WO2006029818A2

WO2006029818A2 - Cosmetic compositions containing an hydroxamic acid compound optionally in combination with a retinoid

Info

Publication number: WO2006029818A2
Application number: PCT/EP2005/009832
Authority: WO
Inventors: Raphael Beumer; Jochen Klock
Original assignee: Dsm Ip Assets B.V.
Priority date: 2004-09-16
Filing date: 2005-09-13
Publication date: 2006-03-23
Also published as: WO2006029818A3

Abstract

The present invention is directed to cosmetic compositions comprising a compound of the general formula (I) wherein L is hydrogen, branched alkyl, aryl, heteroaryl, cycloalkyl, heterocycloalkyl, hydroxyl, OR, HO-(CH2-CH2-O)n, HO-(CH2-O)n, HO-(CH2-CH2-CH2-O)n, HO(CH2-CH(CH3)-O)n, HO-(CH(CH3)-CH2-O)n, NR4R5, C(O)NR6R7, with R being C1-4-alkyl or C2-18-alkanoyl; n being an integer from 1 to 8; R4, R5, R6 and R7 being independently from each other hydrogen or C1-18-alkyl; R1 is alkylene, alkenylene or alkinylene, optionally substituted with one or more methyl or ethyl groups; R2 is hydrogen or alkyl; and R3 is hydrogen, alkyl, or a cosmetically acceptable cation; and a carrier conventionally used in cosmetic compositions. The compositions preferably comprise additionally a retinoid. The present invention concerns further inter alia the use of such compositions for the treatment or prevention of any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, as wel as for the promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss.

Description

Novel cosmetic compositions

The present invention is concerned with novel cosmetic compositions. More particularly, the invention is concerned with novel cosmetic compositions for treating or preventing any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, as well as for the promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss.

Thus, in one aspect, the present invention is concerned with cosmetic compositions com¬ prising a compound of the general formula (I)

wherein

L is hydrogen, branched alkyl, aryl, heteroaryl,. cycloalkyl, heterocycloalkyl, hydroxyl, OR,

HO-(CH₂-CH₂-O)_n, HO-(CH₂-O)_n, HO-(CH₂-CH₂-CH₂-O)_n, HO-(CH₂-CH(CH₃)- O)_n, HO-(CH(CH₃)-CH₂-O)_n, NR⁴R⁵, C(O)NR⁶R⁷, with R being C_1-4-alkyl or C_2-18-alkanoyl; n being an integer from 1 to 8; R⁴, R⁵, R⁶ and R⁷ being independently from each other hydrogen or

R¹ is alkylene, alkenylene or alkinylene, optionally substituted with one or more methyl or ethyl groups; R² is hydrogen or alkyl; and

R³ is hydrogen, alkyl, or a cosmetically acceptable cation; and a carrier conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.

Preferably L is hydrogen, phenyl or hydroxyl.

The expression "alkyl" encompasses straight chain as well as branched alkyl groups, i.e. that "C_1-4-alkyl" encompasses straight chain C_1-4-alkyl (methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl) as well as branched C_3-4-alkyl (iso-propyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl). The same applies for "C_1-18- alkyl". The expression "C_2-18-alkanoyl" encompasses "C_1-17-alkyl-CO₂-", wherein the al¬ kyl group is straight chain as well as "C_3-17-alkyl-CO₂-", wherein the alkyl group is branched. The term "aryl" encompasses unsubstituted phenyl as well as phenyl with one to five substituents selected from the group consisting of C_1-4-alkyl, C_1-4-alkyloxy and NR⁸R⁹ with R⁸ and R⁹ being independently from each other hydrogen or C_1-4-alkyl.

The term "heteroaryl" encompasses aromatic ring systems containing 3 to5 carbon atoms and at least one hetero atom such as oxygen, sulphur and nitrogen. These heteroaryls may optionally be substituted by C_1-4-alkyl, C_1-4-alkyloxy and/or NR R with R and R being independently from each other hydrogen or C_1-4-alkyl. Examples of "heteroaryls" are 1-12-1 3-/4-pyridyl, 2-/3-furyl and 2-/3-thiophenyl.

The term "cycloalkyl" encompasses saturated cyclic ring systems containing 5 to 8 carbon atoms such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, and cyclooctyl, as well as these ring systems containing one or two double bonds. These (un)saturated cycloalkyls may option¬ ally be substituted by C_1-4-alkyl, C_1-4-alkyloxy and/or NR⁸R⁹ with R⁸ and R⁹ being inde¬ pendently from each other hydrogen or C_1-4-alkyl.

The term "heterocycloalkyl" encompasses saturated cyclic ring systems containing 3 to 7 carbon atoms and at least one hetero atom such as oxygen, sulphur and nitrogen, as well as these ring systems containing one or two double bonds. These (un)saturated heterocycloal- kyls may optionally be substituted by C_1-4-alkyl, C_1-4-alkyloxy and/or NR⁸R⁹ with R⁸ and R⁹ being independently from each other hydrogen or C_1-4-alkyl.

The term "alkylene" encompasses straight chain or branched alkyl-diradicals which are optionally substituted by methyl and/or ethyl groups. Preferred "alkylenes" (R¹) are men¬ tioned below. The term "alkenylene" encompasses straight chain or branched alkenyl- diradicals which are optionally substituted by methyl and/or ethyl groups, i.e. these diradi- cals contain at least one double bond. Preferred examples (R¹) are mentioned below. The term "alkinylene" encompasses straight chain or branched alkinyl-diradicals which are optionally substituted by methyl and/or ethyl groups, i.e. these diradicals contain at least one triple bond. Preferred examples (R¹) are mentioned below.

By ,,a cosmetically acceptable cation" is meant any metal cation as well as any organic cation that is not toxic to the skin and/or does not cause allergic reactions. Examples of such cations are ammonium salts ⁴NR¹⁰R¹¹R¹²R¹³ with R¹⁰, R¹¹, R¹² and R¹³ being inde- pendently from each other hydrogen or C_1-4-alkyl.

In preferred embodiments of the present invention compounds of the general formula (Ia) are used

wherein

R¹ is non-substituted alkylene, non-substituted alkenylene or non-substituted alkinylene;

R² is hydrogen or alkyl; and

R³ is hydrogen, alkyl, or a cosmetically acceptable cation.

In a further aspect, the invention is concerned with cosmetic compositions comprising a compound of the general formula (I) and/or a compound of the formula (Ia) as defined above, and a retinoid.

More specifically, the invention is concerned with cosmetic compositions comprising at least one compound of the general formula (I)/(Ia) as defined above, and, optionally, at least one retinoid, for the treatment or prevention of symptoms caused by negative devel¬ opments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, as well as for the promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss.

In still another aspect, the invention is concerned with a method of treatment or prevention of symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy - A - skin, as well as for the promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss which method provides topically administering to a person in need of such treatment or preven¬ tion an effective amount of a compound of the general formula (I)/(Ia) as defined above, optionally in combination with a retinoid.

In the compounds of formulae (I) and (Ia), R¹ is preferably straight chain alkylene, al- kenylene or alkinylene having up to 15 carbon atoms. More preferably, R¹ is straight chain alkylene having from 7 to 13 carbon atoms, such as n-heptylene, n-nonylene, n-undecylene and n-tridecylene. Straight chain alkenylene groups may contain more than one double bond, e.g. up to 4 double bonds. Preferably, alkenylene groups contain one double bond such as 2-octenylene and 2-dodecenylene. Straight chain alkinylene groups may contain more than one triple bond, e.g. 1 or 2 triple bonds and may additionally contain one or more double bonds. Preferably, alkinylene groups contain one triple bond, such as 2- octinylene.

Alkyl groups represented by R² and R³ preferably contain 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl and n-butyl.

Examples of cosmetically acceptable cations represented by R³ are cations conventionally found in cosmetic preparations, e.g., alkali cations such as sodium and potassium ions and alkaline earth metal cations such as calcium und magnesium ions.

Particularly preferred compounds of the general formulae (I) and (Ia) are those wherein R¹ is straight chain alkylene having from 7 to 13 carbon atoms; R² is hydrogen; and R³ is hy- drogen.

Typical examples of compounds of the general formula (I) are

Octanoic acid hydroxamide (CAS 7377-03-9) Decanoic acid hydroxamide (CAS 2259-85-0)

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide (CAS 10335-68-9)

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide (CAS 17698-03-2)

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide (CAS 17698-04-3)

N-Methoxy-dodecanamide (CAS 185445-14-1) N-Hydroxy-N-methyl-dodecanamide (CAS 52753-89-6)

N-Ethyl-N-hydroxy-octanamide (CAS 147964-54-3)

N-Hydroxy-2-octenamide (CAS 134784-48-8)

N-Hydroxy-2-dodecenamide (CAS 72070-99-6) N-Hydroxy-2-octinamide (CAS 85594-26-9), as well as the compounds

8-phenyl-octanoic acid hydroxamide (CAS 114917-94-1), decanoic acid hydroxy-methyl-amide (CAS 99450-83-6), decanoic acid methoxy-amide (novel compound) and 6-hydroxy-hexanoic acid hydroxyamide (CAS 34092-86-9).

Especially preferred examples of compounds of the formula (I) are octanoic acid hydroxamide, decanoic acid hydroxamide, dodecanoic acid hydroxamide, tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide, hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide, 8-phenyl-octanoic acid hydroxamide, decanoic acid hydroxy-methyl-amide, decanoic acid methoxy-amide and 6-hydroxy- hexanoic acid hydroxyamide.

Retinoids for use in the invention are, e.g., retinol and isomers, e.g. 9-, 11- or 13-cis iso¬ mers thereof, and derivatives thereof which comprise retinyl esters such as the acetate, phenylbutyrate, propanoate, laurate, palmitate, oleate, linoleate; or retinyl alkyl carbonate; or ethers such as retinoxytrimethylsilane; or (all trans)-retinal or its acetals; or retinoic acid or amides thereof such as methoxy PEG-12 retinamide ("PEG- 12" = -(CH₂-CH₂-O-)₁₂).

The term "cosmetic composition" as used herein refers to topical compositions for care of the human skin, see also the heading "Kosmetika" in Rompp Lexikon Chemie, 10th edition 1997, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York. Examples of cosmetic compositions are liquid or solid oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions, mi- croemulsions, PET-emulsions, bickering emulsions, hydrogels, alcoholic gels, lipogels, one or multiphase solutions, foams, ointments, plasters, suspensions, powders, cremes, cleanser, soaps and other usual compositions, which are applied topically including the application by pens, as masks or as sprays. All such compositions being applied topically the cosmetic compositions of this invention are also referred to herein as topical composi¬ tions. While, typically, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention contain one of the compounds of the general formulae (I) and/or (Ia) above, the invention is not limited to that particular aspect and two or more compounds of the general formulae (I) and/or (Ia) may be present. As stated above, a retinoid may be additionally present, providing an addi- tive or synergistic cosmetic effect, i.e. an improvement or prevention of symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, as well as promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss. Again, two or more retinoids may be present. If a retinoid is present in the compositions of the present invention, the ratio of the compound of the general formulae (I) and/or (Ia) to the retinoid is suitably from about 1000: 1 to 1 : 1000, more preferably from about 100: 1 to 1 : 100 and in particular from about 30:1 to 1:30 by weight. The compounds of the general formulae (I) and (Ia) show also an additive or synergistic effect with the retinoids being already present in the human skin.

In the compositions provided by the present invention, the amount of compound of the general formulae (I) and/or (Ia) is suitably from about 0.0001 to about 50 %, preferably from about 0.001 to about 20 % by weight of the total composition. If a retinoid is present, the amount of the latter is suitably is from about 0.0001 to about 50 % by weight and pref¬ erably from about 0.001 to about 20 % by weight of the total composition.

As stated above, the compositions according to the present invention can be used for the treatment or prevention of symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiologi¬ cal homeostasis of healthy skin, as well as for the promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss. Treatment or prevention of symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin comprises treatment or prevention of wrin- kles or dry skin or sensitive skin, thickening of the epidermis, inhibition of senescence of skin cells, prevention or treatment of photodamage, prevention or treatment of oxidative stress phenomena, prevention or treatment of cellulite, prevention and treatment of distur¬ bances in ceramide and lipid synthesis, prevention of excess sebum production, reduction of activities of matrix metallo proteases or other proteases in the skin, treatment and pre- vention of inflammatory skin conditions including acne (= anti-acne), atopic eczema, po¬ lymorphic light eruption, psoriasis and vertiligo. The compositions according to the present invention can further be used for the treatment or prevention of itchy or irritated skin or for fortifying the pigmentation (the latter, however, only, if no retinoid but a tanning active is present.). If retinoid is, however, present in the composition of this invention the composi- tion can be used for the prevention or treatment of pigmentation disorders and/or for pro¬ viding an even skin tone, since the boosting of retinoids by compounds of the formula (I)/(Ia) may lead to a depigmentation.

Preverably the compositions of the present invention are used for the treatment or preven¬ tion of wrinkles or dry skin or sensitive skin, for the promotion of hair growth, for the pro¬ tection from hair loss, for thickening the epidermis, (if retinoid is present) for the preven¬ tion or treatment of pigmentation disorders and/or for providing an even skin tone, and/or (if retinoid is absent and a tanning active is present) for fortifying the pigmentation. The composition according to the present invention, i.e. the compound of the general formulae (I)/(Ia), may fortify the pigmentation by enhancing the effect of a tanning active.

The compositions of the invention can also contain usual cosmetic or pharmaceutical adju¬ vants and additives, such as preservatives/ antioxidants, fatty substances/ oils, water, or~ ganic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, sunscreens, antifoaming agents, moisturizers, fragrances, surfactants, fillers, sequestering agents, anionic, cationic, non- ionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, dyes, colorants, pigments or nanopigments, e.g. those suited for providing a photo- protective effect by physically blocking out ultraviolet radiation, or any other ingredients usually formulated into cosmetics or medicaments.

An additional amount of antioxidants/ preservatives is generally preferred. Based on the invention all known antioxidants usually formulated into cosmetics or medicaments can be used. Especially preferred are antioxidants chosen from the group consisting of amino ac- ids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and their derivatives, imidazole (e.g. uro- canic acid) and derivatives, peptides such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives, chlorogenic acid and derivatives, lipoic acid and derivatives (e.g. dihydrol- ipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxine, glu- tathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and its glycosyl-, N-acetyl-, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, amyl-, butyl- and lauryl-, palmitoyl-; oleyl-, y-linoleyl-, cholesteryl- and glycerylester) and the salts thereof, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (ester, ether, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (such as buthioninsulfoximine, homocysteinsulfoximine, buthioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low compatible doses (e.g. pmol to μmol/kg), additionally (metal)-chelators (such as α-hydroxyfatty acids, pal- mic-, phytinic acid, lactoferrin), β-hydroxyacids (such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), huminic acid, gallic acid, gallic extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and its derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (such as γ-linoleic acid, linolic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their deriva¬ tives, vitamin C and derivatives (such as ascorbylpalmitate and ascorbyltetraisopalmitate, Mg-ascorbylphosphate, Na-ascorbylphosphate, Na-ascorbylacetate), tocopherol and deriva¬ tives (such as vitamin-E-acetate), mixtures of natural or synthetic vitamin E, vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin- A-palmitate and -acetate) as well as coniferylbenzoat, rutinic acid and derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxy- toluene, butylhydroxyanisole, trihydroxybutyrophenone, urea and its derivatives, mannose and derivatives, zinc and derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives (e.g. selenomethionin), stilbenes and derivatives (such as stilbenoxide, trans-stilbenoxide) and suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of the named active ingredients. One or more preservatives/antioxidants may be present in an amount about 0.01 weight% to about 10 weight% of the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Preferably, one or more preservatives/antioxidants are present in an amount about 0.1 weight% to about 1 weight%.

Typically topical formulations also contain surface active ingredients like emulsifiers, solubilizers and the like. An emulsifier enables two or more immiscible components to be combined homogeneously. Moreover, the emulsifier acts to stabilize the composition. Emulsifiers that may be used in the present invention in order to form OAV, W/O, 0/W/O or W/OAV emulsions/ microemulsions include sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbi- tan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol esters of oleic/isostearic acid, polyglyceryl-6 hexaricinolate, polyglyceryl-4-oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate/PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, oleamide DEA, TEA myristate, TEA stearate, magnesium stearate, sodium stearate, potassium laurate, potassium ricinoleate, sodium cocoate, sodium tallowate, potassium castorate, sodium oleate, and mixtures thereof. Fur¬ ther suitable emulsifiers are phosphate esters and the salts thereof such as cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^® A), diethanolamine cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^®), potassium cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^® K), sodium glyceryl oleate phosphate, hydrogenated vegetable glyceride phos- phates and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, one or more synthetic polymers may be used as an emulsifier. For example, PVP eicosene copolymer, acrylates/C_lo-3o alkyl acrylate cross- polymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, PEG-22/dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-45/dodecyl glycol copolymer, and mixtures thereof. The preferred emulsifiers are cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^® A), diethanolamine cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^®), potassium cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^® K), PVP Eicosene copolymer, acrylates/C_lo-3o-alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan isostearate, and mixtures thereof. The one or more emulsifiers are present in a total amount about 0.01 weight% to about 20 weight% of the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Preferably, about 0.1 weight% to about 10 weight% of emulsifiers is used.

The lipid phase of the topical compositions can advantageously be chosen from: mineral oils and mineral waxes; oils such as triglycerides of caprinic acid or caprylic acid and castor oil;

oils or waxes and other natural or synthetic oils, in a preferred embodiment esters of fatty acids with alcohols e.g. isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin or esters of fatty alcohols with carboxylic acids or fatty acids; alkylbenzoates; and/or silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, cyclomethicones and mixtures thereof.

Exemplary fatty substances which can be incorporated in the oil phase of the emulsion, microemulsion, oleo gel, hydrodispersion or lipodispersion of the present invention are advantageously chosen from esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl carboxylic acids with 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and saturated and/or unsaturated, linear and/or branched alcohols with 3 to 30 carbon atoms as well as esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and of saturated and/or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols of 3-30 carbon atoms. Such esters can advantageously be selected from octylpalmitate, octylcocoate, octyl- isostearate, octyldodecylmyristate, cetearylisononanoate, isopropylmyristate, isopropyl- palmitate, isopropylstearate, isopropyloleate, n-butylstearate, n-hexyllaureate, n-decyloleat, isooctylstearate, isononylstearate, isononylisononanoate, 2- ethyl hexylpalmitate, 2-ethyl- hexyllaurate, 2-hexyldecylstearate, 2-octyldodecylpalmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyloleate, oleylerucate, erucyloleate, erucylerucate, tridecylstearate, tridecyltrimellitate, as well as synthetic, half-synthetic or natural mixtures of such esters e.g. jojoba oil.

Other fatty components suitable for use in the topical compositions of the present inven- tion include polar oils such as lecithines and fatty acid triglycerides, namely triglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, straight or branched carboxylic acid with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 18 carbon-atoms whereas the fatty acid triglycerides are preferably chosen from synthetic, half synthetic or natural oils (e.g. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sun flower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rape seed oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coco- nut oil, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, wheat oil, grape seed oil, macadamia nut oil and others); apolar oils such as linear and/ or branched hydrocarbons and waxes e.g. mineral oils, vaseline (petrolatum); paraffins, squalane and squalene, polyolefines, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecanes, favored polyolefines are polydecenes; dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylylether; linear or cyclic silicone oils such as preferably cyclomethicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane; cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydi- methylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane) and mixtures thereof.

Still other fatty components which can advantageously be incorporated in topical com¬ positions of the present invention are isoeikosane; neopentylglykoldiheptanoate; pro- pyleneglykoldicaprylate/ dicaprate; caprylic/ capric/ diglycerylsuccinate; butylenglykol caprylat/caprat; C_12-13-alkyllactate; di-C_12-13 alkyltartrate; triisostearin; dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylat/hexacaprate; propylenglycolmonoisostearate; tricaprylin; dimethylisosorbid. Especially beneficial is the use of mixtures C_12-15-alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyliso- stearate, mixtures C_12-15-alkylbenzoate and isotridecylisononanoate as well as mixtures of C_12-15-alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexylisostearate and isotridecylisononanoate.

The oily phase of the compositions of the present invention can also contain natural vege¬ table or animal waxes such as bee wax, china wax, bumblebee wax and other waxes of insects as well as shea butter and cocoa butter.

A moisturizing agent may be incorporated into a topical composition of the present inven¬ tion to maintain hydration or rehydrate the skin. Moisturizers that prevent water from evaporating from the skin by providing a protective coating are called emollients. Additionally an emollient provides a softening or soothing effect on the skin surface and is generally considered safe for topical use. Preferred emollients include mineral oils, lanolin, petrolatum, capric/caprylic triglyceraldehydes, cholesterol, silicones such as dimeticone, cyclometicone, almond oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, castor oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil and grape seed oil, cocoa butter, olive oil aloe extracts, fatty acids such as oleic and stearic, fatty alcohols such as cetyl and hexadecyl (ENJAY), diisopropyl adipate, hy- droxybenzoate esters, benzoic acid esters of Cg_-15-alcohols, isononyl iso-nonanoate, ethers such as polyoxypropylene butyl ethers and polyoxypropylene cetyl ethers, and C_12-15-alkyl benzoates, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred emollients are hydroxybenzoate es- ters, aloe vera, C_12-15-alkyl benzoates, and mixtures thereof. An emollient is present in an amount of about 1 weight% to about 20 weight% of the total weight of the composition. The preferred amount of emollient is about 2 weight% to about 15 weight%, and most preferably about 4 weight% to about 10 weight%.

Moisturizers that bind water, thereby retaining it on the skin surface are called humectants. Suitable humectants can be incorporated into a topical composition of the present inven¬ tion such as glycerin, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, lactic acid, pyrrolidon carboxylic acid, urea, phopholipids, collagen, elastin, ceramides, lecithin sorbitol, PEG-4, and mixtures thereof. Additional suitable moisturizers are polymeric moisturizers of the family of water soluble and/ or swellable/ and/ or with water gelating polysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chitosan and/or a fucose rich polysaccharide which is e.g. available as Fucogel®1000 (CAS-Nr. 178463-23-5) by SOLABIA S. One or more humectants are op¬ tionally present at about 0.5 weight% to about 8 weight% in a composition of the present invention, preferably about 1 weight% to about 5 weight%.

The aqueous phase of the preferred topical compositions of the present invention can con¬ tain the usual cosmetic or pharmaceutical additives such as alcohols, especially lower al¬ cohols, preferably ethanol and/ or isopropanol, low diols or polyols and their ethers, pref¬ erably propyleneglycol, glycerin, ethyleneglycol, ethyleneglycol monoethyl- or monobu- tylether, propyleneglycol monomethyl- or -monoethyl- or-monobutylether, diethylenegly- col monomethyl-or monoethylether and analogue products, polymers, foam stabilisators; electrolytes and especially one or more thickeners. Thickeners that may be used in formulations of the present invention to assist in making the consistency of a product suitable include carbomer, siliciumdioxide, magnesium and/ or aluminium silicates, beeswax, stearic acid, stearyl alcohol polysaccharides and their derivatives such as xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyacrylamides, acrylate crosspolymers preferably a carbomer, such as carbopole^® of type 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984 alone or mixtures thereof.

Suitable neutralizing agents which may be included in the composition of the present in¬ vention to neutralize components such as e.g. an emulsifier or a foam builder/stabilizer include but are not limited to alkali hydroxides such as a sodium and potassium hydroxide; organic bases such as diethanolamine (DEA), triethanolamine (TEA), aminomethyl propa- nol, and mixtures thereof; amino acids such as arginine and lysine and any combination of any foregoing. The neutralizing agent can be present in an amount of about 0.01 weight% to about 8 weight% in the composition of the present invention, preferably, 1 weight% to about 5 weight%.

The addition of electrolytes into the composition of the present invention may be necessary to change the behavior of a hydrophobic emulsifier. Thus, the emulsions/ microemulsions of this invention may contain preferably electrolytes of one or several salts including ani- ons such as chloride, sulfates, carbonate, borate and aluminate, without being limited thereto. Other suitable electrolytes can be on the basis of organic anions such as, but not limited to, lactate, acetate, benzoate, propionate, tartrate and citrate. As cations preferably ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali- or alkaline earth metals, magnesium-, iron- or zinc- ions are selected. Especially preferred salts are potassium and sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof. Electrolytes can be present in an amount of about 0.01 weight% to about 8 weight% in the composition of the present invention.

The topical compositions of the invention can preferably be provided in the form of a lo¬ tion, a thickened lotion, a gel, a cream, a milk, an ointment, a powder or a solid tube stick and can be optionally be packaged as an aerosol and can be provided in the form of a mousse, foam or a spray. The compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of a suspension or dispersion in solvents or fatty substances, or alternatively in the form of an emulsion or microemulsion (in particular of O/W or W/O type, 0/W/O or W/O/W-type), such as a cream or a milk, a vesicular dispersion, in the form of an oint- ment, a gel, a solid tube stick or an aerosol mousse. The emulsions can also contain ani¬ onic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants.

The topical application is preferably at least once per day, e.g. twice or three times a day. Usually it takes at least two weeks until the desired effect is achieved. However, it can take several weeks or even months until the desired effect is fully maximized.

The amount of the topical composition, which is to be applied to the skin depends on the concentration of the active ingredients in the compositions and the desired cosmetic or pharmaceutical effect. For example, application can be such that a crέme is applied to the skin. A creme is usually applied in an amount of 2 mg creme/cm² skin. The amount of the composition which is applied to the skin is, however, not critical, and if with a certain amount of applied composition the desired effect cannot be achieved, a higher concentra¬ tion of the active ingredients can be used e.g. by applying more of the composition or by applying compositions which contain more active ingredient.

According to the invention for preparing the compositions the active ingredients can be used as such or in an encapsulated form, for example in a liposomal form. Liposomes are preferably formed with lecithins with or without addition of sterols or phytosterols. The encapsulation of the active ingredients can be alone or together with other active ingredi¬ ents. It is possible to encapsulate only the compound of formula (I)/(Ia) or only the reti¬ noid, but it is also possible to encapsulate both ingredients either together or in separate capsules.

Other embodiments include solid or semisolid capsules aiming to protect the retinoid from degradation or for controlled delivery. The capsule may contain the retinoid alone or to¬ gether with the compound of formula (I) and/or the compound of the formula (Ia). Suitable encapsulation technologies are for example described in WO 0180823, WO 9903450, WO 9317784 or in Fragrance Journal (2001), 29(2), 83-90.

In the composition of the invention the compound of formula (I) and/or the compound of the formula (Ia) and the retinoid are independently contained in an amount of preferably 0.0001 weight% to about 50 weight%, based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the compound of formula (I)/(Ia) and the retinoid are independently contained in the composition in an amount of about 0.001 weight% to about 20 weight%, more pref¬ erably in an amount of about 0.01 weight% to about 1 weight%, in particular the com¬ pound of formula (I)/(Ia) in an amount of about 0.5 weight% and the retinoid in an amount of about 0.1 weight%, based on the total amount of the composition.

Regarding the kind of the topical preparation and the preparation of the topical prepara¬ tions as well as for further suitable additives, it can be referred to the pertinent literature, e.g. to Novak G.A., Die kosmetischen Praparate - Band 2, Die kosmetischen Praparate - Rezeptur, Rohstoffe, wissenschaftliche Grundlagen (Verlag fur Chem. Industrie H. Ziolkowski KG, Augsburg).

Additionally the composition of the present invention may contain UV-A and UV-B filters. Examples of such filters or screening agents are disclosed, e.g., in WO 04/000256, see es¬ pecially pages 10-12.

Further examples of UV-B or broad spectrum screening agents, i.e. substances having ab¬ sorption maximums between about 290 and 340 nm, which are preferred for combination with the compositions of the present invention, are the following organic and inorganic compounds:

- Acrylates such as 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene, PARSOL® 340), ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate;

- Camphor derivatives such as 4-methyl benzylidene camphor (PARSOL® 5000), 3- benzylidene camphor, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, sulfo benzylidene camphor, sulfomethyl benzylidene cam¬ phor, therephthalidene dicamphor sulfonic acid;

- Cinnamate derivatives such as octyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL® MCX), eth- oxyethyl methoxycinnamate, diethanolamine methoxycinnamate (PARSOL® Hy¬ dro), isoamyl methoxycinnamate and the like as well as cinnamic acid derivatives bond to siloxanes;

- p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, such as p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-ethylhexyl p- dimethylaminobenzoate, N-oxypropylenated ethyl p-aminobenzoate, glyceryl p- aminobenzoate, - Benzophenones such as benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxy- benzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone;

- Esters of Benzalmalonic acid such as di-(2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;

- Esters of 2-(4-ethoxy-anilinomethylene)propanedioic acid such as 2-(4-ethoxy ani- linomethylene)propanedioic acid diethyl ester as described in EP-A 0 895 776;

- Organosiloxane compounds containing benzmalonate groups as described in EP-A 0 358 584, EP-A 0 538 431 and EP-A 0 709 080, in particular Parsol SLX;

- Drometrizole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL);

- Pigments such as microparticulated TiO2, and the like. The term "micro- particulated" refers to a particle size from about 5 nm to about 200 nm, particularly from about 15 nm to about 100 nm. The TiO2 particles may also be coated by metal oxides such as e.g. aluminium or zirconium oxides or by organic coatings such as e.g. polyols, methicone, aluminium stearate, alkyl silane.

- Imidazole derivatives such as e.g. 2-phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid and its salts (PARSOL®HS). Salts of 2-phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid are e.g. alkali salts such as sodium- or potassium salts, ammonium salts, morpholine salts and salts of primary, sec. and tert. amines like monoethanolamine salts and diethanol- amine salts.

- Salicylate derivatives such as isopropylbenzyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, butyl salicylate, octyl salicylate (NEO HELIOPAN OS), isooctyl salicylate or homomen- thyl salicylate (homosalate, HELIOPAN).

- Triazine derivatives such as octyl triazone (UVINUL T-150), dioctyl butamido tria- zone (UVASORB HEB), bis ethoxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S) and the like.

Examples of broad spectrum or UV A screening agents i.e. substances having absorption maximums between about 320 and 400 nm, which are preferred for the compositions of the present invention are the following organic and inorganic compounds:

- Dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-tert. butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (PARSOL® 1789), dimethoxydibenzoylmethane and isopropyldibenzoylmethane;

- Benzotriazole derivatives such as 2,2'-methylene-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-4- (l,l,3,3,-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol (TINOSORB M);

- Phenylene-l,4-bis-benzimidazolsulfonic acids or salts such as 2,2-(l,4- phenylene)bis-(lH-benzimidazol-4,6-disulfonic acid) (Neoheliopan AP); - Amino substituted hydroxybenzophenones such as 2-(4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxy- benzoyl)-benzoic acid hexylester as described in EP-A 1 046 391;

- Pigments such as microparticulated ZnO or TiO₂ and the like. The term "micropar- ticulated" refers to a particle size from about 5 nm to about 200 nm, particularly from about 15 nm to about 100 nm. The particles may also be coated by other metal oxides such as e.g. aluminium or zirconium oxides or by organic coatings such as e.g. polyols, methicone, aluminium stearate, alkyl silane.

- As dibenzoylmethane derivatives have limited photbstability it may be desirable to photostabilize these UV-A screening agents. Thus, the term "conventional UV-A screening agent" also refers to dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as e.g.

PARSOL® 1789 stabilized by, e.g.,

♦ 3,3-Diphenylacrylate derivatives as described in EP-A 0 514 491 and EP-A 0 780 119;

♦ Benzylidene camphor derivatives as described in the US 5,605,680; ♦ Organosiloxanes containing benzmalonate groups as described in EP-A 0 358 584,

EP-A 0 538 431 and EP-A 0 709 080, in particular Parsol SLX.

A good overview of UV-A- and UV-B-filters which can be added to the compositions of the present invention can also be found in DE-A 103 27 432. All UV-filter compounds disclosed in this document are also useful as components for the compositions of the pre¬ sent invention and are included herein by reference.

Regarding the kind of the composition and its preparation as well as further suitable addi¬ tives, it can be referred to the pertinent literature, e.g. to Novak G. A., Die kosmetischen Praparate - Band 2, Die kosmetischen Praparate - Rezeptur, Rohstoffe, wissenschaftliche Grundlagen (Verlag fur Chem. Industrie H. Ziolkowski KG, Augsburg).

The composition can also contain one or more additional pharmaceutically or cosmetically active ingredients, in particular for preventing or reducing acne, wrinkles, lines, atrophy, inflammation, as well as topical anesthetics, artificial tanning agents and accelerators, an¬ timicrobial agents, and antifungal agents and sunscreening additives.

Examples are peptides (e.g., MatrixylTM [pentapeptide derivative]), glycerol, urea, gua- nidine (e.g., amino guanidine); vitamins and derivatives thereof such as ascorbic acid, vi- tamin A (e.g., retinoid derivatives such as retinyl palmitate or retinyl propionate), vitamin E (e.g., tocopherol acetate), vitamin B3 (e.g., niacinamide) and vitamin B5 (e.g., pan- thenol) and the like and mixtures thereof, wax-based synthetic peptides (e.g., octyl palmi¬ tate and tribehenin and sorbitan isostearate and palmitoyl-oligopeptide), anti-acne me- dicaments (resorcinol, salicylic acid, and the like); antioxidants (e.g., phytosterols, lipoic acid); flavonoids (e.g., isoflavones, phytoestrogens); skin soothing and healing agents such as aloe vera extract, allantoin and the like; chelators and sequestrants; and agents suitable for aesthetic purposes such as essential oils, fragrances, skin sensates, opacifiers, aromatic compounds (e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, and eugenol), desquamatory actives, anti-acne actives, vitamin B3 compounds, anti-oxidants, peptides, hydroxy acids, radical scavengers, chelators, farnesol, anti-inflammatory agents, topical anesthetics, tan¬ ning actives, skin-lightening agents, anti-cellulites agents, flavonoids, antimicrobial ac¬ tives, and antifungal actives, in particular bisabolol, alkyldiols such as 1,2-pentanediol, hexanediol or 1,2-octanediol, vitamins, panthenol, phytol, phytanetriol, ceramides and pseudoceramides, amino acids and bioactive peptides, protein hydrolysates, AHA acids, polyunsaturated fatty acids, plant extracts, DNA or RNA and their fragmentation products or carbohydrates, biotin, conjugated fatty acids, carnitin, vitamin E, A, C, B3, B6, B 12, oligopeptides, carnosine, biochinonen, phytofluen, phytoen, folic acid, and their corre¬ sponding derivatives.

The compounds of the general formula (I)/(Ia) are known or belong to a known class of compounds and as such can be prepared by known methods or in analogy thereto. For ex- ample, they can be prepared by reacting of a compound of the formula NHR -OR with an acylating agent providing the moiety L-R¹CO-, if required, with intermediate protection of the hydroxy group in case of R³ = hydrogen, and, if further required, alkylating the hydroxy group of the compound of formula L-R¹CONR²OH obtained, or converting the latter compound into a salt. Procedures for the synthesis of hydroxamic acids are described e.g. in J. Am. Chem. Soc. 1989, 111, 114-120 using an ester of an acid and hydroxylamine hy¬ drochloride in alcohol with a strong base; J. Med. Chem. 1967, 10, 556-564 for the synthe- sis of 0-benzylhydroxamic acids with additional hydrogenation or Monatsh. Chem. 2000, 131, 6, 549-570 and references therein using lipase-catalysed condensation of carboxylic acids with hydroxylamine or their derivatives. The present invention further concerns a method of treating or preventing wrinkles or hu¬ man dry skin or sensitive skin or any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, promotion of hair growth, protection from hair loss, thickening the epidermis, anti-acne, the inhibition of senescence of skin cells, preven- tion or treatment of photodamage, prevention or treatment of oxidative stress phenomena, prevention or treatment of cellulite, prevention and treatment of disturbances in ceramide and lipid synthesis, prevention of excess sebum production, reduction of activities of ma¬ trix metallo proteases or other proteases in the skin, treatment and prevention of inflamma¬ tory skin conditions including atopic eczema, polymorphic light eruption, psoriasis, ver- tiligo, prevention and treatment of itchy or irritated skin, which method comprises the step of topically administering to a person in need of such treatment or prevention an effective amount of a compound of the general formula (I) as defined above, optionally in combina¬ tion with a retinoid.

A further object of the present invention is a method for the prevention or treatment of pigmentation disorders and/or for providing an even skin tone, which method comprises the step of topically administering to a person in need of such prevention or treatment an effective amount of a composition according to the present invention as defined above, wherein the composition contains a retinoid.

Another object of the present invention is a method for fortifying the pigmentation which method comprises the step of topically administering to a person in need of such fortifica¬ tion an effective amount of a composition according to the present invention as defined above and topically administering a tanning active, wherein the tanning active may be ad- ministered before, after or simultaneously with the administration of the effective amount of the composition according to the present invention, and wherein any retinoid is essen¬ tially absent in such a composition.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention is a method of treating or preventing wrinkles or human dry skin or sensitive skin, of promoting hair growth, of protecting from hair loss, of thickening the epidermis, which method comprises the step of topically administering to a person in need of such treatment or prevention an effective amount of a compound of the general formula (I) as defined in claim 1, optionally in combination with a retinoid. The use of a compound of the general formula (I) as defined above for boosting the cos¬ metic effects of retinoids and/or tanning actives is also an object of the present invention.

The concept of a synergistic effect between a retinoid and a compound of formula (I)/(Ia) may be demonstrated in an in vitro test system using human primary keratinocytes. The marker in the example below is the enzyme Transglutaminase 1, which is a well-known and common differentiation marker in human epidermal cells. As a representative from the group of retinoids retinoic acid was used. From the compounds of formula (I)/(Ia) octanoic acid hydroxyamide, decanoic acid hydroxyamide, dodecanoic acid hydroxyamide and tet- radecanoic acid hydroxyamide were elected.

Culture of epidermal keratinocytes

Epidermal keratinocytes were isolated from human foreskin biopsies and cultured in keratinocyte serum free medium (KSFM, GIBCO) in a growth chamber with 37°C and 5% CO₂. At the second passage, cells were transferred to 6 well plates and allowed to reach approximately 50% surface confluence.

Expression of TGl by differentiating keratinocytes

Retinoic acid and the compounds of formula (I) were solubilized in ethanol or ethanol/ tetrahydrofuran. Retinoic acid solutions were handled under yellow light conditions only. When keratinocyte cultures had reached the appropriate confluence, the KSFM medium was supplemented with 1.3 mM calcium, in order to induce keratinocyte differentiation and thus also induce TGl expression, and treatment was started by adding either retinoic acid compound of formula (I) or both substances in combination. For every sample, me- dium and/or treatment substances were changed twice daily.

Seventy-two hours after the beginning of the treatment, cells were harvested and the RNA extracted. RNA was reverse transcribed into cDNA. Relative quantification of TGl mRNA transcript levels in control versus treatment cultures were determined using multiplexed real time PCR analysis (Table 1). Table 1 shows a Real Time PCR of Transglutaminase 1 transcription. Repression of Transglutaminase 1 by the compound of formula (I) is plotted as x-fold repression. ClO: decanoic acid hydroxyamide; C 12: dodecanoic acid hydroxyam- ide; C 14: tetradecanoic acid hydroxyamide.

Table 1: Multiplexed Real Time PCR of Transglutaminase 1

The differentiation marker of epidermal keratinocytes in the test system for the highest concentration of decanoic acid hydroxyamide was found to be about 12 fold reduced (Ta¬ ble 1). The x-fold repression for dodecanoic acid hydroxyamide is about 11 and for the tetradecanoic acid hydroxyamide still above 6 fold.

A potential synergism of the hydroxyamides in combination with retinoids was calculated with the Bϋrgi formula according to Jin Zheng-jun (Acta Pharmacol. Sin. 2004; 25(2): 146-147), namely: q=observed value/expected value. If the expected value represents the addition of compound combination, q=l would mean simple addition; q>l, synergism, q<l, antagonism and a tolerance of +/- 0.15 is accepted.

Table 2: Synergism of compounds of formula (Ia) in combination with retinoic acid. The concentration of retinoic acid was 1x10 ,-9 M in all cases.

AU the compound combinations showed values above 1.0 +/- 0.15 (Table 2). For the used differentiation marker in epidermal keratinocytes all combinations have a synergistic effect on each other.

The following Examples are illustrative but not limitative of the invention.

Examples 1 to 3

Anti-aging formulations containing the ingredients indicated below can be prepared in a manner known per se.

Example formulation number 1 2 3

Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Glyceryl Myristate 4.00 4.00 4.00

Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00

Steareth-2 2.00 2.00 2.00

Steareth-21 2.00 2.00 2.00

Isopropyl Myristate 5.00 5.00 5.00

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.00 4.00 4.00

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 2.00 2.00 2.00

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 1.00 1.00

Almond Oil 2.00 2.00 2.00

BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.80 0.80 0.80

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Water Ad. 100

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

D-Panthenol 0.30 0.30 0.30

Propylene Glycol 4.00 4.00 4.00

Polyacrylamide & C13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 0.50 0.50 0.50

Octanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50 _

Decanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50 0.50

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) 0.50 0.50

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI - - 0.10

Triethanolamine q.s. q.s. q.s. Examples 4 to 6

Example formulation number 4 5 6

Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Glyceryl Myristate 4.00 4.00 4.00

Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00

Steareth-2 2.00 2.00 2.00

Steareth-21 2.00 2.00 2.00

Isopropyl Myristate 5.00 5.00 5.00

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.00 4.00 4.00

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 2.00 2.00 2.00

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 1.00 1.00

Almond Oil 2.00 2.00 2.00

BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.80 0.80 0.80

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Water Ad. 100

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

D-Panthenol 0.30 0.30 0.30

Propylene Glycol 4.00 4.00 4.00

Polyacrylamide & C13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 0.50 0.50 0.50

Octanoic acid hydroxamide -

Decanoic acid hydroxamide -

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide - - 0.50

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) - 0.50 0.50

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10

Triethanolamine q.s. q.s. q.s. Examples 7 - 9

Facial treatment formulations containing the ingredients indicated below can be prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 7 8 9

Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Glyceryl Myristate 5.00 5.00 5.00

Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00

Cetyl Phosphate 2.00 2.00 2.00

Isopropyl Myristate 10.00 10.00 10.00

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.30 0.30 0.30

Almond Oil 2.00 2.00 2.00

BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.60 0.60 0.60

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Tromethamine 0.90 0.90 0.90

Water Ad. Ad. Ad.

100 100 100

D-Panthenol 0.20 0.20 0.20

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Propylene Glycol 4.00 4.00 4.00

Polyacrylamide & C13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 2.00 2.00 2.00

Octanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50 - -

Decanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50 0.50

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) 0.50 0.50 -

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI - - 0.10

Triethanolamine q.s. q.s. q.s. Examples 10 - 12

Formulation No. 10 11 12 Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Glyceryl Myristate 5.00 5.00 5.00

Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00

Cetyl Phosphate 2.00 2.00 2.00

Isopropyl Myristate 10.00 10.00 10.00

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.30 0.30 0.30

Almond Oil 2.00 2.00 2.00

BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.60 0.60 0.60

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Tromethamine 0.90 0.90 0.90

Water Ad. Ad. Ad.

100 100 100

D-Panthenol 0.20 0.20 0.20 Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 Propylene Glycol 4.00 4.00 4.00

Polyacrylamide & C13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 2.00 2.00 2.00 Octanoic acid hydroxamide -

Decanoic acid hydroxamide -

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide - - 0.50

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) - 0.50 0.50

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10

Triethanolamine q.s. q.s. q.s. Examples 13 - 15

Hair loss sera containing the ingredients indicated below can be prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No 13 14 15 Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Water Ad. 100 Ad. 100 Ad. 100

Ethanol 8.00 8.00 8.00

Isopropanol 4.00 4.00 4.00

Propylene Glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00

D-Panthenol 0.20 0.20 0.20

PEG- 12 Dimethicone 0.20 0.20 0.20

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4.00 4.00 4.00

Phytantriol 0.05 0.05 0.05

Vitamin E Acetate 0.10 0.10 0.10

Octanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50 .

Decanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50 0.50

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) 0.50 0.50

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI - - 0.10

NaOH 10% q.s. q.s. q.s.

Examples 16 - 18

Formulation No 1 166 1 177 1 188

Ingredients % % % % % %

( (ww//ww)) ( (ww//ww)) ( (ww//ww) Water A Add.. 110000 A Add.. 110000 A Add.. K 100

Ethanol 8 8..0000 8 8..0000 8 8..0000

Isopropanol 4 4..0000 4 4..0000 4 4..0000

Propylene Glycol 5 5..0000 5 5..0000 5 5..0000

D-Panthenol 0 0..2200 0 0..2200 0 0..2200

PEG-12 Dimethicone 0 0..2200 0 0..2200 0 0..2200

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 4 4..0000 4 4..0000 4 4..0000

Phytantriol 0 0..0055 0 0..0055 0 0..0055

Vitamin E Acetate 0 0..1100 0 0..1100 0 0..1100

Octanoic acid hydroxamide - -

Decanoic acid hydroxamide - -

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50 - -

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50 -

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) 0.50 0.50

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10 - -

NaOH 10% q.s. q.s. q.s.

Examples 19 - 21

Skin fortifier lotions containing the ingredients indicated below can be prepared in a man¬ ner known per se

Formulation No. 19 20 21

Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Water Ad. Ad. Ad.

100 100 100

D- Panthenol 0.05 0.05 0.05

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.20 0.20 0.20

Propylene Glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00

Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.50 0.50 0.50

Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.40 0.40 0.40

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Squalane 2.00 2.00 2.00

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.80 0.80 0.80

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 4.00 4.00 4.00

BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10 0.10 0.10

Cyclomethicone 3.00 3.00 3.00

Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00

Octanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50 - -

Decanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50 0.50

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) 0.50 0.50 -

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI - - 0.10

Sodium Hydroxide 10% q.s. q.s. q.s. Examples 22 - 24

Formulation No. 22 23 24

Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Water Ad. Ad. Ad.

100 100 100

D- Panthenol 0.05 0.05 0.05

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.20 0.20 0.20

Propylene Glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00

Acrylates/ClO-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.50 0.50 0.50

Sodium Hydroxide 30% 0.40 0.40 0.40

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Squalane 2.00 2.00 2.00

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.80 0.80 0.80

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 4.00 4.00 4.00

BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10 0.10 0.10

Cyclomethicone 3.00 3.00 3.00

Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00

Octanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Decanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50 - -

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50 -

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide - - 0.50

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) - 0.50 0.50

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10 - -

Sodium Hydroxide 10% q.s. q.s. q.s. Examples 25 - 27

Formulations to treat age spots containing the ingredients indicated below can be prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 25 26 27

Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Water Ad. Ad. Ad.

100 100 100.

Polyquaternium- 10 0.10 0.10 0.10

D- Panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 1.00 1.00 1.00

Niacinamid 0.50 0.50 0.50

Propylene Glycol 4.00 4.00 4.00

Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00

PEG- 12 Dimethicone 0.20 0.20 0.20

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Polysorbate 20 5.00 5.00 5.00

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.80 0.80 0.80

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Octanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50 - -

Decanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50 0.50

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) 0.50 0.50 -

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI - - 0.10

Sodium Hydroxide 10% q.s. q.s. q.s. Examples 28 - 30

Formulation No. 28 29 30

Ineredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Water Ad. Ad. Ad.

100. 100 100.

Polyquaternium- 10 0.10 0.10 0.10

D- Panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 1.00 1.00 1.00

Niacinamid 0.50 0.50 0.50

Propylene Glycol 4.00 4.00 4.00

Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00

PEG-12 Dimethicone 0.20 0.20 0.20

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Polysorbate 20 5.00 5.00 5.00

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.80 0.80 0.80

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Octanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Decanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50 - -

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50 -

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide - - 0.50

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) - 0.50 0.50

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10 - -

Sodium Hydroxide 10% q.s. q.s. q.s. Examples 31 - 33

Anti-cellulite formulations containing the ingredients indicated below can be prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 31 32 33

Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Water Ad. Ad. Ad.

100 100 100

Caffeine 1.00 1.00 1.00

D-Panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50

Glycerin 4.00 4.00 4.00

Butylene Glycol 2.00 2.00 2.00

Acrylates/ClO-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.20 0.20 0.20

Disodium EDETA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside 5.00 5.00 5.00

Squalane 2.00 2.00 2.00

Mineral Oil 4.00 4.00 4.00

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.80 0.80 0.80

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Isononyl Isononanoate 4.00 4.00 4.00

BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05

Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00

Dimethicone 0.50 0.50 0.50

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10 0.10 0.10

Octanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50

Decanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50 0.50

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) 0.50 0.50

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI - - 0.10

Triethanolamine q.s. q.s. q.s. Examples 34 - 36

Formulation No. 34 35 36

Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Water Ad. Ad. Ad.

100 100 100

Caffeine 1.00 1.00 1.00

D-Panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50

Glycerin 4.00 4.00 4.00

Butylene Glycol 2.00 2.00 2.00

Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.20 0.20 0.20

Disodium EDETA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside 5.00 5.00 5.00

Squalane 2.00 2.00 2.00

Mineral Oil 4.00 4.00 4.00

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.80 0.80 0.80

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Isononyl Isononanoate 4.00 4.00 4.00

BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05

Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00

Dimethicone 0.50 0.50 0.50

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10 0.10 0.10

Octanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Decanoic acid hydroxamide - - -

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50 - -

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50 -

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide - - 0.50

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) - 0.50 0.50

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10 - -

Triethanolamine q.s. q.s. q.s. Examples 37 - 39

Skin repair formulations containing the ingredients indicated below can be prepared in a manner known per se

Formulation No. 37 38 39

Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.00 4.00 4.00

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 2.00 2.00 2.00

Beeswax 2.00 2.00 2.00

Zinc Stearate 2.00 2.00 2.00

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00 3.00 3.00

Cetearyl Isononanoate 8.00 8.00 8.00

Dicaprylyl Ether 5.00 5.00 5.00

BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.60 0.60 0.60

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Water Ad. Ad. Ad.

100 100 100

D-Panthenol 0.20 0.20 0.20

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Propylene Glycol 4.00 4.00 4.00

Octanoic acid hvdroxamide 0.55

Decanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50 0.50

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide -

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) 0.50 0.50

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI - - 0.10 Examples 40 - 42

Formulation No. 40 41 42 Ingredients % % %

(w/w) (w/w) (w/w)

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.00 4.00 4.00

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 2.00 2.00 2.00

Beeswax 2.00 2.00 2.00

Zinc Stearate 2.00 2.00 2.00

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00 3.00 3.00

Cetearyl Isononanoate 8.00 8.00 8.00

Dicaprylyl Ether 5.00 5.00 5.00

BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05

Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 0.60 0.60 0.60

Propylparaben & Butylparaben & Isopropylparaben

Water Ad. Ad. Ad.

100 100 100

D-Panthenol 0.20 0.20 0.20

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10

Propylene Glycol 4.00 4.00 4.00

Octanoic acid hydroxamide -

Decanoic acid hydroxamide -

Dodecanoic acid hydroxamide 0.50

Tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide - 0.50

Hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide - - 0.50

Retinol 15D (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride & Retinol) - 0.50 0.50

Retinol Acetate 2.8 MI 0.10 Example 43: Synthesis of 8-Phenyl-octanoic acid hvdroxyamide

A mixture of dichloromethane (DCM) (15 mL) and pyridine (15 mL) was cooled to 0°C and O-benzyl-hydroxylamine hydrochloride (0.939 g, 5.88 mmol, 1.2 equivalents) was added. Then 8-phenyl-octanoyl chloride (1.17 g, 4.90 mmol, 1.0 equivalents) in DCM (5 mL) was added over 10 minutes. The reaction mixture was allowed to warm to room temperature and stirred over weekend. The solvents were removed under reduced pressure and the residue was partitioned between water (40 mL) and ethyl acetate (70 mL). The lay¬ ers were separated and the aqueous layer was extracted twice with ethyl acetate (40 mL). The organic layers were combined and washed three times with an aqueous solution of 5% hydrochloric acid and once with brine 30 mL). The organic layer was dried over Na₂SO₄, filtrated and the solvent removed under reduced pressure. The residue was dried under high vacuum at room temperature to obtain 1.46 g (92 %) of the product as a white solid. ¹H NMR (CDC13) δ = 1.30-1.32 (m, 6H), 1.56-1.60 (t, 4H), 2.00-2.34 (m, 2H), 2.55-2.60 (t, 2H), 4.88 (s, IH), 7.13-7.35 (m, 10H), 8.42 (s, IH). ¹³C NMR (CDC13) δ = 29.1, 29.2, 31.4, 35.9, 125.6, 128.3, 128.4, 128.6, 129.2, 142.8, 171.1

A solution of 8-phenyl-octanoic acid benzyloxy-amide (1.46 g, 4.49 mmol, 1.0 equiva¬ lents) in methanol (50 mL) was degassed. Pd/SiC>₂ 5% (152 mg) was added. The reaction mixture stirred for 5 days under hydrogen atmosphere at room temperature. The catalyst and the solvent were removed and the residue was dried under high vacuum at room tem¬ perature to yield 1.00 g (95 %) of the product as an off white solid. ¹H NMR (CDC13) δ = 1.29 (s, 6H), 1.56-1.60 (t, 4H), 2.07-2.12 (t, 2H), 2.54-2.60 (t, 2H), 7.13-7.17 (m, 3H), 7.23-7.28 (m, 2H), 9.06 (s, IH). ¹³C NMR (CDC13) δ = 25.4, 29.0, 29.1, 31.4, 33.0, 35.9, 125.6, 128.3, 128.4, 142.7, 172.0. MS (ESI) m/z = 236.2 (100) [M+H⁺]. DC (silica gel/hexane-EE 1/1): R_f 0.33. Example 44: Synthesis of decanoic acid hydroxy-methyl-amide

A suspension of N-methyl-hydroxylamine hydrochloride (3.60 g, 43.1 mmol, 2.0 equiva¬ lents) in diethyl ether (250 mL) was cooled to 0°C. Then pyridine (5 mL) and sodium car¬ bonate anhydrous (9.14 g, 86.21 mmol, 4.0 equivalents) were added and the white suspen¬ sion stirred for 15 minutes. Decanoyl chloride (9.54 g, 21.6 mmol, 1.0 equivalents) in di¬ ethyl ether (20 mL) was slowly added over 10 minutes. The temperature was held in the range of -5°C to +5°C. The reaction mixture was stirred over night and allowed to warm up to room temperature. Water (200 mL) was added and the layers were separated. The aqueous layer was extracted twice with ethyl acetate (200 mL). The organic layers were combined and extracted once with an aqueous solution of 1 M citric acid (150 mL) and with brine (150 mL). The organic layer was dried over Na₂SO₄, filtrated and the solvent removed under reduced pressure. The residue was dried under high vacuum at room tem¬ perature to give 3.77 g (87 %) of a white solid. ¹H NMR (CDCl₃) δ = 0.86-0.90 (t, 3H), 1.27 (s, 12H), 1.60-1.62 (d, 2H), 2.29-2.47 (m, 2H), 3.23-3.36 (m, 2H), 9.17 (s, IH). ¹³C NMR (CDCl₃) δ = 14.0, 22.6, 24.9, 29.1, 29.2, 29.4, 29.4, 31.8, 32.2, 34.2, 36.1, 167.9, 175.0, 178.3. MS (ESI) m/z = 202.2 (100) [M+H⁺].

Example 45: Synthesis of decanoic acid methoxy-amide

A mixture of DCM (50 mL) and pyridine (50 mL) was cooled to +5°C and O- methylhydroxylamine hydrochloride (4.34 g, 52 mmol, 1.04 equivalents) was added and the white suspension stirred for 15 minutes. Then Decanoyl chloride (9.54 g, 50 mmol, 1.0 equivalents) in DCM (15 mL) was slowly added over 10 minutes. The temperature was held in the range of -5°C to +5°C. The reaction mixture stirred over night and allowed to warm up to room temperature. Water (150 mL) and ethyl acetate (250 mL) were added. The layers were separated and the aqueous layer was extracted twice with ethyl acetate (150 mL). The organic layers were combined and extracted three times with an aqueous solution of 1 M Citric acid (100 mL) and once with brine (100 mL). The organic layer was dried over Na₂SO₄, filtrated and the solvent removed under reduced pressure. The residue was dried under high vacuum at room temperature to yield 9.55 g (98 %) of the product as a white solid. ¹H NMR (CDCl₃) δ = 0.85-0.90 (t, 3H), 1.26 (s, 12H), 1.59-1.66 (q, 2H), 2.11-2.16 (t, 2H), 3.74 (s, 3H), 10.12 (s, IH). ¹³C NMR (CDCl₃) δ = 14.0, 22.6, 25.5, 29.2, 29.3, 29.4, 31.8, 33.1, 63.9, 171.3. MS (ESI) m/z = 202.2 (100) [MH-H⁺].

Example 46: Synthesis of 6-hvdroxy-hexanoic acid hvdroxyamide

A mixture of 6-caprolactone monomer (22.82 g, 200 mmol, 1.0 equivalents) and hydroxyl- amine (13.21 g, 200 mmol, 1.0 equivalents, 50% in water) was stirred for 16 hour at room temperature. The clear solution turned to a white suspension. To be stirrable acetonitrile (50 mL) was added. The suspension was stirred at room temperature for 14 days. The sol¬ vents were removed under reduced pressure and the residue was dried under high vacuum at 50 ⁰C for 12 hours. 26.81 g (91 %) of a white solid was obtained. The crude product was dissolved in ethyl acetate (150 mL) and ethanol (40 mL). 22.0 g (75 %) of a white solid were obtained. ¹H NMR (D₂O) δ = 1.23-1.1.31 (m, 2H), 1.43-1.59 (m, 4H), 2.08-2.13 (t, 2H), 3.49-3.54 (t, 2H). ¹³C NMR (D₂O) δ = 24.5, 24.7, 30.9, 32.3, 61.6, 173.4. MS (ESI) m/z = 148.2 (100) [MH-H⁺], 130.2 (18) [M-I-H⁺-H₂O], 115.1 (50) [M- NH₂OHH-H⁺].

Claims

What is claimed is :

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a compound of the general formula

(D

wherein

L is hydrogen, branched alkyl, aryl, heteroaryl, cycloalkyl, heterocycloalkyl, hy- droxyl, OR, HO-(CH₂-CH₂-O)_n, HO-(CH₂-O)_n, HO-(CH₂-CH₂-CH₂-O)_n, HO- (CH₂-CH(CHs)-O)_n, HO-(CH(CH₃)-CH₂-O)_n, NR⁴R⁵, C(O)NR⁶R⁷, with R being C_1-4-alkyl or C_2-1s-alkanoyl; n being an integer from 1 to 8; R⁴, R⁵, R⁶ and R⁷ being independently from each other hydrogen or Ci-^-alkyl;

2. The composition as in claim 1, wherein L is hydrogen, R¹ is non-substituted alkylene, non-substituted alkenylene or non-substituted alkinylene; R² is hydrogen or alkyl; and R³ hydrogen, alkyl, or a cosmetically acceptable cation.

3. The composition as in claim 1 or 2 comprising additionally a retinoid.

4. The composition as in any of claims 1 to 3 wherein R¹ is straight chain alkylene, al¬ kenylene or alkinylene having up to 15 carbon atoms.

5. The composition as in claim 4 wherein R¹ is straight chain alkylene having 7 to 13 car¬ bon atoms.

6. The composition as in any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein R² is hydrogen or alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

7. The composition as in any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein R² is hydrogen.

8. The composition as in any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein R³ is hydrogen, alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation.

9. The composition as in any one of claims 1 to 8 wherein R³ is hydrogen.

10. The composition as in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound of the formula (I) is selected from the group consisting of octanoic acid hydroxamide, decanoic acid hydroxamide, dodecanoic acid hydroxamide, tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide, hexa- decanoic acid hydroxamide, N-methoxy-dodecanamide, N-hydroxy-N-methyl-dodecan- amide, N-ethyl-N-hydroxy-octanamide, N-hydroxy-2-octenamide, N-hydroxy-2-dodecen- amide, and N-hydroxy-2-octinamide, preferably wherein the compound of the formula (I) is selected from the group consisting of octanoic acid hydroxamide, decanoic acid hydrox¬ amide, dodecanoic acid hydroxamide, tetradecanoic acid hydroxamide and hexadecanoic acid hydroxamide.

11. The composition as in any one of claims 3 to 10 wherein the retinoid is retinoic acid or a derivative thereof.

12. The composition as in any one of claims 3 to 10 wherein the retinoid is retinyl acetate, phenylbutyrate, propionate, octanoate, laurate, palmitate, oleate, linoleate; retinyl alkyl carbonate; retinoxytrimethylsilane; (all trans)-retinal or its acetals; or methoxy PEG-12 retinamide.

13. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of the com- pound of the general formula (I) is from about 0.0001 to about 50 % by weight of the total composition.

14. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 13, wherein the amount of the com¬ pound of the general formula (I) is from about 0.001 to about 20 % by weight of the total composition.

15. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 14, wherein the amount of the com¬ pound of the general formula (I) is from about 0.01 to about 1 % by weight of the total composition.

16. The composition according to any of claims 3 to 15, wherein the amount of the retinoid or derivative thereof is from about 0.001 to about 50 % by weight of the total composition.

17. The composition according to any of claims 3 to 16 wherein the amount of the retinoid or derivative thereof is from about 0.001 to about 20 % by weight of the total composition.

18. The composition according to any of claims 3 to 17, wherein the amount of the retinoid or derivative thereof is from about 0.01 to about 1 % by weight of the total composition.

19. The composition according to any of claims 3 to 12, wherein the ratio of the compound of the general formula (I) to the retinoid or derivative thereof is from about 1000 : 1 to about 1 : 1000 by weight.

20. The composition according to any of claims 3 to 12, wherein the ratio of the compound of the general formula (I) to the retinoid or derivative thereof is from about 100 : 1 to about 1 : 100 by weight.

21. The composition according to any of claims 3 to 12, wherein the ratio of the compound of the general formula (I) to the retinoid or derivative thereof is from about 30 : 1 to about 1 : 30 by weight.

22. The composition according to any of claims 1 and 3 to 21, wherein L is hydrogen, phenyl, or hydroxyl.

23. The composition according to claim 22, wherein the compound of the formula (I) is selected from the group consisting of 8-phenyl-octanoic acid hydroxamide, decanoic acid hydroxy-methyl-amide, decanoic acid methoxy-amide and 6-hydroxy-hexanoic acid hy- droxyamide.

24. A composition as in any one of claims 1 to 23, which is for the treatment or prevention of wrinkles or dry skin or sensitive skin or any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, promotion of hair growth, protection from hair loss, a thickening of the epidermis, anti-acne, the inhibition of senescence of skin cells, prevention or treatment of photodamage, prevention or treatment of oxidative stress phenomena, prevention or treatment of cellulite, prevention and treatment of disturbances in ceramide and lipid synthesis, prevention of excess sebum production, reduction of ac¬ tivities of matrix metallo proteases or other proteases in the skin, treatment and prevention of inflammatory skin conditions including atopic eczema, polymorphic light eruption, pso¬ riasis, vertiligo, prevention and treatment of itchy or irritated skin.

25. A composition as in any one of claims 3 to 23 which is for the prevention or treatment of pigmentation disorders and/or for providing an even skin tone.

26. A composition as in claim 1 or 2, which is for fortifying the pigmentation by enhancing the effect of a tanning active.

27. A composition as in claim 24, which is for the treatment or prevention of wrinkles or dry skin or sensitive skin, for the promotion of hair growth, for the protection from hair loss, and for thickening the epidermis.

28. A method of treating or preventing wrinkles or human dry skin or sensitive skin or any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, promotion of hair growth, protection from hair loss, a thickening of the epidermis, anti-acne, the inhibition of senescence of skin cells, prevention or treatment of photodam¬ age, prevention or treatment of oxidative stress phenomena, prevention or treatment of cellulite, prevention and treatment of disturbances in ceramide and lipid synthesis, preven¬ tion of excess sebum production, reduction of activities of matrix metallo proteases or other proteases in the skin, treatment and prevention of inflammatory skin conditions in¬ cluding atopic eczema, polymorphic light eruption, psoriasis, vertiligo, prevention and treatment of itchy or irritated skin, which method comprises the step of topically adminis- tering to a person in need of such treatment or prevention an effective amount of a com¬ pound of the general formula (I) as defined in claim 1, optionally in combination with a retinoid.

29. A method for the prevention or treatment of pigmentation disorders and/or for provid¬ ing an even skin tone, which method comprises the step of topically administering to a person in need of such prevention or treatment an effective amount of a composition as in any one of claims 3 to 23.

30. A method for fortifying the pigmentation which method comprises the step of topically administering to a person in need of such fortification an effective amount of a composi¬ tion as in claim 1 or 2 and topically administering a tanning active, wherein the tanning active may be administered before, after or simultaneously with the administration of the effective amount of the composition as in claim 1 or 2.

31. A method of treating or preventing wrinkles or human dry skin or sensitive skin, of promoting hair growth, of protecting from hair loss, of thickening the epidermis, as in claim 28, which method comprises the step of topically administering to a person in need of such treatment or prevention an effective amount of a compound of the general formula (I) as defined in claim 1, optionally in combination with a retinoid.

32. Decanoic acid methoxy-amide.

33. Use of a compound of the general formula (I) as in claim 1 for boosting the cosmetic effects of retinoids and/or tanning actives.