1O2/2, R3S1O1/2, RS1O3/2 and S1O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
  • organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
  • C6-C24 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the company Union Carbide, and the (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q25200,
  • - thiol groups such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from the company Genesee, - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt,
  • hydroxylated group s such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application FR 2 589 476,
  • alkylcarboxylic type such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thio sulfate such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S201 and Abil S255 ,
  • organomodified silicones mention may al so be made of amino silicones.
  • amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group .
  • amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
  • T i a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C i -C 8 alkyl group, and preferably methyl , or a C i -C 8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3 , and preferably 0,
  • b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ,
  • n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 1 50, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10,
  • R 1 is a monovalent group of formula -C q H 2q L in which q i s a number from 2 to 8 and L i s an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups :
  • R 2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C i -C 20 alkyl group, and Q " represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (II) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (III) b elow:
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3 ; a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy; or OH;
  • A represents a linear or branched, C 3 -C 8 and preferably C 3 -C 6 alkylene group;
  • m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyl group
  • A represents a C 3 alkylene group
  • m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000 approximately.
  • Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones”.
  • R, R' and R" which may be identical or different, each represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" is an alkoxy group and A represents a C 3 alkylene group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R and R" which are different, each represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" being an alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group and A representing a C 3 alkylene group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal to 1/0.95.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard; ⁇ styragem columns; eluent THF; flow rate 1 mm/minute; 200 ⁇ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).
  • a product corresponding to the definition of formula (II) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (IV) below:
  • a compound of formula (IV) is sold, for example, under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
  • R 3 represents a Ci-Ci 8 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a Ci-Ci 8 alkyl or C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl group, for example methyl,
  • R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci-Ci 8 alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Ci 8 , and for example Ci-C 8 , alkylenoxy group,
  • Q " is a halide ion, in particular chloride
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8,
  • s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • a compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
  • R-7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Ci 8 alkyl group, a C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
  • R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a
  • Ci-Ci 8 alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Ci 8 and for example Ci-C 8 , alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,
  • R 8 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Ci 8 alkyl group, a C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl group or a group -R.6-NHCOR7;
  • X " is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
  • R 5 denotes a C 1 -C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
  • one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q27224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (IV) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C 8 H 17 -C 6 H 4 -(OCH 2 CH 2 ) 40 -OH, known under the CTFA name "Octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of formula: Ci2H25-(OCH 2 -CH 2 )6-OH, known under the CTFA name "Isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol.
  • Dow Corning Q27224 by the company Dow Corning
  • Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention i s the product sold under the name Wacker-B el sil ADM LOG 1 , sold by the company Wacker, compri sing, in microemul sion form, an amodimethicone of formula (III) in combination with Trideceth- 5 and Trideceth- 10.
  • the silicones that are particularly preferred are polydimethyl siloxanes compri sing trimethyl silyl end groups or dimethicones, compri sing dimethyl silanol or dimethiconol end group s, quaternized or non-quaternized amino sili cones, such as amodimethicones or silicones containing amodimethicones quaternary ammonium group, and polyoxyethylenated silicones.
  • the silicones of the invention are chosen from polydimethyl siloxanes containing trimethyl silyl end groups and amino silicones, which are preferably non-quaternized.
  • silicones the product sold under the name Wacker-B el sil ADM LOG 1 by the company Wacker i s more parti cularly preferred.
  • the alkoxysilanes are preferably compounds of formula (G) 4- x Si(OR) x , with x denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 3 , G denoting identical or different monovalent groups and R denoting a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group compri sing one or more carbon atom s and optionally one or more heteroatoms.
  • the alkoxy sil ane(s), other than those of formula (I), contain two or three alkoxy functions.
  • the alkoxy function(s) are cho sen from methoxy and ethoxy functions.
  • the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), compri se one or more solubilizing functional groups.
  • solubilizing functional group means any chemical functional group that facilitates the di ssolution of the alkoxysilane in the medium of the composition, i.e. in the solvent or the solvent mixture of the composition, in particular in water or in aqueous-alcoholic mixtures.
  • solubilizing functional groups that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of primary, secondary and tertiary amine, aromatic amine, alcohol, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, anhydride, carbamate, urea, guanidine, aldehyde, ester, amide, epoxy, pyrrole, dihydroimidazole, gluconamide, pyridyl and polyether groups.
  • This or these alkoxysilane(s) containing one or more solubilizing functional groups may contain one or more silicon atoms.
  • the alkoxysilane(s) containing one or more solubilizing functional groups generally contain two or three alkoxy functions.
  • the alkoxy functions are methoxy or ethoxy functions.
  • alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from the compounds of formula (VIII) below:
  • R-6 represents a halogen or a group OR' or R' 6 ,
  • R 7 represents a halogen or a group OR" or R' 7 ,
  • R 8 represents a halogen or a group OR'" or R' 8 ,
  • R 3 , R 4 , Rs, R ⁇ R", R" ⁇ R'e, R' 7 and R' 8 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, optionally bearing additional chemical groups, R 3 , R 4 , R', R" and R'" also possibly denoting hydrogen, at least two of the groups R 6 , R 7 and R 8 being different from the groups R' 6 , R'7 and R' 8 , at least two of the groups R', R" and R'" being other than hydrogen.
  • the groups R 3 , R 4 , R ⁇ R'e, R'?, R's, R" and R'" are chosen from Ci-Cn alkyl, C 6 -Ci 4 aryl, (Ci-C8)alkyl(C 6 -Ci 4 )aryl and (C 6 -Ci 4 )aryl(Ci-Cs)alkyl groups.
  • the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), comprise a substituent comprising a primary amine function, and are chosen from the compounds of formula (IX) below:
  • Alkoxysilane that is particularly preferred according to this embodiment is ⁇ -aminopropyl triethoxysilane.
  • a product is sold, for example, under the name Z-6011 Silane by the company Dow Corning.
  • alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from the compounds of formula (X) below:
  • Rii represents a halogen or a group OR'n and R 12 represents a halogen or a group OR' 12 , at least one of the groups Rn and R 12 being other than a halogen,
  • R' II and R' 12 represent, independently of each other, hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-Cu , hydrocarbon- based group, at least one of the groups R' n and R' 12 being other than hydrogen,
  • R9 i s a non-hydrolysable functional group with a cosmetic effect
  • Rio is a non-hydrolysable functional group bearing a function chosen from the following functions : amine, carboxylic acid and salts thereof, sulfonic acid and salts thereof, polyalcohols such as glycol, polyether such as polyalkene ether, and phosphoric acid and salts thereof.
  • the term "functional group with a cosmetic effect” means a group chosen from groups derived from a reducing agent, from an oxidizing agent, from a colouring agent, from a polymer, from a surfactant, from an antibacterial agent or from a UV-screening agent.
  • Examples of groups derived from a colouring agent are, inter alia, nitroaromatic, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, b enzoquinone, azo, xanthene, triarylmethane, azine, indoaniline, indophenol or indoamine group s.
  • Examples of groups with a reducing effect are, inter alia, thiol or sulfinic acid groups or sulfinic acid salts .
  • alkoxy silane of formul a (X) that may be mentioned i s aminopropyl-N-(4,2-dinitrophenyl)-amino- propyldiethoxysilane.
  • Such compounds are described, for example, in patent application EP- 1 216 023 .
  • alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), may al so be chosen from the compounds of formula (XI) b elow :
  • Ri 4 represents a halogen or a group OR' 14 or R 0 ,
  • Ri 5 represents a halogen or a group OR' 15 or R' 0 ,
  • Ri 6 represents a halogen or a group OR' i 6 or R" 0 , at least two of the groups R14, R15 and R 16 being different from the groups Ro, R'o and R" 0 ,
  • Ri3 is a group chosen from groups bearing at least one function chosen from the following functions: carboxylic acid and salts thereof, sulfonic acid and salts thereof, polyalkyl ethers.
  • Ro, R'o, R"o, R'i4, R'i5 and R' 16 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C14 hydrocarbon-based group, optionally bearing additional chemical functions chosen from the following functions: carboxylic acid and salts thereof, sulfonic acid and salts thereof, polyalkyl ethers, R' 14 , R'i5 and R' 16 also possibly denoting hydrogen, at least two of the groups R'14, R'i5 and R' 16 being other than hydrogen.
  • the groups R'14, R'15 and R' 16 , Ro, R'o and R'O represent a C1-C12 alkyl, C 6 -Ci4 aryl, (Ci-C8)alkyl(C6-Ci4)aryl or (C 6 - Ci4)aryl(Ci-Cs)alkyl group.
  • the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from the compounds of formula (XII) below: (R 21 0) x (R 22 ) y Si(B)p[NR 2 3(B')p'] q [NR' 23 (B")p"] q 'Si(R' 22 ) y '(OR' 2 i) x '
  • R 2 i, R 22 , R'21 and R' 22 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
  • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 3
  • y 3-x
  • x' is an integer ranging from 1 to 3
  • y' 3-x'
  • p 0 or 1
  • p' 0 or 1
  • p" 0 or 1
  • q 0 or 1
  • q' 0 or 1
  • B, B' and B" each independently represent a linear or branched divalent Ci-C 2 o alkylene group
  • R-23 and R'23 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C3-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups,
  • R21, R22, R'21 and R'22 each independently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • hydrocarbon-based chain preferably means a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • R23 and R'23 may represent a hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms is preferably intended.
  • the aromatic ring comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, it denotes an optionally substituted phenyl radical.
  • alkoxysilane(s) of formula (XII) may also have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
  • R21, R22, R'21 and R'22 which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl
  • - B and B' which may be identical or different, represent a linear C 1 -C 4 alkylene.
  • alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from the compounds of formula (XIII) below:
  • R 2 4 and R25 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
  • n * 0 or 1
  • n" 0 or 1
  • E and E' each independently represent a linear or branched divalent C1-C20 alkylene group
  • R26 and R27 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups,
  • r is an integer ranging from 0 to 4,
  • the group(s) R28 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched preferably C1-C10 hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups.
  • R24 and R25 each independently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • hydrocarbon-based chain preferably means a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • R 26 and R27 may represent a hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms is preferably intended.
  • the aromatic ring comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, it denotes an optionally substituted phenyl group.
  • the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (XIII) may have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
  • R24 is a C1-C4 alkyl
  • R26 and R27 independently represent hydrogen or a group chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl groups.
  • alkoxysilane(s) of formula (XIII) may be chosen from:
  • alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), may also be chosen from the compounds of formula (XIV) below:
  • R-29 and R30 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
  • Ai represents a linear or branched C 1 -C20 divalent alkylene group, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more C 1 -C30 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups,
  • R29 and R30 each independently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • hydrocarbon-based chain preferably means a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • alkoxysilane(s) of formula (XIV) may also have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
  • R29 and R30 are chosen from C1-C4 alkyls
  • Ai is a linear C 1 -C4 alkylene
  • the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (XIV) may b e chosen from:
  • the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from the di- and/or trialkoxysilanes bearing one or more sub stituents comprising one or more amine functions.
  • the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from trialkoxysilanes bearing a sub stituent compri sing one or more amine functions, more particularly from the compounds of formula (IX) .
  • aminopropyltriethoxy silane is even more preferred.
  • the siliceous cosmetic agent(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.001 % to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight and better still from 0. 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the siliceous cosmetic agent(s) are present in the compositions according to the invention in such a way that the weight ratio between the amount of fatty-chain alkoxysilane(s), on the one hand, and the amount of siliceous cosmetic agent(s), on the other hand, i s preferably greater than or equal to 0. 1 .
  • the weight ratio b etween the amount of fatty-chain alkoxysilane(s), on the one hand, and the amount of siliceous cosmetic agent(s), on the other hand ranges from 0. 1 to 50, more preferably from 0.2 to 25 and better still from 5 to 20.
  • the silicone(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.001 % to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 % to 8%) by weight and better still from 0. 1 % to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the silicone(s) are present in the compositions according to the invention such that the weight ratio between the amount of fatty-chain alkoxysilane(s), on the one hand, and the amount of silicone(s), on the other hand, preferably ranges from 0. 1 to 50, more preferably from 1 to 25 and better still from 5 to 20.
  • the alkoxysilane(s) other than those of formula (I) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions of at least 0.01 % by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01 % to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 20% by weight and better still from 0. 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the alkoxysilane(s) other than those of formula (I) are present in the compositions according to the invention such that the weight ratio between the amount of fatty-chain alkoxy silane(s) of formula (I), on the other hand, and the amount of alkoxysilane of different chemical structure, on the other hand, ranges from 0.2 to 1 0 and more preferably from 0.5 to 5.
  • composition according to the invention may al so compri se one or more additives chosen from thickeners, organic acids, cationi c surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteri c and/or zwitterionic surfactants, non- siliceous fatty sub stances, solid particles, reducing agents and oxidizing agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention al so compri ses one or more thickeners .
  • the term "thickener” means an agent which, when introduced at 1 % by weight in an aqueous solution or an aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol, and at pH 7, makes it possible to achieve a vi scosity of at least 100 mPa. s ( 100 cPs) and preferably of at least 500 mPa. s (500 cPs), at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s " 1 Thi s vi scosity may be measured using a cone/plate vi scometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like) .
  • the thickener or thickeners may be selected from fatty acid amides obtained from C 10 - C30 carboxylic acid such as monoi sopropanolamide, diethanolamide or monoethanolamide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of ethoxylated carboxylic alkyl ether acid, nonionic cellulose-based thickeners (such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and, carboxymethylcellulo se), guar gum and its nonionic derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, gums of microbial origin such as xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and associative polymers, especially acrylic associative polymers or polyurethanes, as described below.
  • C 10 - C30 carboxylic acid such as monoi sopropanolamide, diethanolamide or monoethanolamide of coconut acids
  • the associative polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers which, in an aqueous medium, are capable of reversible association with one another or with other molecules.
  • the associative polymer(s) that may be used according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type, for instance the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TR1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich, the INCI name of which i s Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Salcare SC90 by the company Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28, 33 , 44 or 46 by the company Rohm & Haas, and Elfacos T210 and T212 by the company Akzo.
  • i s preferably made of nonioni c cellulo se-based thi ckeners and more preferentially hydroxyethylcellulose, and associative polymers such as acrylic acid/stearyl methacrylate copolymers, crosslinked acrylic aci d/ alkyl acrylates copolymers, and copolymers of dicyclohexylmethane dii socyanate (SMDI)/alkyl-terminated polyethylene glycol.
  • SMDI dicyclohexylmethane dii socyanate
  • the composition according to the invention compri ses from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10%) by weight of thickener(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention al so compri ses one or more organic acids .
  • organic acid means any non-polymeric organi c compound comprising two or more than two carbon atoms and one or more acid functions chosen from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid and phosphoric acid functions.
  • the organic acid i s not a surfactant.
  • the molecular weight of the organi c acid is less than 250 and better still less than 200.
  • the organic acids according to the invention are carboxylic acids and a-hydroxylated carboxylic acids or AHAs.
  • the organic acids may be amino acids.
  • the organic acid(s) are preferably chosen from acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, malic aci d, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine, tartaric aci d, arginine, glycine, glucuronic acid, gluconic aci d and citric acid. Even more preferentially still, the organic acid used in the composition according to the invention is chosen from acetic acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and is preferably lactic acid.
  • the organic acid(s) may be in free or salified form.
  • the organic acid(s) that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in a content, expressed as free acids, ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight and even more preferentially in a content ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the compositions of the present invention comprise, for example, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • the groups R 8 to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C 1 -C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkyl ami do(C 2 -C 6 )alkyl , (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkylacetate, C 1 -C30 hydroxyalkyl, X " is an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or also, on the other hand, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or also, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myr)
  • Ri 2 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow
  • Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Ri 4 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl sulfates and (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylaryl- sulfonates.
  • R 12 and Rn preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl group s comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, Ri 4 denotes a methyl group, and R1 5 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • a product is, for example, sold under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • R 16 denotes an alkyl group comprising for ab out 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;
  • R17 i s chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH 2 ) 3 - N + (Ri 6a )(Ri 7a )(Ri 8a );
  • R i 6a, Ri 7a, Ri 8a, Ri 8 , Ri 9, R 2 o and R 2 1 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • X " i s an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C i -C 4 )alkyl sulfates and (C i -C 4 )alkyl- or (C i -C 4 )alky
  • ester functional groups such as those of formula (XVIII) below:
  • R22 is chosen from Ci-C 6 alkyl and Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;
  • R23 is chosen from:
  • R25 is chosen from:
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
  • rl and tl which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
  • X " is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 2 3 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 27 , it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 2 g, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C 21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which are identical or different, have values of 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X " is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci- C 4 )alkylaryl-sulfonate.
  • a halide preferably chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci- C 4 )alkylaryl-sulfonate may be used.
  • the anion X " is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • R 2 4 , R26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups .
  • hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
  • examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxy ethyl dimethyl ammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylm ethyl ammonium,
  • the acyl group s preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil . When the compound contains several acyl group s, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight maj ority of diester salts.
  • Mixtures of ammonium salts that can b e used include, for example, the mixture containing 1 5% to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, 45% to 60% of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate and 1 5%) to 30%> of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl groups having from 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and originating from palm oil, which i s optionally partially hydrogenated.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 13 1 .
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particul arly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethyl- ammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particul arly behenyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the cationic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 %> to 20% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant compri sing, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups .
  • anionic surface-active agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyli sethionates and N-acyltaurates, polyglycoside polycarb oxyli
  • These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably compri se from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C 6 - C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C 6 - C24 alkyl polyglycoside- citrates, C 6 - C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 - C24 alkyl poly glycoside- sulfo succinates .
  • anionic surfactant(s) When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salt s such as the magnesium salts .
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, dii sopropanolamine or trii sopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- l -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl- l , 3 -propanediol salts and tri s(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • anionic surfactants mentioned use i s preferably made of (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl sulfates, (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl ether sulfates compri sing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • the amount of the anionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • nonionic surfactants examples include but are not limited to, in the "Handbook of Surfactants " by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp . 1 16- 178.
  • They are especially chosen from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated alcohol s, a-diols and (C i_ 2 o)alkylphenol s, containing at least one fatty chain compri sing, for example, from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms, the numb er of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.
  • fatty compound for example a fatty acid
  • fatty acid denotes a compound compri sing, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and even better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl group, compri sing from about 8 to 24 carb on atoms, or an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group compri ses from 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
  • R 2 represents an alkylene group compri sing from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • G represents a sugar unit compri sing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 4, and
  • v denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1 5.
  • Mono- or polyglycosides that are preferred in the present invention are (C 8 -C i 8 )alkyl mono- or polyglycosides and are compounds of formula (XIX) in which :
  • Ri more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms,
  • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and even more particularly i s equal to 0,
  • G may denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose.
  • the degree of polymerization i. e. the value of v in formula (XIX), may range from 1 to 1 5 and preferably from 1 to 4.
  • the average degree of polymerization i s more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferentially from 1 . 1 to 1 .5.
  • glycoside bonds between the sugar units are of 1 -6 or 1 -4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type.
  • Examples of compounds of formula (XIX) are especially caprylylglucoside, decylglucoside or caprylglucoside, laurylglucoside, cetearylglucoside and cocoglucoside, and mixtures thereof. These preferred compounds of formula (XIX) are especially represented by the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000).
  • nonionic surfactants optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides are preferably used.
  • the amount of the nonionic surfactant or surfactants varies preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably nonsilicone, which can be used in the present invention may especially be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • R a represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • Rb represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X' represents the group -CH 2 COOH, CH 2 COOZ',
  • Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', the group
  • Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine,
  • R a ' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra ' COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C 17 and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate disodium lauroamphodiacetate
  • disodium caprylamphodiacetate disodium capryloamphodiacetate
  • disodium cocoamphodipropionate disodium lauroamphodipropionate
  • disodium caprylamphodipropionate disodium capryloamphodipropionate
  • lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above use is preferably made of (C 8 -C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, and (C 8 -C2o)alkylamido(C3-C 8 )alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.
  • the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more non-siliceous fatty substances.
  • fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013> ⁇ 10 5 Pa), i.e. with a solubility of less than 5%), preferably of less than 1% and even more preferably of less than 0.1%.
  • the non-siliceous fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and not comprising any siloxane groups.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • non-siliceous fatty substance means a fatty substance whose structure does not comprise any silicon atoms.
  • the fatty substances that may be used in the composition according to the invention are generally not oxyalkylenated and preferably do not contain any carboxylic acid COOH functions.
  • the non-siliceous fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones and fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, they are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
  • They may be liquid or non-liquid, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 .
  • liquid hydrocarbon means a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa), which is especially of mineral or plant origin, preferably of plant origin.
  • liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from: - linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C 6 -Ci6 alkanes.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,
  • hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product sold under the brand name Parleam® by the company NOF Corporation, and squalane.
  • liquid hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and liquid petroleum jelly.
  • liquid fatty alcohol means a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 50 carbon atoms.
  • the liquid fatty alcohol s of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the saturated liquid fatty alcohol s are preferably branched. They may optionally compri se in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • liquid saturated fatty alcohol s of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, i sostearyl alcohol and 2- hexyldecanol.
  • Octyldodecanol is mo st particularly preferred.
  • the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conj ugated or unconj ugated.
  • These unsaturated fatty alcohol s may be linear or branched. They may optionally compri se in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleyl al cohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
  • Oleyl alcohol is mo st particularly preferred.
  • liquid fatty esters means an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol that i s liquid at standard temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i. e . 1 .01 3 x 10 5 Pa) .
  • the esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C i -C 26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C i -C 2 6 aliphatic monoalcohol s or polyalcohol s, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • esters of monoalcohol s Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohol s, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived i s branched.
  • ethyl palmitate i sopropyl palmitate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isodecyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate and isononyl isononanoate.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci- C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
  • composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon- based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters .
  • oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may b e used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, examples that may be mentioned include :
  • triglyceride oil s of plant or synthetic origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil , wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol ® 8 10, 8 12 and 8 1 8 by the company Dynamit Nobel, j oj ob
  • Liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will preferably be used as esters according to the invention.
  • liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.
  • the fatty substances of the invention may be liquid or non- liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013xl0 5 Pa).
  • non-liquid preferably means a solid compound or a compound that has a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 .
  • non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non- siliceous waxes and fatty ethers, which are non-liquid and preferably solid.
  • non-liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol).
  • non-liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols mention may be made especially of solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
  • esters mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.
  • esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • esters mentioned above it is preferred to use myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, and alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate.
  • the non-siliceous wax(es) are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and ceramides.
  • ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides
  • glycoceramides that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are known per se and are natural or synthetic molecules that may correspond to the general formula (XX) below:
  • - Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid,
  • R-2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl) n , (galactosyl) m or sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8,
  • R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C 1 -C14 alkyl groups,
  • R 3 can also denote a C15-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C 16 - C30 a- hydroxy acid.
  • ceramides which are preferred in the context of the present invention are those described by Downing in Arch. Dermatol . , Vol . 123 , 138 1 - 1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.
  • the ceramide(s) that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16-C 22 fatty acids; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R 3 denotes a saturated linear C 1 5 group .
  • Such compounds are, for example, N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine or N- behenoyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds .
  • Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids
  • R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group
  • waxes or waxy starting material s that may be used according to the invention are especially marine waxes such as those sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and waxes of polyethylene or of polyolefins in general .
  • the non-liqui d fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and especially dicetyl ether and di stearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
  • the non- siliceous fatty sub stances according to the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohol s, fatty esters and ceramides.
  • the non- siliceous fatty sub stances are chosen from liquid petroleum j elly, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and a mixture thereof such as cetyl stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, i sopropyl palmitate, i sopropyl myri state, N- oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine and N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine.
  • the non-siliceous fatty sub stance(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.05 % to 1 0%) by weight and better still from 0. 1 %> to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may al so compri se one or more soli d particles .
  • antidandruff agents such as zinc pyridinethione, selenium di sulfide and ellagic acid, fillers, and especially silica, titanium dioxi de, pigments, dyes, abrasive powders such as pumice and apricot kernel powder may be present in the composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to the present invention may al so contain one or more reducing agents, especially such as sulfureous reducing agents .
  • reducing agents especially such as sulfureous reducing agents .
  • These agents are preferably chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto groups (- SH), sulfites and sulfite derivatives .
  • sulfite derivatives that are essentially denoted are bi sulfites and sulfite diesters of formula RO S O 2 R' , with R and R' denoting C 1 - C 1 0 alkyl groups.
  • the organi c compounds compri sing a mercapto group are preferably chosen from the following compounds : thioglycolic aci d, thiolactic acid, cysteine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3 -mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thi oxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, and thioglycolic or thiolactic acid esters, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • the sulfureous reducing agent(s) may be used especially in the form of salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium and calcium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and amino alcohol salts.
  • alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts
  • alkaline-earth metal salts for example magnesium and calcium salts
  • ammonium salts amine salts and amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfureous reducing agent(s) are chosen from thioglycolic acid and salts thereof, thiolactic acid and salts thereof, alkali metal sulfites and especially sodium sulfite, alkali metal bisulfites and especially sodium bisulfite, and precursors of these sulfites or bisulfites such as sodium metabisulfite.
  • the sulfureous reducing agent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and especially from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one oxidizing agent.
  • Such an oxidizing agent is preferably chosen from the group formed by hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic polymers.
  • composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous.
  • anhydrous refers to a composition not containing any added water, i.e. a composition in which the water that may be present comes only from the water of crystallization or of adsorption of the starting materials. In any case, an anhydrous composition contains less than 5% by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may contain one or more organic solvents that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • the liquid organic solvent(s) are chosen from C 1 -C 4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, polyol ethers, C5-C10 alkanes, C3-C4 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, C 1 -C 4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane, silicone oils and the non-siliceous liquid fatty substances described above, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention is aqueous, its
  • examples that may be mentioned include the organic acids already mentioned previously, or mineral acids .
  • mineral acid means any acid derived from a mineral compound.
  • mineral acids mention may be made of hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acids and nitric acid.
  • Use may be made especially of mineral or organi c acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic aci d, and sulfonic acids.
  • mineral or organi c acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic aci d, and sulfonic acids.
  • basifying agents examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanol amines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of the following formula: in which W i s a propylene residue optionally sub stituted with a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C4 alkyl group ; R a , R b , Rc and R d , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group .
  • the pH modifiers may be chosen from alkaline agents, such as aqueous ammoni a, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1 , 3 -propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl- l -propanol, or el se acidifying agents, such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • alkaline agents such as aqueous ammoni a, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1 , 3 -propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl- l -propanol, or el se acidifying agents, such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • compositions according to the invention may al so compri se one or more additives chosen from fixing polymers, pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, water-soluble or liposoluble, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, conditioning agents other than the silicones and cationic polymers mentioned above, solubilizers, antioxidants, antidandruff agents other than those mentioned above, anti- seborrhoei c agents, hair-lo ss counteractants and/or hair restorers, penetrants, fragrances, peptizers and preserving agents, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.
  • additives chosen from fixing polymers, pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, water-soluble or liposoluble, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, conditioning agents other than the silicones and cationic polymers
  • additives can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention al so relates to a cosmetic hair treatment process, which consi sts in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above.
  • Thi s application may or may not be followed by rinsing.
  • the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin material s ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better still from 10 seconds to 10 minutes.
  • the heating device may be a hairdryer, a hood dryer, a curling iron or a flat iron.
  • the heating temperature may be between 40°C and 220°C .
  • composition according to the invention may take place on dry hair or on wet hair. It may in particular b e carried out after a shampooing operation or after a pretreatment at acidic or basic pH.
  • the examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
  • compositions according to the invention were prepared from the compounds indicated in Table 1 below.
  • alkoxysilane of formula (I) i s chosen from the following compounds : octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxy silane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane.
  • silicone i s chosen from the following families : amodimethicones such as the product sold under the name Wacker-Bel sil ADM LOG 1 by the company Wacker, polydimethyl siloxanes containing trimethyl silyl end groups, such as the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, silicones containing a quaternary ammonium group, such as the products sold under the name Abil Quat 3272 or 3474 by the company Evonik-Goldschmidt.
  • amodimethicones such as the product sold under the name Wacker-Bel sil ADM LOG 1 by the company Wacker
  • polydimethyl siloxanes containing trimethyl silyl end groups such as the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar
  • silicones containing a quaternary ammonium group such as the products sold under the name Abil Quat 3272 or 3474 by the company Evonik-Goldschmidt.
  • Example 2 A composition according to the invention (composition A) i s compared with a comparative composition (composition B) not compri sing silicone.
  • composition A according to the invention and composition B outside the invention were prepared according to the formulations given in Table 2 above.
  • Wacker-Bel sil ADM LOG 1 sold under the name Wacker-Bel sil ADM LOG 1 by the company Wacker ( 1 5 % active material).
  • composition A When applied to wet hair, composition A affords greater ease of di sentangling on wet and dry hair than composition B .
  • the fibre is more uniform, softer and lighter with composition A than with composition B , and the head of hair is not made lank.
  • composition A according to the invention last for at least 10 shampoo washes .
  • compositions according to the invention were prepared from the compounds indicated in Table 3 below.
  • alkoxysilane of formula (I) i s chosen from the following compounds : octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxy silane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane.
  • APTES aminopropyltriethoxysilane
  • triethoxysilylbutyr aldehyde triethoxysilylbutyr aldehyde
  • bi s [trimethoxy silyl propyl] amine aminopropyltriethoxysilane
  • the thickener i chosen from the following families : cellulose derivatives, guar gums, xanthan gum, associative polymers, crosslinked acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymer, SMDI/alkyl- terminated polyethylene glycol copolymer.
  • the surfactant is chosen from an alkylpolyglucoside and an alkylbetaine.
  • Example 4 the surfactant is chosen from an alkylpolyglucoside and an alkylbetaine.
  • composition C composition C i s compared with a comparative composition (composition D) not compri sing any alkoxysilane other than that of formula (I) .
  • composition C according to the invention and composition D outside the invention were prepared according to the formulations given in Table 4 above.
  • Table 4
  • compositions were tested on locks of bl eached hair. 1 g of each of these compositions was applied per 2.7 g lock. The application was performed at room temperature to wet hair after shampooing.
  • composition C shows very good working qualities, especi ally such as ease of application and of rinsing, and al so a very good feel quality after rinsing.
  • Sensory analysi s shows very good working qualities, especi ally such as ease of application and of rinsing, and al so a very good feel quality after rinsing.
  • compositions C and D giving a grade ranging from 0 (poor) to 5 (very good) for each of the cosmeti c properties of the wet hair, li sted in the table below.
  • the averages of the grades obtained are as follows : C D
  • composition C of the invention affords more ease of di sentangling, softness and individualization on wet hair.
  • compositions C and D are as follows :
  • composition D After 10 shampoo washes, the suppleness and smoothness and al so the individualization and di sentangling properties are not conserved for composition D, whereas they are for composition C according to the invention.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes of formula (I) below: R1Si(OR2)3 in which R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and - one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysilanes other than those of formula (I), and mixtures thereof, in a proportion ranging from 0.001% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using the said composition, and to the use of the said composition for haircare. This composition may be used in particular as a treating shampoo.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a fatty-chain alkoxysilane and a siliceous cosmetic agent.
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition compri sing one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes and one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysil anes of different chemical structures from the first ones, and mixtures thereof.
The present invention al so relates to the use of the sai d composition for caring for keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and in particular the hair, and al so to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres using such a composition.
In the field of cosmetic haircare, it i s common practice to care for keratin fibres subj ected to various external attacking factors. Specifically, these fibres may be subj ect to attacks of various origins, such as mechanical attack, for example linked to di sentangling or blow-drying, or alternatively chemical attack, for example following dyeing or permanent-waving.
These attacks have consequences on the qualities of the keratin fibre and may lead to difficult di sentangling at the time of washing the hair, on wet or dry hair, and al so to degradation of the surface properties of the fibres, which become rough and irregular at the surface, more particularly when the hair i s dry.
Care products exi st that can limit these phenomena. However, these solutions, which are not always sufficiently effective, are not sufficiently shampoo-resistant.
The prior-art compositions that can facilitate di sentangling by softening the keratin fibre and that afford gloss, softness and uniformity to dry hair essentially compri se cationic surfactants, fatty sub stances, silicones and cationic polymers.
After having been applied, these compositions are rinsed out, and the cosmetic conditioning agents, which are only lightly deposited on the keratin fibres, are generally removed at the time of the next wash. Thus, the application of these compositi ons must be repeated after each wash, in order to treat the hair and to facilitate its conditioning.
There i s thus a need for compositions that can form a material or that can deposit care active agents uniformly onto and/or into the keratin fibres, in a manner that i s resi stant to shampooing several times.
International patent application WO 2004/012 691 di scloses the cosmetic use of silanes for improving the condition of the hair.
Patent application EP 0 1 59 628 proposes compositions for reinforcing the elasticity of the hair, compri sing an alkyltrialkoxysilane.
Moreover, patent application EP 1 736 139 describes a hair treatment composition compri sing an alkoxysilane, an organic aci d and water, the pH of the composition being between 2 and 5.
Finally, patent application EP 0 877 027 di scloses a composition comprising an organosilane and a particular polyol.
The Applicant has now di scovered, surpri singly, that a combination of a particular fatty-chain alkoxysilane with at least one siliceous cosmetic agent chosen from silicones, alkoxysilanes of different chemical structures from the first ones, and mixtures thereof, in proportions defined b elow, can afford efficient and l ong-lasting treatment of the hair, and thus facilitate its conditioning.
In particular, such a composition can, firstly, give the head of hair good cosmetic properties, and, secondly, give cosmetic effects that are resi stant to shampooing several times.
One subj ect of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising:
- one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes of formula (I) below:
R! Si(OR2)3 (I) in which Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group compri sing from 7 to 1 8 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 6 carb on atoms, in a proportion ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
- one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysilanes other than those of formula (I), and mixtures thereof, in a proportion ranging from 0.00 1 %) to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The present invention further concerns a cosmetic composition, obtainable by mixing the following ingredients :
- one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes of formula (I) below:
R! Si(OR2)3 (I) in which Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, compri sing from 7 to 1 8 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in a proportion ranging from 0. 1 %> to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
- one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysilanes other than those of formula (I), and mixtures thereof, in a proportion ranging from 0.00 1 %) to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thi s particular combination proves to b e particularly suitable for caring for the hair and al so makes it possible to obtain very good working qualities such as particularly easy application and good rinseability.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention gives the head of hair excellent cosmetic properties, and in particular promotes the di sentangling, suppleness, softness, lightness and smoothness of the hair.
In addition, the feel of the hair after treatment using the composition according to the invention i s particularly pleasant.
Finally, the conditioning properties obtained using the composition according to the invention are shampoo-resi stant.
Another subj ect of the invention consists of a cosmetic process for treating the hair using a composition according to the invention. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be rinsed out or left in, optionally applied under the effect of heat, and optionally combined with chemical and/or mechanical hair treatments .
A subj ect of the invention i s al so the use of the composition according to the invention for caring for keratin material s, such as human keratin fibres and in particular the hair.
Other subj ects, characteri stics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even more clearly apparent on reading the description and examples that follow.
According to the invention, the composition compri ses one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes in a proportion ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysilane s other than those of formula (I), and mixtures thereof, in a proportion ranging from 0.001 %) to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The fatty-chain alkoxysilane(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are those corresponding to formula (I) b elow :
R! Si(OR2)3 (I) in which R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group compri sing from 7 to 1 8 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially the ethyl group .
Said fatty-chain alkoxy silane can be present in the composition under the form of a compound of formul a (I) ab ove, and/or under the form of one or more oligomer(s) of such a compound.
Ri being an alkyl or alkenyl group and R2 being an alkyl group, these group s compri se only carbon and hydrogen atoms .
Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, b etter still a linear alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group . Preferably, Ri represents an alkyl group and even more preferentially a linear alkyl group.
Preferably, the fatty-chain alkoxysilane is chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane and hexadecyltriethoxysilane.
More particularly, the fatty-chain alkoxysilane according to the invention is octyltriethoxysilane (OTES).
The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 18% by weight and better still from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysilanes other than those of formula (I), and mixtures thereof.
The silicones that may be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i.e. dissolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emulsions. The polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
The silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably
4 to 5 silicon atoms.
These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold especially under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by the company Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by the company Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7158 by the company Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 by the company Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure:
Figure imgf000007_0001
with D" : — Si-O— with D' : -Si-O
CH, CeHi7
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethyl-cyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)- pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclo- tetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethyl- silyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10"6 m2/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp.27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .
When the silicones are non-volatile, use is preferably made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5xl0"6 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C and preferably lxlO"5 to 1 m2/s. The viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil oils sold by the company Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000,
- the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia,
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 cSt,
- the Viscasil oils from the company General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing aminoethyl, aminopropyl and α,ω-silanol groups.
In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C2o)alkylsiloxanes.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from lxlO"5 to 5xl0"2m2/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- Silbione oils of the 70641 series from the company Rhodia,
- the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from the company Rhodia,
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from the company Dow Corning,
- silicones of the PK series from the company Bayer, such as the product PK20, - the silicones of the PN and PH series from the company Bayer, such as the products PN 1000 and PH 1000,
- certain oils of the SF series from the company General Electric, such as SF 1023 , SF 1 1 54, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of b etween 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethyl siloxane (PDMS) oil s, polyphenylmethyl siloxane (PPMS) oil s, i soparaffins, polyi sobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made more particularly of the following products :
- polydimethyl siloxane gums,
- polydimethyl siloxane/methylvinyl siloxane gums,
- polydimethyl siloxane/diphenyl siloxane gums,
- polydimethyl siloxane/phenylmethyl siloxane gums,
polydimethyl siloxane/diphenyl siloxane/methylvinyl siloxane gums.
Products that may be used more particularly are the following mixtures :
- mixtures formed from a polydimethyl siloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain (known as dimethi conol according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic polydimethyl siloxane (known as cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary), such as the product Q2 140 1 sold by the company Dow Corning,
- mixtures formed from a polydimethyl siloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 12 14 Sili cone Fluid from the company General Electric, thi s product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecul ar weight of 500 000, di ssolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, - mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m2/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5 x 10"6 m2/s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
The organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R2S1O2/2, R3S1O1/2, RS1O3/2 and S1O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxy silicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
The organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the company Union Carbide, and the (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q25200,
- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from the company Genesee, - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt,
- hydroxylated group s, such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application FR 2 589 476,
- acyloxyalkyl groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732,
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, for instance in the products described in patent EP 1 86 507 from the company Chi sso
Corporation, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thio sulfate such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S201 and Abil S255 ,
- hydroxyacylamino groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes describ ed in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.
Among the organomodified silicones, mention may al so be made of amino silicones.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "amino silicone" means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group .
The amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
(a) the compounds corresponding to formula (II) b elow :
(R1)a(T)3 -a- Si[O Si(T)2]n- [O Si(T)b(R1)2 -b] m-O Si(T)3 -a-(R1 )a
(II)
in which :
T i s a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C i -C8 alkyl group, and preferably methyl , or a C i -C8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3 , and preferably 0,
b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ,
m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 1 50, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10,
R1 is a monovalent group of formula -CqH2qL in which q i s a number from 2 to 8 and L i s an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups :
-N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N(R2)2 ;
-N(R2)2,
-N+(R2)3 Q-,
-N+(R2) (H)2 Q-,
-N+(R2)2HQ\
-N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N+(R2)(H)2 Q\
in which R2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C i -C20 alkyl group, and Q" represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (II) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (III) b elow:
Figure imgf000013_0001
NH
(III) in which R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH3; a C1-C4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C3-C8 and preferably C3-C6 alkylene group; m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
According to a first possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000 approximately. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones".
According to a second possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" is an alkoxy group and A represents a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by the company Wacker. According to a third possibility, R and R", which are different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" being an alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group and A representing a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal to 1/0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid
WR® 1300 sold by the company Wacker.
Note that the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard; μ styragem columns; eluent THF; flow rate 1 mm/minute; 200 μΐ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).
A product corresponding to the definition of formula (II) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (IV) below:
(CH3)3 SO
Figure imgf000014_0001
NH0
(IV) in which n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (II).
Such compounds are described, for example, in patent EP 95238. A compound of formula (IV) is sold, for example, under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
(b) the compounds corresponding to formula (V) below:
Figure imgf000015_0001
in which:
R3 represents a Ci-Ci8 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a Ci-Ci8 alkyl or C2-Ci8 alkenyl group, for example methyl,
R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci-Ci8 alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Ci8, and for example Ci-C8, alkylenoxy group,
Q" is a halide ion, in particular chloride;
r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8,
s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
Such compounds are described more particularly in patent US 4 185 087.
A compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
(c) quaternary ammonium silicones especially of formula (VI): R8- Rc
Figure imgf000016_0001
in which:
R-7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Ci8 alkyl group, a C2-Ci8 alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a
Ci-Ci8 alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Ci8, and for example Ci-C8, alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,
R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Ci8 alkyl group, a C2-Ci8 alkenyl group or a group -R.6-NHCOR7;
X" is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530974.
(d) the amino silicones of formula (VII):
Figure imgf000017_0001
(CmH2m)
(VII) in which:
- Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
- R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
When these compounds are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
By way of example, use may be made of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC939 by the company Dow Corning, a cationic surfactant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride and a nonionic surfactant of formula C13H27-(OC2H4)12-OH, known under the
CTFA name "Trideceth-12".
Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q27224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (IV) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C8H17-C6H4-(OCH2CH2)40-OH, known under the CTFA name "Octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of formula: Ci2H25-(OCH2-CH2)6-OH, known under the CTFA name "Isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol. Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention i s the product sold under the name Wacker-B el sil ADM LOG 1 , sold by the company Wacker, compri sing, in microemul sion form, an amodimethicone of formula (III) in combination with Trideceth- 5 and Trideceth- 10.
The silicones that are particularly preferred are polydimethyl siloxanes compri sing trimethyl silyl end groups or dimethicones, compri sing dimethyl silanol or dimethiconol end group s, quaternized or non-quaternized amino sili cones, such as amodimethicones or silicones containing amodimethicones quaternary ammonium group, and polyoxyethylenated silicones.
Even more preferentially, the silicones of the invention are chosen from polydimethyl siloxanes containing trimethyl silyl end groups and amino silicones, which are preferably non-quaternized.
Among these particularly preferred silicones, the product sold under the name Wacker-B el sil ADM LOG 1 by the company Wacker i s more parti cularly preferred.
The alkoxysilanes, other than those of formula (I), are preferably compounds of formula (G) 4-xSi(OR)x, with x denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 3 , G denoting identical or different monovalent groups and R denoting a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group compri sing one or more carbon atom s and optionally one or more heteroatoms.
Preferably, the alkoxy sil ane(s), other than those of formula (I), contain two or three alkoxy functions.
Preferably, the alkoxy function(s) are cho sen from methoxy and ethoxy functions.
According to one particular emb odiment, the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), compri se one or more solubilizing functional groups.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term " solubilizing functional group " means any chemical functional group that facilitates the di ssolution of the alkoxysilane in the medium of the composition, i.e. in the solvent or the solvent mixture of the composition, in particular in water or in aqueous-alcoholic mixtures.
As solubilizing functional groups that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of primary, secondary and tertiary amine, aromatic amine, alcohol, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, anhydride, carbamate, urea, guanidine, aldehyde, ester, amide, epoxy, pyrrole, dihydroimidazole, gluconamide, pyridyl and polyether groups.
This or these alkoxysilane(s) containing one or more solubilizing functional groups may contain one or more silicon atoms.
The alkoxysilane(s) containing one or more solubilizing functional groups generally contain two or three alkoxy functions. Preferably, the alkoxy functions are methoxy or ethoxy functions.
According to one particular embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from the compounds of formula (VIII) below:
Figure imgf000019_0001
in which:
R-6 represents a halogen or a group OR' or R'6,
R7 represents a halogen or a group OR" or R'7,
R8 represents a halogen or a group OR'" or R'8,
R3, R4, Rs, R\ R", R"\ R'e, R'7 and R'8 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, optionally bearing additional chemical groups, R3, R4, R', R" and R'" also possibly denoting hydrogen, at least two of the groups R6, R7 and R8 being different from the groups R'6, R'7 and R'8, at least two of the groups R', R" and R'" being other than hydrogen. Preferably, the groups R3, R4, R\ R'e, R'?, R's, R" and R'" are chosen from Ci-Cn alkyl, C6-Ci4 aryl, (Ci-C8)alkyl(C6-Ci4)aryl and (C6-Ci4)aryl(Ci-Cs)alkyl groups.
According to one preferred implementation variant of this embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), comprise a substituent comprising a primary amine function, and are chosen from the compounds of formula (IX) below:
OR
/
H2N(CH2)n Si— OR
OR (IX) in which the groups R, which may be identical or different, are chosen from Ci-C6 alkyl groups, and n is an integer from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4.
Alkoxysilane that is particularly preferred according to this embodiment is γ-aminopropyl triethoxysilane. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Z-6011 Silane by the company Dow Corning.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from the compounds of formula (X) below:
Figure imgf000020_0001
in which:
Rii represents a halogen or a group OR'n and R12 represents a halogen or a group OR'12, at least one of the groups Rn and R12 being other than a halogen,
R'II and R'12 represent, independently of each other, hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-Cu, hydrocarbon- based group, at least one of the groups R' n and R' 12 being other than hydrogen,
R9 i s a non-hydrolysable functional group with a cosmetic effect, and
Rio is a non-hydrolysable functional group bearing a function chosen from the following functions : amine, carboxylic acid and salts thereof, sulfonic acid and salts thereof, polyalcohols such as glycol, polyether such as polyalkene ether, and phosphoric acid and salts thereof.
The term "functional group with a cosmetic effect" , means a group chosen from groups derived from a reducing agent, from an oxidizing agent, from a colouring agent, from a polymer, from a surfactant, from an antibacterial agent or from a UV-screening agent.
Examples of groups derived from a colouring agent are, inter alia, nitroaromatic, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, b enzoquinone, azo, xanthene, triarylmethane, azine, indoaniline, indophenol or indoamine group s. Examples of groups with a reducing effect are, inter alia, thiol or sulfinic acid groups or sulfinic acid salts .
An example of an alkoxy silane of formul a (X) that may be mentioned i s aminopropyl-N-(4,2-dinitrophenyl)-amino- propyldiethoxysilane. Such compounds are described, for example, in patent application EP- 1 216 023 .
The alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), may al so be chosen from the compounds of formula (XI) b elow :
Figure imgf000021_0001
in which :
Ri 4 represents a halogen or a group OR' 14 or R0,
Ri 5 represents a halogen or a group OR' 15 or R'0,
Ri 6 represents a halogen or a group OR' i6 or R"0, at least two of the groups R14, R15 and R16 being different from the groups Ro, R'o and R"0,
Ri3 is a group chosen from groups bearing at least one function chosen from the following functions: carboxylic acid and salts thereof, sulfonic acid and salts thereof, polyalkyl ethers.
Ro, R'o, R"o, R'i4, R'i5 and R'16 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C14 hydrocarbon-based group, optionally bearing additional chemical functions chosen from the following functions: carboxylic acid and salts thereof, sulfonic acid and salts thereof, polyalkyl ethers, R'14, R'i5 and R'16 also possibly denoting hydrogen, at least two of the groups R'14, R'i5 and R'16 being other than hydrogen.
Preferably, the groups R'14, R'15 and R'16, Ro, R'o and R'O represent a C1-C12 alkyl, C6-Ci4 aryl, (Ci-C8)alkyl(C6-Ci4)aryl or (C6- Ci4)aryl(Ci-Cs)alkyl group.
According to another embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from the compounds of formula (XII) below: (R210)x(R22)ySi(B)p[NR23(B')p']q[NR'23(B")p"]q'Si(R'22)y'(OR'2i)x'
(XII) in which:
R2i, R22, R'21 and R'22 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 3, y = 3-x, x' is an integer ranging from 1 to 3, y' = 3-x', p = 0 or 1, p' = 0 or 1, p" = 0 or 1, q = 0 or 1, q' = 0 or 1, it being understood that at least q or q' is other than zero,
B, B' and B" each independently represent a linear or branched divalent Ci-C2o alkylene group, R-23 and R'23 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C3-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups,
As explained previously, R21, R22, R'21 and R'22 each independently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain. The term "hydrocarbon-based chain" preferably means a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
Similarly, R23 and R'23 may represent a hydrocarbon-based chain. In this case, a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms is preferably intended.
Preferably, the aromatic ring comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, it denotes an optionally substituted phenyl radical.
Preferably, R2i = R'21, R22 = R'22, x = x\ y = y\ p = p\ A = A', q = 1 and q' = 0.
The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (XII) may also have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
- R21, R22, R'21 and R'22, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl,
- p = p' = l,
- B and B', which may be identical or different, represent a linear C1-C4 alkylene.
- R23 is hydrogen.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from the compounds of formula (XIII) below:
Figure imgf000024_0001
in which:
R24 and R25 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
x" = 2 or 3,
y" = 3-x",
n* = 0 or 1,
n" = 0 or 1,
E and E' each independently represent a linear or branched divalent C1-C20 alkylene group,
R26 and R27 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups,
r is an integer ranging from 0 to 4,
r' = 0 or 1,
the group(s) R28 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched preferably C1-C10 hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups.
As explained previously, R24 and R25 each independently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain. The term "hydrocarbon-based chain" preferably means a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
Similarly, R26 and R27 may represent a hydrocarbon-based chain. In this case, a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms is preferably intended.
Preferably, the aromatic ring comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, it denotes an optionally substituted phenyl group.
The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (XIII) may have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
- R24 is a C1-C4 alkyl,
- x" = 3, n'= n" = 1, r = r' = 0,
R26 and R27 independently represent hydrogen or a group chosen from C1-C4 alkyl, C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl and C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups.
In particular, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (XIII) may be chosen from:
- 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, of formula:
Figure imgf000025_0001
- p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, of formula:
Figure imgf000025_0002
and - N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane, of formula:
Figure imgf000026_0001
The alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), may also be chosen from the compounds of formula (XIV) below:
(R290)xi(R3o)yiSi(A1)sCH=0 (XIV) in which:
R-29 and R30 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
xl = 2 or 3, yl = 3-xl,
Ai represents a linear or branched C1-C20 divalent alkylene group, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more C1-C30 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups,
s = 0 or 1,
As explained previously, R29 and R30 each independently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain. The term "hydrocarbon-based chain" preferably means a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (XIV) may also have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
R29 and R30 are chosen from C1-C4 alkyls,
s=l,
Ai is a linear C1-C4 alkylene, In particular, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (XIV) may b e chosen from:
- triethoxysilylbutyraldehyde, of formula : (CH3 CH20)3 S i(CH2)3 CH=0
- triethoxysilylundecanal, of formula:
(CH3 CH20)3 Si(CH2) ioCH=0 and
- triethoxysilylundecanal ethylene glycol acetal, of formula:
(CH3 CH2O)3 Si(CH2) 10CH(OCH2)2. The preferred compound of formula (XIV) i s triethoxysilylbutyraldehyde . Such a product i s sold, for example, under the name SIT 8 1 85.3 by the company Gelest.
According to one particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from the di- and/or trialkoxysilanes bearing one or more sub stituents comprising one or more amine functions.
According to an even more preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from trialkoxysilanes bearing a sub stituent compri sing one or more amine functions, more particularly from the compounds of formula (IX) .
Among these particularly preferred alkoxysil anes, aminopropyltriethoxy silane (APTES) is even more preferred.
The siliceous cosmetic agent(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.001 % to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight and better still from 0. 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The siliceous cosmetic agent(s) are present in the compositions according to the invention in such a way that the weight ratio between the amount of fatty-chain alkoxysilane(s), on the one hand, and the amount of siliceous cosmetic agent(s), on the other hand, i s preferably greater than or equal to 0. 1 .
In one preferred embodiment, the weight ratio b etween the amount of fatty-chain alkoxysilane(s), on the one hand, and the amount of siliceous cosmetic agent(s), on the other hand, ranges from 0. 1 to 50, more preferably from 0.2 to 25 and better still from 5 to 20.
In one embodiment, the silicone(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.001 % to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 % to 8%) by weight and better still from 0. 1 % to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More particularly, the silicone(s) are present in the compositions according to the invention such that the weight ratio between the amount of fatty-chain alkoxysilane(s), on the one hand, and the amount of silicone(s), on the other hand, preferably ranges from 0. 1 to 50, more preferably from 1 to 25 and better still from 5 to 20.
In another embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s) other than those of formula (I) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions of at least 0.01 % by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01 % to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 20% by weight and better still from 0. 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) other than those of formula (I) are present in the compositions according to the invention such that the weight ratio between the amount of fatty-chain alkoxy silane(s) of formula (I), on the other hand, and the amount of alkoxysilane of different chemical structure, on the other hand, ranges from 0.2 to 1 0 and more preferably from 0.5 to 5.
The composition according to the invention may al so compri se one or more additives chosen from thickeners, organic acids, cationi c surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteri c and/or zwitterionic surfactants, non- siliceous fatty sub stances, solid particles, reducing agents and oxidizing agents, and mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred emb odiment, the composition according to the invention al so compri ses one or more thickeners .
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickener" means an agent which, when introduced at 1 % by weight in an aqueous solution or an aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol, and at pH 7, makes it possible to achieve a vi scosity of at least 100 mPa. s ( 100 cPs) and preferably of at least 500 mPa. s (500 cPs), at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s" 1 Thi s vi scosity may be measured using a cone/plate vi scometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like) .
The thickener or thickeners may be selected from fatty acid amides obtained from C 10 - C30 carboxylic acid such as monoi sopropanolamide, diethanolamide or monoethanolamide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of ethoxylated carboxylic alkyl ether acid, nonionic cellulose-based thickeners (such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and, carboxymethylcellulo se), guar gum and its nonionic derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, gums of microbial origin such as xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and associative polymers, especially acrylic associative polymers or polyurethanes, as described below.
The associative polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers which, in an aqueous medium, are capable of reversible association with one another or with other molecules.
Their chemical structure compri ses hydrophilic zones and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably compri sing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms .
The associative polymer(s) that may be used according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type, for instance the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TR1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich, the INCI name of which i s Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Salcare SC90 by the company Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28, 33 , 44 or 46 by the company Rohm & Haas, and Elfacos T210 and T212 by the company Akzo.
Among the cited thickeners, use i s preferably made of nonioni c cellulo se-based thi ckeners and more preferentially hydroxyethylcellulose, and associative polymers such as acrylic acid/stearyl methacrylate copolymers, crosslinked acrylic aci d/ alkyl acrylates copolymers, and copolymers of dicyclohexylmethane dii socyanate (SMDI)/alkyl-terminated polyethylene glycol.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention compri ses from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10%) by weight of thickener(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
In one particularly advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention al so compri ses one or more organic acids .
The term "organic acid" means any non-polymeric organi c compound comprising two or more than two carbon atoms and one or more acid functions chosen from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid and phosphoric acid functions.
Preferentially, the organic acid i s not a surfactant.
Even more preferentially, the molecular weight of the organi c acid is less than 250 and better still less than 200.
Even more preferentially, the organic acids according to the invention are carboxylic acids and a-hydroxylated carboxylic acids or AHAs.
The organic acids may be amino acids.
The organic acid(s) are preferably chosen from acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, malic aci d, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine, tartaric aci d, arginine, glycine, glucuronic acid, gluconic aci d and citric acid. Even more preferentially still, the organic acid used in the composition according to the invention is chosen from acetic acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and is preferably lactic acid.
In the composition, the organic acid(s) may be in free or salified form.
The organic acid(s) that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in a content, expressed as free acids, ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight and even more preferentially in a content ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the compositions of the present invention comprise, for example, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include:
- those corresponding to the general formula (XV) below:
Figure imgf000031_0001
(XV) in which the groups R8 to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkyl ami do(C2-C6)alkyl , (Ci2-C22)alkylacetate, C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl, X" is an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Preference is given, among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XV), on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or also, on the other hand, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or also, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk.
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (XVI) below:
Figure imgf000032_0001
in which Ri2 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates and (C1-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl- sulfonates. R12 and Rn preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl group s comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, Ri4 denotes a methyl group, and R1 5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, sold under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
- quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (XVII) b elow :
Figure imgf000033_0001
(XVII) in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising for ab out 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms; R17 i s chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3 - N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri 8a); R i 6a, Ri 7a, Ri 8a, Ri 8, Ri 9, R2o and R2 1 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X" i s an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C i -C4)alkyl sulfates and (C i -C4)alkyl- or (C i -C4)alkylaryl- sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. Such compounds are, for exampl e, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
- quaternary ammonium salts compri sing one or more ester functional groups, such as those of formula (XVIII) below:
Figure imgf000033_0002
(XVIII) in which:
R22 is chosen from Ci-C6 alkyl and Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;
R23 is chosen from:
O
- the group R26— C—
- the groups R27, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
- a hydrogen atom,
R25 is chosen from:
o
- the group R2 C
- the groups R29, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
- a hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or
1,
r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t,
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
X" is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion,
with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, then R25 denotes R29-
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R2g, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, have values of 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X" is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function, may be used.
The anion X" is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
Use is made more particularly in the composition according to the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (XVIII) in which:
- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
- x and y are equal to 1,
- z is equal to 0 or 1,
- r, s and t are equal to 2,
- R23 is chosen from:
O
• the group R— c—
• methyl, ethyl or Ci4-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,
• a hydrogen atom, - R-25 i s chosen from:
O
• the group R2 C—
• a hydrogen atom,
- R24 , R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups .
The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
Among the compounds of formula (XVIII), examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxy ethyl dimethyl ammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylm ethyl ammonium,
mo noacyloxyethyldi hydroxy ethyl methyl ammonium,
triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl group s preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil . When the compound contains several acyl group s, these groups may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, trii sopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldii sopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 1 8 by Rewo-Witco. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight maj ority of diester salts.
Mixtures of ammonium salts that can b e used include, for example, the mixture containing 1 5% to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, 45% to 60% of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate and 1 5%) to 30%> of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl groups having from 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and originating from palm oil, which i s optionally partially hydrogenated.
It is al so possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 1 80.
Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 13 1 .
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particul arly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethyl- ammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particul arly behenyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
When they are present, the amount of the cationic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 %> to 20% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant compri sing, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups . These anionic groups are preferably chosen from -CO2H, -C02 ", - S O3H, - SO3 ", -O S O3H, -O S O3 ", -H2PO3 , -HPO3 ", -PO32 ", -H2PO2, =HP02, -HPO2 ", =P02 ", =POH and =PO" groups . Mention may be made, as examples of anionic surface-active agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyli sethionates and N-acyltaurates, polyglycoside polycarb oxyli c acid and alkyl monoester salts, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non- salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds compri sing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group .
These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably compri se from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of C6 - C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C6 - C24 alkyl polyglycoside- citrates, C6 - C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6 - C24 alkyl poly glycoside- sulfo succinates .
When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salt s such as the magnesium salts .
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially b e mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, dii sopropanolamine or trii sopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- l -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl- l , 3 -propanediol salts and tri s(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, use i s preferably made of (C6-C24)alkyl sulfates, (C6-C24)alkyl ether sulfates compri sing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
It i s particularly preferred to use (C i 2-C2o)alkyl sulfates, (C 1 2- C2o)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds. Better still, use is made of sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.
When they are present, the amount of the anionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be used in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in the "Handbook of Surfactants " by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp . 1 16- 178. They are especially chosen from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated alcohol s, a-diols and (C i_2o)alkylphenol s, containing at least one fatty chain compri sing, for example, from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms, the numb er of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.
Mention may al so be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, optionally oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, derivatives of N-alkylglucamine and of N- acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamides and amine oxides.
Unless otherwi se mentioned, the term "fatty" compound (for example a fatty acid) denotes a compound compri sing, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and even better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
The mono- or polyglycosides that may be used in the invention are well known and may be represented more particularly by the general formula (XIX) below:
Ri O-(R20)t (G)v (XIX) in which :
Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl group, compri sing from about 8 to 24 carb on atoms, or an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group compri ses from 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
R2 represents an alkylene group compri sing from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
G represents a sugar unit compri sing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 4, and
v denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1 5.
Mono- or polyglycosides that are preferred in the present invention are (C8-C i 8)alkyl mono- or polyglycosides and are compounds of formula (XIX) in which :
Ri more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms,
t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and even more particularly i s equal to 0,
G may denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose.
The degree of polymerization, i. e. the value of v in formula (XIX), may range from 1 to 1 5 and preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization i s more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferentially from 1 . 1 to 1 .5.
The glycoside bonds between the sugar units are of 1 -6 or 1 -4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type. Examples of compounds of formula (XIX) are especially caprylylglucoside, decylglucoside or caprylglucoside, laurylglucoside, cetearylglucoside and cocoglucoside, and mixtures thereof. These preferred compounds of formula (XIX) are especially represented by the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 110 or Oramix CG 110 and Triton CG 312 or Oramix® NS 10, the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or those sold by the company Chem Y under the name AGIO LK.
It is also possible to use, for example, (C8-Ci6)alkyl-1,4- polyglucoside as an aqueous 53% solution, sold by the company Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
Among the cited nonionic surfactants, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides are preferably used.
When they are present, the amount of the nonionic surfactant or surfactants varies preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably nonsilicone, which can be used in the present invention may especially be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8- C2o)alkyl ami do(C6-C8)alkyl sulfobetaines.
Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (Al) and (A2): RaCONHCH2CH2N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO") (Al) which:
Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
and
Ra>CONHCH2CH2N(B)(B') (A2) which:
B represents the group -CH2CH2OX',
B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2,
X' represents the group -CH2COOH, CH2COOZ',
-CH2CH2COOH, -CH2CH2COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,
Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', the group
-CH2CHOHSO3H or the group -CH2CHOHS03Z' ,
Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine,
Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C17 and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.
When they are present, the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more non-siliceous fatty substances.
The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013><105 Pa), i.e. with a solubility of less than 5%), preferably of less than 1% and even more preferably of less than 0.1%. The non-siliceous fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and not comprising any siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
The term "non-siliceous fatty substance" means a fatty substance whose structure does not comprise any silicon atoms.
The fatty substances that may be used in the composition according to the invention are generally not oxyalkylenated and preferably do not contain any carboxylic acid COOH functions.
Preferably, the non-siliceous fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones and fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, they are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
They may be liquid or non-liquid, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
The liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s"1.
The term "liquid hydrocarbon" means a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 105 Pa), which is especially of mineral or plant origin, preferably of plant origin.
More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from: - linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-Ci6 alkanes.
Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product sold under the brand name Parleam® by the company NOF Corporation, and squalane.
In one preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and liquid petroleum jelly.
The term "liquid fatty alcohol" means a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 105 Pa).
Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 50 carbon atoms. The liquid fatty alcohol s of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
The saturated liquid fatty alcohol s are preferably branched. They may optionally compri se in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohol s of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, i sostearyl alcohol and 2- hexyldecanol.
Octyldodecanol is mo st particularly preferred.
The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conj ugated or unconj ugated.
These unsaturated fatty alcohol s may be linear or branched. They may optionally compri se in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
More particularly, the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleyl al cohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
Oleyl alcohol is mo st particularly preferred.
The term "liquid fatty esters" means an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol that i s liquid at standard temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i. e . 1 .01 3 x 105 Pa) .
The esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C i -C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C i -C26 aliphatic monoalcohol s or polyalcohol s, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohol s, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived i s branched.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohol s, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, i sopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and isononyl isononanoate.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci- C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
Mention may be made especially of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon- based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters .
More particularly, use i s made of monoesters and diesters and in particular of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or oleostearates.
An example that may be mentioned i s the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which i s a methylglucose dioleate .
Finally, use may al so be made of natural or synthetic glycerol esters of mono-, di- or triacids .
Among these, mention may be made of plant oil s.
As oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may b e used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, examples that may be mentioned include :
- triglyceride oil s of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil , wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 8 10, 8 12 and 8 1 8 by the company Dynamit Nobel, j oj oba oil and shea butter oil .
Liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will preferably be used as esters according to the invention.
Isopropyl myri state and i sopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred. The liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.
The fatty substances of the invention may be liquid or non- liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013xl05 Pa).
The term "non-liquid" preferably means a solid compound or a compound that has a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s"1.
More particularly, the non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non- siliceous waxes and fatty ethers, which are non-liquid and preferably solid.
The non-liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol).
As regards the non-liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, mention may be made especially of solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.
Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may be made especially of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate and dioctyl maleate. Among all the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, and alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate.
The non-siliceous wax(es) are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and ceramides.
The ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are known per se and are natural or synthetic molecules that may correspond to the general formula (XX) below:
R3CHOH— CH— CH2OR2
NH
C=0 Rl (XX) in which:
- Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid,
- R-2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m or sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8,
- R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups,
it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also denote a C15-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C 16 - C30 a- hydroxy acid.
The ceramides which are preferred in the context of the present invention are those described by Downing in Arch. Dermatol . , Vol . 123 , 138 1 - 1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.
The ceramide(s) that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R3 denotes a saturated linear C 1 5 group .
Such compounds are, for example, N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine or N- behenoyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds .
Even more preferentially, use i s made of ceramides for which
Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids, R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2) i 2-CH3 group .
Other waxes or waxy starting material s that may be used according to the invention are especially marine waxes such as those sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and waxes of polyethylene or of polyolefins in general .
The non-liqui d fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and especially dicetyl ether and di stearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
Preferably, the non- siliceous fatty sub stances according to the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohol s, fatty esters and ceramides.
Even more preferably, the non- siliceous fatty sub stances are chosen from liquid petroleum j elly, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and a mixture thereof such as cetyl stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, i sopropyl palmitate, i sopropyl myri state, N- oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine and N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine. The non-siliceous fatty sub stance(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.05 % to 1 0%) by weight and better still from 0. 1 %> to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition may al so compri se one or more soli d particles . Among these solid particles, antidandruff agents such as zinc pyridinethione, selenium di sulfide and ellagic acid, fillers, and especially silica, titanium dioxi de, pigments, dyes, abrasive powders such as pumice and apricot kernel powder may be present in the composition according to the invention.
The composition according to the present invention may al so contain one or more reducing agents, especially such as sulfureous reducing agents . These agents are preferably chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto groups (- SH), sulfites and sulfite derivatives .
Among the sulfite derivatives that are essentially denoted are bi sulfites and sulfite diesters of formula RO S O2R' , with R and R' denoting C 1 - C 1 0 alkyl groups.
The organi c compounds compri sing a mercapto group are preferably chosen from the following compounds : thioglycolic aci d, thiolactic acid, cysteine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3 -mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thi oxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, and thioglycolic or thiolactic acid esters, and mixtures of these compounds.
The sulfureous reducing agent(s) may be used especially in the form of salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium and calcium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and amino alcohol salts.
In a particularly preferred manner, the sulfureous reducing agent(s) are chosen from thioglycolic acid and salts thereof, thiolactic acid and salts thereof, alkali metal sulfites and especially sodium sulfite, alkali metal bisulfites and especially sodium bisulfite, and precursors of these sulfites or bisulfites such as sodium metabisulfite.
The sulfureous reducing agent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and especially from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one oxidizing agent.
Such an oxidizing agent is preferably chosen from the group formed by hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.
The use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred.
According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic polymers.
The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous.
The term "anhydrous" refers to a composition not containing any added water, i.e. a composition in which the water that may be present comes only from the water of crystallization or of adsorption of the starting materials. In any case, an anhydrous composition contains less than 5% by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
Whether it is anhydrous or aqueous, the composition according to the invention may contain one or more organic solvents that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 105 Pa). Preferably, the liquid organic solvent(s) are chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, polyol ethers, C5-C10 alkanes, C3-C4 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, C1-C4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane, silicone oils and the non-siliceous liquid fatty substances described above, and mixtures thereof. When the composition of the invention is aqueous, its pH i s generally between 2 and 9 and in particular b etween 3 and 8. Preferably, the pH i s less than 7. Even more preferentially, it ranges from 3 to 6.
It may be adj usted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetics for this type of application, or alternatively using standard buffer systems .
Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include the organic acids already mentioned previously, or mineral acids .
The term "mineral acid" means any acid derived from a mineral compound. Among the mineral acids, mention may be made of hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acids and nitric acid.
Use may be made especially of mineral or organi c acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic aci d, and sulfonic acids.
Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanol amines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of the following formula:
Figure imgf000053_0001
in which W i s a propylene residue optionally sub stituted with a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C4 alkyl group ; Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C4 alkyl or C 1 -C4 hydroxyalkyl group .
Preferably, the pH modifiers may be chosen from alkaline agents, such as aqueous ammoni a, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1 , 3 -propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl- l -propanol, or el se acidifying agents, such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.
The compositions according to the invention may al so compri se one or more additives chosen from fixing polymers, pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, water-soluble or liposoluble, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, conditioning agents other than the silicones and cationic polymers mentioned above, solubilizers, antioxidants, antidandruff agents other than those mentioned above, anti- seborrhoei c agents, hair-lo ss counteractants and/or hair restorers, penetrants, fragrances, peptizers and preserving agents, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.
These additives can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and amounts thereof so that they do not interfere with the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
The present invention al so relates to a cosmetic hair treatment process, which consi sts in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above.
Thi s application may or may not be followed by rinsing.
When the application of the composition is followed by rinsing, the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin material s ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better still from 10 seconds to 10 minutes.
Whether in rinsed mode or non-rinsed mode, the application of the composition may take place in the presence of heat. The heating device may be a hairdryer, a hood dryer, a curling iron or a flat iron. The heating temperature may be between 40°C and 220°C .
The application of the composition according to the invention to the hair may take place on dry hair or on wet hair. It may in particular b e carried out after a shampooing operation or after a pretreatment at acidic or basic pH. The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
In the following examples, all the amounts are shown as percentage by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Example 1
The compositions according to the invention were prepared from the compounds indicated in Table 1 below.
Table 1
Figure imgf000055_0001
1 'the alkoxysilane of formula (I) i s chosen from the following compounds : octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxy silane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane.
(2) the silicone i s chosen from the following families : amodimethicones such as the product sold under the name Wacker-Bel sil ADM LOG 1 by the company Wacker, polydimethyl siloxanes containing trimethyl silyl end groups, such as the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, silicones containing a quaternary ammonium group, such as the products sold under the name Abil Quat 3272 or 3474 by the company Evonik-Goldschmidt.
Example 2 : A composition according to the invention (composition A) i s compared with a comparative composition (composition B) not compri sing silicone.
Composition A according to the invention and composition B outside the invention were prepared according to the formulations given in Table 2 above.
Table 2
Figure imgf000056_0001
( 1 ) sold under the name Dynasylan Octeo by the company Evonik.
(2) sold under the name Wacker-Bel sil ADM LOG 1 by the company Wacker ( 1 5 % active material).
(3 ) sold under the name Natrosol 250 HHR PC by the company Ashland.
When applied to wet hair, composition A affords greater ease of di sentangling on wet and dry hair than composition B .
The fibre is more uniform, softer and lighter with composition A than with composition B , and the head of hair is not made lank.
The very good performance qualities of composition A according to the invention last for at least 10 shampoo washes . Example 3
The compositions according to the invention were prepared from the compounds indicated in Table 3 below.
Table 3
Figure imgf000057_0001
the alkoxysilane of formula (I) i s chosen from the following compounds : octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxy silane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane.
1 ' the alkoxysilane other than the compounds of formula (I) i s chosen from the following compounds : aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), triethoxysilylbutyr aldehyde, bi s [trimethoxy silyl propyl] amine.
(3 ) the thickener i s chosen from the following families : cellulose derivatives, guar gums, xanthan gum, associative polymers, crosslinked acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymer, SMDI/alkyl- terminated polyethylene glycol copolymer.
(4) the surfactant is chosen from an alkylpolyglucoside and an alkylbetaine. Example 4 :
A composition according to the invention (composition C) i s compared with a comparative composition (composition D) not compri sing any alkoxysilane other than that of formula (I) .
Composition C according to the invention and composition D outside the invention were prepared according to the formulations given in Table 4 above. Table 4
Figure imgf000058_0001
( 1 ) sold under the name Dynasylan Octeo by the company Evonik.
(2) sold under the trade name Xiameter OF S-601 1 Silane by company Dow Corning.
(3 ) sold under the name Plantacare 8 1 8 UP by the company Cogni s .
(4) sold under the name Natrosol 250 HHR PC by the company Ashland. Treatment:
The above compositions were tested on locks of bl eached hair. 1 g of each of these compositions was applied per 2.7 g lock. The application was performed at room temperature to wet hair after shampooing.
The treatments performed with composition C according to the invention show very good working qualities, especi ally such as ease of application and of rinsing, and al so a very good feel quality after rinsing. · Sensory analysi s :
A panel of experts then performed a comparative evaluation between compositions C and D, giving a grade ranging from 0 (poor) to 5 (very good) for each of the cosmeti c properties of the wet hair, li sted in the table below. The averages of the grades obtained are as follows : C D
Di sentangling 4.8 4.0
Suppleness 4.5 3 .5
Smoothness 4.0 3 .2
Individualized 4.5 3 .5
These results show that the treatment with composition C of the invention affords more ease of di sentangling, softness and individualization on wet hair.
These results al so show that the hair is smoother with composition C in accordance with the invention.
A study of the shampoo resi stance of the cosmetic effects ob served on application was also performed by the same panel of experts. After 1 0 shampoo washes, the average grades obtained for compositions C and D are as follows :
Figure imgf000059_0001
After 10 shampoo washes, the suppleness and smoothness and al so the individualization and di sentangling properties are not conserved for composition D, whereas they are for composition C according to the invention.

Claims

1 . Cosmetic composition comprising:
- one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes of formula (I) below:
Ri Si(OR2)3 (I) in which Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group compri sing from 7 to 1 8 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 6 carb on atoms, in a proportion ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
- one or more siliceous cosmetic agents chosen from silicones, alkoxysilanes other than those of formula (I), and mixtures thereof, in a proportion ranging from 0.00 1 %) to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that R2 represents an alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group .
3 . Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that Ri represents an alkyl group and even more preferentially a linear alkyl group .
4. Composition according to Claims 1 to 3 , characterized in that the alkoxy silane of formula (I) i s chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxy si lane and hexadecyltriethoxysilane.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) are present in proportions ranging from 0.5% to 1 8%> by weight and better still from 2% to 1 5%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone(s) are chosen from : ( 1 ) volatile silicones chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260° C, and preferably from:
(1) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, and (ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 χ 10"6 m2/s at 25 °C, and
(2) non-volatile silicones, preferably polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, sili cone gum s and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional group s, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone(s) are chosen from polydimethyl siloxanes containing trimethyl silyl end groups or dimethicones, containing dimethyl silanol end groups or dimethiconol, quaternized or non-quaternized amino sili cones, such as amodimethicones or silicones containing a quaternary ammonium group, polyoxyethylenated silicones, and more preferentially from polydimethyl siloxanes containing trimethyl silyl end group s and amino silicones, which are preferably non-quaternized.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkoxysilanes, other than those of formula (I), are preferably compounds of formul a (G)4-xSi(OR)x, with x denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 3 , G denoting identical or different monovalent groups and R denoting a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group compri sing one or more carbon atom s and optionally one or more heteroatoms, and are preferably chosen from:
- the compounds of formula (VIII) b elow :
Figure imgf000061_0001
in which :
R6 represents a halogen or a group OR' or R' 6,
R7 represents a halogen or a group OR" or R' 7, R8 represents a halogen or a group OR'" or R'8,
R3, R4, Rs, R', R", R'", R'e, R'? and R'8 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon- based group, optionally bearing additional chemical groups, R3, R4, R', R" and R'" also possibly denoting hydrogen, at least two of the groups R6, R7 and R8 being different from the groups R'6, R'7 and R'8, at least two of the groups R', R" and R'" being other than hydrogen, - the compounds of formula (X) below:
Figure imgf000062_0001
in which:
R11 represents a halogen or a group OR'n and R12 represents a halogen or a group OR'12, at least one of the groups Rn and R12 being other than a halogen,
R'11 and R'12 represent, independently of each other, hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-Cu, hydrocarbon- based group, at least one of the groups R'n and R'12 being other than hydrogen,
R9 is a non-hydrolysable functional group with a cosmetic effect, and
Rio is a non-hydrolysable functional group bearing a function chosen from the following functions: amine, carboxylic acid and salts thereof, sulfonic acid and salts thereof, polyalcohols such as glycol, polyether such as polyalkene ether, and phosphoric acid and salts thereof,
- the compounds of formula (XI) below:
Figure imgf000062_0002
(XI) in which:
Ri4 represents a halogen or a group OR'H or R0,
Ri5 represents a halogen or a group OR'15 or R'0,
Ri6 represents a halogen or a group OR'i6 or R"0,
at least two of the groups R14, R15 and Ri6 being different from the groups Ro, R'o and R"o,
Ri3 is a group chosen from groups bearing at least one function chosen from the following functions: carboxylic acid and salts thereof, sulfonic acid and salts thereof, polyalkyl ethers,
Ro, R'o, R"o, R'i4, R'i5 and R'i6 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C14 hydrocarbon-based group, optionally bearing additional chemical functions chosen from the following functions: carboxylic acid and salts thereof, sulfonic acid and salts thereof, polyalkyl ethers, R'14, R'i5 and R'i6 also possibly denoting hydrogen, at least two of the groups R'14, R'i5 and R'i6 being other than hydrogen,
- the compounds of formula (XII) below: (R210)x(R22)ySi(B)p[NR23(B')p']q[NR'23(B")p"]q'Si(R'22)y'(OR'2i)x'
(XII) in which:
R2i, R22, R'2i and R'22 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 3, y = 3-x, x' is an integer ranging from 1 to 3, y' = 3-x', p = 0 or 1, p' = 0 or 1, p" = 0 or 1, q = 0 or 1, q' = 0 or 1, it being understood that at least q or q' is other than zero,
B, B' and B" each independently represent a linear or branched divalent Ci-C2o alkylene radical, R-23 and R'23 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C3-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups,
- the compounds of formula (XIII) below:
Figure imgf000064_0001
(XIII)
in which:
R24 and R25 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
x" = 2 or 3,
y" = 3-x",
n* = 0 or 1,
n" = 0 or 1,
E and E' each independently represent a linear or branched divalent C1-C20 alkylene group,
R26 and R27 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups,
r is an integer ranging from 0 to 4,
r' = 0 or 1,
the group(s) R28 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched preferably C1-C10 hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups, and - the compounds of formula (XIV) below, and acetals thereof:
Figure imgf000065_0001
in which:
R29 and R3o each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
xl = 2 or 3, yl = 3-xl,
Ai represents a linear or branched Ci-C20 divalent alkylene group, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more Ci-C30 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C3o aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups,
s = 0 or 1,
9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the alkoxysilane(s), other than those of formula (I), are chosen from di- and/or trialkoxysilanes bearing one or more substituents comprising one or more amine functions, preferably from trialkoxysilanes bearing a sub stituent compri sing one or more amine functions, more particularly from the compounds of formula (IX), and better still i s aminopropyltriethoxysilane.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the siliceous cosmetic agent(s) are present in proportions ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight and better still from 0. 1 %) to 10%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
1 1 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the amount of fatty- chain alkoxy silane(s) of formula (I), on the one hand, and the amount of siliceous cosmetic agent(s), on the other hand, i s greater than or equal to 0. 1 , preferably ranges from 0. 1 to 50, more preferably from 0.2 to 25 and better still from 0.5 to 20.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it compri ses one or more additives chosen from thickeners, organic acids, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants, non- siliceous fatty sub stances, solid particles, reducing agents and oxidizing agents, and mixtures thereof.
13 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it i s anhydrous.
14. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it i s aqueous.
1 5. Cosmetic hair treatment process, characterized in that it consi sts in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 and then in optionally rinsing the hair after an optional leave-on time, in the presence or ab sence of heat.
16. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, for haircare.
PCT/EP2011/068520 2010-10-26 2011-10-24 Cosmetic composition comprising a fatty-chain alkoxysilane and a siliceous cosmetic agent. WO2012055805A1 (en)

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FR1058807 2010-10-26
FR1058806 2010-10-26
FR1058806A FR2966355B1 (en) 2010-10-26 2010-10-26 COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FATTY CHAIN ALCOXYSILANE AND A SILICONE
FR1058807A FR2966356B1 (en) 2010-10-26 2010-10-26 COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FATTY CHAIN ALCOXYSILANE AND AN ALCOXYSILANE DIFFERENT FROM THE FIRST
US41157910P 2010-11-09 2010-11-09
US61/411,579 2010-11-09
US41203510P 2010-11-10 2010-11-10
US61/412,035 2010-11-10

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FR3060380A1 (en) * 2016-12-16 2018-06-22 L'oreal INVERSE EMULSION COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIQUID FATTY BODY, A SILICONE SURFACTANT, AN ORGANOSILANE AND A CATIONIC POLYMER
US10524999B2 (en) 2015-12-14 2020-01-07 L'oreal Composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes and a fatty substance
WO2020089364A1 (en) * 2018-10-31 2020-05-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Bis(triethoxysilylpropyl)amines in combination with a thickening agent
WO2020089366A1 (en) * 2018-10-31 2020-05-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Bis(triethoxysilylpropyl)amines combined with an acid
WO2020089374A1 (en) * 2018-10-31 2020-05-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Composition of active ingredients, for care and surface modification of human hair
WO2020089360A1 (en) * 2018-10-31 2020-05-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Composition of active ingredients for caring for and modifiying human hair
WO2020089354A1 (en) * 2018-10-31 2020-05-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Active substance composition for modifying hair surface and changing the shape of hair
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US20210393498A1 (en) * 2018-10-31 2021-12-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Bis(triethoxysilylpropyl)amines combined with an aldehyde
JP2022506239A (en) * 2018-10-31 2022-01-17 ヘンケル・アクチェンゲゼルシャフト・ウント・コムパニー・コマンディットゲゼルシャフト・アウフ・アクチェン Cosmetics for the treatment of keratin substances with anti-contamination effects
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