WO2008074654A2

WO2008074654A2 - Method for colouring the skin of men

Info

Publication number: WO2008074654A2
Application number: PCT/EP2007/063474
Authority: WO
Inventors: Pascal Arnaud; Charlotte Feltin
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2006-12-19
Filing date: 2007-12-06
Publication date: 2008-06-26
Also published as: WO2008074654A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for making up the skin of men, comprising the application, to the said skin, of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one direct colouring system in the soluble state, the said composition additionally having a viscosity of greater than 100 centipoises and a covering power, defined by a Contrast Ratio, of less than 80.

Description

METHOD FOR COLOURING THE SKIN OF MEN

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions to be applied to the skin and more particularly to compositions intended for making up the skin of men, and to a method for making up the skin of men, comprising the application, to the said skin, of such a composition .

The market for cosmetic products intended for men is rapidly expanding. Cosmetic products, such as fragrances or hygiene and care products intended specifically for male users, have found a place in the routines of men who today use them in everyday life. These products are targeted at providing appropriate solutions to the problems specific to the skin of men, the specific qualities of which distinguish it, with regard to a number of points, from that of women. By way of example, the skin of men exhibits a greater sebaceous secretion, is richer in collagen and has a thicker dermis.

In the field of makeup, there exists no product on the market which satisfactorily meets the expectations of men and responds to the specific qualities of male skin. This is because one of the main expectations of male consumers is to have available a makeup which unifies the complexion, while remaining imperceptible to the eye, in order to obtain an effect which is as natural as possible.

Makeup products generally comprise solid particles, such as pigments, in particular iron and titanium oxides, which render them difficult to spread over the skin when the latter is bearded or exhibits imperfections of relief, such as dilated pores, which are frequent in men.

In addition, the presence of fillers often results in a rather unnatural powdered effect which men wish to avoid. Furthermore, the colour of the makeup obtained by this type of conventional composition is capable of changing over time and in particular of becoming nonhomogeneous due to the significant secretion of sebum and/or sweat during the day.

There thus exists a specific need for a composition suitable for making up the skin of men which is easy to spread and which confers a homogeneous deposited layer of the makeup, which provides a natural result, in particular without visible delimitation or visible powdered effect, and which withstands sweat and sebum in order to exhibit satisfactory hold of the colour over time.

The inventors have found that, in order to meet this need, a composition which comprises dyes, which has a minimal viscosity and which has a reduced covering power is very particularly suitable.

More specifically, the present invention relates, according to one of its aspects, to a method for making up the skin of men, comprising the application, to the said skin, of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one direct colouring system in the soluble state, the said composition having a viscosity of greater than 100 centipoises and a covering power, defined by a Contrast Ratio, of less than 80.

COVERING POWER

Advantageously, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized by a covering power, defined by a Contrast Ratio, of less than 80, in particular of less than or equal to 50.

This covering power can be measured by the following method. The measurement is carried out on a composition film spread over a Leneta Form Ia varnished bicolour contrast card exhibiting a black background and a white background.

In the case of a stick, the composition is kneaded beforehand so as to obtain a viscous paste.

In the case of hot casting, the spreader is brought beforehand to 100⁰C on a heating plate and then positioned on the contrast card in contact with the sample withdrawn from the waterpact . This becomes liquid and can then be spread in the same way as a fluid emulsion, homogeneously.

In the case of a powder, 50 parts by weight of the powder are kneaded with 50 parts by weight of dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid 5CST from Dow Corning) , so as to obtain a viscous paste.

The film is spread with a thickness of 30 μm using a Brave instrument thermostatically-controlled film automatic applicator (calibrated spreader) over the contrast card and then placed in an oven thermostatically controlled at 37⁰C for 24 hours.

The trichromatic coordinates (X, Y, Z) are measured using a CM-2002 or CR-3700 colorimeter.

Similar spreadings are carried out on two other contrast cards and three measurements are carried out on each card. The mean corresponding to these nine measurements is subsequently calculated.

The covering power is equal to 100 x Yn/Yb, where Yn is the mean value of Y on the black background and Yb is the mean value of Y on the white background.

The higher the value of the ratio, the greater the covering power.

DIRECT COLOURING SYSTEM

The term "direct colouring system" denotes a colouring agent or mixture of colouring agents which, as soon as it is brought into contact with the makeup support, generally the skin, instantaneously provides an associated colouring effect.

The compounds which exert a self-tanning action on the human skin, such as derivatives exhibiting a ketone group, for example hydroxymethyl ketones, in particular dihydroxyacetone (DHA) , and also methylglyoxane, are thus excluded from this definition. This is because, in contrast to the direct colouring system according to the invention, these compounds bring about a nonimmediate colouring effect.

The inventors have thus observed, unexpectedly, that the use of a direct colouring system as defined above in a soluble form makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous deposited layer of a colour, without delimitation or powdered effect, and a particularly natural makeup result.

Furthermore, the use of such a system makes it possible to substantially increase the hold of the makeup over time, in particular in terms of resistance to sweat and/or to sebum.

Thus, the cosmetic compositions under consideration according to the invention make it possible to confer, on the skin of men, a colouring which has a very good hold and which is advantageously distinguished from the more superficial colourings, which are capable of changing, provided by conventional makeup compositions and which are generally essentially formulated from dispersed pigments. The colouring agent or agents forming the direct colouring system under consideration in the context of the present invention can be present at a content ranging from 0.001 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 3% by weight and more particularly from 0.025 to 1% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to a specific embodiment, this direct colouring system represents all the colouring agents of the said composition.

As specified above, the direct colouring system is found in a dissolved state within the composition, in contrast to conventional formulations, in which the colouring agents are essentially formulated in a dispersed state.

The colouring agents forming the direct colouring system can thus be fat-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageously, they are water-soluble.

The colouring agents of the direct colouring system can be synthetic or natural.

They can be organic or inorganic dyes.

The synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes are, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene) , xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto or curcumin.

The synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes are, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot) , carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (oenocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel or riboflavin.

The dyes can also be chosen from juglone, lawsone, extracts of fermented soybean, of algae, of fungi, of microorganisms, flavylium salts unsubstituted in the 3 position, such as, for example, those described in Patent EP 1 172 091, extracts of Gesneria fulgens, Blechum procerum or Saxifraga, and pigments capable of being obtained by extraction with an organic or aqueous/organic solvent of a culture medium of micromycetes of the Monascus type.

In a specific embodiment, the direct colouring system comprises at least one natural colouring agent, in particular as defined above, especially one which is water-soluble .

The composition can additionally comprise pigments and/or pearlescent agents in the dispersed state, with the proviso that these do not affect the expected properties of the composition.

Advantageously, these insoluble colouring agents can be present in a proportion of less than 8% by weight, more particularly of less than 5% by weight and in particular of less than 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Mention may more particularly be made, by way of illustration and without implied limitation of inorganic pigments, of yellow, red or brown metal oxides, such as, for example, iron oxides.

Mention may be made, as metal powders, of copper powder .

The pigments employed in the context of the present invention can be used either in their crude form or in a pretreated form, in particular in a form treated at their surface.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of representation of these surface treatments, of that which consists in treating the pigment with a hydrophobic and oil-repelling agent of perfluoroalkyl phosphate derivative type, as described in Patent EP 1 086 683.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of illustration of the pigments which are more particularly suitable in the invention, of brown iron and yellow iron oxides, coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, and alumina-treated titanium oxide, coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, such as, in particular, the pigment pastes sold under the trade names Yellow Iron Oxide Covafluor, PF5 Yellow 601 (yellow) and PF5 R516L (red) by Daito or under the trade names FA50DRF, FA50DYF, FA65DF and FA65DBF by Kobo .

The term "pearlescent agents" should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shells or else synthesized and which exhibit a colour effect by optical interference .

The pearlescent agents can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic dye, in particular of the abovementioned type, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colouring materials.

The pearlescent agents can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown and/or coppery colour or glint.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of illustration of the pearlescent agents which can be employed in the context of the present invention, of pearlescent agents of gold colour sold in particular by

Engelhard under the name of Brillant Gold 212G

(Timica) , Gold 222C (Cloisonne) , Sparkle Gold (Timica) ,

Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X

(Cloisonne) ; bronze pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384)

(Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by

Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne) ; orange pearlescent agents sold in particular by

Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by Merck under the names

Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449)

(Microna) ; brown-coloured pearlescent agents sold in particular by Engelhard under the names Nu-Antique

Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); pearlescent agents with a copper glint sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A

(Timica) ; pearlescent agents with a red glint sold in particular by Merck under the name Sienna Fine (17386)

(Colorona) ; pearlescent agents with a yellow glint sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite) ; red-coloured pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) ; pink pearlescent agents sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Tan Opale G005 (Gemtone) ; black pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica) ; blue pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna); white pearlescent agents with a silvery glint sold in particular by Merck under the name Xirona Silver; golden green pinkish orangey pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona); and their mixtures.

The compositions according to the invention can also comprise, as additional colouring agent, one or more compounds which exert a self-tanning action on the human skin, such as derivatives exhibiting a ketone group, for example hydroxymethyl ketones and in particular dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and also methylglyoxane .

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" denotes a non-toxic medium capable of being applied to human skin. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suitable for the nature of the skin on which the composition has to be applied and for the form under which the composition is intended to be packaged, in particular fluid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

As specified above, the compositions according to the invention are more particularly compositions intended for making up the skin and in particular the skin of the face. They can thus be base compositions and/or compositions of foundation type.

They can be solid or liquid and are advantageously formulated in a fluid form. Thus, they can be provided in an anhydrous form or in the form of a gel or of a direct, inverse or multiple emulsion combining at least one aqueous phase and at least one fatty phase.

As specified above, they advantageously have a viscosity of greater than 100 centipoises, in particular of greater than or equal to 300 centipoises.

This viscosity can be measured by the following method.

The measurement is carried out using a viscometer of Rheomat RM 180 type. The product is poured into the cup appropriate for the spindle used, depending on the fluidity of the product. The viscosity is measured after rotating for 10 minutes at a speed of 75 s^"1 and at ambient temperature.

When the compositions are provided in the solid form, for example in the form of solid emulsions, it is not possible to measure a viscosity, the abovementioned measurement method being intended for fluid compositions which flow under their own weight. In the case of solid compositions, which do not flow under their own weight, the composition preferably exhibits a hardness such that the force of penetration is greater than or equal to 40 grams (g) , in particular ranging from 40 g to 150 g.

The force of penetration of the composition is measured according to the following protocol.

At the end of the preparation of the composition, the latter is cast in a dish and is maintained at 2O⁰C for 24 hours. The force of penetration is then measured on this solid composition using a texture-analysing device of TA-XT2 brand (Stable Micro Systems), with the P4 measuring probe, a cylinder with a diameter of 4 mm, with a prepenetration rate of 2.0 mm/sec, a penetration rate of 0.5 mm/s (triggering force of 2 g) and with a preselected penetration depth of 2 mm. The probe is subsequently withdrawn with a post-rate of 2 mm/sec. The force of penetration, expressed in grams, is read on the device.

Preferably, the solid composition has a hardness such that the force of penetration ranges from 40 g to 150 g, preferably ranges from 50 g to 120 g, preferentially ranges from 50 g to 9O g and more preferentially ranges from 60 g to 80 g.

Aqueous phase

The compositions according to the invention can comprise at least one aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which can form the continuous phase of the composition under consideration.

The aqueous phase can be composed essentially of water.

It can also comprise a mixture of water and of water- miscible organic solvent (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25⁰C), such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, C₃-C₄ ketones and C₂-C₄ aldehydes.

According to a specific embodiment, the solvent of lower monoalcohol type in the context of the present invention can represent from 1 to 70% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, of the composition employed in the claimed process.

Mention may be made, as example of monoalcohol suitable for the implementation of the invention, of saturated hydrocarbon compounds comprising a single hydroxyl functional group and comprising from 2 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 4 to 12 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made, as example of monoalcohol suitable for the invention, without implied limitation, of ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol and dodecanol. The term "polyhydroxylated solvent" is intended to cover any hydrocarbon compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functional groups and comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

The hydrocarbon chains can, if appropriate, be interrupted by the presence of at least one heteroatom and in particular an oxygen atom.

The polyol suitable for the implementation of the present invention can be chosen in particular from saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic alcohols.

Thus, the polyol can be chosen, for example, from a diol, a triol, a tetraol or a pentaol or one of their esters .

The polyol can be a diol or one of its esters, for example chosen from a fatty alcohol dimer, a mono- or polyglycerol, a mono- or poly (C₂-4 alkylene) glycol, 1, 4-butanediol and pentaerythritol .

Mention may be made, nonexhaustively, as example of diol which can also be suitable for the implementation of the invention, of butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, undecanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecenediol, cyclohexanediol, 1, 1' -oxydipropanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, phytantriol (3, 7, 11, 15-tetramethyl-l, 2, 3- trihydroxyhexadecane) , ethylene glycol, xylene glycol and their isomers. A mixture based at least on ethanol and on propylene glycol or on dipropylene glycol or on butylene glycol is very particularly suitable as mixture.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally water-miscible organic solvent (s) ) can be present at a content ranging from 1% to 99% by weight, in particular ranging from 3% to 80% by weight and especially ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

Fatty phase

The composition according to the invention can comprise a fatty phase and in particular at least one fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25⁰C) and/or one fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures. The fatty phase can additionally comprise lipophilic organic solvents.

The composition according to the invention can be anhydrous. The term "anhydrous composition" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present patent application, a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 2% by weight of water. More preferably still, the composition is devoid of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water contributed by the ingredients mixed.

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention can in particular comprise, as liquid fatty substance, at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil or one of their mixtures. The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmosphere pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a nonzero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.01 to 300 mmHg (1.33 Pa to 40 000 Pa) and preferably greater than 0.3 mmHg (30 Pa) .

The term "nonvolatile oil" is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa) .

These volatile or nonvolatile oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils or their mixtures. The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur or phosphorus atoms .

The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C₈-Ci₆ alkanes, such as C₈-Ci₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) , such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar^® or Permethyl^R trade names, branched C₈-Ci₆ esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt^R by Shell, can also be used.

Use may also be made, as volatile oils, of volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8 x ICT⁶ m²/s) and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyIcyclohexa- siloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl- octyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyl- trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl- pentasiloxane and their mixtures.

The volatile oil can be present in a composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, in particular from 1% to 65% by weight and especially from 2% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The nonvolatile oils can in particular be chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon, fluorinated and/or silicone oils .

Mention may in particular be made, as nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, of:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C₄ to C₂₄, it being possible for these chains to be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkinseed, cucumber, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passion flower or musk rose oils; shea butter; or triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel,

- synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane and their mixtures, - synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RiCOOR₂ in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R₂ is > 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate) , isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Ci₂ to Ci5 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, or heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters,

- fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol, higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures.

The nonvolatile silicone oils which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) which are nonvolatile, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendent alkyl or alkoxy groups and/or alkyl or alkoxy groups at the silicone chain end, which groups each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates .

The nonvolatile oils can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 85% by weight and especially from 1 to 70% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

More generally, the liquid fatty substance can be present in a proportion of 0.01 to 90% by weight and in particular of 0.1 to 85% by weight, with respect to the weight of the fatty phase.

As regards the fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, it can be chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures. This solid fatty substance can be present in a proportion of 0.01 to 50% by weight, in particular of 0.1 to 40% by weight and especially of 0.2 to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the fatty phase.

Thus, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one fatty compound which is pasty at ambient temperature.

The term "pasty fatty substance" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 to 55⁰C, preferably from 25 to 45⁰C, and/or a viscosity at 4O⁰C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. s (1 to 400 poises), preferably from 0.5 to 25 Pa. s, measured with a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz. A person skilled in the art can choose, from the MS-r3 and MS-r4 spindles, on the basis of his general knowledge, the spindle which makes it possible to measure the viscosity, so as to be able to carry out the measurement of the pasty compound tested.

Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of polymer type; they can also be chosen from silicone compounds; they can also be provided in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and/or silicone compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, use is predominantly made, preferably, of pasty hydrocarbon compounds

(comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups) .

Mention may be made, among the pasty compounds capable of being used in a composition according to the invention, of lanolins and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolins, oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa. s, preferably of 19 to 20.5 Pa. s, and/or a melting point of 30 to 55⁰C, and their mixtures. Use may also be made of esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, in particular those having from 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 to 35⁰C and/or viscosity at 4O⁰C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. s), such as triisostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; poly (vinyl laurate) ; cholesterol esters, such as triglycerides of vegetable origin, for example hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters, such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid), and their mixtures. Use may be made, as triglyceride of vegetable origin, of derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, such as "Thixinr" from Rheox.

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with high molecular weights and in particular those having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and a melting point of 20-55⁰C, such as stearyl dimethicones, in particular those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503^® and DC25514^®, and their mixtures.

The pasty fatty substance can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 45% by weight and better still ranging from 0.2 to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition.

The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise a wax. The wax can be solid at ambient temperature (25⁰C), with a reversible solid/liquid change in state, having a melting point of greater than 3O⁰C with a range up to 200⁰C, a hardness of greater than 0.5 MPa and exhibiting, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization. The wax can be a hydrocarbon, fluorine and/or silicone wax and can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. It can be chosen, for example, from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, silicone waxes, microcrystalline waxes and their mixtures.

In particular, the wax can be present in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion.

The wax can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 30% by weight and especially from 0.2% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Surface-active agents

The composition can additionally comprise emulsifying surface-active agents present in particular in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight and better still from 5 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

These surface-active agents can be chosen from anionic or nonionic surface-active agents. Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer" , Volume 22, pp 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifying) of surfactants, in particular pp 347-377 of this reference for anionic and nonionic surfactants.

The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen:

from nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetearyl alcohols, esters of fatty acids and sucrose, esters of alkyl glucose, in particular polyoxyethylenated fatty esters of Ci-C₆ alkyl glucose, and their mixtures, from anionic surfactants: Ci₆-C₃₀ fatty acids neutralized with amines, ammonia or alkali metal salts, and their mixtures,

- from silicone surfactants chosen from the compounds of the following general formula (I):

in which:

- Ri and R₄, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C₃₀ alkyl radical or a phenyl radical,

R₂, which are identical or different, represent

- (C_xH_2x) - (OC₂H₄) a" (OC₃H₆) _b-0R₃, R₃, which are identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms or a linear or branched acyl radical having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, - n varies from 1 to 1000, p varies from 1 to 30, a varies from 1 to 50, b varies from 1 to 50, x varies from 1 to 5.

The number-average molecular weight of this silicone emulsifier is generally greater than or equal to 15 000 and preferably between 20 000 and 40 000.

A first family of polyalkyl polyether siloxanes particularly well suited to the compositions according to the invention is that of the compounds corresponding to the formula (I) above for which the Ri and R4 radicals are identical and all represent methyl radicals and the R₃ radical represents hydrogen.

Mention may be made, as example of silicone emulsifier belonging to this family, of the oxyethylenated- oxypropylenated polydimethyl/methylsiloxane (EO/PO 18/18) for which n is 396 and p is 4, with a number-average molecular weight of greater than 30 000

(CTFA name: Cyclomethicone 90% Dimethicone copolyol

10%), sold under the trade name "Silicone Q2-3225C" by

Dow Corning.

In the above definition and in the continuation of the text, EO represents one mole of ethylene oxide and PO represents one mole of propylene oxide.

A second family of polyalkyl polyether siloxanes particularly well suited to the compositions according to the invention is that of the compounds corresponding to the formula (I) above for which the Ri radicals all represent methyl radicals and the R₄ radicals all represent lauryl radicals.

A particularly preferred silicone emulsifier of this second family is the oxyethylenated-oxypropylenated polymethyllauryl/methylsiloxane (EO/PO 18/18) for which n is 35 and p is 3, with a number-average molecular weight of greater than 25 000 (CTFA name: Lauryl methicone copolyol 91%, Isostearyl alcohol 9%) , sold under the trade name "DC Q2-5200" by Dow Corning.

A silicone emulsifier which is very particularly preferred for the compositions according to the invention is an α, ω-substituted oxyalkylene silicone with a linear structure, substituted at the two ends of the main chain by oxyalkylene groups connected to the Si atoms via a hydrocarbon group. The choice will more particularly be made of a silicone corresponding to the following general formula (II) :

in which: R = - (CH₂) _s0- (C₂H₄O) _t (C₃H₆O) _uRi, where :

Ri represents H, CH₃ or CH₂CH₃,

- s is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, t varies from 1 to 100 and u varies from 0 to 50, it being possible for the (C₂H₄O) and (C₃H₆O) units to be distributed randomly or in blocks,

where : the R² radicals represent a Ci-C₃ alkyl radical or a phenyl radical,

5 ≤ m ≤ 300. Preferably, the α, ω-substituted oxyalkylenated silicone used according to the present invention corresponds to the general formula (II) for which all the R² radicals are methyl radicals and: - s ranges from 2 to 4, t ranges from 3 to 100, m ranges from 50 to 200.

More preferably, the average molecular weight of R ranges from 800 to 2600.

Preferably, the ratio by weight of the C₂H₄O units with respect to the C₃H₆O units ranges from 100:10 to 20:80. Advantageously, this ratio is approximately 42/58.

More preferably, Ri is the methyl group.

More preferably still, the emulsion according to the invention comprises the α, ω-oxyalkylenated silicone of the following formula:

in which: m = 100, - R = (CH₂) ₃-0- (C₂H₄O)_x- (C₃H₆O) _y-CH₃, where t ranges from 3 to 100 and u ranges from 1 to 50, the ratio by weight of the C₂H₄O number to the C₃H₆O number being approximately 42/58 and the average molecular weight of R ranging from 800 to 1000.

Mention may in particular be made, among the commercial products which can comprise all or part of the α, ω-substituted oxyalkylenated silicones which can be used according to the invention as emulsifier, of those sold under the names "Abil EM 97" by Goldschmidt or "KF 6009", "X22-4350", "X22-4349" or "KF 6008" by Shin- Etsu.

The polyalkyl polyether siloxane emulsifier as defined above is used according to the invention in a preferred proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight and more particularly from 0.5 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.

Film-forming polymer

The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one film-forming polymer .

According to the present invention, the term "film- forming polymer" is understood to mean a polymer capable of forming, by itself alone or in the presence of an additional agent which is able to form a film, a continuous film which adheres to the skin.

Use is preferably made of a film-forming polymer capable of forming a hydrophobic film, that is to say a polymer, the film of which has a solubility in water at 25⁰C of less than 1% by weight.

The film-forming polymer can in particular be at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of: water-soluble film-forming polymers, - aqueous dispersions of particles of hydrodispersible film-forming polymers, also known as "latexes"; in this case, the composition must comprise an aqueous phase, - fat-soluble film-forming polymers, - fat-dispersible film-forming polymers in a form of nonaqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions of polymer particles, if appropriate stabilized at their surface by at least one stabilizing agent, in one or more silicone and/or hydrocarbon oils; these nonaqueous dispersions are also known as "NADs".

The film-forming polymer can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content as dry matter ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight.

Mention may be made, among the film-forming polymers which can be used according to the invention, of synthetic polymers of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures.

The term "radical film-forming polymer" is understood to mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers possessing unsaturation, in particular ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (contrary to polycondensates) . The film-forming polymers of radical type can in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers .

Use may be made, as aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, of the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90^®, Neocryl A-1070^®, Neocryl A-1090^®,

Neocryl BT-62^®, Neocryl A-1079^® and Neocryl A-523^® by

Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432 by Dow Chemical, or

Daitosol 5000 AD^® by Daito Kasey Kogyo; or also the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names

Neorez R-981^® and Neorez R-974^® by Avecia-Neoresins,

Avalure UR-405^®, Avalure UR-410^®, Avalure UR-425^®,

Avalure UR-450^®, Sancure 875^®, Sancure 861^®,

Sancure 878 and Sancure 2060 by Goodrich, Impranil 85 by Bayer or Aquamere H-1511^® by Hydromer.

Mention may be made, as examples of water-soluble film- forming polymers, of proteins, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitosan or chitin polymers, cellulose polymers, acrylic polymers or copolymers, vinyl polymers, polymers of natural origin, which are optionally modified, and their mixtures.

The film-forming polymer can also be present in the form of particles, stabilized at the surface, dispersed in the liquid fatty phase. Dispersions of film-forming polymer in the liquid fatty phase, in the presence of stabilizing agents, are described in particular in the documents EP-A-749 746, EP-A-923 928 and EP-A-930 060.

Mention may also be made, as fat-soluble film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention, of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C₂-C₂O alkenes such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci to C₈ alkyl radical, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C₂ to C₄₀ alkene and better still C₃ to C₂₀ alkene. Mention may be made, as example of VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, of the VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate copolymer or butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) .

The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise an additional agent which is able to form a film which promotes the formation of a film with a film-forming polymer. Such an agent which is able to form a film can be chosen from all the compounds known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired role and can in particular be chosen from plasticizing agents and coalescence agents.

FILLER Of course, it remains possible to introduce, into the composition according to the invention, one or more conventional fillers, with the proviso that the latter are used in an amount such that they do not affect the aesthetic effect desired by the compositions under consideration according to the invention, that is to say do not excessively confer a dusty appearance on the made up skin when the latter is coated with a composition in accordance with the invention. A person skilled in the art is in a position, from his knowledge, to carry out this adjustment.

These fillers can be inorganic or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like) . Mention may in particular be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders formed of polyamide (Nylon^®) , (Orgasol^® from Atochem) , of poly-β-alanine and of polyethylene, powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon^®) polymers, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres, such as those of poly (vinylidene chloride) /acrylonitrile, for example Expancel (Nobel Industrie) , of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap^® from Dow Corning) or of poly (methyl methacrylate) (Covabead from Wacker) , silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls^® from Toshiba, for example) , particles of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres

(Silica Beads" from Maprecos) , glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate and their mixtures. O Q

In this case, the compositions in accordance with the invention can comprise less than 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, of fillers, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5% by weight of filler, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably can be devoid of filler.

It can be advantageous to favour the choice of transparent fillers, such as, for example, pyrogenic silica, poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), or silicone elastomers or resins.

The composition under consideration according to the invention is generally provided in the form of a makeup base composition, of a foundation, in particular to be applied to the face or neck, of a concealer, of a complexion corrector, of a tinted cream or makeup base for the face or of a makeup composition for the body.

The composition according to the invention can be provided in the form of a fluid, for example pasty or liquid. It can be provided in the form of a soft paste, of an ointment or of a salve which is solid or fluid of cream type. For example, it can be an oil-in-water, water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, a solid emulsion, in particular of water-in-oil type, a solid or soft gel, in particular anhydrous gel, and even in the two-phase form.

It can also be provided in a solid form, for example a pulverulent, compacted or cast form, or in the stick form.

The invention will be able to be better understood on reading the detailed description which will follow of nonlimiting exemplary embodiments of the invention.

EXAMPLES Example 1: Cosmetic composition of coloured oil-in- water emulsion type

The following composition was prepared:

A - Mixture of dialkyl (linear Ci₄-I₅) tartrate, cetearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol oxyethylene (25 EO) oxypropylene (2)

(Cosmacol PSE from Sasol) 1.500

Mixture of glyceryl mono/distearate and polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO)

(Arlacel 165 FL from Uniqema) 2.000

- Stearyl alcohol (C18 95%) (Lanette 18 from

Cognis) 1.000

Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (Dow Corning 246

Fluid from Dow Corning) 7.500

Hydrogenated isoparaffin (6-8 mol of isobutylene) (Parleam from NOF

Corporation) 2.500

Butyl p-hydroxybenzoate (distributed by

Ueno Fine Chemicals) 0.150

Protected 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate

(Parsol MCX from DSM Nutritional Products) 1.000 Bl - Water 52.500

Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate (distributed by Nipa) 0.250

Chlorophenesin (from Denk (Merck)) 0.250

B2 - Water 16.847

Disodium salt of ponceau (CI: 14700)

(07004 FD & C Red 4 from LCW (Sensient) ) 0.100 Disodium salt of sunset yellow FCF

(CI: 15985) (37001 FD & C Yellow No. 6 from Univar) 0.130

Disodium salt of fast green FCF

(CI: 42053) (06503 FD & C Green 3 from LCW

(Sensient)) 0.013

Disodium salt of acid fuchsin D

(CI: 17200) (K7057 D & C Red 33 from LCW

(Sensient)) 0.010 C - Water 1.000

Chlorohexidine digluconate in solution (chlorohexidine digluconate 20% solution BP/PH. EUR. from Schutz Dishman Biotech) 0.250

D - Water 9.750

- Sodium hyaluronate (MW: 1 100 000) as a powder (Cristalhyal from Soliance) 0.250

E - Maize starch esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride, aluminium salt

(Dry Flo Plus (28-1160) (Europe) from National Starch) 3.000

Procedure :

A is weighed into a 400 ml beaker, which is placed on a water bath at 75⁰C until dissolution is complete.

The various constituents of phase Bl are weighed into the main beaker (800 ml) and the various constituents of phase B2 are weighed into a 250 ml beaker and then they are placed on a water bath at 75⁰C until dissolution is complete. When the two phases are thoroughly dissolved, B2 is added to Bl with magnetic stirring .

Phase D (gel) is prepared at the same time using a Rayneri mixer.

The emulsion is prepared at 75⁰C. For this, the fatty phase A is poured into the aqueous phase B, the stirring speed being increased during the addition up to 1500 rev/min. There must always be a small vortex. Mechanical stirring is maintained for 10 minutes.

The temperature is subsequently brought down to 45⁰C and phase C is added (stirring for 5 minutes), followed by phase D (stirring for 5 min) and then by phase E (stirring for 10 minutes) . This colouring base makes it possible to obtain, on the skin of men, a medium tanned complexion, providing a natural makeup which is virtually imperceptible and without delimitation. The covering power (Contrast Ratio) measured with this colouring base is 12% and its viscosity is 370 centipoises.

Example 2: Cosmetic composition of coloured oil-in- water emulsion type

The following composition was prepared:

(Cosmacol PSE from Sasol) 1.500

Mixture of glyceryl mono/distearate and polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO)

(Arlacel 165 FL from Uniqema) 2.000

- Stearyl alcohol (C18 95%) (Lanette 18 from Cognis) 1.000 Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (Dow Corning 246

Fluid from Dow Corning) 7.500

Hydrogenated isoparaffin (6-8 mol of isobutylene) (Parleam from NOF Corporation) 2.500

Butyl p-hydroxybenzoate (distributed by Ueno Fine Chemicals) 0.150

Protected 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX from DSM Nutritional Products) 1.000

Bl - Water 52.500

Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate (distributed by Nipa) 0.250

Chlorophenesin (from Denk (Merck)) 0.250

B2 - Water 16.129

- Disodium salt of ponceau SX (CI: 14700)

(07004 FD & C Red 4 from LCW (Sensient) ) 0.385 Disodium salt of sunset yellow FCF (CI: 15985) (37001 FD & C Yellow No. 6 from Univar) 0.500

Disodium salt of fast green FCF (CI: 42053) (06503 FD & C Green 3 from LCW (Sensient)) 0.048

Disodium salt of acid fuchsin D (CI: 17200) (K7057 D & C Red 33 from LCW (Sensient)) 0.038

C - Water 1.000

D - Water 9.750

E - Maize starch esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride, aluminium salt

(Dry Flo Plus (28-1160) (Europe) from National Starch) 3.000

The procedure is the same as that of Example 1.

This colouring base makes it possible to obtain, on a male skin, a strong brown complexion. The covering power (Contrast Ratio) measured with this colouring base is 25.5 and its viscosity is 490 centipoises.

Example 3: Cosmetic composition of coloured oil-in- water emulsion type based on natural dyes

The following composition was prepared:

A - Mixture of dialkyl (linear Ci₄-I₅) tartrate, cetearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol oxyethylene (25 EO) oxypropylene (2) (Cosmacol PSE from Sasol) 1.500

Mixture of glyceryl mono/distearate and polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO) (Arlacel 165 FL from Uniqema) 2.000

Fluid from Dow Corning) 7.500

Butyl p-hydroxybenzoate (distributed by Ueno Fine Chemicals) 0.150

Bl - Water 50.000

Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate (distributed by Nipa) 0.250

Chlorophenesin (from Denk (Merck)) 0.250

B2 - Water 3.615

Beetroot extract (Beetroot juice P-WS (4/96) from LCW (Sensient)) 13.760

- β-Carotene extract (β-Carotene 10% P-WS) from LCW (Sensient) 2.190

Sodium salt of copper chlorophyllin as a powder (97/3) from LCW (Sensient) 0.035

C - Water 1.000

D - Water 9.750

E - Maize starch esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride, aluminium salt

(Dry Flo Plus (28-1160) (Europe) from National Starch) 3.000

The procedure is the same as that of Example 1. This colouring base makes it possible to obtain, on a male skin, a coppery tanned complexion, providing a natural makeup which is virtually imperceptible and without delimitation. The covering power (Contrast Ratio) measured with this colouring base is 40 and its viscosity is 300 centipoises.

Example 4: Composition of foundation type in the form of solid emulsion

The following composition was prepared:

Al - Purified candelilla wax (NC 1630 from

Cera Rica Noda) 1.800

Mineral wax formed of hydrocarbons (C20/C60) (Ozokerite wax SP 1020 P from Stral & Pitsch) 1.200

Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate (from Nipa (Clariant)) 0.300

Poly methylcetyl dimethylmethylsiloxane oxyethylene (20/75/5 - viscosity: 3000 cSt) (Abil EM 90 from Goldschmidt (Degussa) ) 2.000

Isotridecyl isononanoate (Crodamol TN (J) (ES02976) from Croda) 9.000

Polyglycerol isostearate (4 mol) (Isolan GI 34 from Goldschmidt (Degussa)) 1.500

A2 - Ethers of dodecanediol (2.2 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 EO) (Elfacos ST 9 from Akzo Nobel) 4.000

A3 - Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (Dow Corning

245 Fluid from Dow Corning) 28.874

Mixture of polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylene oxypropylene (18 EO/18 PO), of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and of water (10/88/2) (Dow Corning 5225C Formulation Aid from Dow Corning) 2.000

A4 - Silica microbeads (SB150 from Miyoshi

Kasei) 9.000 Pyrogenic silica with a hydrophobic nature (Aerosil R 972 from LCW

(Sensient)) 0.500

Hollow poly (methyl methacrylate) microspheres (particle size: 10 to 12 microns) (Covabead LH 85 from LCW

(Sensient)) 3.000

Bl - Water 23.374

Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate (from Nipa) 0.400

Chlorophenesin (from Denk (Merck)) 0.300

2-Phenoxyethanol (from Seppic) 0.500

Magnesium sulphate hexahydrate (from

Merck) 1.000

- Glycerol (Croderol GV 9000) (from Croda) 5.000

1,3-butylene glycol 3.000

B2 - Water 3.000

Disodium salt of ponceau (CI: 14700)

(07004 FD & C Red 4 from LCW (Sensient)) 0.100 Disodium salt of sunset yellow FCF

(CI: 15985) (37001 FD & C Yellow No. 6 from Univar) 0 . 130

Disodium salt of fast green FCF

(CI: 42053) (06503 FD & C ( Green 3 from

LCW (Sensient)) 0 . 012

Disodium salt of acid fuchsin D

(CI: 17200) (K7057 D & C Rec I 33 from LCW

(Sensient) ) 0 . 010

Procedure :

Phase Al is weighed into a heating pan and melted until the mixture is clear. The latter is stirred using a Moritz rotary agitator (speed of 1300 revolutions/minute) and the temperature of the oil bath is lowered to approximately 8O⁰C.

Phase A2 is added. When the mixture (Al + A2) has stabilized at a temperature of 68⁰C, phases A3 and then A4 are introduced. Mechanical homogenization is maintained for 10 minutes.

At the same time, the aqueous phase Bl is brought to a temperature of 68⁰C on a heating plate, until the mixture is homogeneous. Phase B2 is also prepared at 68⁰C with magnetic stirring.

The emulsion is produced at 67-68⁰C with stirring by slowly pouring the aqueous phase Bl into the fatty phase, followed by phase B2. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes.

The emulsion is subsequently cast at 68⁰C and then placed in a refrigerator at 4⁰C for 10 min.

This product makes it possible to obtain, on a male skin, a very homogeneous tanned colouring, providing a natural makeup which is virtually imperceptible and without delimitation. The covering power (Contrast Ratio) measured with this colouring base is 16 and its hardness is 63 g.

Claims

1. Method for making up the skin of men, comprising the application, to the said skin, of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one direct colouring system in the soluble state, the said composition additionally having a viscosity of greater than 100 centipoises and a covering power, defined by a Contrast Ratio, of less than 80.

2. Method according to the preceding claim, in which the composition has a viscosity of greater than 100 centipoises, in particular of greater than 300 centipoises.

3. Method according to either one of the preceding claims, in which the said composition has a covering power, defined by a Contrast Ratio, of less than 80, in particular of less than or equal to 50.

4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the direct colouring system is formed of water-soluble colouring agent (s) , fat- soluble colouring agent (s) or one of their mixtures .

5. Method according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the said direct colouring system comprises at least one dye chosen from DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes, xanthophylls, palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin, carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins, riboflavin, juglone, lawsone, caramel, extracts of fermented soybean, of algae, of fungi or of microorganisms, flavylium salts unsubstituted in the 3 position, extracts of Gesneria fulgens, Blechum procerum or Saxifraga, and pigments capable of being obtained by extraction with an organic or aqueous/organic solvent of a culture medium of micromycetes of the Monascus type.

6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said direct colouring system comprises at least one natural colouring agent.

7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises from

0.001 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 3% by weight and especially from 0.025 to 1% by weight, of colouring agent (s) forming the direct colouring system.

8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said composition comprises at least one fatty phase.

9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said composition comprises at least one aqueous phase.

10. Method according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, in which the said composition is anhydrous.

11. Method according to Claim 8, 9 or 10, in which the said fatty phase comprises at least one fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure and/or at least one fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

12. Method according to Claim 11, in which the said fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure comprises at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil or one of their mixtures.

13. Method according to Claim 11 or 12, in which the said fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure is chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures .

14. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said composition comprises less than 15% by weight of filler (s) .

15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said composition additionally comprises at least pigments and/or pearlescent agents in the dispersed state.

16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said composition is provided in a fluid form of liquid, paste, direct or inverse emulsion or gel type.

17. Method according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, in which the said composition is provided in a solid form, in particular a compact, pulverulent or cast form, or in the stick form.

18. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said composition is provided in the form of a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, of a concealer, of a complexion corrector, of a tinted cream or of a makeup base for the face or of a makeup composition for the body .