WO2002102302A2

WO2002102302A2 - Method of preparing and formulations including hydrolyzed jojoba protein

Info

Publication number: WO2002102302A2
Application number: PCT/US2002/012898
Authority: WO
Inventors: Mark A. Howard; Clodualdo C. Maningat; Sukh Bassi; Dharmen Makwana; Soraya Rohde; John Carson
Original assignee: Midwest Grain Products, Inc.; Desert Whale Jojoba Company, Inc.
Priority date: 2001-04-23
Filing date: 2002-04-23
Publication date: 2002-12-27
Also published as: JP2004532895A; JP4229236B2; WO2002102302A3; AU2002258979A1

Abstract

Hydrolyzed jojoba protein is provided which can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations to enhance the desirable properties thereof. The preferred hydrolyzed jojoba protein is in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein. Cosmetic formulations such as shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair mousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays, makeup, pressed powder formulatons, lip products, bath additives, sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens can be improved by incorporation of hydrolyzed jojoba protein therein.

Description

METHOD OF PREPARING AND FORMULATIONS INCLUDING HYDROLYZED JOJOBA PROTEIN

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Field of the Invention

The present invention is broadly concerned with hydrolyzed jojoba protein and uses

thereof, particularly in connection with cosmetic products such as shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair mousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays, makeup, pressed powder

formulations, lip products, bath additives, sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens. More particularly, it is concerned with hydrolyzed j oj oba protein which is preferably in the form of a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba

protein; such mixtures, when used in cosmetic products provide enhanced properties.

Description of the Prior Art

Jojoba is a dioecious wind-pollinated shrub, reaching a height of 1-5 meters and having a long life span (100-200 years). Jojoba is cultivated mainly in Arizona, Northern Mexico, Argentina and Israel. Genetic variability in morphology, anatomy and physiology within the

species is very large and enable selection of clones for high yield and other agricultural attributes. Leaves are xerophytic with a thick cuticle, sunken stomata. They contain special tissue with a

high concentration of phenol compounds. Flowers are apetalous: the female ones are usually solitary, one per two nodes although flowers every node or in clusters are not rare. The male flowers are clustered. Flower buds form in the axiles of leaves solely on the new vegetative growth occurring during the warm seasons under favorable temperatures and water regime. New flower buds are dormant and will open only after a cool season with enough cold units for the fulfillment of their chilling requirements. Anthesis occurs in the spring when the soil and air temperature rise to above 15°C. Severe water stress prevents opening of flowers. The jojoba fruit is a capsule containing one to three dark brown seeds that normally range in their dry weight between 0.5-1.1 g and contains 44-56% wax. Fruits ripen during the spring and early summer

and seeds fall to the ground in late summer.

Indigenous Amerinds in the Sonora and Baja, California used jojoba seed and oil for

cooking, hair care, and for treatments of many medical problems such as poison ivy, sores, wounds, colds, cancer and kidney malfunction. The oil is extracted from jojoba seed by conventional screw pressing tecliniques, leaving a residual defatted dry material which is high in native jojoba protein (typically on the order of 25-35% by weight protein).

Jojoba oil is a light yellow liquid at room temperature and is made up of straight-chain esters of mono-unsaturated long chain fatty acids and fatty alcohols and has an average total carbon chain length of 42 carbons. The product may be isomerized, hydrogenated, sulfurized, chlorinated or transesterified, and has a wide range of industrial uses, mainly in cosmetics in

which it is incorporated in formulations for skin care preparations such as lotions, moisturizers,

massage oils, creams, hair care products, lipsticks, makeups and nail products. Other potential

uses include pharmaceuticals and as extenders for plastics, printers inks, gear-oil additives and lubricants.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention is directed to a new form of jojoba protein, namely hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereof, as well as uses of such protein products in cosmetic formulations . The preferred hydrolyzed j oj oba protein and derivatives thereof in accordance with the invention comprise a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of the naturally occurring j oj oba protein. Such hydrolysis is preferably carried out enzymatically, but if desired acid hydrolysis can also be employed.

The hydrolyzed jojoba protein products of the present invention are derived from the hydrolysis of defatted jojoba meal. As noted above, Jojoba meal generally comprises about 25- 35% natural protein. This protein content is not made up entirely of one single or specific

protein, but rather a complex mixture of various proteins and other companion materials such as

carbohydrates. Therefore, the hydrolysis of jojoba meal necessarily results in a large number of

amino acids, peptides and protein fragments of varying size and molecular weight, depending upon hydrolysis conditions. Furthermore, in j oj oba, as in all plants, there are two basic types of proteins, namely enzymes and storage proteins. Enzymes are produced to synthesize specific molecules or catalyze very specific reactions, and are found in very minute quantities in plants. On the other hand, storage proteins are produced in large quantities by seeds and are stored for utilization when the plant begins growing. These storage proteins provide the building blocks for the growth of new plants and are of course the predominant proteins in jojoba meal.

In addition to protein, jojoba meal comprises a wide variety of other components including significant quantities of carbohydrate and fiber. Jojoba meal further comprises

amounts of ash, magnesium, postassium, and simmondsin. Simmondsin and its analogues have

been discovered to be effective hunger satiation agents making joj oba meal effective in regulating

animal food intake. However, jojoba meal also contains other antinutritional factors such as trypsin inhibitor, polyphenols, bitter taste, nonnutritive protein and indigestible jojoba oil.

Preferably, defatted joj oba meal will comprise between about 30-75% by weight, more preferably between about 45-60% by weight, and most preferably between about 50-55% by weight carbohydrate. Jojoba meal will generally comprise between about 25-35% by weight protein and more preferably between about 28-30%) protein. Defatted jojoba meal will also comprise between about 12- 15 %> by weight simmondsin, less than about 2% by weight detectable

lipids, and less than about 3% by weight moisture. Accordingly, when jojoba meal is used as a substrate in the production of hydrolyzed j oj oba, the resultant product will contain the hydrolyzed j oj oba proteins, as well as the other ingredients noted above. Generally speaking, the hydrolysis reaction has little or no effect upon the carbohydrate and other components of the starting meal.

In more detail, the hydrolyzed j oj oba protein of the invention typically includes a mixture having an amino acid, peptide and/or protein fragment molecular weight range of from about 75-

5,000 with an average molecular weight of from about 1,500-2,500; and where jojoba meal is

used as a starting material, the other ingredients of the meal are present along with the hydrolyzed jojoba proteins. During processing, it is often desirable to membrane filter the hydrolysis products in order to segregate the peptides and/or protein fragments to achieve different

molecular weight profiles. In one such preferred method, a hydrolyzed jojoba protein product of relatively high molecular weight is provided, with a molecular weight range for the respective peptides and/or fragments therein of from about 1,000-5,000 and with an average molecular weight of from about 3,000-4,000. Similarly, a lower molecular weight fraction (sometimes

referred to as a jojoba amino acid fraction) is produced wherein the respective amino acids and

peptides exhibit a molecular weight range of from about 75-1,000, with an average molecular

weight of from about 100-300. Although the hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereof can be produced as a dry

powder, this is sometimes difficult and normally the product is in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing jojoba protein or derivatives at a level of from about 18-35% by weight, more preferably from about 23-27% by weight. As used herein, "derivatives" of hydrolyzed jojoba protein refers to changes in the structure of the individual amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments produced by amino acid addition, deletion, replacement, substitution and/or modifications; mutants produced by recombinant and/or DNA shuffling; quaternized species; and all other chemically synthe-

sized/modified forms of the individual amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments which

retain at least in part some activity of the initial hydrolyzed amino acids, peptides and/or protein

fragments. One particularly preferred class of hydrolyzed jojoba protein derivatives is the lipid derivatives, especially those synthesized using C12-C22 fatty acids.

The term "hydrolyzed jojoba protein" is intended to embrace and cover not only the amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring

jojoba protein but also all "derivatives" as herein defined. Furthermore, "jojoba protein" does not refer to one single or specific protein derived from jojoba, but rather, as discussed above, is intended to encompass a complex mixture of various proteins found in jojoba.

The jojoba products of the invention can be used to good effect in a variety of cosmetic formulations which include at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of

humectants, emollients, conditioners, thickeners, moisturizing agents, opacifiers, pearl agents, buffering agents, slip agents, feel agents, anti-static agents, acidifiers, preservatives, film formers, plasticizers, setting agents and suspending agents (usually, each of the foregoing ingredients

when used is present at a level of from about 0.05-10% by weight). An amount of hydrolyzed j oj oba protein or derivative thereof is incorporated into this type of cosmetic formulation, usually at a level of from about 1-10% by weight, more preferably from about 3-8% by weight. Inasmuch as the preferred jojoba protein products are in the form of liquid dispersions, it is a simple matter to add the jojoba to the cosmetic formulations during preparation thereof. Generally, the formulation of the invention comprise from about 10-95% by weight water, more preferably from about 20-75% by weight water.

Among the cosmetic products which can benefit from incorporation of the jojoba products of the invention are those selected from the group consisting of shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair

mousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays, makeup, pressed powder

formulations, lip products, bath additives, sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened

towelettes, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens. In products of these types, the shampoos and shampoo conditioners further comprise at least about 6% by weight detergent; the hairstyling gels further comprise a gel-forming polymer system; the hair conditioners further comprise at least about 0.3%) by weight cationic hair conditioner; the hair reparatives further comprise at least about 2% by weight cationic hair conditioner; the bath and shower gels further

comprise at least about 25% by weight surfactant; the skin lotions and creams further comprise at least about 2% by weight of a cream former and emollients and/or oils; the sunscreen further comprising a sunblocking agent; and the shaving creams further comprising at least about 10%

by weight detergent or alternately at least about 3% by weight of a soap and having a basic pH.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Figure 1 is a schematic flow diagram illustrating the steps involved in the preferred process for the production of hydrolyzed jojoba protein.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT The following examples set forth preferred procedures for the production of hydrolyzed jojoba protein, and use thereof in cosmetic products. It is to be understood, however, that these examples are provided by way of illustration and nothing therein should be taken as a limitation upon the overall scope of the invention.

Example 1

This example describes a preferred procedure for the preparation of hydrolyzed jojoba protein, using solvent extracted defatted jojoba meal as a starting material. The meal is obtained from jojoba which has been conventionally press-treated with subsequent solvent extraction to

remove the jojoba oil, leaving the defatted meal. The meal had a protein content of 30.2% by weight, 38.3% by weight dietary fiber, 1.7% by weight residual oil, ash of 4.3% by weight,

moisture of 5.6% by weight, with the remainder being insolubles. The following table sets forth

the amino acid profile of the protein fraction of the meal.

Table 1

Ingredient Amino Acid Profile

Aspartic Acid 2.82%

Threonine 1.41%

Serine 1.53%

Glutamic Acid 3.36%

Proline 1.44%

Glycine 2.45%

Alanine 1.19%

Cystine 0.80%

Valine 1.54%

Methionine 0.35% Isoleucine 1.03%

Leucine 2.02%

Tyrosine 1.07%

Phenylalanine 1.23%

Histidine 0.61%

Lysine 1.45%

Arginine 1.95%

Tryptophan 0.32%

The hydrolysis method is schematically illustrated in Fig. 1, and was carried out as

follows. First, 750 gallons of soft water was heated to 140°F and placed in a reaction tank. 1,000 pounds of the above-described jojoba oil meal was added to the reaction tank with

agitation to completely disperse the meal. At this point, 22 pounds of 50% NaOH solution was added to the reaction tank for 1 hour to solubilize the proteins and create the alkaline dispersion

10 of Fig. 1.

In the next step, the protein slurry was treated with 15 pounds of protease enzyme (step

12), using a commercially available enzyme (Alcalase, Novo) and hydrolyzed for 2 hours with agitation. During this hydrolysis, the pH was maintained between 7.5-8.0 using 50% NaOH. A second dose of the Alcalase protease enzyme (15 pounds) was then added to the slurry followed by agitation for 2 hours. During this period, there was no pH adjustment.

In the next step 14, the pH of the slurry was adjusted to 6.5 using lactic acid, whereupon a second protease treatment (step 16) was carried out. This treatment included addition of 10 pounds of a second protease enzyme (Flavorzyme, Novo) followed by agitation for 4 hours. Thereupon, 3 pounds of Dual Protease Enzyme (Enzyme Development Corp.) was dispersed in 1 gallon of tap water and added to the slurry followed by the addition of 10 pounds of Neutrase

(Novo). The slurry was then agitated for an additional 2 hours to continue the hydrolysis process.

In step 18, lactic acid was added to the slurry to lower the pH to 4.5, followed by the addition of 8 pounds sodium metabisulfite with agitation for 10 minutes. Next, in step 20, the slurry was heated to 160°F to deactivate all protease enzymes.

The slurry containing hydrolyzed jojoba proteins was then processed in a rotary vacuum filter (step 22) to remove insolubles, and the filtrate was clarified by passage through a packed- house filter unit (step 24).

The clarified filtrate from step 24 was then fed to a nanofiltration membrane system, in order to generate a permeate and a retentate having different molecular weight profiles (step 26)

after the retentate reached about 31%) by weight solids using a refractometer. The membrane system was selected so that the lower molecular weight permeate proteins were generally below a molecular weight of 1,000 whereas the retentate proteins had a molecular weight of above

about 1,000.

The retentate fraction was first treated by the addition of preservatives (step 28), namely

1% by weight Germaben II and 0.3% by weight Dowicil 200. The retentate was then chilled to 34-35 °F and allowed to stand for 16-24 hours (step 30). The chilled retentate was then cold- filtered in a packed-house filter unit to remove haziness (step 32), and additional preservatives were added (15% extra Germaben II and Dowicil 200). The resulting retentate was aged 1-2 weeks (step 34), filtered (step 36), and packed in aqueous liquid form in 5-gallon jugs or 55- gallon drums (step 38) as hydrolyzed jojoba protein 39. This liquid contained about 10%> by weight protein.

The permeate fraction was conventionally evaporated (step 40) to achieve a solids content

of about 34% by weight, using a refractometer. Preservatives were then added (1% Germaben II and 0.3% Dowicil 200) followed by mixing for 1 hour (step 42). The permeate was then subjected to the same aging, filtration and packaging steps 34, 36 and 38 as the retentate, to

produce aqueous liquid jojoba amino acid product 44. This liquid product contained about 4.5% by weight protein.

A molecular weight analysis of the hydrolyzed jojoba protein and amino acid products revealed that the higher molecular weight protein product was a mixture of peptides and/or

protein fragments with a range of molecular weights of from about 1,000-5,000, and an average molecular weight of 3,500; the amino acid product was a mixture of amino acids and peptides

with a range of molecular weights of from about 75-1 ,000, and average molecular weight of 200. In particular, the jojoba amino acid products was analyzed to contain (wb) 0.28% aspartic acid, 0.13% threonine, 0.15% serine, 0.38% glutamic acid, 0.09% proline, 0.17% glycine, 0.17% alanine, 0.03% cysteine, 0.14% valine, 0.04% methionine, 0.09% isoleucine, 0.17% leucine,

<0.01% tyrosine, 0.13% phenylalanine, 0.02% histadine, 0.08% lysine, 0.11% arginine, and <0.01% tryptophan.

It will be appreciated that the two products developed using this process comprise amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments derived from naturally occurring j oj oba protein, and that

the reference to "hydrolyzed jojoba protein" and "hydrolyzed jojoba amino acid" is a

convenience, merely referring to the fact that the respective mixtures have different molecular weight profiles. In both cases, however, the products are "hydrolyzed jojoba protein" and this

term is used herein to refer to both of these products and for that matter any product containing amino acids, peptides and/or protein fragments derived from naturally occurring jojoba protein

via hydrolysis. Example 2

In this example, a jojoba amino acid product is produced by acid hydrolysis of jojoba meal. In the process, 450 gallons of warm (160°F) water is transferred to a homomixer tank, followed by the addition of 2 gallons of concentrated HC1 (36%>). The mixture is stirred and 950

pounds of jojoba meal is added, with continued stirring for 30 minutes. The acidified slurry is then transferred to a glass-lined reactor and 448 gallons of concentrated HC1 (36%) is added to the reactor. The temperature of the mixture within the reactor is raised to 212-220 °F using a heat exchanger, followed by mixing for 24 hours. At the end of the 24 hour mixing period, the hydrolyzate is cooled to 120- 140 °F, and 50%> NaOH solution is added to adjust the pH to 6.0-7.0.

The neutralized hydrolyzate is then clarified using a rotary vacuum filter to remove solid

particulates, and the clarified hydrolyzate is concentrated to the desired solids level (20-30%) in an evaporator.

Preservatives (1% Germaben and 0.3%> Dowicil 200) are added. The product is then chilled at 34-35 °F for 16-24 hours. After chilling, the product is filtered using a packed-house filter unit to remove haziness. The product is then aged for 1-2 weeks, and a final filtration is carried out using a packed-house filter unit. The product is then packaged in suitable containers

such as 5 gallon jugs or 55 gallon drums.

Example 3 In this example, quaternized derivatives of hydrolyzed joj oba protein or jojoba amino acid

are prepared. In the first step, 100 parts of the j oj oba product (either hydrolyzed j oj oba protein

or jojoba amino acid) are added to a reaction tank. The pH of the mixture is adjusted to 9.1-9.3

using 50% NaOH.

Seventeen parts by weight of 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyldo-

decylammonium chloride (Quab 342, 40% active) and 6 parts by weight of tap water are mixed in a separate container, followed by 1.7 parts by weight of 50% NaOH with agitation. The

reaction is allowed to proceed for 10 minutes, giving a final pH typically between 10- 11 (a small amount of additional 50% NaOH was added if the pH fell below 10). Alternatives to the Quab 342 product are 3-cUoro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyloctadecylammonium chloride (Quab 426) or 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-trimethylammonium chloride (Quat 188) to produce other derivatives. The solution in the separate container is then added to the pH-adjusted jojoba mixture, followed by agitation for 16-24 hours. The pH of the solution is then adjusted 4.4-4.6 using lactic acid (88%) solution. The product is then filtered using a packed-house filter unit to

remove particulates, followed by packaging. Chemically, the finished product is laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed jojoba protein (or laurdimonium hydroxypropyl jojoba amino acid). If Quab 426 is used, the product

is steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed jojoba protein (or steardimonium hydroxypropyl

jojoba amino acid). If Quat 188 is used, the product is called hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed jojoba protein (or hydroxypropyl trimonium jojoba amino acid).

Example 4 The following products were produced using the hydrolyzed jojoba protein products 39

and 44 described in Example 1.

Moisturizing Body Wash

The following ingredients were used to prepare the body wash. Table 2

The product was prepared by placing an amount of distilled water in a primary tank and heating the water to 75 °C, whereupon the remaining ingredients of Phase A were added with mixing. The mixture was then cooled to 45 ° C and the ingredients of Phases B and C were added

with adequate mixing. The pH of the mixture was then adjusted to 5.5-6.5 using 25% citric acid,

and the viscosity was adjusted using a minor amount of 10%> NaCl solution.

Hair Shampoo

The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo. Table 3

Distilled water was placed in a primary tanlc and the remaining ingredients of Phase A were added, followed by those ofPhases B and C, with mixing. pH was adjusted to 5.5-6.5 using

25% citric acid, and viscosity was adjusted with 10%> NaCl solution.

Ultra Shampoo The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo. Table 4

The ultra shampoo was prepared using the same technique for the above-described hair shampoo.

Moisturizing Shampoo The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo.

Table 5

The moisturizing shampoo was prepared using the same technique for the above-

described hair shampoo.

Hand Lotion

The following ingredients were used to prepare the hand lotion.

Table 6

The distilled water was placed in a mixing tank along with glycerin, and the mixture was heated to 75 °C. The ingredients of Phase B were placed in a secondary tank and also heated to 75 °C. Phase B was then added to Phase A at 75 °C with good agitation. The mixture was then allowed to cool to 65 °C and the ingredient of Phase C was added, making sure that there were no lumps or powder remaining on the side of the tank. The ingredients of Phase D were added in the listed order. The mixture was then cooled to 35 ° C and the j oj oba amino acid product 44 was added along with preservative.

Moisturizing Hand Cream The following ingredients were used to prepare the hand cream. Table 7

The distilled water and other ingredients of Phase A were placed in a primary tank and

heated to 75 °C. The ingredients of Phase B were placed in a secondary tank and also heated to

75 °C. The Phase B ingredients were added to the Phase A ingredients at 75 °C with good agitation. The mixture was then allowed to cool and at 50-55 °C the ingredient of Phase C was

added, making sure that there were no lumps or powder remaining in the tank. The ingredients of Phase D were then added in the order listed. The mixture was then allowed to cool to 35 °C, whereupon the jojoba amino acid product and preservative were added.

Moisturizing Foot Cream

The following ingredients were used to prepare the foot cream.

Table 8

Distilled water was metered into a primary tank, followed by mixing in Cosmogel-40 with

good agitation at 40 °C. When the Cosmogel-40 was in solution, the remaining Phase A

ingredients were added with heating to 75 °C. All of the ingredients in Phase B were weighed in another tank and heated to 75 ° C. Phase B was then added to Phase A with good agitation, and when the temperature reached 50-55 °C, the Skin-Flow-C wheat starch product was added,

making sure there were no lumps or powder remaining on the side of the tank. The Phase B ingredients were then added in the listed order, followed by color addition and pH adjustment

to 5.5-6.5.

Moisturizing Foundation

The following ingredients were used to prepare the foundation.

Table 9

The ingredients of Phase A were heated to 75 °C, and the ingredients of Phase E were passed through a colloid mill with some propylene glycol and recirculated until the pigments were evenly dispersed. The colloid mill was rinsed with the Phase C ingredient and mixed using a lightnin mixer with heating to 75 °C. Phase B components were premixed and heated to 75 ° C, and added to the main batch. The Phase G ingredient was then sprinkled into the main batch premix Phase D with heating to 65 °C. At 40 °C, the ingredients of Phase F were added to the main batch together with preservative and fragrance.

Gentle Conditioning Agent

The following ingredients were used to prepare the conditioning agent.

Table 10

Distilled water added to a primary tank followed by the ingredients of Phase A in the

order listed, and the mixture was heated to 75 °C. The mixture was then cooled to 35 °C, and the Phase B and C ingredients were added. The pH was adjusted to 3.0 with 25% citric acid, and fragrance and preservative were added.

Moisturizing Baby Cream The following ingredients were used to prepare the baby cream.

Table 11

Distilled water was metered into a primary tank and the glycerine was added with heating to 75 °C. The Phase B ingredients were added in order to a secondary tank and heated to 75 °C.

The Phase B ingredients were added to the Phase A ingredients with good agitation. When the temperature reached 50-55 °C, the Skin-Flow-C product was sifted into the batch, making sure there were no lumps or powder. The Phase D ingredients were added, and at 35 °C, the preservative was added with pH adjustment to 3.5-4.5.

Anti-Wrinkle Cream

The following ingredients were used to prepare the anti-wrinkle cream.

Table 12

The distilled water was added to a primary tank followed by the ingredients of Phase A,

with heating to 75 °C. The Phase B ingredients were added in order to a secondary tank and

heated to 75 °C. Phase B was added to Phase A at 75° C with good agitation with continued mixing and cooling to 50-55 °C. At 50-55 °C, the Skin-Flow-C product was added, making sure there were no lumps or powder remaining. When the temperature reached 35 °C, the jojoba amino acid and hydrolyzed jojoba protein were added, together with the preservative.

Hair Styling Gel

The following ingredients were used to prepare the hair styling gel.

Table 13

The Carbomer was added in 25% water followed by mixing in of Phase A ingredients in order. Next, the Phase B ingredients were added with good agitation, followed by addition of preservative and fragrance. The pH of the product was 5.5. Professional Relaxer

The following ingredients were used to prepare the professional relaxer.

Table 14

The Phase A ingredients and Phase B ingredients were separately heated to 75 °C and

mixed with good agitation. The Phase C ingredient was then added at 50-55 °C. The product had a pH of 11.75-12.5.

Super Hair Reparative

The following ingredients were used to prepare the super hair reparative

Table 15

The distilled water was metered into a tank, followed by the addition of the Phase B

ingredients with good agitation. The Phase C ingredient was then added followed by the ingredients of Phase D and E. The pH of the product was adjusted to 3.5-4.5 with 25%> citric acid. Face Mask

The following ingredients were used to prepare the face mask.

Table 16

The Phase A and Phase B ingredients were separately heated to 75 °C, and Phase B was added to Phase A with mixing. When the mixture reached 65° C, the Phase C ingredient was added with good mixing. Thereafter, the Phase D ingredients were added and the mixture was cooled to 35 °C, whereupon the Phase E ingredients were added along with the preservative.

Claims

We claim:

1. Hydrolyzed jojoba protein obtained from a process of hydrolysis of jojoba meal, said process comprising the steps of reacting an aqueous dispersion of j oj oba meal with a reactant operable to hydrolyze jojoba protein in the meal, and recovering a reaction product comprising a mixture of hydrolyzed peptides and/or protein fragments of different j oj oba proteins .

2. The hydrolyzed protein of claim 1 , said mixture having a peptide and/or protein fragment molecular weight range of from about 1,000-5,000 and an average molecular weight

of from about 3,000-4,000.

3. The hydrolyzed protein of claim 3 , said mixture having an amino acid molecular

weight range of from about 75-1,000 and an average molecular weight of from about 100-300.

4. The hydrolyzed protein of claim 1, said reactant selected from the group

consisting of protease enzyme and acid.

5. The hydrolyzed protein of claim 1, derivatized by treatment with 3-chloro-2- hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyldodecylammonium chloride.

6. An aqueous dispersion containing hydrolyzed jojoba protein obtained from a process of hydrolysis of joj oba meal, said process comprising the steps of reacting an aqueous dispersion of jojoba meal with a reactant operable to hydrolyze jojoba protein in the meal, and

recovering a reaction product comprising a mixture of hydrolyzed peptides and/or protein

fragments in aqueous dispersion of different j oj oba proteins.

7. The dispersion of claim 6, said hydrolyzed j oj oba protein being present at a level of from about 18-35%) by weight in said aqueous dispersion.

8. The dispersion of claim 6, said mixture having a peptide and/or protein molecular weight range of from about 1,000-5,000, and an average molecular weight of from about 3,000- 4,000.

9. The dispersion of claim 6, said mixture having an amino acid and peptide molecular weight range of from about 75-1 ,000, and an average molecular weight of from about

100-300.

10. The dispersion of claim 6, said jojoba protein derivatized by treatment with 3-

chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyldodecylammonium chloride.

11. Hydrolyzed jojoba protein comprising a mixture of peptides and/or protein fragments derived from the hydrolysis of jojoba proteins and having a molecular weight range

of from about 1,000-5,000 and an average molecular weight of from about 3,000-4,000.

12. The protein of claim 11, said peptides and/or protein fragments derived from the hydrolysis of jojoba meal.

13. The protein of claim 11, said peptides and/or protein fragments being in an aqueous dispersion.

14. The protein of claim 13 , said peptides and/or protein fragments being present at a level of from about 18-35%) by weight in said aqueous dispersion.

15. Hydrolyzed jojoba protein comprising a mixture of amino acids and/or protein fragments derived from the hydrolysis of jojoba proteins and having a molecular weight range of from about 75-1,000, and an average molecular weight of from about 100-300.

16. The protein of claim 15, said amino acids and/or protein fragments derived from the hydrolysis of j oj oba meal.

17. The protein of claim 15, said amino acids and/or protein fragments being in an aqueous dispersion.

18. The protein of claim 17, said amino acids and/or protein fragments being present at a level of from about 18-35% by weight in said aqueous dispersion.

19. In a cosmetic formulation including at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of humectants, emollients, conditioners, thickeners, moisturizing agents, opacifiers, pearl agents, buffering agents, slip agents, feel agents, anti-static agents, acidifiers, preservatives, film formers, plasticizers, setting agents and suspending agents, the improvement which comprises an amount of hydrolyzed jojoba protein incorporated into the formulation.

20. The formulation of claim 19, said formulation comprising from about 10-95%> by weight water.

21. The formulation of claim 20, said formulation comprising from about 20-75% by weight water.

22. The formulation of claim 19, said at least one ingredient being present at a level

of from about 0.05-10% by weight.

23. The formulation of claim 19, said formulation selected from the group consisting of shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair mousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays,

makeup, pressed powder formulations, lip products, bath additives, sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens.

24. The formulation of claim 23, each of said ingredients when used being present at a level of from about 0.05- 10%o by weight, and wherein:

(a) said shampoos and shampoo conditioners further comprise at least about 6%> by weight detergent;

(b) said hairstyling gels further comprise a gel-forming polymer system;

(c) said hair conditioners further comprise at least about 0.3% by weight cationic hair conditioner;

(d) said hair reparatives further comprise at least about 2% by weight cationic hair conditioner; (e) said bath and shower gels further comprise at least about 25% by weight surfactant;

(f) said skin lotions and creams further comprise at least about 2% by weight of a cream

former;

(g) said sunscreen further comprising a sunblocking agent; and

(h) said shaving creams further comprising at least about 10% by weight detergent and having a basic pH.

25. The formulation of claim 19, said hydrolyzed jojoba protein being present at a level of from about 1-10% by weight.

26. The formulation of claim 25, said level being from about 3-8% by weight.

27. The formulation of claim 19, said hydrolyzedjoj oba protein comprising a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally

occurring jojoba protein.

28. The formulation of claim 27, said mixture having a peptide and/or protein fragment molecular weight range of from about 1,000-5,000 and an average molecular weight of from about 3,000-4,000.

29. The formulation of claim 27, said mixture having an amino acid and peptide molecular weight range of from about 75-1,000 and an average molecular weight of from about 100-300.

30. A method of hydrolyzing defatted jojoba meal comprising the steps of:

forming an aqueous alkaline dispersion of said defatted jojoba meal; hydrolyzing said jojoba protein by adding protease enzymes to said dispersion and agitating the dispersion;

adding an acid to said agitated dispersion to lower the pH thereof; and

deactivating remaining protease enzyme in said dispersion.

31. The method of claim 30, said hydrolyzing step comprising the step of initially adding a first quantity of protease enzyme to said dispersion with agitation and while maintaining the pH of the dispersion at a level between 7.5-8.0, and thereafter adding a second quantity of protease enzyme to the dispersion with additional mixing.

32. The method of claim 31 , including the step of adjusting the pH of said dispersion to 6.5 after said additional mixing step is completed, and then adding dosages of three protease enzymes with still further agitation.

33. The method of claim 30, said acid addition step comprising the step of adding lactic acid to said dispersion to lower the pH to 4.5.

34. The method of claim 30, including the step of adding sodium metabisulfite to said dispersion after said acid addition step.

35. The method of claim 30, said deactivating step comprising the step of heating said

dispersion to a temperature sufficient to deactivate all protease enzymes present in the dispersion.

36. The method of claim 30, including the step of passing said dispersion after said enzyme deactivation step through a filtration system to generate respective permeate and retentate

fractions having different molecular weight profiles, with the retentate fraction having a higher

molecular weight profile than said permeate fraction.

37. The method of claim 36, including the step of chilling and aging said retentate

fraction.

38. A method of hydrolyzing j oj oba meal comprising the steps of: forming an aqueous acidic dispersion of said jojoba meal; heating said dispersion to a temperature of 212-220 °F and agitating the dispersion to

generate a hydrolysate; and cooling the hydrolysate to 120-140°F and neutralizing the hydrolysate.

39. The method of claim 38, said neutralizing step comprising the step of adding NaOH to the hydrolysate to achieve a pH of 6.0-7.0.

40. The method of claim 38, including the steps of filtering said hydrolysate, and concentrating the hydrolysate to a solids level of 20-30%>.

41. The method of claim 40, including the steps of chilling and filtering the hydrolysate and allowing the same to age.

42. A hydrolyzed j oj oba protein product comprising between about 25-35 %> by weight hydrolyzed jojoba protein, and between about 45-60% by weight carbohydrate.

43. The product of claim 42, said hydrolyzed j oj oba protein comprising a mixture of

proteins of varying size and molecular weight.