WO2010076484A1

WO2010076484A1 - Anhydrous cosmetic composition containing a polyester, a volatile oil, and a non-volatile oil

Info

Publication number: WO2010076484A1
Application number: PCT/FR2009/052543
Authority: WO
Inventors: Cécile Bebot; Ludivine Laurent; Christine Annotel
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2008-12-16
Filing date: 2009-12-15
Publication date: 2010-07-08

Abstract

The invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition containing one or more liquid polyesters resulting from the condensation of a dimer and/or a trimer of an unsaturated fatty acid and of an saturated linear diol, one or more volatile oils and one or more non-volatile oils, the weight ratio between the volatile oil(s) and the non-volatile oil(s) being higher than 1.5, as well as to a cosmetic treatment method.

Description

Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a polyester, a volatile oil and a non-volatile oil

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, one or more volatile oils and one or more non-volatile oils, the weight ratio of oil (s) volatile (s) / nonvolatile oil (s) being greater than 1, 5, and a process for treating keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers.

Many hair care products have been described in the prior art. The corresponding compositions are intended to bring good cosmetic properties to the hair. However, it appears very difficult to formulate hair products to bring a good level of shine to the hair without causing a greasy or tacky effect very anticosmetic.

Document EP 1 857 098 also discloses a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratin materials comprising an ester of polyol (s) and dimer of diacid of fatty acid and a particular polyamide.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the combination in anhydrous medium of one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol, a volatile oil and an oil nonvolatile in a weight ratio volatile oil / nonvolatile oil greater than 1.5 allowed to avoid the problems encountered in the prior art and to obtain a hair care composition to bring a good level of shine to the hair while limiting the fat effect.

The subject of the present invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and saturated linear diol, one or more volatile oils and one or more nonvolatile oils, the weight ratio volatile oil (s) / nonvolatile oil (s) being greater than 1, 5.

Liquid polyester means a polyester whose viscosity is less than 40000 Cst, preferably less than 20000 Cst at 40 ⁰ C, determined according to ASTM D445-88.

By "unsaturated fatty acid" is meant, in the context of the present invention, a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The unsaturated fatty acid dimers may in particular comprise from 2 to 4 unsaturations in their carbon chain. The unsaturated fatty acid trimers can comprise from 3 to 6 unsaturations in their carbon chain. Preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers are polycarboxylic acids comprising at least 2 and up to 6 carboxylic acid functions per molecule. In a preferred embodiment, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer may comprise from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and preferably 2 carboxylic acid functions. The unsaturated fatty acid trimer can comprise from 42 to 66 carbon atoms and preferably 3 carboxylic acid functions. Preferably, an unsaturated fatty acid dimer is used, in particular having 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions.

Mixtures of dimers and trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated fatty acids (unpolymerized, therefore corresponding to the monomers) can also be used within the scope of the invention. In the case of such a mixture, a mixture comprising more than 50% by weight of dimers, for example a mixture comprising more than 90% by weight, preferably more than 95%, of acids in the form of dimers, is preferred. the remainder of the mixture may be trimers and / or unsaturated fatty acid monomers.

The dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid may optionally be hydrogenated after the polymerization reaction of the unsaturated fatty acid, in particular to improve the stability of the dimer or trimer product.

Hydrogenated fatty acid dimers (oleic or linoleic acid) are especially marketed under the brand names EMPOL 1008, EMPOL 1004, EMPOL 1025, EMPOL 1061 and EMPOL 1062 by Cognis and Pripol 1006 (dilinoleic acid) by Uniqema, International. Uniqema also markets a hydrogenated fatty acid dimer under the name Pripol 1013 (hydrogenated dilinoleic acid).

In a particularly preferred manner, the dimer of unsaturated fatty acid is a dimer of linoleic acid, also called dilinoleic acid, obtained by intermolecular polymerization of linoleic acid. The unsaturated fatty acid may be of natural origin, preferably vegetable. A fatty acid of plant origin can come from any plant source producing said fatty acid. For example, in the case of linoleic acid, molecules extracted from soybean, rapeseed, etc. may be used. The polyester or polyesters present in the composition according to the invention are thus obtained by condensation of a long chain fatty acid polymerized with a saturated linear diol. In the context of the present invention, the term "diol" denotes a hydrocarbon compound C 2 -C 10, preferably C 2 -C 8, and preferably C 2 -C 6, the carbon chain is substituted by two hydroxyl functions. The hydrocarbon chain can be interrupted by an oxygen atom. The diols used in the composition according to the invention are saturated linear alcohols. In a particularly preferred manner, the saturated linear diol is a butanediol, in particular 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol.

Thus, preferably, the polyester present in the composition according to the invention is obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and a butanediol. Advantageously, the polyester or polyesters used in the composition according to the invention have an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000, preferably between 1000 and 2000, and preferably between 1200 and 1800. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and saturated linear diol is a polymer, or polyester, of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. , preferably having an average molecular weight of 1300, a viscosity at 40 ^° C. of 2500-3500 cSt and a refractive index at 25 ° C. of 1.475-1.485. In particular, mention may be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer). The amount of polyester in the composition according to the invention can vary to a large extent and depends in particular on the desired dosage and the desired effects. Advantageously, and to give an order of magnitude, the polyester or polyesters represent from 0.1% to 50%, preferably from 0.5% to 20%, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As explained above, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more volatile oils and one or more non-volatile oils.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with a keratin surface in less than one hour at ambient temperature (25 ° C +/- 5 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ³ to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ).

The volatile oil (s) present in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (still 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR or PERMETHYL.

As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicone oils, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 × 10 ⁶ m ² / s), and having in particular from 2 to 10 atoms. silicon, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and

6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Fluorinated volatile oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane and mixtures thereof can also be used.

It is also possible to use a mixture of the above-mentioned oils.

The volatile oil (s) generally represent from 20 to 95%, preferably from 40 to 90%, better still from 50 to 85% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa and in particular oils of high molar mass. The non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, oils of synthetic or mineral origin, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. The non-volatile oil or oils present in the composition according to the invention may in particular be chosen from fluorinated hydrocarbon oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils. As nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil suitable for the implementation of the invention, mention may notably be made of:

1) hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as squalane; 2) hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecylglutanate / phytostearyl glutanate, for example sold under the name ELDEW PS203 by AJINOMOTO, triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol whose fatty acids may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor oil, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL; we can also mention camelina oil; 3) hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, for example: a) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; b) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, and mixtures thereof, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene; c) the different esters of triglycerides, such as the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and optionally mono or polyhydroxylated and R2 represents a hydrocarbon or branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 10.

The different esters of triglycerides may thus be chosen from fatty acid esters such as, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, palmitate of ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially heptanoate of isostearyl, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, diethyl 2-d propylene glycol hexanoate and mixtures thereof, C 12 -C 15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate of isostearyl, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, octyl hydroxystearate.

The different esters of the triglycerides may also be chosen from polyol mono or poly esters, such as pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, and polyethylene glycol diheptanoate. d) branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; e) mono or polyunsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof, and f) di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC, by Cognis.

The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and phenyl silicones. phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and

2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 Cst, and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile oil or oils generally represent from 2 to 30%, preferably from 4 to 20%, better still from 5 to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

As indicated above, the weight ratio volatile oil (s) / non-volatile oil (s) is greater than 1, 5. It may preferably vary from 1.55 to 45, more preferably from 2 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 20.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cosmetic additives chosen from silicones different from the silicone oils described above, the different fatty substances from the volatile or non-volatile oils described above, and in particular vegetable waxes, surfactants and fixing polymers. , fibers, mineral particles, perfumes, floral waters, plasticizers, glycols, sunscreens, basifying agents, acidifying agents, preservatives, permanent or temporary dyes, mineral fillers, flakes, conditioners, anti-foam agents, moisturizing agents, humectants, emollients, polymeric or non-polymeric thickeners, peptizers, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and provitamins, proteins, sequestering agents, solubilizing agents, oxidizing agents, anti-corrosion agents and reducing or antioxidants.

The silicones optionally present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes which are in the form of waxes, resins or gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academy Press.

The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polydiorganosiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures.

In particular, the following products may be mentioned:

polydimethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums,

polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane gums,

polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums,

polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums. More particularly useful products are the following mixtures:

mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA code nomenclature) and a cyclic poly-dimethylsiloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature) such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the SF product 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m ² / s and an SF 96 oil having a viscosity of 5 × 10 ^-6 m ² / s. preferably 15% SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R ₂ SiO ₂ Z ₂ , R ₅ SiO ₂ Z ₂ , RSiO ₃ Z ₂ and SiO ₄ Z ₂ in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower alkyl radical Ci-C ₄ , more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical. Among these resins may be mentioned the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21 -5034 and X21 -5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

As explained above, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants.

The surfactant (s) optionally present in the composition according to the invention may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic or cationic surfactants. Surfactants suitable for the implementation of the present invention are in particular the following:

(i) Anionic surfactant (s):

By way of example of anionic surfactants which may be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (nonlimiting list) of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amino salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C6-C24) alkylsulfosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylsulfosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylamidesulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulfoacetates; the acyl (C6-C24) sarcosinates and the acyl (C6-C24) glutamates. It is also possible to use (C6-C24) alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, (C6-C24) alkyl amido acids. polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and mixtures thereof.

(ii) Nonionic surfactant (s):

Nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 16-188). . Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, polyethoxylated alkylphenols, polypropoxylated, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide which may range from 2 to 50. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1, 5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as aminoalkyl (CJQ-C14) amines or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. Mention may also be made of alkylpolyglucosides.

Mention may in particular be made of stearyl alcohol, alcoholic ketostearyl and polysorbate 20.

Among the polyalkylglucosides, mention may be made, for example, of the products sold by HENKEL under the name APG, such as the products APG 300, APG 350, APG 500, APG 550, APG

625, APG base 10-12; the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the trade names TRITON CG 1 10 (or ORAMIX CG 1 10) and TRITON

CG 312 (or ORAMIX NS 10); those sold by company B. A. S. F. under the name LUTENSOL GD 70; sold by the company HENKEL under the names PLANTAREN 1200, PLANTAREN 1300, PLANTAREN 2000, and PLANTACARE 2000, PLANTACARE 818, PLANTACARE 1200.

(iii) Amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic surfactant (s):

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be in particular (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic water-solubilising group (For example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate, mention may also be made of (C ₈ -C ₂ ) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkylamido (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylbetaines or C ₁ -C 6 alkyl (C ₁ -C ₆ ) amidoalkyl sulfobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in US Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures:

R ₂ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (R ₃ ) (R ₄ ) (CH ₂ COO ^" ) in which: R ₂ denotes a linear or branched C 5 -C 20 alkyl radical derived, for example, from an R ₂ -COOH acid; present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group, and R ₂ '-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C) in which: B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX ', C represents - (CH ₂ ) _Z -Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X 'denotes the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH or a hydrogen atom Y' denotes -COOH or the radical -CH ₂ - CHOH - SO ₃ H R-2 'denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 5 -C 20 alkyl radical of an R 9 -COOH acid present for example in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, especially C _7, C _9, C _n or C ₁₃ alkyl C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic Acid, Cocoamphodipropionic Acid .

By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrated by Rhodia Chimie.

(iv) Cationic surfactants:

Among the cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular

(Non-limiting list): salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character.

Mention may in particular be made of methyl alkyl alkylamidoethyl imidazolinium methosulphate (Quaternium-87) marketed by the company Degussa under the reference VARISOFT W 575 PG, or behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride marketed by Clariant under the reference GENAMIN KDMP. There may also be mentioned cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride. It is also possible to use, as cationic surfactants, quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (I) below:

in which :

R22 is selected from alkyl and Ci -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals Ci -C ₆ alkyl; R23 is selected from:

O II

the radical R ₂₆ - C -

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radicals R ₂₇ ,

the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R ₂₈ - C -

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals R 29,

the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon radicals; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X ^" is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is

The alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon radical R 27, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 radical, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R _24, R 26 and R ₂ 8, identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon radicals C _{1 1} -C ₂₁ linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, more particularly from alkyl and alkenyl radicals C _{1 1} -C ₂₁ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X ^- is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (I) in which: - R-22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,

- x and y are equal to 1;

z is 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2; - R23 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R ₂₆ - C -

methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals,

- the hydrogen atom;

- R25 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R ₉₈ - C - 2 ⁸

- the hydrogen atom;

- R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon radicals, and preferably from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear. There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (I) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl- hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or optionally alkyldiisopropanolamine. oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl) or methane sulphonate. methyl, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART ^® by Henkel, Stepanquat® ^® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ^® by the company

CECA, REWOQUAT ^® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

The composition according to the invention may contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. As a mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methyl sulfate and 15 to 30% triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, acyl radicals having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and from partially partially hydrogenated palm oil.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. The surfactant or surfactants generally represent from 0 to 20%, preferably from 0.05 to 10%, more preferably 0, 1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

As explained above, the composition according to the invention may contain one or more preferably non-silicone fatty substances such as waxes.

As explained above, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fixing polymers.

The fixing polymers that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen in particular from the cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fixing polymer" is intended to mean any polymer which makes it possible to impart a shape or to maintain a given shape or hairstyle.

The fixing polymers that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen especially from cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers and their mixtures. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

The cationic fixing polymers that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from polymers containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and having a number-average molecular weight of between 500 and about 5,000,000, and preferably between 1,000 and 3,000,000. Among these polymers, the following cationic polymers may be mentioned more particularly:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers of acrylate or methacrylic esters or amides with amino functional groups, comprising at least one of the following units of formulas:

R ₃ R, R,

-VS

in which :

R 1 and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ group; A is a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R _4, R 5, R _O, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms or benzyl;

X denotes a methosulphate anion or a halogenide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family (1) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyl groups (C _{1 - 4} ), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcapro lactam, vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name

HERCOFLOC ^® by the company HERCULES, the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA

QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate quaternized or non-quaternized copolymers, such as products sold under the name "Gafquat ^®" by ISP, for example, "Gafquat ^® 734" or "Gafquat ^® 755", or alternatively the products known as "Copolymer ^® 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French Patent Nos. 2,077,143 and

2,393,573, the dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone such as the product sold under the name Gaffix ^® VC 713 by the company ISP, and - the vinylpyrrolidone / quaternized dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide such as in particular the product sold under the name " GAFQUAT ^® HS 100 "by the company ISP;

(2) cationic polysaccharides, preferably quaternary ammonium, such as those described in US Patents 3,589

578 and 4031 307 such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Such products are sold in particular under the trade names of Jaguar C 13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 by the company Meyhall;

(3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; (4) chitosans or their salts; the salts that can be used are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate.

Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name KYTAN

BRUT STANDARD by the company ABER TECHNOLOGIES, the pyrrolidone carboxylate chitosan sold under the name KYT AMER ^® PC by the company AMERCHOL.

(5) cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and described especially in US Pat. No. 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl-cellulose grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium.

The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "CELQUAT L 200" and "CELQUAT H 100" by the company National Starch.

The anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5,000,000.

The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated mono- or di-carboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula:

^R? \ _/ (A ₁ VCOOH

(H)

R / \

R _r in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, Ai denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as that oxygen or sulfur, R ₇ denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, Rs denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, Rg denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a group -CH ₂ -COOH, phenyl or benzyl.

In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl and ethyl groups.

The anionic fixing polymers with carboxylic groups that can be used in a preferred manner according to the invention are:

A) Homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL ^® E or K by the company Allied Colloid and Ultrahold ^® by the company BASF, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salts under the denominations RETEN 421, 423 or 425 by the company HERCULES, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.

B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,222,944 and German Application No. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated such as described in particular in the Luxembourg patent applications Nos ^. 75370 and 75371 or proposed under the name QUADRAMER by the AMERICAN company Cyanamid. Mention may also be methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / butyl acrylate terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Luvimer ^® 100 P by the company BASF. Mention may also be methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer in aqueous dispersion sold under the name ^® Amerhold DR 25 by the company Amerchol.

C) Crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers or vinyl esters of a saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers may optionally be grafted or crosslinked, or another vinyl ester monomer, allyl or methallylique a carboxylic acid CC- or β-cyclic . Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French Patents ^Nos 1222944, 1580545, 2265782, 2265781, 1564 1 10 and 2 439 798. Commercial products coming within this class are the resins 28- 29-

30, 26-13 and 28, sold by National Starch.

D) copolymers of C ₄ -C ₅ monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from: copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. Such polymers are described in particular in US Patents ^Nos 2,047,398, 2,723,248, January 13 2102, GB Patent No. 839 805. Commercial products include those sold under the names Gantrez AN or ES by ^® the ISP company. copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic and itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allylic or methallyl esters optionally containing one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin or acrylic or methacrylic ester groups; acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified.

These polymers are for example described in French Patent Nos ^. 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the Applicant.

E) Polyacrylamides having carboxylate groups.

Homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulphonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrene-sulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acrylamido-alkylsulphonic units.

These polymers may especially be chosen from:

salts of polyvinylsulphonic acid having a molecular mass of between about 1,000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone.

- salts of polystyrene sulfonic acid such as the sodium salts are sold under the names Flexan ^® 500 and Flexan ^® 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719.

the polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631, and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid sold under the name COSMEDIA POLYMER HSP 1,180 by Henkel.

Preferably, the anionic fixing polymers are chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide sold under the name Ultrahold Strong by the ^® BASF company, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as terpolymers vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as methylvinylether copolymers / monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name Gantrez ^® by the company ISP, copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit ^® L by the company Rohm Pharma, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer ^® MAEX or MAE by the company BA SF and vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name Luviset CA 66 by the company BASF, the copolymers of vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyéthylèneglyco l sold under the name Aristoflex ^® A by the company BASF. Among the anionic fixing polymers mentioned above, are more particularly preferred use in the context of the present invention the methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez ^® ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid / acrylate ethyl / N-tert-butylacrylamide sold under the name ULTRAHOLD ^®

STRONG by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit ^® L by the company Rohm Pharma, the vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / vinyl crotonic acid and acid terpolymers and crotonic / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer ^® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF. The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer having one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines;

B and C may also designate a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or B and C are part of a chain of an ethylene-α, β-dicarboxylic-containing polymer, one of which has been reacted with a polyamine having one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

The amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers:

(1) copolymers with acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in U.S. Patent No. 3,836,537.

(2) polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by an alkyl group, b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituted esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are those compounds whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide,

N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.

Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylates,

N-tert-butylaminoethyl.

Particularly The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed. 1991) is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® ^® or Lovocryl ^® 47 by the company

NATIONAL STARCH.

(3) polyamino amides crosslinked and acylated partially or totally derived from poyaminoamides of general formula:

-CO- - R 10 -CO-

(III)

wherein Rio represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, a monohydric aliphatic acid or ethylenically double bonded dicarboxylic acid, a lower alkano l ester having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a group derived from the addition of any of said acids with a bis-primary amine or bis-secondary, and Z denotes a group derived from a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the group

where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this group derived from diethylene triamine, triethylene tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (XVIII) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine:

c) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the -NH- (CH ₂ ) O-NH- group derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by the addition reaction of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amino group of the polyaminoamide, and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or a alkane-sultone or their salts.

The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic acids, terephthalic acid, ethylenically double bonded acids such as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids.

The alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.

(4) polymers having zwitterionic units of formula:

wherein Rn denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, R12 and R ₃ represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl, R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15 does not exceed 10.

Polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.

By way of example, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER

Z301 by the company SANDOZ.

(5) polymers derived from chitosan having monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas:

the unit (D) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the unit (F) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit (F), Ri ₆ represents a group of formula:

in which if q = 0, R 17, R 1 and R 19, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more atoms nitrogen and / or optionally substituted with one or more amino, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio, sulphonic groups, an alkylthio radical whose alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the groups Ri ₇ , Ri s and Ri ₉ being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q = l, R ₁₇ , R 18 and R ₁₉ each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids. (6) The polymers comprising units corresponding to the general formula (V) are, for example, described in French Patent 1,400,366:

wherein R20 is hydrogen, CH3O, CH3CH2O, phenyl, R21 is hydrogen or lower alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, R22 is hydrogen or C1-lower alkyl; -C ₆ such that methyl, ethyl, R ₂₃ denotes a C 1 -C ₆ lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R ₂ 4 -N (R ₂₂ ) ₂ , R 24 representing a group - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH (CH 2) -, R ₂₂ having the meanings mentioned above.

(7) The polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan, sold under the name "Evalsan" by the company Jan Dekker.

(8) amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X selected from:

a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:

-D-X-D-X-D- (VI)

where D is a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which may be the same or different, denotes a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the unsubstituted or substituted backbone. hydroxyl groups and may further comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide groups, alcohol, ester and / or urethane.

b) polymers of formula:

-DXDX- (VII) where D denotes a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betaineized by reaction with the acid; chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate. (9) (C 1 -C 5) alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkanol. These copolymers may also comprise other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.

Among the amphoteric fixing polymers described above, the most particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylamino-ethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer ^®, Amphomer ^® LV 71 or Lovocryl ^® 47 by the company National Starch and those of family (4) such as copolymers of methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl sold for example under the name Diaformer ^® Z301 by the company Sandoz .

The nonionic fixing polymers that can be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: polyalkyloxazolines;

homopolymers of vinyl acetate;

vinyl acetate copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example, dibutyl maleate;

- homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters such as, for example, alkyl acrylates and copolymers of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products sold by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Primal AC-261 K ^® and EUDRAGIT ^® NE 30 D, by BASF under the name

8845, by the company Hoechst under the name APPRETAN ^® 9212;

copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and (meth) acrylates alkyl; mention may be made of the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by the company Rohm &Haas;

homopolymers of styrene;

- copolymers of styrene such as, for example, copolymers of styrene and of alkyl (meth) acrylate such as Mowilith LDM ^® products 691 1 Mowilith ^® DM 61 1 and Mowilith ^® LDM 6070 sold by the company Hoechst, the RHODOPAS ^® SD 215 and RHODOPAS ^® DS 910 products offered by RHODIA CHIMIE; copolymers of styrene, alkyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine;

polyamides; vinyllactam homopolymers such as homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam or sold under the name Luviskol ^® PLUS by the company BASF; and

- vinyllactam copolymers such as a poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® ^® VPC 55K65W by BASF, poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) as those marketed under the name PVPVA® ^® S630L by ISP, Luviskol ^® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by the company BASF; terpolymers and poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate), for example, that marketed under the name Luviskol ^® VAP 343 by BASF.

The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Can also be used as fixing polymers, functionalized or non-functionalized polyurethanes, silicone or non-silicone, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric, or mixtures thereof.

The polyurethanes particularly targeted by the present invention are those described in applications EP 0 75 1 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297 of which the Applicant holds, as well as in applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 from BASF, and EP 0 619 11 1 from the company National Starch.

As polyurethanes that are suitable in the present invention include products sold under the names LUVISET PUR ^® and LUVISET ^® Si PUR by the company

BASF.

The fixing polymer (s) is (are) present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As explained above, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polymeric thickening agents or not. As polymeric thickeners, there may be mentioned crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers (INCI name: CARBOMER) and nonionic or anionic associative polyurethanes, such as compounds ACULYN 44 and 46, and VISCOPHOBE DB 1000. According to a In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises glycerine.

When present, the glycerine may represent from 1 to 30%, preferably from 2 to 15%, by weight of the total weight of the composition. As indicated above, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous.

By anhydrous is meant in the sense of the present invention a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, and preferably less than 2% by weight of water. Even more preferably, the composition does not comprise added water, the water possibly present being water from the hygroscopic raw materials or from the water of crystallization of the salts.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium. By cosmetically acceptable medium is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials and in particular the hair.

The cosmetically acceptable medium may comprise a cosmetically acceptable water-soluble solvent.

The cosmetically acceptable water-soluble solvent may be chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, polyols, polyol ethers, C ₅ -C ₁₀ alkanes, C ₃ -C ₄ ketones and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acetates. dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of cream, paste or in the form of foam (aerosol or not), or gel.

When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a foam, it can be packaged in an aerosol. In this case, it comprises one or more propellants. The propellant (s) is (are) chosen from non - liquefied compressed gases, such as air, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide or dimethyl ether, or from liquefied gases such as volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, isobutane, propane, pentane and halogenated hydrocarbons. For example, a mixture of one or more volatile hydrocarbons can be used with dimethyl ether.

The foam can still be obtained without thruster by means of a pump bottle.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application to the keratin materials, preferably the keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, of an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or unsaturated fatty acid trimer and diol, one or more volatile oils and one or more nonvolatile oils, the weight ratio volatile oil (s) / nonvolatile oil (s) being greater than 1, 5. The dimer (s) and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acid, the volatile oil (s) and the non-volatile oil (s) used in the process according to the invention are as defined above with respect to the composition according to the invention. In the process according to the invention, the term "diol" denotes a hydrocarbon compound containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, the carbon chain of which is substituted by two hydroxyl functions. The hydrocarbon chain (s) may be interrupted by an oxygen atom. The diols that can be used in the process according to the invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols. Preferably, the diol is a saturated linear diol. In a particularly preferred manner, the diol is a butanediol, especially 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol.

The composition according to the invention and the composition used in the process according to the invention can also be used by incorporation in hair styling compositions or in shampoos. The present invention is illustrated by the following examples.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

A cosmetic composition according to the invention is prepared, the formulation of which is indicated in Table 1. The contents are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Table 1

This composition is packaged in a pump bottle. After spraying on a hair and drying, the hair is very shiny and does not have a marked greasy appearance.

Replacing Viscoplast 14436H Weight for Weight Polyester with DOW CORNING 556 FLUID Phenyl Silicone

COSMETIC GRADE (INCI name: PHENYL TRIMETHICONE), the hair finally has a little lasting shine and a marked bold character.

Example 2

A cosmetic composition according to the invention is prepared, the formulation of which is indicated in Table 2. The contents are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Table 2

* Camelina oil (Myagrum sativum) is a jack called German Sesame, Small Flax or Flax Flax. This oil is extracted from seeds and consists mainly of oleic-linoleic-linolenic-eicosenoic acid triglycerides (15-22-31-13).

Claims

1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and saturated linear diol, one or more volatile oils and one or more non-volatile oils, the weight ratio of oil ( s) volatile (s) / nonvolatile oil (s) being greater than 1, 5.

2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the polyester or polyesters are obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and / or from an unsaturated fatty acid trimer. comprising from 42 to 66 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that the saturated linear diol is a butanediol. 4. Composition according to Claim 3, characterized in that the butanediol is chosen from 1, 2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol and 1,

4-butanedio l.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the polyester or polyesters represent from 0, 1 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 20%, better from 1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil (s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, volatile silicone oils and volatile fluoro oils.

7. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms are chosen from branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, preferably isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane.

8. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the volatile silicone oils are chosen from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil or oils represent from 20 to 95%, preferably from 40 to 90%, better still from 50 to 85% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile oil or oils are chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and non-volatile silicone oils.

1. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin and hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin.

12. Composition according to claim 1 1 characterized in that the hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin are chosen from synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, linear or branched hydrocarbons, esters different from triglycerides, branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, mono or polyunsaturated fatty acids and di-alkyl carbonates.

13. Composition according to Claim 10, characterized in that the non-volatile silicone oils are chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes containing C2-C24 alkyl or C2-C24 alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends. and phenyl silicones.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile oil or oils represent 2 to 30%, preferably 4 to 20%, more preferably 5 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of volatile oil (s) to non-volatile oil (s) varies from 1.55 to 45, preferably from 2 to 30. better from 5 to 20.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises glycerine.

17. Cosmetic treatment process comprising the application to the keratin materials, preferably the keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, of an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol, one or more volatile oils and one or more non-volatile oils, the weight ratio volatile oil (s) / non-volatile oil (s) being greater than 1, 5.