WO2004006870A2 - Produits cosmetiques contenant des matieres conferant un aspect brillant - Google Patents

Produits cosmetiques contenant des matieres conferant un aspect brillant Download PDF

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WO2004006870A2
WO2004006870A2 PCT/EP2003/007727 EP0307727W WO2004006870A2 WO 2004006870 A2 WO2004006870 A2 WO 2004006870A2 EP 0307727 W EP0307727 W EP 0307727W WO 2004006870 A2 WO2004006870 A2 WO 2004006870A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic
preparation according
cosmetic preparation
glitter
advantageous
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PCT/EP2003/007727
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2004006870A3 (fr
Inventor
Rainer Kröpke
Stephan Ruppert
Michaela Kohut
Boris Syskowski
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2004006870A2 publication Critical patent/WO2004006870A2/fr
Publication of WO2004006870A3 publication Critical patent/WO2004006870A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with glitter substances.
  • skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
  • Active ingredients are often added to skin care products to regenerate the skin and, for example, to prevent and reduce its premature aging (e.g. the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles).
  • UV cosmetic filters are added to many cosmetic and dermatological products.
  • Cosmetic formulations often represent externally uniform, homogeneous preparations. However, these are increasingly becoming monotonous by consumers and felt boring. In order to make the preparations more attractive to the user, coloring and effect substances can be added to them.
  • Cosmetic gels are mostly transparent (transparent) or translucent (translucent) preparations. In order to make these products visually more attractive to the consumer, they can be colored.
  • HydrokoUoids also called thickeners or gel formers
  • thickeners or gel formers are added to the preparations so that the effect substances in a gel formulation remain stationary and do not sink to the bottom or in any way make other unpleasant migrations in the formulations.
  • HydrokoUoids are macromolecules that have a largely linear shape and have intermolecular interaction forces that enable secondary and main valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a network-like structure. Some of them are water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water.
  • Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, the common feature of which is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked.
  • the Hydrophilic groups can be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:
  • the group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocoids can be divided as follows into: organic, natural compounds, such as agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth,
  • Conventional glitter fabrics such as those described in DE 198 34 946, generally consist of small particles containing metal salts. These particles have the disadvantage that they release, especially in water-containing media
  • Tilt metal ions into the cosmetic preparation are particularly in cosmetic, surfactant-containing cleaning formulations such as shower gels or shampoos
  • the released metal ions in particular iron or copper ions, have the major disadvantage that they can be found in the Formulations of existing polymeric hydrocoids decompose catalytically, causing the gel structure of the preparation to collapse over time.
  • the released metal ions and the decomposition of the hydrocoids also discolor the preparation and the glitter substances it contains.
  • the shelf life of cosmetics containing glitter, which contain hydrocoids, is therefore generally limited.
  • complexing agents are added to the preparations, which are intended to complex released metal ions.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • HOEDTA hydroxyethylenediaminotriesacetic acid
  • DPTA diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid
  • CDTA Tetrasodium minodisuccinate and / or trisodium ethlenediamine disuccinate added.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • the complexing agents are only used in extremely small quantities in cosmetics, but in individual cases they can cause allergic or hypersensitive reactions (e.g. skin irritation). Therefore, their concentration in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations should be kept as low as possible or, ideally, should not be used at all.
  • the object of the present invention to eliminate or at least alleviate the shortcomings of the prior art and to develop cosmetics containing glitter which are stable in the long term.
  • the preparations should be as possible get along with a small amount of complexing agents or contain no complexing agents.
  • a particular problem with tanning is the uneven brown coloring of the skin.
  • the individual skin areas are exposed to the sun to different degrees and form different amounts of melanin. Skin areas that are rarely exposed to sunlight hardly tan. Sun tanning therefore results in an uneven and often unaesthetic tanning of the skin.
  • a cosmetic preparation comprising a) one or more glitter substances based on one or more organic polymers which are essentially free of metal salts b) one or more hydrocoids, in addition to any other cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives ,
  • the phrase “essentially free of metal salts” according to the invention means that the concentration of metal salts in the glitter fabrics is less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, based on the weight of the glitter fabrics.
  • WO 98/52535 and 99/24001 describe skin care products containing pigments, these documents could not be the route to the present invention point, since only metal-containing substances are used as coloring pigment in these documents. All comparable skin care products disclosed so far lack long-term stable properties since, because of the catalytic decomposition of the stabilizing polymer bodies, they do not permit use as a cosmetic. In addition, unstable, pigment-containing products also have an unattractive appearance on the skin. After applying the cream, the skin looks lighter or darker than the neighboring areas.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains one or more glitter substances based on one or more organic polymers in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 1.5% by weight contains very particularly advantageously in an amount of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparation has one or more hydrocoids in a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.1 to 7% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration from 0.3 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the glitter fabrics according to the invention have a core made of organic polymers.
  • the glitter substances according to the invention consist particularly advantageously of acrylate copolymers, polybutylene terephthalates, ethylene / vinyl acetate copolymers and / or polyethylene naphthalates.
  • So-called mica are preferably used, which are referred to according to the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients (INCI) as acrylate copolymer, polybutylene terephthalate, ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer, acrylate copolymer and polyethylene naphthalate.
  • Preferred mica according to the invention are, for example, the products available from 3M TM under the trade names 3M TM Highly Reflective Visible Mirror Glitter and 3 / TColored Mirror Glitter, and the products available from Eckart America LP under the trade names Glimmer-Sparkles.
  • glitter pigments made from aluminum foils coated with polymers and free from colored metal salts can advantageously be used.
  • Aluminum is protected from oxidation by coating so that no metal ions can be released.
  • Glitter preferred according to the invention are, for example, the products available from Eckart America LP under the trade names non-tamish-sparkles.
  • HydrokoUoids which are advantageous according to the invention are agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum, arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose derivatives, polysaccharides, polyacrylics - And polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, zeolites, silicas are used.
  • HydrokoUoids preferred according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the
  • R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methyl celluloses and which, in addition to a dominant content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups.
  • (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses are particularly preferred, for example those sold under the trade name Methocel E4M by Dow Chemical Comp. available.
  • sodium carboxymethyl cellulose the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH2-COONa.
  • Particularly preferred is the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also known as cellulose gum.
  • xanthan CAS No. 11138-66-2
  • xanthan gum which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is generally formed from corn sugar by fermentation and is isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 * 106 to 24x106.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain with ⁇ -1,4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains.
  • the structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • Xanthan is the name for the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15 106.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain with ⁇ -1,4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains.
  • the structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • the number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthane.
  • Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on the carbohydrate used. Yields of 25-30 g / l are achieved. The work-up takes place after killing the culture by precipitation with z.
  • An advantageous gelling agent in the sense of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming extract similar to agar from northern Atlantic, belonging to the floridae red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).
  • carrageen is often used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract from it.
  • the carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulfate content of approx. 25%.
  • Carrageenan which is very easily soluble in warm water; a thixotropic gel forms on cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%. The firmness of the gel is brought about by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. A distinction is made with carrageenan.
  • the gel-forming ⁇ -fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1, 3 and 1,4 positions (agar contains, on the other hand, 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -L-galactose).
  • the non-gelling ⁇ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues u. Easily soluble in cold water.
  • the i-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble as well as gel-forming.
  • Other types of carrageenan are also designated with Greek letters: ⁇ , ß, ⁇ , ⁇ , v, ⁇ , ⁇ , co, ⁇ .
  • the type of cations present (K +, NH4 +, Na +, Mg2 +, Ca2 +) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.
  • Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention.
  • Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those which are selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of NOVEON Inc.).
  • the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:
  • R ' represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.
  • acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are sold under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984, Aqua SF-1 by NOVEON Inc. or as Aculyn® 33 by International Specialty Products Corp. are available.
  • neutralized or partially neutralized polyacrylates e.g. Carbopole from Noveon.
  • the total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen to be less than 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the content of one or more polyacrylates in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsion is in the range from 0.1 to 8% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight. is selected, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more surfactants.
  • surfactants According to the invention, both anionic, cationic, nonionic and zwitterionic surfactants can advantageously be used.
  • wash-active anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are acylamino acids and their salts, such as ⁇ acylglutamates, in particular sodium acylglutamate
  • ⁇ sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium and sodium,
  • Sulfonic acids and their salts such as ⁇ acyl isethionates, for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate, Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate and derivatives,
  • ⁇ acyl isethionates for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, disodium
  • sulfuric acid esters such as
  • Alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C 12 . 13 pareth sulfate,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Advantageous wash-active cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are quaternary surfactants.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups.
  • alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultain are advantageous.
  • Acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamines for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate,
  • alkanolamides such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA
  • esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
  • ⁇ ethers for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated poly- siloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside,
  • ⁇ taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • ⁇ ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate, sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate
  • organophosphate and salts such as DEA oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate, ⁇ Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C ⁇ . 2 14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate and N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-hydroxyethylglycinate sodium salts and their derivatives.
  • non-ionic surfactants are alcohols.
  • glutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoyiaspartat and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate
  • carboxylic acids and derivatives such as
  • ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
  • wash-active surfactant or surfactants from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35.
  • Surfactant combinations of alkyl ether sulfates with amphoteric cosurfactants are preferred according to the invention, a surfactant combination of lauryl ether sulfate with cocoamidopropyl betaine or cocoamphoacetate being particularly preferred.
  • the content of one or more detergent surfactants in the cosmetic preparation is in the range from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 10 to 20 % By weight is selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain polysorbates.
  • Polysorbates' represents a class of compounds from the sorbitan, a sorbitol made by cleavage of two equivalents of water recovered furan derivative itself.
  • the hydroxyl groups of sorbitan are etherified with polyethylene glycols, the ends of which may be esterified with fatty acids. They can be generalized by the formula
  • Ri. R2, R3 H, fatty acid residue.
  • these are advantageously used in a concentration of 0.1 to 5% by weight and in particular in a concentration of 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, individually or as a mixture of several polysorbates.
  • the cosmetic preparation additionally contains one or more oil phases in addition to one or more water phases and is present, for example, in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions.
  • Such formulations can preferably also be a microemulsion (e.g. a PIT emulsion), a solid emulsions (ie an emulsion which is stabilized by solids, e.g. a Pickering emulsion), with transparent or translucent microemulsions are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the preparation according to the invention can also contain, in addition to water, other ingredients, for example alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, as well as low carbon number alcohols, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol and glycerin.
  • other ingredients for example alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, mono
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain moisturizing or moisturizing agents (so-called moisturizers).
  • moisturizing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride Gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
  • hyaluronic acid chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide
  • chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B.
  • Fucogel®1000 is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
  • starch and starch derivatives such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like
  • pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.
  • Aerosile ® CAS No. 7631-86-9
  • antioxidants are generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose. It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.
  • active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as.
  • Recipes according to the invention which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • skin aging such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiec
  • compositions according to the invention include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (e.g. hydrocortisone) as well as plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root.
  • glucocorticoids e.g. hydrocortisone
  • plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root.
  • the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageous, for example are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B.
  • cocoglyceride olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
  • oil component (s) from the group isoeikosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides (eg Myritol® C 12 from Henkel) 13- alkyl lactate, di-C 12-13- alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexa- caprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C 12 ⁇ 5 -alkyl or consists entirely of this.
  • Advantageous oil components are also z.
  • the oil phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squal . s, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane.
  • non-polar oils for example those selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squal .
  • polyolefins polyolefins
  • hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane.
  • polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated.
  • the silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • cyclomethicones are also advantageous, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimimethicones) and.
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the invention can also contain all water-soluble and / or oil-soluble UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substances approved according to the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • compositions optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, other plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, repellents , Self-tanners, depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other customary components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as emulsifiers, polymers, foam stabilizers and electrolytes.
  • additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, other plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, repellents , Self-tanners, depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other custom
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more preservatives according to the invention.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM Hydantoin, which is available, for example, under the trade name Glydant TM from Lonza), iodopropylbutyl carbamate (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker) , Parabens (ie, p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like.
  • formaldehyde releasers such as, for example, DMDM Hydantoin, which is available, for example, under the trade name Glydant TM from Lon
  • the preservation system according to the invention advantageously also includes preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • preservation aids such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • Preservatives or preservative additives customary in cosmetics such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynylbutylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinyl, are also advantageous in cosmetics - urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol.
  • preservatives are advantageous in a concentration of 2% by weight or less than 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight or less than 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 1% by weight or less than 1% by weight , each based on the total weight of the preparation in the composition which it had at the time of application to the substrate, contained in the preparation according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably have a water content of more than 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain one or more conditioners.
  • conditioners according to the invention are, for example, all compounds which are described in Section 4 below in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th edition, 2002) the keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin-Conditioning Agents, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Humactant, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Occlusive and Skin Protectans are all listed in the EP 0934956 (p.11-13) under water soluble conditioning agent and oil soluble conditioning agent.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more UV light protection filter substances.
  • All UV light protection filters that are approved for use in cosmetics according to the Cosmetics Ordinance can advantageously be used according to the invention.
  • these can be water-soluble, oil-soluble and or pigmentary light protection filters.
  • the use of polymers for the production of stable glitter-containing cosmetic preparations can advantageously contain one or more UV light protection filter substances.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention as a shampoo, shower gel, wash lotion and / or bath tub is according to the invention.
  • the present invention also relates to cleaning products based on emulsions. These are formulated in such a way that the emulsion is stabilized with emulsifiers and then a surfactant system is adapted. These preparations usually also contain hydrocoids for stabilization.
  • surfactant-containing emulsions which do not contain any emulsifier in the conventional sense and are stabilized by hydrocoids, preferably based on acrylate, are advantageous. These are, for example, preparations as disclosed in EP 00112547.
  • preparation according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention as a skin care product or decorative cosmetic.

Abstract

Préparation cosmétique qui contient (a) une ou plusieurs matières conférant un aspect brillant à base d'un ou plusieurs polymères organiques, essentiellement exemptes de sels métalliques, et (b) un ou plusieurs hydrocolloïdes, ainsi, éventuellement, que d'autres principes actifs, additifs et adjuvants cosmétiques ou dermatologiques.
PCT/EP2003/007727 2002-07-17 2003-07-16 Produits cosmetiques contenant des matieres conferant un aspect brillant WO2004006870A2 (fr)

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DE2002132366 DE10232366A1 (de) 2002-07-17 2002-07-17 Glitterstoffhaltige Kosmetika

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Cited By (13)

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EP1510203A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2005-03-02 JOHNSON & JOHNSON CONSUMER COMPANIES, INC. Compositions de nettoyage douces et efficaces pour le corps, comprenant un copolymère acrylique anionique réticulé, modifié hydrophobiquement, et un tensio-actif anionique
EP1510202A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2005-03-02 JOHNSON & JOHNSON CONSUMER PRODUCTS, INC. Compositions de nettoyage douces et efficaces pour le corps, comprenant un copolymère acrylique anionique, modifié hydrophobiquement, et un tensio-actif anionique
EP1510204A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2005-03-02 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Compositions de nettoyage douces et efficaces pour le corps, comprenant un copolymère acrylique anionique, modifié hydrophobiquement, et un tensio-actif anionique
WO2005048971A1 (fr) * 2003-11-19 2005-06-02 Beiersdorf Ag Utilisation de systemes de tensioactifs pour diminuer la deterioration des enzymes corporelles
EP1660620A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2006-05-31 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Procede visant a attenuer l'irritation causee par des compositions pour soins personnels
US7098180B2 (en) 2003-08-28 2006-08-29 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies Inc. Mild and effective cleansing compositions
US7157414B2 (en) 2003-08-28 2007-01-02 J&J Consumer Companies, Inc. Methods of reducing irritation in personal care compositions
US7754667B2 (en) 2005-05-10 2010-07-13 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Low-irritation compositions and methods of making the same
US7776318B2 (en) 2004-11-26 2010-08-17 L'oreal S.A. Liquid cleaning composition comprising at least one anionic surfactant and its use for cleansing human keratin materials
US7803403B2 (en) 2006-11-09 2010-09-28 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Low-irritation compositions and methods of making the same
US7820608B2 (en) 2007-07-17 2010-10-26 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Methods of cleansing dyed hair
DE102012218091A1 (de) * 2012-10-04 2014-04-10 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Reinigungszubereitung mit neuartigem Assoziativverdicker
US9265975B2 (en) 2003-09-25 2016-02-23 Beiersdorf Ag Foaming preparation with a yield point comprising an anionic surfactant and a cross-linked, alkali swellable acrylate copolymer

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FR2916629B1 (fr) * 2007-05-30 2009-10-02 Lvmh Rech Composition cosmetique nettoyante de la peau du corps ou des cheveux
DE102012212106A1 (de) * 2012-07-11 2014-01-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zur Herstellung eines pflegenden, kosmetischen Reinigungsmittels

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WO1999036478A1 (fr) * 1998-01-13 1999-07-22 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Brillant pourvu d'une couche mince a changement de couleur
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Cited By (23)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7157414B2 (en) 2003-08-28 2007-01-02 J&J Consumer Companies, Inc. Methods of reducing irritation in personal care compositions
US7098180B2 (en) 2003-08-28 2006-08-29 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies Inc. Mild and effective cleansing compositions
EP1510203A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2005-03-02 JOHNSON & JOHNSON CONSUMER COMPANIES, INC. Compositions de nettoyage douces et efficaces pour le corps, comprenant un copolymère acrylique anionique réticulé, modifié hydrophobiquement, et un tensio-actif anionique
EP1673424A4 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2006-11-15 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Methodes permettant d'attenuer l'irritation causee par des compositions pour soins personnels
EP1660620A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2006-05-31 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Procede visant a attenuer l'irritation causee par des compositions pour soins personnels
EP1673424A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2006-06-28 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Methodes permettant d'attenuer l'irritation causee par des compositions pour soins personnels
US7084104B2 (en) 2003-08-28 2006-08-01 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Company Inc. Mild and effective cleansing compositions
EP1510202A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2005-03-02 JOHNSON & JOHNSON CONSUMER PRODUCTS, INC. Compositions de nettoyage douces et efficaces pour le corps, comprenant un copolymère acrylique anionique, modifié hydrophobiquement, et un tensio-actif anionique
US7119059B2 (en) 2003-08-28 2006-10-10 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Mild and effective cleansing compositions
EP1660620B1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2011-06-08 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Procede visant a attenuer l'irritation causee par des compositions pour soins personnels
EP1510204A1 (fr) * 2003-08-28 2005-03-02 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Compositions de nettoyage douces et efficaces pour le corps, comprenant un copolymère acrylique anionique, modifié hydrophobiquement, et un tensio-actif anionique
US9265975B2 (en) 2003-09-25 2016-02-23 Beiersdorf Ag Foaming preparation with a yield point comprising an anionic surfactant and a cross-linked, alkali swellable acrylate copolymer
WO2005048971A1 (fr) * 2003-11-19 2005-06-02 Beiersdorf Ag Utilisation de systemes de tensioactifs pour diminuer la deterioration des enzymes corporelles
US7776318B2 (en) 2004-11-26 2010-08-17 L'oreal S.A. Liquid cleaning composition comprising at least one anionic surfactant and its use for cleansing human keratin materials
US7906475B2 (en) 2005-05-10 2011-03-15 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Low-irritation compositions and methods of making the same
US7754666B2 (en) 2005-05-10 2010-07-13 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Low-irritation compositions and methods of making the same
US7754667B2 (en) 2005-05-10 2010-07-13 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Low-irritation compositions and methods of making the same
US7803403B2 (en) 2006-11-09 2010-09-28 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Low-irritation compositions and methods of making the same
US8025902B2 (en) 2006-11-09 2011-09-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Low-irritation compositions and methods of making the same
US7820608B2 (en) 2007-07-17 2010-10-26 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Methods of cleansing dyed hair
US8030262B2 (en) 2007-07-17 2011-10-04 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Methods of cleansing dyed hair
US9820930B2 (en) 2012-10-04 2017-11-21 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic cleansing preparations with novel associative thickener
DE102012218091A1 (de) * 2012-10-04 2014-04-10 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Reinigungszubereitung mit neuartigem Assoziativverdicker

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