WO2004043413A1

WO2004043413A1 - Compositions for washing and conditioning hair

Info

Publication number: WO2004043413A1
Application number: PCT/EP2003/011798
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anand Ramchandra Mahadeshwar
Original assignee: Unilever Plc; Unilever Nv; Hindustan Lever Limited
Priority date: 2002-11-12
Filing date: 2003-10-21
Publication date: 2004-05-27
Also published as: CN1711068A; CN100430042C; ZA200502000B; TW200410721A; AR042022A1; TW200410722A; TWI319325B; GB0323276D0; GB0226380D0; AR041948A1; AU2003293624A1; TWI319986B

Abstract

Hair-washing composition, for straightening the hair and reducing volume and/or fluffiness after washing and drying, comprising: a) from 1 to 50 percent by weight of cleansing surfactant, b) from 0.05 to 0.5 % by weight of a first cationically substituted guar gum having a mean charge density at pH7 from 0.2 to 1.0 meq per gram, c) from 0.05 to 0.4 % by weight of a second cationically substituted guar gum having a mean charge density at pH7 from 1.3 to 3.0 meq per gram and d) 40 % by weight or more of water.

Description

COMPOSITIONS FOR WASHING AND CONDITIONING HAIR

Technical Field

The invention is concerned with rinse-off hair-conditioning compositions which are applied to the hair or body and then substantially rinsed away. It is particularly concerned with hair shampoo compositions and shower gels, which both clean the hair and provide conditioning benefit to the hair. More specifically, it is concerned with hair-washing compositions which have the effect of straightening the hair and reducing the volume and fluffiness of the hair.

Background and Prior Art

Compositions which provide a combination of cleansing and conditioning to the hair are know in the art. Such shampoo or shower-gel compositions typically comprise one or more surfactants for shampooing or cleansing purposes and one or more conditioning agents. The purpose of the conditioning agent is to make the hair easier to comb when wet and more manageable when dry, e.g. less static and fly-away. Typically, these conditioning agents are water-insoluble oily materials, cationic polymers or cationic surfactants.

Certain consumers desire low volume hair after washing. By low volume is meant that the hairs lie substantially straight and mutually parallel, trapping little air and leading to low hair volume, fluffiness or frizziness. In order to achieve this effect, such consumers may apply oils to the hair after washing. This gives the required low volume, but at the expense of requiring a two-step washing and conditioning process. Moreover the oil remains in the hair until the next wash, making it feel greasy and heavy. Other consumers may use hot air dryers to straighten their hair after washing in order to achieve the effect of straight hair and a low volume hair style.

There is a need for a hair-washing composition which achieves the effect of low volume, low fluffiness, straightened hair after washing and natural drying, without the need for applying oils to the hair after washing.

It is known to incorporate cationic polymers in hair-washing compositions. For instance. US 6,444,628 discloses an aqueous shampoo comprising, in addition to water, an anionic cleansing surfactant, a cationic polymer and a monoalkyl quaternary ammonium compound.

Such cationic polymers are often used in combination with water-insoluble conditioning oils in order to improve the deposition of the conditioning oils onto the hair. US Patent 3,753,916 discloses the use of cationic polymers as deposition aids.

O98/050007 discloses styling shampoo compositions which comprise, in addition to a surfactant component, a cationic deposition polymer having a cationic charge density of from 0.2 to 2 meq/gm and 0.5 to 10% of an organic cationic hair styling polymer having a cationic charge density greater than 2 and less than 4.75 meq/gm. WO00/66080 discloses shampoo compositions comprising a cationic guar derivative with a charge density from 0.05 to 1.0 meq/gm and optionally further comprising other cationic polymers .

It has now been found that by using a specific combination of cationic polymers in aqueous hair-washing compositions, a surprising benefit in hair straightening and reduction in hair style volume can be achieved. This benefit is achieved without the need to use oils in the compositions. Nor is it necessary to apply oils to the hair either directly or from post-wash hair conditioning compositions in order to achieve low volume hair with low fluffiness. Nor is hot-air drying needed to achieve the effect.

Detailed Description of the Invention

In a first aspect, the invention is concerned with a hair- washing composition comprising

a) from 1 to 50 percent by weight of a cleansing surfactant,

b) from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight of a first cationic polymer having a mean charge density at pH7 from 0.2 to 1.0 meq per gram,

c) from 0.05 to 0.4% by weight of a second cationic polymer having a mean charge density at pH7 from 1.3 to 3.0 meq per gram and d) 40% by weight or more of water,

characterised in that both the first and second cationic polymers are cationically substituted guar gums.

Compositions of the invention are aqueous, by which ist is meant that they comprise 40% or more by weight of water, preferably 50% or more, more preferably 60% or more.

Cleansing Surfactant

Compositions according to the invention comprise one or more cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Further surfactants may be present as an additional ingredient if sufficient for cleansing purposes is not provided by the emulsifier for the water-insoluble oily component.

Suitable cleansing surfactants, which may be used singularly or in combination, are selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof .

Anionic Cleansing Surfactant

Shampoo compositions according to the invention will typically comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Examples of suitable anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha- olefin sulphonates, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule .

Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate. The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (n) EO, (where n ranges from 1 to 3) , ammonium lauryl sulphate and ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (n) EO, (where n ranges from 1 to 3) .

Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants may also be suitable.

The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant in shampoo compositions of the invention is generally from 0.5 to 45, preferably from 1.5 to 35, more preferably from 5 to 20 percent by weight of the composition. Co-surfactant

The composition can include co-surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition.

A preferred example is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0 to about 8, preferably from 1 to 4 percent by weight.

Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines) , alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine and preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocamphopropionate .

Another preferred example is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0 to 8, preferably from 2 to 5 percent by weight of the composition.

For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention include condensation products of aliphatic (Cg-Cis) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides . Examples include coco mono- or di- ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide .

Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs) . Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups . Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:

RO (G) n

wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.

R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C₅ to about C₂₀- Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about Cβ to about C₁₂ • Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G may be selected from C₅ or C₅ monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose.

The degree of polymerisation, n, may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies in the range of from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of n lies in the range of from about 1.3 to about 1.5.

Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel .

Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included in compositions of the invention include the Cio-Ciβ

N-alkyl (Ci-Cg) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the

Ci₂~ i₈ N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in WO 92 06154 and US 5 194 639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as Cio-Ciβ N- (3-methoxypropyl) glucamide .

The composition according to the invention can also optionally include one or more cationic co-surfactants included in an amount from 0.01 to 10, more preferably from 0.05 to 5, most preferably from 0.05 to 2 percent by weight of the composition.

The total amount of cleansing surfactant (including any co- surfactant, and/or any emulsifier) in compositions of the invention is generally from 1 to 50, preferably from 2 to 40, more preferably from 10 to 25 percent by weight of the composition. A preferred blend of cleansing surfactants is a combination of ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, PEG 5 cocamide and cocamide MEA (CTFA designations) .

Cationic Polymer

A combination of two cationic polymers is essential to compositions of the invention for providing the benefit of hair straightening and reduction in volume of hair style.

The first cationic polymer is a cationically substituted guar gum and suitably has a mean charge density at pH7 from 0.2 to 1.0 meq per gram, preferably from 0.5 to 0.9 meq per gram. The first cationic polymer suitably has a mean molecular weight M^ from 5000 to 10 000 000 unified atomic mass units, preferably from 100 000 to 2 000 000.

The second cationic polymer is also a cationically substituted guar gum and suitably has a mean charge density at pH7 from 1.3 to 3.0 meq per gram, preferably from 1.5 to

2.0 meq per gram. The second cationic polymer suitably has a mean molecular weight Mw from 5000 to 10 000 000 unified atomic mass units, preferably from 100 000 to 2 000 000.

The charge density on the cationic polymer can be measured using the Kjeldahl method (as described in the US Pharmocopoeia) and should be the value at pH7. The cationic charge density of a polymer is the ratio of the positive charge on the polymer to the molecular weight (weight average) of the polymer. Information concerning the charge density and the mean molecular weight of cationic polymers is generally available from commercial suppliers of such polymers .

The first and second cationic polymers are cationically substituted guar gums, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR trademark series) .

Cationically substituted guar gums are cationic derivatives of polygalactomannan gums, typically obtained from the seeds of the guar plant. The cationic derivatives are obtained by reaction of the hydroxyl groups of the polygalactomannan with reactive quaternary ammonium compounds. A preferred catonic guar for the invenition is guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride .

An example of a material suitable for use as the first cationic polymer is JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity. This polymer has a charge density of 0.8 meq/gram at pH7 and a molecular weight of 200 000.

JAGUAR C17 has a high degree of substitution leading to a charge density of 1.6 meq/gram at pH7. It also has a mean molecular weight Mw of 200 000 and is suitable as a material for the second cationic polymer.

The first cationic polymer will generally be present in compositions of the invention at levels of from 0.05 to 0.5, preferably from 0.1 to 0.4, more preferably from 0.15 to 0.3 percent by weight of the composition.

The second cationic polymer will generally be present in compositions of the invention at levels of from 0.05 to 0.4, preferably from 0.1 to 0.4, more preferably from 0.15 to 0.3 percent by weight of the composition.

Aqueous Compositions

In addition to the cleansing surfactant and the cationic polymers, compositions according to the invention additionally comprise water. Suitably most of the remainder of the composition is made up of water. Suitably compositions according to the invention comprise 40 or more, preferably 50 or more, more preferably 60 or more percent by weight of water.

Other ingredients

Compositions according to the invention may additionally contain other ingredients suitable for use in hair cleansing and conditioning compositions. Hydrophobic, water-insoluble conditioning oils may be included.

This may be a non-silicone hydrophobic oil but is more preferably a silicone conditioning agent. By water insoluble it is meant that the material has a solubility in water of 0.1% or less by weight of water at 25 °C. Preferably the silicone conditioning agent is non-volatile, meaning that it has a vapour pressure of less than 1000 Pa at 25 °C. The conditioning oil is present in the composition as discrete emulsion droplets.

Silicone Conditioning Agents

The compositions of the invention can contain, emulsified droplets of a silicone conditioning agent, for enhancing conditioning performance.

Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use compositions of the invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol . Also suitable for use in compositions of the invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 96/31188.

The viscosity of the silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is typically in the

2 -l range from 350 to 10,000,000 mm sec at 25°C. Preferably

2 -1 the viscosity is at least 5,000 mm sec at 25 °C, more

2 -l preferably at least 10,000 mm sec . Preferably the

2 -1 viscosity does not exceed 500,000 mm sec

Viscosity of silicones can be measured using a glass capillary viscometer as set out in Dow Corning corporate test method CTM004 July 20, 1970 at 25 °C. A further preferred class of silicones for inclusion in compositions of the invention are amino functional silicones. By "amino functional silicone" is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include: polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation "amodimethicone" , Specific examples of amino functional silicones suitable for use in the invention are the aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166, DC2-8466, and DC2-8950-114 (all ex Dow Corning), and GE 1149-75, (ex General Electric Silicones) .

Suitable quaternary silicone polymers are described in EP-A- 0 530 974. A preferred quaternary silicone polymer is K3474, ex Goldschmidt .

It is preferred to use a combination of amino and non amino functional silicones

The total amount of silicone is preferably from 0.01% to 10 % by weight of the total composition more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, most preferably 0.5% to 3%.

The silicones may be added to the composition as a fluid and subsequently emulsified, but preferably are added as preformed emulsions for ease of processing. Preferably, the pre-formed silicone emulsions additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier such as dodecylbenzenesulphonic acid, or an ethoxylated nonionic surfactant. Non-silicone Hydrophobic Conditioning Oil

Compositions according to the present invention may comprise a dispersed, non-volatile, water-insoluble oily non-silicone conditioning agent.

Suitable oily or fatty materials are selected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters and mixtures thereof.

Straight chain hydrocarbon oils will preferably contain from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms. Also suitable are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as C2-C6 alkenyl monomers .

Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used. Another suitable material is polyisobutylene .

Suitable fatty esters are characterised by having at least 10 carbon atoms, and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols, Monocarboxylic acid esters include esters of alcohols and/or acids of the formula R'COOR in which R' and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20. Di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used.

Particularly preferred fatty esters are mono-, di- and triglycerides, more specifically the mono-, di-, and tri- esters of glycerol and long chain carboxylic acids such as C1-C22 carboxylic acids. Preferred materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil.

Preferably, the viscosity of the conditioning oil itself

(not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning

2 -l composition) is in the range from 350 to 10,000,000 mm sec at 25°C. More preferably the viscosity is at least 5,000

2 -1 2 -1 mm sec at 25 °C, most preferably at least 10,000 mm sec

2 -l Preferably the viscosity does not exceed 500,000 mm sec

The oily or fatty material is suitably present at a level of from 0.05 to 20, preferably from 0.2 to 10, more preferably from about 0.5 to 5 percent by weight of the composition.

Suspending Agents

Compositions according to the invention may further comprise from 0.1 to 10 percent by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 6%, of a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof . Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives. Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used, they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing a monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trade mark) materials are available from Goodrich.

Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.

Adjuvants

The compositions of the present invention may also contain adjuvants suitable for hair care.

Among suitable hair care adjuvants, are natural hair root nutrients, such as amino acids and sugars. Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine, and/or precursors and derivatives thereof. The amino acids may be added singly, in mixtures, or in the form of peptides, e.g. di- and tripeptides. The amino acids may also be added in the form of a protein hydrolysate, such as a keratin or collagen hydrolysate. Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These may be added singly or in the form of, e.g. fruit extracts. A particularly preferred combination of natural hair root nutrients for inclusion in compositions of the invention is isoleucine and glucose. A particularly preferred amino acid nutrient is arginine. Another suitable adjuvant is glycolic acid.

Mode of Use

The compositions of the invention are primarily intended for topical application to the hair and/or scalp of a human subject in rinse-off compositions, in order to provide cleansing while additionally providing the benefit of improved hair straightness after drying the hair. The compositions are also used to provide reduced volume and/or fluffiness of hair style after the hair is dried. In order to achieve the benefits it is not necessary to dry the hair using a heated air hair-drying apparatus, and it is preferred if the hair is allowed to dry naturally after towelling and brushing.

The invention is further demonstrated with reference to the following, non-limiting examples: Examples

Table 1

Shampoo compositions were made up according to compositions of columns A, B and 1 of table 1. Example 1 is a composition according to the invention whereas examples A and B are comparative examples.

2g of 25 cm long Asian hair switches were degreased using diethyl ether and rinsed in water. Using 5 switches per treatment, 0.2 ml of each of the shampoo compositions (either A, B or 1) was spread along the length of the switch and agitated for 30 seconds, followed by a rinse for 30 seconds. The washing process was repeated again using 0.2 ml of shampoo placed along the length of the switch and agitated for 30 seconds, followed by a rinse in water for 1 minute. The switches were combed through whilst suspended vertically from a clamp stand, then rinsed with a spray of water from a water bottle. The switches were then allowed to dry naturally overnight.

After drying, each switch was suspended vertically from a clamp stand and a 2 mW, 632.8 nanometre wavelength Helium- Neon laser shone perpendicular to the untouched switch, 5 cm from the bottom of the switch, and the illuminated image recorded onto an optical disc using a 35mm camera.

Image analysis was carried out on the resulting image to estimate the spread of each hair switch 5 cm from the bottom of each switch (expressed as mean radial distribution in mm) . The smaller the value for the spread, the lower the apparent volume of the switch and the greater the straightness of the fibres.

The mean results obtained for the radial distribution were:

A : 17 . 3 mm

B : 15 . 8 mm

1 : 14 . 8 mm

Hence composition 1, with a first and a second cationic polymer according to the invention, provides significantly reduced volume and improved straightness over the comparative examples A and B, which have the same weight percent of a single cationic polymer.

Claims

1. A hair-washing composition comprising

a) from 1 to 50 percent by weight of cleansing surfactant,

c) from 0.05 to 0.4% by weight of a second cationic polymer having a mean charge density at pH7 from 1.3 to 3.0 meq per gram and

d) 40% by weight or more of water,

2. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the cleansing surfactant is selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or claim 2 wherein the first and second cationic polymers are guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides .

4. A method of reducing the volume and/or fluffiness of hair comprising washing the hair with a composition according to any preceding claim followed by drying the hair.

5. A method of straightening the hair comprising washing the hair with a composition according to any of claims 1 to 3 followed by drying the hair.

6. The use of compositions according to claims 1 to 3 for reducing the volume and/or fluffiness of hair.

7. The use of compositions according to claims 1 to 3 for straightening hair.