WO2011073563A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant, a liquid fatty alcohol and an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol ether and cosmetic treatment method - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant, a liquid fatty alcohol and an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol ether and cosmetic treatment method Download PDF

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WO2011073563A2
WO2011073563A2 PCT/FR2010/052704 FR2010052704W WO2011073563A2 WO 2011073563 A2 WO2011073563 A2 WO 2011073563A2 FR 2010052704 W FR2010052704 W FR 2010052704W WO 2011073563 A2 WO2011073563 A2 WO 2011073563A2
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composition according
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composition
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weight
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PCT/FR2010/052704
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WO2011073563A3 (en
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Estelle Mathonneau
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L'oreal
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Priority to EP10805801.7A priority Critical patent/EP2512414B1/en
Priority to US13/515,896 priority patent/US20120247499A1/en
Publication of WO2011073563A2 publication Critical patent/WO2011073563A2/en
Publication of WO2011073563A3 publication Critical patent/WO2011073563A3/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for washing and conditioning keratinous substances, in particular keratinous fibers, comprising an anionic surfactant, a liquid fatty alcohol and a liquid fatty alcohol, and a composition for washing and conditioning keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers, comprising an anionic surfactant, a liquid fatty alcohol and an oxyethylenated polyol ether, the use of said composition for washing and conditioning keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers, and a process for implementing said composition.
  • a washing base is generally associated with a conditioning agent which may be a cationic polymer, an amphoteric polymer, a silicone, a synthetic or natural oil, a fatty substance or a mixture thereof.
  • a conditioning agent which may be a cationic polymer, an amphoteric polymer, a silicone, a synthetic or natural oil, a fatty substance or a mixture thereof.
  • Insoluble conditioning agents in particular liquid fatty alcohols, are known and used in shampoo compositions as in particular in JP2002-20791, JP9- 30938, US2009 / 005449 and US2009 / 005460.
  • compositions are not thickened and / or stable and / or do not exhibit high level of cosmetic performance in terms of disentangling and smoothing, and maintaining the level of the qualities of use.
  • fatty alcohol ether and of particular oxyethylenated polyol in compositions comprising an anionic surfactant and a liquid fatty alcohol makes it possible to overcome the disadvantages indicated above, and thus to obtain a stable composition of homogeneous and aesthetic appearance. Moreover, the cosmetic properties and in particular the smoothness, softness, suppleness and shine are improved. In the case of curly and / or frizzy hair, there is a decrease in volume allowing better control of the hair.
  • compositions according to the invention also provide color protection to washes of artificially colored hair.
  • the subject of the invention is therefore a composition, in particular for washing and conditioning keratinous substances, in particular keratinous fibers, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more anionic surfactants, one or more liquid fatty alcohols, and one or more ethers. of fatty alcohol and oxyethylenated polyol of formula (I) below:
  • Ri (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OR 2 denotes a linear or branched C10-C30 alkyl group, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkenyl group, these groups being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups,
  • F3 ⁇ 4 is chosen from hydrogen, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • n is greater than or equal to 40.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of said composition for washing and conditioning keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers, and more particularly hair.
  • the subject of the invention is also a process for washing and conditioning keratin fibers using the composition according to the invention.
  • an entity is described as being "anionic" when it possesses at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the compositions of the invention ( medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
  • composition having a viscosity of at least 25 cps and preferably at least 50 cp at the temperature of 25 ° C and with a shear rate of 1 s -1 . These viscosities are measurable with a viscometer or rheometer cone-plane geometry.
  • the anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition are chosen especially from salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or salts.
  • alkaline earth metals for example magnesium
  • alkyl sulphates alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alphaolefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates and acylglutamates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • Ce-24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • anionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention is that of acyl lactylates, the acyl group of which contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts mention may also be made of the alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts, as well as the polyoxyalkylenated C6-24 alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, the C6-C24 alkyl (C6-aryl) acids. 24) polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24) alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
  • Alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and alkyl ether carboxylates, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, amine or aminoalcohol.
  • the anionic surfactant (s) are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 3 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • "Liquid fatty alcohols” are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure, and insoluble in water (i.e., have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight), and are soluble, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or petrolatum oil ) at least 1% by weight.
  • Liquid fatty alcohols in particular those containing C10-C30, have branched carbon chains or possess one or more (preferably 1 to 3) unsaturations.
  • the liquid fatty alcohols according to the invention are preferably branched and / or unsaturated, and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols of the invention are non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated.
  • Fatty alcohols preferably have the structure R-OH, wherein R is preferably an alkyl group branched Ci2-C2 4 alkenyl or C2-Ci2 4. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group.
  • oleic alcohol By way of example, mention may be made of oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyl octanol and 2-octyl alcohol.
  • the liquid fatty alcohol of the invention is a branched saturated fatty alcohol. Even more preferentially, the liquid fatty alcohol of the invention is 2-octyl-1-decanolol.
  • the fatty alcohols can be mixtures, which means that in a commercial product can coexist several species including different chain lengths, in the form of a mixture.
  • the liquid fatty alcohol (s) of the invention are generally present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the ethoxylated fatty alcohol and polyol ethers preferably have the following formula (I):
  • Ri (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OR 2 R ⁇ denotes a linear or branched C10-C30 alkyl group, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkenyl group, these groups being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • F3 ⁇ 4 is chosen from hydrogen, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • n is greater than or equal to 40, preferably 40 to 80.
  • R2 is different from a hydrogen atom.
  • R1 and R2 denote a linear or branched and preferably linear alkyl group optionally comprising a hydroxyl group.
  • An ether according to the invention which is particularly preferred is the compound called Ceteareth-60-Myristylglycol according to the INCI name and in particular proposed under the trade name of ELFACOS GT282S by AKZO NOBEL.
  • the ethoxylated polyol fatty alcohol ether (s) are generally present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may also comprise at least one nonionic surfactant different from the ethers of the invention of formula (I) and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. -178). They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl (C12) phenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of groups ethylene oxide or propylene oxide ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 30.
  • the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1
  • C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosides and more particularly C6-alkyl polyglycosides, are preferably used, and the amphoteric surfactants which can be used in the present invention can be used in particular.
  • derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate or sulphate group, Phosphates or phosphonates include, for example, C 8 -C 20 alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, C 8 -C 20 alkylamido (C 2-8 alkyl) betaines or C 8 -C 20 alkylamido (alkyl) C2-8) sulfobetaines.
  • amine derivatives include the products sold under the name Miranol ®, as described in US patents 2,528,378 and US 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxy-glycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate of respective structures (1) and (2):
  • R a represents an alkyl group derived from a R a -COOH acid present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
  • R b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X ' represents the group -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH or a hydrogen atom
  • Y ' represents -COOH or the group -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H
  • R a ' represents an alkyl group of an R a ' -COOH acid present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, a saturated or unsaturated C7-C23 alkyl group, in particular C17 and its iso form unsaturated C 7 group .
  • Examples include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M concentrate.
  • amphoteric surfactants mentioned above use is preferably made of C 8 -C 20 alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 2-8 alkyl) betaines, alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
  • the total amount of surfactants is preferably between 4 and 50% by weight, more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may in particular further comprise one or more cationic polymers.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in the patent application EP-A-0. 337,354 and in the French patent applications FR-A-2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,661, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.
  • cationic polymer denotes any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups.
  • the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
  • the cationic polymers used generally have an average molecular weight in number or in weight of between about 500 and 5 ⁇ 10 6 , and preferably between 10 3 and 3 ⁇ 10 6 approximately.
  • cationic polymers mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers. These are known products.
  • Polymers of the polyamine, polyamidoamide or quaternary polyammonium type, usable in accordance with the present invention, which may be mentioned in particular, are those described in French Pat. Nos. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among these polymers, mention may be made of:
  • R3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
  • A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R4, R5, RQ identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R 1 and R 2 which are identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of the family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, acrylamide diacetones, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4). , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
  • copolymers of the family (1) mention may be made of: the copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules,
  • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
  • the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP, and the polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl (Ci -C 4) trialkyl (Ci-C 4) salts; ) Ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound with olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of
  • a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer for example 20/80 by weight
  • a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA.
  • a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride and especially comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester.
  • These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.
  • cationic polysaccharides in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium.
  • guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used.
  • a salt eg chloride
  • Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by RHODIA.
  • polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers.
  • Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361;
  • polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halogenide, epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polymaoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkyl
  • polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,583,363.
  • adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.
  • the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1, 4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1, 8: 1.
  • Such polymers are especially described in US Patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
  • Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57” by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name “PD 170” or “Delsette 101” by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.
  • cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units of formula (I) or (II):
  • R 10 formulas wherein k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being 1; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R10 and
  • R 1 independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C1 -C4) or Ri o and Ru may jointly designate with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl;
  • Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulphite, sulfate, phosphate
  • R 1 and R 1 independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • R13, R14, R15 and R16 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or R13, R14,
  • R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D group;
  • A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
  • A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; furthermore, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a (CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- group in which D denotes:
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide
  • These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.
  • Polymers of this type are described in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614 and 2,454,547. , 3,206,462, 2,261 .002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027 .020. It is more particularly possible to use polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula:
  • a particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which R ⁇
  • r and s which are identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • q is 0 or an integer from 1 to 34
  • X denotes an anion such as a halogenide
  • A denotes a radical of a dihalide or is preferably -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
  • Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.
  • cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, may be preferably used.
  • the cationic polymer or polymers are generally present at concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.05% to 10% and more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one silicone.
  • This silicone can be linear, branched or cyclic, volatile or not, organomodified or not.
  • cosmetically acceptable medium is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials, especially keratinous fibers such as hair, but also of pleasant smell, appearance and feel.
  • the medium is preferably aqueous.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium consists of water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent chosen from lower C 1 -C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol and tert-butanol. or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.
  • organic solvent chosen from lower C 1 -C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol and tert-butanol. or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.
  • the composition comprises from 70 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the compositions according to the invention is generally between 2 and 1 1, preferably between 3 and 10 and more preferably between 4 and 8.
  • composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise additives chosen from anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, or amphoteric polymers, associative or non-associative polymeric thickeners, non-polymeric thickeners, pearlescent agents, opacifiers, dyes or pigments, perfumes, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, waxes, vitamins, UV filters, anti-radical agents, anti-dandruff, preservatives, pH stabilizers, solvents, and mixtures thereof.
  • additives chosen from anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, or amphoteric polymers, associative or non-associative polymeric thickeners, non-polymeric thickeners, pearlescent agents, opacifiers, dyes or pigments, perfumes, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, waxes, vitamins, UV filters, anti-radical agents, anti-dandruff, preservatives, pH stabilizers, solvents, and mixtures thereof.
  • additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions may be packaged in various forms, in particular in flasks, pump-bottles or in containers aerosols to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam.
  • the compositions may also impregnate applicators, including gloves or wipes.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for washing keratinous substances, which consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as described above, to the keratin materials, to rinsing for example with water after a possible time. deposit.
  • the following shampoo composition was prepared:
  • Cocoamidopropyl betaine (DEHYTON PK)
  • Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18)
  • composition according to the invention is thickened and has a homogeneous and smooth appearance, unlike a comparative composition that does not include the ELFACOS GT 282S which is completely fluid.
  • Hair treated with the composition of Example 1 is smooth and easy to disentangle.
  • MIRANOL Disodium cocoamphodiacetate
  • Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18)
  • Citric acid q.s. pH 6.5 pH 6.3
  • MIRANOL Disodium cocoamphodiacetate
  • Oleic alcohol 1 5 g
  • Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18)
  • EXAMPLE 5 prepared the following shampoo composition:
  • MIRANOL Disodium cocoamphodiacetate
  • Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18)
  • MIRANOL Disodium cocoamphodiacetate
  • Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18)
  • Citric acid q.s. pH 6.5 pH 6.3

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for washing and conditioning keratin material, comprising the following constituents in a cosmetically acceptable medium, namely: one or more anionic surfactants; one or more liquid fatty alcohols; and one or more ethers of fatty alcohol and oxyethylenated polyol, having formula (I). The invention also relates to the use of the aforementioned composition for washing and conditioning keratin material and to a method for washing and conditioning keratin material using said composition.

Description

COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE COMPRENANT UN  COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A
TENSIOACTIF, UN ALCOOL GRAS LIQUIDE ET UN ETHER D'ALCOOL GRAS OXYETHYLENE ET PROCÉDÉ DE TRAITEMENT COSMÉTIQUE La présente invention concerne une composition de lavage et de conditionnement des matières kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques, comprenant un tensioactif anionique, un alcool gras liquide et un éther de polyol oxyéthyléné, l'utilisation de ladite composition pour le lavage et le conditionnement des matières kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques, ainsi qu'un procédé de mise en œuvre de ladite composition.  The present invention relates to a composition for washing and conditioning keratinous substances, in particular keratinous fibers, comprising an anionic surfactant, a liquid fatty alcohol and a liquid fatty alcohol, and a composition for washing and conditioning keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers, comprising an anionic surfactant, a liquid fatty alcohol and an oxyethylenated polyol ether, the use of said composition for washing and conditioning keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers, and a process for implementing said composition.
Dans le domaine des shampoings conditionneurs, on associe généralement une base lavante et un agent de conditionnement qui peut être un polymère cationique, un polymère amphotère, une silicone, une huile synthétique ou naturelle, un corps gras ou un de leurs mélanges. Ces agents de conditionnement sont utilisés pour améliorer le démêlage et la douceur des cheveux mouillés et séchés mais peuvent avoir tendance à alourdir la chevelure et à la ternir. In the field of conditioning shampoos, a washing base is generally associated with a conditioning agent which may be a cationic polymer, an amphoteric polymer, a silicone, a synthetic or natural oil, a fatty substance or a mixture thereof. These conditioning agents are used to improve the disentangling and softness of wet and dried hair but may tend to weigh down the hair and tarnish it.
L'utilisation d'agents conditionneurs insolubles est fortement limitée :  The use of insoluble conditioners is severely limited:
- d'une part, du fait des difficultés de stabilisation dans des compositions détergentes, si on veut maintenir le niveau des qualités d'usage (stabilité, pouvoir moussant, démarrage de mousse),  on the one hand, because of the difficulties of stabilization in detergent compositions, if one wants to maintain the level of the qualities of use (stability, foaming power, foam starting),
- d'autre part, du fait des défauts cosmétiques en termes d'alourdissement, de charge et de regraissage liés à des dispersions grossières ou hétérogènes dans ces mêmes compositions détergentes.  - On the other hand, because of cosmetic defects in terms of weighting, loading and relubrication related to coarse or heterogeneous dispersions in these same detergent compositions.
Les agents de conditionnement insolubles, en particulier les alcools gras liquides, sont connus et utilisés dans les compositions de shampooings comme notamment dans les documents JP2002-20791 , JP9- 30938, US2009/005449 et US2009/005460. Insoluble conditioning agents, in particular liquid fatty alcohols, are known and used in shampoo compositions as in particular in JP2002-20791, JP9- 30938, US2009 / 005449 and US2009 / 005460.
Cependant, ces compositions ne sont pas épaissies et/ou stables et/ou ne présentent pas des performances cosmétiques de haut niveau en termes de démêlage et de lissage, et en maintenant le niveau des qualités d'usage.  However, these compositions are not thickened and / or stable and / or do not exhibit high level of cosmetic performance in terms of disentangling and smoothing, and maintaining the level of the qualities of use.
En effet, on recherche des produits épaissis que l'on peut doser et prendre aisément dans la main. Pour ce faire, ces produits doivent présenter une certaine consistance ou viscosité. En effet, un produit liquide est beaucoup plus difficile à doser et s'écoule facilement entre les doigts. Indeed, it seeks thickened products that can be metered and take easily in the hand. To do this, these products must have a certain consistency or viscosity. Indeed, a liquid product is much more difficult to dose and flows easily between the fingers.
Pour épaissir les compositions lavantes, on a déjà utilisé des polymères naturels tels que les celluloses. Malheureusement, ces épaississants donnent des compositions instables et/ou qui ne sont pas lisses et homogènes. De plus, ces épaississants présentent l'inconvénient de diminuer la qualité de la mousse et les performances cosmétiques des shampooings, notamment en rendant les cheveux plus chargés et plus rêches. La mousse des compositions épaissies n'est généralement pas suffisamment douce, elle ne se développe pas facilement que ce soit en vitesse ou en abondance.  To thicken the washing compositions, natural polymers such as celluloses have already been used. Unfortunately, these thickeners give unstable compositions and / or which are not smooth and homogeneous. In addition, these thickeners have the disadvantage of reducing the quality of the foam and the cosmetic performance of shampoos, especially by making the hair more loaded and more rough. The foam of the thickened compositions is generally not soft enough, it does not grow easily either in speed or in abundance.
Ainsi, il subsiste le besoin d'un système épaississant permettant d'épaissir, de manière convenable une composition lavante comprenant un alcool gras liquide sans influer sur les propriétés cosmétiques et moussantes desdites compositions ou en les améliorant. Thus, there remains the need for a thickening system for suitably thickening a washing composition comprising a liquid fatty alcohol without affecting the cosmetic properties and foaming of said compositions or improving them.
La demanderesse a maintenant découvert que l'utilisation de d'éther d'alcool gras et de polyol oxyéthyléné particulier dans des compositions comprenant un tensioactif anionique et un alcool gras liquide permettait de surmonter les inconvénients indiqués ci-dessus, et d'obtenir ainsi une composition stable d'aspect homogène et esthétique. Par ailleurs, les propriétés cosmétiques et en particulier le lissage, la douceur, la souplesse et la brillance sont améliorés. Dans le cas des cheveux frisés et/ou crépus, on observe une diminution du volume permettant un meilleur contrôle de la chevelure. The applicant has now discovered that the use of fatty alcohol ether and of particular oxyethylenated polyol in compositions comprising an anionic surfactant and a liquid fatty alcohol makes it possible to overcome the disadvantages indicated above, and thus to obtain a stable composition of homogeneous and aesthetic appearance. Moreover, the cosmetic properties and in particular the smoothness, softness, suppleness and shine are improved. In the case of curly and / or frizzy hair, there is a decrease in volume allowing better control of the hair.
Les compositions selon l'invention apportent également une protection de la couleur aux lavages des cheveux artificiellement colorés. L'invention a donc pour objet une composition notamment de lavage et de conditionnement des matières kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques, comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, un ou plusieurs tensioactifs anioniques, un ou plusieurs alcools gras liquides, et un ou plusieurs éthers d'alcool gras et de polyol oxyéthyléné de formule (I) suivante : The compositions according to the invention also provide color protection to washes of artificially colored hair. The subject of the invention is therefore a composition, in particular for washing and conditioning keratinous substances, in particular keratinous fibers, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more anionic surfactants, one or more liquid fatty alcohols, and one or more ethers. of fatty alcohol and oxyethylenated polyol of formula (I) below:
Ri (OCH2CH2)n OR2 désigne un groupement alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30, un groupement alkényle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30, ces groupements étant éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyles, Ri (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OR 2 denotes a linear or branched C10-C30 alkyl group, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkenyl group, these groups being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups,
F¾ est choisi parmi l'atome d'hydrogène, un groupement alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30 éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, un groupement alkényle linéaire ou ramifié en C10- C30, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyles. n est supérieur ou égal à 40. Un autre objet de l'invention est l'utilisation de ladite composition pour le lavage et le conditionnement des matières kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques, et plus particulièrement des cheveux.  F¾ is chosen from hydrogen, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. n is greater than or equal to 40. Another object of the invention is the use of said composition for washing and conditioning keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers, and more particularly hair.
L'invention a encore pour objet un procédé de lavage et de conditionnement des fibres kératiniques mettant en œuvre la composition selon l'invention. The subject of the invention is also a process for washing and conditioning keratin fibers using the composition according to the invention.
D'autres objets, caractéristiques, aspects et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront encore plus clairement à la lecture de la description et des divers exemples qui suivent. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the various examples which follow.
Dans la présente demande, on qualifie une entité comme étant "anionique" lorsqu'elle possède au moins une charge négative permanente ou lorsqu'elle peut être ionisée en une entité chargée négativement, dans les conditions d'utilisation des compositions de l'invention (milieu, pH par exemple) et ne comprenant pas de charge cationique. In the present application, an entity is described as being "anionic" when it possesses at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the compositions of the invention ( medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
On qualifie une entité comme étant "non ionique" lorsqu'elle n'est ni cationique ni anionique au sens de la présente demande, en particulier elle ne comporte aucun groupe cationique ou anionique au sens de la présente demande.  An entity is described as being "nonionic" when it is neither cationic nor anionic within the meaning of the present application, in particular it does not include any cationic or anionic group within the meaning of the present application.
Par "cosmétiquement acceptable" ou "physiologiquement acceptable", on entend qui est compatible avec l'application sur le corps d'un être vivant, en particulier le corps humain, et notamment son cuir chevelu et ses cheveux. Par composition épaissie on entend au sens de la présente invention une composition présentant une viscosité d'au moins 25 cps et de préférence d'au moins 50 cp à la température de 25°C et avec un taux de cisaillement de 1 s"1. Ces viscosités sont mesurables avec un viscosimètre ou un rhéomètre à géométrie cone-plan. Les tensioactifs anioniques pouvant être utilisés dans la composition sont notamment choisis parmi les sels, en particulier les sels de métaux alcalins tels que les sels de sodium, les sels d'ammonium, les sels d'amines, les sels d'aminoalcools ou les sels de métaux alcalino-terreux, par exemple, de magnésium, des types suivants : les alkylsulfates, les alkyléthersulfates, les alkylamidoéthersulfates, les alkylarylpolyéthersulfates, les monoglycéride- sulfates ; les alkylsulfonates, les alkylamidesulfonates, les alkylarylsulfonates, les alphaoléfine-sulfonates, les paraffine-sulfonates, les alkylsulfosuccinates, les alkyléthersulfosuccinates, les alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, les alkylsulfo- acétates, les acylsarcosinates et les acylglutamates, les groupes alkyle et acyle de tous ces composés comportant de 6 à 24 atomes de carbone et le groupe aryle désignant de préférence un groupe phényle ou benzyle. On peut également utiliser les monoesters d'alkyle en Ce-24 et d'acides polyglycoside-polycarboxyliques tels que les glucoside-citrates d'alkyle, les polyglycoside-tartrates d'alkyle et les polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates d'alkyle, les alkylsulfosuccinamates, les acyliséthionates et les N-acyltaurates, le groupe alkyle ou acyle de tous ces composés comportant de 12 à 20 atomes de carbone. By "cosmetically acceptable" or "physiologically acceptable" is meant that is compatible with the application on the body of a living being, in particular the human body, including its scalp and hair. By thickened composition is meant in the sense of the present invention a composition having a viscosity of at least 25 cps and preferably at least 50 cp at the temperature of 25 ° C and with a shear rate of 1 s -1 . These viscosities are measurable with a viscometer or rheometer cone-plane geometry. The anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition are chosen especially from salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or salts. alkaline earth metals, for example magnesium, of the following types: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alphaolefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates and acylglutamates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. Ce-24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
Un autre groupe d'agents tensioactifs anioniques utilisables dans les compositions de la présente invention est celui des acyl-lactylates dont le groupe acyle comporte de 8 à 20 atomes de carbone. Another group of anionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention is that of acyl lactylates, the acyl group of which contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
En outre, on peut encore citer les acides alkyl-D-galactoside-uroniques et leurs sels ainsi que les acides (alkyl en C6-24)éther-carboxyliques poly- oxyalkylénés, les acides (alkyl en C6-24)(aryl en C6-24)éther-carboxyliques poly- oxyalkylénés, les acides (alkyl en C6-24)amidoéther-carboxyliques poly- oxyalkylénés et leurs sels, en particulier ceux comportant de 2 à 50 motifs oxyde d'éthylène, et leurs mélanges. In addition, mention may also be made of the alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts, as well as the polyoxyalkylenated C6-24 alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, the C6-C24 alkyl (C6-aryl) acids. 24) polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24) alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
On utilise de préférence les alkylsulfates, les alkyléthersulfates et les alkyléthercarboxylates, et leurs mélanges, en particulier sous forme de sels de métaux alcalins ou alcalino-terreux, d'ammonium, d'amine ou d'aminoalcool. Alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and alkyl ether carboxylates, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, amine or aminoalcohol.
Le ou les tensioactifs anioniques sont de préférence présents en une quantité totale allant de 3 à 50 % en poids, mieux encore de 4 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les« alcools gras liquides » sont liquides à température ambiante (25°C) et à pression atmosphérique, et insolubles dans l'eau (c'est-à-dire, présentent une solubilité dans l'eau inférieure à 1 % en poids et de préférence inférieure à 0,5 % en poids), et sont solubles, dans les mêmes conditions de température et de pression, dans au moins un solvant organique (par exemple l'éthanol, le chloroforme, le benzène ou l'huile de vaseline) à au moins 1 % en poids. The anionic surfactant (s) are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 3 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. "Liquid fatty alcohols" are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure, and insoluble in water (i.e., have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight), and are soluble, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or petrolatum oil ) at least 1% by weight.
Les alcools gras liquides, en particulier ceux en C10-C30 présentent des chaînes carbonées ramifiées ou possèdent une ou plusieurs (de préférence 1 à 3) insaturations. Liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those containing C10-C30, have branched carbon chains or possess one or more (preferably 1 to 3) unsaturations.
Les alcools gras liquides selon l'invention sont de préférence ramifiés et/ou insaturés, et comportent de 12 à 40 atomes de carbone. Les alcools gras de l'invention sont non oxyalkylénés et non glycérolés. The liquid fatty alcohols according to the invention are preferably branched and / or unsaturated, and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols of the invention are non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated.
Les alcools gras présentent de préférence la structure R-OH, dans laquelle R désigne de préférence un groupement alkyle ramifié en Ci2-C24 ou alkényle en Ci2-C24. R peut être substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxy. De préférence, R ne contient pas de groupement hydroxy. Fatty alcohols preferably have the structure R-OH, wherein R is preferably an alkyl group branched Ci2-C2 4 alkenyl or C2-Ci2 4. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group.
A titre d'exemple on peut citer l'alcool oléique, l'alcool linoléique, l'alcool linolénique, l'alcool isocétylique, l'alcool isostéarylique, le 2-octyl-1 -dodécanol, le 2-butyl octanol, le 2-hexyl-1 -décanol, le 2-decyl-1 -tétradécanol, le 2- tétradécyl-1 -cétanol et leur(s) mélange(s). De préférence l'alcool gras liquide de l'invention est un alcool gras saturé ramifié. Encore plus préférentiellement l'alcool gras liquide de l'invention est le 2-octyl 1 -dodécanol. Les alcools gras peuvent être des mélanges, ce qui signifie que dans un produit commercial peuvent coexister plusieurs espèces notamment de longueurs de chaînes différentes, sous forme d'un mélange.  By way of example, mention may be made of oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyl octanol and 2-octyl alcohol. 1-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-ketanol and their mixture (s). Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol of the invention is a branched saturated fatty alcohol. Even more preferentially, the liquid fatty alcohol of the invention is 2-octyl-1-decanolol. The fatty alcohols can be mixtures, which means that in a commercial product can coexist several species including different chain lengths, in the form of a mixture.
Le ou les alcools gras liquides de l'invention sont généralement présents en une quantité allant de 0,01 à 10 % en poids, préférentiellement de 0,1 à 5% en poids et, mieux encore, de 0,5 à 3% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The liquid fatty alcohol (s) of the invention are generally present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les éthers d'alcool gras et de polyol oxyéthyléné présentent de préférence la formule (I) suivante : The ethoxylated fatty alcohol and polyol ethers preferably have the following formula (I):
Ri (OCH2CH2)n OR2 R^ désigne un groupement alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30, un groupement alkényle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30, ces groupements étant éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyles. Ri (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OR 2 R ^ denotes a linear or branched C10-C30 alkyl group, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkenyl group, these groups being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
F¾ est choisi parmi l'atome d'hydrogène, un groupement alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30 éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, un groupement alkényle linéaire ou ramifié en C10- C30, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyles. n est supérieur ou égal à 40, va de préférence de 40 à 80. Dans une première variante préférée, R2 est différent d'un atome d'hydrogène. Dans une seconde variante préférée, R1 et R2 désignent un groupement alkyle linéaire ou ramifiée et de préférence linéaire comportant éventuellement un groupement hydroxyle. Un éther selon l'invention particulièrement préféré est le composé dénommé Ceteareth-60-Myristylglycol selon la dénomination INCI et notamment proposé sous le nom commercial d'ELFACOS GT282S par AKZO NOBEL.  F¾ is chosen from hydrogen, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. n is greater than or equal to 40, preferably 40 to 80. In a first preferred variant, R2 is different from a hydrogen atom. In a second preferred variant, R1 and R2 denote a linear or branched and preferably linear alkyl group optionally comprising a hydroxyl group. An ether according to the invention which is particularly preferred is the compound called Ceteareth-60-Myristylglycol according to the INCI name and in particular proposed under the trade name of ELFACOS GT282S by AKZO NOBEL.
Le ou les éthers d'alcools gras et de polyol oxyéthyléné sont généralement présents en une quantité allant de 0,01 à 10 % en poids, préférentiellement de 0,1 à 5% en poids et, mieux encore, de 0,5 à 3% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.  The ethoxylated polyol fatty alcohol ether (s) are generally present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition peut également comprendre en outre au moins un tensioactif non ionique différent des éthers de l'invention de formule (I) et/ou au moins un tensioactif amphotère. The composition may also comprise at least one nonionic surfactant different from the ethers of the invention of formula (I) and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant.
Les tensioactifs non-ioniques utilisables dans les compositions de la présente invention sont des composés bien connus en soi (voir notamment à cet égard "Handbook of Surfactants" par M.R. PORTER, éditions Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp 1 16-178). Ils sont choisis notamment parmi les alcools, les alpha-diols, les alkyl(Ci_2o)phénols ou les acides gras polyéthoxylés, polypropoxylés ou polyglycérolés, ayant une chaîne grasse comportant, par exemple, de 8 à 18 atomes de carbone, le nombre de groupements oxyde d'éthylène ou oxyde de propylène pouvant aller notamment de 2 à 50 et le nombre de groupements glycérol pouvant aller notamment de 2 à 30. On peut également citer les condensais d'oxyde d'éthylène et d'oxyde de propylène sur des alcools gras ; les amides gras polyéthoxylés ayant de préférence de 2 à 30 motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène, les amides gras polyglycérolés comportant en moyenne de 1 à 5 groupements glycérol et en particulier de 1 ,5 à 4, les esters d'acides gras du sorbitane éthoxylés ayant de 2 à 30 motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène, les esters d'acides gras du saccharose, les esters d'acides gras du polyéthylèneglycol, les (alkyl en C6-24)polyglycosides, les dérivés de N- (alkyl en C6-24)glucamine, les oxydes d'amines tels que les oxydes d'(alkyl en Cio-i4)amines ou les oxydes de N-(acyl en Cio-i4)-aminopropylmorpholine. The nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. -178). They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl (C₁2) phenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of groups ethylene oxide or propylene oxide ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, the fatty acid esters of sorbitan ethoxylates having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, C6-24 alkyl polyglycosides, N- (lower alkyl) derivatives, C6-24) glucamine, amine oxides such as the oxides of alkyl (Cio-i 4) amines or oxides of N- (acyl Cio-i 4) -aminopropylmorpholine.
Parmi les tensioactifs non-ioniques cités ci-dessus, on utilise de préférence les (alkyl en C6-24)polyglycosides, et plus particulièrement les (alkyl en Cs-isjpolyglycosides. Les agents tensioactifs amphotères, utilisables dans la présente invention, peuvent être notamment des dérivés d'amines aliphatiques secondaires ou tertiaires, dans lesquels le groupe aliphatique est une chaîne linéaire ou ramifiée comportant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone et contenant au moins un groupe anionique tel que, par exemple, un groupe carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate ou phosphonate. On peut citer en particulier les alkyl(C8-2o)bétaïnes, les sulfobétaïnes, les (alkyl en C8-2o)amido(alkyl en C2- 8)bétaïnes ou les (alkyl en C8-2o)amido(alkyl en C2-8)sulfobétaïnes. Among the nonionic surfactants mentioned above, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosides, and more particularly C6-alkyl polyglycosides, are preferably used, and the amphoteric surfactants which can be used in the present invention can be used in particular. derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate or sulphate group, Phosphates or phosphonates include, for example, C 8 -C 20 alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, C 8 -C 20 alkylamido (C 2-8 alkyl) betaines or C 8 -C 20 alkylamido (alkyl) C2-8) sulfobetaines.
Parmi les dérivés d'amines, on peut citer les produits commercialisés sous la dénomination MIRANOL®, tels que décrits dans les brevets US 2 528 378 et US 2 781 354 et classés dans le dictionnaire CTFA, 3ème édition, 1982, sous les dénominations Amphocarboxy-glycinate et Amphocarboxypropionate de structures respectives (1 ) et (2) : Among the amine derivatives include the products sold under the name Miranol ®, as described in US patents 2,528,378 and US 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxy-glycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate of respective structures (1) and (2):
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO") (1 ) dans laquelle : R a -CONHCH2CH2-N (R b) (R c) (CH 2 COO ") (1) wherein:
Ra représente un groupe alkyle dérivé d'un acide Ra-COOH présent dans l'huile de coprah hydrolysée, un groupe heptyle, nonyle ou undécyle, R a represents an alkyl group derived from a R a -COOH acid present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
Rb représente un groupe bêta-hydroxyéthyle, et R b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and
Rc représente un groupe carboxyméthyle ; R c represents a carboxymethyl group;
et  and
Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(C) (2) dans laquelle : R a '-CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (B) (C) (2) in which:
B représente -CH2CH2OX', B represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX ',
C représente -(CH2)Z-Y\ avec z = 1 ou 2, X' représente le groupe -CH2CH2-COOH ou un atome d'hydrogène,C represents - (CH 2 ) Z -Y \ with z = 1 or 2, X 'represents the group -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH or a hydrogen atom,
Y' représente -COOH ou le groupe -CH2-CHOH-SO3H, Y 'represents -COOH or the group -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H,
Ra' représente un groupe alkyle d'un acide Ra'-COOH présent dans l'huile de coprah ou dans l'huile de lin hydrolysée, un groupe alkyle saturé ou insaturé en C7-C23, notamment en C17 et sa forme iso, un groupe en Ci7 insaturé. R a 'represents an alkyl group of an R a ' -COOH acid present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, a saturated or unsaturated C7-C23 alkyl group, in particular C17 and its iso form unsaturated C 7 group .
Ces composés sont classés dans le dictionnaire CTFA, 5eme édition, 1993, sous les dénominations cocoamphodiacétate de disodium, lauroampho- diacétate de disodium, caprylamphodiacétate de disodium, capryloampho- diacétate de disodium, cocoamphodipropionate de disodium, lauroampho- dipropionate de disodium, caprylamphodipropionate de disodium, caprylo- amphodipropionate de disodium, acide lauroamphodipropionique, acide coco- amphodipropionique. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5 th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate de disodium, lauroampho- diacétate de disodium, caprylamphodiacétate de disodium, capryloampho- diacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, caprylo- disodium amphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, coco-amphodipropionic acid.
A titre d'exemple, on peut citer le cocoamphodiacétate commercialisé par la société RHODIA sous la dénomination commerciale MIRANOL® C2M concentré. Parmi les tensioactifs amphotères cités ci-dessus, on utilise de préférence les (alkyl en C8-2o)-bétaïnes, les (alkyl en C8-2o)-amido(alkyl en C2- 8)bétaïnes, les alkylamphodiacétates et leurs mélanges. Examples include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M concentrate. Among the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of C 8 -C 20 alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 2-8 alkyl) betaines, alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof.
Les tensioactifs non ioniques et/ou amphotères sont de préférence présents dans la composition selon l'invention en une quantité allant de 0 à 20 % en poids, mieux encore de 0,5 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
La quantité totale de tensioactifs, est de préférence comprise entre 4 et 50 % en poids, mieux encore entre 5 et 30 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The total amount of surfactants is preferably between 4 and 50% by weight, more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition selon l'invention peut notamment comprendre en outre un ou plusieurs polymères cationiques. Les polymères cationiques utilisables conformément à la présente invention peuvent être choisis parmi tous ceux déjà connus en soi comme améliorant les propriétés cosmétiques des cheveux, à savoir notamment ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A- 0 337 354 et dans les demandes de brevets français FR-A- 2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 61 1 , 2 470 596 et 2 519 863. The composition according to the invention may in particular further comprise one or more cationic polymers. The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in the patent application EP-A-0. 337,354 and in the French patent applications FR-A-2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,661, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.
De manière encore plus générale, au sens de la présente invention, l'expression "polymère cationique" désigne tout polymère comprenant des groupements cationiques et/ou des groupements ionisables en groupements cationiques. Even more generally, within the meaning of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups.
Les polymères cationiques préférés sont choisis parmi ceux qui contiennent des motifs comportant des groupements aminés primaires, secondaires, tertiaires et/ou quaternaires pouvant soit faire partie de la chaîne principale polymère, soit être portés par un substituant latéral directement relié à celle-ci. Les polymères cationiques utilisés ont généralement une masse molaire moyenne en nombre ou en poids comprise entre 500 et 5.106 environ, et de préférence comprise entre 103 et 3.106 environ. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto. The cationic polymers used generally have an average molecular weight in number or in weight of between about 500 and 5 × 10 6 , and preferably between 10 3 and 3 × 10 6 approximately.
Parmi les polymères cationiques, on peut citer plus particulièrement les polymères du type polyamine, polyaminoamide et polyammonium quaternaire. Ce sont des produits connus. Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers. These are known products.
Les polymères du type polyamine, polyamidoamide, polyammonium quaternaire, utilisables conformément à la présente invention, pouvant être notamment mentionnés, sont ceux décrits dans les brevets français n° 2 505 348 ou 2 542 997. Parmi ces polymères, on peut citer : Polymers of the polyamine, polyamidoamide or quaternary polyammonium type, usable in accordance with the present invention, which may be mentioned in particular, are those described in French Pat. Nos. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among these polymers, mention may be made of:
(1 ) les homopolymères ou copolymères dérivés d'esters ou d'amides acryliques ou méthacryliques et comportant au moins un des motifs de formules suivantes: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas:
Figure imgf000011_0001
dans lesquelles:
Figure imgf000011_0001
in which:
R3 , identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical CH3;  R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
A, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, de préférence 2 ou 3 atomes de carbone ou un groupe hydroxyalkyle de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ;  A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R4, R5, RQ, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone ou un radical benzyle et de préférence un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone;  R4, R5, RQ, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
Ri et R2 , identiques ou différents, représentent hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone et de préférence méthyle ou éthyle;  R 1 and R 2, which are identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;
X désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique tel que un anion méthosulfate ou un halogénure tel que chlorure ou bromure.  X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
Les copolymères de la famille (1 ) peuvent contenir en outre un ou plusieurs motifs dérivant de comonomères pouvant être choisis dans la famille des acrylamides, méthacrylamides, diacétones acrylamides, acrylamides et méthacrylamides substitués sur l'azote par des alkyles inférieurs (C1 -C4), des acides acryliques ou méthacryliques ou leurs esters, des vinyllactames tels que la vinylpyrrolidone ou le vinylcaprolactame, des esters vinyliques. The copolymers of the family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, acrylamide diacetones, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4). , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
Ainsi, parmi ces copolymères de la famille (1 ), on peut citer : - les copolymères d'acrylamide et de diméthylaminoéthyl méthacrylate quaternisé au sulfate de diméthyle ou avec un halogénure de diméthyle tels que celui vendu sous la dénomination HERCOFLOC par la société HERCULES, Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: the copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules,
- les copolymères d'acrylamide et de chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyl- triméthylammonium décrit par exemple dans la demande de brevet EP-A- the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-
080976 et vendus sous la dénomination BINA QUAT P 100 par la société CIBA GEIGY, 080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,
- le copolymère d'acrylamide et de méthosulfate de méthacryloyloxyéthyl- triméthylammonium vendu sous la dénomination RETEN par la société HERCULES,  the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
- les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate ou méthacrylate de dialkylaminoalkyle quaternisés ou non, tels que les produits vendus sous la dénomination "GAFQUAT" par la société ISP comme par exemple "GAFQUAT 734" ou "GAFQUAT 755" ou bien les produits dénommés "COPOLYMER 845, 958 et 937". Ces polymères sont décrits en détail dans les brevets français vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, whether or not quaternized, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by ISP, for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or the products referred to as "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937 ". These polymers are described in detail in French patents
2.077.143 et 2.393.573, 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,
les terpolymères méthacrylate de diméthyl amino éthyle/ vinylcaprolactame/ vinylpyrrolidone tel que le produit vendu sous la dénomination GAFFIX VC 713 par la société ISP,  dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
- les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone / méthacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine commercialisés notamment sous la dénomination STYLEZE CC 10 par ISP.  the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP.
- les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone / méthacrylamide de diméthylamino- propyle quaternisé tel que le produit vendu sous la dénomination "GAFQUAT HS 100" par la société ISP, et - les polymères de préférence réticulés de sels de méthacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci -C4) trialkyl(Ci -C4)ammonium tels que les polymères obtenus par homopolymérisation du diméthylaminoéthylméthacrylate quaternisé par le chlorure de méthyle, ou par copolymérisation de l'acrylamide avec le diméthylaminoéthylméthacrylate quaternisé par le chlorure de méthyle, l'homo ou la copolymérisation étant suivie d'une réticulation par un composé à insaturation oléfinique, en particulier le méthylène bis acrylamide. On peut plus particulièrement utiliser un copolymère réticulé acrylamide/chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyl triméthylammonium (par exemple 20/80 en poids) en particulier sous forme de dispersion comprenant 50 % en poids dudit copolymère dans de l'huile minérale. Cette dispersion est commercialisée sous le nom de « SALCARE® SC 92 » par la Société CIBA. On peut également utiliser un homopolymère réticulé du chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyl triméthylammonium et notamment comprenant environ 50 % en poids de l'homopolymère dans de l'huile minérale ou dans un ester liquide. Ces dispersions sont commercialisées sous les noms de « SALCARE® SC 95 » et « SALCARE® SC 96 » par la Société CIBA. (2) Les polysaccharides cationiques notamment les celluloses et les gommes de galactomannanes cationiques. Parmi les polysaccharides cationiques, on peut citer plus particulièrement les dérivés d'éthers de cellulose comportant des groupements ammonium quaternaires, les copolymères de cellulose cationiques ou les dérivés de cellulose greffés avec un monomère hydrosoluble d'ammonium quaternaire et les gommes de galactomannanes cationiques. the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP, and the polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl (Ci -C 4) trialkyl (Ci-C 4) salts; ) Ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound with olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (for example 20/80 by weight) in particularly in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride and especially comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA. (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
Les dérivés d'éthers de cellulose comportant des groupements ammonium quaternaires décrits dans le brevet français 1 492 597, et en particulier les polymères commercialisés sous les dénominations "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) ou "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) par la Société AMERCHOL. Ces polymères sont également définis dans le dictionnaire CTFA comme des ammonium quaternaires d'hydroxyéthylcellulose ayant réagi avec un époxyde substitué par un groupement triméthylammonium. The cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400 , LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.
Les copolymères de cellulose cationiques ou les dérivés de cellulose greffés avec un monomère hydrosoluble d'ammonium quaternaire, sont décrits notamment dans le brevet US 4 131 576, tels que les hydroxyalkyl celluloses, comme les hydroxyméthyl-, hydroxyéthyl- ou hydroxypropyl celluloses greffées notamment avec un sel de méthacryloyléthyl triméthylammonium, de méthacrylmidopropyl triméthylammonium, de diméthyl-diallylammonium. Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium.
Les produits commercialisés répondant à cette définition sont plus particulièrement les produits vendus sous la dénomination "Celquat L 200" et "Celquat H 100" par la Société National Starch.  The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch.
Les gommes de galactomannane cationiques sont décrites plus particulièrement dans les brevets US 3 589 578 et 4 031 307 en particulier les gommes de guar comprenant des groupements cationiques trialkylammonium. On utilise par exemple des gommes de guar modifiées par un sel (par ex. chlorure) de 2,3-époxypropyl triméthylammonium. De tels produits sont commercialisés notamment sous les dénominations commerciales de JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 ou JAGUAR C162 par la société RHODIA. The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, in particular guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by RHODIA.
(3) les polymères constitués de motifs pipérazinyle et de radicaux divalents alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène à chaînes droites ou ramifiées, éventuellement interrompues par des atomes d'oxygène, de soufre, d'azote ou par des cycles aromatiques ou hétérocycliques, ainsi que les produits d'oxydation et/ou de quaternisation de ces polymères. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets français 2.162.025 et 2.280.361 ; (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361;
(4) les polyaminoamides solubles dans l'eau préparés en particulier par polycondensation d'un composé acide avec une polyamine ; ces polyaminoamides peuvent être réticulés par une épihalohydrine, un diépoxyde, un dianhydride, un dianhydride non saturé, un dérivé bis-insaturé, une bis- halohydrine, un bis-azétidinium, une bis-haloacyldiamine, un bis-halogénure d'alkyle ou encore par un oligomère résultant de la réaction d'un composé bifonctionnel réactif vis-à-vis d'une bis-halohydrine, d'un bis-azétidinium, d'une bis-haloacyldiamine, d'un bis-halogénure d'alkyle, d'une épilhalohydrine, d'un diépoxyde ou d'un dérivé bis-insaturé ; l'agent réticulant étant utilisé dans des proportions allant de 0,025 à 0,35 mole par groupement aminé du polymaoamide ; ces polyaminoamides peuvent être alcoylés ou s'ils comportent une ou plusieurs fonctions aminés tertiaires, quaternisées. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets français 2.252.840 et 2.368.508 ; (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halogenide, epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polymaoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amino functions, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508;
(5) les dérivés de polyaminoamides résultant de la condensation de polyalcoylènes polyamines avec des acides polycarboxyliques suivie d'une alcoylation par des agents bifonctionnels. On peut citer par exemple les polymères acide adipique-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylène triamine dans lesquels le radical alcoyle comporte de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone et désigne de préférence méthyle, éthyle, propyle. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans le brevet français 1 .583.363. (5) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,583,363.
Parmi ces dérivés, on peut citer plus particulièrement les polymères acide adipique/diméthylaminohydroxypropyl/diéthylène triamine vendus sous la dénomination "Cartaretine F, F4 ou F8" par la société Sandoz. (6) les polymères obtenus par réaction d'une polyalkylène polyamine comportant deux groupements amine primaire et au moins un groupement amine secondaire avec un acide dicarboxylique choisi parmi l'acide diglycolique et les acides dicarboxyliques aliphatiques saturés ayant de 3 à 8 atomes de carbone. Le rapport molaire entre le polyalkylène polylamine et l'acide dicarboxylique étant compris entre 0,8 : 1 et 1 ,4 : 1 ; le polyaminoamide en résultant étant amené à réagir avec l'épichlorhydrine dans un rapport molaire d'épichlorhydrine par rapport au groupement amine secondaire du polyaminoamide compris entre 0,5 : 1 et 1 ,8 : 1 . De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets américains 3.227.615 et 2.961 .347. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz. (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1, 4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1, 8: 1. Such polymers are especially described in US Patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
Des polymères de ce type sont en particulier commercialisés sous la dénomination "Hercosett 57" par la société Hercules Inc. ou bien sous la dénomination de "PD 170" ou "Delsette 101 " par la société Hercules dans le cas du copolymère d'acide adipique/époxypropyl/diéthylène-triamine. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.
(7) les cyclopolymères d'alkyl diallyl amine ou de dialkyl diallyl ammonium tels que les homopolymères ou copolymères comportant comme constituant principal de la chaîne des motifs répondant aux formules (I) ou (II) : (7) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units of formula (I) or (II):
(CH2)k (CH 2 ) k
(CH2)t CR 1.2 C(Ri2)-CH2 (CH 2 ) t CR 1.2 C (R 12 ) -CH 2
Figure imgf000015_0001
Figure imgf000015_0001
(CH2)k (CH 2 ) k
/ \  / \
(CH2)t— CR12 Ç(R12)-CH2 - (CH 2 ) t - CR 12 (R 12 ) -CH 2 -
H2C CH, H 2 C CH,
\ /  \ /
(M) N  (M) N
I  I
R10 formules dans lesquelles k et t sont égaux à 0 ou 1 , la somme k + t étant égale à 1 ; R12 désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical méthyle ; R10 et R 10 formulas wherein k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being 1; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R10 and
Rl 1 , indépendamment l'un de l'autre, désignent un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, un groupement hydroxyalkyle dans lequel le groupement alkyle a de préférence 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, un groupement amidoalkyle inférieur (C1 -C4) ou Ri o et Ru peuvent désigner conjointement avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, des groupement hétérocycliques, tels que pipéridinyle ou morpholinyle ; Y" est un anion tel que bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. Ces polymères sont notamment décrits dans le brevet français 2.080.759 et dans son certificat d'addition 2.190.406. Ri o et R-| 1 , indépendamment l'un de l'autre, désignent de préférence un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone. R 1, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C1 -C4) or Ri o and Ru may jointly designate with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulphite, sulfate, phosphate These polymers are described in particular in French Patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406. R 1 and R 1, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Parmi les polymères définis ci-dessus, on peut citer plus particulièrement l'homopolymère de sels (par exemple chlorure) de diméthyldiallylammonium vendu sous la dénomination "MERQUAT 100" par la société NALCO (et leurs homologues de faibles masses molaires moyenne en poids) et les copolymères de sels (par exemple chlorure) de diallyldiméthylammonium et d'acrylamide commercialisés sous la dénomination "MERQUAT 550". Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Nalco (and their homologues of low average molecular weight masses) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide salts (for example chloride) sold under the name "Merquat 550".
(8) les polymères de diammonium quaternaire comprenant des motifs récurrents répondant à la formule : (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units corresponding to the formula:
Figure imgf000016_0001
Figure imgf000016_0001
formule (III) dans laquelle :  formula (III) in which:
R13, R14, R15 et R16, identiques ou différents, représentent des radicaux aliphatiques, alicycliques, ou arylaliphatiques comprenant de 1 à 20 atomes de carbone ou des radicaux hydroxyalkylaliphatiques inférieurs, ou bien R13, R14, R15 et R16, ensemble ou séparément, constituent avec les atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés des hétérocycles comprenant éventuellement un second hétéroatome autre que l'azote ou bien R13, R14, R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or R13, R14,
R15 et R16 représentent un radical alkyle en C1 -C6 linéaire ou ramifié substitué par un groupement nitrile, ester, acyle, amide ou -CO-O-R17-D ou -R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D group;
CO-NH-R17-D où R17 est un alkylène et D un groupement ammonium quaternaire ; A1 et B1 représentent des groupements polyméthyléniques comprenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, et pouvant contenir, liés à ou intercalés dans la chaîne principale, un ou plusieurs cycles aromatiques, ou un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène, de soufre ou des groupements sulfoxyde, sulfone, disulfure, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyle, ammonium quaternaire, uréido, amide ou ester, et CO-NH-R17-D wherein R17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
X" désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique; X " denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
A1 , R13 et R15 peuvent former avec les deux atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés un cycle pipérazinique ; en outre si A1 désigne un radical alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, B1 peut également désigner un groupement (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)n- dans lequel D désigne :  A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; furthermore, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a (CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- group in which D denotes:
a) un reste de glycol de formule : -O-Z-O-, où Z désigne un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié ou un groupement répondant à l'une des formules suivantes :  a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:
-(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- où x et y désignent un nombre entier de 1 à 4, représentant un degré de polymérisation défini et unique ou un nombre quelconque de 1 à 4 représentant un degré de polymérisation moyen ; - (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x-CH 2 -CH 2 - - [CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O] y -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) - where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4 , representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) un reste de diamine bis-secondaire tel qu'un dérivé de pipérazine ; c) un reste de diamine bis-primaire de formule : -NH-Y-NH-, où Y désigne un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou bien le radical bivalent -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2- ;  b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -;
d) un groupement uréylène de formule : -NH-CO-NH- ;  d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;
De préférence, X" est un anion tel que le chlorure ou le bromure. Ces polymères ont une masse molaire moyenne en nombre généralement comprise entre 1000 et 100000. Preferably, X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.
Des polymères de ce type sont notamment décrits dans les brevets français 2.320.330, 2.270.846, 2.316.271 , 2.336.434 et 2.413.907 et les brevets US 2.273.780, 2.375.853, 2.388.614, 2.454.547, 3.206.462, 2.261 .002, 2.271 .378, 3.874.870, 4.001 .432, 3.929.990, 3.966.904, 4.005.193, 4.025.617, 4.025.627, 4.025.653, 4.026.945 et 4.027.020. On peut utiliser plus particulièrement les polymères qui sont constitués de motifs récurrents répondant à la formule : Polymers of this type are described in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614 and 2,454,547. , 3,206,462, 2,261 .002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027 .020. It is more particularly possible to use polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula:
R1 R3 R 1 R 3
- N - (CH2)n - N - (CH2)p - (|V) - N - (CH 2 ) n - N - (CH 2 ) p - (| V)
R2 X" R4 χ- dans laquelle R<| , R2, R3 et R^ identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle ou hydroxyalkyle ayant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone environ, n et p sont des nombres entiers variant de 2 à 20 environ et, X" est un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique. R 2 X " R 4 χ - wherein R <1 , R 2, R 3 and R 3, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers varying from 2 at about 20 and X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
Un composé de formule (IV) particulièrement préféré est celui pour lequel R<| , R2, R3 et R4, représentent un radical méthyle et n = 3, p = 6 et X = Cl, dénommé Hexadimethrine chloride selon la nomenclature INCI (CTFA). A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which R < | , R2, R3 and R4, represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).
(9) les polymères de polyammonium quaternaires comprenant des motifs de formule (V): (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):
Figure imgf000018_0001
-
Figure imgf000018_0001
formule dans laquelle :  formula in which:
R18> R19> R20 et R21 > identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical méthyle, éthyle, propyle, β-hydroxyéthyle, β- hydroxypropyle ou -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH, R 18 > R 19 > R 20 and R 21 > identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2) p OH group,
où p est égal à 0 ou à un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 6, sous réserve que R†Q, R-| g, R20 et R21 ne représentent pas simultanément un atome d'hydrogène,  where p is 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R † Q, R- | g, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
r et s, identiques ou différents, sont des nombres entiers compris entre 1 et 6,  r and s, which are identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
q est égal à 0 ou à un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 34,  q is 0 or an integer from 1 to 34,
X" désigne un anion tel qu'un halogènure, X " denotes an anion such as a halogenide,
A désigne un radical d'un dihalogénure ou représente de préférence -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.  A denotes a radical of a dihalide or is preferably -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
De tels composés sont notamment décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A-122 324. On peut par exemple citer parmi ceux-ci, les produits "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® AD1 ", "Mirapol® AZ1 " et "Mirapol® 175" vendus par la société Miranol. Such compounds are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324. For example, the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® AD1", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol can be mentioned among them.
(10) Les polymères quaternaires de vinylpyrrolidone et de vinylimidazole tels que par exemple les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 et FC 370 par la société B.A.S.F. (1 1 ) Les polyamines comme le Polyquart® H vendu par COGNIS, référencé sous le nom de « POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE » dans le dictionnaire CTFA. (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F. (1 1) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.
D'autres polymères cationiques utilisables dans le cadre de l'invention sont des protéines cationiques ou des hydrolysats de protéines cationiques, des polyalkylèneimines, en particulier des polyéthylèneimines, des polymères comprenant des motifs vinylpyridine ou vinylpyridinium, des condensais de polyamines et d'épichlorhydrine, des polyuréylènes quaternaires et les dérivés de la chitine. Other cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
Parmi les polymères cationiques mentionnés ci-dessus, convenant dans l'invention, on peut utiliser de préférence les dérivés d'éther de cellulose quaternaires tels que les produits vendus sous la dénomination « JR 400 » par la Société AMERCHOL, les cyclopolymères cationiques, en particulier les homopolymères ou copolymères de sels (par exemple chlorure) de diméthyldiallylammonium, vendus sous les dénominations « MERQUAT 100 »,Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, which are suitable in the invention, quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, may be preferably used. in particular the homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride), sold under the names "Merquat 100",
« MERQUAT 550 » et « MERQUAT S » par la société NALCO et leurs homologues de faibles poids moléculaires en poids, les polymères quaternaires de vinylpyrrolidone et de vinylimidazole, les homopolymères ou copolymères éventuellement réticulés de sels de méthacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci -C4) trialkyl(Ci -C4)ammonium et leurs mélanges. "MERQUAT 550" and "MERQUAT S" by NALCO and their counterparts of low molecular weight by weight, quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (Ci -C4) trialkyl salts (Ci -C4) ammonium and mixtures thereof.
Le ou les polymères cationiques sont généralement présents à des concentrations allant de 0,01 à 20%, de préférence de 0,05 à 10% et plus particulièrement de 0,1 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. La composition selon l'invention peut notamment comprendre en outre au moins une silicone. Cette silicone peut être linéaire, ramifiée ou cyclique, volatile ou non, organomodifiée ou non. Par milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, on entend un milieu compatible avec les matières kératiniques, notamment les fibres kératiniques telles que les cheveux, mais aussi d'odeur, d'aspect et de toucher agréables. Le milieu est de préférence aqueux. Le milieu cosmétiquement acceptable est constitué d'eau ou d'un mélange d'eau et d'au moins un solvant organique choisi parmi les alcools inférieurs en Ci-C4, tels que l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le tertio-butanol ou le n- butanol ; les polyols tels que le glycérol, le propylèneglycol et les polyéthylèneglycols. The cationic polymer or polymers are generally present at concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.05% to 10% and more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one silicone. This silicone can be linear, branched or cyclic, volatile or not, organomodified or not. By cosmetically acceptable medium is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials, especially keratinous fibers such as hair, but also of pleasant smell, appearance and feel. The medium is preferably aqueous. The cosmetically acceptable medium consists of water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent chosen from lower C 1 -C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol and tert-butanol. or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.
De préférence, la composition comprend de 70 à 95 % en poids d'eau par rapport au poids total de la composition. Preferably, the composition comprises from 70 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
Le pH des compositions selon l'invention est généralement compris entre 2 et 1 1 , de préférence entre 3 et 10 et, mieux encore entre 4 et 8. The pH of the compositions according to the invention is generally between 2 and 1 1, preferably between 3 and 10 and more preferably between 4 and 8.
La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre en outre des additifs choisis parmi les polymères anioniques, les polymères non ioniques, ou les polymères amphotères, les épaississants polymères associatifs ou non, les épaississants non polymères, les agents nacrants, les opacifiants, les colorants ou les pigments, les parfums, les huiles minérales, végétales ou synthétiques, les cires, les vitamines, les filtres UV, les agents anti- radicalaires, les antipelliculaires, les conservateurs, les agents de stabilisation de pH, les solvants, et leurs mélanges. The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise additives chosen from anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, or amphoteric polymers, associative or non-associative polymeric thickeners, non-polymeric thickeners, pearlescent agents, opacifiers, dyes or pigments, perfumes, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, waxes, vitamins, UV filters, anti-radical agents, anti-dandruff, preservatives, pH stabilizers, solvents, and mixtures thereof.
L'homme du métier veillera à choisir les éventuels additifs et leur quantité de manière à ce qu'ils ne nuisent pas aux propriétés des compositions de la présente invention.  Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additives and their amount so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
Ces additifs sont généralement présents dans la composition selon l'invention en une quantité allant de 0 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. These additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les compositions peuvent être conditionnées sous diverses formes notamment dans des flacons, des flacons-pompe ou dans des récipients aérosols afin d'assurer une application de la composition sous forme vaporisée ou sous forme de mousse. Les compositions peuvent également imprégner des applicateurs, notamment des gants ou des lingettes. The compositions may be packaged in various forms, in particular in flasks, pump-bottles or in containers aerosols to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. The compositions may also impregnate applicators, including gloves or wipes.
La présente invention concerne également un procédé de lavage des matières kératiniques qui consiste à appliquer une quantité efficace d'une composition telle que décrite ci-dessus, sur les matières kératiniques, à effectuer un rinçage par exemple avec de l'eau après un éventuel temps de pose. The present invention also relates to a process for washing keratinous substances, which consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as described above, to the keratin materials, to rinsing for example with water after a possible time. deposit.
Les exemples suivants sont donnés à titre illustratif de la présente invention. Toutes les quantités indiquées sont exprimées en % en poids, sauf indication contraire. Exemples 1 The following examples are illustrative of the present invention. All quantities indicated are in% by weight unless otherwise indicated. Examples 1
On a préparé la composition de shampooing suivante : The following shampoo composition was prepared:
Composition Invention Invention Composition
Lauryléthersulfate de sodium (C12/C14 à  Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12 / C14 to
70/30) à 2.2 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène 4,9 g MA  70/30) to 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide 4.9 g MA
(TEXAPON AOS 225 UP de COGNIS)  (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP of COGNIS)
Laurylsulfate de sodium (C12/C14 à 70/30)  Sodium lauryl sulphate (C12 / C14 to 70/30)
2,6 g MA  2.6 g MA
(TEXAPON LS 35 de COGNIS)  (TEXAPON LS 35 from COGNIS)
Cocoamidopropyl bétaïne (DEHYTON PK  Cocoamidopropyl betaine (DEHYTON PK
3,05 g MA  3.05 g MA
45 de COGNIS)  45 of COGNIS)
2-octyl dodécanol 2 g  2-octyl dodecanol 2 g
Alcool cétylstéarylique (C16/C18)  Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18)
oxyéthyléné (60 OE) éther de myhstyl  oxyethylenated (60 EO) myhstyl ether
2 g  2 g
glycol (ELFACOS GT 282 S de AKZO  glycol (ELFACOS GT 282 S from AKZO
NOBEL)  NOBEL)
Polyquaternium-10 (POLYMER JR400 LT  Polyquaternium-10 (POLYMER JR400 LT
0,4 g  0.4 g
de AMERCHOL)  from AMERCHOL)
Chlorure de sodium 0,5 g  Sodium chloride 0.5 g
Glycérine 0,5 g  Glycerin 0.5 g
Conservateurs, parfum q,s,  Preservatives, perfume q, s,
Acide citrique q.s. pH 5,3  Citric acid q.s. pH 5.3
Eau déminéralisée q.s. p. 100 g  Demineralized water q.s. p. 100 g
* : en Matière active (MA) * : in Active Matter (MA)
La composition conforme à l'invention est épaissie et présente un aspect homogène et lisse, contrairement à une composition comparative ne comprenant pas l'ELFACOS GT 282S qui est totalement fluide. The composition according to the invention is thickened and has a homogeneous and smooth appearance, unlike a comparative composition that does not include the ELFACOS GT 282S which is completely fluid.
Les cheveux traités avec la composition de l'exemple 1 sont lisses et faciles à démêler. Hair treated with the composition of Example 1 is smooth and easy to disentangle.
EXEMPLES 2 et 3 EXAMPLES 2 and 3
On a préparé les compositions de shampooing suivantes : The following shampoo compositions were prepared:
Composition Exemple 2 Exemple 3 Lauryléthersulfate de sodium (C12/C14 à Composition Example 2 Example 3 Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12 / C14 to
70/30) à 2.2 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène 7,7 g MA 4,9 g MA 70/30) to 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide 7.7 g MA 4.9 g MA
(TEXAPON AOS 225 UP de COGNIS) (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP of COGNIS)
Laurylsulfate de sodium (C12/C14 à  Sodium lauryl sulphate (C12 / C14 to
2,6 g MA 4 g MA 70/30) (TEXAPON LS 35 de COGNIS)  2.6 g MA 4 g MA 70/30) (TEXAPON LS 35 from COGNIS)
Disodium cocoamphodiacétate (MIRANOL  Disodium cocoamphodiacetate (MIRANOL
2,4 g MA 1 ,3 g MA C2M CONC NP de RHODIA)  2.4 g MA 1, 3 g MA C2M CONC NP from RHODIA)
Hydroxyéthylcellulose réticulée par  Hydroxyethylcellulose crosslinked by
l'épichlorhydrine et quaternisée par la  epichlorohydrin and quaternized by the
0,4 g 0,4 g triméthylamine (UCARE POLYMER JR  0.4 g 0.4 g trimethylamine (UCARE POLYMER JR
400 LT par la société AMERCHOL)  400 LT by the company AMERCHOL)
2-octyl 1 -dodécanol 1 ,5 g 2 g 2-octyl 1-dodecanol 1, 5 g 2 g
Alcool cétylstéarylique (C16/C18) Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18)
oxyéthyléné (60 OE) éther de myristyl  oxyethylenated (60 EO) myristyl ether
1 ,5 g 2 g glycol (ELFACOS GT 282 S de AKZO  1, 5 g 2 g glycol (ELFACOS GT 282 S from AKZO
NOBEL)  NOBEL)
Conservateurs, parfum q.s. q.s.  Preservatives, perfume q.s. qs
Acide citrique q.s. pH 6,5 pH 6,3 Citric acid q.s. pH 6.5 pH 6.3
Eau déminéralisée q.s. p. 100 g 100 g Demineralized water q.s. p. 100 g 100 g
Les cheveux traités avec les compositions des exemples 2 ou 3 sont lisses. Hair treated with the compositions of Examples 2 or 3 are smooth.
Autre composition selon l'invention : Other composition according to the invention
EXEMPLE 4 EXAMPLE 4
Composition Exemple 4 Composition Example 4
Lauryléthersulfate de sodium (C12/C14 à  Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12 / C14 to
70/30) à 2.2 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène 7,7 g MA  70/30) to 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide 7.7 g MA
(TEXAPON AOS 225 UP de COGNIS)  (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP of COGNIS)
Laurylsulfate de sodium (C12/C14 à  Sodium lauryl sulphate (C12 / C14 to
2,6 g MA  2.6 g MA
70/30) (TEXAPON LS 35 de COGNIS)  70/30) (TEXAPON LS 35 from COGNIS)
Disodium cocoamphodiacétate (MIRANOL  Disodium cocoamphodiacetate (MIRANOL
2,4 g MA  2.4 g MA
C2M CONC NP de RHODIA) Hydroxyéthylcellulose réticulée par C2M CONC NP from RHODIA) Hydroxyethylcellulose crosslinked by
l'épichlorhydrine et quaternisée par la epichlorohydrin and quaternized by the
0,4 g triméthylamine (UCARE POLYMER JR  0.4 g trimethylamine (UCARE POLYMER JR
400 LT par la société AMERCHOL) 400 LT by the company AMERCHOL)
Alcool oléique 1 ,5 g Oleic alcohol 1, 5 g
Alcool cétylstéarylique (C16/C18) Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18)
oxyéthyléné (60 OE) éther de myristyl oxyethylenated (60 EO) myristyl ether
2 g glycol (ELFACOS GT 282 S de AKZO  2 g glycol (ELFACOS GT 282 S from AKZO
NOBEL) NOBEL)
Conservateurs, parfum q.s. Preservatives, perfume q.s.
Acide citrique q.s. pH 6,5Citric acid q.s. pH 6.5
Eau déminéralisée q.s. p. 100 g Demineralized water q.s. p. 100 g
EXEMPLE 5 n a préparé la composition de shampooing suivante : EXAMPLE 5 prepared the following shampoo composition:
Composition Exemple 5Composition Example 5
Lauryléthersulfate de sodium (C12/C14 à Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12 / C14 to
70/30) à 2.2 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène 4,9 g MA (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP de COGNIS)  70/30) to 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide 4.9 g MA (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP from COGNIS)
Laurylsulfate de sodium (C12/C14 à  Sodium lauryl sulphate (C12 / C14 to
2,6 g MA 70/30) (TEXAPON LS 35 de COGN IS)  2.6 g MA 70/30) (TEXAPON LS 35 from COGN IS)
Disodium cocoamphodiacétate (MIRANOL  Disodium cocoamphodiacetate (MIRANOL
2,4 g MA C2M CONC NP de RHODIA)  2.4 g MA C2M CONC NP from RHODIA)
Hydroxyéthylcellulose réticulée par  Hydroxyethylcellulose crosslinked by
l'épichlorhydrine et quaternisée par la epichlorohydrin and quaternized by the
0,4 g triméthylamine (UCARE POLYMER JR  0.4 g trimethylamine (UCARE POLYMER JR
400 LT par la société AMERCHOL) 400 LT by the company AMERCHOL)
2 décyl-1 -tétradécanol 1 ,5 g 2 decyl-1-tetradecanol 1.5 g
Alcool cétylstéarylique (C16/C18) Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18)
oxyéthyléné (60 OE) éther de myristyl oxyethylenated (60 EO) myristyl ether
2 g glycol (ELFACOS GT 282 S de AKZO  2 g glycol (ELFACOS GT 282 S from AKZO
NOBEL) NOBEL)
Conservateurs, parfum q.s. Acide citrique q.s. pH 6,3 Preservatives, perfume qs Citric acid qs pH 6.3
Eau déminéralisée q.s. p. 100 g  Demineralized water q.s. p. 100 g
EXEMPLES 6 et 7 EXAMPLES 6 and 7
On a préparé les compositions de shampooing suivantes : The following shampoo compositions were prepared:
Composition Exemple 6 Exemple 7Composition Example 6 Example 7
Lauryléthersulfate de sodium (C12/C14 à Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12 / C14 to
70/30) à 2.2 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène 5,25 g MA 5,25 g MA (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP de COGNIS)  70/30) to 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide 5.25 g MA 5.25 g MA (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP from COGNIS)
Laurylsulfate de sodium (C12/C14 à  Sodium lauryl sulphate (C12 / C14 to
4 g MA 4 g MA 70/30) (TEXAPON LS 35 de COGNIS)  4 g MA 4 g MA 70/30) (TEXAPON LS 35 from COGNIS)
Disodium cocoamphodiacétate (MIRANOL  Disodium cocoamphodiacetate (MIRANOL
1 ,2 g MA 1 ,2 g MA C2M CONC NP de RHODIA)  1, 2 g MA 1, 2 g MA C2M CONC NP from RHODIA)
Chlorure d'hydroxypropyl guar  Hydroxypropyl guar chloride
triméthylammonium (JAGUAR C162 de 0,15 g 0,15 g RHODIA) trimethylammonium (JAGUAR C162 0.15 g 0.15 g RHODIA)
2 décyl-1 -tétradécanol 0,05 g  2 decyl-1-tetradecanol 0.05 g
2-octyl 1 -dodécanol 1 ,5 g 2-octyl 1-dodecanol 1, 5 g
Alcool cétylstéarylique (C16/C18) Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18)
oxyéthyléné (60 OE) éther de myristyl oxyethylenated (60 EO) myristyl ether
3 g 3 g glycol (ELFACOS GT 282 S de AKZO  3 g 3 g glycol (ELFACOS GT 282 S from AKZO
NOBEL) NOBEL)
Chlorure de sodium 0,5 g 0,5 g Sodium chloride 0.5 g 0.5 g
Conservateurs, parfum q.s. q.s. Preservatives, perfume q.s. qs
Acide citrique q.s. pH 6,5 pH 6,3 Citric acid q.s. pH 6.5 pH 6.3
Eau déminéralisée q.s. p. 100 g 100 g Demineralized water q.s. p. 100 g 100 g

Claims

REVE N D ICATIONS REVE ND ICATIONS
1 . Composition de lavage des matières kératiniques, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle comprend, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable : 1. Washing composition for keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
- un ou plusieurs tensioactifs anioniques,  one or more anionic surfactants,
- un ou plusieurs alcools gras liquides, et  one or more liquid fatty alcohols, and
-u n ou pl us ieu rs éthers d 'alcool g ras et de polyol oxyéthyléné de formule (I) suivante :  or more than one alcohol ether and oxyethylenated polyol of the following formula (I):
Ri (OCH2CH2)n OR2 dans laquelle R^ désigne un groupement alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30, un groupement alkényle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30, ces groupements étant éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyles, R 1 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OR 2 in which R 1 denotes a linear or branched C 10 -C 30 alkyl group, a linear or branched C 10 -C 30 alkenyl group, these groups being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups,
R2 est choisi parmi l'atome d'hydrogène, un groupement alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30 éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, un groupement alkényle linéaire ou ramifié en C10- C30, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyles. n est supérieur ou égal à 40. R 2 is chosen from hydrogen, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; . n is greater than or equal to 40.
2. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le tensioactif anionique est choisi parmi les alkylsulfates, les alkyléthersulfates et les alkyléthercarboxylates, et leurs mélanges. 2. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and alkyl ether carboxylates, and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les tensioactifs anioniques sont présents en une quantité comprise allant de 3 à 50% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant or surfactants are present in an amount ranging from 3 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les alcools gras sont ramifiés et /ou insaturés, et comportent de 12 à 40 atomes de carbone. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohols are branched and / or unsaturated, and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
5. Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que les alcools gras présentent la structure R-OH, dans laquelle R désigne un groupement alkyle ramifié en C12-C24 ou alkényle en C12-C24. 5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, wherein R denotes a C12-C24 branched alkyl group or C12-C24 alkenyl group.
6. Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que les alcools gras sont choisis parmi l'alcool oléique, l'alcool isocétylique, l'alcool isostéarylique, le 2-octyl-1 -dodécanol, le 2-butyl octanol, le 2-hexyl-1 -décanol, le 2-decyl-1 -tétradécanol, le 2-tétradécyl-1 -cétanol et leur(s) mélange(s). 6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty alcohols are chosen from oleic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyl octanol, 2 1-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-ketanol and their mixture (s).
7. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les alcools gras liquides sont présents en une quantité allant de 0,01 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty alcohol or alcohols are present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les éthers d'alcool gras et de polyol oxyéthyléné présentent la formule (I) suivante : 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ether or ethers of fatty alcohol and oxyethylenated polyol have the following formula (I):
Ri (OCH2CH2)n OR2 Ri (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OR 2
Rl ; désigne un groupement alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30, un groupement alkényle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30, ces groupements étant éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyles, R1 ; denotes a linear or branched C10-C30 alkyl group, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkenyl group, these groups being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups,
R2 est choisi parmi l'atome d'hydrogène, un groupement alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C10-C30 éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, un groupement alkényle linéaire ou ramifié en C10- C30, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyles. n va de 40 à 80. R 2 is chosen from hydrogen, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, a linear or branched C10-C30 alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; . n ranges from 40 to 80.
9. Composition selon la revendication 8 caractérisée en ce que R1 et R2 désignent un groupement alkyle linéaire ou ramifiée comportant éventuellement un groupement hydroxyle. 9. Composition according to claim 8 characterized in that R1 and R2 denote a linear or branched alkyl group optionally comprising a hydroxyl group.
10. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les éthers d'alcools gras et de polyol oxyéthyléné sont présents en une quantité allant de 0,01 à 10 % en poids, préférentiellement de 0,1 à 5% en poids et, mieux encore, de 0,5 à 3% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ether or ethers of fatty alcohol and oxyethylenated polyol are present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
1 1 . Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend en outre au moins un tensioactif non ionique différent des éthers de formule (I) et/ou au moins un tensioactif amphotère. 1 1. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one non-surfactant. ionic different from the ethers of formula (I) and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant.
12. Composition selon la revendication 1 1 , caractérisée en ce que le ou les tensioactifs non ioniques et/ou amphotères sont présents en une quantité totale allant de 0 à 20% en poids, de préférence allant de 0,5 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 12. Composition according to claim 1 1, characterized in that the nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le milieu cosmétiquement acceptable est constitué d'eau, ou d'un mélange d'eau et d'au moins un solvant organique. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable medium consists of water, or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent.
14. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend d'autres ingrédients choisis parmi les silicones, les polymères anioniques, les polymères cationiques, les polymères non ioniques ou les polymères amphotères, les épaississants polymères associatifs ou non, les épaississants non polymères, les agents nacrants, les opacifiants, les colorants ou les pigments, les parfums, les huiles minérales, végétales ou synthétiques, les cires, les vitamines, les filtres UV, les agents anti-radicalaires, les antipelliculaires, les conservateurs, les agents de stabilisation de pH, les solvants, et leurs mélanges. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises other ingredients selected from silicones, anionic polymers, cationic polymers, nonionic polymers or amphoteric polymers, associative polymeric thickeners or no, non-polymeric thickeners, pearlescent agents, opacifiers, dyes or pigments, perfumes, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, waxes, vitamins, UV filters, anti-radical agents, anti-dandruff agents, preservatives, pH stabilizers, solvents, and mixtures thereof.
15. Utilisation de la composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, pour le lavage et le conditionnement des matières kératiniques et en particulier des fibres kératiniques. 15. Use of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for washing and conditioning keratin materials and in particular keratinous fibers.
16. Procédé de lavage et de conditionnement des matières kératiniques et en particulier des fibres kératiniques, comprenant l'application d'une quantité efficace d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 14, sur les cheveux, et un rinçage après un éventuel temps de pose. 16. A method for washing and conditioning keratin materials and in particular keratin fibers, comprising applying an effective amount of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, to the hair, and rinsing after a possible installation time.
PCT/FR2010/052704 2009-12-17 2010-12-14 Cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant, a liquid fatty alcohol and an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol ether and cosmetic treatment method WO2011073563A2 (en)

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FR2954114A1 (en) 2011-06-24
US20120247499A1 (en) 2012-10-04

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