WO2001000150A1

WO2001000150A1 - Hair compositions comprising at least an adhesive polymer and solid particles

Info

Publication number: WO2001000150A1
Application number: PCT/FR2000/001763
Authority: WO
Inventors: Henri Samain; Isabelle Rollat
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 1999-06-29
Filing date: 2000-06-23
Publication date: 2001-01-04
Also published as: EP1196132A1; BR0012194A; AU5990800A; AU777289B2; CA2376942A1; FR2795636A1; JP2003503332A; FR2795636B1

Abstract

The invention concerns a hair cosmetic composition comprising solid particles in a cosmetically acceptable medium, further comprising, at least an adhesive polymer selected such that the material obtained when said adhesive polymer(s) have dried in the cosmetically acceptable medium exhibit a release profile defined by at least a maximum release force (Fmax) greater than 1N. The invention also concerns a cosmetic process using said composition and its use for making a hair cosmetic formulation.

Description

HAIR COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ADHESIVE POLYMER AND SOLID PARTICLES

The subject of the invention is hair compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one adhesive polymer and particles. It also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the use of this composition as well as its use for the manufacture of a cosmetic hair formulation.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “styling product” means a product intended to maintain and / or fix the shape of the hairstyle.

Products are known for giving the hair certain aesthetic effects, such as coloring, shine, conditioning or styling effects. The products currently used are based on the use of molecules dissolved or in emulsion or dispersion in a cosmetic solvent. Among the emulsions or dispersions, mention may be made of latexes which are polymers in dispersion.

It is also well known that certain cosmetic effects such as makeup can be obtained by using solid particles. Thus pigments are used to give color to lipstick, nail polish or mascaras.

Such particles are practically not used in hair cosmetics because they induce an unpleasant rough feel. In addition, the particles deposited on the hair do not remain attached to the fibers. It is observed that they come off the hair at the slightest contact, for example by passing the hand through the hair. Gravity alone can also take off particles. The consequences are disastrous because on the one hand, the desired cosmetic effect is ephemeral and on the other hand, the particles can stain your hands or clothing, which is particularly harmful if they are colored or shiny. Research efforts have solved some of these problems. The best solution to date is to associate the particles with fatty substances. The particles no longer fall under their own weight. However, they are still easy to peel off of the fiber by friction, and problems associated with the use of fatty substances appear, such as poor cosmetic properties, a charged feel and a dirty appearance.

Efforts have been made to associate the particles with polymers such as those usually used in hair lacquers. However, such associations do not make it possible to solve the problems mentioned above.

Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the Applicant has discovered that when solid particles are combined with certain polymers having a particular adhesive power, it is possible to obtain cosmetic hair compositions that meet the requirements expressed above.

The subject of the invention is a hair cosmetic composition comprising solid particles in a cosmetically acceptable medium, characterized in that it also comprises at least one adhesive polymer chosen so that the material resulting from the drying of this or of these adhesive polymers in the cosmetically acceptable medium has a detachment profile defined by at least a maximum detachment force F _max greater than IN.

Another object of the invention relates to a hair cosmetic process, characterized in that such a composition is applied to the hair.

Yet another object of the invention relates to the use of such a composition in the manufacture of a composition for styling, coloring, shine or conditioning of the hair, as well as hair cosmetic products comprising this composition. The preferred adhesive polymers are chosen such that the material resulting from the drying of this or these adhesive polymer (s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of less than +10 ° C. and has a profile of detachment defined by at least: (a) a maximum detachment force F _max > 1 Newton and

(b) when said temperature Tg is less than -15 ° C, by a separation energy E _{S (MV)} of the material brought into contact with a glass surface, less than 300 μj.

The adhesive polymer particularly targeted by the present invention is branched sulfonic polymer AQ 1350 sold by the company Eastman AQ1350. This AQ 1350 polymer is defined by:

- a Tg of 0 ° C

- a maximum release force F _max equal to 23 Newton.

According to the present invention, the term maximum detachment force Fmax is understood to mean the maximum traction force, measured using an extensometer, necessary for detaching the 38 mm ² surfaces, respective of two supports (A) and (B ), rigid, inert, non-absorbent, placed opposite one another; said surfaces being previously coated with a formulation constituted by the adhesive polymer (s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium, at a rate of

53 / c μg / mm ² , dried for 24 hours at 22 ° C, at a relative humidity of 50%, then subjected for 20 seconds to a compression of 3 Newton and finally subjected for 30 seconds to a tensile speed 20 mm / minute, c being the concentration of dry matter in the formulation constituted by the adhesive polymer (s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium, expressed in grams per gram of composition.

Preferably, supports (A) and (B) are used which are made of polyethylene, polypropylene, metal alloy or glass.

The maximum release force F _max is preferably greater than 2.5 N.

Advantageously, the ratio of the relative concentrations by weight between the one or more adhesive polymer (s) and the solid particles in the hair cosmetic composition is between 0.05 and 50, and preferably between 0.15 and 5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the adhesive polymers have a glass transition temperature below 10 ° C.

According to the present invention, the term separation energy E _{s (M} / v) is intended to mean the energy supplied by the extensometer to effect the separation of the respective surfaces of 38 mm ² from two supports (C) and (D), rigid, inert, non-absorbent and placed opposite one another; one of said supports being made of polished glass and the other of said supports being identical in nature to that of supports (A) and (B) defined above and the surface of which is coated with the dry matter concentration formulation c , at a rate of 53 / c μg / mm ² on the support, dried for 24 hours at 22 ° C under a relative humidity of 50%; the two surfaces of said supports (C) and (D) then being subjected for 20 seconds to a compression of 3 Newtons and finally subjected for 30 seconds to a speed traction 20 mm / minute, c being the concentration of dry matter in the formulation , in grams per gram of composition.

This energy supplied by the extensometer is the energy calculated using the following formula:

where F (x) is the force necessary to produce a displacement (x); Xsi is the displacement (expressed in millimeters) produced by the maximum tensile force;

X _S is the displacement (expressed in millimeters) produced by the tensile force allowing the total separation of the two surfaces of the supports (C) and (D) defined above.

According to the invention, preferably, as a solid particle, scales, platelets, flakes, fibrils or powders are used. The particles can be organic or inorganic or made up of organic and inorganic elements Mention may be made, for example, of melanin or in particular synthetic pigments resulting from the polymerization of indole or indoline compounds such as 5,6-dιhydroxymdole or 5,6-dιhydroxyιndohne

The pigments in accordance with the invention are chosen from all the orgamous or mineral pigments which do not result from the oxidative polymerization of indole compounds, cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable

They can be in the form of powder or pigment paste

Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made, for example, of titanium dioxide (rutile or anastase) optionally surface-treated and codified in the Color Index under the reference CI77891, black, yellow red and brown iron oxides, codified under the references CI77499, 77492, 77491, manganese violet (CI77742), ultramarine blue (CI77007), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), ferric blue (CI77510)

Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned, for example, the pigment YELLOW 3 sold in particular under the trade name "JAUNE COVANOR W 1603 'by the company WACKHERR (CI 17710), the" D & C RED No. 19 "( CI 45170), "D & C RED n ° 9 (CI 15585)," D & C RED n ° 21 "(CI 45380)," D & C ORANGE n ° 4 "(CI 15510)," D & C ORANGE n ° 5 "(CI 45370), the" D & C RED n ° 27 "(CI45410) the" D & C REDn ⁰ 13 (CI 15630), the "D & C RED n ° 7" ( CI 15850-1), "D & C RED n ° 6 (CI 15850-2)," D & C YELLOW n ° 5 "(CI 19140)," D & C RED n ° 36 "(CI 12085 ), "D & C ORANGE # 10" (CI 45425), "D & C YELLOW # 6" (CI 15985), "D & C RED # 30" (CI 73360), "D & C RED n ° 3 "(CI 45430), carbon black (CI 77266), and cochineal carmine lacquers (CI 75470)

It is also possible to use pearlescent pigments which can be chosen in particular from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, bismuth oxide, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of precipitated type, as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride

Use is more particularly of organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name

YELLOW COSMENYL 1OG Pigment YELLOW 3 (CI 1 1710) YELLOW COSMENYL G Pigment YELLOW 1 (CI 11680) ORANGE COSMENYL GR Pigment ORANGE 43 (CI 71105) RED COSMENYL R ° Pigment RED 4 (CI 12085) CARMIN COSMENYLFB Pigment RED 5 (CI 12490 ) ^' VIOLET COSMENYL RL Pigment VIOLET 23 (CI 51319) BLUE COSMENYL A2R Pigment BLUE 15 1 (CI 74260) GREEN COSMENYL GG Pigment GREEN 7 (CI 74260) NOIRCOSMENYLR Pigment BLACK 7 (CI 77266)

The particles advantageously have a size less than 1 mm, and preferably a size less than 100 μm or more preferably still a size less than 30 μm

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “particle size” is understood to mean the maximum dimension which it is possible to measure between two opposite points of the particle. The size can be determined by electron microscopy.

The particles can cause various cosmetic effects, for example

- effects resulting from the interaction with light coloring, shining, scintillating, light diffusing, diffracting, filtering or mattifying effect

- mechanical or physicochemical effects ^• fiber reinforcing effect, welding effect between close fibers, softening effect, anti-wetting effect, effect limiting the uptake of water by humidity or washing In the compositions according to the invention, the relative concentration by weight of adhesive polymer is preferably between 0.05 and 30%, more preferably between 0.1 and 20%, and even more preferably between 0.2 and 10%. The relative concentration by weight of solid particles is preferably between 0.1 and 50%, more preferably between 0.5 and 40%, and even more preferably between 1 and 25%.

The compositions in accordance with the invention preferably contain an organic solvent chosen from the group comprising C 1 to C alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol, C 5 to C 10 alkanes, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl acetate, butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane and mixtures thereof.

They may also contain the usual cosmetic additives chosen from reducing agents such as thiols, silanes such as amino propyl triethoxysilane, fatty substances, thickening agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, agents antiperspirants, basifying agents, colorants, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, fixing or non-fixing polymers, volatile or non-volatile silicones, in particular anionic silicones, polyols, proteins and vitamins.

The compositions according to the invention can be packaged in various forms, in particular in an aerosol device.

The invention can be better understood with the aid of the nonlimiting examples which follow and which constitute preferential modes of implementation of the method according to the invention.

In the examples, the percentages are expressed by weight.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Formulations Containing Glitter Compared below is a composition according to the invention containing solid particles and an adhesive polymer defined by a maximum release force greater than 1 N, and compositions not according to the invention containing the same solid particles without adhesive polymer to the sense of invention.

Formulation 1 (invention):

AQ 1350 (EASTMAN KODAK) 4g

Reflective glitter ⁽²⁾ 5 g Jaguar HP 60 ⁽¹⁾ lg

Demineralized water qs 100g

(1): hydroxypropyl guar sold by Rhodiachimie

(2) marketed under the name Timiron Color Violet by Merck

Formulation 2: (prior art) -

Reflective glitter ^m 5g

Jaguar HP 60 ⁽¹⁾ lg Demineralized water qs 100g

Formulation 3. (prior art)

Reflective glitter ⁽²⁾ 5g Glycerol 4g

Demineralized water qs 100g

The three formulations are applied to locks of natural brown hair at the rate of 1 g of formulation per 5 g of hair. The locks are left to stand for 30 seconds. The quality of the three locks is then evaluated. It is observed that the locks treated with formulation 1 have, unlike the lock treated with formulation 3, a natural and soft feel. The wick treated with formulation 3 has a greasy and unpleasant feel. It is also observed that the flakes of the wick treated with formulation 1 resist movement better than the flakes of the other wicks treated with compositions 2 and 3.

EXAMPLE 2 Formulation Containing Pigments

The following formulation 4 is produced in accordance with the present invention.

Formulation 4 (invention):

AQ 1350 (EASTMAN KODAK) 5g

Pigment ⁽³⁾ 5 g Jaguar HP 60 ⁽¹⁾ lg

Demineralized water - qs 100g

(3) marketed by Kohnstamm under the name Ultramarine Blue A 4575

Formulation 4 is applied to a lock of gray natural hair (90% white) at the rate of 1 g of formulation for 5 g of hair. The wick is left to stand for 30 seconds. Thereafter, the quality of the wick is evaluated.

It is observed that the lock treated with formulation 4 has a natural and soft feel. It is also observed that the blue coloration obtained withstands the movements of the wick very well and exhibits very good resistance in the event of friction.

Claims

1. Hair cosmetic composition comprising solid particles in a cosmetically acceptable medium, characterized in that it further comprises at least one adhesive polymer chosen so that the material resulting from the drying of this adhesive polymer (s) ( s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium has a detachment profile defined by at least one maximum detachment force F ^ greater than IN.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the maximum release force Fmax is the maximum traction force, measured using an extensometer, necessary to take off the surfaces of 38 mm ² , respective of two supports (A) and (B), rigid, inert, non-absorbent, placed opposite one another; said surfaces being previously coated with a formulation consisting of the adhesive polymer (s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium, at a rate of 53 / c μg / mm ² , dried for 24 hours at 22 ° C., under a relative humidity of 50%, then subjected for 20 seconds to a compression of 3 Newton and finally subjected for 30 seconds to a tensile speed 20 mm / minute, c being the concentration of dry matter in the formulation constituted by (or ) adhesive polymer (s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium, expressed in grams per gram of composition

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the supports (A) and (B) consist of polyethylene, polypropylene, metal alloy or glass.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the maximum detachment force F ^ is greater than 2.5 N.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the material resulting from the drying of this adhesive polymer (s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of less than +10 ° C and has a detachment profile defined by at least (a) a maximum detachment force _∞K > 1 Newton and

(b) when said temperature Tg is less than -15 ° C, by a separation energy E _{S (M /} v ₎ of the material brought into contact with a glass surface, less than 300 μj.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the separation energy E _{S (MW)} is the energy supplied by the extensometer to effect the separation of the respective surfaces of 38 mm ² from two supports (C) and (D), rigid, inert, non-absorbent and placed opposite one another; one of said supports being made of polished glass and the other of said supports being identical in nature to that of supports (A) and (B) defined above and the surface of which is coated with the dry matter concentration formulation c , at a rate of 53 / c μg / mm ² on the support, dried for 24 hours at 22 ° C under a relative humidity of 50%; the two surfaces of said supports (C) and (D) being then subjected for 20 seconds to a compression of 3 Newtons and finally subjected for 30 seconds to a traction of speed 20 mm / minute, c being the concentration of dry matter in the formulation , in grams per gram of composition. -

7. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the energy supplied by the extensometer is the work calculated by means of the following formula:

where F (x) is the force necessary to produce a displacement (x); x _s ι is the displacement (expressed in millimeters) produced by the maximum tensile force; X _s2 is the displacement (expressed in millimeters) produced by the tensile force allowing the total separation of the two surfaces of the supports (C) and (D) defined above.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid particles are chosen from the group comprising scales, platelets, flakes, fibrils or powders.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particles have a size less than 1 mm, and preferably a size less than 100 μm or more preferably still a size less than 30 μm.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the relative concentration by weight of adhesive polymer of between 0.05 and 30%, more preferably between 0.1 and 20%, and more preferably still between 0 , 2 and 10%.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the relative concentration by weight of solid particles is between 0, 1 and 50%, more preferably between 0.5 and 40%, and even more preferably between 1 and 25%.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises an organic solvent chosen from the group comprising C 1 to C alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol, C 6 alkanes ₅ to Cι ₀ , acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl acetate, butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane and their mixtures.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains the usual cosmetic additives chosen from reducing agents such as thiols, silanes such as amino propyl triethoxysilane, fatty substances, agents thickeners, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, antiperspirants, alkalizing agents, dyes, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, fixing or non-fixing polymers, volatile or non-volatile silicones, in particular silicones anionics, polyols, proteins and vitamins.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is packaged in an aerosol device.

15. Cosmetic hair method, characterized in that a composition as defined in claims 1 to 14 is applied to the hair,

16. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 in the manufacture of a composition for styling, coloring, shining or conditioning the hair.

17. Hair cosmetic product, characterized in that it comprises a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.

18. Product according to claim 17, characterized in that it is a hair styling product.

19. Product according to claim 17, characterized in that it is a product intended to give the hair shine.

20. Product according to claim 17, characterized in that it is a product intended to give the hair coloring effects.