WO2005067882A1

WO2005067882A1 - Visualization of sun protective agents on skin

Info

Publication number: WO2005067882A1
Application number: PCT/EP2004/053168
Authority: WO
Inventors: Tobias Mann; Volker Wendel; Eckhard Klette
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2004-01-15
Filing date: 2004-11-30
Publication date: 2005-07-28
Also published as: DE102004002611A1

Abstract

Disclosed are cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing a moiety of stilbene and/or the derivatives thereof.

Description

Description Visualization of sunscreens on the skin

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological (light protection) formulations containing stilbene and / or its derivatives and the use of stilbene and / or its derivatives to make cosmetic and dermatological formulations visible, in particular cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin , especially with the help of light activation.

In addition to the positive effects of sunlight, such as general well-being, the formation of vitamin D3 and acne treatment, there are also negative effects that must be counteracted.

If you expose the skin to the sun or an artificial radiation source for too long, after a latency period of 2 to 3 hours a reddening of the skin, the erythema solare, develops against the unexposed skin. With the resulting sunburn, one differentiates between

1st degree: erythema (reddening, feeling of warmth) subsides after 2 to 3 days and disappears with increasing pigmentation,

^■ 2nd degree: blisters form on the skin, blisters with burning and itching, the epidermis is pushed off flatly

^■ 3rd degree: cell damage deep cell damage occurs, the body reacts with fever, the epidermis is rejected over a large area. The 2nd and 3rd degrees are also called solar dermatitis.

The formation of the erythema depends on the wavelength. The erythema range of the UV-B is between 280 nm and 320 nm.

About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm. While the UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. time of year and time of day) or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day, regardless of the time of year, time of day or geographical factors. At the same time, the majority of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer.

It has long been erroneously assumed that long-wave UV-A radiation has only a negligible biological effect and that UV-B rays are accordingly responsible for most of the light damage to human skin. In the meantime, however, numerous studies have shown that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin. The damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be intensified by UV-A radiation.

The sunburn or the light erythema are the acute manifestations of the effect of light. In addition, however, particularly strongly exposed areas of the skin (face, neck, hands) show an aging (radiation-induced) change in the skin due to the high total dose associated with this. The most noticeable chronic light damage to the skin is actinic or senile elastosis. Macroscopically, it manifests itself in thickening and coarsening of the skin, wrinkling, loss of elasticity, the appearance of yellowish shimmering deposits and irregular pigment accumulations. The epidermis becomes thin in places and shows warty growths, the dermis loses its elasticity and tension, the water retention capacity is reduced. To the Chronic light damage that occurs as a late consequence also includes malignant melanoma and, in the last stage, actinic keratosis.

Since the contributions of the various wavelength ranges of UV light have not yet been completely clarified, preventive protection is necessary for both the UV-A and the UV-B range, for example by applying light protection filter substances in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation to the skin, vital. Cosmetic preparations should fundamentally strongly absorb the critical UV-A rays, not only to protect sensitive skin when sunbathing, but also for general protection up to use in a normal skin cream, since skin aging and the risk of skin cancer are significantly different from this part of the UV -Light be influenced.

The benefit of a sunscreen preparation is to extend the amount of time that a consumer can stay in the sun without causing light damage. The filter effect should be adapted in particular for the UV-B range to the individual sensitivity of the consumer and the intensity of solar radiation.

The weakening of the intensity of the incident light and thus the effectiveness of a sun protection formulation depend, among other things, on the layer thickness of the applied filter substance. With increasing layer thickness, the effectiveness of a sunscreen also increases. Particularly in the case of low-viscosity preparations such as oils or alcoholic solutions, it is therefore necessary to also increase the viscosity of the formulation and thus the achievable layer thickness on the skin from a certain limit concentration of filter substance. In addition, it is only possible to a limited extent to increase the sun protection factor by increasing the concentration of the UV filter substance.

The layer thickness achieved with a special base is a very important criterion in light protection. In general, the sun protection factor increases in the order of oil <alcoholic solution <liquid emulsion <cream <paste. Another important parameter in this context is the adhesiveness or water resistance of the formulations on the skin. Most sunscreens are used near the water or during sports activities (sweating). A waterproof solar Protective agents can protect the user from sunburn not only during bathing but also after bathing, provided it is not washed off too much.

Of course, the prior art knows a variety of different light protection formulations with the most diverse light protection factors and application properties. The disadvantage of these customary sunscreens is that after applying the cream, the user can neither see whether he has covered all parts of the body exposed to the radiation with a protective layer, nor whether the skin has been adequately covered. H. whether the layer thickness was chosen sufficiently. Another disadvantage is that the user cannot keep track of how the layer thickness of the sunscreen changes, for example due to contact with water or mechanical stresses such as drying, etc., and accordingly when a new creaming has become necessary.

In the worst case, this can lead to a reduced protective effect of the products.

A high level of protection of the preparations is of particular importance, especially for children's and baby products, since children are particularly susceptible to sunburn due to the low light swell (thickening of the horny layer) and the reduced level of self-protection and also often play for hours on or in the water. In addition, the more sunburns an adult has, the higher the risk of skin cancer for an adult.

At the same time, however, it is often problematic to apply sufficient cream to children, since they are usually very restless or impatient and sunscreen preparations with a high sunscreen factor are also difficult to distribute because of their generally higher viscosity. Furthermore, it is generally difficult for parents to tell when the sunscreen has been rubbed off or washed off and when the children have to be re-applied.

The object of the present invention was accordingly to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art and to find ways to visualize cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations on the skin and thus to facilitate the application of a uniform film to the skin. DE-100 34 332-A1 describes the use of effect pigments with an average particle size of 15 μm to 200 μm for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological formulations on the skin. DE-100 35 512-A1 also describes the use of dyes to make cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations visible on the skin. However, this prior art could not point the way to the present invention.

The disadvantage of these preparations is that the coloring of the skin by means of an effect pigment or a dye is generally very intense and also permanent, which is often perceived by the customer as annoying. In addition, the color of such products often differs greatly from the usual skin color, which gives the user an unnatural appearance.

As an attempt to solve this problem, both EP-94 05 B1 and EP 1 136 059-A2 describe colored sun protection emulsions which are distinguished by the fact that the color essentially fades when the sun protection emulsion dries after it has been distributed on the skin and / or rubbed into the skin. However, the effect achieved here also falls short of the hoped-for effect.

Accordingly, the prior art could not point the way to the present invention.

After all, it was surprising and in no way predictable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing stilbene and / or its derivatives would remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

The present invention furthermore relates to the use of stilbene and / or its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin. With the aid of the present invention, it is possible in an astonishingly simple manner to control the amount of sunscreen applied without the skin becoming disruptively conspicuous and / or permanent. Furthermore, based on the visual impression that the formulations leave on the skin, both for the user himself and for third parties, such as. B. parents, easily recognizable which areas of the skin are already covered with a protective layer and where (or again) creaming is required. The cosmetic is usually visualized directly with the eye, for example by the user viewing the area of skin in question using a contrast enhancer.

The substances according to the invention absorb visible and / or UV light and then emit light whose wavelength is longer than that of the absorbed light. So they show an effective fluorescence in a longer-wave range. The difference between incident and emitted light can be, for example, 2 to 100 nm.

As a contrast enhancer for the purposes of the present invention, for. B. thin colored plastic films or colored glasses are used, whereby the color of the contrast enhancer is selected according to the color of the fluorescence: Since blue foils are essentially transparent to blue radiation, they are suitable as contrast enhancers for the visualization of substances that emit blue light etc ,

According to the invention, those formulations which have a continuous decrease in fluorescence after application are particularly advantageous, for example because the fluorescent substances are photolabile and are decomposed into non-fluorescent substances by the influence of radiation.

Stilben is characterized by the following structural formula:

Derivatives of this compound which are particularly advantageous according to the invention are: 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) biphenyl disodium salt available under the trade name Tinopal CBS-X from CIBA

■ 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) biphenyl disodium salt available under the trade name Uvitex NFW Liquid as an active component of this liquid mixture from CIBA

The substances according to the invention can be present either individually or in a mixture. The total amount of the substances according to the invention is advantageously chosen in each case from the range from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 5% by weight on the total weight of the preparations.

It is very particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the substances according to the invention are in encapsulated form. Permanent encapsulations are advantageous, i. H. Capsules from which the substances according to the invention are not released into the cosmetic preparation or the skin. It goes without saying that the encapsulation for light must be continuous so that both the absorbed and the emitted radiation can penetrate through the capsule.

An advantageous encapsulation consists of (chemically inert) plastics.

Encapsulations which are obtainable by sol-gel microtechnology are also advantageous. Here, the substances according to the invention are enclosed in an inert silica membrane, ultimately encapsulated in glass beads. Encapsulated substances according to the invention can also be used advantageously in the form of aqueous dispersions for the purposes of the present invention.

Encapsulated substances according to the invention are particularly suitable for the production of particularly sensitive (sensitive) products. In addition, it is self- understandably advantageous to use potentially skin-irritating substances according to the invention in encapsulated form.

It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use one or more substances at the same time together with stilbene or one or more of its derivatives, which provide for an extension of the light path and / or with which additional scattering and / or reflection centers are introduced into the formulation which Support the effects of stilbene and / or its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin. Cosmetic formulations containing TiO ₂ and / or other pigments can be excited particularly easily by light. This means that significantly lower concentrations of flavin and its derivatives are sufficient to achieve the desired effect. These substances from the group of reflective pigments, such as, for. B. TiO ₂ and the like.

For the purposes of the present invention, the preparations can preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases, one or more water phases and, for example, in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions , Such formulations may preferably also be microemulsions, sticks, foams (so-called mousse), solid emulsions (i.e. emulsions which are stabilized by solids, e.g. Pickering emulsions), sprayable emulsions or hydrodispersions. Furthermore, the preparations can advantageously also be oil-free and / or aqueous / alcoholic solutions. It is preferred according to the invention if the formulations are waterproof.

(Macroscopic) two-phase or multi-phase systems are also advantageous according to the invention. “Two or more phases” in the sense of the present invention means that two or more phases are layered separately one above the other. It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention if at least one of the macroscopically visible phases has a (W / O-, O W (micro) emulsion. In this (macroscopic) view, the emulsion is perceived as one phase, although it is of course known to the person skilled in the art that emulsions per se are formed from two or more phases homogenized with one another. The "emulsion phase" is long-term stable, so that it does not over a long period (months, years) segregation or phase separation within the emulsion.

The macroscopically visible phases or layers can advantageously be emulsified for a short time - for example by shaking - to form a homogeneous emulsion which, however, is not stable over the long term, but rather separates again into two or more layers layered over one another over a period of minutes, hours or days , For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous if at least one of the macroscopically visible phases is a microemulsion and at least one other of the macroscopically visible phases is an oil phase.

Spray-sensitive emulsions, especially microemulsions

Sprayable O / Yv emulsions, in particular O / W ^ Vi ^ roe emulsions, are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.

The potty diameters of the usual "simple", i.e. non-emulsified emulsions are in the range from approx. 1 μm to approx. 50 μm. Such acro-optic housings ¹ 'si, without whom coloring additives. IlchigwelE-colored and opaque finer .j ^ Akroemuisionsr öptchenentiroughrπesset i 0.5 µm pis ca, 1 µm Hegen, are blue-white colored and opaque, again without coloring additives. Such “MakroemulsY netV” have a high viscosity for g wö nli

The potato eater

In the context of the present invention, however, microorganisms are in the range from about 50 to about 500 nm. Such rv microemulsions are b: bau: colored before translucent and mostly low viscosity. The viscosity of many microemulsions from OΛYΪvp is ι- attainable with that of water.

The advantage of liqueur ions is that active substances can be present in a much finer disperse in the disperse phase than in the disperse phase of _{! (} Ykroenιu! Sionon \ A further advantage is that, owing to their low viscosity, they can be sprayed better Used cosmetics, corresponding products are characterized by high cosmetic elegance. O / W microemulsions which are obtainable with the aid of so-called phase inversion temperature technology and which contain at least one emulsifier (emulsifier A), which is selected from the group of emulsifiers with the following properties, are particularly advantageous according to the invention: • Their lipophilicity depends on the temperature in such a way that the lipophilicity increases by increasing the temperature and the lipophilicity of the emulsifier decreases by lowering the temperature. Advantageous emulsifiers A are e.g. B. polyethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-150 laurath, PEG-8 distearate and the like) and / or polyethoxylated fatty alcohols (cetearath-12, cetearath-20, isoceteth-20, beheneth-20 , Laureth-9 etc.) and / or alkyl polyglycosides (cetearyl glycosides, stearyl glycosides, palmityl glycosides etc.).

If the phase inversion is initiated essentially by varying the temperature, O / W emulsions, in particular O / W microemulsions, are available, the size of the oil droplets being essentially determined by the concentration of the emulsifier (s) used, such that a higher one Emulsifier concentration causes smaller droplets and lower emulsifier concentration leads to larger droplets. The droplet sizes are usually between 20 and 500 nm.

In the sense of the present invention, it may be advantageous to use further W / O and / or O / W emulsifiers that do not fall under the definition of emulsifier A, for example in order to increase the water resistance of the preparations according to the present invention. Here z. B. alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (in particular cetyl dimethicone copolyol, lauryl methicone copolyol), W / O emulsifiers (such as sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate, glycerol stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl isostearate 3, poly -Oleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, PEG-7-hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, acrylate / Cι _0- 3o-alkyl acrylate cross-polymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, poly-glyceryl-3 -Diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxy-stearate) and / or fatty acid esters of sulfuric or phosphoric acid 4-phosphate (Cetylphosphate) , Trioleth-8-phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate etc.) can be used. Further advantageous sprayable O / W emulsions for the purposes of the present invention are low-viscosity cosmetic or dermatological hydrodispersions which contain at least one oil phase and at least one water phase, the preparation being stabilized by at least one gel former and not necessarily having to contain emulsifiers, but one or can contain several emulsifiers.

Advantageous gel formers for such preparations are, for example, copolymers of CIO- ₃ o-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". The Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon) are particularly advantageous.

Carbopole are also advantageous gel formers for such preparations. Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially also acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Advantageous carbopoles are, for example, types 907, 910, 934, 940, 941, 951, 954, 980, 981, 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. Likewise ETD types 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10. Further advantageous gel formers for such Preparations are xanthan gum, cellulose derivatives and locust bean gum.

Possible (optional) emulsifiers that can be used are ethoxylated fatty alcohols or ethoxylated fatty acids (in particular PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-20) and / or other nonionic surface-active substances.

Furthermore, the very low viscosity to sprayable emulsions can also be W / O or water-in-silicone oil (W / S) emulsions. W / O or W / S emulsions are particularly advantageous

• contain at least one silicone emulsifier (W / S) with an HLB value <8 and / or at least one W / O emulsifier with an HLB value <7 and • contain at least one O / W emulsifier with an HLB value> 10 ,

Such preparations also contain at least 20% by weight of lipids, the lipid phase advantageously also containing silicone oils or even consisting entirely of such oils. The silicone emulsifier (s) can advantageously be selected from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (eg dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847 , ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183 are sold, cetyl dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 90], cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 97 ], Laurylmethiconcopolyol [Dow Corning Ltd./Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid], Octyl Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucosid [Company Wacker].

The W / O emulsifier (s) with an HLB value <7 can advantageously be selected from the following group: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl alcoholate, lanolin, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl 3-oleate, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, methyl glucose dioleate Methyl glucose dioleate in a mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / Cιo _-3 o-alkyl acrylate cross-polymer, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxy stearate, polyglyceryl Diisostearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxy-stearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

The O / W emulsifier (s) with an HLB value> 10 can advantageously be selected from the following group: glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40 - Castor oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-9 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 stearate -40- stearate, PEG-100 stearate, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate-20, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-65, polysorbate-100, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth- 3, isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetyl stearyl alcohol in a mixture with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl 2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, methyl-glucose-stearate quistearate, 10, PEG-20 stearate, Steareth-21, Steareth-20, Isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / Dode cylglycol copolymer, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, PEG-20-methylglucose sesquistearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate, sorbitan sesquioleate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4 Phosphate, polyglyceryl-methyl glucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth-10, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, ceteth-10, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetyl stearyl-stearyl alcohol, petyl palate with pet 40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

Aqueous-alcoholic solutions are also advantageous. They can contain from 0% by weight to 90% by weight of ethanol. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous alcoholic solutions can advantageously also contain solubilizers, such as. B. PEG-40 or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil ..

The preparations according to the present invention can advantageously also as cosmetic or dermatological impregnation solutions, with soft, in particular water-insoluble substrates - such as. El woven or non-woven cloths • - are moistened. Such impregnation solutions are preferably low-viscosity, in particular sprayable (such as, for example, PIT emulsions, hydrodispersions, W / O emulsions, oils, aqueous solutions, etc.) and preferably have a viscosity of less than 2000 rnPa-s, in particular less than 1,500 mPa-s (measuring device: Haake Viscotester VT-02 at 25 ° C). With their help, for example, cosmetic sun protection wipes, wipes and the like are available, which represent the combination of a soft, water-insoluble material with the low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological impregnation solution.

Ole

The preparations according to the present invention can advantageously also be present as anhydrous oils or oil gels or pastes. Advantageous oils are e.g. B. synthetic, semi-synthetic or natural oils such as rapeseed oil, rice oil, avocado oil, olive oil, mineral oil, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, Cι _2- ι ₅ alkylbenzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyldodecanol and the like. Various waxes with a melting point> 25 ° C can be used as oil gel formers. Gel formers from the group of aerosils, alkylgalactomannans (for example N-Hance AG 200 and N-Hance AG 50 from Hercules) and polyethylene derivatives are also advantageous. foams

Self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations are also particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention.

"Self-foaming", "foam-like", "post-foaming" or "foamable" means preparations from which foams - be it during the manufacturing process, be it in use by the consumer or in another way - by entering one or several gases can be produced in principle. In such foams, the gas bubbles are (arbitrarily) distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the (foamed) preparations not necessarily having to have the appearance of a foam macroscopically. (Foamed) cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention (hereinafter also referred to simply as foams for the sake of simplicity) can, for. B. represent macroscopically visible dispersed systems from gases dispersed in liquids. The foam character can, for example, only become visible under a (light) microscope. In addition, foams according to the invention - especially when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - can also be recognized from the large increase in volume of the system.

For the purposes of the present invention, such preparations advantageously contain an emulsifier system which consists of

A. at least one emulsifier A, selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,

B. at least one emulsifier B, selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and C. at least one coemulsifier C, selected from the group of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms. The one or more emulsifiers A are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are completely or partially neutralized with customary alkalis (such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine) , For example, stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.

The emulsifier (s) B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG- 40-sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG Glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. Polyethoxylated stearic acid esters, for example, are particularly advantageous.

According to the invention, the co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected from the following group: behenyl alcohol (C ₂₂ H ₄₅ OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (Cι ₆ H ₃₃ OH) and stearyl alcohol (C ₁₈ H ₃ OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax - alcohols, which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax obtained after the saponification of wool wax). Cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.

It is advantageous according to the invention to choose the weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) as a: b: c, with a, b and c, independently of one another, preferably having rational numbers from 1 to 5 can represent from 1 to 3. A weight ratio of approximately 1: 1: 1 is particularly preferred.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous for the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of co-emulsifier C to be in the range from 2 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 13% by weight .-%, each based on the total weight of the formulation to choose. Pickering / solid stabilized emulsions

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations which are stabilized only by finely divided solid particles are also particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention. Such “emulsifier-free” emulsions are also referred to as Pickering emulsions.

In Pickering emulsions, the solid material accumulates at the oil / water phase boundary in the form of a layer, which prevents the disperse phases from flowing together. The surface properties of the solid particles, which should show both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, are of particular importance.

The stabilizing solid particles can also advantageously be surface-treated to be water-repellent (“coated”), an amphiphilic character of these solid particles being formed or to be maintained. The surface treatment can consist in the solid particles being treated with a thin hydrophobic agent by methods known per se or hydrophilic layer.

The average particle diameter of the microfine solid particles used as a stabilizer is preferably chosen to be less than 100 μm, particularly advantageously less than 50 μm. It is essentially irrelevant in which form (platelets, rods, beads, etc.) or modification the solid particles used are present.

The microfine solid particles are preferably selected from the group of the amphiphilic metal oxide pigments. The following are particularly advantageous:

• Titanium dioxides (coated and uncoated): e.g. B. Eusolex T-2000 from Merck, titanium dioxide MT-100 Z from Tayca Corporation

• zinc oxides z. B. Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP1 from BASF AG, MZ-300, MZ-500 and MZ-505M from Tayca Corporation

• iron oxides Furthermore, it is advantageous if the microfine solid particles are selected from the following group: boron nitrides, starch derivatives (tapioca starch, sodium com starch octynyl succinate, etc.), talc, latex particles

It is advantageous according to the invention if the solid-stabilized emulsions contain significantly less than 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers or are even entirely emulsifier-free

pencils

10 Also advantageous for the purposes of the invention are preparations in the form of sticks. Technically, most stick formulations are water-free fat mixtures from solid or semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, with highly purified paraffinols and waxes being the stick base.

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breed 7 samτ; onseY * ψen as CY <Yage Y ≠ ΎΪB. e tecne - -m 'ie. t rveo r en Y n For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, Waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DM DM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ™), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those under the trade names Glycacil- L, Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like more. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.

Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. is firmly available from Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations contain beneficial one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Further advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitin, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarbon- acid (Dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; preliminary INCI name Octadecen- dioic acid).

Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local Hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

The water phase of the preparations according to the present invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol - Col, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or mono ethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which are advantageously chosen can be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984 , ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.

The preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously also contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like. Z are advantageous. B. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Metadolphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) - ethyl propionate (available from Merck under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535) The repellents can be used both individually and in combination.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the moisture release of the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the horny layer after application or distribution on the skin surface to positively influence. Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available. Moisturizers can also advantageously be used as anti-wrinkle agents for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described for example in US Pat. B. occur in skin aging, are used.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631 -86-9). The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24 , in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

According to the invention, z. B. natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).

For the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearylisonononate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearylateolate, n-butyl stearylateolate, n-butyl stearylateurate, n-butyl stearate, , Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-EthylhexyIlaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Stearylheptanoat, Oleyl oleate, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Tridecylstearim, natural as well as Synthetic, tri-synthetic trichloride as well as, Tridecylstearim, natural synthetic, Tridecyl trisimate, tri B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or di- caprylyl carbonate, for example that available from Cognis under the trade name Cetiol CC.

It is further preferred pentylglykoldiheptanoat the one or more oil components from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl, propylene glycol dicaprate, caprylic / capric / Diglyceryl- succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C _12- ι ₃ alkyl lactate, di-Cι ₂ -ι ₃ - Alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tri-caprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a C ₂ -C ₅ alkyl benzoate content or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Furthermore, the oil phase can also advantageously also contain nonpolar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohe- xadecan. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

The oil phase can also advantageously contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, Propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula

are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCl). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCl: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which are also referred to as cyclomethicones according to INCl, amino-modified silicones (INCl: amodimethicone) and silicone waxes. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCl: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

The preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:

(A) siloxane elastomers which contain the units R ₂ SiO and RSiOι, ₅ and / or R SiOo, ₅ and / or SiO ₂ , the individual radicals R each independently of one another hydrogen, C _1-24 -AlK- (such as Methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO to RSiOi.s is selected from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1;

(b) siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) which contains silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) which contains unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used be chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) • is in the range of 1 to 20 mol% if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and

• is in the range of 1 to 50 mol% when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

For the purposes of the present invention, the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.

Advantageous siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade name DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.

It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.

It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof. Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are particularly advantageous, especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ available from Grant Industries Inc. Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.

It is very exceptionally preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the silo xanelastomer in the gel is 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the gel.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous for the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) to be in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the Wording to choose.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, especially if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O, FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

If the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2 ~ hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene ~ 1'- sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4- Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolon-3 -carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein , 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetra-iodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indi- go-disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.

Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:

1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B. ^" " Fish silver "(guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and •" mother-of-pearl "(ground mussel shells)

2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI) 3rd layer substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

- ^• - - 'Fe ₂ Ö ₃ Fblack

Combination pigments ^! Ti0 ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ gold tones

Special selected from 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.

Accordingly, the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

The preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously also be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase and which, in particular, can advantageously also be free of further oil components.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCl: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCl: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethyl hexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCl: ethyl hexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxy cinnamic acid (2-ethyl hexyl) ester (2-ethyl hexyl 4-methoxy cinnamate, INCl: ethyl hexyl methoxy cinnamate) and 4-methoxy cinnamate (4-methoxy cinnamate) isophenoxy cinnamate , INCl: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is available, for example, under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Röche. Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are coated with a thin film using methods known per se hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings can also contain water in the sense of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) e, sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86- 9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or Alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Other advantageous pigments are latex particles. Latex particles which are advantageous according to the invention are those described in the following documents: US Pat. No. 5,663,213 and EP 0 761 201. Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which are formed from water and styrene / acrylate copolymers and, for. B. are available under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere" from Rohm & Haas. Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as, for. B .:

• Phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3 ^, -5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1 , 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP;

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCl designation phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;

• 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene)) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1 , 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephthalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;

• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are also benzoxazole derivatives, which are distinguished by the following structural formula, 33

The benzoxazole derivative or derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivative (s) are present in pigmentary, ie undissolved, form - for example in particle sizes from 10 nm to 300 nm.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called hydroxybenzophenones. Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by the following structural formula:

R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen, CrC ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -Cιo-cycloalkyl or C ₃ -Cιo-cycloalkenyl, the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bound 5- or δ-ring can form and R ^{3 is} a -CC ₂₀ alkyl radical.

A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.

• 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCl: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH; • Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCl: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;

• 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCl: ethylhexyl triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150;

• 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6).

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) ( INCl: methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol), which, for example is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3 ~ tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine;

• esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

• esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and

• UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, sold under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 T is available (octocrylene) from BASF.

Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention, further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [ for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4th -methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt in each case individually or in any Combinations with each other. The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting. The preparations according to the present invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations, to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

The preparations within the meaning of the present invention may also advantageously contain substances which increase the water resistance of the products. The substances mentioned to increase the water resistance are particularly advantageous:

A) PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCl: PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = z = 11 and x = 45]) and PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCl: PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = z = 4.5 and x = 22]) and methoxy PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCl: methoxy PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = 7 and x = 22 and R = CH ₃ ]), which are available from AKZO Nobel.

B) Water-soluble or water-dispersible polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene block polymers (CTFA name: Polaxamers, CAS No. 9003-11-6) with the following structure:

C) acetylated stearic acid esters, such as. B. Acetylated glycol stearate. The combination of acetylated glycol stearate with tristearin (INCl: acetylated glycol stearate and tristearin), which is available, for example, from ISP under the trade name Unitwix, can also advantageously be used according to the invention. Such products are registered under Chemical Abstracts registration numbers 91052-08-3 and 94944-95-3.

D) Further advantageous substances which can contribute to increasing the water resistance, but are incorporated into the oil phase of the preparations according to the present invention, are certain wax components, such as C _8- 36 fatty acid triglyceride (e.g. Syncrowax HGLC from Crode GmbH with the INCl: C18-36 acid triglycerides) and the substances available under the trade names "Performa V 1608" (INCl: C30-38 olefin / isopropyl maleate / MA copolymer) and "Perfroma V 825" (synthetic wax) from New Phase Technologies ,

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to combine one or more of the substances mentioned in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

Examples: In the following examples: • UVASorb® K2A = 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino -1,3,5-triazine [CAS No. 288254-16-0] • Uvinul® A Plus = 2- (4'-drethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone) • Tinopal CBS-X = 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) biphenyl disodium salt • Uvitex NFW Liquid contains 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) biphenyl disodium salt 1. O / W emulsions as an active ingredient

O / W emulsions

O / W emulsions

2. Foam-shaped O / W emulsions:

further foam-like O / W emulsions:

further foam-like O / W emulsions:

To produce the foam, 80-97% by volume of emulsion I are foamed with 3-20% by volume of a suitable gas (for example propane / butane, compressed air, nitrogen). 3. Thin to sprayable W / O emulsions

4. W / O emulsions (creams & lotions)

5. Hydrodispersions (for use as a lotion or spray)

6. Gel creams

7, oil gels

8. Solid stabilized emulsions

9. Geie:

Example 1 (Eve Shadow Gel):% by weight

PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol 400) 2.00

Ethanol 5.00

Aristoflex AVC 1, 50

Glycerin 2.00

Panthenol 0.50

Tocopherol acetate 0.50

Timiron Splendid blue ® (Merck KgaA) 4.50

Chromium oxide green 1, 00

UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0.70

Perfume, preservative, NaOH, complexing agent,

Dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 2 (Hiαhliαhter Gel) wt.%

Carbomer 1, 50

Glycerin 2.50

1, 3 butylene glycol 2.50

Glitter pigments (e.g. Helicone HC Scarabeus, Wacker) 1, 00

EDTA 0.20

Dimethicone 1, 50

Tinopal CBS-X 0.67

Perfume, preservative, NaOH,

Dyes, antioxidants, etc. q.S.

Water ad 100.00

Example 3 (Eve Liner Gel):% by weight pearlescent pigments 10.00 iron oxide 3.00 silica 2.00 Aristoflex AVC 1.00 Hyroxyproylethyl cellulose 0.35

Citric Acid q.s.

Glycerin 5.00

PVP / VA copolymer 2.00

Tinopal CBS-X 0.20

Perfume, preservatives, dyes, NaOH,

Complexing agents, antioxidants, etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00

10. Makeup

Example 1 (emulsion make-up): wt.% PEG-30 stearate 2.00

Glycerol monostearate 1, 00

Stearic acid 1, 00

Cyclomethicone 7.00

Octyldodecanol 7.00 isopropyl lanolate 4.00

Squalane 2.00

Octyl methoxycinnamate 2.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00

Xanthan gum 0.20 glycerin 5.00

Butylene glycol 2.00

Vitamin E acetate 1.00

Magnesium silicate 1.00

UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0.24 mica 1.00

Iron oxide 1.00

Titanium dioxide 2.50

Talc 5.00

EDTA 0.50 perfume, preservative, NaOH,

Antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 2 (emulsion make-up:% by weight

Cyclomethicone and PEG / PPG -18/18 dimethicone

(e.g. Dow Corning 3225 Formulation Aid) 10.00

Cyclomethicone 10.00

Beeswax 3.00

Polyglyceryl-4 oleate 2.00

Iron oxide 1.00

Titanium dioxide 2.50

Tinopal CBS-X 0.32

Talc 12.00

Sodium chloride 2.00

Perfume, preservative, NaOH,

Antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 3 (Cover Cream) wt%

Cyclomethicone 43.50

Beeswax 3.00

Carnauba wax 10.00

Lanolin oil 5.00

Paraffin oil 8.40

Cetyl alcohol 2.60

Iron oxide 3.00

Titanium dioxide 7.50

UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0.50

Nylon 6.00

Talc 10.50

Perfume, preservatives, antioxidants etc. qs Example 4 (emulsion make-up) ^% by weight

Cyclomethicone 18.00

Phenyltrimethicone 3.00

Cetyl PEG / PPG - 10/1 dimethicone (e.g. Abil EM 90) 4.00

Paraffin oil 3.00

Iron oxide 2.30

Titanium dioxide 4.50

UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0.30

Talc 2.00

Sodium chloride 2.00

Quaternium-18 hectorite 0.30

Propylene carbonate 0.08

Perfume, preservative, NaOH,

Antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing stilbene and / or its derivatives.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the total amount of stilbene and / or its derivatives is selected from the range from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

3. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the stilbene or derivatives are selected from the group: 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) -biphenyl disodium salt, 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) -biphenyl disodium- Salt.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one self-tanning substance.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one substance which absorbs UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains inorganic pigments which serve as UV filter substances.

7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is waterproof.

8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that stilbene and / or its derivatives (one or more compounds) are present individually or encapsulated with one another.

9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the stilbene derivative or derivatives are selected from the group of photolabile stilbene derivatives.

10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains one or more substances which ensure an extension of the light path and / or with which additional scattering and / or reflection centers are introduced into the formulation which improve the effects of stilbene and / or its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin.

11. A method for assessing represents Äuf rags close vo) cosmetic and dermatological üchtschufcformulierungen on the skin characterized in that one applies stilbene and / or its derivatives, which are incorporated in a cosmetic preparation to di skin and on the basis of the visible effect - gg ^f - with the help of a contrast enhancer - an estimate has already been made on soft areas of skin and or whether sufficient preparation has been applied and ^' or when it was necessary to reapply

12. Use of stilbene and / or its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and de iatotogische Uchtschufz formulations on the skin,