WO2009071529A1

WO2009071529A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising colouring earths and interference particles

Info

Publication number: WO2009071529A1
Application number: PCT/EP2008/066603
Authority: WO
Inventors: Guillaume Cassin
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2007-12-06
Filing date: 2008-12-02
Publication date: 2009-06-11
Also published as: FR2924598B1; FR2924598A1

Abstract

A subject-matter of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least interference particles, the mean size by volume of which is less or equal than 40 μm, preferably less than 40μm and at least one colouring earth. Another subject-matter of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above in order to obtain a lightening and/or homogenizing effect on the skin and/or lips.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising colouring earths and interference particles

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions intended for making up and/or caring for the skin and lips comprising colouring earths and specific interference particles.

It is common for people exhibiting dyschromia, such as pigmentary blemishes, rosacea or shadows, on the skin, in particular of the face, to wish to soften these skin defects in order to give unity to their complexion and to obtain a "good appearance" effect. To this end, it is known to use "covering" products which efficiently and immediately conceal imperfections in colour of the skin. However, when these compositions are applied to the skin, the deposited layer obtained is often very opaque and visible and exhibits a pronounced dusty appearance which is not similar to the natural grain of the skin: such makeup looks unnatural.

In order to obtain a "good appearance" effect, it is also possible to introduce self-tanning agents (DHA) into cosmetic compositions. However, an immediate effect "of radiance of the complexion" is not observed from their application to the skin. Other alternative compositions have already been provided in order to respond to this need.

A first alternative takes advantage of fluorescent compounds, such as optical brighteners. However, these compounds only provide an immediate lightening effect under optimum lighting conditions generally far better than those provided by natural light or ordinary lighting.

A second alternative is targeted at using "interference" pigments, that is to say pigments capable of providing a different coloured highlight according to their angle of observation. Unfortunately, these compositions generally have the disadvantage of providing, at the same time, a shiny appearance which is thus not in accordance with the natural flesh tints of the skin. Furthermore, these interference pigments are generally employed under conditions such that the corresponding cosmetic composition provides an excessively imperfect coloured and/or covering effect which thus masks the natural appearance of the skin. Such compositions are described in particular in the documents WO 01/51017 and US 5 690 916. Consequently, there remains a need for a cosmetic composition which makes it possible to provide a "good appearance" effect which lightens and/or gives uniformity to the complexion while retaining the natural flesh tints of the skin in terms of colour and/or of lustre.

The inventors have demonstrated that it is possible to formulate such a cosmetic composition, that is to say a composition having a "good appearance" effect and/or an effect of rendering the complexion uniform, subject to the choice of specific interference particles.

According to a first aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least interference particles, the mean size by volume of which is less or equal than 40 μm, preferably less than 40μm and at least one colouring earth.

According to a second aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is a method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips comprising at least the application, to the skin and/or lips, of a composition as defined above.

According to a third aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above in obtaining a "good appearance" effect which lightens and/or gives uniformity to the skin and/or lips.

The inventors have thus demonstrated that a selection of specific interference particles and their combination with a colouring earth advantageously makes it possible to obtain an effect of makeup having a transparency and a "good appearance" effect and/or an effect of rendering uniform which are improved with regard to conventional compositions.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "transparency" is understood to characterize the fact that the makeup and/or care effect provided by the said composition on the skin has virtually no effect, indeed even no effect at all, on the natural flesh tints of the latter. Thus, the compositions according to the invention have the advantage of not conferring a covering or shiny appearance and thus of retaining, as best as possible, the natural flesh tints of the skin on which they are applied. The compositions according to the invention thus differ from conventional foundation compositions comprising in particular synthetic pigments which generally affect the natural flesh tints of the skin by darkening or significantly modifying its natural colouring or, conversely, by lightening the latter to an excessively great extent, or also by conferring an excessively shiny appearance thereon.

Interference particles

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one "interference" particle, the mean size by volume of which is less or equal than 40 μm, preferably less than 40μm.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression "interference particles" denotes any particle having a structure which makes possible the creation of an effect of colour by interference of the light rays which diffract and scatter differently according to the nature of the layers. Thus, these particles can exhibit colours which vary according to the angle of observation and the incidence of the light.

These particles can have a multilayer structure.

Within the meaning of the present invention, a multilayer structure is intended to denote, without distinction, a structure formed of a substrate covered with a single layer or a structure formed of a substrate covered with at least two, indeed even several, consecutive layers.

The multilayer structure can thus comprise one layer, indeed even at least two layers, each layer, independently or not of the other layer(s), being made of at least one material chosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF₂, CeF₃, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO₂, Ge, Te, Fe₂O₃, Pt, Va, AI₂O₃, MgO, Y₂O₃, S₂O₃, SiO, HfO₂, ZrO₂, CeO₂, Nb₂O₅, Ta₂O₅, TiO₂, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS₂, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations.

Generally, the multilayer structure is of inorganic nature.

More particularly, the interference particles under consideration according to the invention can be interference pigments or also natural or synthetic and monolayer or multilayer pearlescent agents, in particular formed of a natural substrate based, inter alia, on mica which is covered with one or more layers of metal oxide.

The interference particles according to the invention are characterized by a mean size by volume generally of less or equal than 40 μm, preferably less than 40μm, more particularly of less than 30 μm, in particular of less than 20 μm and especially of less than 15 μm, measured with a laser particle sizer, such as, for example, the Mastersizer 2000^® from Malvernet or the BI90 +^® from Brookhaven Instrument Corporation.

In particular, these interference particles can have a mean size by volume ranging from 0.1 to 40 μm, preferably from 0.5 to 30 μm, more preferably from 1 to 20 μm and more preferably still from 1 to 15 μm.

The monolayer structures which may be suitable for the implementation of the present invention can be platelet particles with a mean size by volume of less or equal than 40 μm, preferably less than 40μm of boron nitride or of bismuth oxychloride. Mention may be made, for example, of the boron nitrides sold under the names PUHP 1030L and PUHP 3008 by St Gobain Ceramics or Soft Touch Powder CC6058 by Advanced Ceramic. Mention may also be made of the bismuth oxychlorides sold under the names Biron LF2000 and Biron ESQ by Merck or Biju Ultra UFC by Engelhard.

The pearlescent agents exhibiting a multilayer structure of mica/tin oxide/titanium oxide type, such as, for example, those sold under the names Timiron Silk Blue^®, Timiron Silk Red^®, Timiron Silk Green^®, Timiron Silk Gold^® and Timiron Super Silk^® by Merck, and mica/iron oxide/titanium oxide pearlescent agents, such as, for example, Flamenco Satin Blue^®, Flamenco Satin Red^® and Flamenco Satin Violet^® provided by Engelhard, and their mixtures, are very particularly suitable for the invention.

It is understood that the choice of these interference particles is made so as to be furthermore compatible with the requirements in terms of brightness and of saturation required for the compositions according to the invention. Generally, these interference particles are present in an amount sufficient to produce a homogeneous effect in terms of colouring while retaining the natural flesh tints of the skin and/or lips. More specifically, these particles can be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 0.5 to 5% by weight.

Colouring earths

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one colouring earth.

1. General definition

The term "colouring earths" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present patent application, composite particles, existing in a natural state, which comprise a colouring mineral part (natural pigments) and a noncolouring mineral part (natural fillers).

These colouring earths can, for the purpose of being incorporated in cosmetic compositions according to the invention, form the subject of a number of transformations, in particular after extraction, which will be described in detail subsequently.

In the present patent application, the terms "mineral" and "inorganic" are employed without distinction.

The colouring earths used in the context of the present invention can be pulverulent natural mineral compounds composed of natural "fillers" in which "pigments" are dispersed, which pigments can be natural or of natural origin.

These colouring earths are preferably of natural origin. However, they can be manufactured industrially, the essential point being, in the latter case, that they exhibit a structure identical or similar to composite structures of natural origin (that is to say, comprising a colouring mineral part and a noncolouring mineral part) and that, for this reason, they exhibit identical or similar physicochemical properties to the colouring earths.

Preferably, the term "colouring earths" does not encompass particles which are covered or coated with a layer or several layers of pigments on their surface. The term "natural filler" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present patent application, noncolouring mineral particles.

The term "natural pigment" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present patent application, colouring mineral particles.

The term "colouring mineral part" is understood to mean particles coloured throughout their bulk "capable of conferring a colour" other than white on the composition in which they are found. The composition comprising "colouring mineral particles" is capable of colouring the support on which it is applied. Thus, the composition obtained is colouring and preferably coloured. The term "colouring particles" is thus understood to mean particles capable of colouring the support on which they are applied.

The colouring mineral particles exhibit a colour other than white. They are insoluble in the other ingredients of the cosmetic composition and are intended to colour and opacify the film of cosmetic composition deposited on the keratinous substances.

The term "noncolouring mineral part" or "natural fillers" is understood to mean colourless or white particles of lamellar or nonlamellar shape. These particles do not confer colour (other than white) on the composition in which they are found. Thus, the composition comprising solely noncolouring particles is neither coloured nor colouring. The term "noncolouring particles" is thus understood to mean particles which do not colour the support on which they are applied in a colour other than white.

2. Pigments and fillers of natural origin

The colouring earths may have formed the subject of transformations, it being possible for these transformations to be:

1 ) transformations which do not modify the composition of the starting material with respect to its origin apart optionally from its water content. These transformations essentially bring about modifications to the physical appearance of the ingredient with respect to its origin. Examples of transformations coming within this category are:

- washing,

- crushing, - grinding, - drying,

- freeze drying,

- processes for preservation by heating (hermetic sterilization, pasteurization),

- processes for preservation by pressure (pascalization),

- the addition of preservatives of plant origin being accepted.

2) In the case of mineral materials, the transformation processes can be as follows:

- processes targeted at purifying or slightly modifying the starting material without significantly modifying its crystal structure or its composition,

- distillation, - purification processes (removal of heavy metals, of organic compounds, and the like),

- ion exchange processes,

- processes for purification by passing over active charcoal, over oxides or over resin, - processes for preservation by heating,

- processes for preservation by pressure (pascalization),

3) for ingredients of mineral origin: processes which make it possible to obtain materials by dissolution/reprecipitation of mineral entities, resulting in simple oxides or structured oxides (zeolites, mesoporous materials, and the like),

4) transformations for a functionalization, in particular amination, nitration, silylation or carboxylation, using catalysts of mineral or biological origin, and also biotransformations by genetically modified organisms, the function of which does or does not correspond to the original reaction, and processes giving rise to the synthesis of mixtures of oxides.

3. Categorization of the colouring earths The colouring earths which may be suitable for the present invention can be categorized according to their colour, according to their geographical origin or according to their chemical composition.

The colouring earths according to the invention are preferably composite particles, the colouring mineral part of which comprises iron, preferably in the oxidized form.

In particular, the colouring earths can comprise between 3% and 95% by weight of iron oxide, expressed as ferric oxide Fe₂O₃, preferably between 5 and 80% by weight and more preferably between 5 and 65% by weight.

In the literature, the term "ochre" is sometimes used to denote certain colouring earths. In principle, the term "ochre" should denote a subcategory of colouring earths comprising a fairly low iron oxide content. In practice, the term "ochre" is used in the same way as the term "colouring earth", without the iron oxide content being specified.

The various natural iron oxides are identified in particular according to Standard NFT 36.001 of 1988. The following in particular are distinguished: natural yellow iron oxides (Pigment Yellow 43), which are identified by the references of the Colour Index C.I. 77492: they are hydrated iron oxides (goethite, lepidocrocite), natural red iron oxides (Pigment Red 102) which are identified by the references of the Colour Index C.I. 77491 : they are natural iron sesquioxides of the haematite type, and natural black iron oxides (Pigment Black 11 ) which are identified by the references of the Colour Index C.I. 77499: they are magnetites charged with phosphorus and sulphur.

The most ubiquitous iron oxides in the earths can in particular be in the hydrated form, known as goethite (yellow iron oxide), or in the anhydrous form, known as haematite (red iron oxide). Haematite exists in the native state and it can also be obtained after calcination of goethite. It is thus possible, depending on the operating conditions of the calcination process, to vary the goethite/haematite ratio in order to obtain a range of colours of the colouring earth varying from light yellow to red. The colouring earths can also comprise coloured metal oxides other than iron oxide, such as manganese oxide or aluminium oxide.

The colouring earths according to the invention are preferably composite particles, the noncolouring mineral part of which can be chosen from clay, gypsum, calcite, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, quartz, alumina hydrate, silica, kaolinite and their mixtures.

As described above, the colouring earths according to the present invention can be categorized according to their colour. It is possible to distinguish yellow earths, red earths, green earths, brown earths or black earths.

Yellow earths

The main ingredient of yellow earths is yellow iron oxide. Mention may be made, among yellow earths present in the native state, of:

- yellow earths originating from Italy, such as natural sienna, yellow earths originating from France, such as stonewares of the "Puisaye ochre" type,

- yellow earths originating from America, - ochre from the United Kingdom (English yellow ochre) or Oxford ochre, has not been extracted for a long time,

- yellow ochre earths from Spain.

The varieties of yellow ochre with the greatest reputation originated from the Yonne and other regions of the northern half of France but also from the south of France (Vaucluse).

For example, the yellow ochre from the Vaucluse is composed of quartz, kaolinite (clay) and natural yellow iron oxide.

Natural yellow ochre can be washed (levigation process). Ochre is very often removed in sandy soils. It is therefore necessary to separate the ochre from the sand. The thinned material is subsequently recovered in settling tanks, then dried or treated, as indicated above, by levigation, and ground. Red earths

Mention may be made, as example of red colouring earths, without implied limitation, of red ochre from the Vaucluse, Venetian red, Indian red and English red.

According to the literature, Venetian red, Indian red and English red are all highly colouring opaque reds. The intensity of their red is much greater than that of the red from the Vaucluse. English red is a red iron oxide with the addition of sodium polysulphide aluminosilicate, hence its rather purplish appearance. Indian red is very similar to English red, to such an extent that it is difficult to distinguish them according to the different manufactures. Some varieties are covering and colouring.

Other examples of red colouring earths are burnt sienna, Pozzuoli red (terra rosa from Pozzuoli, a town close to Naples), Ercolano red (Italy), Falun red (town in Sweden having a deposit) or Armenian bole (red colouring earth also described as red ochre).

Green colouring earths

The green earths comprise complex silicates, such as: - glauconite: complex silicate of aluminium and of potassium comprising iron, which largely replaces the aluminium, and

- celadonite: silicate of aluminium, of magnesium and of sodium comprising iron. The green colouring earths can also comprise copper.

Brown earths or umbers

In the noncalcined state, umbers exhibit a blue-green colour. Their calcined varieties give a dark brown close to a chocolate brown. The calcination brings about a dehydration similar to that which occurs when a yellow earth is baked in order to obtain an earth which is red in colour.

Cologne umber and Cyprus umber are the greenest. Several other varieties originate from the Vaucluse (France). There also exist deposits in Umbria, a province in Italy situated to the south of Tuscany and to the north of Latium.

The colouring earths used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are described in particular in the work entitled "Les cahiers de Terres et Couleurs" [The Registers of Earths and Colours] (new edition No. 3, February 1998) produced by the Centre de Recherche et de Restauration des Musees de France [Centre for Research and Restoration of the Museums of France].

The colouring earths described above also comprise at least a noncolouring mineral part or filler, such as, for example, clay (kaolinite), gypsum (calcium sulphate), calcite (calcium carbonate), magnesium carbonate, quartz (crystalline silica), alumina hydrate or one of their mixtures.

In particular, the colouring earths which are particularly suitable for the present invention comprise at least a colouring mineral part and at least a noncolouring mineral part, the colouring mineral part being integral with at least one of the constituents of the noncolouring mineral part. Preferably, the colouring mineral part is homogeneously dispersed inside the matrix formed by the noncolouring mineral part.

The colouring earths within the meaning of the present invention cannot be replaced by a mixture of a colouring mineral part and of a noncolouring mineral part (i.e., a mixture of pigments and of fillers, which may be natural or synthetic). The intrinsic properties of colouring earths result from the specific association between the colouring mineral part and the noncolouring mineral part. This specific association is related to the geological history of the soil from which the colouring earth is extracted.

According to a preferred embodiment, the particles constituting the colouring mineral part can exhibit a mean size, measured by scanning electron microscopy, of less than or equal to 1.7 μm and in particular ranging from 0.05 μm to 1.7 μm, preferably from 0.1 μm to 1.5 μm.

4. Removal of the colouring earths

The colouring earths used in the context of the present invention can be removed from their natural source and subjected to various purification treatments, such as washing, or grinding. They can be used crude or calcined.

It is also possible to provide, after the removal of the earth and before the various purification stages, a stage which consists in separating the large particles collected from the smaller ones, the smaller ones being generally the richest in colouring earths and the larger ones being composed of the minerals present in the soil or rock where the colouring earth was removed.

The colouring earths can be washed. The washing of an earth corresponds to a process known as "levigation". According to a washing process, for thirty minutes, an amount of earth is marinated in three times its volume of water in a closed container. The lid is preferably separated from the liquid by a distance of at least three centimetres. The mixture subsequently has to be left for a few seconds before being decanted. The impurities and even the large clayey lumps should be left at the bottom of the first container. The operation can be repeated while increasing, on each occasion, the marinating time. The mixture is subsequently dried and optionally ground.

The composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1 % to 100% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition, of colouring earth, preferably from 1 to 99% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight and more preferably still from 1 to 20% by weight.

The composition according to the invention can comprise colouring earths and interference particles in a content such that the colouring earths/interference particles ratio by weight is greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8 and more preferably greater than or equal to 1.

Additional natural compounds

In addition to the colouring earths described above, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one other additional natural compound or additional compound of natural origin. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "natural compound" is understood to mean:

- compounds of biological agricultural plant or wild plant origin with carefully thought- out sampling, - compounds of agricultural plant origin or originating from the kingdom Protista,

- compounds of nonfossil mineral origin,

- compounds of animal origin, preferably compounds secreted by animals (beeswax).

The compounds "of natural origin" are natural compounds which have been subjected to transformations, it being possible for these transformations to be:

1) the transformations described above for the colouring earths,

2) processes targeted at extracting, in the case of ingredients of plant origin, a given fraction of the plant without breaking covalent chemical bonds, which encompasses the following processes:

- expression,

- pressing, - flash vacuum-expansion processes,

- distillation,

- processes in which extraction is carried out with water (decoction, infusion, maceration),

- processes in which extraction is carried out with ethanol (including enfleurage), - processes in which extraction is carried out with supercritical CO₂,

- the above extraction processes using microwave heating,

- steam distillation,

- purification processes,

- purification processes based on the preceding technologies, - processes for purification by passing over active charcoal, over oxides or over resin,

- winterization processes, - biotransformations applied to starting materials of plant origin which are catalysed by genetically unmodified organisms, the original function of which corresponds to the targeted reaction,

- processes for preservation by pressure (pascalization) or by addition of preservatives of plant origin,

- genetic extraction processes which do not come within this category and processes for preservation by irradiation.

3) transformations by a chemical process bringing about a minor modification, and in particular as regards compounds of plant origin:

- extraction with an organic solvent (hexane, fluorinated ethers, or other),

- hydrolysis,

- esterification,

- oxidation using oxygen as oxidizing agent, - hydrogenations of olefins,

- hydrogenations of acids and esters,

- etherifications,

- the Guerbet reaction (intermolecular reaction between alcohols similar to a "cooking" process), and, for ingredients of nonfossil mineral origin: processes which make it possible to obtain materials by dissolution/reprecipitation of mineral entities resulting in simple oxides or structured oxides (zeolites, mesoporous materials, and the like).

According to a specific embodiment of the invention, a compound is regarded as natural or of natural origin when it is predominantly composed of natural constituents, that is to say when the ratio by weight of the natural constituents to the nonnatural constituents of which it is composed is greater than 1.

Mention may be made, as an example of additional natural colouring materials, of earths composed of organic compounds, such as in particular bituminous earths, such as Cassel earth, which originates from Germany.

The compositions of the invention can comprise more than 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of natural compounds or compounds of natural origin (including the abovementioned earths). In particular, the compositions according to the invention can comprise from 50 to 100% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of natural compounds or compounds of natural origin, preferably from 70% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 80% to 95% by weight.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention can be composed exclusively of natural compounds or compounds of natural origin.

Physiologically acceptable medium

The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" denotes a nontoxic medium capable of being applied to the skin of human beings. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the skin on which the composition has to be applied and to the form under which the composition is intended to be packaged, in particular fluid form at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one aqueous phase. The aqueous phase comprises in particular water.

It can also comprise a mixture of water and of water-miscible organic solvent (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, C₃-C₄ ketones and C₂-C₄ aldehydes. Mention may be made, as example of monoalcohol suitable for the implementation of the invention, of saturated hydrocarbon compounds comprising a single hydroxyl functional group and comprising from 2 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 4 to 12 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, as example of monoalcohol suitable for the invention, without implied limitation, of ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol and dodecanol.

The term "polyhydroxylated solvent" is intended to cover any hydrocarbon compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functional groups and comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

The hydrocarbon chains can, if appropriate, be interrupted by the presence of at least one heteroatom and in particular an oxygen atom.

The polyol suitable for the implementation of the present invention can be chosen in particular from saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic alcohols.

Thus, the polyol can be chosen, for example, from a diol, a triol, a tetraol or a pentaol or one of their esters.

The polyol can be a diol or one of its esters, for example chosen from a fatty alcohol dimer, a mono- or polyglycerol, a mono- or poly(C_2-4 alkylene) glycol, 1 ,4-butanediol and pentaerythritol.

Mention may be made, nonexhaustively, as example of diol which can also be suitable for the implementation of the invention, of butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, undecanediol, dodecane- diol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octa- decenediol, cyclohexanediol, 1 ,1 '-oxydipropanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, phytantriol (3,7,11 ,15-tetramethyl-1 ,2,3-trihydroxyhexadecane), ethylene glycol, xylene glycol and their isomers.

A mixture based at least on ethanol and on propylene glycol or on dipropylene glycol or on butylene glycol is very particularly suitable as mixture.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally water-miscible organic solvent(s)) can be present at a content ranging from 1 % to 99% by weight, in particular ranging from 3% to 80% by weight and especially ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

Fatty phase

The composition according to the invention can comprise a fatty phase and in particular at least one fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and/or one fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures.

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention can in particular comprise, as liquid fatty substance, at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil or one of their mixtures.

The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a nonzero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.01 to 300 mmHg (1.33 Pa to 40 000 Pa) and preferably greater than 0.3 mmHg (30 Pa).

The term "nonvolatile oil" is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa).

These volatile or nonvolatile oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils or their mixtures. The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur or phosphorus atoms.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes, such as C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar^® or Permethyl^® trade names, branched C₈-C₁₆ esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt^® by Shell, can also be used.

Use may also be made, as volatile oils, of volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity < 8 centistokes

(8 x 10^"6 m²/s) and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexa- siloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures.

The volatile oil can be present in a composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1 % to 98% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 65% by weight and especially from 1 % to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The nonvolatile oils can in particular be chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon, fluorinated and/or silicone oils. Mention may in particular be made, as nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, of: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C₄ to C₂₄, it being possible for these chains to be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkinseed, cucumber, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower or musk rose oils; shea butter; or triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818^® by Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane and their mixtures, synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RiCOOR₂ in which R₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R₁ + R₂ is > 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C₁₂ to C₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, or heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol, higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures.

The nonvolatile silicone oils which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) which are nonvolatile, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendent alkyl or alkoxy groups and/or alkyl or alkoxy groups at the silicone chain end, which groups each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The nonvolatile oils can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 85% by weight and especially from 1 to 70% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

More generally, the liquid fatty substance can be present in a proportion of 0.01 to 90% by weight and in particular of 0.1 to 85% by weight, with respect to the weight of the fatty phase.

As regards the fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, it can be chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures. This solid fatty substance can be present in a proportion of 0.01 to 50% by weight, in particular of 0.1 to 40% by weight and especially of 0.2 to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the fatty phase.

Thus, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one fatty compound which is pasty at ambient temperature.

The term "pasty fatty substance" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 to 55°C, preferably from 25 to 45°C, and/or a viscosity at 40⁰C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. s (1 to 400 poises), preferably from 0.5 to 25 Pa. s, measured with a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz. A person skilled in the art can choose, from the MS-r3 and MS-r4 spindles, on the basis of his general knowledge, the spindle which makes it possible to measure the viscosity, so as to be able to carry out the measurement of the pasty compound tested.

Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of polymer type; they can also be chosen from silicone compounds; they can also be provided in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and/or silicone compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, use is predominantly made, preferably, of pasty hydrocarbon compounds (comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups).

Mention may be made, among the pasty compounds capable of being used in a composition according to the invention, of lanolins and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolins, oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa. s, preferably of 19 to 20.5 Pa. s, and/or a melting point of 30 to 55°C, and their mixtures. Use may also be made of esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, in particular those having from 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 to 35°C and/or viscosity at 40⁰C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. s), such as triisostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate); cholesterol esters, such as triglycerides of vegetable origin, for example hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and their mixtures. Use may be made, as triglyceride of vegetable origin, of derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, such as "Thixinr" from Rheox.

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with high molecular weights and in particular those having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and a melting point of 20-55⁰C, such as stearyl dimethicones, in particular those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503^® and DC25514^®, and their mixtures.

The pasty fatty substance can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 45% by weight and better still ranging from 0.2 to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition.

The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise a wax. The wax can be solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change in state, having a melting point of greater than 30⁰C which can range up to 200⁰C, a hardness of greater than 0.5 MPa and exhibiting, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization. The wax can be a hydrocarbon, fluorine and/or silicone wax and can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. It can be chosen, for example, from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, silicone waxes, microcrystalline waxes and their mixtures.

In particular, the wax can be present in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion. The wax can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1 % to 30% by weight and especially from 0.2% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Additional colouring materials

The composition can comprise, in addition to the colouring earths and interference particles described above, at least one additional colouring material chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, other than those described above, and/or soluble dyes, with the proviso that these do not affect the expected properties of the composition.

Mention may more particularly be made, by way of illustration and without implied limitation of mineral pigments, of yellow, red or brown metal oxides, such as, for example, iron oxides. Mention may be made, as metal powders, of copper powder.

The pigments employed in the context of the present invention can be used either in their crude form or in a pretreated form, in particular in a form treated at their surface.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of representation of these surface treatments, of that which consists in treating the pigment with a hydrophobic and oil-repelling agent of perfluoroalkyl phosphate derivative type, as described in Patent EP 1 086 683.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of illustration of the pigments which are more particularly suitable in the invention, of brown iron and yellow iron oxides, coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, and alumina-treated titanium oxide, coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, such as, in particular, the pigment pastes sold under the trade names Yellow Iron Oxide Covafluor, PF5 Yellow 601 (yellow) and PF5 R516L (red) by Daito or under the trade names FA50DRF, FA50DYF, FA65DF and FA65DBF by Kobo.

The term "pearlescent agents" should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shells or else synthesized and which exhibit a colour effect by optical interference.

The pearlescent agents other than the interference particles described above can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic dye, in particular of the abovementioned type, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colouring materials.

The pearlescent agents can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown and/or coppery colour or glint.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of illustration of the pearlescent agents which can be employed in the context of the present invention, of pearlescent agents of gold colour sold in particular by Engelhard under the name of Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange pearlescent agents sold in particular by Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by Merck under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-coloured pearlescent agents sold in particular by Engelhard under the names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); pearlescent agents with a copper glint sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); pearlescent agents with a red glint sold in particular by Merck under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); pearlescent agents with a yellow glint sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-coloured pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink pearlescent agents sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Tan Opale G005 (Gemtone); black pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna); white pearlescent agents with a silvery glint sold in particular by Merck under the name Xirona Silver; golden green pinkish orangey pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona); and their mixtures.

The soluble dyes can be fat-soluble or water-soluble. They can be synthetic or natural and organic or mineral.

The synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes are, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21 , DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β- carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto or curcumin.

The synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes are, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 , betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (oenocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel or riboflavin.

The dyes can also be chosen from juglone, lawsone, extracts of fermented soybean, of algae, of fungi or of microorganisms, flavylium salts unsubstituted in the 3 position, such as, for example, those described in Patent EP 1 172 091 , extracts of Gesneria fulgens, Blechum procerum or Saxifraga, and pigments capable of being obtained by extraction with an organic or aqueous/organic solvent of a culture medium of micromycetes of the Monascus type.

Fillers

The composition according to the invention can also comprise fillers.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "filler" denotes any material composed of spherical or nonspherical and porous or nonporous particles which are insoluble in the compositions according to the invention.

These fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders formed of polyamide (Nylon^®), (Orgasol^® from Atochem), of poly-β-alanine and of polyethylene, powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon^®) polymers, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres, such as those of poly(vinylidene chloride)/acrylonitrile, for example Expancel^® (Nobel Industrie), of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap^® from Dow Corning) or of poly(methyl methacrylate) (Covabead from Wacker), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls^® from Toshiba, for example), particles of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate and their mixtures.

According to a specific embodiment, the fillers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention have a particle size, expressed by volume, comparable to that of the interference particles. This makes it possible to confer a mattifying aspect on the composition, thus reinforcing the effect of rendering the complexion uniform conferred by the compositions according to the invention.

Thus, the fillers advantageously exhibit a size by volume of less or equal than 40 μm, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 40 μm, preferably from 1 to 30 μm and more preferably still from 1 to 15 μm.

Generally, the composition according to the invention can comprise various fillers of mineral or organic origin. These fillers can be of any shape, in particular platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever their crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like).

According to a specific embodiment, these fillers are spherical.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of illustration of the fillers which are suitable for the invention, of talc, mica, kaolin, colloidal silica, poly-β-alanine, polyethylene, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, barium sulphate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, porous silica microparticles, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, powders formed of acrylic copolymers, in particular of poly(methyl (meth)acrylate), hollow PMMA spheres, vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate microspheres which are expanded, wax powders, powders formed of polyethylene, in particular comprising at least one ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer and especially composed of ethylene/acrylic acid copolymers, powders formed of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer which are coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, composite powders formed of talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/silica, polyamide (Nylon^®) powders, poly(allyl methacrylate)/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate microspheres and their mixtures. As specified above, the filler under consideration according to the invention is present in an amount sufficient to provide improved spatial homogenization of the highlight provided by the associated interference particles.

For obvious reasons, this amount is capable of varying significantly according to the nature and/or the particle size of the filler or of the mixture of fillers.

Generally, the filler can be present in a proportion of less than 15% by weight, in particular in a proportion of less than 10% by weight and especially less than 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Film-forming polymer

The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one film- forming polymer.

In the present patent application, the term "film-forming polymer" is understood to mean a polymer capable of forming, by itself alone or in the presence of an additional agent which is able to form a film, a continuous and adherent film on the skin and/or lips.

Use is preferably made of a film-forming polymer capable of forming a hydrophobic film, that is to say a polymer for which the film has a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 1 % by weight.

The compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise conventional adjuvants, such as dyes, pigments, optical brighteners, fragrances, preservatives, physical and chemical sunscreens, sequestering agents, pH adjusters (acids or bases) and their mixtures. Of course, the choice of the adjuvants is made so as not to prejudice the effects desired through the application of the composition according to the invention to the skin and/or lips.

Mention may in particular be made of all the active principles known for their activity with regard to ageing of the skin, such as keratolytic or prodesquamating agents, for example α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, α-keto acids, β-keto acids, retinoids and their esters, retinal, or retinoic acid and its derivatives. Mention may also be made of vitamins, such as, for example, vitamins B3 or PP, B5, E and K1 , and the derivatives of these vitamins and in particular their esters; agents for combating free radicals; sunscreens; moisturizing agents, such as polyols; ceramides; DHEA and its derivatives; coenzyme Q10; whitening and depigmenting agents, such as kojic acid, vitamin C and its derivatives, para-aminophenol derivatives, arbutin and its derivatives, adenosine and its derivatives, C-glycosides (pro- xylane) and their derivatives, and their mixtures.

Formulation forms

The composition according to the invention can be provided in the form of a formulation, in particular to be applied to the face or the neck, of a concealer, of a complexion corrector, of a makeup cream or base for the face or of a care or makeup composition for the body or lips.

More particularly, it is a care and/or makeup product intended for the skin, in particular of the face.

The composition according to the invention can be provided in a solid form, for example a pulverulent, compacted or cast form or in the stick form, or in the form of a fluid, for example pasty or liquid.

Advantageously, it is provided in a fluid form of the following types: soft paste, ointment or salve which is solid or fluid, such as a cream. For example, it can be a serum (thickened aqueous solution), an aqueous gel or an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion but also an oil- water-oil, glycol-oil-water or water-oil-water multiple emulsion.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is provided in the form of an emulsion or of a loose or compacted powder.

The composition can be manufactured by known processes generally used in the cosmetics field.

The example which appears below is presented by way of illustration and without implied limitation of the scope of the invention.

Example 1 : Cosmetic composition

A care composition was prepared which has the following formulation:

A- Glyceryl mono- and distearate/poly- ethylene glycol (100 EO) stearate mixture, sold under the trade name 2.00 g Arlacel 165Fl by Uniqema

Mixture of di(linear Ci₄-Ci₅ alkyl) tartrate, of cetearyl alcohol and of oxyethylenated

(25 EO)/oxypropylenated (25 PO) lauryl 1.5O g alcohol, sold under the trade name

Cosmacol PSE by Sasol

Cyclohexasiloxane

10.0O g

Stearyl alcohol 1.00 g

B- Water 69.75 g

Phenoxyethanol

1.0O g

Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) salt 0.05 g

Crosslinked AMPS copolymer, sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS

0.4O g by Clariant

Xanthan gum 0.20 g C- Red colouring earth (Ercolano red) 2.00 g

Hollow hemispherical silicone particles, sold under the trade name NLK 506^® by 3.00 g Takemoto Oil and Fat

Mica/titanium oxide/tin oxide pearlescent

1.0O g agent

Procedure:

The phase B is heaten at 75°C, then the crosslinked AMPS copolymer is added, and then the preparation is shaken under obtaining an homogeneous gel.

The phase A is heaten at 75°C, then the emulsion is formed by adding the phase A to the phase B under shaking.

The temperature is then reduced until 40-45⁰C, then the phase C is added and the preparation is maintained under shaking under complete cooling.

The composition obtained is applied to the skin of the face. The deposited layer is matt and homogeneous.

Example 2: Measure of transparency of compositions

We measured the transparency of a composition comprising the association of colouring earths with pearlescent agents (example A according to the invention) and a composition comprising the association of pigments with pearlescent agents (comparative example B).

Formulation of examples

Example A : A- Glyceryl stearate (et) PEG-100 stearate : 2.0O g Dimyristyl tartrate (et) cetearyl alcohol (et) C12-15 pareth-7 (et) PPG-25 laureth-25: 1.50 g

Cyclohexasiloxane : 10.0O g

Stearylic alcohol : 1.0O g

B- Water : 69.75 g

Phenoxyethanol : 1.0O g

Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphate : 0.05 g

Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide: 0.40 g

Xanthan gum : 0.20 g

C- Earth colouring (CI77491 and calcium sulfate sold under the tradename

Rosso ERCOLANO by Dolci Colori SRL) 3.00 g

Pearlescent agent (Timiron silk red by Merck): 1.00 g

Example B :

A- Glyceryl stearate (et) PEG-100 stearate : 2.00 g Dimyristyl tartrate (et) cetearyl alcohol (et) C12-15 pareth-7 (et) PPG-25 laureth-25: 1.50 g

Cyclohexasiloxane : 10.0O g

Stearylic alcohol: 1.00 g

B- Water : 69.75 g

Phenoxyethanol : 1.0O g

Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphate : 0.05 g

Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide: 0.40 g Xanthan gum : 0.20 g

C- Red iron oxide (Cl: 77491) 3.0O g

Pearlescent agent (Timiron silk red by Merck) 1.00 g

Protocole of preparation:

The examples A and B are prepared as following :

- the phase B is heaten at around 75°C and the Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide is added; then the preparation is shaken under obtaining an homogeneous gel;

- the phase A is heaten at around 75°C.

- the emulsion is formed by adding the phase A to the phase B.

- at 40-45⁰C, the phase C is added and then the preparation is shaked under complete cooling.

Measure of transparency of said compositions

Each composition is spreaded on a transparent film (Hp Color laser jet transparency, Hp Invent ; CP2936A) by using an automatic applicator sold by Braive instruments (50 μm thickness). The films are the put inside a thermostated and ventilated steam room during 24hours at 37°C.

After the films are dried, they are put down a contrast card (Prufkarte type 24/5 - 250 cm2 sold by Erichsen) for evaluation. The opacity was then measured by using a colorimeter Minolta CR-400, with values Y corresponding to black zones and white zones related to the tristimular system (X, Y, Z). The opacity value is obtained by the following equation :

(Yn/Yb)* 100 = Opacity % wherein Yn is the mean value of Y on black zone and Yb is the mean value of Y on white zone.

We talk about opacity or covering power. The higher is the ratio, the more important is the covering power.

We then deduce a transparency value expressed in % TR= 100- % Opacity.

Results

For the composition A (according to the invention), we obtained % TR= 80.6. For the composition B (comparative example), we obtained % TR= 57.2.

These results showed that, at equal amount, the colouring earths in association with pearlescent agents, gave a result with less opacity than the pigments (iron oxydes) in association with pearlescent agents, so a better transparency.

The use of colouring earths in association with pearlescent agents permit, in comparison with the use of pigments in association with pearlescent agents, to obtain composition which makes it possible to provide a "good appearance" effect which lightens and/or gives uniformity to the complexion while retaining the natural flesh tints of the skin in terms of colour and/or of lustre.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least interference particles, the mean size by volume of which is less or equal than 40 μm, preferably less than 40μm and at least one colouring earth.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the colouring earths are natural compounds or compounds of natural origin.

3. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the colouring earths are composite particles comprising a colouring mineral part which comprises iron, preferably in the oxidized form.

4. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the iron is present in the colouring earth in a content ranging from 3% to 95% by weight of iron oxide, expressed as ferric oxide Fe₂O₃, preferably from 5 to 80% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 65% by weight.

5. Composition according to either one of Claims 4 and 5, characterized in that the colouring earths comprise coloured metal oxides other than iron oxide, such as manganese oxide or aluminium oxide.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring earths are chosen from yellow earths, red earths, green earths, brown earths or umbers and their mixtures.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring earth comprises a noncolouring mineral part chosen from clay, gypsum, calcite, magnesium carbonate, quartz, alumina hydrate and their mixtures.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring earths comprise at least a colouring mineral part and at least a noncolouring mineral part, the colouring mineral part being integral with at least one of the constituents of the noncolouring mineral part.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the interference particles have a mean size by volume ranging from 0.1 to 40 μm, preferably from 0.5 to 30 μm, more preferably from 1 to 20 μm and more preferably still from 1 to 15 μm.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the interference particles are chosen from pearlescent agents and interference pigments.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the interference particles comprise at least pearlescent agents of mica/tin oxide/titanium oxide type and/or of mica/iron oxide/titanium oxide type.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 15% by weight and in particular less than 7% by weight of interference particles, with respect to its total weight.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a filler chosen from talc, mica, kaolin, colloidal silica, poly-β-alanine, polyethylene, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, barium sulphate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and their mixtures.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring earths/interference particles ratio by weight is greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8 and more preferably greater than or equal to 1.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous phase.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said composition comprises at least one fatty phase.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is provided in the form of an emulsion or of a loose or compacted powder.

18. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims in order to obtain a lightening and/or homogenizing effect on the skin and/or lips.

19. Cosmetic use of a composition as defined in Claims 1 to 17 for the concealing of cutaneous dyschromia.

20. Method for making up the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least the application to the said skin and/or the lips of a composition as defined in Claims 1 to 17.