WO2004006870A2 - Cosmetics containing a glittering substance - Google Patents

Cosmetics containing a glittering substance Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004006870A2
WO2004006870A2 PCT/EP2003/007727 EP0307727W WO2004006870A2 WO 2004006870 A2 WO2004006870 A2 WO 2004006870A2 EP 0307727 W EP0307727 W EP 0307727W WO 2004006870 A2 WO2004006870 A2 WO 2004006870A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic
preparation according
cosmetic preparation
glitter
advantageous
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PCT/EP2003/007727
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German (de)
French (fr)
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WO2004006870A3 (en
Inventor
Rainer Kröpke
Stephan Ruppert
Michaela Kohut
Boris Syskowski
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2004006870A2 publication Critical patent/WO2004006870A2/en
Publication of WO2004006870A3 publication Critical patent/WO2004006870A3/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with glitter substances.
  • skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
  • Active ingredients are often added to skin care products to regenerate the skin and, for example, to prevent and reduce its premature aging (e.g. the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles).
  • UV cosmetic filters are added to many cosmetic and dermatological products.
  • Cosmetic formulations often represent externally uniform, homogeneous preparations. However, these are increasingly becoming monotonous by consumers and felt boring. In order to make the preparations more attractive to the user, coloring and effect substances can be added to them.
  • Cosmetic gels are mostly transparent (transparent) or translucent (translucent) preparations. In order to make these products visually more attractive to the consumer, they can be colored.
  • HydrokoUoids also called thickeners or gel formers
  • thickeners or gel formers are added to the preparations so that the effect substances in a gel formulation remain stationary and do not sink to the bottom or in any way make other unpleasant migrations in the formulations.
  • HydrokoUoids are macromolecules that have a largely linear shape and have intermolecular interaction forces that enable secondary and main valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a network-like structure. Some of them are water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water.
  • Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, the common feature of which is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked.
  • the Hydrophilic groups can be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:
  • the group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocoids can be divided as follows into: organic, natural compounds, such as agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth,
  • Conventional glitter fabrics such as those described in DE 198 34 946, generally consist of small particles containing metal salts. These particles have the disadvantage that they release, especially in water-containing media
  • Tilt metal ions into the cosmetic preparation are particularly in cosmetic, surfactant-containing cleaning formulations such as shower gels or shampoos
  • the released metal ions in particular iron or copper ions, have the major disadvantage that they can be found in the Formulations of existing polymeric hydrocoids decompose catalytically, causing the gel structure of the preparation to collapse over time.
  • the released metal ions and the decomposition of the hydrocoids also discolor the preparation and the glitter substances it contains.
  • the shelf life of cosmetics containing glitter, which contain hydrocoids, is therefore generally limited.
  • complexing agents are added to the preparations, which are intended to complex released metal ions.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • HOEDTA hydroxyethylenediaminotriesacetic acid
  • DPTA diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid
  • CDTA Tetrasodium minodisuccinate and / or trisodium ethlenediamine disuccinate added.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • the complexing agents are only used in extremely small quantities in cosmetics, but in individual cases they can cause allergic or hypersensitive reactions (e.g. skin irritation). Therefore, their concentration in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations should be kept as low as possible or, ideally, should not be used at all.
  • the object of the present invention to eliminate or at least alleviate the shortcomings of the prior art and to develop cosmetics containing glitter which are stable in the long term.
  • the preparations should be as possible get along with a small amount of complexing agents or contain no complexing agents.
  • a particular problem with tanning is the uneven brown coloring of the skin.
  • the individual skin areas are exposed to the sun to different degrees and form different amounts of melanin. Skin areas that are rarely exposed to sunlight hardly tan. Sun tanning therefore results in an uneven and often unaesthetic tanning of the skin.
  • a cosmetic preparation comprising a) one or more glitter substances based on one or more organic polymers which are essentially free of metal salts b) one or more hydrocoids, in addition to any other cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives ,
  • the phrase “essentially free of metal salts” according to the invention means that the concentration of metal salts in the glitter fabrics is less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, based on the weight of the glitter fabrics.
  • WO 98/52535 and 99/24001 describe skin care products containing pigments, these documents could not be the route to the present invention point, since only metal-containing substances are used as coloring pigment in these documents. All comparable skin care products disclosed so far lack long-term stable properties since, because of the catalytic decomposition of the stabilizing polymer bodies, they do not permit use as a cosmetic. In addition, unstable, pigment-containing products also have an unattractive appearance on the skin. After applying the cream, the skin looks lighter or darker than the neighboring areas.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains one or more glitter substances based on one or more organic polymers in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 1.5% by weight contains very particularly advantageously in an amount of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparation has one or more hydrocoids in a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.1 to 7% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration from 0.3 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the glitter fabrics according to the invention have a core made of organic polymers.
  • the glitter substances according to the invention consist particularly advantageously of acrylate copolymers, polybutylene terephthalates, ethylene / vinyl acetate copolymers and / or polyethylene naphthalates.
  • So-called mica are preferably used, which are referred to according to the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients (INCI) as acrylate copolymer, polybutylene terephthalate, ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer, acrylate copolymer and polyethylene naphthalate.
  • Preferred mica according to the invention are, for example, the products available from 3M TM under the trade names 3M TM Highly Reflective Visible Mirror Glitter and 3 / TColored Mirror Glitter, and the products available from Eckart America LP under the trade names Glimmer-Sparkles.
  • glitter pigments made from aluminum foils coated with polymers and free from colored metal salts can advantageously be used.
  • Aluminum is protected from oxidation by coating so that no metal ions can be released.
  • Glitter preferred according to the invention are, for example, the products available from Eckart America LP under the trade names non-tamish-sparkles.
  • HydrokoUoids which are advantageous according to the invention are agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum, arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose derivatives, polysaccharides, polyacrylics - And polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, zeolites, silicas are used.
  • HydrokoUoids preferred according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the
  • R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methyl celluloses and which, in addition to a dominant content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups.
  • (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses are particularly preferred, for example those sold under the trade name Methocel E4M by Dow Chemical Comp. available.
  • sodium carboxymethyl cellulose the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH2-COONa.
  • Particularly preferred is the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also known as cellulose gum.
  • xanthan CAS No. 11138-66-2
  • xanthan gum which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is generally formed from corn sugar by fermentation and is isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 * 106 to 24x106.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain with ⁇ -1,4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains.
  • the structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • Xanthan is the name for the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15 106.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain with ⁇ -1,4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains.
  • the structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • the number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthane.
  • Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on the carbohydrate used. Yields of 25-30 g / l are achieved. The work-up takes place after killing the culture by precipitation with z.
  • An advantageous gelling agent in the sense of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming extract similar to agar from northern Atlantic, belonging to the floridae red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).
  • carrageen is often used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract from it.
  • the carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulfate content of approx. 25%.
  • Carrageenan which is very easily soluble in warm water; a thixotropic gel forms on cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%. The firmness of the gel is brought about by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. A distinction is made with carrageenan.
  • the gel-forming ⁇ -fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1, 3 and 1,4 positions (agar contains, on the other hand, 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -L-galactose).
  • the non-gelling ⁇ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues u. Easily soluble in cold water.
  • the i-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble as well as gel-forming.
  • Other types of carrageenan are also designated with Greek letters: ⁇ , ß, ⁇ , ⁇ , v, ⁇ , ⁇ , co, ⁇ .
  • the type of cations present (K +, NH4 +, Na +, Mg2 +, Ca2 +) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.
  • Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention.
  • Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those which are selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of NOVEON Inc.).
  • the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:
  • R ' represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.
  • acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are sold under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984, Aqua SF-1 by NOVEON Inc. or as Aculyn® 33 by International Specialty Products Corp. are available.
  • neutralized or partially neutralized polyacrylates e.g. Carbopole from Noveon.
  • the total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen to be less than 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the content of one or more polyacrylates in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsion is in the range from 0.1 to 8% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight. is selected, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more surfactants.
  • surfactants According to the invention, both anionic, cationic, nonionic and zwitterionic surfactants can advantageously be used.
  • wash-active anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are acylamino acids and their salts, such as ⁇ acylglutamates, in particular sodium acylglutamate
  • ⁇ sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium and sodium,
  • Sulfonic acids and their salts such as ⁇ acyl isethionates, for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate, Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate and derivatives,
  • ⁇ acyl isethionates for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, disodium
  • sulfuric acid esters such as
  • Alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C 12 . 13 pareth sulfate,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Advantageous wash-active cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are quaternary surfactants.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups.
  • alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultain are advantageous.
  • Acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamines for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate,
  • alkanolamides such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA
  • esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
  • ⁇ ethers for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated poly- siloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside,
  • ⁇ taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • ⁇ ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate, sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate
  • organophosphate and salts such as DEA oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate, ⁇ Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C ⁇ . 2 14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate and N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-hydroxyethylglycinate sodium salts and their derivatives.
  • non-ionic surfactants are alcohols.
  • glutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoyiaspartat and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate
  • carboxylic acids and derivatives such as
  • ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
  • wash-active surfactant or surfactants from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35.
  • Surfactant combinations of alkyl ether sulfates with amphoteric cosurfactants are preferred according to the invention, a surfactant combination of lauryl ether sulfate with cocoamidopropyl betaine or cocoamphoacetate being particularly preferred.
  • the content of one or more detergent surfactants in the cosmetic preparation is in the range from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 10 to 20 % By weight is selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain polysorbates.
  • Polysorbates' represents a class of compounds from the sorbitan, a sorbitol made by cleavage of two equivalents of water recovered furan derivative itself.
  • the hydroxyl groups of sorbitan are etherified with polyethylene glycols, the ends of which may be esterified with fatty acids. They can be generalized by the formula
  • Ri. R2, R3 H, fatty acid residue.
  • these are advantageously used in a concentration of 0.1 to 5% by weight and in particular in a concentration of 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, individually or as a mixture of several polysorbates.
  • the cosmetic preparation additionally contains one or more oil phases in addition to one or more water phases and is present, for example, in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions.
  • Such formulations can preferably also be a microemulsion (e.g. a PIT emulsion), a solid emulsions (ie an emulsion which is stabilized by solids, e.g. a Pickering emulsion), with transparent or translucent microemulsions are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the preparation according to the invention can also contain, in addition to water, other ingredients, for example alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, as well as low carbon number alcohols, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol and glycerin.
  • other ingredients for example alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, mono
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain moisturizing or moisturizing agents (so-called moisturizers).
  • moisturizing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride Gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
  • hyaluronic acid chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide
  • chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B.
  • Fucogel®1000 is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
  • starch and starch derivatives such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like
  • pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.
  • Aerosile ® CAS No. 7631-86-9
  • antioxidants are generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose. It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.
  • active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as.
  • Recipes according to the invention which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • skin aging such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiec
  • compositions according to the invention include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (e.g. hydrocortisone) as well as plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root.
  • glucocorticoids e.g. hydrocortisone
  • plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root.
  • the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageous, for example are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B.
  • cocoglyceride olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
  • oil component (s) from the group isoeikosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides (eg Myritol® C 12 from Henkel) 13- alkyl lactate, di-C 12-13- alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexa- caprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C 12 ⁇ 5 -alkyl or consists entirely of this.
  • Advantageous oil components are also z.
  • the oil phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squal . s, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane.
  • non-polar oils for example those selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squal .
  • polyolefins polyolefins
  • hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane.
  • polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated.
  • the silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • cyclomethicones are also advantageous, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimimethicones) and.
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the invention can also contain all water-soluble and / or oil-soluble UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substances approved according to the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • compositions optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, other plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, repellents , Self-tanners, depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other customary components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as emulsifiers, polymers, foam stabilizers and electrolytes.
  • additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, other plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, repellents , Self-tanners, depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other custom
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more preservatives according to the invention.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM Hydantoin, which is available, for example, under the trade name Glydant TM from Lonza), iodopropylbutyl carbamate (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker) , Parabens (ie, p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like.
  • formaldehyde releasers such as, for example, DMDM Hydantoin, which is available, for example, under the trade name Glydant TM from Lon
  • the preservation system according to the invention advantageously also includes preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • preservation aids such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • Preservatives or preservative additives customary in cosmetics such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynylbutylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinyl, are also advantageous in cosmetics - urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol.
  • preservatives are advantageous in a concentration of 2% by weight or less than 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight or less than 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 1% by weight or less than 1% by weight , each based on the total weight of the preparation in the composition which it had at the time of application to the substrate, contained in the preparation according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably have a water content of more than 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain one or more conditioners.
  • conditioners according to the invention are, for example, all compounds which are described in Section 4 below in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th edition, 2002) the keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin-Conditioning Agents, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Humactant, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Occlusive and Skin Protectans are all listed in the EP 0934956 (p.11-13) under water soluble conditioning agent and oil soluble conditioning agent.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more UV light protection filter substances.
  • All UV light protection filters that are approved for use in cosmetics according to the Cosmetics Ordinance can advantageously be used according to the invention.
  • these can be water-soluble, oil-soluble and or pigmentary light protection filters.
  • the use of polymers for the production of stable glitter-containing cosmetic preparations can advantageously contain one or more UV light protection filter substances.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention as a shampoo, shower gel, wash lotion and / or bath tub is according to the invention.
  • the present invention also relates to cleaning products based on emulsions. These are formulated in such a way that the emulsion is stabilized with emulsifiers and then a surfactant system is adapted. These preparations usually also contain hydrocoids for stabilization.
  • surfactant-containing emulsions which do not contain any emulsifier in the conventional sense and are stabilized by hydrocoids, preferably based on acrylate, are advantageous. These are, for example, preparations as disclosed in EP 00112547.
  • preparation according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention as a skin care product or decorative cosmetic.

Abstract

Disclosed is a cosmetic preparation containing a) one or several glittering substances based on one or several organic polymers which are essentially free of metal salts, b) one or several hydrocolloids, and other optional cosmetic or dermatological agents, adjuvants, and additives.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg
Glitterstoffhaltiqe KosmetikaCosmetics containing glitter
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische Zubereitungen mit Glitterstoffen.The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with glitter substances.
Der Wunsch, schön und attraktiv auszusehen, ist von Natur aus im Menschen verwurzelt. Auch wenn das Schönheitsideal im Laufe der Zeit Wandlungen erfahren hat, so ist das Streben nach einem makellosen Äußeren, immer das Ziel der Menschen gewesen. Einen wesentlichen Anteil an einem schönen und attraktiven Äußeren hat dabei der Zustand und das Aussehen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde.The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in people. Even if the ideal of beauty has changed over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been the goal of people. The condition and appearance of the skin and the appendages of the skin play an important part in creating a beautiful and attractive exterior.
Damit die Haut und die Hautanhangsgebilde, hierzu zählen vor allem die Haare und Nägel, ihre biologischen Funktionen im vollen Umfang erfüllen können, bedürfen sie der regelmäßigen Reinigung und Pflege sowie dem Schutz vor UV-Strahlung. Die Reinigung dient dabei der Entfernung von Schmutz, Schweiß und Resten abgestorbener Körperzellen, die einen idealen Nährboden für Krankheitserreger und Parasiten aller Art bilden. Kosmetische Reinigungsprodukte werden in der Regel in Form von Gelen, Lotionen und Feststoffen (Seifenstücke, Waschsynthets) angeboten. Hautpflegeprodukte, in der Regel Cremes, Salben oder Lotionen, dienen meist der Befeuchtung und Rückfettung der Haut. Denn die Aufgabe der Hautpflege ist es in der Regel, den durch das tägliche Waschen verursachten Fett- und Wasserverlust der Haut auszugleichen. Dies ist gerade dann wichtig, wenn das natürliche Regenerationsvermögen nicht ausreicht. Außerdem sollen Hautpflegeprodukte vor Umwelteinflüssen, insbesondere vor Sonne und Wind, schützen und die Hautalterung verzögern. Häufig sind Hautpflegeprodukten Wirkstoffe zugesetzt, welche die Haut regenerieren und beispielsweise ihre vorzeitige Alterung (z.B. das Entstehen von Fältchen, Falten) verhindern und vermindern sollen. Zum Schutz vor der schädlichen UV-Strahlung des Sonnenlichtes sind vielen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Produkten UV- Lichtschutzfilter zugesetzt.In order for the skin and the appendages, especially the hair and nails, to fully perform their biological functions, they need regular cleaning and care as well as protection against UV radiation. The cleaning serves to remove dirt, sweat and residues of dead body cells, which form an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Cosmetic cleaning products are usually offered in the form of gels, lotions and solids (bars of soap, washing synthets). Skin care products, usually creams, ointments or lotions, mostly serve to moisturize and regrease the skin. Because the job of skin care is usually to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging. Active ingredients are often added to skin care products to regenerate the skin and, for example, to prevent and reduce its premature aging (e.g. the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles). To protect against the harmful UV radiation from sunlight, UV cosmetic filters are added to many cosmetic and dermatological products.
Kosmetische Formulierungen stellen häufig äußerlich einheitliche, homogene Zubereitungen dar. Diese werden jedoch von den Verbrauchern zunehmend als eintönig und langweilig empfunden. Um die Zubereitungen für den Anwender attraktiver zu gestalten, können ihnen Färb- und Effektstoffe zugesetzt werden.Cosmetic formulations often represent externally uniform, homogeneous preparations. However, these are increasingly becoming monotonous by consumers and felt boring. In order to make the preparations more attractive to the user, coloring and effect substances can be added to them.
Kosmetische Gele beispielsweise sind meistens durchsichtige (transparente) bzw. durchscheinende (transluzente) Zubereitungen. Um diese Produkte für den Verbraucher optisch attraktiver ∑ugestalten, können sie eingefärbt werden.Cosmetic gels, for example, are mostly transparent (transparent) or translucent (translucent) preparations. In order to make these products visually more attractive to the consumer, they can be colored.
Produkten, die in der Regel in durchsichtigen Verpackungen angeboten werden, können durch eingearbeitete Farbpartikel, Gasbläschen, Wirkstoffkapseln, Glitterstoffe sowie andere größere Objekte (allg. Effektstoffe genannt), interessante optische Effekte verliehen werden. Insbesondere für Kinder und Jugendliche, welche die üblichen farblosen Reinigungsmittel unattraktiv und langweilig finden und Baden und Waschen häufig als überflüssig und lästig ansehen, sind derartige Formulierungen besonders attraktiv.Products, which are usually offered in transparent packaging, can be given interesting optical effects by incorporated color particles, gas bubbles, active ingredient capsules, glitter fabrics and other larger objects (generally called effect fabrics). Such formulations are particularly attractive for children and adolescents, who find the usual colorless cleaning agents unattractive and boring and often consider bathing and washing to be unnecessary and troublesome.
Damit die Effektstoffe in einer Gelformulierung ortsfest bleiben und nicht zu Boden sinken oder in irgendeiner Weise in der Formulierungen andere unliebsame Wanderungen vornehmen, werden den Zubereitungen HydrokoUoide (auch Verdicker oder Gelbildner genannt) zugefügt.HydrokoUoids (also called thickeners or gel formers) are added to the preparations so that the effect substances in a gel formulation remain stationary and do not sink to the bottom or in any way make other unpleasant migrations in the formulations.
„Hydrokolloid" ist die technologische Kurzbezeichnung für die an sich richtigere Bezeichnung „hydrophiles Kolloid". HydrokoUoide sind Makromoleküle, die eine weitgehend lineare Gestalt haben und über intermolekulare Wechselwirkungskräfte verfügen, die Neben- und Hauptvalenzbindungen zwischen den einzelnen Molekülen und damit die Ausbildung eines netzartigen Gebildes ermöglichen. Sie sind teilweise wasserlösliche natürliche oder synthetische Polymere, die in wässrigen Systemen Gele oder viskose Lösungen bilden. Sie erhöhen die Viskosität des Wassers, indem sie entweder Wassermoleküle binden (Hydratation) oder aber das Wasser in ihre unter sich verflochtenen Makromoleküle aufnehmen und einhüllen, wobei sie gleichzeitig die Beweglichkeit des Wassers einschränken. Solche wasserlöslichen Polymere stellen eine große Gruppe chemisch sehr unterschiedlicher natürlicher und synthetischer Polymere dar, deren gemeinsames Merkmal ihre Löslichkeit in Wasser bzw. wässrigen Medien ist. Voraussetzung dafür ist, daß diese Polymere über eine für die Wasserlöslichkeit ausreichende Anzahl an hydrophilen Gruppen besitzen und nicht zu stark vernetzt sind. Die hydrophilen Gruppen können nichtionischer, anionischer oder kationischer Natur sein, beispielsweise wie folgt:"Hydrocolloid" is the technological short name for the more correct term "hydrophilic colloid". HydrokoUoids are macromolecules that have a largely linear shape and have intermolecular interaction forces that enable secondary and main valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a network-like structure. Some of them are water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, the common feature of which is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked. The Hydrophilic groups can be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:
NH2 — COOH — COO' M+ -NR2 NH 2 - COOH - COO ' M + -NR 2
NH-R O — SO3 " M+ (CH2)n NH-R O - SO 3 " M + (CH 2 ) n
1!1!
OH — NH-C-NH2 — POf M2* SO3 " OH - NH-C-NH 2 - POf M 2 * SO 3 "
SH NH — NH3 X" + II — NR2 SH NH - NH 3 X " + II - NR 2
O— — NH-C-NH2 — NR2H x " 1O— - NH-C-NH 2 - NR 2 H x " 1
I + (CH2)n I + (CH 2 ) n
-N— — HN /N. ^ .NH2 — R3 X 1 COO " — PR3 x " -N— - HN / N. ^ .NH 2 - R 3 X 1 COO " - PR 3 x "
NH2 O " +/ — CH=NNH 2 O " + / - CH = N
OO
Die Gruppe der kosmetisch und dermatologisch relevanten HydrokoUoide lässt sich wie folgt einteilen in: organische, natürliche Verbindungen, wie beispielsweise Agar-Agar, Carrageen, Tragant,The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocoids can be divided as follows into: organic, natural compounds, such as agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth,
Gummi arabicum, Alginate, Pektine, Polyosen, Guar-Mehl, Johannisbrotbaumkernmehl,Gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum,
Stärke, Dextrine, Gelatine, Casein, organische, abgewandelte Naturstoffe, wie z. B. Carboxymethylcellulose und andere Cel- luloseether, Hydroxyethyl- und -propylcellulose und dergleichen, organische, vollsynthetische Verbindungen, wie z. B. Polyacryl- und Polymethacryl-Ver- bindungen, Vinylpolymere, Polycarbonsäuren, Polyether, Polyimine, Polyamide, anorganische Verbindungen, wie z. B. Polykieselsäuren, Tonmineralien wie Montmorillo- nite, Zeolithe, Kieselsäuren.Starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, organic, modified natural substances such as B. carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and the like, organic, fully synthetic compounds such. B. polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, inorganic compounds, such as. B. polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas.
Herkömmliche Glitterstoffe, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE 198 34 946 beschrieben sind, bestehen in der Regel aus metallsalzhaltigen Kleinpartikeln. Diese Partikel haben den Nachteil, dass sie, insbesondere in wasserhaltigen Medien zur Abgabe vonConventional glitter fabrics, such as those described in DE 198 34 946, generally consist of small particles containing metal salts. These particles have the disadvantage that they release, especially in water-containing media
Metallionen in die kosmetische Zubereitung neigen. Insbesondere in kosmetischen, tensidhaltigen Reinigungsrezepturen wie Duschgelen oder Shampoos stellt dieTilt metal ions into the cosmetic preparation. Particularly in cosmetic, surfactant-containing cleaning formulations such as shower gels or shampoos
Freisetzung von Metallionen ein Problem dar. Die freigesetzten Metallionen, insbesondere Eisen oder Kupferionen haben den großen Nachteil, dass sie die in den Formulierungen vorhandenen polymeren HydrokoUoide katalytisch zersetzen, wodurch die Gelstruktur der Zubereitung im Laufe der Zeit zusammenbricht. Femer führen die freigesetzten Metallionen sowie die Zersetzung der HydrokoUoide zu einer Verfärbung der Zubereitung sowie der in ihr enthaltenen Glitterstoffe. Die Haltbarkeit glitterstoffhaltiger Kosmetika, welche HydrokoUoide enthalten, ist also in der Regel begrenzt.Release of metal ions is a problem. The released metal ions, in particular iron or copper ions, have the major disadvantage that they can be found in the Formulations of existing polymeric hydrocoids decompose catalytically, causing the gel structure of the preparation to collapse over time. The released metal ions and the decomposition of the hydrocoids also discolor the preparation and the glitter substances it contains. The shelf life of cosmetics containing glitter, which contain hydrocoids, is therefore generally limited.
Um die Haltbarkeit der herkömmlichen glitterstoffhaltigen Kosmetika zumindest über einen begrenzten Zeitraum gewährleisten zu können, werden den Zubereitungen Komplexbildner zugesetzt, welche freigesetzte Metallionen komplexieren sollen. Meist werden Ethylendiamintetraessigsäure (EDTA) und deren Anionen, Nitrilotriessigsäure (NTA) und deren Anionen, Hydroxyethylendiaminotriessigsäure (HOEDTA) und deren Anionen, Diethylenaminopentaessigsäure (DPTA) und deren Anionen, trans-1 ,2-Diamino- cyclohexantetraessigsäure (CDTA) und deren Anionen, Tetranatriumminodisuccinat und/oder Trinatriumetylenediamindisuccinat zugesetzt. Diese Verbindungen sind aus physiologischer und allergologischer Sicht jedoch nicht ganz unbedenklich. So wird beispielsweise in den Sicherheitsdatenblättern von Ethylendiamintetraessigsäure (EDTA) davor gewarnt, dass die Verbindung die Augen, Atmungsorgane und die Haut reizen kann (R-Sätze: R 36/37/38). Bei Nitrilotriessigsäure (NTA) wird vor dem Verschlucken und vor irreversiblen Schäden gewarnt (R: 22-40). Zwar werden die Komplexbildner in den Kosmetika nur in äußerst geringen Mengen eingesetzt, doch können sie im Einzelfalle allergische oder auf Überempfindlichkeit des Anwenders beruhende Reaktionen (z.B. Hautreizungen) hervorrufen. Deshalb sollte ihre Konzentration in kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen möglichst niedrig gehalten oder im Idealfalle ganz auf ihren Einsatz verzichtet werden.In order to be able to guarantee the shelf life of the conventional glitter-containing cosmetics at least for a limited period of time, complexing agents are added to the preparations, which are intended to complex released metal ions. Mostly ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriesacetic acid (HOEDTA) and its anions, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and its anions, trans-1, 2-diamino-cyclohexantetraacetic acid and (CDTA) Tetrasodium minodisuccinate and / or trisodium ethlenediamine disuccinate added. From a physiological and allergological point of view, however, these compounds are not entirely harmless. For example, the safety data sheets for ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) warn that the compound can irritate the eyes, respiratory system and skin (R phrases: R 36/37/38). In the case of nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), warnings are given about ingestion and irreversible damage (R: 22-40). The complexing agents are only used in extremely small quantities in cosmetics, but in individual cases they can cause allergic or hypersensitive reactions (e.g. skin irritation). Therefore, their concentration in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations should be kept as low as possible or, ideally, should not be used at all.
Da ferner die Komplexierung der Metallionen eine Gleichgewichtsreaktion darstellt, gelingt mit Hilfe von Komplexierem immer nur eine teilweise Maskierung der Metallionen und damit nur eine begrenzte Stabilisierung der Zubereitungen.Furthermore, since the complexation of the metal ions represents an equilibrium reaction, only a partial masking of the metal ions and thus only a limited stabilization of the preparations is possible with the aid of complexers.
Es war daher die Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung die Mängel des Standes der Technik zu beseitigen oder zumindest zu lindern und langzeitstabile, glitterstoffhaltige Kosmetika zu entwickeln. Darüber hinaus sollten die Zubereitungen mit einer möglichst geringen Menge an Komplexbildnern auskommen beziehungsweise keine Komplexbildner enthalten.It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate or at least alleviate the shortcomings of the prior art and to develop cosmetics containing glitter which are stable in the long term. In addition, the preparations should be as possible get along with a small amount of complexing agents or contain no complexing agents.
Ein besonderes Problem der Sonnenbräunung besteht in der ungleichmäßigen Braunfärbung der Haut. Die einzelnen Hautpartien sind dem Sonnenlicht unterschiedlich stark ausgesetzt und bilden unterschiedliche Mengen an Melanin. Insbesondere Hautpartien, die nur selten dem Sonnenlicht ausgesetzt sind bräunen kaum. Es kommt daher bei der Sonnenbräunung zu einer ungleichmäßigen und häufig unästhetischen Bräunung der Haut.A particular problem with tanning is the uneven brown coloring of the skin. The individual skin areas are exposed to the sun to different degrees and form different amounts of melanin. Skin areas that are rarely exposed to sunlight hardly tan. Sun tanning therefore results in an uneven and often unaesthetic tanning of the skin.
Bei vielen Menschen in sonnenreichen Gebieten mit von Natur aus dunklerer Haut ist hingegen eine vornehme Blässe das Schönheitsideal. Diese Menschen versuchen in der Regel die Haut vor der Sonnenstrahlung zu schützen. Doch auch bei ihnen kommt es aufgrund einer unterschiedlichen Belastung der Haut mit UV-Strahlung zu einer unterschiedlich stark Hautpigmentierung.For many people in sun-drenched areas with naturally darker skin, however, an elegant pallor is the ideal of beauty. These people usually try to protect the skin from the sun's rays. But they also have different levels of skin pigmentation due to a different exposure of the skin to UV radiation.
Es bestand daher die Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung, in einer besonderenIt was therefore the object of the present invention, in particular
Ausführungsform ein Hautpflegeprodukt mit sehr guter Pigmentstabilität zu entwickeln, das der Haut ein gleichmäßig gesundes Aussehen verleiht.Embodiment to develop a skin care product with very good pigment stability, which gives the skin a uniformly healthy appearance.
Überraschend gelöst werden die Aufgaben durch eine kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend a) ein oder mehrere Glitterstoffe auf der Basis ein oder mehrerer organischer Polymere, die im wesentlichen frei von Metallsaizen sind b) ein oder mehrere HydrokoUoide, neben gegebenenfalls weiteren kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Wirk-, Hilfsund Zusatzstoffen.The objects are surprisingly achieved by a cosmetic preparation comprising a) one or more glitter substances based on one or more organic polymers which are essentially free of metal salts b) one or more hydrocoids, in addition to any other cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives ,
Dabei bedeutet die Formulierung „im wesentlichen frei von Metallsalzen" erfindungsgemäß, dass die Konzentration an Metallsalzen in den Glitterstoffen kleiner gleich 0,01 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Glitterstoffe beträgt.The phrase “essentially free of metal salts” according to the invention means that the concentration of metal salts in the glitter fabrics is less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, based on the weight of the glitter fabrics.
Zwar beschreiben die WO 98/52535 und 99/24001 Hautpflegeprodukte mit einem Gehalt an Pigmenten, doch konnten diese Schriften nicht den Weg zur vorliegenden Erfindung weisen, da in diesen Schriften nur metallhaltige Substanzen als färbendes Pigment verwandt. Allen bisher offenbarten vergleichbaren Hautpflegeprodukten mangelt es an langzeitstabilen Eigenschaften, da sie aufgrund der katalytischen Zersetzung der stabilisierenden Polymerkörper eine Anwendung als Kosmetikum nicht zulassen. Darüber hinaus haben instabile, pigmenthaltige Produkte auch ein unattraktives Erscheinungsbild auf der Haut. Die Haut sieht nach dem Eincremen partiell heller oder dunkler aus, als die nachbarschaftlichen Areale.Although WO 98/52535 and 99/24001 describe skin care products containing pigments, these documents could not be the route to the present invention point, since only metal-containing substances are used as coloring pigment in these documents. All comparable skin care products disclosed so far lack long-term stable properties since, because of the catalytic decomposition of the stabilizing polymer bodies, they do not permit use as a cosmetic. In addition, unstable, pigment-containing products also have an unattractive appearance on the skin. After applying the cream, the skin looks lighter or darker than the neighboring areas.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung ein oder mehrere Glitterstoffe auf der Basis ein oder mehrerer organischer Polymere in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 5 Gewichts-%, bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 1 ,5 Gewichts- % und ganz besonders vorteilhaft in einer Menge von 0,05 bis 1 Gewichts-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung enthält.It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains one or more glitter substances based on one or more organic polymers in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 1.5% by weight contains very particularly advantageously in an amount of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
Auch ist es vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, wenn die Zubereitung ein oder mehrere HydrokoUoide in einer Konzentration von 0,01 bis 10 Gewichts-%, bevorzugt in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 7 Gewichts-% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in einer Konzentration von 0,3 bis 5 Gewichts-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung enthält.It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the preparation has one or more hydrocoids in a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.1 to 7% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration from 0.3 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft weisen die erfindungsgemäßen Glitterstoffe einen Kern aus organischen Polymeren auf. Erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft bestehen die erfindungsgemäßen Glitterstoffe aus Acrylat-Copόlymeren, Poiybutylenterephthalaten, Ethylen/Vinylacetat-Copolymeren und/oder Polyethylennaphthalaten. Bevorzugt werden dabei sogenannte Glimmer eingesetzt welche nach der internationalen Nomenklatur für kosmetische Inhaltsstoffe (INCI) als Acrylates Copolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer, Acrylate Copolymers und Polyethylene Naphthalate bezeichnet werden. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Glimmer sind beispielsweise bei der 3M unter den Handelsnamen 3M Highly Reflective Visible Mirror Glitter und 3 /TColored Mirror Glitter erhältlichen Produkte sowie die von der Firma Eckart America L.P. unter den Handelsnamen Glimmer-Sparkles erhältlichen Produkte.Advantageously according to the invention, the glitter fabrics according to the invention have a core made of organic polymers. According to the invention, the glitter substances according to the invention consist particularly advantageously of acrylate copolymers, polybutylene terephthalates, ethylene / vinyl acetate copolymers and / or polyethylene naphthalates. So-called mica are preferably used, which are referred to according to the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients (INCI) as acrylate copolymer, polybutylene terephthalate, ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer, acrylate copolymer and polyethylene naphthalate. Preferred mica according to the invention are, for example, the products available from 3M under the trade names 3M Highly Reflective Visible Mirror Glitter and 3 / TColored Mirror Glitter, and the products available from Eckart America LP under the trade names Glimmer-Sparkles.
Außerdem können vorteilhaft Glitterpigmente aus mit Polymeren beschichteten Aluminiumfolien, die frei von farbigen Metallsalzen sind eingesetzt werden. Hier wird das Aluminium durch Beschichtung vor Oxidation geschützt, so dass keine Metallionen freigesetzt werden können. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Glitter sind beispielsweise die von der Firma Eckart America L.P. unter den Handelsnamen non-tamish-sparkles erhältliche Produkte.In addition, glitter pigments made from aluminum foils coated with polymers and free from colored metal salts can advantageously be used. Here it is Aluminum is protected from oxidation by coating so that no metal ions can be released. Glitter preferred according to the invention are, for example, the products available from Eckart America LP under the trade names non-tamish-sparkles.
Als erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte HydrokoUoide werden Agar-Agar, Carrageen, Tragant, Gummi, arabicum, Alginate, Pektine, Polyosen, Guar-Mehl, Johannisbrotbaumkernmehl, Stärke, Dextrine, Gelatine, Casein, Celluloseether, Hydroxyethyl- und -propyl- cellulosederivate, Polysaccharide, Polyacryl- und Polymethacryl-Verbindungen, Vinylpolymere, Polycarbonsäuren, Polyether, Polyimine, Polyamide, Polykieselsäuren, Tonmineralien, Zeolithe, Kieselsäuren eingesetzt.HydrokoUoids which are advantageous according to the invention are agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum, arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose derivatives, polysaccharides, polyacrylics - And polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, zeolites, silicas are used.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte HydrokoUoide sind beispielsweise Methylcellulosen, als welche die Methylether der Cellulose bezeichnet werden. Sie zeichnen sich durch dieHydrokoUoids preferred according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the
Figure imgf000008_0001
in der R ein Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe darstellen kann.
Figure imgf000008_0001
in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
Insbesondere vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind die -im allgemeinen ebenfalls als Methylcellulosen bezeichneten Cellulosemischether, die neben einem dominierenden Gehalt an Methyl- zusätzlich 2-Hydroxyethyl-, 2-Hydroxypropyl- oder 2-Hydro- xybutyl-Gruppen enthalten. Besonders bevorzugt sind (Hydroxypropyl)methylcellulosen, beispielsweise die unter der Handelsbezeichnung Methocel E4M bei der Dow Chemical Comp. erhältlichen.Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the cellulose mixed ethers, which are generally also referred to as methyl celluloses and which, in addition to a dominant content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses are particularly preferred, for example those sold under the trade name Methocel E4M by Dow Chemical Comp. available.
Erfindungsgemäß ferner vorteilhaft ist Natriumcarboxymethylcellulose, das Natrium-Salz des Glykolsäureethers der Cellulose, für welches R in Strukturformel I ein Wasserstoff und/oder CH2-COONa darstellen kann. Besonders bevorzugt ist die unter der Handelsbezeichnung Natrosol Plus 330 CS bei Aqualon erhältliche, auch als Cellulose Gum be- zeichnete Natriumcarboxymethylcellulose. Bevorzugt im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ferner Xanthan (CAS-Nr. 11138-66-2), auch Xanthan Gummi genannt, welches ein anionisches Heteropolysaccharid ist, das in der Regel durch Fermentation aus Maiszucker gebildet und als Kaliumsalz isoliert wird. Es wird von Xanthomonas campestris und einigen anderen Spezies unter aeroben , Bedingungen mit einem Molekulargewicht von 2*106 bis 24x106 produziert. Xanthan wird aus einer Kette mit ß-1,4-gebundener Glucose (Cellulose) mit Seitenketten gebildet. Die Struktur der Untergruppen besteht aus Glucose, Mannose, Glucuronsäure, Acetat und Pyruvat. Xanthan ist die Bezeichnung für das erste mikrobielle anionische Heteropolysaccharid. Es wird von Xanthomonas campestris und einigen anderen Spezies unter aeroben Bedingungen mit einem Molekulargewicht von 2-15 106 produziert. Xanthan wird aus einer Kette mit ß-1,4-gebundener Glucose (Cellulose) mit Seitenketten gebildet. Die Struktur der Untergruppen besteht aus Glucose, Mannose, Glucuronsäure, Acetat und Pyruvat. Die Anzahl der Pyruvat-Einheiten bestimmt die Viskosität des Xanthans. Xanthan wird in zweitägigen Batch-Kulturen mit einer Ausbeute von 70-90 %, bezogen auf eingesetztes Kohlenhydrat, produziert. Dabei werden Ausbeuten von 25-30 g/l erreicht. Die Aufarbeitung erfolgt nach Abtöten der Kultur durch Fällung mit z. B. 2- Propanol. Xanthan wird anschließend getrocknet und gemahlen.Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH2-COONa. Particularly preferred is the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also known as cellulose gum. For the purposes of the present invention, preference is also given to xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also known as xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is generally formed from corn sugar by fermentation and is isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 * 106 to 24x106. Xanthan is formed from a chain with β-1,4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name for the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15 106. Xanthan is formed from a chain with β-1,4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. The number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthane. Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on the carbohydrate used. Yields of 25-30 g / l are achieved. The work-up takes place after killing the culture by precipitation with z. B. 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.
Vorteilhafter Gelbildner im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ferner Carrageen, ein gelbildender und ähnlich wie Agar aufgebauter Extrakt aus nordatlant., zu den Florideen zählenden Rotalgen (Chondrus crispus u. Gigartina stellata).An advantageous gelling agent in the sense of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming extract similar to agar from northern Atlantic, belonging to the floridae red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).
Häufig wird die Bezeichnung Carrageen für das getrocknete Algenprodukt und Carrageenan für den Extrakt aus diesem verwendet. Das aus dem Heißwasserextrakt der Algen ausgefällte Carrageen ist ein farbloses bis sandfarbenes Pulver mit einem Molekulargewichtsbereich von 100 000-800 000 und einem Sulfat-Gehalt von ca. 25 %. Carrageen, das in warmem Wasser sehr leicht löslich ist; beim Abkühlen bildet sich ein thixotropes Gel, selbst wenn der Wassergehalt 95-98 % beträgt. Die Festigkeit des Gels wird durch die Doppelhelix-Struktur des Carrageens bewirkt . Beim Carrageenan unterscheidet man. drei Hauptbestandteile: Die gelbildende κ-Fraktion besteht aus D- Galactose-4-sulfat und 3,6-Anhydro-α-D-galactose, die abwechselnd in 1 ,3- und 1,4- Stellung glykosidisch verbunden sind (Agar enthält demgegenüber 3,6-Anhydro-α-L- galactose). Die nicht gelierende λ-Fraktion ist aus 1,3-glykosidisch verknüpften D- Galactose-2-sulfat und 1 ,4-verbundenen D-Galactose-2,6-disulfat-Resten zusammenge- setzt u. in kaltem Wasser leicht löslich. Das aus D-Galactose-4-sulfat in 1,3-Bindung und 3,6-Anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfat in 1,4-Bindung aufgebaute i-Carrageenan ist sowohl wasserlöslich als auch gelbildend. Weitere Carrageen-Typen werden ebenfalls mit griechischen Buchstaben bezeichnet: α, ß, γ, μ, v, ξ, π, co, χ. Auch die Art vorhandener Kationen (K+, NH4+, Na+, Mg2+, Ca2+) beeinflusst die Löslichkeit der Carrageene.The term carrageen is often used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract from it. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulfate content of approx. 25%. Carrageenan, which is very easily soluble in warm water; a thixotropic gel forms on cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%. The firmness of the gel is brought about by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. A distinction is made with carrageenan. three main components: The gel-forming κ-fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1, 3 and 1,4 positions (agar contains, on the other hand, 3,6-anhydro-α-L-galactose). The non-gelling λ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues u. Easily soluble in cold water. The i-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble as well as gel-forming. Other types of carrageenan are also designated with Greek letters: α, ß, γ, μ, v, ξ, π, co, χ. The type of cations present (K +, NH4 +, Na +, Mg2 +, Ca2 +) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.
Polyacrylate sind ebenfalls vorteilhaft im sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwendende Gelatoren. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Polyacrylate sind Acrylat- Alkylacrylat-Copolymere, insbesondere solche, die aus der Gruppe der sogenannten Carbomere oder Carbopole (Carbopol® ist eigentlich eine eingetragene Marke der NOVEON Inc.) gewählt werden. Insbesondere zeichnen sich das oder die erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaften Acrylat-Alkylacrylat-Copolymere durch die folgende Struktur aus:Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention. Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those which are selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of NOVEON Inc.). In particular, the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:
Figure imgf000010_0001
Figure imgf000010_0001
Darin stellen R' einen langkettigen Alkylrest und x und y Zahlen dar, welche den jeweiligen stöchiometrischen Anteil der jeweiligen Comonomere symbolisieren.R 'represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Acrylat-Copolymere und/oder Acrylat-Alkyl- acrylat-Copolymere, welche unter den Handelbezeichnungen Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 und Carbopol® 5984, Aqua SF-1 von der NOVEON Inc. bzw. als Aculyn® 33 von International Specialty Products Corp. erhältlich sind.According to the invention, particular preference is given to acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are sold under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984, Aqua SF-1 by NOVEON Inc. or as Aculyn® 33 by International Specialty Products Corp. are available.
Ferner vorteilhaft sind Copolymere aus CIO-30-Alkylacrylaten und einem oder mehreren Monomeren der Acrylsäure, der Methacrylsäure oder deren Ester, die kreuzvernetzt sind mit einem Allylether der Saccharose oder einem Allylether des Pentaerythrit.Also advantageous are copolymers of CIO-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are crosslinked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.
Vorteilhaft sind Verbindungen, die die INCI-Bezeichnung „Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acryla- te Crosspolymer" tragen. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Pemulen TR1 und Pemulen TR2 bei der NOVEON Inc. erhältlichen. Vorteilhaft sind ferner Verbindungen, die die INCI-Bezeichnung „acrylates/C 12-24 pareth- 25 acrylate copolymer" (unter der Handelsbezeichnungen Synthalen® W2000 bei der 3V Inc. erhältlich), die die INCI-Bezeichnung „acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer" (unter der Handelsbezeichnungen Aculyn® 22 bei der International Specialty Products Corp. erhältlich), die die INCI-Bezeichnung „acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer" (unter der Handelsbezeichnungen Structure 2001® bei der National Starch erhältlich), die die INCI-Bezeichnung „acrylates/aminoacrylates/C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer" (unter der Handelsbezeichnungen Structure Plus® bei der National Starch erhältlich) und ähnliche Polymere.Compounds which have the INCI name “Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylic Crosspolymer” are advantageous. Particularly advantageous are those available under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 from NOVEON Inc. Also advantageous are compounds which have the INCI name "acrylates / C 12-24 pareth-25 acrylate copolymer" (available under the trade names Synthalen® W2000 from 3V Inc.) and the INCI name "acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate" copolymer "(available under the trade names Aculyn® 22 from International Specialty Products Corp.) which has the INCI name" acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer "(available under the trade names Structure 2001® from National Starch), which the INCI - Designation "acrylates / aminoacrylates / C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer" (available under the trade names Structure Plus® from National Starch) and similar polymers.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist es insbesondere, neutralisierte oder teilneutralisierte Polyacrylate (z.B. Carbopole der Firma Noveon) einzusetzen.According to the invention, it is particularly preferred to use neutralized or partially neutralized polyacrylates (e.g. Carbopole from Noveon).
Die Gesamtmenge an einem oder mehreren Hydrokolloiden wird in den fertigen kosmeti- sehen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen vorteilhaft kleiner als 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zwischen 0,1 und 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, gewählt.The total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen to be less than 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Es ist vorteilhaft im Sinn der vorliegenden Erfindung, wenn der Gehalt an einem oder mehreren Polyacrylaten in der kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Reinigungsemulsion aus dem Bereich von 0,1 bis 8 Gew.-%, ganz besonders vorteilhaft von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-% gewählt wird, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.In the sense of the present invention, it is advantageous if the content of one or more polyacrylates in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsion is in the range from 0.1 to 8% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight. is selected, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können vorteilhafter Weise ein oder mehrere Tenside enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft können sowohl anionische, kationische, nichtionische und zwitterionische Tenside eingesetzt werden.The preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more surfactants. According to the invention, both anionic, cationic, nonionic and zwitterionic surfactants can advantageously be used.
Vorteilhafte waschaktive anionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze, wie Acylglutamate, insbesondere NatriumacylglutamatAdvantageous wash-active anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are acylamino acids and their salts, such as acylglutamates, in particular sodium acylglutamate
Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-Iauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlau- roylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat, sarcosinates, roylsarcosinat for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium and sodium,
Sulfonsäuren und deren Salze, wie Acylisethionate, z.B. Natrium-/ Ammoniumcocoylisethionat, ■ Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfo- succinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido MEA- Sulfosuccinat, Dinatrium PEG-5 Laurylcitratsulfosuccinat und Derivate,Sulfonic acids and their salts, such as acyl isethionates, for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate, Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate and derivatives,
sowie Schwefelsäureester, wieas well as sulfuric acid esters, such as
■ Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA- Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C12.13 Parethsulfat,Alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C 12 . 13 pareth sulfate,
■ Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA- Laurylsulfat.■ Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
Vorteilhafte waschaktive kationische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind quaternäre Tenside. Quatemäre Tenside enthalten mindestens ein N-Atom, das mit 4 Alkyl- oder Arylgruppen kovalent verbunden ist. Vorteilhaft sind beispielsweise Alkylbetain, Alkylamidopropylbetain und Alkylamidopropylhydroxysultain.Advantageous wash-active cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are quaternary surfactants. Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. For example, alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultain are advantageous.
Vorteilhafte waschaktive amphotere Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sindAdvantageous wash-active amphoteric surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are
■ Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamine, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacyl- amphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropyl- sulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,Acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamines, for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate,
Vorteilhafte waschaktive nicht-ionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sindAdvantageous wash-active non-ionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are
Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/ DEA/ MIPA, alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,
Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen, esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte Poly- siloxane, propoxylierte POE Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, ethers, for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated poly- siloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside,
Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.Decylglycoside and cocoglycoside.
Weitere vorteilhafte anionische Tenside sindOther advantageous anionic surfactants are
Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat, Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13 Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylat, Natrium PEG-7-Olivenöl-Carboxylat taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate, sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate
Phosphorsäureester und Salze, wie beispielsweise DEA-Oleth-10 Phosphat und Dilaureth-4 Phosphat, ■ Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium Cι2.14 Olefinsulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat. organophosphate and salts, such as DEA oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate, ■ Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium Cι. 2 14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.
Weitere vorteilhafte amphotere Tenside sindOther advantageous amphoteric surfactants are
■ N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropion- säure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat und N- Kokosfettsäureamidoethyl-N-hydroxyethylglycinat Natriumsalze und deren Derivate.■ N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate and N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-hydroxyethylglycinate sodium salts and their derivatives.
Weitere vorteilhafte nicht-ionische Tenside sind Alkohole.Further advantageous non-ionic surfactants are alcohols.
Weitere geeignete anionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind fernerOther suitable anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also
Acylglutamate wie Di-TEA-palmitoyiaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/ Capric Glutamat, glutamates, such as di-TEA-palmitoyiaspartat and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/ Kalium Cocoyl hydrolysiertes Kollagen Acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
sowie Carbonsäuren und Derivate, wieas well as carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as
beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkunde- cylenat, example, lauric acid, cylenat aluminum stearate, magnesium and Zinkunde-,
Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6 Citrat und Natrium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat, ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
Alkylarylsulfonate. alkylarylsulfonates.
Weitere geeignete kationische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind fernerOther suitable cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also
Alkylamine, Alkylimidazole, alkylamines, alkylimidazoles,
ethoxylierte Amine insbesondere deren Salze. ethoxylated amines, in particular their salts.
Weitere geeignete nicht-ionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid.Other suitable nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
Es ist vorteilhaft das oder die erfindungsgemäßen waschaktiven Tenside aus der Gruppe der Tenside zu wählen, welche einen HLB-Wert von mehr als 25 haben, besonders vorteilhaft sind solche, welchen einen HLB-Wert von mehr als 35 haben. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind Tensidkombinationen aus Alkylethersulfaten mit amphoteren Cotensiden, wobei eine Tensidkombination aus Laurylethersulfat mit Cocoamidopropylbetain oder Cocoamphoacetat besonders bevorzugt ist.It is advantageous to choose the wash-active surfactant or surfactants according to the invention from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35. Surfactant combinations of alkyl ether sulfates with amphoteric cosurfactants are preferred according to the invention, a surfactant combination of lauryl ether sulfate with cocoamidopropyl betaine or cocoamphoacetate being particularly preferred.
Es ist vorteilhaft im Sinn der vorliegenden Erfindung, wenn der Gehalt an einem oder mehreren waschaktiven Tensiden in der kosmetischen Zubereitung aus dem Bereich von 1 bis 30 Gewichts-%, bevorzugt von 5 bis 25 Gew.-%, ganz besonders vorteilhaft von 10 bis 20 Gew.-% gewählt wird, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.In the sense of the present invention, it is advantageous if the content of one or more detergent surfactants in the cosmetic preparation is in the range from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 10 to 20 % By weight is selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft können die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen Polysorbate enthalten. Polysorbate stellen' eine Verbindungsklasse dar, die sich vom Sorbitan, einem aus Sorbit durch Abspaltung zweier Äquivalente Wasser gewonnenem Furanderivat, ableiteten. Die Hydroxylgruppen des Sorbitans sind mit Polyethylenglykolen verethert, deren Enden mit Fettsäuren verestert sein können. Sie lassen sich allgemein durch die FormelThe preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain polysorbates. Polysorbates' represents a class of compounds from the sorbitan, a sorbitol made by cleavage of two equivalents of water recovered furan derivative itself. The hydroxyl groups of sorbitan are etherified with polyethylene glycols, the ends of which may be esterified with fatty acids. They can be generalized by the formula
Figure imgf000014_0001
Ri. R2, R3 = H, Fettsäurerest .
Figure imgf000014_0001
Ri. R2, R3 = H, fatty acid residue.
darstellen.represent.
Im Sinne der Erfindung vorteilhafte Polysorbate sind beispielsweise dasPolysorbates which are advantageous in the sense of the invention are, for example
- Po!yoxyethylen(20)sorbitanmonolaurat (Tween 20, CAS-Nr.9005-64-5) - Polyoxyethylen(4)sorbitanmonolaurat (Tween 21 , CAS-Nr.9005-64-5)- Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (Tween 20, CAS No. 9005-64-5) - Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate (Tween 21, CAS No. 9005-64-5)
- Polyoxyethylen(4)sorbitanmonostearat (Tween 61 , CAS-Nr. 9005-67-8)- Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate (Tween 61, CAS No. 9005-67-8)
- Polyoxyethylen(20)sorbitantristearat (Tween 65, CAS-Nr. 9005-71-4)- Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan tristearate (Tween 65, CAS No. 9005-71-4)
- Polyoxyethylen(20)sorbitanmonooleat (Tween 80, CAS-Nr. 9005-65-6)- Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate (Tween 80, CAS No. 9005-65-6)
- Polyoxyethylen(5)sorbitanmonooleat (Tween 81, CAS-Nr. 9005-65-5) - Polyoxyethylen(20)sorbitantrioleat (Tween 85, CAS-Nr. 9005-70-3).- Polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate (Tween 81, CAS No. 9005-65-5) - Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan trioleate (Tween 85, CAS No. 9005-70-3).
Diese werden erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 5 Gewichts- % und insbesondere in einer Konzentration von 1,5 bis 2,5 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung einzeln oder als Mischung mehrer Polysorbate, eingesetzt.According to the invention, these are advantageously used in a concentration of 0.1 to 5% by weight and in particular in a concentration of 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, individually or as a mixture of several polysorbates.
Die kosmetische Zubereitung, zusätzlich neben einer oder mehreren Wasserphasen eine oder mehrere ölphasen enthalten und beispielsweise in Form von W/O-, O/W-, W/O/W- oder O/W/O-Emulsionen vorliegen. Solche Formulierungen können vorzugsweise auch eine Mikroemulsion (z.-B. eine PIT-Emulsion), eine Feststoff-Emulsionen (d. h. eine Emulsion, welche durch Feststoffe stabilisiert ist, z. B. eine Pickering-Emulsion) sein, wobei transparente oder transluzente Mikroemulsionen erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind.The cosmetic preparation additionally contains one or more oil phases in addition to one or more water phases and is present, for example, in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions. Such formulations can preferably also be a microemulsion (e.g. a PIT emulsion), a solid emulsions (ie an emulsion which is stabilized by solids, e.g. a Pickering emulsion), with transparent or translucent microemulsions are particularly preferred according to the invention.
Die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung kann als wässrige Lösung oder wässrige Phase einer Emulsion neben Wasser erfindungsgemäß auch andere Inhaltsstoffe enthalten, beispielsweise Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylengly- kolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -mo- nobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte, ferner Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1,2-Propandiol und Glycerin.As an aqueous solution or aqueous phase of an emulsion, the preparation according to the invention can also contain, in addition to water, other ingredients, for example alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, as well as low carbon number alcohols, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol and glycerin.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können vorteilhaft anfeuchtende bzw. feuchthaltende Mittel (sogenannte Moisturizer) enthalten. Vorteilhafte feuchthaltende Mittel im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Glycerin, Milchsäure und/oder Lactate, insbesondere Natriumlactat, Butylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine Soja, Ethylhexyloxyglycerin, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure und Harnstoff. Ferner ist es insbesondere von Vorteil, polymere Moisturizer aus der Gruppe der wasserlöslichen und/oder in Wasser quellbaren und/oder mit Hilfe von Wasser gelierbaren Polysaccharide zu verwenden. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind beispielsweise Hyaluronsäure, Chitosan und/oder ein fucosereiches Polysaccharid, welches in den Chemical Abstracts unter der Registraturnummer 178463-23-5 abgelegt und z. B. unter der Bezeichnung Fucogel®1000 von der Gesellschaft SOLABIA S.A. erhältlich ist. Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen können ferner vorteilhaft, wenngleich nicht zwingend, Füllstoffe enthalten, welche z. B. die sensorischen und kosmetischen Eigenschaften der Formulierungen weiter verbessern und beispielsweise ein samtiges oder seidiges Hautgefühl hervorrufen oder verstärken. Vorteilhafte Füllstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Stärke und Stärkederivate (wie z. B. Tapiocastärke, Distärkephosphat, Aluminium- bzw. Natrium-Stärke Octenylsuccinat und dergleichen), Pigmente, die weder hauptsächlich UV-Filter- noch färbende Wirkung haben (wie z. B. Bornitrid etc.) und/oder Aerosile® (CAS-Nr. 7631-86-9).The preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain moisturizing or moisturizing agents (so-called moisturizers). Advantageous moisturizing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride Gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA. The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
Ein zusätzlicher Gehalt an Antioxidantien ist im allgemeinen bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.An additional level of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
Besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können wasserlösliche Antioxidantien eingesetzt werden, wie beispielsweise Vitamine, z. B. Ascorbinsäure und deren Derivate.For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
Bevorzugte Antioxidantien sind femer Vitamin E und dessen Derivate sowie Vitamin A und dessen Derivate.Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
Die Menge der Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Sofern Vitamin A bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, wenn die kosmetischen Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung kosmetische oder dermatologische Wirkstoffe enthalten, wobei bevorzugte Wirkstoffe Antioxidantien sind, welche die Haut vor oxidativer Beanspruchung schützen können.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose. It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.
Weitere vorteilhafte Wirkstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind natürliche Wirkstoffe und/oder deren Derivate, wie z. B. alpha-Liponsäure, Phytoen, D-Biotin, Coenzym Q10, alpha-Glucosylrutin, Carnitin, Carnosin, natürliche und/oder synthetische Isoflavo- noide, Kreatin, Taurin und/oder ß-Alanin.Further advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosyl rutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine.
Erfindungsgemäße Rezepturen, welche z. B. bekannte Antifaltenwirkstoffe wie Flavon- glycoside (insbesondere σ-Glycosylrutin), Coenzym Q10, Vitamin E und/oder Derivate und dergleichen enthalten, eignen sich insbesondere vorteilhaft zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Hautveränderungen, wie sie z. B. bei der Hautalterung auftreten (wie beispielsweise Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen, Juckreiz, verminderte Rückfettung (z. B. nach dem Waschen), sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis), Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten und Fältchen, lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z. B. Altersflecken), vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit) und dergleichen). Weiterhin vorteilhaft eignen sie sich gegen das Erscheinungsbild der trockenen bzw. rauhen Haut.Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially σ-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
In die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können aber auch andere pharmazeutisch oder dermatologisch wirkende Substanzen wie beispielsweise die Haut beruhigende und pflegende Substanzen eingearbeitet sein. Hierzu zählen beispielsweise Panthenol, Allantoin, Tannin, Antihistaminika, Antiphlogistika, Glucocorticoide (z.B. Hydrocortison) sowie Pflanzenwirkstoffe wie Azulen und Bisabolol, Glycyrrhizin, Hamamelin und Pflanzenextrakte wie Kamille, aloe vera, Hamazelis, Süßholzwurzel.However, other pharmaceutically or dermatologically active substances such as, for example, substances that soothe and care for the skin can also be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. These include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (e.g. hydrocortisone) as well as plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root.
Die Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der polaren öle, beispielsweise aus der Gruppe der Lecithine und der Fettsäure- triglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 bis 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen öle, wie z. B. Cocoglycerid, Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnussöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Rizinusöl, Weizenkeimöl, Traubenkemöl, Distelöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Macadamianußöl und dergleichen mehr.The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageous, for example are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft sind ferner z. B. natürliche Wachse tierischen und pflanzlichen Ursprungs, wie beispielsweise Bienenwachs und andere Insektenwachse sowie Beerenwachs, Sheabutter und/oder Lanolin (Wollwachs).According to the invention, z. B. natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
Weitere vorteilhafte polare ölkomponenten können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ferner gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen sowie aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Octylpalmitat, Octylco- coat, Octylisostearat, Octyldodeceylmyristat, Octyldodekanol, Cetearylisononanoat, Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Butylstearat, n- Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethyl- hexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Stearyl- heptanoat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Tridecylstearat, Tridecyltri- mellitat, sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, wie z. B. Jojobaöl.For the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyltrimic gemellate, as well as synthetic such as. B. Jojoba oil.
Ferner kann die ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Dialkylether und Dialkylcarbonate, vorteilhaft sind z. B. Dicaprylylether (Cetiol OE) und/oder Dicaprylyl- carbonat, beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Cetiol CC bei der Fa. Cognis erhältliche.Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.
Es ist ferner bevorzugt, das oder die Ölkomponenten aus der Gruppe Isoeikosan, Neo- pentylglykoldiheptanoat, Propylenglykoldicaprylat dicaprat, Caprylic/Capric/Diglyceryl- succinat, Butylenglykol Dicaprylat/Dicaprat, Cocoglyceride (z. B. Myritol® 331 von Henkel), C12-13-Alkyllactat, Di-C12-13-Alkyltartrat, Triisostearin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa- caprylat/Hexacaprat, Propylenglykolmonoisostearat, Tricaprylin, Dimethylisosorbid. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, wenn die ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen einen Gehalt an C12-ι5-Alkylbenzoat aufweist oder vollständig aus diesem besteht.It is further preferred that the oil component (s) from the group isoeikosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides (eg Myritol® C 12 from Henkel) 13- alkyl lactate, di-C 12-13- alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexa- caprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C 12 ι 5 -alkyl or consists entirely of this.
Vorteilhafte ölkomponenten sind ferner z. B. Butyloctylsalicylat (beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Hallbrite BHB bei der Fa. CP Hall erhältliche), Hexadecylben- zoat und Butyloctylbenzoat und Gemische davon (Hallstar AB) und/oder Diethylhexyl- naphthalat (Corapan®TQ von Haarmann & Reimer).Advantageous oil components are also z. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Corapan®TQ from Haarmann & Reimer).
Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen.Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
Ferner kann die ölphase ebenfalls vorteilhaft auch unpolare öle enthalten, beispielsweise solche, welche gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweig- ten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, insbesondere Mineralöl, Vaseline (Petrolatum), Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squal.en, Polyolefine, hydrogenierte Polyisobutene und Isohexa- decan. Unter den Polyolefinen sind Polydecene die bevorzugten Substanzen.Furthermore, the oil phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squal . s, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.
Vorteilhaft kann die Ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölpha- senkomponenten zu verwenden.The oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
Silikonöle sind hochmolekulare synthetische polymere Verbindungen, in denen Silicium- Atome über Sauerstoff-Atome ketten- und/oder netzartig verknüpft und die restlichen Valenzen des Siliciums durch Kohlenwasserstoff-Reste (meist Methyl-, seltener Ethyl-, Propyl-, Phenyl-Gruppen u. a.) abgesättigt sind. Systematisch werden die Silikonöle als Polyorganosiloxane bezeichnet. Die methylsubstituierten Polyorganosiloxane, welche die mengenmäßig bedeutendsten Verbindungen dieser Gruppe darstellen und sich durch die folgende Strukturformel auszeichnenSilicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
Figure imgf000019_0001
werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten.
Figure imgf000019_0001
are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
Besonders vorteilhafte Polyorganosiloxane im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Dimethylpolysiloxane [Poly(dimethylsiloxan)], welche beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Abil 10 bis 10 000 bei Th. Goldschmidt erhältlich sind. Ferner vorteilhaft sind Phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Tri- methicone), cyclische Silikone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan bzw. Decamethylcyclopenta- siloxan), welche nach INCI auch als Cyclomethicone bezeichnet werden, aminomodifi- zierte Silikone (INCI: Amodimethicone) und Silikonwachse, z. B. Polysiloxan-Polyalkylen- Copolymere (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone und Cetyl Dimethicone) und Dialkoxydimethyl- polysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone und Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), welche als verschiedene Abil-Wax-Typen bei Th. Goldschmidt erhältlich sind. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Cetyldimethicon, Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsilo- xan).Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, are also advantageous, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimimethicones) and. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können auch alle nach der Kosmetikverordnung zugelassenen wasserlöslichen und/oder öllöslichen UV-A-, UV-B- und/oder Breitbandfiltersubstanzen enthalten.The preparations according to the invention can also contain all water-soluble and / or oil-soluble UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substances approved according to the Cosmetics Regulation.
Die Zusammensetzungen enthalten gemäß der Erfindung außer den vorgenannten Substanzen gegebenenfalls die in der Kosmetik üblichen Zusatzstoffe, beispielsweise Parfüm, Farbstoffe, antimikrobielle Stoffe, rückfettende Agentien, Komplexierungs- und Se- questrierungsagentien, Periglanzagentien, weitere Pflanzenextrakte, Vitamine, Wirkstoffe, Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Repellentien, Selbtbräuner, Depigmentierungsmittel, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Emulgatoren, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren und Elektrolyte.In addition to the substances mentioned above, the compositions optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, other plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, repellents , Self-tanners, depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other customary components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as emulsifiers, polymers, foam stabilizers and electrolytes.
Die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung kann erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ein oder mehrere Konservierungsstoffe enthalten. Vorteilhafte Konservierungsstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Formaldehydabspalter (wie z. B. DMDM Hydantoin, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Glydant ™ von der Fa. Lonza erhältlich ist), lodopropylbutylcarbamate (z. B. die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S von der Fa. Lonza erhältlichen und/oder Dekaben LMB von Jan Dekker), Parabene (d. h. p-Hydroxybenzoesäurealkylester, wie Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl- und/oder Butylparaben), Phenoxyethanol, Ethanol, Benzoesäure und dergleichen mehr. Üblicherweise umfasst das Konservierungssystem erfindungsgemäß ferner vorteilhaft auch Konservierungshelfer, wie beispielsweise Octoxyglycerin, Glycine Soja etc. Die nachfolgende Tabelle gibt einen Überblick über einige erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Konservierungsstoffe:The preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more preservatives according to the invention. Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM Hydantoin, which is available, for example, under the trade name Glydant ™ from Lonza), iodopropylbutyl carbamate (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker) , Parabens (ie, p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Usually, the preservation system according to the invention advantageously also includes preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc. The table below gives an overview of some preservatives which are advantageous according to the invention:
Figure imgf000021_0001
Figure imgf000021_0001
Femer vorteilhaft sind in der Kosmetik gebräuchliche Konservierungsmittel oder Konservierungshilfsstoffe, wie Dibromdicyanobutan (2-Brom-2-brommethylglutarodinitril), Phenoxyethanol, 3-lod-2-propinylbutylcarbamat, 2-Brom-2-nitro-propan-1 ,3-diol, Imidazolidinyl- hamstoff, 5-Chlor-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-on, 2-Chloracetamid, Benzalkoniumchlorid, Benzylalkohol.Preservatives or preservative additives customary in cosmetics, such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynylbutylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinyl, are also advantageous in cosmetics - urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol.
Es ist dabei erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt, wenn als Konservierungsstoffe Benzoesäure und/oder Salicylsäure und/oder deren Derivate oder Salze eingesetzt werden. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft sind ein oder mehrere Konservierungsstoffe in einer Konzentration von 2 Gewichts-% oder kleiner 2 Gewichts-%, bevorzugt 1,5 Gewichts-% oder kleiner 1,5 Gewichts-% und besonders bevorzugt 1 Gewichts-% oder kleiner 1 Gewichts-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung in der Zusammensetzung welche diese zum Zeitpunkt des Auftragens auf das Substrat aufweist, in der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung enthalten.It is particularly preferred according to the invention if benzoic acid and / or salicylic acid and / or their derivatives or salts are used as preservatives. According to the invention, one or more preservatives are advantageous in a concentration of 2% by weight or less than 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight or less than 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 1% by weight or less than 1% by weight , each based on the total weight of the preparation in the composition which it had at the time of application to the substrate, contained in the preparation according to the invention.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt weisen die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen einen Wassergehalt von mehr als 60 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, auf.According to the invention, the preparations according to the invention preferably have a water content of more than 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen enthalten vorteilhafter Weise einen oder mehrere Konditionierer. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Konditionierer sind beispielsweise alle Verbindungen, welche im International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, Herausgeber: R. C. Pepe, J.A. Wenninger, G. N. McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9. Auflage, 2002) unter Section 4 unter den Stichworten Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin-Conditioning Agents, Skin- Conditioning Agents-Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Humactant, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Occlusive und Skin Protectans aufgeführt sind sowie alle in der EP 0934956 (S.11-13) unter water soluble conditioning agent und oil soluble conditioning agent aufgeführten Verbindungen. Ein Teil dieser Verbindungen wird unter den Bestandteilen der wässrigen Phase und der ölphase namentlich aufgeführt. Weitere erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Konditionierer stellen beispielsweise die nach der internationalen Nomenklatur für kosmetische Inhaltsstoffe (INCI) als Polyquatemium benannten Verbindungen dar (insbesondere Polyquatemium-1 bis Polyquaternium-56).The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain one or more conditioners. Preferred conditioners according to the invention are, for example, all compounds which are described in Section 4 below in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th edition, 2002) the keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin-Conditioning Agents, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Humactant, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Occlusive and Skin Protectans are all listed in the EP 0934956 (p.11-13) under water soluble conditioning agent and oil soluble conditioning agent. Some of these compounds are listed under the constituents of the aqueous phase and the oil phase. Further conditioners which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, the compounds named polyquaternium according to the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients (INCI) (in particular polyquaternium-1 to polyquaternium-56).
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einen oder mehrere UV-Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen enthalten. Dabei sind alle UV-Lichtschutzfilter erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einsetzbar, die nach der Kosmetikverordnung für die Verwendung in Kosmetika zugelassen sind. Es kann sich dabei erfindungsgemäß um wasserlösliche, öllösliche und oder pigmentäre Lichtschutzfilter handeln. Erfindungsgemäß ist die Verwendung von polymeren zur Herstellung stabiler glitterstoffhaltiger kosmetischer Zubereitungen.According to the invention, the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more UV light protection filter substances. All UV light protection filters that are approved for use in cosmetics according to the Cosmetics Ordinance can advantageously be used according to the invention. According to the invention, these can be water-soluble, oil-soluble and or pigmentary light protection filters. According to the invention, the use of polymers for the production of stable glitter-containing cosmetic preparations.
Erfindungsgemäß ist die Verwendung der erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zubereitung als schäumbare Reinigungszubereitung.The use of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention as a foamable cleaning preparation is in accordance with the invention.
Insbesondere ist die Verwendung der erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zubereitung als Haarwaschmittel, Duschgel, Waschlotion und/oder Wannenbad erfindungsgemäß.In particular, the use of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention as a shampoo, shower gel, wash lotion and / or bath tub is according to the invention.
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft in einer besonderen Ausführungsform ferner auch Reinigungsprodukte auf Emulsionsbasis. Diese werden in der Art formuliert, daß die Emulsion mit Emulgatoren stabilisiert und anschließend ein Tensidsystem angepasst wird. Auch diese Zubereitungen enthalten meist HydrokoUoide zur Stabilisierung.In a particular embodiment, the present invention also relates to cleaning products based on emulsions. These are formulated in such a way that the emulsion is stabilized with emulsifiers and then a surfactant system is adapted. These preparations usually also contain hydrocoids for stabilization.
Außerdem sind vorteilhaft tensidhaltige Emulsionen, die keinen Emulgator im herkömmlichen Sinne enthalten und durch HydrokoUoide, bevorzugt auf Acrylatbasis stabilisiert sind. Dabei handelt es sich beispielsweise um Zubereitungen wie sie in der EP 00112547 offenbart sind.In addition, surfactant-containing emulsions which do not contain any emulsifier in the conventional sense and are stabilized by hydrocoids, preferably based on acrylate, are advantageous. These are, for example, preparations as disclosed in EP 00112547.
Außerdem kann die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft als Hautpflegeprodukt oder dekoratives Kosmetikum verwendet werden.In addition, the preparation according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention as a skin care product or decorative cosmetic.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ist es, die erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Zubereitung in einer transparenten oder zumindest durchscheinenden Verpackung aufzubewahren und aus dieser heraus anzuwenden.It is advantageous according to the invention to store the cosmetic preparation according to the invention in a transparent or at least translucent packaging and to use it from there.
Die folgenden Beispiele sollen die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen erläutern, ohne dass aber beabsichtigt ist, die Erfindung auf diese Beispiele zu beschränken. Die Zahlenwerte in den Beispielen bedeuten Gewichtsprozente, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der jeweiligen Zubereitungen. Beispielrezepturen für ReinigungszubereitungenThe following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions according to the invention, but are not intended to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations. Sample formulations for cleaning preparations
Figure imgf000024_0001
Figure imgf000024_0001
Figure imgf000025_0001
O/W-Emulsion
Figure imgf000025_0001
O / W emulsion
Figure imgf000026_0001
Figure imgf000026_0001
O/W-EmulsionO / W emulsion
Figure imgf000027_0001
Figure imgf000027_0001
O/W-EmulsionO / W emulsion
Figure imgf000028_0001
Figure imgf000028_0001
O/W-EmulsionO / W emulsion
Figure imgf000029_0001
Figure imgf000029_0001

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend a) ein oder mehrere Glitterstoffe auf der Basis ein oder mehrerer organischer Polymere die im wesentlichen frei von Metallsalzen sind b) ein oder mehrere HydrokoUoide, neben gegebenenfalls weiteren kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Wirk-, Hilfsund Zusatzstoffen.1. Cosmetic preparation comprising a) one or more glitter substances based on one or more organic polymers which are essentially free of metal salts b) one or more hydrocoids, in addition to any other cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.
2. Kosmetische Zubereitung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie ein oder mehrere Glitterstoffe auf der Basis ein oder mehrerer organischer Polymere in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 5 Gewichts-% bezogen aufτias Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung enthält.2. Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains one or more glitter substances based on one or more organic polymers in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.
3. Kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie ein oder mehrere HydrokoUoide in einer Konzentration von 0,01 bis 10 Gewichts-% bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung enthält.3. Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains one or more hydrocoids in a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.
4. Kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Glitterstoffe aus Acrylat-Copolymeren, Polybutylenterephthalaten, Ethylen/Vinylacetat-Copolymeren und/oder Polyethylennaphthalaten bestehen. 4. Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the glitter substances consist of acrylate copolymers, polybutylene terephthalates, ethylene / vinyl acetate copolymers and / or polyethylene naphthalates.
5. Kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als HydrokoUoide Agar-Agar, Carrageen, Tragant, Gummi arabicum, Alginate, Pektine, Polyosen, Guar-Mehl, Johannisbrotbaumkernmehi, Stärke, Dextrine, Gelatine, Casein, Celluloseether, Hydroxyethyl- und - propylcellulosederivate, Polyacryl- und Polymethacryl-Verbindungen, Vinylpolymere, Polycarbonsäuren, Polyether, Polyimine, Polyamide, Polykieselsäuren,5. Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that as hydrocoids agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, cellulose ether , Hydroxyethyl and - propyl cellulose derivatives, polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids,
Tonmineralien, Zeolithe, Kieselsäuren eingesetzt werden. Clay minerals, zeolites, silicas can be used.
6. Kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie waschaktive Tenside, bevorzugt anionische Tenside und besonders bevorzugt Laurylethersulfat enthält. 6. Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains detergent surfactants, preferably anionic surfactants and particularly preferably lauryl ether sulfate.
7.. Verwendung von polymeren Glitterstoffen nach einem der vorhergehenden7 .. Use of polymeric glitter fabrics according to one of the preceding
Ansprüche zur Herstellung stabiler glitterstoffhaltiger kosmetischer Zubereitungen.Claims for the production of stable cosmetic preparations containing glitter.
8. Verwendung einer kosmetischen Zubereitung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche als schäumbare Reinigungszubereitung.8. Use of a cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims as a foamable cleaning preparation.
9. Verwendung einer kosmetischen Zubereitung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche als Haarwaschmittel oder Duschgel. 9. Use of a cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims as a shampoo or shower gel.
0. Verwendung einer kosmetischen Zubereitung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche als Hautpflegeprodukt oder dekoratives Kosmetikum. 0. Use of a cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims as a skin care product or decorative cosmetic.
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US8030262B2 (en) 2007-07-17 2011-10-04 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Methods of cleansing dyed hair
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