WO2012038534A1

WO2012038534A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising at least one calcium salt, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one cationic surfactant and at least one thickener

Info

Publication number: WO2012038534A1
Application number: PCT/EP2011/066599
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anne-Sophie Albert; Samira Khenniche; Isabelle Rollat-Corvol
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2010-09-24
Filing date: 2011-09-23
Publication date: 2012-03-29
Also published as: FR2965172A1; FR2965172B1

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising at least one calcium salt, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one cationic surfactant and at least one thickener The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition preferably for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least 1.5% by weight of one or more calcium salts, one or more fatty alcohols, one or more cationic surfactants and one or more nonionic or cationic thickeners and an amount of water which is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and also to the use of the said cosmetic composition for haircare. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres using the said cosmetic composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising at least one calcium salt, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one cationic surfactant and

at least one thickener

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, compri sing at least 1 .5% by weight of one or more water-solubl e calcium salts, one or more fatty alcohol s, one or more cationi c surfactants, one or more nonionic or cationic thickeners and an amount of water greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and al so to the use of the sai d cosmetic composition for haircare. The present invention al so relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres using the said cosmetic composition.

Many people are unsati sfied with the way their hair looks, and have difficulty in styling it. Hair i s generally subj ect to the action of external atmospheric agents, such as light and bad weather. Furthermore, mechanical treatments such as brushing, combing or pl aiting, or long-lasting dyeing, colouring, permanent-waving, thiol- or alkali-mediated straightening or alkali-mediated relaxing cosmetic treatments al so damage and embrittle the hair.

These mechanical or chemical attacking factors thus make the hair dry, coarse, dull and brittle especially in the fragile places, and more particularly at the ends . Moreover, sub stantial hygrometry also usually leads to swelling of the head of hair, which makes it increasingly difficult to manage.

To overcome thi s, products for improving the appearance of the hair have b een developed. These products are generally cosmetic compositions such as shampoos or hair conditioners, leave-in products, masks or sera.

Thus, international patent application WO 95/01 1 52 describes compositions comprising cationic conditioning agents that may be combined with silicone conditioning agents . These products have sati sfactory cleansing effects, but form a structure around the hair that i s not always uniform.

One drawback associated with the use of these haircare compositions lies in the fact that silicones make the hair very heavy and lank, thi s phenomenon being known as "build-up" . Thus, these compositions leave the hair lank, not fine over the entire length, and slow to dry. Even after drying and styling, the hair does not have all the desired softness, sheen and lightness. The haircare potential of compositions containing such silicones i s thus limited.

In the field of cosmetic care, it is al so known practice to use cleansing compositions compri sing salts, as in Japanese patent JP 20020471 19 or in Japanese patent application JP 2000191 5 14.

Japanese patent application JP 2003095891 proposes, for its part, compositions compri sing salts of quaternary ammonium type that are easy to rinse out.

However, such cosmetic compositi ons cannot afford sati sfactory cosmetic properties as well as good control of the head of hair and of its volume.

There i s thus a real need to find cosmetic compositions that give the hair good cosmetic properties, whil st being able simultaneously to improve the hairstyle hold properties and to control the volume of the head of hair.

Thus, the aim of the present invention i s to provide a composition that can achieve these obj ectives.

Surpri singly and advantageously, the Applicant has j ust di scovered that a cosmetic composition compri sing one or more water- soluble calcium salts in an amount of greater than or equal to 1 .5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more fatty alcohol s, one or more cationic surfactants, one or more nonionic or cationi c thickeners and an amount of water which i s greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition has improved properties for solving the problems mentioned above.

Specifically, it has been found that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can give keratin fibres, and more parti cularly wet or dry hair, improved cosmetic properties especially as regards the sheen, the smoothness, the suppleness, the lightness, the uniformity and the fineness (sensation of having finer hair), while at the same time controlling the volume of the hair.

In particular, on wet hair, smoother, more supple, finer hair i s especially obtained. In addition, once dried, the hair i s al so smoother, shinier, finer and lighter, and has a more silky feel .

Moreover, the composition according to the invention enables control of the head of hair and of its volume especially as a function of the relative humidity of the air, especially for relative humidities that may range from 20% to 80%. The hairstyle thus remains in place more easily, and for longer, the volume of the head of hair i s controlled, and the frizzing i s greatly reduced.

The relative humidity (RH) or hygrometry represents the measurement of the amount of water in the air. Thi s measurement is taken using a machine such as a psychrometer or a capacitive-probe hygrometer, and i s defined by the ratio of the pressure exerted by the water vapour contained in the air at a given temperature to the saturating vapour pressure (i. e. the maximum amount of water vapour that thi s air could ab sorb at thi s temperature) . It is given as a percentage on a scale ranging from 0 to 100% .

The compositions according to the invention are al so more stable on storage . In particular, the stability on storage of the compositions according to the invention may be improved both at room temperature (20-25 °C) and at 45 °C, especially as regards their vi sual aspect and their vi scosity. For the purposes of the present invention, the term " stable" means that the vi sual aspect and vi scosity of these compositions do not change sub stantially over time under standard storage test conditions, for example over 12, preferably 24 and even more preferably 30 months at room temperature or over 2 months at 45°C following their manufacture.

The compositions thus obtained al so have good working properties, i. e. these compositions can be rinsed out and be spread more easily over the entire head of hair. In addition, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a texture that enables them, once appli ed to the hair, to remain for certain time without running. In other words, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be deposited on the hair without running. Thi s improved, or even gelled, texture enables smaller amounts of products to be used.

Finally, hair treated with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention dries more quickly .

One subj ect of the present invention is a cosmetic composition preferably for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more water-soluble calcium salts in an amount of greater than or equal to 1 .5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more fatty alcohol s, one or more cationic surfactants, one or more nonionic or cationic thickeners and an amount of water which i s greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A subj ect of the invention i s al so a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to the invention i s applied to the said fibres, and i s optionally rinsed out after an optional leave-in time.

The present invention al so relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for conditioning keratin fibres, such as the hair.

Other subj ects, characteri stics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

Calcium salts

The composition according to the invention compri ses an amount of greater than or equal to 1 .5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more water-soluble calcium salts . The term "water-soluble calcium salt " means a calcium salt with a solubility in water at 20°C of greater than or equal to 20 g/litre (g/L) of water, preferentially 100 g/L and even more preferentially 300 g/L.

Preferably, the calcium salts according to the invention have solubilities ranging from 30 to 4500 g/L.

The water-soluble calcium salts according to the invention are preferably chosen from inorganic calcium salts.

The calcium salts may be anhydrous or hydrated.

Preferentially, the water-soluble calcium salt(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from calcium iodide, calcium bromi de, calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, calcium borogluconate, calcium sulfate, calcium lactate, calcium cyclamate, calcium levulinate, calcium phenol sulfonate, calcium thiosulfate, calcium nitrate and calcium acetate, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the calcium salt used in the composition according to the invention i s calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, calcium lactate, calcium acetate or calcium sulfate, or mixtures thereof.

The calcium metal salt(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from inorganic calcium salts.

Even more preferentially, the calcium salt used in the composition according to the invention is calcium chlori de, especially the dihydrate salt.

The water-soluble calcium salt(s) used in the composition according to the present invention are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1 .5% to 50% by weight, preferentially in an amount ranging from 1 .5% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty alcohols

The cosmetic composition according to the invention al so compri ses one or more fatty alcohols.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol" means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohol containing at least 8 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 8 to 40 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R preferably denotes a C 8 - C40 and preferably C 12 - C24 alkyl or a C 8 - C40 and preferably C 12 - C24 alkenyl group . R may be sub stituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and especially with one or two hydroxyl groups .

Examples that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl al cohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexi st, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 25 °C . For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol that is solid or pasty at 25 °C" means a fatty alcohol that has a vi scosity, measured with a rheometer (for example an R600 rheometer) at a shear rate of 1 s^{" 1} , of greater than or equal to 1 Pa. s.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol s used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are stearyl al cohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl stearyl alcohol.

Even more preferentially, the fatty alcohol used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention i s cetyl alcohol.

The fatty alcohol(s) used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30%, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Nonionic or cationic thickeners

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic or cationic thickeners.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickener" means any compound whose presence increases the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced by at least 25 cps and preferably 50 cps at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s^"1.

The nonionic thickener(s) may be chosen from fatty acid amides, oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters and nonionic thickening polymers, or mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty acid amide" means an amide comprising in its structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.

The fatty acid amides are more particularly chosen from compounds derived from an amide of an alkanolamine and of a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acid, the alkanolamine and/or the fatty acid being optionally oxyalkylenated and more particularly oxyethylenated with 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, the fatty acid amides are chosen from amides of a C2-C10 alkanolamine and of a C14-C30 fatty acid, and even more preferentially from amides of a C2-C10 alkanolamine and of a C14-C22 fatty acid.

Advantageously, the fatty acid amide is chosen from:

- coconut acid monoisopropanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name Empilan CLS by the company Huntsman,

- oleic acid diethanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name Mexanyl® GT by the company Chimex,

- myristic acid monoethanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name Comperlan® MM by the company Cognis, - soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name Comperlan® VOD by the company Cogni s,

- stearic acid ethanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name Monamid® S by the company Uniqema,

- oleic acid monoi sopropanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name Witcamide® 61 by the company Witco,

- linoleic acid diethanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name Purton® SFD by the company Z schimmer Schwarz,

- stearic acid monoethanol ami de, such as the amide sold under the trade name Monamid® 972 by the company ICI/Uniqema,

- behenic acid monoethanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name Incromide® BEM from Croda,

- isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name Witcamide® SPA by the company Witco,

- erucic acid diethanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name erucic acid diethanolamide by the company Stearineries Dubois,

- ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name ricinoleic monoethanolamide by the company Stearineries Duboi s,

- rapeseed fatty acid amide containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide, such as the product sold under the name Amidet N by the company Kao.

The nonionic thickener(s) may be chosen from oxyalkylenated derivatives of fatty acid esters or of fatty alcohol ethers.

Oxyalkyl enated derivatives of fatty acid esters that may especially be mentioned include ethoxylated alkyl or acyl derivative s of polyols, which may in particular be oxyethylenated derivatives of C6 - C30 fatty acid esters or of C6 - C30 fatty alcohol ethers, and of polyols such as glycerol, sorbitol, glucose, pentaerythritol or polyethylene glycol, more particularly polyethylene glycol, these oxyethylenated derivatives generally compri sing from 50 to 500 oxyethylene groups and preferably from 100 to 300 oxyethylene group s. Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned include ethylene glycol stearate, polyethylene glycol di stearate compri sing 1 50 oxyethyl ene group s ( 1 50 OE), oxyethylenated (200 OE) glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name Simul sol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC, oxyethylenated ( 1 50 OE) pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, such as the product sold under the name Crothix® by the company Croda, oxyethylenated ( 120 OE) methylglucose dioleate, such as the product sold under the name Glucamate DOE- 120 Vegetal® by the company Amerchol, oxyethylenated ( 160 OE) sorbitan trii sostearate such as the product sold under the name Rheodol TW IS399C by the company Kao Chemical s, and oxyethylenated (55 ethylene oxide) propylene glycol oleate, such as the product sold under the reference Antil 141 Liquid by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.

In one variant of the invention, the oxyethylenated fatty acid esters are of formula (A) below:

Ri -CO(X)„-(OCH₂CH₂)_m-0-(CO)p-R₂ (A)

X denoting a linear or branched C ₁ -C₄ alkylene radical, and preferably the radical having the following formula:

— CH₂— CH- CH, n denoting 0 or 1 ,

p denoting 0 or 1 ,

m ranging from 50 to 200, and

Ri denoting a linear or branched C > - C₂9 alkyl or alkenyl radical and R₂ denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C > - C₂9 alkyl or alkenyl radical.

More particularly, among these esters, polyethylene glycol di stearate compri sing 1 50 oxyethylene groups ( 1 50 OE) i s preferred.

The thickening polymers of the invention are different from the amides and esters already described and al so from products resulting merely from the condensation of an alkylene oxide with an alcohol, an ester or an amide.

The nonionic thickening polymers may be associative or non- associative.

According to the invention, the term "non-associative thickening polymer" means a thickening polymer not simultaneously compri sing at least one C 8 - C 3 0 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.

The nonionic non-associative thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin . They are chosen especially from:

(i) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type,

(ii) vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers or copolymers,

(iii) polysaccharides .

Among the nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type that may be mentioned are polyamides, especially the products sold under the names : Cyanamer P250 by the company Cytec (polyacrylamide) ; methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymers (PMMA MBX-8C by the company US Cosmetics); butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers (Acryloid B66 by the company Rohm & Haas); polymethyl methacrylate (BPA 500 by the company Kobo) .

The vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers or copolymers are chosen especially from crosslinked vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers such as the Polymer ACP- 10 sold by ISP .

The thickening polysaccharides are especially chosen from glucans, modified or unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables, for instance yellow pea, and tubers, for instance potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, cellul oses and derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcellulo ses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arables, gum tragacanths, ghatti gum s, karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof.

In general, the compounds of this type that may be used in the present invention are chosen from those described especially in Kirk- Othmer' s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, 1 982, volume 3 , pp . 896-900, and volume 1 5 , pp . 439-458, in Polymers in Nature by E. A. MacGregor and C . T . Greenwood, publi shed by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp . 240-328, 1980, and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, edited by Roy L. Whi stler, Second Edition, publi shed by Academi c Press Inc. , the content of these three publications being entirely included in the present patent application by way of reference.

Starches, guar gums and cellulo ses and derivatives thereof will preferably be used.

The polysaccharides can be modified or unmodified.

The unmodifi ed guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Rhodia Chimie.

The modified nonionic guar gums are especially modified with C 1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl groups .

Among the hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned, for example, are hydroxymethyl, hydroxy ethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can b e prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups .

The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1 .2.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP 120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon.

Among the celluloses that are especi ally used are hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcellulo ses . Mention may be made of the products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF and Klucel G by the company Aqualon, and Cellosize Polymer PCG- 10 by the company Amerchol.

The associative nonionic thickening polymers according to the invention may be chosen from:

-( 1 ) celluloses modified with groups compri sing at least one fatty chain;

of which, examples that may be mentioned include :

- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups compri sing at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C 8 - C22 , for instance the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 C S ® (C ₁₆ alkyl) sold by the company Aqualon, or the product B ermocoll EHM 1 00 ® sold by the company Berol Nobel,

hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM- 1 500 ® (polyethylene glycol ( 15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol,

-(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 ® (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210- 1 8 ® (C i 4 alkyl chain) and RE205 - 1 ® (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc.

-(3 ) copolymers of C i -C₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208 ®.

-(4) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers compri sing at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

-(5) polyurethane polyethers compri sing in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

-(6) polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie.

Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers compri se at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.

In parti cular, it i s possible for one or more pendent chains to be included .

In addition, the polymer may compri se a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may b e at each end of the chain (for example : triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or di stributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example multiblock copolymer) . These same polymers may al so b e graft polymers or star polymers.

The fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block i s a polyoxyethylenated chain compri sing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups . The nonionic polyurethane polyethers compri se a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, whence ari ses the name. By extension, also included among the fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205® containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.

Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C_12- C₁₄ alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C₁₈ alkyl chain, from Akzo.

The product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas containing a C₂o alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. The products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas may also be used.

The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci.271, 380-389 (1993).

Even more particularly, according to the invention, it is preferred to use a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyurethane polyethers are sold especially by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 1 50 or 1 80 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebi s(4-cyclohexyl i socyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)] .

Preferably, the nonionic thickening polymers are chosen from non-associative polymers.

Preferentially, the nonionic thickening polymers are chosen from polysaccharides and even more preferentially from celluloses and derivatives thereof such as methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcellulo ses and ethylhydroxyethylcellulo ses .

The cationic thickener(s) may be chosen from associative or non-associative thickening polymers .

The non-associative cationic polymers may be chosen from dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate homopolymers quaternized with methyl chloride or dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with methyl chloride and acrylamide.

Among the homopolymers of thi s type, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Salcare SC95 and Salcare SC96 by the company Ciba. Among the copolymers of thi s family, mention may be made of the product Salcare S C92 sold by Ciba or the product PAS 5 194 sold by Hoechst. These polymers are especially describ ed and prepared in document EP 395 282, to which reference may b e made.

The associative cationic polymers may be chosen from:

-( 1 ) cationic associative polyurethanes, the family of which has been described by the Applicant in French patent application No. 00/09609; it may be represented by the general formula (I) below:

R-X-(P)n- [L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R' (I) in which :

R and R' , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and Χ' , which may be identical or different, represent a group compri sing an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L" ;

L, L' and L", which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a dii socyanate;

P and P ' , which may be identical or different, represent a group compri sing an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group;

Y represents a hydrophilic group;

r is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and in particular between 1 and 25 ;

n, m and p each range, independently of each other, between 0 and 1000;

the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group .

In one preferred embodiment of these polyurethanes, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends .

One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes i s the one corresponding to formula (I) described above and in which :

R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' each represent a group L",

n and p are between 1 and 1000, and

L, L ' , L", P, P ' , Y and m have the meaning given above.

Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (I) above in which :

R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' each represent a group L" , n and p are 0, and L, L ' , L", Y and m have the meaning given above .

The fact that n and p are 0 means that these polymers do not compri se units derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation. The protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysi s of excess i socyanate functions, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i. e . compounds of the type RQ or R' Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (I) above in which :

R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

X and X' both independently represent a group compri sing a quaternary amine,

n and p are zero, and

L, L ' , Y and m have the meaning given above.

The number-average molecular mass of the cationic associative polyurethanes i s preferably between 400 and 500 000, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 and ideally between 1000 and 300 000.

The expression "hydrophobic group" means a radical or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When the hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical, it compri ses at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 1 8 to 30 carbon atoms .

Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.

By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may al so denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

When X and/or X' denote(s) a group compri sing a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X' may represent one of the following formulae :

in which :

R₂ represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally compri sing a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;

Ri and R₃ , which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C i -C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;

A^" i s a physiologically acceptable counterion.

The groups L, L ' and L" represent a group of formula:

— Z— C -NH-R , -NH-C -Z—

I I ⁴ I I

O O

in which :

Z represents -0-, - S- or -NH-; and

R₄ represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally compri sing a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P .

The groups P and P ' compri sing an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae : r

— , -N-R,— or R.-N-R

I I +

R,

^R6 . ^RS

N

R,-CH- or — R,-CH-R₇—

A

^R6 ,^R8

N

I — R.-CH-R.—

I

or Ώ

or _ ₅-CH- R₇—

R^ . - I -Ro A^" in which :

R₅ and R₇ have the same meanings as R₂ defined above;

R₆, R₈ and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined above;

Rio represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group possibly containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P; and

A^" i s a physiologi cally acceptable counterion.

As regards the meaning of Y, the term "hydrophilic group" means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group .

By way of example, when it i s not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol .

When it i s a hydrophilic polymer, in accordance with one preferred embodiment, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound i s preferentially a polyether and especially a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide) . The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (I) that may be used according to the invention are formed from dii socyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing a labil e hydrogen. The functions containing a labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the dii socyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. The expression "polyurethanes that may be used according to the present invention" encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and al so copolymers thereof.

A first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (I) i s a compound compri sing at least one unit containing an amine function. Thi s compound may be multifunctional, but the compound i s preferentially difunctional, that i s to say that, according to one preferential embodiment, thi s compound compri ses two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may al so be used.

As mentioned above, thi s compound may compri se more than one unit containing an amine function. In thi s case, it i s a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.

Compounds of thi s type may be represented by one of the following formulae :

HZ-(P)n-ZH

or

HZ-(P ' )p-ZH in which Z, P, Ρ ' , n and p are as defined above. Examples of compounds containing an amine function that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert- butyldiethanolamine and N- sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

The second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (X) i s a dii socyanate corresponding to the formula:

0=C=N-R₄-N=C=0

in which R₄ i s as defined above.

By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl dii socyanate, methylenecyclohexane dii socyanate, i sophorone dii socyanate, tolylene dii socyanate, naphthalene dii socyanate, butane dii socyanate and hexane dii socyanate.

A third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (I) i s a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (XI) .

Thi s compound i s formed form a hydrophobic group and a function containing a labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

By way of example, thi s compound may be a fatty alcohol such as, in particular, stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl al cohol.

When thi s compound compri ses a polymeric chain, it may be, for example, a-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.

The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (I) may al so result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group i s introduced via the quaternizing agent. Thi s quaternizing agent i s a compound of the type RQ or R' Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

The cationic associative polyurethane may al so compri se a hydrophilic block. Thi s block i s provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional . It i s preferably difunctional . It i s also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound i s low.

The functions containing a labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions . Thi s compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing a labile hydrogen .

When it i s a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophili c compound i s preferentially a polyether and especially a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide) .

The hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (I) i s optional . Specifically, the units containing a quaternary amine or protonated function may suffice to provide the solubility or water-di spersibility required for thi s type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional , cationic associative polyurethanes compri sing such a group are, however, preferred.

-(2) quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates containing non-cyclic amine side groups.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

- quaternized cellulo ses modified with groups compri sing at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups compri sing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,

- quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups compri sing at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups compri sing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

The alkyl radical s borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms . The aryl radical s preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups . Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be mentioned include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B® (C₁₂ alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C₁₈ alkyl) or Softcat Polymer SL100 (C₁₂ alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

- (3) the cationic polymer(s) obtained by polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted with one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers.

In particular, among these cationic polymers, mention may be made especially of the compound sold by the company Noveon under the name Aqua CC and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer is the product of polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:

- a di(C₁-C₄ alkyl)amino(Ci-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,

- one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,

- a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 mol of ethylene oxide units),

- a 30/5 polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol ally 1 ether,

- a hydroxy(C2-C₆ alkyl) methacrylate, and

- an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

In a first variant of the invention, the thickener(s) used in the composition according to the invention are nonionic.

In a second variant of the invention, the thickener(s) used in the composition according to the invention are polymers.

In particular, the thickeners used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from non-associative nonionic thickening polymers.

Preferentially, the thickeners used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from hydroxyalkylcelluloses and more particularly from hydroxy ethylcellulo se and hydroxy propyl cellulose.

Even more preferentially, the thickener used in the composition according to the invention is hydroxy ethylcellulo se.

The nonionic or cationic thickener(s) used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20%, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 0.08% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic surfactant

The composition according to the invention al so compri ses one or more cationic surfactants .

Examples of cationic surfactants that may be used in the cosmetic composition include, in particular, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or terti ary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally compri se at least one C 8 - C 3 0 hydrocarbon-based chain. Among the fatty amines that may be used according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and di stearylamine.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially b e mentioned include :

- those that have the general formula (II) below:

in which the radical s R₈ to Rn , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical compri sing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the radicals R₈ to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2- C₆)alkyl, (Ci2-C22) lkyl acetate or hydroxyalkyl radicals comprising approximately from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C₆)alkyl sulfates, or alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates;

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (III) below:

in which Ri₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri₄ represents a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical and X^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, or alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl radical and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

- di- or triquaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula

(IV): ++

^R17 ^R19

R ₁₆-N-(CH₂)₃-N-R 21 2X-

I I

R 18 R 20

(IV) in which Ri₆ denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and optionally branched, Ri7 is selected from an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms Or a group (Ri₆a)(Rl7a)(Rl8a)N⁺-(CH₂)3-, Rl6a, Rl7a, Rl8a, Rl8,

Ri9, R20 and R₂₁, which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X^" is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below:

in which:

R22 is chosen from Ci-C₆ alkyl radicals and Ci-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R23 is chosen from:

O II

- the radical R_?6— C—

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R27, - a hydrogen atom,

R-25 is chosen from:

O

- the radical _2§— C—

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals R29,

- a hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R₂8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

ri or ti = 0 or 1,

r₂ + ri = 2r,

t₂ + ti = 2t,

X^" is a simple or complex organic or inorganic anion,

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R₂₃ denotes R27 and that when z is 0, then R₂₅ denotes R29-

The alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched, but more particularly linear.

R22 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R₂5 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R₂₄, R26 and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function, may be used.

The anion X^" is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly in the composition according to the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which:

- R₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,

- x and y are equal to 1;

- z is equal to 0 or 1;

- r, s and t are equal to 2;

- R₂3 is chosen from:

O II

- the radical R,₆— C—

- methyl, ethyl or Ci₄-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- a hydrogen atom;

- R₂5 is chosen from:

O II

- the radical R->_¾— C—

^

- a hydrogen atom; - R-24 , R-26 and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based radical s and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl radical s .

The hydrocarbon-based radical s are advantageously linear.

Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (V) such as diacyl oxyethyldimethyl ammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylm ethyl ammonium,

mo noacyloxyethyldi hydroxy ethyl methyl ammonium,

triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulfate, in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl radical s preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radical s, these radical s may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, trii sopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldii sopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty aci ds or with fatty acid mixtures of pl ant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. Thi s esterification i s followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 1 8 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight maj ority of diester salts. Examples of mixtures of ammonium salts that may be used include the mixture containing 15% to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, 45% to 60% of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate and 15% to 30% of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl radicals containing from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and being derived from palm oil that is optionally partially hydrogenated.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants chosen from the compounds of formula (II) or (V).

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preference is given firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

Among all the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, cationic surfactants from among cetyltrimethylammonium (INCI: cetrimonium), behenyltrimethylammonium (INCI: behentrimonium), dip almitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl ammonium, distearoylethyl- hydroxyethylmethylammonium, methyl(C9-Ci9) alkyl(Cio-

C2o)alkylamidoethylimidazolium and stearamidopropyl dimethyl amine salts (chloride or methosulfate), and the stearamidopropyldimethyl- ammonium salt, and mixtures thereof, are preferably chosen.

The cationic surfactants that are particularly preferred in the composition of the invention are selected from quaternary ammonium salts, and in particular from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyl trim ethyl ammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearyl ammonium chloride and palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

The cationic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20%, preferably an amount of cationic surfactants ranging from 0.05% to 10%) and even more preferentially in an amount of cationic surfactants ranging from 0.1%> to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more other active agents that are common in hair hygiene or haircare.

Fatty substances

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional fatty substances other than fatty alcohols.

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a solubility in water of less than 5%), preferably 1%> and even more preferentially 0.1%>. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene or liquid petroleum jelly.

Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) other than fatty alcohols are chosen from fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and non-silicone animal, plant, mineral or synthetic oil s other than the abovementioned esters, and mixtures thereof. a. Oil s

As non-silicone oil s that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include :

hydrocarbon-based oil s of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for exampl e, sunflower oil, corn oil, pracaxi oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, camellina oil , castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol^® 8 10, 8 12 and 8 1 8 by the company Dynamit Nobel, j oj oba oil and shea butter oil ;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as volatile or non- volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum j elly, liquid petroleum j elly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyi sobutene such as Parleam®;

- partially hydrocarbon-based fluoro oil s; fluoro oil s that may al so be mentioned include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1 , 3 -dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec^® PC 1 and Flutec^® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemical s; perfluoro- 1 ,2- dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050^® and PF 5060^® by the company 3 M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl^® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyi sobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052^® by the company 3M. b . Fatty acid esters

It i s recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups compri sing from 1 to 30 and preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally sub stituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4) . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conj ugated or unconj ugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; i socetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C ₁₂-C _{1 5} alkyl lactate; i sostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (i so)stearyl octanoate; i socetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; i socetyl i sostearate; i socetyl laurate; i socetyl stearate; i sodecyl octanoate; i sodecyl oleate; i sononyl isononanoate; i sostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myri styl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2- ethylhexyl i sononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and i sopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myri states such as i sopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myri state, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, i sobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still within the context of thi s variant, esters of C4 - C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 - C22 alcohol s and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 - C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohol s may al so be used.

Mention may be made especially of: diethyl sebacate; dii sopropyl sebacate; dii sopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; dii sostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetrai sostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; trii sopropyl citrate; trii sostearyl citrate; glyceryl tril actate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii sononanoate; and polyethylene glycol di stearates .

Among the esters mentioned ab ove, it i s preferred to use ethyl, i sopropyl, myri styl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,

2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myri states such as i sopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myri state, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, i sobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition may al so compri se, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 - C30 and preferably C 12 - C22 fatty acids . It is recalled that the term " sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which compri se at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides .

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylo se and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group compri sing the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 - C30, and preferably C 12 - C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conj ugated or unconj ugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to thi s variant may al so be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myri states, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters .

More particularly, use i s made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates .

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which i s a methylglucose dioleate .

Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid that may al so be mentioned include :

- the products sold under the names F 160, F 140, F l l O, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73 % monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39% diester, tri ester and tetraester, from 52%) monoester and 48%> diester, triester and tetraester, from 45%) monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61 %> diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;

- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B 370 and corresponding to sucrose b ehenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester;

- the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company

Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft^® P SE. c. Fatty acids

The fatty acids may be chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, in which R i s a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical preferably compri sing from 7 to 39 carb on atoms.

Preferably, R i s a C7 - C29 alkyl or C7 - C 29 alkenyl group and better still a C 12-C24 alkyl or C 12-C24 alkenyl group . R may b e sub stituted with one or more hydroxyl group s and/or one or more carboxyl groups .

The fatty acid may be chosen in particular from lauric acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, linoleic acid, myri stic acid and stearic acid.

In order to b e considered as a fatty acid, the fatty acid must not be in soap form, i . e. it must not be salified.

The additional non-silicone solid fatty sub stance(s) are optionally present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 30%, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 20%, and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 0.5 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Silicones

The composition according to the invention may al so comprise one or more silicones .

The silicone(s) that may be present in the composition according to the invention are in particul ar polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i . e . di ssolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emul sions . The polyorganosiloxanes may al so be in the form of oil s, waxes, resins or gums .

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll ' s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones ( 1968), Academic Press.

The silicone(s) may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic silicones compri sing from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.

These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sol d especially under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhone-Poulenc, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone 71 58 by Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhone-Poulenc, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure:

^■ D" - D' D" - D'^■

CH₃ CH, with D" : ^— Si - O— with D' : - Si - O—

CH₃ C₈H₁₇

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)- pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10^"6 m²/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold especially under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp.27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .

Non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5xl0^"6 to 2.5 m²/s at 25°C and preferably lxlO^"5 to 1 m²/s. The viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: - the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil oils sold by Rhone-Poulenc, for instance the oil 70047 V 500 000;

- the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhone- Poulenc;

- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 cSt (centistokes);

- the Viscasil oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhone- Poulenc.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing aminoethyl, aminopropyl and α,ω-silanol groups.

In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C2o)alkylsiloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from lxlO^"5 to 5xl0^"2m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

- the Silbione oils of the 70641 series from Rhone-Poulenc;

- the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from Rhone- Poulenc;

- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

- silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product

PK20;

- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000; - certain oil s of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023 , SF 1 1 54, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of b etween 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethyl siloxane (PDMS) oil s, polyphenylmethyl siloxane (PPMS) oil s, i soparaffins, polyi sobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made more particularly of the following products :

- polydimethyl siloxane gums,

- polydimethyl siloxane/methylvinyl siloxane gums,

- poly [(dimethyl siloxane)/(vinylhydrogenosiloxane)] gums,

- poly [(dimethyl siloxane)/(divinylhydrogenosiloxane)] gums,

- polydimethyl siloxane/diphenyl siloxane gums,

- polydimethyl siloxane/phenylmethyl siloxane gums,

- polydimethyl siloxane/diphenyl siloxane/methylvinyl siloxane gums.

Products that may be used more particularly are the following mixtures :

- mixtures formed from a polydimethyl siloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain (known as dimethiconol according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic polydimethyl siloxane (known as cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning;

- mixtures formed from a polydimethyl siloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, thi s product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, di ssolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; - mixtures of two PDMS s with different vi scosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a vi scosity of 20 m²/s and of an oil SF 96 with a vi scosity of 5 x 10^"6 m²/s . Thi s product preferably compri ses 1 5% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.

The organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units : R2 S 1O2/2 , R₃ Si0₁/₂, RS 1 O3 /2 and S 1 O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group . Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are the ones in which R denotes a C ₁ -C₄ lower alkyl radical, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical .

Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid S S 4230 and S S 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may al so be made of the trimethyl siloxy silicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21 -5034 and X21 -5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and compri sing in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based radical.

Among the organomodifi ed silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes compri sing :

- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally compri sing C6 - C24 alkyl groups, such as the oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated poly(methyllauryl/methyl siloxane) sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning (INCI : Lauryl PEG/PPG- 1 8/ 1 8 methicone), the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oil s Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 by the company Union Carbide, and the (C i 2)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;

- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;

- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name

Silicone Copolymer F755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;

- hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application FR-A-85/ 16334;

- acyloxyalkyl groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

- anioni c group s of the phosphate or carboxylic acid type, for instance in the products described in patent EP 1 86 507 from the company Chi sso Corporation, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701 E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S201 and Abil S255 ;

- hydroxyacylamino group s, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may al so be made of amino silicones.

The term "amino silicone" means any polyamino siloxane, i . e. any polysiloxane compri sing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group .

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:

(a) the compounds corresponding to formula (VI) b elow: (VI)

in which :

T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C i -C₈ alkyl radical, and preferably methyl, or a C i -C₈ alkoxy, preferably methoxy,

a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3 , and preferably 0,

b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ,

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 1 50, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

R¹ i s a monovalent radi cal of formul a -C_qH_{2 q}L in which q i s a number from 2 to 8 and L i s an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups :

-N(R²)-CH₂-CH₂-N(R²)₂ ;

-N(R²)₂; -N⁺(R²)₃ Q^";

-N⁺(R²) (H)₂ Q^";

-N⁺(R²)₂HQ^";

-N(R²)-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺(R²)(H)₂ Q^",

in which R² denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C ₁ -C₂0 alkyl radical, and Q^" represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (VI) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (VII) b elow :

NhL

(VII) in which R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical, preferably CH₃; a C₁-C₄ alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C₃-C₈ and preferably C₃-C₆ alkylene radical; m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.

According to a first possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkyl or hydroxyl radical, A represents a C₃ alkylene radical and m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000 approximately. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones" .

According to a second possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical and A represents a C₃ alkylene radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10⁶. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by Wacker. According to a third possibility, R and R", which are different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical, R' represents a methyl radical and A represents a C₃ alkylene radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal to 1/0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid

WR® 1300 sold by Wacker.

According to a fourth possibility, R and R" represent a hydroxyl radical, R' represents a methyl radical and A is a C4-C8 and preferably C₄ alkylene radical. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10⁶. More particularly, n is between 0 and 1999 and m is between 1 and 2000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 2000.

A product of this type is especially sold under the name DC 28299 by Dow Corning.

Note that the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard; μ styragem columns; eluent THF; flow rate 1 mm/m; 200 μΐ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).

A product corresponding to the definition of formula (VI) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary (7^th edition, 1997) as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (VIII) below: (CH₃)₃ SiO

NH

² (VIII) in which n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (VI) or (VII).

Such compounds are described, for example, in patent application EP-A-0095 238; a compound of formula (VIII) is sold, for example, under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.

(b) the compounds corresponding to formula (IX) below:

in which:

, 3

R^J represents a Ci-Ci₈ monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a Ci-Ci₈ alkyl or C₂-Ci₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

R⁴ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a Ci-Ci₈ alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Ci₈, and for example Ci-C₈, alkylenoxy radical;

Q^" is a halide ion, in particular chloride;

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

Such compounds are described more particularly in patent US- 4 185 087.

A compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.

(c) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (X):

in which:

R-7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C₂-Ci₈ alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

R₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a C₁-C₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-C₈, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

R₈, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Ci₈ alkyl radical, a C₂-Ci₈ alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7;

X^" is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530974.

d) the amino silicones of formula (XI) below:

(C_mH_2m)

(XI)

in which:

- Ri, R₂, R₃ and R₄, which may be identical or different, denote a C₁-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

- R₅ denotes a C₁-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

in which x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.

The silicone(s) that are particularly preferred are polysiloxanes containing amine groups such as the silicones of formula (VII) or the silicones of formula (VIII).

When these compounds are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.

By way of example, it is possible to use the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 929 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant comprising a mixture of products corresponding to formula (XII):

(XII)

in which R⁵ denotes C14-C₂₂ alkenyl and/or alkyl radicals derived from tallow fatty acids, and known under the CTFA name "tallowtrimonium chloride", in combination with a nonionic surfactant of formula:

C₉H₁₉-C₆H₄-(OC₂H₄)₁₀-OH, known under the CTFA name "Nonoxynol 10".

Use may also be made, for example, of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylcetylammonium chloride and a nonionic surfactant of formula: C₁₃H₂₇-(OC₂H₄)₁₂-OH, known under the CTFA name "trideceth-12".

Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q27224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (C) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C₈H₁₇-C₆H₄-(OCH₂CH₂)₄₀OH, known under the CTFA name "octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of formula: Ci₂H₂5-(OCH₂-CH₂)6-OH, known under the CTFA name "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol.

Among all the silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is preferred to choose the silicone(s) from among non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups chosen from amino silicones, and silicones comprising polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, and also mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from amino silicones.

The silicone(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight and better still in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicones.

The composition according to the present invention may al so compri se one or more additional surfactants chosen from anioni c, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants .

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant compri sing, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anioni c groups are preferably chosen from C0₂H, C0₂ ^", S0₃H, S O₃ ^", O S O₃H, O S O3 ^", H₂P0₃ , HPO3 ^", P0₃ ^{2 "}, H₂P0₂, HP0₂, HP0₂ ^", P0₂ ^", POH and PO ^" group s.

As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceri de sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfo succinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyli sethionates and N- acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non- salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group .

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably compri se from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C_{6 - 2}4 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids may be selected from C_{6 - 2}4 alkyl polyglycoside- citrates, C_{6 - 2}4 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C_{6 - 2}4 alkyl poly glycoside- sulfo succinates .

When the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred, according to the invention, to use alkyl sulfate salts and alkyl ether sulfate salts and mixtures thereof.

When they are present, the amount of the anionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 4% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even more preferentially, the composition does not contain any anionic surfactants.

Examples of additional nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are especially chosen from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, a-diols and (Ci_2o)alkylphenols, containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, ethoxy related fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C₆ -24 alkyl)polyglycosides, N-(C₆ -24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C i o C i 4)alkylamine oxi des or N(C _{10 - 14} acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

When they are present, the amount of the additional nonioni c surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0. 1 % to 30% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quaternized, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group i s a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group . Mention may be made in particular of (C 8 - C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C₈ - C2o alkyl)amido(C3 -₈ alkyl)betaines and (C₈-C2o alkyl)amido(C6-C₈ alkyl)sulfobetaines. Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may al so be made of the compounds of respective structures (A l ) and (A2) below :

Ra-CONHCH₂CH₂- N+(R_b)(Rc)(CH₂COO^") (A l ) in which :

Ra represents a C 10 - C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid

Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; and Ra'-CONHCH₂CH₂-N(B)(B') (A2) in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX',

B' represents -(CH₂)z-Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X' represents the group -CH₂-COOH, CH₂-COOZ', -CH₂CH₂- COOH, -CH₂CH₂-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

Y^* represents -COOH, -COOZ' or the group -CH₂-CHOH- S0₃H or -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃Z',

Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine.

Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C₁₇ group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol^® C2M Concentrate.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above that are preferably used are (C_8-2o alkyl)betaines and (C_8-2o alkyl)amido(C6-₈ alkyl)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

When they are present, the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention preferably compri se a cosmetically acceptable medium .

The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with keratin material s, especially keratin fibres such as the hair.

The cosmetically acceptable medium i s formed from water or from a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C 1 -C4 lower alcohol s, such as ethanol, i sopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyol s such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol s; and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention compri ses an amount of water which i s greater than or equal to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably an amount of water greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the amount of water in the composition according to the invention i s less than or equal to 95% and preferentially less than or equal to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The organic solvents may be present in a concentration ranging from 0. 1 % to 40% and better still from 1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the compositions according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 1 1 .

The composition according to the invention may al so compri se one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, chosen from moi sturizers; emollients, plasticizers, permanent or temporary dyes such as natural or synthetic direct dyes (base or coupler) or mixtures thereof, fragrances, peptizers, preserving agents, active agents, ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins or provitamins; pH stabilizers, preserving agents; proteins, sequestrants; solubilizers; reducing agents or antioxidants; oxidizing agents; b asifying agents, acidifying agents, anticorrosion agents and non-thickening cationi c polymers, and mixtures thereof. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional standard additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

These standard additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion. More specifically, it may be either in the form of an oil-in-water emul sion, with the continuous phase being the aqueous phase, or in the form of a water-in-oil emul sion, with the continuous phase being the fatty phase .

The compositions in accordance with the invention may be used for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair, for example as hair conditioners.

Preferably, the compositions of the invention are rinse-out or leave-in hair conditioners.

Thus, another subj ect of the invention consi sts of the use of the cosmetic composition as described above for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the conditioning, of keratin fibres such as the hair.

Another subj ect of the present invention i s a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, such as the hair, which consi sts in applying a composition as described above to the said fibres, and preferably in rinsing it out after an optional leave-on time.

The compositions described above may be used on any type of hair: light or dark hair, natural hair or hair that has undergone a cosmetic treatment such as permanent waving, dyeing, bleaching or relaxing.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be used on wet or dry hair. Preferably, the cosmeti c composition i s applied to clean hair.

Moreover, the leave-on time of the cosmetic composition on the hair may be between a few seconds and 30 minutes, preferably between 10 seconds and 1 5 minutes and even more preferentially between 1 minute and 10 minutes . The application to the hair of the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be performed, for example, using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers .

Preferably, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are rinse-out compositions .

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the application of the composition is followed by drying at room temperature or at a temperature above 40°C .

The drying may be performed immediately after the application or after a leave-on time that may range from 1 minute to 30 minutes .

Preferably, the hair is dried, in addition to using a supply of heat, with a flow of air. Thi s flow of air during drying makes it possible to improve the individualization of the coating.

During drying, a mechanical action may be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing or by running the fingers through the hair.

The drying step of the process of the invention may be performed with a hood, a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a Climazon, etc.

When the drying step i s performed with a hood or a hair dryer, the drying temperature i s between 40 and 1 10° and preferably between 50 and 90° .

When the drying step i s performed with a straightening iron, the drying temperature i s between 1 10 and 220° and preferably between 130 and 200° .

The examples below are given as illustrations of the present invention. EXAMPLES

The examples that follow are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

Example 1 : a. Compositions

A composition 1 according to the invention and a comparative composition 2 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

b . Procedure

Each compari son was performed on a panel of 20 women : 10 women with natural hair and 10 women with sensitized hair. The term " sensitized hair" means hair that has undergone prior chemical or physical treatments . 6 to 10 g of each of these compositions, as a function of the length of the hair, were applied to each half-head. After application, the hair was rinsed, combed and then dried by blow-drying or in the open air. c. Evaluation of the stability and of the cosmetic performance

A panel of experts evaluated the stability and the cosmetic effects afforded by composition 1 according to the invention and comparative composition 2.

• Stability

It was found that composition 1 according to the invention has a creamy, white, glo ssy, uniform appearance . Composition 1 i s stable in particular for 2 months at 45 °C .

Cosmetic performance The cosmetic performance results are collated in the table below :

Locks treated Locks treated

Criteria with with

composition 1 comparative according to the composition 2 invention

Smoothness

Wet +++ +

hair

Suppleness ++ +

Fineness (sensation ++ + of having fine hair)

Speed of drying +++ +

Smoothness +++ +

Sheen +++ +

Hair Silky feel +++ +

dry Fineness ++ +

Lightness +++ +

It was found that, on wet hair, hair treated with cosmetic composition 1 according to the invention i s smoother, more supple and finer than hair treated with comparative cosmetic composition 2. The hair dries more quickly .

Furthermore, it was ob served that, on dry hair, hair treated with cosmetic composition 1 according to the invention i s smoother, shinier, lighter and finer and has a silkier feel than hair treated with comparative cosmetic composition 2.

The panel of experts al so ob served that composition 1 according to the invention makes the hair feel appreciably fine. d. Evaluation of the control of the volume of the hair

The study of the control of the volume was performed on locks of natural and sensitized hair (SA20), weighing 2.7 g each. 1 g of each of the compositions was applied to the wet locks . The locks were then rinsed and dried with a hairdryer, before being suspended in a glove box placed at 75% relative humidity.

The volume of the locks was then evaluated.

Ob servation of the volume of the locks at high humidity shows that composition 1 affords greater volume control than in the case of the locks treated with composition 2; in particular, a decrease in frizziness i s ob served with composition 1 according to the invention.

Example 2 : a. Compositions

Composition 1 according to the invention as describ ed above was compared with a comparative composition 3 whi ch was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwi se indicated.

Compositions 1 3

(invention) (comparative)

Mixture of cetyl alcohol (>95%),

stearyl alcohol and myristyl alcohol 3 .7 0

(Lanette 16 from Cogni s)

Hydroxyethylcellulo se (Natrosol 250

1 1

HHR from Aqualon)

Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride

as an aqueous 25% solution (Dehyquart 0.6 0.6

A OR from Cogni s)

Calcium chloride dihydrate 4 4

Water qs 100% qs 100% b . Procedure

The procedure employed is identical to that described in Example 1 . c. Evaluation of the stability and of the cosmetic performance

A panel of experts evaluated the stability and the cosmetic effects afforded by composition 1 according to the invention and comparative composition 3 .

• Cosmetic performance

The cosmeti c performance results are collated in the table below : Locks treated Locks treated

Criteria with with comparative composition 1 composition 3 according to the

invention

Wet hair Smoothness +++ +

Suppleness ++ +

Fineness ++ +

Speed of drying + +

Hair Smoothness +++ +

dry Sheen + +

Silky feel + +

Fineness ++ +

Lightness + +

It was found that, on wet hair, hair treated with cosmetic composition 1 according to the invention i s smoother, more supple and finer (sensation of having fine hair) than hair treated with comparative cosmetic composition 3 .

Furthermore, it was found that, on dry hair, hair treated with cosmetic composition 1 according to the invention i s smoother and finer than hair treated with comparative composition 3 .

It was al so found that dried hair treated with cosmetic composition 1 according to the invention i s j ust as shiny and has a feel j ust as silky as in the case of comparative composition 3 . Comparative Example 3 : a. Composition

Comparative composition 4 was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwi se indicated. Composition 4

Mixture of cetyl alcohol (>95%),

stearyl alcohol and myristyl alcohol 3 .7

(Lanette 16 from Cogni s)

Hydroxyethylcellulo se (Natrosol 250

1

HHR from Aqualon)

Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride

as an aqueous 25% solution

0

(Dehyquart A OR from Cogni s)

Calcium chloride dihydrate 4

Water qs 100%

It i s found that comparative composition 4 i s unstable on storage.

Comparative Example 4 : a. Composition

Comparative composition 5 was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwi se indicated.

Compositions 5

Mixture of cetyl alcohol (>95 %), stearyl

alcohol and myristyl alcohol (Lanette 16 3 .7

from Cogni s)

Hydroxy ethylcellulo se (Natrosol 250

0

HHR from Aqualon)

Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride

as an aqueous 25% solution (Dehyquart 0.6

A OR from Cogni s)

Calcium chloride dihydrate 4

Water qs 100%

It is found that comparative composition 5 i s fluid and unstablerage.

Example 5

Compositions 6 to 9 applied according to the invention were prepared, the amounts of whi ch are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwi se indicated.

Claims

1 . Cosmetic composition, preferably for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, compri sing :

- one or more water-soluble calcium salts in an amount of greater than or equal to 1 .5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

- one or more fatty alcohol s,

- one or more cationic surfactants,

- one or more nonionic or cationi c thickeners, and

- an amount of water which i s greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

2. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the calcium salt(s) are chosen from calcium iodide, calcium bromide, calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, calcium borogluconate, calcium sulfate, calcium lactate, calcium cyclamate, calcium levulinate, calcium phenol sulfonate, calcium thio sulfate, calcium nitrate and calcium acetate, and mixtures thereof.

3 . Cosmetic composition according to Cl aim 1 or 2, characterized in that the calcium salt(s) are chosen from inorgani c calcium salts, and mixtures thereof.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding cl aims, characterized in that the calcium salt i s calcium chloride, especially calcium chloride dihydrate.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-soluble calcium salt(s) are present in an amount ranging from 1 .5% to 50% by weight, preferentially in an amount ranging from 1 .5% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

8. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium salt(s) are chosen from:

- those that have the general formula (II) below:

^R8 \ ,^R10

N X-

R₉ R_n

(II) in which the radical s R₈ to Rn , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical compri sing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl ; X i s an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C₆)alkyl sulfates, and alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonates;

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline;

- di- or triquaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula

(IV) :

in which R₁₆ denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which i s optionally hydroxyl ated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and optionally branched, Ri 7 i s selected from an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms Or a group (R_{1 6}a) (Rl 7a)(Rl 8a)N+-(CH₂)₃ -, Rl 6a, ^R17a, Rl 8a, Rl 8 ,

Ri 9 , R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X^" is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates;

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of formula (V) below:

in which:

R₂2 is chosen from linear or branched Ci-C₆ alkyl radicals and Ci-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R-23 is chosen from:

O II

- the radical E ₆— C—

- radicals R₂₇, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- a hydrogen atom,

R₂5 is chosen from:

O II

- the radical K₂g— C—

- radicals R₂g, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- a hydrogen atom,

R₂4, R₂6 and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₇-C₂i hydrocarbon-based radicals;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

ri or ti = 0 or 1 , r₂ + n = 2r and t₂ + ti = 2t,

X^" i s a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;

with the provi so that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 1 5 , that when x i s 0, then R₂₃ denotes R₂₇ and that when z i s 0, then R₂₅ denotes R₂g .

9. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from cetyltri methyl ammonium, behenyltri methyl ammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, di stearoylethyl- hydroxyethylmethyl ammonium, methy l(C »- C halky l(C io-C₂o)alky 1- amidoethylimidazolium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, and stearamidopropyldimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic thickener(s) are chosen from fatty acid amides, oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters and nonionic thickening polymers, and mixtures thereof.

1 1 . Cosmetic composition according to Claim 10, characterized in that the nonionic thickening polymer(s) are chosen from associative or non-associative polymers.

12. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 1 , characterized in that the thickening polymer(s) are chosen from non-associative polymers, and in particular polysaccharides .

13 . Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 10 to 12, characterized in that the nonionic thickening polymer(s) are chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulo se and hydroxypropylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claim s 1 to 9, characterized in that the cationic thickener(s) are chosen from associative or non-associative polymers.

1 5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding cl aims, characterized in that it al so compri ses one or more silicones, preferably amino silicones .

16. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition al so compri ses one or more fatty sub stances other than fatty alcohol s, chosen from fatty esters other than triglycerides, fatty acids and non- silicone animal, plant or synthetic oil s other than the abovementioned esters .

17. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, characterized in that an effective amount of a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims i s applied to the said fibres, and i s optionally rinsed out after an optional leave-on time .

1 8. Use of the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 16 for the conditioning of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.