DE102004002611A1 - Visualization of sunscreen on the skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing stilbene and / or its derivatives.

Description

The The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological (Sunscreen) formulations containing stilbene and / or its derivatives and the use of stilbene and / or its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological formulations, in particular of cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations on the skin, in particular by means of activation by light.

Next the positive effects of sunlight, such as the general Well-being, the formation of vitamin D3 and acne treatment, There are also negative effects that have to be counteracted.

• • 1. Grad: Erythem (Rötung, Wärmegefühl) klingt nach 2 bis 3 Tagen wieder ab und verschwindet unter gleichzeitig zunehmender Pigmentierung,
• • 2. Grad: Blasenbildung auf der Haut bilden sich Blasen mit Brennen und Jucken, die Oberhaut wird flächig abgestoßen
• • 3. Grad: Zellschädigung es treten tiefgehende Zellschädigungen auf, der Körper reagiert mit Fieber, die Oberhaut wird großflächig abgestoßen.

If the skin is exposed too long to the sun or to an artificial source of radiation, after a latency period of 2 to 3 hours, reddening of the skin, the erythema solar, develops, which is strongly delimited against the unirradiated skin. In the resulting sunburn one differentiates between

• • 1st degree: erythema (redness, sensation of warmth) subsides after 2 to 3 days and disappears, accompanied by increasing pigmentation,
• • 2nd degree: Blistering on the skin, blisters with burning and itching develop, the epidermis is repelled flatly
• • 3rd degree: cell damage deep cell damage occurs, the body reacts with fever, the epidermis is repelled over a large area.

Of the 2nd and 3rd degree are also referred to as dermatitis solar.

The Formation of erythema is dependent from the wavelength. The erythema range of UV-B is between 280 nm and 320 nm.

Approximately There is 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth from UV-A rays with one wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm. During the UV-B radiation dependent on varies greatly depending on numerous factors (eg year and time of day) or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains independent of annual and daytime or geographical factors day by day relative constant. At the same time, most of the UV-A radiation penetrates into the living epidermis while About 70% of the UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer become.

you has been wrong for a long time assumed that the long-wave UV-A radiation only a negligible biological effect and that accordingly the UV-B rays for most photodamage responsible for the human skin. Meanwhile, though Numerous studies have shown that UV-A radiation in terms of on the trigger photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes the skin far more dangerous as UV-B radiation is. Also, the damaging influence of UV-B radiation reinforced by UV-A radiation become.

Of the Sunburn or light erythema are the acute manifestations the action of light. About that However, it also shows on particularly exposed skin areas (Face, neck, hands) with age due to the related high total dose of a radiation-induced (actinic) change of the skin. The most striking chronic light damage the skin is the actinic or senile elastosis. Macroscopically she expresses in a thickening and coarsening of the skin, wrinkling, Loss of elasticity, Appearance of yellowish-shimmering deposits and irregular pigment accumulations. The epidermis is thin in places and shows warty growths, the dermis loses its elasticity and tension, the water binding capacity is reduced. To the chronic photodamage, as late effects occur, belong also the malignant melanoma and in the last stage the actinic Keratosis.

There the posts the different wavelength ranges of UV light is not complete clarified are preventive protection for both the UV-A and the UV-B range, for example by application of sunscreen filter substances in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation on the skin, more crucial Importance. Cosmetic preparations should have the critical UV-A rays in principle Strongly absorb, not only to protect sensitive skin Sunbathing, but also for the general protection up to the application in a normal skin cream, As skin aging and risk of skin cancer significantly from this Part of the UV light affected become.

Of the Benefits of a sunscreen preparation is to extend the time, a consumer can remain in the sun without causing any damage to the light. The filter effect should especially for the UV-B range of the individual Sensitivity of the consumer and the intensity of sunlight customized be.

The weakening the intensity the radiated light and thus the effectiveness of a sunscreen formulation are dependent among other things of the layer thickness of the applied filter substance. With rising Layer thickness increased also the effectiveness of a sunscreen. Especially at low-viscosity preparations like oils or alcoholic solutions It is therefore necessary to start at a certain limit concentration Filter substance also the viscosity the formulation and thus the achievable layer thickness on the Increase skin. It is about it beyond only limited possible by raising the concentration of UV filter substance the sun protection factor increase.

The layer thickness achieved with a special basis is a very important criterion in sunscreen. In general, the sun protection factor decreases in the order oil <alcoholic solution <liquid emulsion <cream <paste too. Another important parameter in this context is also the adhesion or water resistance of the formulations on the skin. Most Sunscreens are close to water or during exercise (sweating) applied. A waterproof sunscreen can be the user not only during bathing, but also to protect from sunburn after bathing, provided it is not washed off too much.

Of the Of course, the prior art knows a variety of different Sunscreen formulations with a wide variety of sun protection factors and application properties. Disadvantage of this conventional sunscreen is that the After applying the cream, the user can neither tell if he has all of them Radiation exposed body parts with a protective Layer has still covered whether the cover of the skin in sufficient Measure done is, d. H. whether the layer thickness has been sufficiently selected. Another disadvantage is that the Users can not track how the layer thickness of the sunscreen changed for example, by contact with water or mechanical loads such as drying, etc., and when, accordingly, a new creaming has become necessary.

This can in the worst case to a reduced protective effect of Lead products.

Especially for children- and baby products is a high protection performance of the preparations Of particular importance as children due to the lower levels of light (Thickening of the horny layer) and reduced self-protection especially vulnerable for sunburns are and often play for hours on or in the water. Further is The more skin burns he experiences, the higher the skin cancer risk of an adult Child suffered.

simultaneously but it is common It is problematic to lighten children sufficiently, as they are usually very restless or are impatient and sunscreens with high SPF In addition, because of their usually higher viscosity only bad distribute. Furthermore is it for The parents generally find it difficult to tell when the sunscreen rubbed off or washed off and the children creamed again would have to be.

task Accordingly, the disadvantage of the present invention was the disadvantages of To remedy the prior art and to find ways to cosmetic and to visualize dermatological sunscreen formulations on the skin and so the application of a uniform film on the skin too facilitate.

Though DE-100 34 332-A1 describes the use of effect pigments with an average particle size of 15 μm to 200 μm for visualization of cosmetic and dermatological formulations on the skin. Furthermore, DE-100 35 512-A1 describes the use of dyes for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations on the skin. However, this state of the art could not do the Way to the present invention exhibit.

Disadvantage of these preparations is namely that the staining of the skin by means of an effect pigment or a dye is usually very intense and also durable, which is often annoying by the customer is felt. In addition, the hue of such products often deviates greatly from the usual skin color, which gives the user therefore an unnatural appearance.

When solution trial Although this problem describes both EP-941 051-B1 and EP 1 136 059 A2 colored Sonnenschutzemulsioen that characterized distinguish that the Color is essentially faded, when the sunscreen emulsion dries after being on the skin distributed and / or rubbed into the skin. However, it remains Here, too, the achieved effect behind the hoped-for back.

Accordingly The prior art could not pave the way for the present invention point.

After all, it was surprising and in no way foreseeable for the skilled person that
cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing stilbene and / or its derivatives
the disadvantages of the prior art would remedy.

The present invention is further the
Use of stilbene and / or its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations on the skin.

With Help of the present invention is surprisingly simple Way possible, To control the order amount of sunscreen, without disturbing a flashy and / or permanent staining the skin enters. Furthermore, based on the visual impression, the leave the formulations on the skin, both for the user myself as well as for Third parties, such as As parents, easily recognizable, which skin parts already with a protective one Layer are covered and where still (or again) required a creaming is. The visualization of the cosmetic is usually done directly with the eye, for example by the user the skin in question through a contrast amplifier considered.

The substances according to the invention absorb visible and / or UV light and then emit light, its wavelength is larger as that of the absorbed light. So they show an effective fluorescence in a longer wave Area. The difference between incident and emitted light can for example 2 to 100 nm.

When contrast enhancer For the purposes of the present invention, for. B. thin colored Kunstofffolien or even colored glasses serve, whereby the color of the contrast amplifier according to the color of the fluorescence is selected: Since blue films essentially permeable for blue ones Are radiation, they are suitable as contrast enhancers Visualization of substances that emit blue light etc.

In particular, according to the invention Also advantageous are those formulations which after application have a continuous decrease in fluorescence, for example because the fluorescent substances are photolabile and through the influence of Radiation to non-fluorescent substances are decomposed.

Stilben is characterized by the following structural formula:

• • 4,4'bis(2-sulfostyryl)-biphenyl Dinatrium-Salz erhältlich unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinopal CBS-X bei der Fa. CIBA
  
• • 4,4'bis(2-sulfostyryl)-biphenyl Dinatrium-Salz erhältlich unter der Handelsbezeichnung Uvitex NFW Liquid als aktiver Bestandteil dieser flüssigen Mischung bei der Fa. CIBA

Particularly advantageous derivatives of this compound according to the invention are:

• • 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) -biphenyl disodium salt available under the trade name Tinopal CBS-X from CIBA
  
• 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) -biphenyl disodium salt available under the trade name Uvitex NFW Liquid as an active ingredient of this liquid mixture from CIBA

The substances according to the invention can both individually and in a mixture. The total amount of substances according to the invention is advantageously from the range of 0.001 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 5 % By weight selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

It is very particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, when the substances of the invention present in encapsulated form. Advantageous are permanent encapsulations, d. H. Capsules from which the substances according to the invention do not enter the cosmetic preparation or the skin. It understands itself, that the Encapsulation for Light throughout have to be, so that both the absorbed and the emitted radiation through the capsule can penetrate.

A advantageous encapsulation consists of (chemically inert) plastics.

Further Advantageous are encapsulations that are based on sol-gel microtechnology available are. In this case, the substances according to the invention are in an inert Silica membrane included, ultimately encapsulated in glass beads. Advantageous in the context of the present invention can encapsulated substances according to the invention also in the form of aqueous dispersions be used.

encapsulated substances according to the invention are particularly suitable for the production of particularly skin-friendly (Sensitive) products. About that It goes without saying advantageous, potentially skin-irritating substances according to the invention to be used in encapsulated form.

It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention together with stilbene or one or more of its derivatives to use one or more substances that provide for a light path extension and / or introduced into the formulation with additional scattering and / or reflection centers that the To support effects of stilbene and / or its derivatives on the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations on the skin. Cosmetic formulations containing TiO ₂ and / or other pigments are particularly easily excited by light. As a result, even significantly lower levels of use of flavin and its derivatives are sufficient to achieve the desired effect. These substances are particularly advantageous from the group of reflective pigments, such as. As TiO ₂ and the like.

The Preparations for the purposes of the present invention may be preferred next to one or more oil phases additionally contain one or more water phases and, for example, in the form W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions. Such formulations can preferably also microemulsions, sticks, foams (so-called mousse), solid emulsions (i.e., emulsions which are stabilized by solids, e.g. B. Pickering emulsions), sprayable Be emulsions or hydrodispersions. Furthermore, the Preparations also oil-free and / or aqueous / alcoholic solutions be. It is preferred according to the invention if the formulations are waterproof.

Also (macroscopic) two- or multi-phase systems are advantageous according to the invention. "Two or multiphase "in the sense The present invention means that two or more phases are stacked separately layered present. It is particularly beneficial in terms of present invention, if at least one of the macroscopically visible Phases represents a (W / O, O / W, micro) emulsion. The emulsion is perceived as a phase in this (macroscopic) view, although it is the expert of course It is known that emulsions itself formed from two or more phases homogenized with each other become. The "emulsion phase" is long-term stable, so that it also over a longer one Period (months, years) not to a segregation respectively Phase separation occurs within the emulsion.

The macroscopically visible phases or layers can be advantageous - for example by shaking In the short term emulsify to a homogeneous emulsion, but which is not long-term stable, but rather over a period of minutes, Hours or days back to two or more stages stacked unmixed. It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present Invention, if at least one of the macroscopically visible phases a microemulsion and at least one other macroscopically visible phases an oil phase represents.

Sprayable emulsions, in particular microemulsions

Especially advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are sprayable O / W emulsions, especially O / W microemulsions.

The Droplet diameter the ordinary "simple", not non-multiple Emulsions are in the range of about 1 micron to about 50 microns. Such "macroemulsions" are, without further coloring Additions, milky white colored and opaque. Finer "macroemulsions" whose droplet diameter in the range of about 0.5 μm to approx. 1 μm lie, are, in turn, without coloring Additions, bluish white colored and opaque. Such "macroemulsions" usually have one high viscosity.

Of the Droplet diameter of microemulsions in the context of the present invention, however is in the range of about 50 to about 500 nm. Such microemulsions are colored bluish white to translucent and usually low viscosity. The viscosity of many Microemulsions of the O / W type are comparable to those of the water.

advantage of microemulsions is that in the disperse phase agents are much finer disperse can as in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions." Another advantage is, that you be sprayed better due to their low viscosity. If microemulsions are used as cosmetics, they are characterized Products characterized by high cosmetic elegance.

• • ihre Lipophilie ist abhängig von der Temperatur, dergestalt daß durch Erhöhung der Temperatur die Lipophilie zunimmt und durch Senkung der Temperatur die Lipophilie des Emulgators abnimmt.

Particularly advantageous according to the invention are O / W microemulsions which are obtainable with the aid of the so-called phase inversion temperature technology and contain at least one emulsifier (emulsifier A) which is selected from the group of emulsifiers having the following properties:

• • their lipophilicity is dependent on the temperature, such that increasing the temperature increases the lipophilicity and decreases the lipophilicity of the emulsifier by lowering the temperature.

advantageous Emulsifiers A are z. B. polyethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-150 Laurath, PEG-8 distearate and the like) and / or polyethoxylated fatty alcohols (cetearath-12, cetearath-20, isoceteth-20, Beheneth-20, Laureth-9, etc.) and / or alkylpolyglycosides (cetearyl Glycosides, stearyl glycosides, palmityl glycosides, etc.).

Provided the phase inversion essentially by varying the temperature are introduced O / W emulsions, in particular O / W microemulsions available, the size of the oil droplets in the essentially by the concentration of the emulsifier (s) used is determined, such that a higher Emulsifier concentration causes smaller droplets and lower Emulsifier concentration leads to larger droplets. The Droplet sizes are usually between 20 and 500 nm.

For the purposes of the present invention, it may be advantageous to use further W / O and / or O / W emulsifiers not covered by the definition of the emulsifier A, for example in order to increase the water resistance of the preparations according to the present invention. Here can z. B. alkylmethicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (especially cetyl dimethicone copolyol, lauryl methicone copolyol), w / o emulsifiers (such as sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate, glycerol stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, polyglyceryl dipolyhydroxystearate Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate -3, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, acrylates / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, , PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate) and / or fatty acid esters of sulfuric or phosphoric acid (cetyl phosphate, trilaureth-4 phosphate, trioleth-8-phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate etc. ) be used.

Further advantageous sprayable O / W emulsions for the purposes of the present invention are thin-bodied cosmetic or dermatological hydrodispersions containing at least one oil phase and contain at least one water phase, wherein the Zuberei tion by at least one gelling agent is stabilized and not necessarily Must contain emulsifiers, but may contain one or more emulsifiers.

Advantageous gelling agents for such formulations are, for example, copolymers of C _10-30 -alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". Particularly advantageous are the Pemulen ^® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from. Goodrich (Noveon).

Also Carbopols are advantageous gelling agents for such preparations. Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Advantageous carbopols are, for example, the types 907, 910, 934, 940, 941, 951, 954, 980, 981, 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. as well the ETD types 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez. 10. Further advantageous Gel former for Such preparations are xanthan gum, cellulose derivatives and Locust bean gum.

When possible (optional) emulsifiers can ethoxylated fatty alcohols or ethoxylated fatty acids (in particular PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-20) and / or other nonionic surfactants Substances are used.

• • mindestens einen Silikonemulgator (W/S) mit einem HLB-Wert ≤ 8 und/oder mindestens einen W/O-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert < 7 und
• • mindestens einen O/W-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert > 10 enthalten.

Furthermore, the very thin to sprayable emulsions may advantageously also be W / O or water-in-silicone oil (W / S) emulsions. Particularly advantageous are W / O or W / S emulsions, the

• • at least one silicone emulsifier (W / S) with an HLB value ≤ 8 and / or at least one W / O emulsifier with an HLB value <7 and
• • contain at least one O / W emulsifier with an HLB value> 10.

such Preparations also contain at least 20 wt .-% lipids, wherein the lipid phase also advantageously contain silicone oils or even completely can consist of such.

The one or more silicone emulsifiers can vorteilhaf from the group of alkylmethicone copolyols and / or alkyldimethicone copolyols is chosen (such. As dimethicone which from Goldschmidt AG under the tradenames ABIL ^® B 8842, ABIL ^® B 8843, ABIL ^® B 8847, ABIL ^® B, ABIL ^® B 8863, ABIL ^® B 8873 and ABIL ^® B sold 88183 8851, ABIL ^® B 8852, cetyl dimethicone [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL ^® EM 90], cyclomethicone dimethicone [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL ^® EM 97] lauryl [Dow Corning Ltd./Dow Corning ^® 5200 Formulation Aid], octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside [Wacker].

The one or more W / O emulsifiers having an HLB value <7 can advantageously be selected from the following group: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl lanolate, lanolin, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, pentaerythrityl isostearate, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose dioleate mixed with hydroxystearate wax and beeswax, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

Of the or the O / W emulsifiers with an HLB value> 10 may advantageously from the following group chosen glyceryl stearate mixed with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-6 mixed with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in Mixture with PEG-40-castor oil and sodium cetylstearylsulfate, Triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetylstearylsulfate, Lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-9 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, Ceteth-2, Ceteth-20, Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-65, Polysorbate-100, glyceryl stearate in admixture with PEG-100 stearate, Ceteareth-3, Isostearylglycerylether, Cetylstearylalkohol in the mixture with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, Polyglyceryl 2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, Methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-21, Steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, PEG-20-methyl glucose sesquistearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, Cetyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate, sorbitan sesquioleate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, Trilaureth-4 phosphate, Polyglyceryl methyl glucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth-10, Polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, ceteth-10, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and Cetyl palmitate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

Further advantageous are aqueous-alcoholic Solutions. You can from 0 wt .-% to 90 wt .-% ethanol. Aqueous-alcoholic solutions can be used in the Advantageously, according to the present invention also solubilizers included, such as PEG-40 or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.

The preparations according to the present invention may advantageously also be used as cosmetic or dermatological impregnation solutions with which, in particular, water-insoluble substrates, such as, for example, are used. As woven or non-woven cloths - moistened be used. Such impregnation solutions are preferably highly liquid, in particular sprayable (such as, for example, PIT emulsions, hydrodispersions, W / O emulsions, oils, aqueous solutions, etc.) and preferably have a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa.s, in particular less than 1500 mPa · s (measuring device: Haake Viskotester VT-02 at 25 ° C). With their help are at For example, cosmetic sunscreens, wipes and the like are available, which represent the combination of a soft, water-insoluble material with the thin liquid cosmetic and dermatological impregnation solution.

oils

The preparations according to the present invention may advantageously also be present as anhydrous oils or oil gels or pastes. Advantageous oils are z. For example, synthetic, semi-synthetic or natural oils such as rapeseed oil, rice oil, avocado oil, olive oil, mineral oil, cocoglycerides, butylenes Gylcol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyldodecanol and the like. As oil gel formers, a wide variety of waxes with a melting point> 25 ° C can be used. Also advantageous are gelling agents from the group of aerosils, alkyl galactomannans (eg N-Hance AG 200 and N-Hance AG 50 from Hercules) and polyethylene derivatives.

foams

Especially advantageous in the context of the present invention are also self-foaming, expanded, foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

Under "self-foaming", "foamy", "nachschäumend" or "foamable" are preparations too understand which foams - be it already during the manufacturing process, be it in the application by the consumer or otherwise - by Entry of one or more gases can be produced in principle. In such foams lie the gas bubbles (arbitrarily) distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), wherein the (foamed) Preparations macroscopically not necessarily the appearance have to have a foam. Inventive (foamed) cosmetic or dermatological preparations (hereinafter simplicity also as foams can be designated) z. B. macroscopically visible dispersed systems from in liquids represent dispersed gases. The foam character but can, for example also visible under a (light) microscope. In addition, are Foams according to the invention - in particular then, when the gas bubbles too small to be detected under a light microscope - even on recognizable by the strong volume increase of the system.

• A. mindestens einem Emulgator A, gewählt aus der Gruppe der ganz-, teil- oder nicht neutralisierten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• B. mindestens einem Emulgator B, gewählt aus der Gruppe der polyethoxylierten Fettsäurester mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen und mit einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 5 bis 100 und
• C. mindestens einem Coemulgator C, gewählt aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Fettalkohole mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen besteht.

According to the present invention, such preparations advantageously contain an emulsifier system which comprises

• A. at least one emulsifier A selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having a chain length of from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
• B. at least one emulsifier B, selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters having a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and having a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
• C. at least one co-emulsifier C, selected from the group of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols having a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms.

Of the or the emulsifiers A are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are completely or partly with usual Alkalis (such as, for example, sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or Potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine) neutralized are. For example, stearic acid and are particularly advantageous Stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates as well as myristic acid and myristates.

Of the or the emulsifiers B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. Especially advantageous For example, polyethoxylated stearic acid esters.

The co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected according to the invention from the following group: behenyl alcohol (C ₂₂ H ₄₅ OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C ₁₆ N ₃₃ OH) and stearyl alcohol (C ₁₈ H ₃₇ OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols representing the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax obtained after saponification of wool wax). Particularly preferred are cetyl and Cetylstearylalkohol.

It is advantageous according to the invention the weight ratios from emulsifier A to emulsifier B to co-emulsifier C (A: B: C) as well a: choose b: c, where a, b and c are independent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3 can represent. Particularly preferred is a weight ratio of about 1: 1: 1.

It is advantageous in the context of the present invention, the total amount the emulsifiers A and B and the co-emulsifier C from the range of 2 to 20 wt .-%, advantageously from 5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular of 7 to 13 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

Pickering / solids-stabilized emulsions

Especially Advantageous in the context of the present invention are also cosmetic or dermatological preparations, which only by finely divided Solid particles are stabilized. Such "emulsifier-free" emulsions are Also referred to as Pickering emulsions.

In Pickering emulsions lead to an accumulation of the solid at the phase boundary oil / water in the form of a layer, whereby a confluence of the disperse phases prevented becomes. Of particular importance in this case are the surface properties the solid particles which are both hydrophilic and lipophilic Should show properties.

Advantageous can the stabilizing solid particles also superficially water repellent be treated ("coated"), being a amphiphilic character of these solid particles are formed or should be preserved. The surface treatment may consist of that the Solid particles according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic or hydrophilic layer.

Of the mean particle diameter of the microfine used as a stabilizer Solid particles are preferably smaller than 100 μm, especially advantageously smaller than 50μm selected. It is essentially irrelevant in which form (platelets, Rod, globule etc.) or modification of the solid particles used are present.

• • Titandioxide (gecoatet und ungecoatet): z. B. Eusolex T-2000 von der Fa. Merck, Titandioxid MT-100 Z von der Fa. Tayca Corporation
• • Zinkoxide z. B. Z-Cote und Z-Cote HP1 von der BASF AG, MZ-300, MZ-500 und MZ-505M von der Fa. Tayca Corporation
• • Eisenoxide

Preferably, the microfine particulates are selected from the group of amphiphilic metal oxide pigments. Particularly advantageous are:

• Titanium dioxides (coated and uncoated): z. Eusolex T-2000 from Merck, titanium dioxide MT-100 Z from Tayca Corporation
• • zinc oxides z. B. Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP1 from BASF AG, MZ-300, MZ-500 and MZ-505M from Tayca Corporation
• • iron oxides

Of Further, it is advantageous if the microfine solid particles selected from the following group are: boron nitrides, starch derivatives (Tapioca Starch, Sodium Corn Starch Octynylsuccinate etc.), talc, latex particles.

It is advantageous according to the invention when the solids-stabilized emulsions significantly less than 0.5 wt .-% of one or more emulsifiers or even completely are emulsifier-free.

pencils

Farther advantageous in the context of the invention are preparations in the form of Pins. Technically, most pen formulations are anhydrous fat blends of solid or semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, wherein highly purified paraffin oils and -wachse represent the Stiftgrundmasse.

Typical base materials for stick-form preparations are, for example, liquid oils (such as, for example, paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate), semi-solid constituents (eg petrolatum, lanolin), solid constituents (eg beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite) and / or refractory waxes (eg carnauba wax, candelilla wax). Also hydrous stick-shaped preparations are known per se, which may also be in the form of W / O emulsions.

The cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen formulations according to the invention may, like be commonly used and the cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen, further for the treatment, care and cleansing of the skin and / or hair and serve as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

Corresponding their structure can Cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present invention, for example, as used Skin protection cream, Cleansing milk, day cream or night cream etc. It is optional possible and advantageously, the compositions of the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical To use formulations.

to The cosmetic and dermatological preparations are used in the for Cosmetics usual Applied to the skin and / or hair in sufficient quantity.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic excipients, such as those commonly used in such preparations be used, for. Preservatives, preservatives, Complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, preventing substances or increasing the foaming, Dyes, pigments that are a coloring Have effect, thickener, moisturizing and / or moisturizing Substances, fillers, the skin feeling improve, fats, oils, Waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, under the trade name Glydant ^™ from Lonza), iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those sold under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S. From the company. Lonza available and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-Hydroxybenzoesäurealkylester, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or Butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Usually, the preservation system according to the invention also advantageously also preservation aids, such as octoxyglycerol, glycine soy etc.

advantageous Complexing agents in the sense of the present invention are, for example EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is for example available under the trade name Octaquest from the company Octel, Pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate, which z. B. available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from the company Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. from Bayer AG under the trade name Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (about 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 available is.

Especially advantageous preparations are also obtained if, as additional or agents used antioxidants. Included in the invention the preparations advantageously one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but yet optional antioxidants can all be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or common Antioxidants are used.

Especially For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants may be advantageous be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and their derivatives.

preferred Antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives as well as vitamin A and its derivatives.

The Amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20 Wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.

Provided Vitamin E and / or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the field from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

Provided Vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives the one or more antioxidants are advantageous, their respective Concentrations from the range of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological agents, preferred agents are antioxidants that can protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Further advantageous active ingredients in the context of the present invention natural Active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. Alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or β-alanine, and 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid (Dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid).

Inventive formulations, which z. B. known anti-wrinkling agents such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosyl rutin), Coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for prophylaxis and treatment cosmetic or dermatological lesions, such as. B. at Skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and training of dryness wrinkles, Itching, reduced refatting (eg after washing), visible vascular dilations (telangiectasias, Cuperosis), slackness and development of wrinkles and wrinkles, local hyper-, hypo- and false pigmentations (eg age spots), increased susceptibility across from mechanical stress (eg cracking) and the like). Farther Advantageously, they are suitable against the appearance of tro ckenen or rough skin.

The Water phase of the preparations according to the present invention can be beneficial usual contain cosmetic excipients, such as alcohols, in particular such low C number, preferably ethanol and / or Isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, Ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can be chosen advantageously from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, eg. Hyaluronic acid, Xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the Group of so-called Carbopole [from the company. Bf. Goodrich], for example Carbopols Types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, either individually or in combination.

The Preparations according to the present invention Invention can furthermore advantageously also self-tanning substances such as dihydroxyactone and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1 wt .-% up to 8 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

Further advantageously, the compositions according to the present invention may also contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like. Advantageous z. B. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Metadelphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetyl-amino) -propionic acid ethyl ester (under the trade name insect repellent ^® 3535 available) at the company. Merck. the repellents can be used both individually and in combination.

When Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances, which cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property give, after application or distribution on the skin surface the Moisturizing the horny layer (also trans epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydration of the horny layer positively influence.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides. Hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, for example, which are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel ^® 1000 of the company SOLABIA SA is available. Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. occur during skin aging, can be used.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. the sensory and cosmetic properties properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feel on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenylsuccinate and the like), pigments which have neither chiefly UV filter nor coloring action (such as, for example, US Pat. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ^® (CAS no. 7631-86-9).

The oil phase of formulations according to the invention is chosen favorably from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, such as z. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like more.

According to the invention advantageous are also z. Natural Waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as Beeswax and other insect waxes as well as berry wax, shea butter and / or Lanolin (wool wax).

Further advantageous polar oil components can for the purposes of the present invention are further selected from the group of Esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then chosen advantageous are from the group octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, Octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, Isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, Stearylheptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, Tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, such as. B. jojoba oil.

Further can the oil phase chosen favorably are from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl, advantageous are z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example, under the trade name Cetiol CC at the Cognis available.

It is further preferred that the oil component or components from the group Isoeikosan, Neopentylglykoldiheptanoat, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglycerylsuccinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C _12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C _12-13 alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also z. B. Butyloctylsalicylate (for example, the under the trade name Hallbrite BHB available from the company CP Hall), Hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethylhexylnaphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H & R).

Also any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in the sense of the present Use invention.

Further can the oil phase also advantageously contain nonpolar oils, for example those who chose are from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

Advantageous can the oil phase also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or Completely from such oils although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils additional Content of other oil phase components to use.

werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten.Silicone oils are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or net shape via oxygen atoms and the remaining valencies of the silicon through Koh Hydrogen radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. Systematically, the silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are characterized by the following structural formula

are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Especially advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 bis 10,000 available from Th. Goldschmidt are. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, Phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI also called cyclomethicones amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes (stearoxy Dimethicones and behenoxy stearyl dimethicones) which are considered to be different Abil wax types are available from Th. Goldschmidt. But other silicone oils are advantageous to use in the context of the present invention, for example Cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, Poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

• (a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R₂SiO und RSiO_1,5 und/oder R₃SiO_0,5 und/oder SiO₂ enthalten, wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, CC_1–24-Alkyl (wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder Tolyl), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R₂SiO zu RSiO_1,5 aus dem Bereich von 1 : 1 bis 30 : 1 gewählt wird;
• (b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1), das siliciumbebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aliphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind, wobei die verwendeten Mengenateile so gewählt werden, daß die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2) • im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht cyclisch ist und • im Bereich von 1 bis 50 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan cyclisch ist.

The preparations according to the present invention may also advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:

• (A) siloxane elastomers containing the units R ₂ SiO and RSiO _1.5 and / or R ₃ SiO _0.5 and / or SiO ₂ , wherein the individual radicals R are each independently hydrogen, CC _1-24 alkyl (as for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO to RSiO _{1.5 is selected} from the range of 1: 1 to 30: 1 ;
• (b) Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil obtainable by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being such in that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or of the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) is in the range from 1 to 20 mol%, if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic, and in the range from 1 to 50 mol% % is when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

Advantageous For the purposes of the present invention, the siloxane elastomer (s) are present in the form of spherical Powder or in the form of gels.

According to the invention advantageous in the form of spherical Powder present siloxane elastomers are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that of DOW CORNING under the trade designations DOW CORNING 9506 Powder available.

Especially it is preferred if the siloxane elastomer in combination with oils Hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic Esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof is used.

All it is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer in combination with unbranched at room temperature liquid or pasty silicone oils or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof is used. Particularly advantageous Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11, especially those available from Grant Industries Inc. Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE gel, PM gel, LTX, ININ gel, AM-18 Gel and / or DMCM-5.

All exceptionally preferred it is when the siloxane elastomer is in the form of a gel of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, wherein the content of the siloxane elastomer in which gel is 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight, respectively based on the total weight of the gel.

It is advantageous in the context of the present invention, the total amount the siloxane elastomers (active content) from the range of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, advantageously from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or EC List of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the food-approved dyes. Examples of advantageous color pigments are titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to select the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971.

Provided the formulations according to the invention in the form of products applied on the face, is it cheap as dye, one or more substances from the following group to choose: 2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceresrot, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-fluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-fluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, Aluminum salt of quinophthalone-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo-disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), Iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Further advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as B. Paprika extracts, β-carotene or cochineal.

• 1. Natürliche Perlglanzpigmente, wie z. B. • „Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und • „Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen)
• 2. Monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCl)
• 3. Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer/Metalloxid

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are formulations with a content of pearlescent pigments. Particularly preferred are the types of pearlescent pigments listed below:

• 1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B. "fish-silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and "mother-of-pearl" (ground mussel shells)
• 2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such. B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)
• 3rd layer substrate pigments: z. Mica / metal oxide

Base for pearlescent pigments are for example powdered Pigments or castor oil dispersions of Bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or Titanium dioxide on mica. In particular vorteihaft z. B. the under the CIN 77163 listed luster pigment.

Also advantageous, for example, are the following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide:

Especially preferred are z. As the Merck under the trade name Pearlescent pigments available from Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.

Of course, the list of pearlescent pigments mentioned should not be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the context of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates except mica can be coated with other metal oxides such. As silica and the like. Advantageous z. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It can over it Be beneficial, entirely to dispense with a substrate like mica. Especially preferred are iron pearlescent pigments which, without the use of mica getting produced. Such pigments are z. B. under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 available from BASF.

Especially Also advantageous are also effect pigments which are sold under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in different colors (yello, red, green, blue) are available from Flora Tech. The glitter particles lie here in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the Color Index (CI) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The Dyes and pigments can both individually and in mixture and with each other be coated, with different coating thicknesses In general, different color effects are caused. The Total amount of the dyes and coloring pigments will be advantageous from the range of z. 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

It is also advantageous in the context of the present invention, cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the principal of which are Purpose is not the protection from sunlight, but still a Contain content of other UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually Incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. Also, UV protectors, as well like antioxidants and, if desired, Preservatives, effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Favorable are also cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which in in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly contain the preparations for the purposes of the present invention preferably at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The formulations can, although not necessary, optionally also one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

The Preparations according to the present invention Invention can furthermore advantageously also in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological There are emulsions which have a water phase and at least one liquid at room temperature UV filter substance contained as a further phase and which are particularly advantageous also free of other oil components could be.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature in the context of the present invention are homomenthylsalicylate (INCI: homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2 Ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI : isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is obtainable for example from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol ^® SLX.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other water-insoluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (for example Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides and also the barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ).

The Pigments can advantageous in the context of the present invention also in the form of a commercial available oily or aqueous predispersions come into use. These predispersions may advantageously dispersants and / or solubilization promoters may be added.

The Pigments can According to the invention advantageous superficial be treated ("coated"), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character formed should be or should be preserved. This surface treatment can consist of that the Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer be provided. The different surface coatings can be used in the According to the present invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: Alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

organic surface coatings For the purposes of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic Coating materials occur.

Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are obtainable from the following companies under the following commercial names:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:

Further advantageous pigments are latex particles. Latex particles which are advantageous according to the invention are those described in the following publications: US 5,663,213 respectively. EP 0 761 201 , Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which are formed from water and styrene / acrylate copolymers and z. B. under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere" at the company. Rohm & Haas are available.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex ^® 9020th

• • Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazol Tetrasulfonat (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• • Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• • 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexonl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• • Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the Trade name Neo Heliopan AP available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, from Trade name Eusolex 232 available from Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo) bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also known as benzene-1,4 benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher sulfonic acid (CAS.No. .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexonl SX from Chimex;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

worin R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten oder unverzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylreste mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen. Es ist erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft, die Reste R¹ und R² gleich zu wählen, insbesondere aus der Gruppe der verzweigten Alkylreste mit 3 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen. Es ist ferner besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, wenn R³ einen unverzweigten oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 8 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere den 2-Ethylhexylrest darstellt.Advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are furthermore benzoxazole derivatives which are distinguished by the following structural formula

wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to choose the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 the} same, in particular from the group of branched alkyl radicals having 3 to 5 carbon atoms. It is also particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, when R ^{3 is} an unbranched or branched alkyl radical having 8 carbon atoms, in particular the 2-ethylhexyl radical.

auszeichnet und bei 3V Sigma unter der Handelsbezeichnung Uvasorb^® K2A erhältlich ist.Benzoxazole derivative particularly preferred according to the invention is 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3, 5-triazine with CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is characterized by the structural formula

is available and distinguished from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb® ^® K2A.

The or the benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously in dissolved form in the cosmetic according to the invention Preparations before. It may also be an advantage if the benzoxazole derivative (s) in pigmentary, d. H. unsolved form - for example in particle sizes of 10 nm to 300 nm - present.

worin

• • R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl, C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkyl oder C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkenyl bedeuten, wobei die Substituenten R¹ und R² gemeinsam mit dem Stickstoffatom, an das sie gebunden sind, einen 5- oder 6-Ring bilden können und
• • R³ einen C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl Rest bedeutet.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are also so-called hydroxybenzophenones. Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by the following structural formula:

wherein

• • R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ -cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₁₀ -cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which she tied are, can form a 5- or 6-ring and
• • R ^{3 is} a C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkyl radical.

und unter dem Uvinul A Plus bei der Fa. BASF erhältlich ist.A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which has the following structure:

and Uvinul A Plus is available from BASF.

advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are further so-called broadband filters, i. Filter substances containing both UV-A as well as absorb UV-B radiation.

• • 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxylphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• • Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• • 4,4',4''-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoäsäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-(anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL^® T 150 vertrieben wird;
• • 2-[4,6-Bis(2,4-dimethylphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]-5-(octyloxy)phenol (CAS Nr.: 2725-22-6).

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.

• 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxy-phenol methoxyphenyl triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH;
• Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl butamido triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• • 4,4 ', 4''- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris ( anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL T 150 ^®;
• • 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6).

An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) ( INCI: Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol), which for example is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.

Favorable Broadband filter according to the present invention is also the 2- (2N-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

• • 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• • 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• • 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• • Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• • Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• • Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon sowie
• • an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are z. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and
• • polymer-bound UV filters.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are z. B .:
Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A weiterere according to the invention can be used advantageously light protection filter substance is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which T by BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 he is fair.

Especially advantageous preparations according to the present invention, which are characterized by a high or very high UV-A protection, contained in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention) further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular Dibenzoylmethanderivate [For example, the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt each individually or in any combination with each other.

The List of said UV filters, for the purposes of the present invention can be used Of course not limiting.

Advantageous contain the preparations according to the present Invention the substances that UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range absorb, in a total of z. From 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic Preparations available to put the hair or the skin in front of the entire area protect the ultraviolet radiation.

• A) PEG-45 Dodecylglykolcopolymer (INCI: PEG-45 Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer [y=z=11 und x=45]) und PEG-22 Dodecylglykolcopolymer (INCI: PEG-22 Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer [y=z=4,5 und x=22]) und Methoxy PEG-22 Dodecylglykolcopolymer (INCI: Methoxy PEG-22 Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer [y=7 und x=22 und R = CH₃]) zu verwenden, welche von der Firma AKZO Nobel erhältlich sind.
• B) wasserlösliche oder in Wasser dispergierbare Polyoxyethylen-Polyoxypropylen-Blockpolymere (CTFA-Bezeichnung: Polaxamere, CAS-Nr. 9003-11-6) mit folgender Struktur:
  
  wobei x, y und z ganze Zahlen aus dem Bereich von 2 bis 130, insbesondere von 15 bis 100 darstellen und x und z gleich sind, aber unabhängig von y gewählt werden. Unter diesen sind insbesondere Polaxamer 188 [mit x = 75, y = 30 und z = 75], welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Lutrol F 68 (alt: Pluronic F 68) von der Firma BASF zu beziehen ist, das Polyxamer 185 [mit x = 19, y = 30 und z = 19] (Lubrajel WA von ISP), das Polyxamer 235 [mit x = 27, y = 39 und z = 27] (Pluronic F 85 von BASF) und/oder das Polyxamer 238 [mit x = 97, y = 39 und z = 97] (Pluronic F 88 von BASF) vorteilhaft zu verwenden.
• C) acetylierte Stearinsäureester, wie z. B. acetyliertes Glykolstearat. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft kann auch die Kombination von acetyliertem Glykolstearat mit Tristearin (INCI: Acetylated Glycol Stearat and Tristearin) verwendet werden, welche beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Unitwix von der Fa. ISP erhältlich ist. Solche Produkte sind unter den Chemical-Abstracts-Registraturnummern 91052-08-3 und 94944-95-3 registriert.
• D) Weitere vorteilhafte Substanzen, welche zur Steigerung der Wasserfestigkeit beitragen können, aber in die Ölphase der Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung eingearbeitet werden, sind bestimmte Wachskomponenten, wie C_18–36 Fettsäuretriglycerid (z. B: Syncrowax HGLC von der Fa. Crode GmbH mit der INCI: C18–36 Acid Triglyceride) sowie die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen „Performa V 1608" (INCI: C30–38 Olefin/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolymer) und „Perfroma V 825" (synethisches Wachs) von New Phase Technologies erhältlichen Substanzen.

The preparations according to the present invention may also advantageously contain substances which increase the water resistance of the products. Particularly advantageous are the water-resistance-increasing substances mentioned below:

• A) PEG-45 Dodecylglycol Copolymer (INCI: PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = z = 11 and x = 45]) and PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCI: PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = z = 4.5 and x = 22]) and methoxy PEG-22 dodecylglycol copolymer (INCI: methoxy PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = 7 and x = 22 and R = CH ₃ ]) available from AKZO Nobel.
• B) water-soluble or water-dispersible polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene block polymers (CTFA name: Polaxamere, CAS No. 9003-11-6) having the structure:
  
  where x, y and z represent integers in the range of 2 to 130, especially 15 to 100, and x and z are equal but are selected independently of y. Among these are in particular Polaxamer 188 [with x = 75, y = 30 and z = 75], which is available under the trade name Lutrol F 68 (old: Pluronic F 68) from BASF, the polyxamer 185 [with x = 19, y = 30 and z = 19] (Lubrajel WA from ISP), the polyxamer 235 [with x = 27, y = 39 and z = 27] (Pluronic F 85 from BASF) and / or the polyxamer 238 [with x = 97, y = 39 and z = 97] (Pluronic F 88 from BASF).
• C) acetylated stearic acid esters, such as. B. acetylated glycol stearate. According to the invention, the combination of acetylated glycol stearate with tristearin (INCI: Acetylated Glycol Stearate and Tristearin), which is available, for example, from the company ISP under the trade name Unitwix, can also be used. Such products are registered under Chemical Abstracts Registry Nos. 91052-08-3 and 94944-95-3.
• D) Further advantageous substances which can contribute to increasing the water resistance but are incorporated into the oil phase of the preparations according to the present invention are certain wax components such as C _18-36 fatty acid triglyceride (for example: Syncrowax HGLC from Crode GmbH INCI: C18-36 Acid Triglycerides) and the substances available under the trade names "Performa V 1608" (INCI: C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer) and "Perfroma V 825" (Synethetic Wax) from New Phase Technologies ,

It is particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention a or combine several of these substances to increase the water resistance to improve the preparations.

The The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention, without restricting it. The Numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight on the total weight of the respective preparations.

• • UVASorb^® K2A = 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazin [CAS Nr. 288254-16-0]
• • Uvinul^® A Plus = 2-(4'-Diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl)-benzoesäurehexylester (auch: Aminobenzophenon)
• • Tinopal CBS-X = 4,4'bis(2-sulfostyryl)-biphenyl Dinatrium-Salz
• • Uvitex NFW Liquid enthält als aktiven Bestandtteil 4,4'bis(2-sulfostyryl)-biphenyl Dinatrium-Salz

In the following examples,

• • Uvasorb K2A ^® = 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine [CAS No. 288254-16-0]
• • Uvinul ^® A Plus = 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate (also: aminobenzophenone)
• • Tinopal CBS-X = 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) -biphenyl disodium salt
• • Uvitex NFW Liquid contains 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) biphenyl disodium salt as active ingredient

1. O / W emulsions

O / W emulsions

O / W emulsions

2. Foamed O / W emulsions:

further foamy O / W emulsions:

further foamy O / W emulsions:

4. W/O Emulsionen (Cremes & Lotions)

5. Hydrodispersionen (zur Verwendung als Lotion oder Spray)

6. Gelcremes

7. Ölgele

8. Feststoffstablisierte Emulsionen

9. Gele: Beispiel 1 (Eve Shadow Gel): Gew.-% PEG-8 (Polyethylenglycol 400) 2,00 Ethanol 5,00 Aristoflex AVC 1,50 Glycerin 2,00 Panthenol 0,50 Tocopherolacetat 0,50 Timiron Splendid blue^® (Merck KgaA) 4,50 Chromoxid grün 1,00 UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0,70 Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel, NaOH, Komplexbildner, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien etc. q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 2 (Highlighter Gel): Gew. % Carbomer 1,50 Glycerin 2,50 1,3 Butylenglycol 2,50 Glitzerpigmente (z.B. Helicone HC Scarabeus, Wacker) 1,00 EDTA 0,20 Dimethicone 1,50 Tinopal CBS-X 0,67 Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel, NaOH, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, etc. q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 3 (Eye Liner Gel): Gew. % Perlglanzpigmente 10,00 Eisenoxid 3,00 Silica 2,00 Aristoflex AVC 1,00 Hyroxyproylethyl Cellulose 0,35 Citric Acid q.s. Glycerin 5,00 PVP/VA Copolymer 2,00 Tinopal CBS-X 0,20 Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, NaOH, Komplexbildner, Antioxidantien, etc. q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 10. Make-up Beispiel 1 (Emulsions-Make-up): Gew. % PEG-30 Stearat 2,00 Glycerinmonostearat 1,00 Stearinsäure 1,00 Cyclomethicon 7,00 Octyldodecanol 7,00 Isopropyl Lanolat 4,00 Squalan 2,00 Octyl Methoxycinnamat 2,00 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethan 1,00 Xanthan Gum 0,20 Glycerin 5,00 Butylenglkcol 2,00 Vitamin E Acetat 1,00 Magnesiumsilikat 1,00 UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0,24 Glimmer 1,00 Eisenoxid 1,00 Titandioxid 2,50 Talkum 5,00 EDTA 0,50 Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel, NaOH, Antioxidantien etc. q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 2 (Emulsions-Make-up): Gew. % Cyclomethicon and PEG/PPG -18/18 Dimethicon (z.B. Dow Corning 3225 Formulation Aid) 10,00 Cyclomethicon 10,00 Bienenwachs 3,00 Polyglyceryl-4 Oleat 2,00 Eisenoxid 1,00 Titandioxid 2,50 Tinopal CBS-X 0,32 Talkum 12,00 Natrium Chlorid 2,00 Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel, NaOH, Antioxidantien etc. q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 3 (Cover Cream): Gew. % Cyclomethicon 43,50 Bienenwachs 3,00 Carnaubawachs 10,00 Lanolinöl 5,00 Paraffinöl 8,40 Cetyl Alkohol 2,60 Eisenoxid 3,00 Titandioxid 7,50 UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0,50 Nylon 6,00 Talkum 10,50 Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel, Antioxidantien etc. q.s. Beispiel 4 (Emulsions-Make-up): Gew. % Cyclomethicon 18,00 Phenyltrimethicon 3,00 Cetyl PEG/PPG – 10/1 Dimethicon (z.B. Abil EM 90) 4,00 Paraffinöl 3,00 Eisenoxid 2,30 Titandioxid 4,50 UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0,30 Talkum 2,00 Natrium Chlorid 2,00 Quaternium-18 Hectorit 0,30 Propylen Carbonat 0,08 Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel, NaOH, Antioxidantien etc. q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 To produce the foam, 80-97% by volume of emulsion I is foamed with 3-20% by volume of a suitable gas (for example propane / butane, compressed air, nitrogen). 3. Thin-liquid to sprayable W / O emulsions

4. W / O emulsions (creams & lotions)

5. Hydrodispersions (for use as a lotion or spray)

6. Gel creams

7. Oil gels

8. Solid-State Emulsions

9. Gels: Example 1 (Eve Shadow Gel): Wt .-% PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol 400) 2.00 ethanol 5.00 Aristoflex AVC 1.50 glycerin 2.00 panthenol 0.50 tocopherol 0.50 Timiron Splendid Blue ^® (Merck KgaA) 4.50 Chrome oxide green 1.00 UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0.70 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, complexing agents, dyes, antioxidants etc. qs water ad 100.00 Example 2 (Highlighter Gel): % By weight Carbomer 1.50 glycerin 2.50 1.3 butylene glycol 2.50 Glitter pigments (eg Helicone HC Scarabeus, Wacker) 1.00 EDTA 0.20 Dimethicone 1.50 Tinopal CBS-X 0.67 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, dyes, antioxidants, etc. qs water ad 100.00 Example 3 (Eye Liner Gel): % By weight pearlescent 10.00 iron oxide 3.00 silica 2.00 Aristoflex AVC 1.00 Hyroxyproylethyl cellulose 0.35 Citric Acid qs glycerin 5.00 PVP / VA copolymer 2.00 Tinopal CBS-X 0.20 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, NaOH, complexing agents, antioxidants, etc. qs water ad 100.00 10. Make-up Example 1 (emulsion make-up): % By weight PEG-30 stearate 2.00 glycerol 1.00 stearic acid 1.00 cyclomethicone 7.00 octyldodecanol 7.00 Isopropyl lanolate 4.00 squalane 2.00 Octyl methoxycinnamate 2.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 Xanthan gum 0.20 glycerin 5.00 Butylenglkcol 2.00 Vitamin E acetate 1.00 magnesium silicate 1.00 UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0.24 mica 1.00 iron oxide 1.00 Titanium dioxide 2.50 talc 5.00 EDTA 0.50 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, antioxidants etc. qs water ad 100.00 Example 2 (emulsion make-up): % By weight Cyclomethicone and PEG / PPG -18 / 18 dimethicone (eg Dow Corning 3225 Formulation Aid) 10.00 cyclomethicone 10.00 beeswax 3.00 Polyglyceryl-4-oleate 2.00 iron oxide 1.00 Titanium dioxide 2.50 Tinopal CBS-X 0.32 talc 12,00 Sodium chloride 2.00 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, antioxidants etc. qs water ad 100.00 Example 3 (Cover Cream): % By weight cyclomethicone 43,50 beeswax 3.00 carnauba 10.00 lanolin 5.00 paraffin oil 8.40 Cetyl alcohol 2.60 iron oxide 3.00 Titanium dioxide 7.50 UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0.50 nylon 6.00 talc 10.50 Perfume, preservatives, antioxidants etc. qs Example 4 (emulsion make-up): % By weight cyclomethicone 18,00 Phenyl 3.00 Cetyl PEG / PPG - 10/1 Dimethicone (eg Abil EM 90) 4.00 paraffin oil 3.00 iron oxide 2.30 Titanium dioxide 4.50 UVITEX NFW LIQUID 0.30 talc 2.00 Sodium chloride 2.00 Quaternium-18 hectorite 0.30 Propylene carbonate 0.08 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, antioxidants etc. qs water ad 100.00

Claims (12)

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing stilbene and / or its derivatives. Preparations according to Claim 1, characterized that the total amount of stilbene and / or its derivatives from the Range of 0.001 wt .-% to 20 wt .-% is selected, based on the total weight the preparations. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more stilbene derivatives are chosen from the group: 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) biphenyl Disodium salt, 4,4'bis (2-sulfostyryl) biphenyl Disodium salt. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that it comprises at least one self-tanning substance contains. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one substance which Absorbed UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that it contains inorganic pigments which serve as UV filter substances. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that it is waterproof. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that stilbene and / or its derivatives (one or more compounds) are present individually or in an encapsulated form. A preparation according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein stilbene derivatives from a group of photolabile stilbene derivatives selected become. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that it contains one or more substances which for one Light path extension and / or with the additional scattering and / or reflection centers included in the wording introduced the effects of stilbene and / or his Derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological Support sunscreen formulations on the skin. Procedure for assessing the order quantity of cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations the skin, characterized in that stilbene and / or his Derivatives incorporated in a cosmetic preparation, applies to the skin and based on the visible effect - if necessary with the help of einse Contrast amplifier - estimates, on Which skin has already been awarded an order and / or if enough Preparation has been applied and / or when re-applying has become necessary. Use of stilbene and / or its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations on the skin.