WO2006125717A1 - Electrolyte-stable stearate emulsion - Google Patents

Electrolyte-stable stearate emulsion Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006125717A1
WO2006125717A1 PCT/EP2006/062035 EP2006062035W WO2006125717A1 WO 2006125717 A1 WO2006125717 A1 WO 2006125717A1 EP 2006062035 W EP2006062035 W EP 2006062035W WO 2006125717 A1 WO2006125717 A1 WO 2006125717A1
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Prior art keywords
emulsifier
cosmetic emulsion
emulsion according
emulsifiers
preparation
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PCT/EP2006/062035
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Astrid Heptner
Frank Schwanke
Inka LONGRÉE
Boris Syskowski
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Priority to EP06754996A priority Critical patent/EP1890772A1/en
Publication of WO2006125717A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006125717A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom

Definitions

  • the invention relates to electrolyte-stable emulsions based on C16 / C18 fatty acid mixtures.
  • a cosmetic emulsion comprising one or more C14 to C22 fatty acids as emulsifier A and one or more lipophilic emulsifiers having an HLB ⁇ 7 as coemulsifiers B, characterized in that the mass ratio of emulsifiers A and coemulsifiers B of Is 3: 1 to 15: 1 and the total concentration of emulsifier A is at least 5% by weight and that one or more electrolytes are contained in the aqueous phase, wherein the ionic strength of the aqueous phase in which the electrolyte or electrolytes are dissolved, at least 0.002 mol / l, where the ionic strength refers to positive and negative charges.
  • the use of a co-emulsifier can reduce the amount of fatty acids necessary to produce the dull skin sensation.
  • inventive preparations therefore have, in addition to a proportion of C14 to C22 fatty acids or mixtures thereof (emulsifier A), a Coemulgator B, through which the
  • Fatty acid concentrations - compared to the known preparations with dull skin feeling - can be lowered to harmless levels.
  • the inventive preparations are particularly suitable for topical application to sensitive skin.
  • Sensitive skin in the context of the invention means a combination of various symptoms, such as hyperreactive and intolerant skin, but also atopic skin. These skin conditions are often referred to as "allergic" skin, although an allergic disease can lead to symptoms of sensitive skin, the phenomenon "sensitive skin” is not limited to allergy sufferers.
  • the topical application of the inventive preparations does not constitute a therapy, but is purely cosmetic and helps the affected person to improve the appearance of the skin.
  • the inventive preparation is almost free from irritation, so that no additional skin sensitivity enhancing reactions occur. This is achieved by the low concentration of emulsifier A compared to the prior art.
  • the problem of "sensitive skin” affects a growing number of adults and children.
  • mixtures of C16 / C18 fatty acids are advantageously used, the ratio of C16 to C18 in the range of 1:10 to 10: 1, particularly preferably in the range of 1: 1 or 45:55.
  • Particularly advantageous is the use of Pristerene 4960 from Uniquema, Bergazid C1618-1 BDF from Berg & Schmidt and / or Omyacid 48 (cosmed grade) from Omya Peralta.
  • emulsifier A a mixture of palmitic acid and stearic acid (45:55) as fatty acid.
  • Suitable coemulsifiers B are all lipophilic emulsifiers such as fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols having an HLB less than or equal to 7.0, glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate and / or cetyl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol being particularly advantageous.
  • liquid lipids such as ester oils, triglycerides, silicone oils, especially non-polar lipids such as mineral oils,
  • Liquid sunscreen filters such as, for example, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene,
  • Macadamia oil such as Macadamia oil, almond oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil,
  • the proportion of C14 to C22 fatty acids is selected in the range of 3 to 13 wt .-%, wherein the co-emulsifier should not exceed a content of 3 wt .-%.
  • emulsifier A and co-emulsifier B are in a ratio of 3: 1 to 15: 1 to each other, particularly advantageous is a ratio of 4: 1 to 10: 1 with an optimum in the range of 4: 1 to 7 : 1 is received.
  • the total content of emulsifiers A must be at least 5% by weight of the preparation, but should not exceed 15% by weight in order to ensure good compatibility.
  • electrolytes it is advantageous to enrich the preparation with electrolytes, as this permanently enhances the dull skin feeling. Due to their polar properties, electrolytes preferentially stay in the water phase of the preparation.
  • inventive emulsions show sufficient stability for cosmetic applications up to a content of 5% by weight of electrolytes.
  • Inorganic salts especially alkaline earth and alkali salts containing a chloride, especially NaCl, KCl, NH 4 Cl, ZnCl 2 , MgCl and MgSO 4 sulfate
  • alkaline earth and alkali salts containing a chloride especially NaCl, KCl, NH 4 Cl, ZnCl 2 , MgCl and MgSO 4 sulfate
  • Water Soluble Light Filter Water soluble sunscreen filters are understood to mean all UV absorbing ingredients present in the aqueous phase
  • Salts of naturally occurring acids in the skin eg the energy metabolism such as sodium liponate, sodium citrate, ammonium lactate, sodium lactate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium citrate) or weak carboxylic acids (eg sodium propionate)
  • energy metabolism such as sodium liponate, sodium citrate, ammonium lactate, sodium lactate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium citrate
  • weak carboxylic acids eg sodium propionate
  • Amino acids in particular glycine, alanine and / or asparagine
  • the preparations show, from a content of 0.002 mol / l of electrolytes (based on the aqueous phase) an increasingly dull skin feeling, the maximum of "stumpiness" between 0.07 and 0.35 mol / l is achieved.
  • inventive preparations can be upgraded in particular by the incorporation of water-soluble sunscreen filters.
  • Water-soluble sunscreen filters are to be understood as meaning all UV-absorbing ingredients which are present in the aqueous phase, hydrophobic particulate sunscreen filters, such as metal oxides, being understood here as well.
  • advantageous water-soluble light protection filters which are also electrolytes, are phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, in particular the EUSOLEX 232® and NEO HELIOPAN type Hydro® from Symrise offered by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, in particular NEO HELOPAN AP® from Symrise ,
  • the particulate sunscreen filter With a matting effect, which is excellent with the dull skin feel.
  • Particularly suitable for this purpose are titanium dioxide and / or zinc oxide, where the surface of the oxides can be modified inorganically or organically.
  • the preparations may contain other substances that enhance the matting effect.
  • fatty alcohols fatty acid esters, water and oil insoluble solid particles, such as.
  • organic and inorganic polymers starches, starches, modified starch, mica, TaIc, silica, silicates, phyllosilicates, nylon, PMMA, methyl methacrylates, methacrylates, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyacrylklareester- Polymers and / or their cross- or copolymers.

Abstract

The invention relates to emulsions that are stable in relation to electrolytes, based on mixtures of C14 and C22 fatty acids.

Description

Beiersdorf AG Beiersdorf AG
Elektrolytstabile StearatemulsionElectrolyte stable stearate emulsion
Die Erfindung bezieht sich auf gegenüber Elektrolyten stabile Emulsionen auf Basis von C16/C18-Fettsäuregemischen.The invention relates to electrolyte-stable emulsions based on C16 / C18 fatty acid mixtures.
Stand der TechnikState of the art
Im Stande der Technik mangelt es an Emulsionen die ein extrem stumpfes Hautgefühl hervorrufen und die neben Gemischen aus C16- und C18-Fettsäuren als Emulgatoren größere Mengen an Elektolyten aufnehmen können. Durch das Vorhandensein von Elektrolyten ist die Stabilität von O/W-Emulsionen stark herabgesetzt, da die Emulsionströpfchen zusammenfließen. Die zur Auswahl stehenden aktiven Bestandteile werden dadurch stark eingeschränkt, da insbesondere ionische bzw. elektrolytische Substanzen nicht eingearbeitet werdne können. (Y. Konno, Konferenz 'Cosmetic Science for a Global Marketplace', 23 - 26 September 2002, Edinburgh, Schottland, GB, Poster P 152).In the prior art, there is a lack of emulsions which cause an extremely dull skin feeling and which can take in addition to mixtures of C16 and C18 fatty acids as emulsifiers larger amounts of electrolytes. The presence of electrolytes greatly reduces the stability of O / W emulsions as the emulsion droplets flow together. The active ingredients available for selection are thereby severely limited, since in particular ionic or electrolytic substances can not be incorporated. (Y. Konno, Conference 'Cosmetic Science for a Global Marketplace', 23 - 26 September 2002, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK, Poster P 152).
Auf dem Markt befindliche Kosmetikprodukte die ein stumpfe Hautgefühl hervorrufen, jedoch rückstandsfrei sind, weisen einen Stearinsäuregehalt von ca. 15 Gew.-% auf. In dieser hohen Konzentration ist Stearinsäure jedoch als toxisch anzusehen und verursacht starke Hautreizungen. Normale Kosmetika weisen Stearinsäurekonzentrationen von bis zu 3 Gew.-% auf, bei dieser Konzentration wirkt die Stearinsäure noch nicht hautreizend.On the market cosmetic products that cause a dull skin feeling, but are residue-free, have a stearic acid content of about 15 wt .-% on. However, at this high concentration, stearic acid is considered to be toxic and causes severe skin irritation. Normal cosmetics have stearic acid concentrations of up to 3 wt .-%, at this concentration, the stearic acid is not yet irritating to the skin.
Aus dem US Patent 6,294,180 sind kosmetische Puder bekannt, die durch den Einsatz von polymeren Verdickern, insbesondere Stärke, eine hohe Elektrolyt- bzw. Salzverträglichkeit aufweisen, es handelt sich hierbei jedoch nicht um rückstandsfreie Produkte.From the US Patent 6,294,180 cosmetic powders are known, which have a high electrolyte or salt compatibility by the use of polymeric thickeners, in particular starch, but this is not to residue-free products.
Aufgabetask
Aufgabe war es daher, den Stand der Technik um Emulsionen zu bereichern, die ein extrem stumpfes Hautgefühl hervorrufen, jedoch Stearinsäure nur in nicht reizenden Mengen enthalten. Ziel war es auch, entsprechende Emulsionen ohne den Einsatz von verdickenden Polymeren, wie zum Beispiel quervernetzte synthetische Polymere wie PAS 80, 81, 84, Inversverdicker, halbsynthetische Polymere (PSX, Caradic), zur Verfügung zu stellen, da der Zusatz von Polymeren einem stumpfen Hautgefühl entgegenwirkt. Emulsionen mit extrem stumpfen Hautgefühl sind in bestimmten Regionen der Welt erwünscht. Mit ihnen wird ein schnelles Einzugsvermögen und ein, aufgrund des hohen Anteils an festen Stoffen, sichtbarer mattierende Effekt erreicht.It was therefore an object to enrich the state of the art with emulsions which cause an extremely dull skin feeling but contain stearic acid only in non-irritating amounts. The aim was also to provide appropriate emulsions without the use of thickening polymers, such as crosslinked synthetic polymers such as PAS 80, 81, 84, inverse thickener, semi-synthetic polymers (PSX, Caradic), as the addition of polymers blunt Skin sensation counteracts. Emulsions with an extremely dull skin feel are desirable in certain regions of the world. With them, a fast absorption capacity and, due to the high proportion of solids, visible matting effect is achieved.
Lösungsolution
Für den Fachmann nicht voraussehbar war, dass eine kosmetische Emulsion enthaltend ein oder mehrere C14 bis C22 Fettsäuren als Emulgator A und ein oder mehrere lipophile Emulgatoren mit einem HLB < 7 als Coemulgatoren B, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Massenverhältnis von Emulgatoren A und Coemulgatoren B von 3:1 bis 15:1 beträgt und die Gesamtkonzentration an Emulgator A mindestens 5 Gew-% beträgt und dass in der wässrigen Phasen einen oder mehrere Elektrolyte enthalten sind, wobei die lonenstärke der wässrigen Phase, in der der oder die Elektrolyte gelöst vorliegen, mindestens 0,002mol/l, wobei die lonenstärke sich auf positive und negative Ladungen bezieht.It was unforeseeable for a person skilled in the art that a cosmetic emulsion comprising one or more C14 to C22 fatty acids as emulsifier A and one or more lipophilic emulsifiers having an HLB <7 as coemulsifiers B, characterized in that the mass ratio of emulsifiers A and coemulsifiers B of Is 3: 1 to 15: 1 and the total concentration of emulsifier A is at least 5% by weight and that one or more electrolytes are contained in the aqueous phase, wherein the ionic strength of the aqueous phase in which the electrolyte or electrolytes are dissolved, at least 0.002 mol / l, where the ionic strength refers to positive and negative charges.
Durch den Einsatz eines Coemulgators läßt sich die zur Erzeugung des stumpfen Hautgefühls notwendige Menge an Fettsäuren verringen.The use of a co-emulsifier can reduce the amount of fatty acids necessary to produce the dull skin sensation.
Die erfinderischen Zubereitungen weisen daher neben einem Anteil an C14 bis C22 Fettsäuren oder deren Gemischen (Emulgator A), einen Coemulgator B auf, durch den sich dieThe inventive preparations therefore have, in addition to a proportion of C14 to C22 fatty acids or mixtures thereof (emulsifier A), a Coemulgator B, through which the
Fettsäurekonzentrationen - gegenüber den bekannten Zubereitungen mit stumpfen Hautgefühl - auf unschädliche Mengen absenken lassen.Fatty acid concentrations - compared to the known preparations with dull skin feeling - can be lowered to harmless levels.
Dadurch wird erreicht, dass sich die Verträglichkeit der Zubereitungen deutlich verbessert wird, wobei die charakteristische stumpfe Sensorik erhalten bleibt.This ensures that the compatibility of the preparations is significantly improved, the characteristic blunt sensor is maintained.
Die erfinderischen Zubereitungen sind insbesondere zur topischen Anwendung auf sensibler Haut geeignet. Unter sensibler Haut im Rahmen der Erfindung ist eine Kombination verschiedener Symptome, wie hyperreaktive und intolerante Haut, aber auch atopische Haut zu verste- hen. Diese Hautzustände werden von den Betroffenen oftmals, nicht ganz korrekt, als „allergische" Haut bezeichnet. Obwohl eine allergische Erkrankung zu Symptomen der sensiblen Haut führen kann, ist die Erscheinung „sensible Haut" nicht auf Allergiker beschränkt. Die topische Anwendung der erfinderischen Zubereitungen stellt keine Therapie dar, sondern sie ist rein kosmetisch und hilft den Betroffenen das Erscheinungsbild der Haut zu verbessern. Die erfinde- rische Zubereitung ist nahezu reizfrei, so dass keine zusätzlichen, die Sensibilität der Haut verstärkenden Reaktionen auftreten. Die wird durch die gegenüber dem Stand der Technik geringe Konzentration an Emulgator A erreicht. Das Problem „sensible Haut" betrifft eine wachsende Anzahl Erwachsenen und Kindern.The inventive preparations are particularly suitable for topical application to sensitive skin. Sensitive skin in the context of the invention means a combination of various symptoms, such as hyperreactive and intolerant skin, but also atopic skin. These skin conditions are often referred to as "allergic" skin, although an allergic disease can lead to symptoms of sensitive skin, the phenomenon "sensitive skin" is not limited to allergy sufferers. The topical application of the inventive preparations does not constitute a therapy, but is purely cosmetic and helps the affected person to improve the appearance of the skin. The inventive preparation is almost free from irritation, so that no additional skin sensitivity enhancing reactions occur. This is achieved by the low concentration of emulsifier A compared to the prior art. The problem of "sensitive skin" affects a growing number of adults and children.
Vorteilhaft werden als Emulgator A Gemische aus C16/C18 Fettsäuren eingesetzt, wobei das Verhältnisse von C16 zu C18 im Berich von 1 :10 bis 10:1 , besonders bevorzugt aber im Bereich von 1 :1 bzw. 45:55 liegt. Insbesondere vorteilhaft ist der Einsatz von Pristerene 4960 der Firma Uniquema, Bergazid C1618-1 BDF der Firma Berg & Schmidt und/oder Omyacid 48 (cosmed grade) der Firma Omya Peralta.As emulsifier A, mixtures of C16 / C18 fatty acids are advantageously used, the ratio of C16 to C18 in the range of 1:10 to 10: 1, particularly preferably in the range of 1: 1 or 45:55. Particularly advantageous is the use of Pristerene 4960 from Uniquema, Bergazid C1618-1 BDF from Berg & Schmidt and / or Omyacid 48 (cosmed grade) from Omya Peralta.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt ist es als Emulgator A eine Mischung aus Palmitinsäure und Stearinsäure (45:55) als Fettsäure zu verwenden.It is particularly preferred according to the invention to use as emulsifier A a mixture of palmitic acid and stearic acid (45:55) as fatty acid.
Als Coemulgatoren B eignen sich alle lipophilen Emulgatoren wie Fettsäureester, Fettalkohole mit einem HLB kleiner gleich 7,0, wobei insbesondere Glycerinmonostearat und/oder Sorbitanmonostearat und/oder Cetylalkohol und/oder Stearylalkohol vorteilhaft sind.Suitable coemulsifiers B are all lipophilic emulsifiers such as fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols having an HLB less than or equal to 7.0, glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate and / or cetyl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol being particularly advantageous.
In erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen nimmt die flüssige Ölphasen, die ausIn preparations according to the invention, the liquid oil phases which precipitate out
flüssigen Lipiden wie zum Beispiel Esterölen, Triglyceriden, Silikonölen, insbesondere unpolaren Lipide wie zum Beispiel Mineralöln,liquid lipids such as ester oils, triglycerides, silicone oils, especially non-polar lipids such as mineral oils,
flüssige Lichtschutzfiltern wie zum Beispiel Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamat, Ethylhexyl Salicylat, Octocrylen,Liquid sunscreen filters such as, for example, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene,
- flüssigen fettlöslichen Vitaminen (z. B. Vitamin E),- liquid fat-soluble vitamins (eg vitamin E),
natürliche Lipiden wie z. B. Macadamiaöl, Mandelöl, Avocadoöl, Jojobaöl,natural lipids such. Macadamia oil, almond oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil,
bis zu 5 Gew.-% in Anspruch. Der Anteil von C14 bis C22 Fettsäuren wird im Bereich von 3 bis 13 Gew.-% gewählt, wobei der Coemulgator einen Gehalt von 3 Gew.-% nicht überschreiten soll.up to 5% by weight. The proportion of C14 to C22 fatty acids is selected in the range of 3 to 13 wt .-%, wherein the co-emulsifier should not exceed a content of 3 wt .-%.
Von großem Vorteil ist es, wenn Emulgator A und Coemulgator B in einem Verhältnis von 3:1 bis 15:1 zueinander stehen, besonders vorteilhaft ist ein Verhältnis von 4:1 bis 10:1 wobei ein Optimum im Bereich von 4:1 bis 7:1 erhalten wird. Der Gesamtgehalt an Emulgatoren A muss mindestens 5 Gew.-% der Zubereitung ausmachen, sollte jedoch, um eine gute Veträglichkeit zu gewährleisten, nicht über 15 Gw.-% betragen.It is of great advantage if emulsifier A and co-emulsifier B are in a ratio of 3: 1 to 15: 1 to each other, particularly advantageous is a ratio of 4: 1 to 10: 1 with an optimum in the range of 4: 1 to 7 : 1 is received. The total content of emulsifiers A must be at least 5% by weight of the preparation, but should not exceed 15% by weight in order to ensure good compatibility.
Des weiteren ist es vorteilhaft, die Zubereitung mit Elektrolyten anzureichern, da dadurch das stumpfe Hautgefühl nachhaltig verstärkt wird. Elektrolyte halten sich aufgrund ihrer polaren Eigenschaften bevorzug in der Wasserphase der Zubereitung auf. Die erfinderischen Emulsionen zeigen eine für kosmetische Anwendungen ausreichende Stabilität bis zu einem Gehalt an 5 Gew.-% an Elektrolyten.Furthermore, it is advantageous to enrich the preparation with electrolytes, as this permanently enhances the dull skin feeling. Due to their polar properties, electrolytes preferentially stay in the water phase of the preparation. The inventive emulsions show sufficient stability for cosmetic applications up to a content of 5% by weight of electrolytes.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Elektrolyte sind:Advantageous electrolytes according to the invention are:
Anorganischer Salze (insbesondere Erdalkali- und Alkalisalze welche ein Chlorid-, Sulfat ganz besonders NaCI, KCl, NH4CI, ZnCI2, MgCI und MgSO4)Inorganic salts (especially alkaline earth and alkali salts containing a chloride, especially NaCl, KCl, NH 4 Cl, ZnCl 2 , MgCl and MgSO 4 sulfate)
- Wasserlöslich Lichtfilter - Unter wasserlöslichen Lichtschutzfiltern sind hierbei alle UV- absorbierenden Inhaltsstoffe zu verstehen, die in der wässrigen Phase vorliegen- Water Soluble Light Filter - Water soluble sunscreen filters are understood to mean all UV absorbing ingredients present in the aqueous phase
Salzen von natürlicherweise in der Haut vorkommenden Säuren (z. B. des Energiestoffwechsels wie Natriumliponat, Natriumeitrat, Ammoniumlactat, Natriumlactat, Natriumbi- carbonat, Natriumeitrat) bzw. schwachen Carbonsäuren (z. B. Natriumpropionat)Salts of naturally occurring acids in the skin (eg the energy metabolism such as sodium liponate, sodium citrate, ammonium lactate, sodium lactate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium citrate) or weak carboxylic acids (eg sodium propionate)
Natürliche Mischungen von Salzen, insbesondere MeeresmineralienNatural mixtures of salts, especially marine minerals
Zucker mit einer Molmasse bis 600 g/mol, insbesondere Sorbitol, Mannitol, Sucrose, GIu- coseSugar with a molecular weight of up to 600 g / mol, in particular sorbitol, mannitol, sucrose, glucose
Aminosäuren, insbesondere Glycin, Alanin und/oder AsparaginAmino acids, in particular glycine, alanine and / or asparagine
Die Zubereitungen zeigen ab einem Gehalt von 0,002 mol/l an Elektolyten (bezogen auf die wässrige Phase) ein verstärkt stumpfes Hautgefühl, wobei das Maximium an .Stumpfigkeit' zwischen 0,07 und 0,35 mol/l erreicht wird.The preparations show, from a content of 0.002 mol / l of electrolytes (based on the aqueous phase) an increasingly dull skin feeling, the maximum of "stumpiness" between 0.07 and 0.35 mol / l is achieved.
Es ist vorteilhaft aeide Elektrolyte in der Zubereitung mit alkalischen Medien zu neutralisieren, voteilhaft werden hierzu Triethanolamin, Natriumhydroxid oder Kaliumhydroxid, insbesondere Triethanolamin-Lösungen, verwendet. Die erfinderischen Zubereitungen können insbesondere durch die Einarbeitung von wasserlöslichen Lichtschutzfiltern aufgewertet werden. Unter wasserlöslichen Lichtschutzfiltern sind hierbei alle UV-absorbierenden Inhaltsstoffe zu verstehen, die in der wässrigen Phase vorliegen, wobei auch hydrophobe partikuläre Lichtschutzfilter wie Metalloxide darunter zu verstehen sind.It is advantageous to neutralize aeide electrolytes in the preparation with alkaline media, it is wise to use triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, in particular triethanolamine solutions. The inventive preparations can be upgraded in particular by the incorporation of water-soluble sunscreen filters. Water-soluble sunscreen filters are to be understood as meaning all UV-absorbing ingredients which are present in the aqueous phase, hydrophobic particulate sunscreen filters, such as metal oxides, being understood here as well.
Erfindngsgemäß vorteilhafte wasserlösliche Lichtschutzfilter, die gleichzeitig auch Elektrolyte sind, sind Phenylbenzimidazol-Sulfonsäure, insbesondere das von der Firma Merck angebotene EUSOLEX 232® und NEO HELIOPAN Typ Hydro® der Firma Symrise, und Dinatrium Phenyl Dibenzimidazol Tetrasulfonat, insbesondere NEO HELOPAN AP® der Firma Symrise.According to the invention, advantageous water-soluble light protection filters, which are also electrolytes, are phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, in particular the EUSOLEX 232® and NEO HELIOPAN type Hydro® from Symrise offered by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, in particular NEO HELOPAN AP® from Symrise ,
Neben dem UV-Schutz bringen bringen die partikulären Lichtschutzfilter einen mattierenden Effekt mit sich, der sich hervorragend mit dem stumpfen Hautgefühl verträgt. Insbesondere geeignet sind dazu Titandioxid und/oder Zinkoxid, wobei die Oberfläche der Oxide anorganisch oder organisch modifiziert sein kann.In addition to the UV protection bring the particulate sunscreen filter with a matting effect, which is excellent with the dull skin feel. Particularly suitable for this purpose are titanium dioxide and / or zinc oxide, where the surface of the oxides can be modified inorganically or organically.
Zusätzlich können die Zubereitungen weitere Substanzen enthalten, die den mattierenden Effekt verstärken. Insbesondere Fettalkohole, Fettsäureester, wasser- und ölunlösliche feste Partikel, wie z. B. organische und anorganische Polymere, Stärken, Stärken, modifizierte Stärke, Mica, TaIc, Silica, Silikate, Schichtsilikate, Nylon-, PMMA-, Methyl Methacrylate-, Methacrylate-, Polyurethane-, Polyethylene-, Polytetrafluoro-ethylen-, Polyacrylsäureester- Polymere und/oder deren Cross- bzw. Copolymere., In addition, the preparations may contain other substances that enhance the matting effect. In particular, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, water and oil insoluble solid particles, such as. As organic and inorganic polymers, starches, starches, modified starch, mica, TaIc, silica, silicates, phyllosilicates, nylon, PMMA, methyl methacrylates, methacrylates, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyacrylsäureester- Polymers and / or their cross- or copolymers.,
Beispielrezepturenexample recipes
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Die Zahlenwerte in den Beispielen bedeuten Gewichtsprozente, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der jeweiligen Zubereitungen.The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.
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Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Kosmetische Emulsion enthaltend1. Cosmetic emulsion containing
- ein oder mehrere C14 bis C22 Fettsäuren als Emulgator A undone or more C14 to C22 fatty acids as emulsifier A and
- ein oder mehrere lipophile Emulgatoren mit einem HLB < 7 als Coemulgatoren B,one or more lipophilic emulsifiers having an HLB <7 as coemulsifiers B,
dadurch gekennzeichnet,characterized,
dass das Massenverhältnis von Emulgatoren A und Coemulgatoren B von 3:1 bis 15:1 beträgt und die Gesamtkonzentration an Emulgatoren A mindestens 5 Gew-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, beträgt und dass in der wässrigen Phasen einen oder mehrere Elektrolyte enthalten sind, wobei die lonenstärke der wässrigen Phase, in der der oder die Elektrolyse ) gelöst vorliegen, mindestens 0,002mol/l beträgt.the mass ratio of emulsifiers A and co-emulsifiers B is from 3: 1 to 15: 1 and the total concentration of emulsifiers A is at least 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, and one or more electrolytes are present in the aqueous phase , wherein the ionic strength of the aqueous phase in which the electrolysis or electrolysis) are dissolved, is at least 0.002 mol / l.
2. Kosmetische Emulsion nach mindestens einem der vorhergehendnen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Konzentration des Emulgators A 3-10 Gew.%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, beträgt.2. Cosmetic emulsion according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of the emulsifier A 3-10 wt.%, Based on the total weight of the preparation is.
3. Kosmetische Emulsion nach mindestens einem der vorhergehendnen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Coemulgator B aus der Gruppe der Fettalkohole und/oder Glycerylester stammt.3. Cosmetic emulsion according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the co-emulsifier B is selected from the group of fatty alcohols and / or glyceryl esters.
4. Kosmetische Emulsion nach mindestens einem der vorhergehendnen Anspruch, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Cooemulgator B Glycerinmonostearat und/oder Sorbitanmonostearat und/oder Cetylalkohol und/oder Stearylalkohol ist.4. Cosmetic emulsion according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the co-emulsifier B is glycerol monostearate and / or sorbitan monostearate and / or cetyl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol.
5. Kosmetische Emulsion nach mindestens einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Gesamtemulgatorkonzentration (Emulgator A + Coemulgator B) höchstens 15 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, beträgt.5. Cosmetic emulsion according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total emulsifier concentration (emulsifier A + Coemulgator B) is at most 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.
6. Kosmetische Emulsion nach mindestens einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Elektrolytgehalt zwischen 0,001 und 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung liegt. 6. Cosmetic emulsion according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the electrolyte content is between 0.001 and 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.
7. Kosmetische Emulsion nach mindestens einem der vorhergehendnen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Elektrolyt ein wasserlöslicher UV-absorbierender Bestandteil ist.Cosmetic emulsion according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the electrolyte is a water-soluble UV-absorbing constituent.
8. Kosmetische Emulsion nach mindestens einem der vorhergehendnen Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Coemulgator B aus der Gruppe der C14 bis C22 Fettalkohole oder C14 bis C22 Glycerylester gewählt wird.Cosmetic emulsion according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the co-emulsifier B is selected from the group consisting of C14 to C22 fatty alcohols or C14 to C22 glyceryl esters.
9. Verwendung einer Kosmetische Emulsion nach mindestens einem der vorhergehendnen Ansprüche zum Schutz sensibler Haut. 9. Use of a cosmetic emulsion according to at least one of the preceding claims for the protection of sensitive skin.
PCT/EP2006/062035 2005-05-23 2006-05-04 Electrolyte-stable stearate emulsion WO2006125717A1 (en)

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DE19934946A1 (en) * 1999-07-26 2001-02-01 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic and dermatological preparations based on O / W emulsions
DE19934945A1 (en) * 1999-07-26 2001-02-01 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic and dermatological preparations based on O / W emulsions
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GB1109511A (en) * 1965-02-05 1968-04-10 Unilever Ltd Skin cleansing composition
US3970584A (en) * 1973-02-14 1976-07-20 S. C. Johnson & Son, Inc. Aerosol package containing a foam-forming emulsion and propellent system
US6136328A (en) * 1996-10-11 2000-10-24 L'oreal O/W emulsion with a high electrolyte content and its use in dermocosmetics, in particular for treating irritation and/or sensitive skin phenomena
EP0875239A2 (en) * 1997-05-03 1998-11-04 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Use of esters of fatty acids with Di- or oligosaccharids against the adhesion of microorganisms
US6660045B1 (en) * 1997-12-08 2003-12-09 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien (Henkel Kgaa) Hair colorant preparation
US6558680B1 (en) * 1999-07-26 2003-05-06 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic and dermatological preparations based on O/W emulsions
WO2002024155A1 (en) * 2000-09-21 2002-03-28 P & G - Clairol, Inc. Yellow hair color dyeing composition having improved wear properties
EP1216683A1 (en) * 2000-12-19 2002-06-26 Beiersdorf AG Self-foaming or foaming compositions comprising a lipidic phase
EP1250915A1 (en) * 2001-04-19 2002-10-23 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Cosmetic and dermatologic compositions comprising high electrolyt contents

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