EP1301166A1 - Rendering sunscreen agents visible on the skin - Google Patents

Rendering sunscreen agents visible on the skin

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Publication number
EP1301166A1
EP1301166A1 EP01969366A EP01969366A EP1301166A1 EP 1301166 A1 EP1301166 A1 EP 1301166A1 EP 01969366 A EP01969366 A EP 01969366A EP 01969366 A EP01969366 A EP 01969366A EP 1301166 A1 EP1301166 A1 EP 1301166A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
skin
cosmetic
pigments
acid
dermatological
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP01969366A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Heinrich Gers-Barlag
Anja MÜLLER
Birgit Grotelüschen
Wiebke Grundt
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1301166A1 publication Critical patent/EP1301166A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of pigments for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological formulations, in particular cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin.
  • erythema redness, warmth
  • Epidermis is repelled over a large area.
  • the 2nd and 3rd degrees are also called solar dermatitis.
  • the formation of the erythema depends on the wavelength.
  • the erythema range of the UV-B is between 280 nm and 320 nm.
  • UV-A rays About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm. While the UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. time of year and day) or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day, regardless of the time of year, time of day or geographical factors. At the same time, the majority of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer.
  • UV-A radiation has only a negligible biological effect and that UV-B rays are accordingly responsible for most of the light damage to human skin.
  • UV-B radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin.
  • the damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be intensified by UV-A radiation.
  • the sunburn or the light erythema are the acute manifestations of the effect of light.
  • particularly strongly exposed areas of the skin face, neck, hands
  • the most striking chronic light damage to the skin is actinic or senile elastosis. Macroscopically, it manifests itself in thickening and coarsening of the skin, wrinkling, loss of elasticity, the appearance of yellowish shimmering deposits and irregular pigment accumulations.
  • the epidermis becomes thin in places and shows warty growths, the dermis loses its elasticity and tension, the water retention capacity is reduced.
  • Chronic light damage that occurs as a late consequence also includes malignant melanoma and, in the last stage, actinic keratosis. Since the contributions of the various wavelength ranges of UV light have not yet been fully clarified, preventive protection is necessary for both the UV-A and the UV-B range, for example by applying light protection filter substances in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation to the skin, vital. Cosmetic preparations should fundamentally strongly absorb the critical UV-A rays, not only to protect sensitive skin when sunbathing, but also for general protection up to use in a normal skin cream, since skin aging and the risk of skin cancer are significantly different from this part of the UV -Light be influenced.
  • the benefit of a sunscreen preparation is to extend the amount of time that a consumer can stay in the sun without causing light damage.
  • the filter effect should be adapted in particular for the UV-B range to the individual sensitivity of the consumer and the intensity of solar radiation.
  • the weakening of the intensity of the incident light and thus the effectiveness of a sun protection formulation depend, among other things, on the layer thickness of the applied filter substance. With increasing layer thickness, the effectiveness of a sunscreen also increases. It is therefore only possible to a limited extent to increase the sun protection factor by increasing the concentration of the UV filter substance. In particular in the case of low-viscosity preparations such as oils or alcoholic solutions, it is also necessary to increase the viscosity of the formulation and thus the achievable layer thickness on the skin from a certain limit concentration of filter substance.
  • the layer thickness achieved with a special base is a very important criterion in light protection.
  • the sun protection factor increases in the order of oil ⁇ alcoholic solution ⁇ liquid emulsion ⁇ cream ⁇ paste.
  • Another important parameter in this context is the adhesiveness or water resistance of the formulations on the skin.
  • Most sunscreens are used near the water or during sporting activities (sweating).
  • a waterproof sunscreen can protect the user from sunburn not only during bathing but also after bathing, provided it is not washed off too much.
  • the prior art knows a large number of different light protection formulations with the most diverse light protection factors and application properties.
  • the disadvantage of these conventional sunscreens is that after applying the cream, the user can neither see whether he has covered all parts of the body exposed to radiation with a protective layer, nor whether the skin has been adequately covered, ie whether the layer thickness has been chosen sufficiently.
  • Another disadvantage is that the user cannot keep track of how the layer thickness of the sunscreen changes, for example due to contact with water or mechanical loads such as drying, etc., and accordingly when a new creaming has become necessary.
  • the object of the present invention was accordingly to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art and to find possibilities to visualize cosmetic and dermatological formulations, in particular cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations, on the skin and thus to facilitate the application of a uniform film to the skin.
  • the state of the art knows light protection preparations containing pigments.
  • the pigments serve as so-called physical UV filters, which reflect the incident light and thus develop a light protection effect.
  • preparations of this type are formulated in such a way that they are transparent and not visible on the skin, since the so-called whiteness (the physical filters are usually inorganic metal oxides) is undesirable from a cosmetic point of view and is not accepted by the consumer. Accordingly, the prior art could not point the way to the present invention.
  • effect pigment is to be understood as meaning those pigments which lead to a glittering optical effect (glitter or mica effect) as a result of light reflections, in particular under sunlight.
  • Advantageous effect pigments in the sense of the present invention are, for example, pearlescent pigments.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
  • Natural pearlescent pigments such as. B.
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)
  • Layer-substrate pigments e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
  • Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Such pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. Particularly preferred is, for. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
  • B the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • metal oxides such as. B. silica and the like.
  • TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles are advantageous for. B. with TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck.
  • Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 from BASF.
  • Pigments from Engelhard / Mearl which are coated with titanium dioxide on the basis of calcium sodium borosilicate, can also be used advantageously. These are available under the trade name Reflecks. Due to their particle size of 40 to 180 ⁇ m, they have a glitter effect in addition to the color.
  • effect pigments which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue).
  • the glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the effect pigments according to the invention advantageously have an average particle size of 15 ⁇ m to 200 ⁇ m, particularly advantageously 50 ⁇ m to 150 ⁇ m, in particular 100 ⁇ m to 150 ⁇ m.
  • the effect pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be coated with one another, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations ,
  • the cosmetic or dermatological formulations in the sense of the present invention can preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases, one or more water phases and, for example, in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W, O / W / O - or other multiple emulsions.
  • Such emulsions can preferably also be a microemulsion, a Pickering emulsion or a sprayable emulsion.
  • the preparations within the meaning of the present invention can be formulated as liquid, pasty or solid preparations, for example as aqueous or alcoholic solutions, aqueous suspensions, hydrodispersions, oleogels, ointments, creams, gels, oils, powders or sticks.
  • active ingredients can be incorporated into the basics, which include, for example, oil components, fats and waxes, emulsifiers, anionic, cationic, ampholytic, zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactants, lower mono- and polyhydric alcohols, water, as further components. Contain preservatives, buffer substances, thickeners, fragrances, dyes and opacifiers.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations within the meaning of the present invention can contain the ingredients customary for the particular form and can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, furthermore for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair.
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present invention - depending on their structure - can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It is possibly possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis to use for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for. B. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation.
  • the preparations also advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants. It is advantageous to use antioxidants as the only class of active ingredient, for example when a cosmetic or dermatological application is in the foreground, such as. B. combating the oxidative stress on the skin. However, it is also advantageous to provide the preparations according to the invention with a content of one or more antioxidants if the preparations are to serve another purpose, for. B. as a sunscreen.
  • the antioxidants are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D. -Carnosine, L-carosene and their derivatives (e.g. Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles e.g. urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D. -Carnosine, L-carosene and their derivatives (e.g. An
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl -, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides , Nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulf oximine, buthionine sulfones, pent
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine
  • B. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg also (metal) -Che- catalysts (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives , unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.
  • ascorbyl palmitate Mg ascorbyl phosphate , Ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ⁇ -glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, Camosin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakh resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g.
  • ZnO, ZnSO 4 selenium and its derivatives (e.g. Selenomethionine), stilbene and their derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.
  • selenium and its derivatives e.g. Selenomethionine
  • stilbene and their derivatives e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
  • the derivatives suitable according to the invention salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of a sunscreen are particularly advantageous.
  • these preferably additionally contain at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance.
  • Such formulations can although not necessary, may contain other inorganic pigments as UV filter substances.
  • Inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (AI 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.
  • An additional content of stabilizing titanium dioxide and / or zinc oxide particles can of course also be advantageous, but is not necessary in the sense of the present invention.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of the filter substances, for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic purposes
  • the total amount of the filter substances for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic purposes
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand Parsol ® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand Parsol ® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid:
  • benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Tria - Zin), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH, and the 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris- benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-T-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone
  • UV filter substances which the structural motif
  • UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula is reproduced, whereby
  • R represents a branched or unbranched CrC 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more dC 4 alkyl groups,
  • X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group
  • Ri is a branched or unbranched CrCi ⁇ alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched CrC 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more dC - alkyl groups
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n is a number from 1 to 10 represents
  • R 2 represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 8 -alkyl radical, a C -C 2 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC - alkyl groups, if X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched C Ci 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
  • a particularly preferred UV filter substance for the purposes of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula
  • dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.
  • European laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used and whose chemical structure is represented by the generic formula
  • R ⁇ , R 2 and Ai represent a wide variety of organic radicals.
  • Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl carboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ - 6- [4
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • Tinosorb® M is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • the UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethyl! Hexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester
  • ⁇ esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • ⁇ salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself
  • ⁇ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as.
  • Another light protection filter substance which can advantageously be used according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinuf N 539 and is distinguished by the following structure:
  • the invention further relates to a cosmetic method for assessing the application amount of cosmetic and dermatological formulations on the skin, characterized in that effect pigments having an average particle size of 15 ⁇ m to 200 ⁇ m, which are incorporated into a cosmetic preparation, are applied to the skin and on the basis of the visible effect, estimates on which areas of the skin an application has already been made and / or whether sufficient preparation has been applied and / or when re-application has become necessary.

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of effect pigments with an average particle size of 15 mu m to 200 mu m for rendering cosmetic and dermatological formulations visible on the skin.

Description

Beschreibung description
Visualisierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln auf der HautVisualization of sunscreens on the skin
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft Verwendung von Pigmenten zur Sichtbarmachung von kosmetischen und dermatologischen Formulierungen, insbesondere kosmetischen und dermatologischen Lichtschutzformulierungen auf der Haut.The present invention relates to the use of pigments for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological formulations, in particular cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin.
Neben den positiven Auswirkungen des Sonnenlichtes, wie dem allgemeinen Wohlbefinden, der Bildung von Vitamin D3 und der Aknebehandlung, gibt es auch negative Auswirkungen, denen es entgegenzuwirken gilt.In addition to the positive effects of sunlight, such as general well-being, the formation of vitamin D3 and acne treatment, there are also negative effects that need to be counteracted.
Setzt man die Haut zu lange der Sonne oder einer künstlichen Strahlenquelle aus, so entwickelt sich nach einer Latenzzeit von 2 bis 3 Stunden eine gegen die unbestrahlte Haut stark abgegrenzte Hautrötung, das Erythema solare. Bei dem so entstehenden Sonnenbrand unterscheidet man zwischenIf you expose the skin to the sun or an artificial source of radiation for too long, after a latency period of 2 to 3 hours a reddening of the skin against the unexposed skin develops, the erythema solar. With the resulting sunburn, one differentiates between
■ 1. Grad: Erythem (Rötung, Wärmegefühl) klingt nach 2 bis 3 Tagen wieder ab und verschwindet unter gleichzeitig zunehmen- der Pigmentierung, ■ 1st grade: erythema (redness, warmth) sounds after 2 to 3 days again and disappears with the same time increasing the pigmentation,
■ 2. Grad: Blasenbildung auf der Haut bilden sich Blasen mit Brennen und Jucken, die Oberhaut wird flächig abgestoßen ■ 2nd degree: blistering on the skin forms blisters with burning and itching, the epidermis is pushed off flatly
■ 3. Grad: Zellschädigung es treten tiefgehende Zellschädigungen auf, der Körper reagiert mit Fieber, die ■ 3rd degree: cell damage there is profound cell damage, the body reacts with a fever that
Oberhaut wird großflächig abgestoßen. Der 2. und 3. Grad werden auch als Dermatitis solare bezeichnet. Die Bildung des Erythems ist abhängig von der Wellenlänge. Der Erythembereich des UV-B liegt zwischen 280 nm und 320 nm.Epidermis is repelled over a large area. The 2nd and 3rd degrees are also called solar dermatitis. The formation of the erythema depends on the wavelength. The erythema range of the UV-B is between 280 nm and 320 nm.
Etwa 90 % der auf die Erde gelangenden ultravioletten Strahlung besteht aus UV-A- Strahlen mit einer Wellenlänge zwischen 320 nm und 400 nm. Während die UV-B- Strahlung in Abhängigkeit von zahlreichen Faktoren stark variiert (z. B. Jahres- und Tageszeit oder Breitengrad), bleibt die UV-A-Strahlung unabhängig von Jahres- und tageszeitlichen oder geographischen Faktoren Tag für Tag relativ konstant. Gleichzeitig dringt der überwiegende Teil der UV-A-Strahlung in die lebende Epidermis ein, während etwa 70 % der UV-B-Strahlen von der Hornschicht zurückgehalten werden.About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm. While the UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. time of year and day) or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day, regardless of the time of year, time of day or geographical factors. At the same time, the majority of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer.
Man hat lange Zeit fälschlicherweise angenommen, daß die langwellige UV-A-Strahlung nur eine vernachlässigbare biologische Wirkung aufweist und daß dementsprechend die UV-B-Strahlen für die meisten Lichtschäden an der menschlichen Haut verantwortlich seien. Inzwischen ist allerdings durch zahlreiche Studien belegt, daß UV-A-Strahlung im Hinblick auf die Auslösung photodynamischer, speziell phototoxischer Reaktionen und chronischer Veränderungen der Haut weitaus gefährlicher als UV-B-Strahlung ist. Auch kann der schädigende Einfluß der UV-B-Strahlung durch UV-A-Strahlung noch verstärkt werden.It has long been erroneously assumed that long-wave UV-A radiation has only a negligible biological effect and that UV-B rays are accordingly responsible for most of the light damage to human skin. In the meantime, however, numerous studies have shown that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin. The damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be intensified by UV-A radiation.
Der Sonnenbrand bzw. das Lichterythem sind die akuten Erscheinungsformen der Lichteinwirkung. Darüber hinaus zeigt sich aber an besonders stark exponierten Hautpartien (Gesicht, Nacken, Hände) mit zunehmendem Alter aufgrund der damit in Zusammenhang stehenden hohen Gesamtdosis eine durch Strahlung hervorgerufene (ak- tinische) Veränderung der Haut. Die auffälligste chronische Lichtschädigung der Haut ist die aktinische oder senile Elastose. Makroskopisch äußert sie sich in einer Verdickung und Vergröberung der Haut, Faltenbildung, Verlust der Elastizität, Auftreten von gelblich druchschimmerden Einlagerungen und unregelmäßigen Pigmentanhäufungen. Die Oberhaut wird stellenweise dünn und zeigt warzige Wucherungen, die Lederhaut verliert ihre Elastizität und Spannung, das Wasserbindungsvermögen wird verringert. Zu den chronischen Lichtschäden, die als Spätfolgen auftreten, gehören ferner das maligne Melanom und im letzten Stadium die aktinische Keratose. Da die Beiträge der verschiedenen Wellenlängenbereiche des UV-Lichtes noch nicht vollständig geklärt sind, ist vorbeugender Schutz sowohl für den UV-A als auch den UV- B-Bereich, beispielsweise durch Auftrag von Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen in Form einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung auf die Haut, von entscheidender Bedeutung. Kosmetische Zubereitungen sollten die kritischen UV-A-Strahlen grundsätzlich stark absorbieren, nicht nur zum Schutz empfindlicher Haut beim Sonnenbaden, sondern auch für den allgemeinen Schutz bis hin zur Anwendung in einer normalen Hautcreme, da Hautalterung und Risiko des Hautkrebses wesentlich von diesem Teil des UV-Lichtes beeinflußt werden.The sunburn or the light erythema are the acute manifestations of the effect of light. In addition, however, particularly strongly exposed areas of the skin (face, neck, hands) show an aging (due to the radiation) of the skin caused by radiation due to the high total dose associated therewith. The most striking chronic light damage to the skin is actinic or senile elastosis. Macroscopically, it manifests itself in thickening and coarsening of the skin, wrinkling, loss of elasticity, the appearance of yellowish shimmering deposits and irregular pigment accumulations. The epidermis becomes thin in places and shows warty growths, the dermis loses its elasticity and tension, the water retention capacity is reduced. Chronic light damage that occurs as a late consequence also includes malignant melanoma and, in the last stage, actinic keratosis. Since the contributions of the various wavelength ranges of UV light have not yet been fully clarified, preventive protection is necessary for both the UV-A and the UV-B range, for example by applying light protection filter substances in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation to the skin, vital. Cosmetic preparations should fundamentally strongly absorb the critical UV-A rays, not only to protect sensitive skin when sunbathing, but also for general protection up to use in a normal skin cream, since skin aging and the risk of skin cancer are significantly different from this part of the UV -Light be influenced.
Der Nutzen eines Sonnenschutzpräparates besteht darin, die Zeit zu verlängern, die ein Verbraucher in der Sonne verbleiben kann, ohne Lichtschäden davonzutragen. Dabei sollte die Filterwirkung insbesondere für den UV-B-Bereich der individuellen Empfindlichkeit der Verbrauchers und der Intensität der Sonnenbestrahlung angepaßt sein.The benefit of a sunscreen preparation is to extend the amount of time that a consumer can stay in the sun without causing light damage. The filter effect should be adapted in particular for the UV-B range to the individual sensitivity of the consumer and the intensity of solar radiation.
Die Schwächung der Intensität des eingestrahlten Lichts und damit die Wirksamkeit einer Sonnenschutzformulierung sind unter anderem abhängig von der Schichtdicke der aufgetragenen Filtersubstanz. Mit steigender Schichtdicke erhöht sich auch die Wirksamkeit eines Sonnenschutzmittels. Es ist deshalb nur begrenzt möglich, durch Erhö- hung der Konzentration der UV-Filtersubstanz den Lichtschutzfaktor zu erhöhen. Besonders bei dünnflüssigen Zubereitungen wie Ölen oder alkoholischen Lösungen ist es darüber hinaus notwendig, ab einer gewissen Grenzkonzentration an Filtersubstanz auch die Viskosität der Formulierung und damit die erreichbare Schichtdicke auf der Haut zu erhöhen.The weakening of the intensity of the incident light and thus the effectiveness of a sun protection formulation depend, among other things, on the layer thickness of the applied filter substance. With increasing layer thickness, the effectiveness of a sunscreen also increases. It is therefore only possible to a limited extent to increase the sun protection factor by increasing the concentration of the UV filter substance. In particular in the case of low-viscosity preparations such as oils or alcoholic solutions, it is also necessary to increase the viscosity of the formulation and thus the achievable layer thickness on the skin from a certain limit concentration of filter substance.
Die mit einer speziellen Grundlage erreichte Schichtdicke ist ein sehr wichtiges Kriterium im Lichtschutz. Im allgemeinen nimmt der Lichtschutzfaktor in der Reihenfolge Öl < alkoholische Lösung < flüssige Emulsion < Creme < Paste zu. Ein weiterer wichtiger Parameter in diesem Zusammenhang ist ferner die Haftfähigkeit bzw. Wasserfestigkeit der Formulierungen auf der Haut. Die meisten Sonnenschutzmittel werden in Wassernähe oder bei sportlicher Betätigung (Schwitzen) angewendet. Ein wasserfestes Sonnenschutzmittel kann den Anwender nicht nur während des Badens, sondern auch nach dem Baden vor Sonnenbrand schützen, sofern es nicht zu stark abgewaschen wird. Der Stand der Technik kennt selbstverständlich eine Vielzahl verschiedener Lichtschutzformulierungen mit den unterschiedlichsten Lichtschutzfaktoren und Anwendungseigenschaften. Nachteil dieser üblichen Sonnenschutzmittel ist, daß der Anwender nach dem Eincremen weder erkennen kann, ob er alle der Strahlung ausgesetzten Körperteile mit einer schützenden Schicht bedeckt hat noch ob die Abdeckung der Haut in ausreichendem Maß erfolgt ist, d. h. ob die Schichtdicke ausreichend gewählt wurde. Ein weiterer Nachteil ist, daß der Anwender nicht verfolgen kann, wie sich die Schichtdicke des Sonnenschutzmittels verändert, beispielsweise durch Kontakt mit Wasser oder mechanische Belastungen wie Abtrocknen etc., und wann dementsprechend ein neues Eincremen erforderlich geworden ist.The layer thickness achieved with a special base is a very important criterion in light protection. In general, the sun protection factor increases in the order of oil <alcoholic solution <liquid emulsion <cream <paste. Another important parameter in this context is the adhesiveness or water resistance of the formulations on the skin. Most sunscreens are used near the water or during sporting activities (sweating). A waterproof sunscreen can protect the user from sunburn not only during bathing but also after bathing, provided it is not washed off too much. Of course, the prior art knows a large number of different light protection formulations with the most diverse light protection factors and application properties. The disadvantage of these conventional sunscreens is that after applying the cream, the user can neither see whether he has covered all parts of the body exposed to radiation with a protective layer, nor whether the skin has been adequately covered, ie whether the layer thickness has been chosen sufficiently. Another disadvantage is that the user cannot keep track of how the layer thickness of the sunscreen changes, for example due to contact with water or mechanical loads such as drying, etc., and accordingly when a new creaming has become necessary.
Dies kann im schlimmsten Fall zu einer verringerten Schutzwirkung der Produkte führen.In the worst case, this can lead to a reduced protective effect of the products.
Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war dementsprechend, den Nachteilen des Stan- des der Technik abzuhelfen und Möglichkeiten zu finden, kosmetische und dermatologische Formulierungen, insbesondere kosmetische und dermatologische Sonnenschutzformulierungen auf der Haut zu visualisieren und so die Auftragung eines gleichmäßigen Films auf die Haut zu erleichtern.The object of the present invention was accordingly to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art and to find possibilities to visualize cosmetic and dermatological formulations, in particular cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations, on the skin and thus to facilitate the application of a uniform film to the skin.
Es war überraschend und für den Fachmann in keiner Weise vorhersehbar, daß die Verwendung von Effektpigmenten mit einer mittleren Partikelgröße von 15 μm bis 150 μm zur Sichtbarmachung von kosmetischen und dermatologischen Formulierungen auf der Haut den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen würde.It was surprising and in no way foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the use of effect pigments with an average particle size of 15 μm to 150 μm to make cosmetic and dermatological formulations visible on the skin would remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
Zwar kennt der Stand der Technik Lichtschutzzubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Pigmenten. Dabei dienen die Pigmente als sogenannte physikalische UV-Filter, welche das einfallende Licht reflektieren und so eine Lichtschutzwirkung entfalten. Allerdings werden Zubereitungen dieser Art so formuliert, daß sie transparent und auf der Haut nicht sichtbar sind, da das sogenannte Weißein (die physikalischen Filter sind in der Regel anorganische Metalloxide) aus kosmetischer Sicht unerwünscht ist und vom Verbraucher nicht akzeptiert wird. Dementsprechend konnte der Stand der Technik nicht den Weg zur vorliegenden Erfindung weisen. Unter Effektpigment sind im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung solche Pigmente zu verstehen, die durch Lichtreflexionen insbesondere unter Sonnenbestrahlung zu einem glitzernden optischen Effekt (Glitter- oder Glimmereffekt) führen.The state of the art knows light protection preparations containing pigments. The pigments serve as so-called physical UV filters, which reflect the incident light and thus develop a light protection effect. However, preparations of this type are formulated in such a way that they are transparent and not visible on the skin, since the so-called whiteness (the physical filters are usually inorganic metal oxides) is undesirable from a cosmetic point of view and is not accepted by the consumer. Accordingly, the prior art could not point the way to the present invention. For the purposes of the present invention, effect pigment is to be understood as meaning those pigments which lead to a glittering optical effect (glitter or mica effect) as a result of light reflections, in particular under sunlight.
Vorteilhafte Effektpigmente im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Perlglanzpigmente. Bevorzugt sind insbesondere die im folgenden aufgelisteten Arten von Perlglanzpigmenten:Advantageous effect pigments in the sense of the present invention are, for example, pearlescent pigments. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
1. Natürliche Perlglanzpigmente, wie z. B.1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.
■ „Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und ■ "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and
■ „Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen) ■ "mother-of-pearl" (ground mussel shells)
2. Monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCI)2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)
3. Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer / Metalloxid3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
Basis für Perlglanzpigmente sind beispielsweise pulverförmige Pigmente oder Ricinusöl- dispersionen von Bismutoxychlorid und/oder Titandioxid sowie Bismutoxychlorid und/oder Titandioxid auf Glimmer. Auch solche Pigmente sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung. Insbesondere bevorzugt ist z. B. das unter der CIN 77163 aufgelistete Glanzpigment.Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Such pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. Particularly preferred is, for. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
Vorteilhaft sind ferner beispielsweise die folgenden Periglanzpigmentarten auf Basis von Glimmer/Metalloxid:The following types of pearlescent pigment based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:
l TiO2 / Berliner Blau tiefblau ! TiO2 / Car in rot l TiO 2 / Berlin blue deep blue ! TiO 2 / Car in red
Besonders bevorzugt sind z. B. die von der Firma Merck unter den Handelsnamen Timi- ron, Colorona oder Dichrona erhältlichen Perlglanzpigmente.Z are particularly preferred. B. the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
Die Liste der genannten Perlglanzpigmente soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein. Im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vorteilhafte Perlglanzpigmente sind auf zahlreichen, an sich bekannten Wegen erhältlich. Beispielsweise lassen sich auch andere Substrate außer Glimmer mit weiteren Metalloxiden beschichten, wie z. B. Silica und dergleichen mehr. Vorteilhaft sind z. B. mit TiO2 und Fe2O3 beschichtete SiO2-Partikel („Ronaspheren"), die von der Firma Merck vertrieben werden.The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. Are advantageous for. B. with TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck.
Es kann darüber hinaus von Vorteil sein, gänzlich auf ein Substrat wie Glimmer zu verzichten. Besonders bevorzugt sind Eisenperlglanzpigmente, welche ohne die Verwendung von Glimmer hergestellt werden. Solche Pigmente sind z. B. unter dem Handels- namen Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 bei der Firma BASF erhältlich.It can also be advantageous to do without a substrate such as mica. Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 from BASF.
Weiter vorteilhaft können Pigmente der Firma Engelhard/Mearl eingesetzt werden, welche auf Basis von Caicium Natrium Borosilikat mit Titandioxid beschichtet sind. Diese sind unter dem Handelsnamen Reflecks erhältlich. Sie weisen durch ihrer Partikelgröße von 40 bis 180 μm zusätzlich zu der Farbe einen Glitzereffekt auf.Pigments from Engelhard / Mearl, which are coated with titanium dioxide on the basis of calcium sodium borosilicate, can also be used advantageously. These are available under the trade name Reflecks. Due to their particle size of 40 to 180 μm, they have a glitter effect in addition to the color.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind ferner Effektpigmente, welche unter der Handelsbezeichnung Metasomes Standard / Glitter in verschiedenen Farben (yello, red, green, blue) von der Firma Flora Tech erhältlich sind. Die Glitterpartikel liegen hierbei in Gemischen mit verschiedenen Hilfs- und Farbstoffen (wie beispielsweise den Farbstoffen mit den Colour Index (Cl) Nummern 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491) vor.Also particularly advantageous are effect pigments, which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue). The glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
Die erfindungsgemäßen Effektpigmente haben vorteilhaft eine mittleren Partikelgröße von 15 μm bis 200 μm, besonders vorteilhaft 50 μm bis 150 μm, insbesondere 100 μm bis 150 μm. Die Effektpigmente können sowohl einzeln als auch im Gemisch vorliegen sowie gegenseitig miteinander beschichtet sein, wobei durch unterschiedliche Beschichtungsdicken im allgemeinen verschiedene Farbeffekte hervorgerufen werden. Die Gesamtmenge der Pigmente wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von z. B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vor- zugsweise von 0,5 bis 15 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 1,0 bis 10 Gew.-% gewählt, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The effect pigments according to the invention advantageously have an average particle size of 15 μm to 200 μm, particularly advantageously 50 μm to 150 μm, in particular 100 μm to 150 μm. The effect pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be coated with one another, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses. The total amount of pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations ,
Die kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bevorzugt neben einer oder mehrerer Ölphasen zusätzlich eine oder mehrere Wasserphasen enthalten und beispielsweise in Form von W/O-, O/W-, W/O/W-, O/W/O- oder weiteren multiplen Emulsionen vorliegen. Solche Emulsionen können vorzugsweise auch eine Mikroemulsion, eine Pickering-Emulsion oder eine sprühbare Emulsion sein.The cosmetic or dermatological formulations in the sense of the present invention can preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases, one or more water phases and, for example, in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W, O / W / O - or other multiple emulsions. Such emulsions can preferably also be a microemulsion, a Pickering emulsion or a sprayable emulsion.
Die Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können als flüssige, pastöse oder feste Zubereitungen formuliert werden, beispielsweise als wäßrige oder alkoholische Lösungen, wäßrige Suspensionen, Hydrodispersionen, Oleogele, Salben, Cremes, Gele, Öle, Pulver oder Stifte. In Abhängigkeit von der gewünschten Formulierung können Wirkstoffe in die Grundlagen eingearbeitet werden, die als weitere Komponenten beispielsweise Ölkomponenten, Fette und Wachse, E ulgatoren, anionische, kationische, ampholytische, zwitterionische und/oder nichtionogene Tenside, niedere ein- und mehrwertige Alkohole, Wasser, Konservierungsmittel, Puffersubstanzen, Verdickungs- mittel, Duftstoffe, Farbstoffe und Trübungsmittel enthalten.The preparations within the meaning of the present invention can be formulated as liquid, pasty or solid preparations, for example as aqueous or alcoholic solutions, aqueous suspensions, hydrodispersions, oleogels, ointments, creams, gels, oils, powders or sticks. Depending on the desired formulation, active ingredients can be incorporated into the basics, which include, for example, oil components, fats and waxes, emulsifiers, anionic, cationic, ampholytic, zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactants, lower mono- and polyhydric alcohols, water, as further components. Contain preservatives, buffer substances, thickeners, fragrances, dyes and opacifiers.
Die kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Formulierungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können die für die jeweilige Form üblichen Inhaltsstoffe enthalten und dem kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Lichtschutz, ferner zur Behandlung, der Pflege und der Reinigung der Haut und/oder der Haare dienen. Entsprechend können kosmetische oder topische dermatologische Zusammensetzungen im Sinne der vorlie- genden Erfindung - je nach ihrem Aufbau - beispielsweise verwendet werden als Hautschutzcreme, Reinigungsmilch, Sonnenschutzlotion, Nährcreme, Tages- oder Nachtcreme usw. Es ist gegebenenfalls möglich und vorteilhaft, die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen als Grundlage für pharmazeutische Formulierungen zu verwenden. Zur Anwendung werden die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen in der für Kosmetika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht.The cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations within the meaning of the present invention can contain the ingredients customary for the particular form and can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, furthermore for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair. Correspondingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present invention - depending on their structure - can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It is possibly possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis to use for pharmaceutical formulations. For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können ferner kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z. B. Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen oder andere übli- ehe Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for. B. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation.
Erfindungsgemäß enthalten die Zubereitungen ferner vorteilhaft eines oder mehrere An- tioxidantien. Als günstige, aber dennoch fakultativ zu verwendende Antioxidantien können alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder ge- bräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden. Es ist dabei vorteilhaft, Antioxidantien als einzige Wirkstoffklasse zu verwenden, etwa dann, wenn eine kosmetische oder dermatologische Anwendung, im Vordergrund steht, wie z. B. die Bekämpfung der oxidati- ven Beanspruchung der Haut. Es ist aber auch günstig, die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an einem oder mehreren Antioxidantien zu versehen, wenn die Zubereitungen einem anderen Zweck dienen sollen, z. B. als Sonnenschutzmittel.According to the invention, the preparations also advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants. It is advantageous to use antioxidants as the only class of active ingredient, for example when a cosmetic or dermatological application is in the foreground, such as. B. combating the oxidative stress on the skin. However, it is also advantageous to provide the preparations according to the invention with a content of one or more antioxidants if the preparations are to serve another purpose, for. B. as a sunscreen.
Besonders vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z. B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z. B. Urocaninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Carnosin, D-Carnosin, L-Car- nosin und deren Derivate (z. B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z. B. α-Carotin, ß-Caro- tin, Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z. B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N- Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthio- dipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nu- kleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z. B. Buthioninsulfoxi- mine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z. B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Che- latoren (z. B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), α-Hydroxy- säuren (z. B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z. B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Deri- vate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z. B. Ascor- bylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z. B. Vitamin- E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin-A-palmitat) sowie Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α-Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfuryli- denglucitol, Camosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäu- re, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z. B. ZnO, ZnSO4), Selen und dessen Derivate (z. B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z. B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.The antioxidants are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D. -Carnosine, L-carosene and their derivatives (e.g. Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl -, Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides , Nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulf oximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. B. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) -Che- catalysts (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives , unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate , Ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, Camosin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakh resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO 4 ), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. Selenomethionine), stilbene and their derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.
Die Menge der vorgenannten Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Sofern Vitamin A, bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
Günstig sind insbesondere kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen, die in der Form eines Sonnenschutzmittels vorliegen. Vorzugsweise enthalten diese neben den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Pigmenten zusätzlich mindestens eine UV-A-Filtersub- stanz und/oder mindestens eine UV-B-Filtersubstanz. Solche Formulierungen können, obgleich nicht notwendig, gegebenenfalls weitere anorganische Pigmente als UV-Filtersubstanzen enthalten.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of a sunscreen are particularly advantageous. In addition to the pigments used according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance. Such formulations can although not necessary, may contain other inorganic pigments as UV filter substances.
Bevorzugt sind anorganische Pigmente auf Basis von Metalloxiden und/oder anderen in Wasser schwerlöslichen oder unlöslichen Metallverbindungen, insbesondere der Oxide des Titans (TiO2), Zinks (ZnO), Eisens (z. B. Fe2O3), Zirkoniums (ZrO2), Siliciums (SiO2), Mangans (z. B. MnO), Aluminiums (AI2O3), Cers (z. B. Ce2O3), Mischoxiden der entsprechenden Metalle sowie Abmischungen aus solchen Oxiden.Inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (AI 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.
Auch ein zusätzlicher Gehalt an stabilisierend wirkenden Titandioxid- und/oder Zinkoxidpartikeln kann selbstverständlich vorteilhaft sein, ist aber im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung nicht notwendig.An additional content of stabilizing titanium dioxide and / or zinc oxide particles can of course also be advantageous, but is not necessary in the sense of the present invention.
Es ist auch vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindungen, solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen zu erstellen, deren hauptsächlicher Zweck nicht der Schutz vor Sonnenlicht ist, die aber dennoch einen Gehalt an UV-Schutzsubstanzen enthalten. So werden z. B. in Tagescremes gewöhnlich UV-A- bzw. UV-B-Filtersubstan- zen eingearbeitet.It is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to create cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. So z. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
Auch stellen UV-Schutzsubstanzen, ebenso wie Antioxidantien und, gewünschtenfalls, Konservierungsstoffe, einen wirksamen Schutz der Zubereitungen selbst gegen Verderb dar.UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
Vorteilhaft enthalten erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen Substanzen, die UV-Strahlung im UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Filtersubstanzen z. B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 ,0 bis 15,0 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die das Haar bzw. die Haut vor dem gesamten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen. Sie können auch als Son- nenschutzmittel fürs Haar oder die Haut dienen.Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of the filter substances, for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic purposes To provide preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreens for the hair or skin.
Vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Dibenzoyl- methanderivate, insbesondere das 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), welches von Givaudan unter der Marke Parsol® 1789 und von Merck unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex® 9020 verkauft wird.Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand Parsol ® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
Weitere vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen sind die Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)- 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure:Other advantageous UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid:
und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolam- monium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasul- fonsäure-bis-natriumsalz: and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid-bis sodium salt:
sowie das 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol und dessen Salze (besonders die entsprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1 ,4-di(2-oxo-3- bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird und sich durch die folgende Struktur auszeichnet: and the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), the is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:
Vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner sogenannte Breitbandfilter, d.h. Filtersubstanzen, die sowohl UV-A- als auch UV-B-Strahlung absorbieren. Vorteilhafte Breitbandfilter oder UV-B-Filtersubstanzen sind beispielsweise Bis-Resorci- nyltriazinderivate mit der folgenden Struktur:Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation. Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:
wobei R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen bzw. ein einzelnes Wasserstoffatom darstellen. Insbesondere bevorzugt sind das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2- Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Tria- zin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist, und das 4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure- tris(2-ethylhexylester), synonym: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-T-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5- triazin (INCI: Octyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird.where R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Tria - Zin), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH, and the 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris- benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-T-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone ), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
Auch andere UV-Filtersubstanzen, welche das StrukturmotivAlso other UV filter substances, which the structural motif
aufweisen, sind vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, beispielsweise die in der Europäischen Offenlegungsschrift EP 570 838 A1 beschriebenen s-Triazinderivate, deren chemische Struktur durch die generische Formel wiedergegeben wird, wobei are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula is reproduced, whereby
R einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrCι8-Alkylrest, einen C5-Cι2-Cycloalkyl- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren d-C4- Alkylgruppen, darstellt,R represents a branched or unbranched CrC 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more dC 4 alkyl groups,
X ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine NH-Gruppe darstellt,X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
Ri einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrCiβ-Alkylrest, einen C5-Cι2-Cycloalkyl- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C C - Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoff atom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der FormelRi is a branched or unbranched CrCiβ alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
bedeutet, in welcher means in which
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrC18-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cyclo- alkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren d-C - Alkylgruppen, R3 ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt, n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt, R2 einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten Cι-Cι8-Alkylrest, einen C -Cι2-Cycloalkyl- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C C - Alkylgruppen, darstellt, wenn X die NH-Gruppe darstellt, und einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C Ci8-Alkylrest, einen C5-Cι2-Cycloalkyl- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C C4- Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoff atom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der FormelA represents a branched or unbranched CrC 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more dC - alkyl groups, R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n is a number from 1 to 10 represents, R 2 represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 8 -alkyl radical, a C -C 2 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC - alkyl groups, if X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched C Ci 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
bedeutet, in welcher means in which
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten Cι-Cι8-Alkylrest, einen C5-Cι2-Cyclo- alkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren Cι-C4- Alkylgruppen,A represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups,
R3 ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt, n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt, wenn X ein Sauerstoffatom darstellt.R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
Besonders bevorzugte UV-Filtersubstanz im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist femer ein unsymmetrisch substituiertes s-Triazin, dessen chemische Struktur durch die FormelA particularly preferred UV filter substance for the purposes of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula
wiedergegeben wird, welches im Folgenden auch als Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone) bezeichnet wird und unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVA- SORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist. Auch in der Europäischen Offenlegungsschrift 775 698 werden bevorzugt einzusetzende Bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivate beschrieben, deren chemische Struktur durch die generische Formel is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V. European laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used and whose chemical structure is represented by the generic formula
wiedergegeben wird, wobei R^ , R2 und Ai verschiedenste organische Reste repräsentieren. is reproduced, wherein R ^, R 2 and Ai represent a wide variety of organic radicals.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-sulfonato)- 2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin Natriumsalz, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-(2-Propyloxy)-2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxy- phenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-[4-(2-meth- oxyethyl-carboxyl)-phenylamino]-1 ,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hy- droxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-[4-(2-ethyl-carboxyl)-phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl)-1 ,3,5-tri- azin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-tris(trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxy- phenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2"-methylpropenyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-me- thoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin und das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(1\1\1\3\5\5\5'-Heptamethylsiloxy-2"- methyl-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin.Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl carboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} - 6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4- methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 \ 1 \ 1 \ 3 \ 5 \ 5 \ 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 "- methyl-propyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.
Ein vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist das 2,2'-Methy- len-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol), welches durch die chemische Strukturformel An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
gekennzeichnet ist und unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist. and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
Vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ferner das 2-(2H- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]di- siloxanyl]propyl]-phenol (CAS-Nr.: 155633-54-8) mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Drometrizole Trisiloxane, welches durch die chemische StrukturformelAnother advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
gekennzeichnet ist is marked
Die UV-B-Filter können öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. Vorteilhafte öllösliche UV-B- Filtersubstanzen sind z. B.:The UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:
■ 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher; ■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
■ 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethy!hexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester; ■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethyl! Hexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
■ 2,4,6-Trianilino-(ρ-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin; ■ 2,4,6-trianilino- (ρ-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
■ Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethyl- hexyl)ester; ■ Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Meth- oxyzimtsäureisopentylester; ■ esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester; ■ esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
■ Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon ■ sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter. ■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone ■ and UV filters bound to polymers.
Vorteilhafte wasserlösliche UV-B-Filtersubstanzen sind z. B.:Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:
■ Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Tri- ethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst; ■ Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornyliden- methyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze. ■ salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself; ■ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
Eine weitere erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zu verwendende Lichtschutzfiltersubstanz ist das Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylen), welches von BASF unter der Bezeichnung Uvinuf N 539 erhältlich ist und sich durch folgende Struktur auszeichnet:Another light protection filter substance which can advantageously be used according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinuf N 539 and is distinguished by the following structure:
Es kann auch von erheblichem Vorteil sein, polymergebundene oder polymere UV-Filter- Substanzen in Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, insbesondere solche, wie sie in der WO-A-92/20690 beschrieben werden.It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.
Ferner kann es gegebenenfalls von Vorteil sein, erfindungsgemäß weitere UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Filter in kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen einzuarbei- ten, beispielsweise bestimmte Salieylsäurederivate wie 4-lsopropylbenzylsalicylat, 2- Ethylhexylsalicylat (= Octylsalicylat), Homomenthylsalicylat. Die Liste der genannten UV-Filter, die im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to incorporate further UV-A and / or UV-B filters in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example certain salieyl acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2-ethylhexylsalicylate (= octylsalicylate), homomenthylsalicylate. The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.
Gegenstand der Erfindung ist ferner ein kosmetisches Verfahren zur Beurteilung der Auftragsmenge von kosmetischen und dermatologischen Formulierungen auf der Haut dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß man Effektpigmente mit einer mittleren Partikelgröße von 15 μm bis 200 μm, welche in eine kosmetische Zubereitung eingearbeitet sind, auf die Haut aufträgt und anhand des sichtbaren Effekts abschätzt, auf welchen Hautpartien bereits ein Auftrag stattgefunden hat und/oder ob genügend Zubereitung aufgetragen worden ist und/oder wann ein erneutes Auftragen erforderlich geworden ist.The invention further relates to a cosmetic method for assessing the application amount of cosmetic and dermatological formulations on the skin, characterized in that effect pigments having an average particle size of 15 μm to 200 μm, which are incorporated into a cosmetic preparation, are applied to the skin and on the basis of the visible effect, estimates on which areas of the skin an application has already been made and / or whether sufficient preparation has been applied and / or when re-application has become necessary.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Die Zahlenwerte in den Beispielen bedeuten Gewichtsprozente, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der jeweiligen Zubereitungen. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.
Beispiele:Examples:
Beispiel 1example 1
O/W-LotionO / W Lotion
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Glycerylstearat SE 3,50Glyceryl stearate SE 3.50
Stearinsäure 1,80Stearic acid 1.80
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Cetylstearylalkohol 0,50Cetylstearyl alcohol 0.50
Octyldodecanol 7,00Octyldodecanol 7.00
Dicaprylylether 8,00Dicaprylyl ether 8.00
4,4\4n-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure- 3,00 tris(2-ethylhexylester)4,4 \ 4 n - (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid-3.00 tris (2-ethylhexyl ester)
Aerosil® 1,00Aerosil® 1.00
Effektpigment 4,00Effect pigment 4.00
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,20Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.20
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Water, demin. ad 100.00
Beispiel 2Example 2
O/W-LotionO / W Lotion
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Glycerylstearat SE 3,00Glyceryl stearate SE 3.00
Stearinsäure 2,00Stearic acid 2.00
Glycerin 10,00Glycerin 10.00
Cetylstearylalkohol 0,50Cetylstearyl alcohol 0.50
Octyldodecanol 6,00Octyldodecanol 6.00
Dicaprylylether 8,00Dicaprylyl ether 8.00
4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure- 5,00 tris(2-ethylhexylester)4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid - 5.00 tris (2-ethylhexyl ester)
Aerosil® 0,50Aerosil® 0.50
Effektpigment 6,00Effect pigment 6.00
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,20Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.20
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Water, demin. ad 100.00
Beispiel 3Example 3
Hydrodispersionsgelhydrodispersion
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Pemulen® TR-1 0,50Pemulen® TR-1 0.50
Ethanol 3,50Ethanol 3.50
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Dimethicon 1 ,50Dimethicone 1, 50
Octyldodecanol 0,50Octyldodecanol 0.50
Capryl-Caprinsäure-triglycerid 5,00Caprylic capric acid triglyceride 5.00
Effektpigment 7,00Effect pigment 7.00
4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure- 5,00 tris(2-ethylhexylester)4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid - 5.00 tris (2-ethylhexyl ester)
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,55Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.55
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Water, demin. ad 100.00
Beispiel 4Example 4
Emulgatorfreie Sonnenlotion SPF 30Emulsifier-free sun lotion SPF 30
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Caprylic/Capric-Triglyderide 30,00Caprylic / Capric triglyderide 30.00
4,4',4"-(1 ,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure- 4,00 tris(2-ethylhexylester)4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid 4.00 tris (2-ethylhexyl ester)
Methylbenzylidencampher 2,00Methylbenzylidene camphor 2.00
Ethylhexylsalicylat 5,00Ethyl hexyl salicylate 5.00
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 2,00Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 2.00
Eusolex T2000 4,00Eusolex T2000 4.00
Aerosil® R972 2,00Aerosil® R972 2.00
Effektpigment 5,00Effect pigment 5.00
Zinkoxid Neutral 2,50Zinc oxide neutral 2.50
Cetylhydroxyethylcellulose 0,50Cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose 0.50
Glycerin 10,00Glycerin 10.00
Wasser ad 100,00 Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 5 O/W-CremeExample 5 O / W cream
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Glycerylstearat SE 3,50Glyceryl stearate SE 3.50
Stearinsäure 3,50Stearic acid 3.50
Butylenglykol 5,00Butylene glycol 5.00
Cetylstearylalkohol 3,00Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00
Ci C« Alkylbenzoate 10,00Ci C «alkyl benzoates 10.00
Dioctylbutylamidotriazon 4,00Dioctylbutylamidotriazon 4.00
Aerosil® 3,00Aerosil® 3.00
Effektpigment 10,00Effect pigment 10.00
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,35Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.35
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s. Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Perfume qs water, demin. ad 100.00
Beispiel 6Example 6
W/O-LotionW / O Lotion
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Polyglyceryl-2-Polyhydroxystearat 3,50Polyglyceryl-2-polyhydroxystearate 3.50
Polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearat 3,50Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate 3.50
Butylenglykol 5,00Butylene glycol 5.00
Ceresin 3,00Ceresin 3.00
Cι2-C15 Alkylbenzoate 10,00Cι 2 -C 15 alkyl benzoates 10.00
4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure- 4,00 tris(2-ethylhexylester)4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid 4.00 tris (2-ethylhexyl ester)
Effektpigment 8,00Effect pigment 8.00
Vaseline 2,00Vaseline 2.00
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,35Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.35
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Water, demin. ad 100.00
Beispiel 7Example 7
O/W-LotionO / W Lotion
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Glycerylstearat SE 3,50Glyceryl stearate SE 3.50
Stearinsäure 1 ,80Stearic acid 1, 80
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Cetylstearylalkohol 0,50Cetylstearyl alcohol 0.50
Octyldodecanol 7,00Octyldodecanol 7.00
Dicaprylylether 8,00Dicaprylyl ether 8.00
4,4,,4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure- 3,00 tris(2-ethylhexylester) 4,4, 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid 3.00 tris (2-ethylhexyl)
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 2,00Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 2.00
Methylbenzylidencampher 1,00Methylbenzylidene camphor 1.00
TiO2 2,00TiO 2 2.00
Effektpigment 5,00Effect pigment 5.00
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,20Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.20
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Water, demin. ad 100.00
Beispiel 8Example 8
Hydrodispersionsgelhydrodispersion
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Acrylat/C10-3o-Alkyl Acrylat Crosspolymer 0,50Acrylate / C 10-3 o-alkyl acrylate cross polymer 0.50
Ethanol 3,50Ethanol 3.50
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Dimethicon 1 ,50Dimethicone 1, 50
Octyldodecanol 0,50Octyldodecanol 0.50
Capryl-Caprinsäure-triglycerid 5,00Caprylic capric acid triglyceride 5.00
Aerosil® 2,00Aerosil® 2.00
2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4- 5,00 methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4- 5.00 methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 2,00Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 2.00
Methylbenzylidencampher 1,00Methylbenzylidene camphor 1.00
Effektpigment 9,00Effect pigment 9.00
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,55Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.55
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Water, demin. ad 100.00
Beispiel 9 O W-CremeExample 9 O W Cream
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Glycerylstearat SE 3,50Glyceryl stearate SE 3.50
Stearinsäure 3,50Stearic acid 3.50
Butylenglykol 5,00Butylene glycol 5.00
Cetylstearylalkohol 3,00Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00
Cι2-C15 Alkylbenzoate 10,00Cι 2 -C 15 alkyl benzoates 10.00
Uvinul®T150 4,00Uvinul®T150 4.00
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 2,00Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 2.00
Methylbenzylidencampher 1 ,00Methylbenzylidene camphor 1.00
Effektpigment 4,00Effect pigment 4.00
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,35Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.35
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s. Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Perfume qs water, demin. ad 100.00
Beispiel 10 W/O-LotionExample 10 W / O lotion
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Polyglyceryl-2-Polyhydroxystearat 3,50Polyglyceryl-2-polyhydroxystearate 3.50
Polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearat 3,50Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate 3.50
Butylenglykol 5,00Butylene glycol 5.00
Ceresin 3,00Ceresin 3.00
C12-C15 Alkylbenzoate 10,00C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates 10.00
Triazin 4,00Triazine 4.00
Effektpigment 7,00Effect pigment 7.00
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 2,00Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 2.00
Methylbenzylidencampher 1 ,00Methylbenzylidene camphor 1.00
TiO2 2,00TiO 2 2.00
Vaseline 2,00Vaseline 2.00
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,35Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.35
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s. Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Perfume qs water, demin. ad 100.00
Beispiel 11 O/W-LotionExample 11 O / W Lotion
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Glycerylstearat SE 3,00Glyceryl stearate SE 3.00
Stearinsäure 2,00Stearic acid 2.00
Glycerin 10,00Glycerin 10.00
Cetylstearylalkohol 0,50Cetylstearyl alcohol 0.50
Octyldodecanol 7,00Octyldodecanol 7.00
Dicaprylylether 8,00Dicaprylyl ether 8.00
4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4)6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure- 3,00 tris(2-ethylhexylester)4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4 ) 6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid 3.00 tris (2-ethylhexyl ester)
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2,00Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2.00
Aerosil® 1,00Aerosil® 1.00
Metasomes Standard / Glitter Blue 1 ,00Metasomes Standard / Glitter Blue 1, 00
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,20Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.20
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Water, demin. ad 100.00
Beispiel 12 HydrodispersionsgelExample 12 Hydrodispersion Gel
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Pemulen® TR-1 0,50Pemulen® TR-1 0.50
Ethanol 3,50Ethanol 3.50
Glycerin 8,00Glycerin 8.00
Dimethicon 1 ,50Dimethicone 1, 50
Octyldodecanol 0,50Octyldodecanol 0.50
Capryl-Caprinsäure-triglycerid 5,00Caprylic capric acid triglyceride 5.00
Metasomes Standard / Glitter Yellow 5,00Metasomes Standard / Glitter Yellow 5.00
4,4',4"-(1 ,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure- 5,00 tris(2-ethylhexylester)4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid 5.00 tris (2-ethylhexyl ester)
Methylbenzylidene Camphor 4,00Methylbenzylidene Camphor 4.00
Octocrylene 7,50Octocrylene 7.50
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,55Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.55
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s. Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Perfume qs water, demin. ad 100.00
Beispiel 13Example 13
Emulgatorfreie Sonnenlotion SPF 30Emulsifier-free sun lotion SPF 30
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Caprylic/Capric-Triglyderide 30,00Caprylic / Capric triglyderide 30.00
4,4',4"-(1 ,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure- 4,00 tris(2-ethylhexylester)4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid 4.00 tris (2-ethylhexyl ester)
Methylbenzylidencampher 2,00Methylbenzylidene camphor 2.00
Ethylhexylsalicylat 5,00Ethyl hexyl salicylate 5.00
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 2,00Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 2.00
Eusolex T2000 4,00Eusolex T2000 4.00
Aerosil® R972 2,00Aerosil® R972 2.00
Metasomes Standard / Glitter Green 1,50Metasomes Standard / Glitter Green 1.50
Zinkoxid Neutral 2,50Zinc oxide neutral 2.50
Cetylhydroxyethylcellulose 0,50Cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose 0.50
Glycerin 10,00Glycerin 10.00
Wasser ad 100,00 Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 14Example 14
W/O-LotionW / O Lotion
Gew.-%Wt .-%
Polyglyceryl-2-Polyhydroxystearat 4,50Polyglyceryl-2-polyhydroxystearate 4.50
Polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearat 3,00Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate 3.00
Butylenglykol 5,00Butylene glycol 5.00
Ceresin 3,00Ceresin 3.00
Ci Cis Alkylbenzoate 10,00Ci Cis alkyl benzoates 10.00
4,4',4"-(1 ,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure- 4,00 tris(2-ethylhexylester)4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid 4.00 tris (2-ethylhexyl ester)
Titanium Dioxide 3,00Titanium Dioxide 3.00
Metasomes Standard / Glitter Red 4,00Metasomes Standard / Glitter Red 4.00
Vaseline 2,00Vaseline 2.00
Natriumhydroxid (45%ig) 0,35Sodium hydroxide (45%) 0.35
Konservierungsmittel q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Parfüm q.s.Perfume q.s.
Wasser, demin. ad 100,00 Water, demin. ad 100.00

Claims

Patentansprüche: claims:
1. Verwendung von Effektpigmenten mit einer mittleren Partikelgröße von 15 μm bis 200 μm zur Sichtbarmachung von kosmetischen und dermatologischen Formulie- rungen auf der Haut1. Use of effect pigments with an average particle size of 15 μm to 200 μm for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological formulations on the skin
2. Verwendung von Effektpigmenten mit einer mittleren Partikelgröße von 15 μm bis 200 μm zur Sichtbarmachung von kosmetischen und dermatologischen Lichtschutzformulierungen auf der Haut.2. Use of effect pigments with an average particle size of 15 μm to 200 μm for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin.
3. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die mittlere Partikelgröße der Effektpigmente aus dem Bereich von 50 μm bis 150 μm gewählt wird.3. Use according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the average particle size of the effect pigments is selected from the range from 50 microns to 150 microns.
4. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das oder die Effektpigmente aus der Gruppe der Perlglanzpigmente gewählt wird/werden.4. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the effect pigment or pigments is / are selected from the group of pearlescent pigments.
5. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Gesamtmenge des oder der Effektpigmente aus dem Bereich von5. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the effect pigment or pigments from the range of
0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-% gewählt wird, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-% is selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.
6. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die kosmetische oder dermatologische Formulierung mindestens eine6. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological formulation at least one
Substanz enthält, die UV-Strahlung im UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Bereich absorbiert.Contains substance that absorbs UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range.
7. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die kosmetische oder dermatologische Formulierung weitere anorganische Pig- mente enthält, die als UV-Filtersubstanzen dienen.7. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological formulation contains further inorganic pigments which serve as UV filter substances.
8. Verfahren zur Beurteilung der Auftragsmenge von kosmetischen und dermatologischen Formulierungen auf der Haut dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß man Effektpigmente mit einer mittleren Partikelgröße von 15 μm bis 200 μm, welche in eine kosmetische Zubereitung eingearbeitet sind, auf die Haut aufträgt und anhand des sichtbaren Effekts abschätzt, auf welchen Hautpartien bereits ein Auftrag stattgefunden hat und/oder ob genügend Zubereitung aufgetragen worden ist und/oder wann ein erneutes Auftragen erforderlich geworden ist. 8. A method for assessing the application amount of cosmetic and dermatological formulations on the skin, characterized in that effect pigments with an average particle size of 15 μm to 200 μm, which in a cosmetic preparation has been incorporated, applied to the skin and, on the basis of the visible effect, estimates which areas of the skin have already been applied and / or whether sufficient preparation has been applied and / or when reapplication has become necessary.
EP01969366A 2000-07-14 2001-07-11 Rendering sunscreen agents visible on the skin Withdrawn EP1301166A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10034332 2000-07-14
DE10034332A DE10034332A1 (en) 2000-07-14 2000-07-14 Visualization of sunscreen on the skin
PCT/EP2001/007983 WO2002005769A1 (en) 2000-07-14 2001-07-11 Rendering sunscreen agents visible on the skin

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JP2004503578A (en) 2004-02-05
DE10034332A1 (en) 2002-01-24

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