WO2009047106A1

WO2009047106A1 - Hair conditioner comprising polyolefin particles and a silicone

Info

Publication number: WO2009047106A1
Application number: PCT/EP2008/062607
Authority: WO
Inventors: Timothy John Madden; Andrew Malcolm Murray; Angela Barbara Thomas
Original assignee: Unilever Plc; Unilever N.V.; Hindustan Unilever Limited
Priority date: 2007-10-11
Filing date: 2008-09-22
Publication date: 2009-04-16
Also published as: AR068777A1; WO2009047106A8; TW200932280A

Abstract

Conditioning shampoo composition comprising from 0.5% wt. silicone having a molecular weight of from 600 000 cps to 3 000 000 and polyolefin particles.

Description

HAIR CONDITIONER COMPRISING POLYOLEFIN PARTICLES AND A SILICONE

The present invention relates to a conditioning shampoo composition. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for conditioning hair.

Conditioning shampoo compositions are well known. They impart a conditioning effect through the deposition of a conditioning agent on to the hair surface.

However, not enough deposition leads to poor conditioning yet too much deposition leads to sensorial negatives which are unattractive to the consumer. These negatives include clumping and loss of clean feel.

On the other hand the conditioning effect of silicone has a limited duration due to wear of the silicone film on the hair .

Accordingly, from a consumer's perspective it is not possible to make the conditioning effect of silicone last longer by applying more material to the hair because this will lead to the sensorial negatives.

The present invention provides a conditioning shampoo composition comprising from 0.5% wt . silicone having a viscosity of from 600 000 cst to 3 000 000 and polyolefin particles .

We have surprisingly found that polyolefin particles improve the overall conditioning duration of the high molecular weight silicone without reducing the overall conditioning effect. The effect is not seen with lower molecular weight silicones .

The silicone is present at from 0.5% wt . This is the minimum needed in order to obtain a reasonable conditioning benefit.

The polyolefin may be any polyolefin which is capable of being processed into or manufactured as small particles. It can be straight chain or branched, substituted or unsubstituted.

Preferred polyolefins include polyethylene and polypropylene. Most preferably, the polyolefin is polyethylene.

Preferably, the particles are present at from 0.1 to 10% wt., preferably from 1 to 5% wt . and most preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% wt. of the composition. The level of polyolefin particle is tailored to provide the best enhancement of the conditioning effect of the silicone.

Preferably, the particles have a mean average particle size of from 1 to 10 μm, preferably from 1.5 to 6 μm and most preferably from 3 to 5 μm.

Preferred particles are the spherical particles such as those sold under the Micropoly® brand commercially available from Micro Powders Inc. The composition according to the invention comprises a high molecular weight silicone.

Particularly preferred silicone conditioning agents are silicone emulsions such as those formed from silicones such as polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone, polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol, and amino-functional polydimethyl siloxanes which have the CTFA designation amodimethicone .

The emulsion droplets may typically have a Sauter mean droplet diameter (D₃, ₂) in the composition of the invention ranging from 0.01 to 20 micrometer, more preferably from 0.2 to 10 micrometer.

A suitable method for measuring the Sauter mean droplet diameter (D₃,₂) is by laser light scattering using an instrument such as a Malvern Mastersizer.

Suitable silicone emulsions for use in compositions of the invention are available from suppliers of silicones such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier such as an anionic or nonionic emulsifier, or mixture thereof, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer. Pre- formed silicone emulsions having a Sauter mean droplet diameter (D₃, ₂) of less than 0.15 micrometers are generally termed microemulsions .

Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786 and DC-1788 all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol .

Preferably, the silicone is a polydimethylsiloxane .

Also suitable are silicone emulsions in which certain types of surface active block copolymers of a high molecular weight have been blended with the silicone emulsion droplets, as described for example in WO03/094874. In such materials, the silicone emulsion droplets are preferably formed from polydiorganosiloxanes such as those described above. One preferred form of the surface active block copolymer is according to the following formula:

HO (CH₂CH₂O) _x (CH (CH₃) CH₂O) _y (CH₂CH₂O) _x H

wherein the mean value of x is 4 or more and the mean value of y is 25 or more.

Another preferred form of the surface active block copolymer is according to the following formula:

( HO ( CH₂CH₂O ) _a ( CH ( CH₃ ) CH₂O ) _b ) ₂ -N-CH₂ -CH₂ - N ( ( OCH₂CH ( CH₃ ) ) _b ( OCH₂CH₂ ) _a OH ) ₂ wherein the mean value of a is 2 or more and the mean value of b is 6 or more.

Mixtures of any of the above described silicone emulsions may also be used.

The above described silicone emulsions will generally be present in a composition of the invention at levels of from 0.05 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 5%, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by total weight of silicone based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the silicone and the polyolefin particles ranges from 1:4 to 4:1, more preferably from 1:2 to 2:1 and most preferably from 1.5:1 to 1:1.5.

In a second aspect the present invention provides the use of a composition according to the first aspect of the invention for conditioning hair.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a cationic guar with a charge density of from 0.1 to 1, preferably from 0.2 to 0.8 meq.

Hair care compositions of the invention are generally aqueous, i.e. they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as their major component.

Suitably, the composition will comprise from 50 to 98%, preferably from 60 to 90% water by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Compositions according to the invention will generally comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Examples of suitable anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.

Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.

Preferred anionic cleansing surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate (n) EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (n) EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO (where n is from 10 to 20) .

Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants may also be suitable.

The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant in compositions of the invention generally ranges from 0.5 to 45%, preferably from 1.5 to 35%, more preferably from 5 to 20% by total weight anionic cleansing surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.

Optionally, a composition of the invention may contain further ingredients as described below to enhance performance and/or consumer acceptability.

The composition can include co-surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition.

An example of a co-surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 8%, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention include condensation products of aliphatic (Cs - Cis) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides . Examples include coco mono- or di- ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide .

Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs) . Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:

RO - (G)_n

wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.

R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C₅ to about C20 • Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about Cs to about C12. Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G may be selected from C₅ or Ce monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose.

The degree of polymerisation, n, may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of n lies from about 1.3 to about 1.5.

Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: Oramix NSlO ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel.

Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included in compositions of the invention include the Cio-Cis

N-alkyl (Ci-Cε) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C12- C18 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in WO 92 06154 and US 5 194 639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C10-C18 N- (3-methoxypropyl) glucamide .

A preferred example of a co-surfactant is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0.5 to about 8%, preferably from 1 to 4% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines) , alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate .

A particularly preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine.

Mixtures of any of the foregoing amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may also be suitable. Preferred mixtures are those of cocamidopropyl betaine with further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as described above. A preferred further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium cocoamphoacetate .

The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and/or any emulsifier) in a shampoo composition of the invention is generally from 1 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, more preferably from 10 to 25% by total weight surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymers are preferred ingredients in a shampoo composition of the invention for enhancing conditioning performance .

Suitable cationic polymers may be homopolymers which are cationically substituted or may be formed from two or more types of monomers. The weight average (M_w) molecular weight of the polymers will generally be between 100 000 and 2 million daltons . The polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, then the conditioning effect is poor. If too high, then there may be problems of high extensional viscosity leading to stringiness of the composition when it is poured.

The cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. Thus when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give polymers having a cationic charge density in the required range, which is generally from 0.2 to 3.0 meq/gm. The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined via the Kjeldahl method as described in the US Pharmacopoeia under chemical tests for nitrogen determination.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth) acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl

(meth) acrylamides, alkyl (meth) acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably Cl-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred.

Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerised in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization .

The cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example:

- cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively;

- mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as described in

U.S. Patent 4, 009,256) ;

- cationic polyacrylamides (as described in WO95/22311).

Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives. Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of the invention include monomers of the formula :

A-O-[R-N⁺(R¹) (R²) (R³) X^~

wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof. R¹, R² and R³ independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R¹, R² and R³) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion .

Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from the Amerchol Corporation, for instance under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3, 958, 581) . A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series) . Examples of such materials are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C14, JAGUAR C15 and JAGUAR C17.

Mixtures of any of the above cationic polymers may be used.

Cationic polymer will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the invention at levels of from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.05 to 1%, more preferably from 0.08 to 0.5% by total weight of cationic polymer based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably an aqueous shampoo composition of the invention further comprises a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid- containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives, since these impart pearlescence to the composition. Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used; they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trademark) materials are available from Goodrich.

Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TRl or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu .

Mixtures of any of the above suspending agents may be used. Preferred is a mixture of cross-linked polymer of acrylic acid and crystalline long chain acyl derivative.

Suspending agent will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the invention at levels of from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 6%, more preferably from 0.9 to 4% by total weight of suspending agent based on the total weight of the composition.

A composition of the invention may contain other ingredients for enhancing performance and/or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrance, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents, pearlescers or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, and preservatives or antimicrobials. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to accomplish its purpose. Generally these optional ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 5% by weight of the total composition. The invention will be further illustrated by the following, non-limiting Example, in which all percentages quoted are by weight based on total weight unless otherwise stated.

EXAMPLE

The following is a shampoo according to an embodiment of the invention. It is made by processes standard in the art.

Claims

1. Conditioning shampoo composition comprising from 0.5% wt. silicone having a viscosity of from 600 000 cst to 3 000 000 and polyolefin particles.

2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the polyolefin is polyethylene.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the particles are present at from 0.1 to 10% wt . , preferably from 1 to 5% wt . and most preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% wt. of the composition.

4. Composition according to any preceding claim wherein the particles have an average particle size of from 1 to 10 μm, preferably from 1.5 to 6 μm and most preferably from 3 to 5 μm.

5. Composition according to any preceding claim wherein the silicone is a conditioning silicone.

6. Use of a composition according to any preceding claim for conditioning hair.