CN104203350A

CN104203350A - Colour changing composition with alcohol

Info

Publication number: CN104203350A
Application number: CN201380014893.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: C·莱莫恩; 楚娟
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2012-01-17
Filing date: 2013-01-16
Publication date: 2014-12-10
Anticipated expiration: 2033-01-16
Also published as: CN104203350B

Abstract

The instant invention relates to a changing colour composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s), said microcapsules comprising: - a core comprising one organic material, - at least one layered coating surrounding said core, the layered coating comprising at least one polymer, at least one colorant, and advantageously at least one lipid-based material, b) at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, c) and optionally 0.1 to 70% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, of additional cosmetic ingredient(s) selected from volatile and non-volatile silicon or hydrocarbon oils, surfactants, fillers, gelifying agents, thickening agents, film forming agents, polymers, preservatives, silicone elastomer, self-tanning agents, additional non-entrapped colorants, cosmetic actives, pH regulators, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.

Description

There is the color-changing composition of alcohol

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of color-changing composition that comprises at least one alcohol of the nursing, health care and/or the cosmetic that are particularly useful for keratin material.

Particularly, color-changing composition according to the present invention can be the make-up composition of any type, and for example foundation cream, face powder, eye shadow, concealer product, rouge, lip pomade, lip gloss, lip gloss, liner, eyeliner, eyeliner, mascara, body cosmetic, dye product, skin care item are as protective skin cream, ' BB ' product the concealer product of subterranean weakness (can), coloured facial cream or sunscreen product, preferably foundation cream or ' BB ' product.Color-changing composition according to the present invention can be liquid, solid or powder.

Compositions of the present invention is especially intended to be applied to keratin material, especially skin, the compositions of skin of face more specifically, for example, and for facial skin care item or cosmetics.

According to another embodiment, compositions of the present invention is mascara.

According to another embodiment, compositions of the present invention is the product for lip, especially lip gloss, lip gloss or lip pomade.

Background technology

Make-up composition, especially foundation cream, be generally used for giving the color of skin aesthetic feeling, and cover the skin defect such as rubescent and/or cicatrix.In this respect, many formulas have been developed so far.

In this respect, for the cosmetics that change color is provided in response to outside stimulus (such as shearing force), more and more pay close attention to.

Conventionally, realize this object by comprise the coloring agent of microencapsulation in make-up composition, wherein, in the time being applied on skin, said composition provides expection change color.More particularly, provide the variation of color by the microcapsule that comprises coloring agent, when when applying mechanical force and break, microcapsule is discharged into the coloring agent of containing in compositions, changes thus its color.Mechanism, such as friction, makes topical composition drawout, and promotes it to penetrate in skin.The variation immediately of the color of compositions provides visual aesthetic effect.

The coloring agent of dissimilar containing, more particularly comprise pigment microcapsule be obtainable.They are the difference by containing the type of material and/or the type of encapsulation mainly.

Therefore, the pigment encapsulating as the microcapsule of the polymer by acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid or copolymer, the microcapsule of the copolymer that comprises ethyl acrylate/methacrylic acid ammonium salt of being sold by Tagra company that for example, can propose to describe in WO-A-01/35933.Also can mention by TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES with title with the encapsulated pigments of selling.

As the pigment of the microsphere encapsulation by cellulose derivative, for example, can mention by Induchem company with title the spheroid that comprises cellulose, hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose of selling.

As the pigment of the microcapsule encapsulation of the polymer with polyester type, poly-aminomethyl acrylate type, polyvinylpyrrolidone type, hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose type, Lac type and composition thereof, can especially mention in the application US 2011/0165208 of Biogenics, describe and by Biogenics with title those pigment of selling.

As other the pigment being encapsulated by microcapsule, also can mention DAITO those disclosed pigment in JP2011-79804, also can mention the double-layer microcapsule of encapsulated pigment, this double-layer microcapsule comprises in following material three kinds or more than three kinds: (a) mannitol, (b) hydrolecithin, (c) polymethyl methacrylate, (d) cellulose and (e) Lac.

These double-layer microcapsules and not as one of microcapsule preferably used according to the invention like that, comprise uncoloured core, but comprise the coloured internal layer that comprises said components, this said components all mixes, granulation then.

But the microcapsule that comprises coloring agent for some, is difficult to, during long-time section and in the time experiencing different environment and condition, permanently keep coloring agent.Like this pigment, oil-soluble dyes and water-soluble dye be exactly.Therefore, some microcapsules of describing in patent with in announcing are found: in the time of the long-time section of continuance test at high temperature, microcapsule is along with the time little by little discharges coloring agent or " oozing out ".In the time that dyestuff or pigment move through or leave microsphere/microcapsule by for example, contacting with moisture in preparation and/or other components (alcohol or glycol, surfactant, silicone, oil, antiseptic, salt and other compositions that conventionally exist), there is bleeding in make-up preparation.In make-up composition, the absorption of coloring agent or ooze out can damage in container and the long-term visual effect of suprabasil cosmetics.

In addition, some microcapsules that comprise pigment can give the coverage effect less than expection.

In addition, some microcapsules that comprise pigment break immediately in the time of application, therefore, although unexpected change color is interesting, can not realizes the interstage of this change color or regulate color range.

In addition, according to make-up composition and about relevant solvent/component, some microcapsules that comprise pigment can have some stability problems.

In addition, some microcapsules that comprise pigment can have gray appearance, and its main body for make-up composition is given unengaging color.

In the time of application topical composition, consumer is liked conventionally by different sensory signals, vision/the visual signal for example being provided by the color of compositions in when application and such as the dermal sensation being provided by the application of freshener or warm dose, feels the difference before and after application.

In addition, the skin of around eyes is very fragile region, and this region is because skin is thinner than other places, therefore be not always easy to nursing.This region also comprises less body of gland, and this makes, and it is more dry, more responsive and be more vulnerable to infringement for environmental injury.Due to more fragile and seek, the skin of around eyes started to become thinner and occurs wrinkle in the time of 25 years old, especially for pale skin.

In addition, the eye pouch being caused by fluid retention, allergy, tear, damage and UV often appears at eyes below.

Therefore, consumer should be used the compositions for this specific thin region especially, to nurse this thin region.

Finally, in the time comprising that the make-up preparation of microcapsule is used on keratin material, some microcapsules can provide uncomfortable and/or unfavorable sensation.

Microcapsules more of the prior art are fast decoupled in water alcohol medium, therefore needs to have the arbitrarily used compositions that is included in variable color microcapsule stable in water alcohol medium.

Finally, single methanol is especially as extender or softening agent, as below disclosed.

In one embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises and comprises water, at least one C2-C8 alcohol and optionally at least one is selected from the water of the compound of polyhydric alcohol, glycol and composition thereof.

Advantageously, this water is as the extender for microcapsule or softening agent and act on, and do not make microcapsule break.Microcapsule is not inert in the time being placed in this water, and they expand: its diameter significantly increases, and with there being the optional softening of microcapsule; Or microcapsule is significantly softening and diameter does not increase, they become more to have ductility and be easier in the time being applied on skin breaks.

For can work to the softening kinetics of microcapsule according to the water of compositions of the present invention, more specifically, it allows to obtain well balanced between softening kinetics and hardness.

Above-claimed cpd in water, the alcohol of for example C2-C8 and optional polyhydric alcohol and/or glycol play an important role in microcapsule softening.Especially, can advantageously control softening kinetics by the amount that regulates above-claimed cpd.Therefore, can obtain compositions, wherein, microcapsule (immediately after preparation) is still hard and stable, be enough to be used in the industrial treatment of freshly prepd compositions, and the lasting time (for example 3 hours to 4 hours) is enough to realize the conventional industrialization process such as encapsulation, and microcapsule can not break too early.More advantageously, once compositions preparation and encapsulation complete, for example, after about 24 hours, microcapsule will soften, and make in the time being applied on keratin material, and described compositions does not present the granule sensation causing due to hard capsule.

Suitable in the situation that, described water also comprises water-soluble solvent.

In the present invention, term " water-soluble solvent " represents it is at room temperature compound liquid and miscible with water (being greater than 50% with the compatibility of water at atmospheric pressure and at 25 DEG C).

Can be used on water-soluble solvent in compositions of the present invention also volatile.

As said, compositions of the present invention comprises water, and water comprises water, at least one C ₂-C ₈alcohol and optional at least one be selected from polyhydric alcohol, glycol, and composition thereof compound.It also can comprise C ₄ketone and C ₂-C ₄aldehyde.

With respect to the weight of compositions, water is preferably with by weight at least 3%, preferably by weight at least 5%, more preferably by weight at least 8%, advantageously at least 10% amount exists by weight.

Advantageously, with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, described water by weight can be with 30% to 99%, preferably 40% to 95%, more preferably 50% to 90% content exists.

Advantageously, with respect to the weight of described compositions, water exists with at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, more preferably at least 50% amount by weight.With respect to the weight of described compositions, water is conventionally with by weight 30% to 90%, preferably 40% to 85%, more preferably 50% to 80% amount exists.

Advantageously, this water, as extender or the softening agent of microcapsule, does not preferably make microcapsule break or does not cause coloring agent leakage.

With respect to the gross weight of compositions, at least one that generally includes by weight 3% to 50%, preferably 5% to 45%, more preferably 10% to 45% amount is selected from C by compositions of the present invention ₂-C ₈single methanol, optional polyhydric alcohol and/or glycol, and composition thereof compound.

In a preferred embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises at least one polyhydric alcohol or glycol.

For purposes of the present invention, term " polyol " should be understood to refer to any organic molecule that comprises at least two free hydroxyl.Do not contain above-disclosed monosaccharide-ol according to term " polyol " of the present invention.

Preferably, polyhydric alcohol according to the present invention at room temperature exists with liquid form.

Polyhydric alcohol/glycol is wetting agent or wetting agent.

They can have effect to the stability of the microcapsule of other components, the especially prior art of compositions.

Therefore, need to have arbitrarily used stable composition, it is included in the variable color microcapsule in the Physiological Medium that comprises polyhydric alcohol and/or glycol, and reason is that these compositionss present significant moistening effect or wettability effect.

The compositions that comprises at least one polyhydric alcohol or glycol according to the present invention has solved this specific technical barrier.

Be suitable for polyhydric alcohol used in this invention can be straight chain, side chain or ring-type, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, on each alkyl chain, carry the compound of at least two-OH functional group, especially at least three-OH functional group and more specifically at least four-OH functional group.

Advantageously being suitable for preparation is especially to comprise 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 16 carbon atoms, advantageously 2 to 10 carbon atoms, the polyhydric alcohol of 2 to 6 carbon atoms more advantageously according to the polyhydric alcohol of compositions of the present invention.

According to another embodiment, be suitable for polyhydric alcohol used in this invention and can be advantageously selected from Polyethylene Glycol.

According to an embodiment, compositions of the present invention can comprise the mixture of polyhydric alcohol.

Advantageously, polyhydric alcohol can be selected from polyhydric alcohol, preferably C ₂-C ₈polyhydric alcohol, C more preferably ₃-C ₆polyhydric alcohol.Polyhydric alcohol can be selected from: glycerol, tetramethylolmethane, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,3-PD, pentanediol, hexanediol, isoamyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and diglycerol, Sensiva SC50, Flos Magnoliae glycol and composition thereof; Glycerol and derivant thereof; Polyglycereol, as glycerin oligomer, as diglycerol and Polyethylene Glycol; Glycol ethers (especially comprising 3 to 16 carbon atoms), as MPG (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, dipropylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether or tripropylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, monoethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, diethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether or triethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether; And composition thereof.

Especially, polyhydric alcohol is selected from: glycerol; Glycol, preferably propylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, Sensiva SC50, Flos Magnoliae glycol; Glycol ethers, preferably MPG (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, dipropylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether or tripropylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether or monoethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, diethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether or triethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether; And composition thereof.

According to of the present invention one preferred embodiment, described polyhydric alcohol be selected from ethylene glycol, tetramethylolmethane, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, butanediol, glycerol, polyglycereol and Polyethylene Glycol, and composition thereof.

In specific embodiment, polyhydric alcohol is selected from: glycerol; Be selected from the glycol of propylene glycol, butanediol, Sensiva SC50, Flos Magnoliae glycol; And composition thereof.

According to a specific embodiment, compositions of the present invention at least comprises butanediol, glycerol or its mixture.

In a preferred embodiment, compositions at least comprises glycerol.

According to a specific embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises the glycerol as unique polyhydric alcohol.

Advantageously, based on the gross weight of compositions, compositions can comprise that weight ratio is 1% to 10%, preferred 2% to 8% glycerol.

Advantageously, based on the gross weight of compositions, compositions can comprise that weight ratio is 1% to 10%, preferred 2% to 8% butanediol.

Advantageously, based on the gross weight of compositions, compositions can comprise that weight ratio is 1% to 10%, preferred 2% to 8% propylene glycol.

In the time that compositions comprises glycerol and at least one glycol, the weight ratio of glycerol/glycol is advantageously 1/2 to 3/2, preferably 2/3 to 1/1, more preferably about 1.

In a preferred embodiment, compositions comprises glycerol and is selected from least one glycol of propylene glycol, butanediol, Sensiva SC50, Flos Magnoliae glycol, and the weight ratio of glycerol/glycol is advantageously 1/2 to 3/2, preferably 2/3 to 1/1, more preferably about 1.

Based on according to the weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions can advantageously comprise by weight at least 10%, preferably by weight between 10% and 45%, the polyhydric alcohol between 10% and 40% and/or glycol especially by weight, preferred a kind of C ₂-C ₃₂polyhydric alcohol and/or glycol.

Based on according to the weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions can advantageously comprise by weight at least 10%, preferably by weight 12% to 50%, especially by weight 13% to 40%, more preferably by weight 14% to 35%, 15% to 30% polyhydric alcohol and/or glycol by weight better.

Based on the weight of water, according to compositions of the present invention can advantageously comprise by weight at least 10%, preferably by weight 12% to 50%, especially by weight 13% to 40%, more preferably by weight 14% to 35%, 15% to 30% polyhydric alcohol and/or glycol by weight better.

Preferably, polyhydric alcohol is C ₂-C ₃₂polyhydric alcohol and/or glycol.

Advantageously, the weight ratio of polyhydric alcohol and glycol/compositions is 1/10 to 1/2, preferably 1/8 to 1/3, more preferably 1/6 to 1/4.More specifically, the weight ratio of polyhydric alcohol and glycol/water phase is 1/10 to 1/2, preferably 1/8 to 1/3, more preferably 1/6 to 1/4.

More specifically, the weight ratio of polyhydric alcohol and glycol/water phase is 1/10 to 1/2, preferably 1/8 to 1/3, more preferably 1/6 to 1/4.

cosmetic medium and other component

Compositions according to the present invention is to make up upper acceptablely, that is, it comprises physiologically acceptable atoxic and be suitable for being applied in the medium on the mankind's keratin material.

In the sense of the present invention, " acceptable in cosmetic " refers to have the compositions of outward appearance, abnormal smells from the patient or the sensation of pleasant.

" physiologically acceptable medium " is generally suitable for such form: compositions is intended to be tied under this form.

Especially, the property quality and quantity of component is for example formulated into solid, fluid or powder according to compositions and adjusts.

According to the form of skin protection or make-up preparation and object, except the microcapsule that comprises coloring agent, compositions of the present invention also will comprise one or more other cosmetic components, as is selected from the cosmetic components of volatile and nonvolatile silicone oil or hydrocarbon ils, surfactant, filler, gelating agent, thickening agent, film former, polymer, antiseptic, silicone elastomer, imitative suntan, other non-inclusive coloring agent, activating agent, UV filtering agent, spice, pH adjusting agent and composition thereof.

Be preferably 6.5 to 7.5 according to the pH of make-up composition of the present invention.Be triethanolamine for the preferred alkali that changes pH.

To those skilled in the art, being adjusted in the property quality and quantity according to the additive occurring in compositions of the present invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties of compositions is unaffected, is routine operation problem.

Some components in these conventional components are described in more detail below.

liquid aliphatic phase

Therefore, can comprise at least one at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure, be the fatty phase of liquid according to compositions of the present invention, especially as at least one oil of below mentioning.

Particularly, the existence of at least one oil is up to now favourable, and reason is that it is conducive to using of compositions and emollescence is provided.

According to the present invention, term " oil " refer at room temperature under (25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (760mmHg) be liquid with the immiscible nonaqueous compound of water.

Be suitable for preparation and can comprise oil, silicone oil, fluorocarbon oil or non-fluorocarbon oil or its mixture based on hydrocarbon according to the oil phase of anhydrous cosmetic compositions of the present invention.

Oil is volatile or nonvolatile.

They are the oil in animal origin, plant origin, mineral source or synthetic source.According to an embodiment modification, the oil of plant origin is preferred.

Term " volatile oil " refers under room temperature and atmospheric pressure, can contact skin or lip less than 1 hour any non-aqueous media with regard to evaporation.Volatile oil is cosmetic volatile oil, and it is at room temperature liquid.More specifically, volatile oil has at 0.01mg/cm ²/ minute and 200mg/cm ²/ minute between evaporation rate, comprise limit value.

Term " fixed oil " refers to the oil keeping on skin or keratin fiber under room temperature and atmospheric pressure.More specifically, fixed oil has and is strictly less than 0.01mg/cm ²/ minute evaporation rate.

In order to measure this evaporation rate, treat tested oil or the oil mixture of 15g are placed in the crystallizing dish of diameter 7cm, it is about 0.3m of relative humidity 50% that evaporating dish is placed on temperature and the humidity regulation that temperature is adjusted in 25 DEG C ³large-scale indoor balance on.Allow this liquid freely to evaporate, and do not stir this liquid, simultaneously by the fan (Papst-Motoren arranging on the vertical position above the crystallizing dish comprising described oil or described mixture, numbering 8550N, with 2700rpm rotation) ventilation is provided, blade points to crystallizing dish, and apart from the bottom 20cm of crystallizing dish.Be retained in the oily quality in crystallizing dish with the interval measurement of rule.Evaporation rate is with per unit area (cm ²) and time per unit (minute) evaporation oily mg number represent.

For purposes of the present invention, term " silicone oil " refers to comprise at least one silicon atom, the oil of at least one Si-O base especially.

Term " fluorocarbon oil " refers to the oil that comprises at least one fluorine atom.

Term " based on the oil of hydrocarbon " refers to mainly comprise the oil of hydrogen atom and carbon atom.

Oil can comprise oxygen atom, nitrogen-atoms, sulphur atom and/or phosphorus atoms alternatively, for example, with the form of hydroxyl or acidic group.

Advantageously, with respect to the gross weight of anhydrous composition of the present invention, described compositions can comprise by weight 10% to 50%, one or more oil of 20% to 40% by weight preferably.

a) volatile oil

The oil based on hydrocarbon of optional self-contained 8 to 16 carbon atoms of volatile oil, especially C ₈-C ₁₆branched paraffin (also referred to as isoparaffin), for example Fancol ID (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-five methylheptane), isodecane and 2-Methylpentadecane, for example, with trade name or the oil of selling, or the C of straight chain especially ₈-C ₁₄alkane.

Also spendable volatile oil comprises volatile silicone, silicone oil for example volatile straight chain or ring-type, especially those viscosity≤8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 ^-6m ²/ silicone oil s), and especially comprise 2 to 10 silicon atoms, especially comprise 2 to 7 silicon atoms silicone oil, these silicone comprise the alkyl or the alkoxyl that comprise 1 to 10 carbon atom alternatively.As available volatile silicone oils in the present invention, can especially mention polydimethylsiloxane, octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, ten diformazan basic ring six siloxanes, seven methyl hexyl trisiloxanes, seven Methyl Octyl trisiloxanes, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane and ten dimethyl five siloxanes that viscosity is 5cSt and 6cSt, and composition thereof.

Also can use volatility fluorocarbon oil, for example Nonafluoromethoxybutcompositions or FLUTEC PC 1 trifluoromethyl-cyclopentane., and composition thereof.

Advantageously, with respect to the gross weight meter of liquid aliphatic phase of the present invention, described liquid aliphatic can comprise by weight 1% to 50% mutually, preferably by weight 2% to 40%, 5% to 30% volatile oil by weight better.

b) fixed oil

Fixed oil can especially be selected from non-volatile oil, fluorocarbon oil and/or silicone oil based on hydrocarbon.

The non-volatile oil based on hydrocarbon that can especially mention comprises:

The oil based on hydrocarbon of-animal origin,

The oil based on hydrocarbon of-plant origin, for example vegetable stearin base ester (phytostearyl easters), as vegetable stearin base oil acid esters, vegetable stearin base isostearate and lauroyl/octyl group dodecyl/vegetable stearin base glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), the triglyceride that formed by the fatty acid ester of glycerol, especially wherein fatty acid can have C ₄to C ₃₆chain length, C especially ₁₈to C ₃₆chain length, these oil are straight chain or side chain, saturated or unsaturated, these oil are D3-C7 or Trivent OCG especially, shea butter, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, millet oil, large wheat oil, rye-seed oil, bankoul nut oil (candlenut oil), passionflower oil, Adeps Bovis seu Bubali resin, aloe, Semen pruni armeniacae oil, Fructus Persicae oil (peach stone oil), Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, Argan oil, American Avocado Tree oil, kopok oil, borage oil, broccoli seeds oil, marigold oil, Camellia oil, canola oil (canola oil), carrot oil, safflower oil, oleum lini, Oleum Brassicae campestris, Oleum Gossypii semen, Oleum Cocois, pepo oil, Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil, Jojoba oil, Bulbus Lilii oil, macadamia oil, Semen Maydis oil, Bai Manghua seed oil, Herba Hyperici perforati oil, Tahiti's extraction oil (monoi oil), hazelnut oil, almond oil, walnut oil, olive oil, Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae oil, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, blackcurrant seed oil, Chinese gooseberry seed oil, Oleum Vitis viniferae, pistachio oil, Cucurbita maxima oil, squash oil, Quinoa oil, musk rose oil, Oleum sesami, soybean oil, Oleum helianthi, Oleum Ricini and watermelon oil, and composition thereof, or Trivent OCG/tricaprin alternatively, as the product of being sold by Stearineries Dubois company or by Dynamit Nobel company with title Miglyol miglyol and Miglyol the product of selling,

Hydrocarbon straight chain or side chain-mineral sources or synthetic source, for example the polybutene of liquid paraffin and its derivant, vaseline, poly decene, polybutene, hydrogenation is as Parleam and squalane,

-synthetic the ether that comprises 10 to 40 carbon atoms, as two caprylyl ethers;

-synthetic ester, if molecular formula is R ₁cOOR ₂oil, wherein, R ₁represent the fatty acid residue that comprises 1 to 40 carbon atom straight chain or side chain, R ₂the chain based on hydrocarbon of the especially side chain that representative comprises 1 to 40 carbon atom, condition is R ₁+ R ₂>=10.This ester can especially be selected from: the ester of alcohol and fatty acid, as 16 octadecyl caprylates; The ester of isopropyl alcohol, as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl cetylate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate; Hydroxylating ester, as the ricinoleate of isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, lauric acid hexyl ester; Pivalate, as Dermol 105, neopentanoic acid isotridecyl ester; With different pelargonate, as isononyl isononanoate and different n-nonanoic acid isotridecyl ester.

-polyol ester and pentaerythritol ester, for example dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxy-stearic acid ester/tetraoctyl stearate,

The ester of-glycol dimer and diacid dimer, for example, by the Lusplan that describes in patent application US 2004-175338 and sold by Nippon Fine Chemical company and Lusplan

The copolymer of-glycol dimer and diacid dimer and ester thereof, for example copolymer and the ester thereof of two sub-oily glycol dimer/dilinoleic acid dimers, as Plandool-G,

The copolymer of-polyhydric alcohol and diacid dimer and ester thereof, for example copolymer of Hailuscent ISDA or dilinoleic acid/butanediol,

-be at room temperature the fatty alcohol of liquid, it has the chain based on carbon side chain and/or undersaturated, should comprise 12 to 26 carbon atoms by the chain based on carbon, for example, 2-octyldodecanol, isooctadecanol and oleyl alcohol,

-C ₁₂-C ₂₂higher fatty acids, for example oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and composition thereof,

-dialkyl carbonate, two alkyl chains can be identical or different, as by Cognis with title Cetiol the dicaprylyl carbonate of selling,

The oil of-high molecular weight, especially molal weight is the oil of about 400g/mol to about 2000g/mol, especially about 650g/mol to about 1600g/mol.As the oil of available high molecular weight in the present invention, can especially mention: total carbon number is 35 to 70 straight-chain fatty acid ester, for example tetramethylolmethane four pelargonates; Hydroxylating ester, as polyglyceryl-2 three isostearate; Aromatic ester, as tridecyl trimellitate; The C of side chain ₂₄-C ₂₈the ester of fatty alcohol or fatty acid, as the ester of describing at patent US 6491927, and pentaerythritol ester, especially three Isoeicosane alcohol citrates, three glyceryl isostearates, three (2-decyl), four caprins, polyglyceryl-2 tetraoctyl stearate or tetramethylolmethane four (2-decyl) four decanoins; Phenyl polysiloxane, as the Belsil PDM 1000 (MM=9000g/mol) from the Wacker of company; Non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), PDMS comprise dangle and/or at alkyl or the alkoxyl of the end of silicone chains, these alkyl or alkoxyl comprise respectively 2 to 24 carbon atoms; Phenyl polysiloxane, trimethicone as poly-in phenyl, phenyl polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethylsiloxy group diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes and the poly-trimethicone (wherein, viscosity is less than or equal to 100cSt) of 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy group silicate, polydimethylsiloxane or phenyl and composition thereof; And the mixture of these different oil, and

-its mixture.

According to an embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises that at least one is selected from the non-volatile oily fixed oil based on hydrocarbon, such as:

The oil based on hydrocarbon of-animal origin;

The oil based on hydrocarbon of-plant origin;

-synthetic the ether that comprises 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

-synthetic ester, for example molecular formula R ₁cOOR ₂oil, wherein, R ₁represent the fatty acid residue that comprises 1 to 40 carbon atom straight chain or side chain, R ₂the chain based on hydrocarbon of the especially side chain that representative comprises 1 to 40 carbon atom, condition is R ₁+ R ₂>=10;

-polyol ester and pentaerythritol ester;

-be at room temperature the fatty alcohol of liquid, it has the chain based on carbon that comprises 12 to 26 carbon atoms side chain and/or undersaturated;

-dialkyl carbonate, two alkyl chains identical or different;

The oil of-high molecular weight; With

-its mixture.

Advantageously, with respect to the gross weight of liquid aliphatic phase of the present invention, described liquid aliphatic can comprise by weight at least 40% mutually, preferred at least 60% or even by weight 100% fixed oil by weight.

Can be anhydrous or non-anhydrous according to compositions of the present invention.

In anhydrous composition according to the present invention, with respect to the weight of compositions, at least one C ₂-C ₈single methanol and be selected from optional compound of polyhydric alcohol and/or glycol and composition thereof with by weight at least 3%, preferably by weight at least 5%, more preferably by weight at least 8%, advantageously at least 10% amount exists by weight, and described compositions lacks water.

" shortage water " refers to that compositions comprises and is less than 3%, is preferably less than 1%, is more preferably less than 0.5% water, especially not moisture.

In appropriate circumstances, this small amount of water can be especially the component of water of comprised residual by compositions introduce.

In non-anhydrous composition according to the present invention, with respect to the weight of compositions, at least one C ₂-C ₈single methanol and be selected from polyhydric alcohol and/or the optional compound of glycol, and composition thereof, with by weight at least 10%, preferably by weight at least 12%, more preferably at least 15% amount exists by weight.

suntan

For purposes of the present invention, statement " skin imitate suntan " refers to the compound that can for example, carry out coloring reaction with the functional group of ammonia freely (aminoacid, peptide or protein) that exists in skin contacting when skin.

By reading detailed description below, other features of the present invention, aspect and advantage will present.

Imitative suntan is selected from some single carbonyl or many carbonyl compounds conventionally, for example isatin, alloxan, 1,2,3-indantrione monohydrate, glyceraldehyde, meso winestone aldehyde (mesotartaric aldehyde), glutaraldehyde, red algae ketose, as pyrazoline-4 of describing in patent application FR 2466492 and WO 97/35842,5-derovatives, dihydroxy acetone (DHA) and in patent application EP 903342, describe 4,4-dihydroxy pyrazolin-5-one.To preferably use DHA.

DHA is free to form and/or entrapped form is used, for example, in lipid vesicle, as liposome, especially as in patent application WO 97/25970 describe.

With respect to the gross weight of compositions, imitative suntan is conventionally with by weight 0.1% to 15%, preferably by weight 0.2% to 10%, more preferably 1% to 8% ratio exists by weight.

silicone elastomer

According to the present invention, compositions can comprise at least one silicone elastomer.According to the present invention, can use any suitable silicone elastomer.Suitable silicone elastomer for example comprises: emulsifying silicone elastomer, as emulsifying silicone elastomer bound to polyglycerol and/or hydrophilic, as oxyalkylated silicone elastomer; With non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.This silicone elastomer spherical or aspheric.

The silicone elastomer of bound to polyglycerol

The silicone elastomer of suitable bound to polyglycerol comprises for example crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane, this crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane can by comprise the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of at least one hydrogen atom that connects silicon and the compound of the bound to polyglycerol that comprises olefinic unsaturated group especially the crosslinked additive reaction under platinum catalyst exists obtain.

The silicone elastomer of spendable bound to polyglycerol includes but not limited to the silicone elastomer of the bound to polyglycerol of being sold with title " KSG-710 ", " KSG-810 ", " KSG-820 ", " KSG-830 " and " KSG-840 " by Shin-Etsu company.The United States serial of submitting on March 22nd, 2005 is 11/085,509 (open with U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0220728) also disclose suitable bound to polyglycerol silicone elastomer, and whole disclosures of this patent application are incorporated in literary composition by reference at this.

Hydrophilic emulsifying silicone elastomer

Term " hydrophilic emulsifying silicone elastomer " refers to comprise the silicone elastomer of at least one the hydrophilic chain different from bound to polyglycerol chain as above.

Especially, the optional silicone elastomer from polyoxyalkylene of hydrophilic emulsifying silicone elastomer.

The elastomer of suitable polyoxygenated alkylene is at U.S. Patent number 5,236, and 986, be described in U.S. Patent number 5,412,004, U.S. Patent number 5,837,793 and U.S. Patent number 5,811,487.

The silicone elastomer of spendable suitable polyoxygenated alkylene comprises: the product of being sold with title " KSG-21 ", " KSG-20 ", " KSG-30 ", " KSG-31 ", " KSG-32 ", " KSG-33 ", " KSG-210 ", " KSG-310 ", " KSG-320 ", " KSG-330 ", " KSG-340 " and " X-226146 " by Shin-Etsu company; Or the product of being sold with title " DC9010 " and " DC9011 " by Dow Corning company.

The United States serial 11/085,509 (being published as U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0220728) of submitting on March 22nd, 2005 also discloses suitable hydrophilic emulsifying silicone elastomer.

Non-emulsifying silicone elastomer

Term " non-emulsifying " defines the elastomer that does not comprise hydrophilic chain (for example polyoxyalkylene unit or bound to polyglycerol unit).

Non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is preferably can be by the following elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtaining: the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions that comprises at least one hydrogen atom being connected with silicon and the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions that comprises the ethylenically unsaturated group being connected with the silicon especially crosslinked additive reaction under the existence of platinum catalyst; Or the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions that comprises hydroxyl end groups and comprise at least one and the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions of the hydrogen that silicon is connected between especially organo-tin compound exist under dehydrogenation crosslinking coupling reaction; Or the crosslinked coupling reaction of the diorganopolysiloxanecompositions that comprises hydroxyl end groups and hydrolyzable organopolysilane; Or organopolysiloxane is the heat cross-linking under organic peroxide catalyst exists especially; Or crosslinked by the organopolysiloxane of energy-rich radiation (such as gamma ray, ultraviolet or electron beam).

Suitable non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is described in patent application JP61-194009A, EP0242219A, EP0295886A and EP0765656A.

Spendable suitable non-emulsifying silicone elastomer includes but not limited to the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer of being sold with title " DC 9040 ", " DC 9041 ", " DC 9509 ", " DC 9505 " and " DC 9506 " by Dow Corning company.

In the United States serial 11/085,509 (being published as U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0220728) of submitting on March 22nd, 2005, suitable non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is also disclosed.

Non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is also coated with the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder of silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resins, for example, as at U.S. Patent number 5, in 538,793, describe, the full content of this patent is incorporated in literary composition by reference at this.This elastomer is sold with title " KSP-100 ", " KSP-101 ", " KSP-102 ", " KSP-103 ", " KSP-104 " and " KSP-105 " by Shin-Etsu company.

The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane of other powder type comprises: the functionalized hybrid organic silicon powder by fluoroalkyl, the product of especially being sold with title " KSP-200 " by Shin-Etsu company; The functionalized hybrid organic silicon powder by phenyl, the product of for example being sold with title " KSP-300 " by Shin-Etsu company.

Based on the weight of compositions of the present invention, silicone elastomer can with by weight 0.1% to 95%, preferably by weight 0.1% to 75%, more preferably by weight 0.1 to 50%, more preferably by weight 0.1% to 40%, more preferably by weight 0.5% to 30%, more preferably by weight 0.5% to 25%, more preferably by weight 1% to 20%, more preferably by weight 1% to 15%, 3% to 10% measure in present described compositions by weight even more preferably.

film former

silicone polyamide

Compositions according to the present invention comprises at least one silicone polyamide.

The silicone polyamide of described compositions preferably at room temperature under (25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (760mmHg) lower be solid.

But the polymer of the silicone polyamide poly organo siloxane type of compositions of the present invention, those polymer of for example describing in document US-A-5874069, US-A-5919441, US-A-6051216 and US-A-5981680.According to the present invention, silicone polymer can belong to two series below:

(1) comprise the polysiloxane of at least two amide groups, these two amide groups are arranged in polymer chain, and/or

(2) comprise the polysiloxane of at least two amide groups, these two amide groups are positioned on grafting or side chain.

A), according to the first modification, silicone polymer is the polysiloxane that wherein amide units as above is arranged in polymer chain.

Silicone polyamide can especially comprise at least one polymer corresponding to the unit of general formula I:

1) wherein, in the time of G representative-C (O)-NH-Y-NH-, G ' represents C (O); And as G representative-NH-C (O)-Y-C (O)-time G ' representative-NH-,

2) R ⁴, R ⁵, R ⁶and R ⁷, identical or different, representative is selected from following group:

C-straight chain, side chain or ring-type, saturated or unsaturated ₁to C ₄₀the group based on hydrocarbon, in their chain, can comprise one or more oxygen atoms, sulphur atom and/or nitrogen-atoms and can be partially or completely replace with fluorine atom,

-C ₆-C ₁₀aryl, this C ₆-C ₁₀aryl alternatively by one or more C ₁-C ₄alkyl replace,

-can comprise the polysiloxane chain of one or more oxygen atoms, sulphur atom and/or nitrogen-atoms,

3) radicals X, identical or different, represent C straight chain or side chain ₁to C ₃₀alkylidene two bases (alkylenediyl), in its chain, can comprise one or more oxygen atoms and/or nitrogen-atoms;

4) Y is saturated or unsaturated C ₁to C ₅₀the divalent group of alkylidene straight chain or side chain, arlydene, ring alkylidene, alkyl arylene or aryl alkylene, it can comprise one or more oxygen atoms, sulphur atom and/or nitrogen-atoms, and/or one of the following atom of portability or atomic radical are as substituent group: fluorine, hydroxyl, C ₃to C ₈cycloalkyl, C ₁to C ₄₀alkyl, C ₅to C ₁₀aryl, use 1 to 3 C alternatively ₁to C ₃phenyl, C that alkyl replaces ₁to C ₃hydroxyalkyl and C ₁to C ₆aminoalkyl, or

5) Y represents the group corresponding to following formula:

Wherein:

-T represents straight chain or side chain, saturated or unsaturated C ₃to C ₂₄the group based on hydrocarbon trivalent or tetravalence, group that should be based on hydrocarbon replaces and can comprise the one or more atoms that are selected from O, N and S with polysiloxane chain alternatively, or T represents the triad that is selected from N, P and Al, and

-R ⁸represent C straight chain or side chain ₁-C ₅₀alkyl or polysiloxane chain, can comprise one or more ester groups, amide group, urethane group, thiocarbamate group, urea groups, thiourea group and/or sulfuryl amine group, it can be connected with another chain of polymer;

6) n is 2 to 500, preferably 2 to 200 integer, and m is 1 to 1000, preferably 1 to 700,6 to 200 integer better.

According to the present invention, the radicals R of polymer ⁴, R ⁵, R ⁶and R ⁷in 80% be preferably selected from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoro propyl.According to another embodiment, the radicals R of polymer ⁴, R ⁵, R ⁶and R ⁷in 80% be methyl.

According to the present invention, Y can represent various divalent groups, comprises alternatively in addition one or two free valency being connected with other parts of foundation and polymer or copolymer.Preferably, Y representative is selected from following group:

A) C of straight chain ₁to C ₂₀, C preferably ₁to C ₁₀alkylidene,

B) C of side chain ₃₀to C ₅₆comprised ring and non-conjugated undersaturated alkylidene,

C) C ₅-C ₆ring alkylidene,

D) alternatively by one or more C ₁to C ₄₀alkyl replace phenylene,

E) C that comprises 1 to 5 amide groups ₁to C ₂₀alkylidene,

F) comprise one or more hydroxyl, C of being selected from ₃to C ₈cycloalkane, C ₁to C ₃hydroxyalkyl and C ₁to C ₆the substituent C of alkyl amine group ₁to C ₂₀alkylidene,

G) the polysiloxane chain of following formula:

Or

Wherein, R ⁴, R ⁵, R ⁶, R ⁷, T and m be defined as above.

B), according to the second modification, silicone polyamide can be the polymer comprising corresponding at least one unit of formula (II):

Wherein:

-R ⁴and R ⁶, identical or different, as for being defined as above in formula (I),

-R ¹⁰representative be defined as above for R ⁴and R ⁶group, or represent Shi-X-G "-R ¹²group, wherein, X is for for being defined as above in formula (I), R ¹²represent C hydrogen atom or straight chain, side chain or ring-type, saturated or unsaturated ₁-C ₅₀(this C of the group based on hydrocarbon ₁-C ₅₀the atom that comprises one or more O of being selected from, S and N alternatively in its chain of the group based on hydrocarbon, replace and/or one or more hydroxyl with one or more fluorine atoms alternatively), or use alternatively one or more C ₁-C ₄the phenyl that alkyl replaces,

And G " representative-C (O) NH-and-HN-C (O)-,

-R ¹¹represent Shi-X-G "-R ¹²group, wherein X, G " and R ¹²be defined as above,

-m ₁be 1 to 998 integer, and

-m ₂it is 2 to 500 integer.

According to the present invention, silicone polymer can be homopolymer, comprises the polymer of the unit of multiple identical unit, especially formula (I) or formula (II).

According to the present invention, also can use the silicone polymer being formed by the copolymer of the multiple different unit of contained (I), that is, wherein radicals R ⁴, R ⁵, R ⁶, R ⁷, at least one polymer different in one of unit in X, G, Y, m and n.Copolymer also can be formed by multiple unit of formula (II), wherein radicals R ⁴, R ⁶, R ¹⁰, R ¹¹, m ₁and m ₂in at least one is different at least one unit.

Also can use the polymer of at least one unit of contained (I) and at least one unit of formula (II), can be mutually the same or differ from one another in the unit of the unit of described formula (I) and described formula (II).

But these copolymer block polymer or graft polymers.

In this first embodiment of the present invention, silicone polymer also can be made up of graft copolymer.Therefore, but the polyamide grafting that comprises silicone unit and crosslinked with the silicone chains that comprises amide groups alternatively.This polymer can utilize the amine of trifunctional synthetic.

According to a favourable embodiment of the present invention, can set up the interactional group of hydrogen and be formula-C (O) NH-and-HN-C (O)-amide groups.In this case, structural agent can be the polymer of at least one unit of contained (III) or formula (IV):

Or

Wherein, R ⁴, R ⁵, R ⁶, R ⁷, X, Y, m and n as above limit.

In the polyamide of these formulas (III) or formula (IV), m, in 1 to 700 scope, is especially 15 to 500, especially 50 to 200, and n is especially in 1 to 500 scope, is preferably 1 to 100, better 4 to 25.

-X is preferably and comprises 1 to 30 carbon atom, especially 1 to 20 carbon atom, especially 5 to 15 carbon atoms, alkylidene chain straight chain or side chain of 10 carbon atoms more specifically, and

-Y is preferably straight chain or side chain or can comprises ring and/or the alkylidene chain of unsaturation, comprises 1 to 40 carbon atom, especially 1 to 20 carbon atom, 2 to 6 carbon atoms, 6 carbon atoms especially better.

In formula (III) and formula (IV), at least one in can lising under its alkylene moiety comprises alternatively of the alkylidene that represents X or Y:

1) 1 to 5 amide group, urea groups, urethane group or carbamate groups,

2) C ₅or C ₆cycloalkyl, and

3) alternatively by 1 to 3 identical or different C ₁to C ₃the phenylene that alkyl replaces.

In formula (III) and formula (IV), alkylidene also can be selected from least one following member and be replaced:

-hydroxyl,

-C ₃to C ₈cycloalkyl,

-1 to 3 C ₁to C ₄₀alkyl,

-alternatively by 1 to 3 C ₁to C ₃the phenyl that alkyl replaces,

-C ₁to C ₃hydroxyalkyl, and

-C ₁to C ₆aminoalkyl.

In these formulas (III) and formula (IV), Y also can represent:

Wherein, R ⁸represent polysiloxane chain, and T represents the group of following formula:

Wherein, a, b and c are 1 to 10 integer independently, R ¹³for hydrogen atom or such as for R ⁴, R ⁵, R ⁶and R ⁷the group limiting.

In formula (III) and formula (IV), R ⁴, R ⁵, R ⁶and R ⁷preferably represent independently C straight chain or side chain ₁to C ₄₀alkyl, preferably CH ₃, C ₂h ₅, n-C ₃h ₇or isopropyl, polysiloxane chain or the phenyl that replaced by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl alternatively.

See as previous, polymer can contained (III) or the identical or different unit of formula (IV).

Therefore, polymer can be the polyamide of multiple unit of the formula (III) that comprises different length or formula (IV), corresponding to the polyamide of formula (V):

Wherein, X, Y, n and R ⁴to R ⁷there is the implication as above providing, m ₁and m ₂different and be selected from 1 to 1000 scope, and p is 2 to 300 integer.

In the formula, unit can be structured to form block copolymer or random copolymer or alternate copolymer.In this copolymer, unit can not only have different length, but also has different chemical constitutions, for example, comprise different group Y.In this case, polymer can be corresponding to formula VI:

Wherein, R ⁴to R ⁷, X, Y, m ₁, m ₂, n and p have implication given above, Y ¹different from Y but be selected from for Y limit group.As previously mentioned, unit can be structured to form block copolymer or random copolymer or alternate copolymer.

In this first embodiment of the present invention, structural agent also can be made up of graft copolymer.Therefore, but the polyamide grafting that comprises silicone unit and crosslinked with the silicone chains that comprises amide groups alternatively.This polymer can utilize the amine of trifunctional to synthesize.

In this case, polymer can comprise the unit of at least one formula (VII):

Wherein, identical or different X ¹and X ²have the implication of the X for formula (I) providing, n is suc as formula defined in (I), and Y and T be as defined in formula (I), R ¹⁴to R ²¹for being selected from and R ⁴to R ⁷the group of identical group, m ₁and m ₂for the number in 1 to 1000 scope, p is the integer in 2 to 500 scopes.

In formula (VII), preferably:

-p in 1 to 25, better 1 to 7 scope,

-R ¹⁴to R ²¹for methyl,

-T is corresponding to one in following formula:

Wherein, R ²²for hydrogen atom or be selected from for R ⁴to R ⁷the group of the group limiting, R ²³, R ²⁴and R ²⁵be alkylidene straight chain or side chain independently, more preferably corresponding to following formula:

Especially, R ²³, R ²⁴and R ²⁵representative-CH ₂-CH ₂-,

-m ₁and m ₂in 15 to 500 scope, be 15 to 45 better,

-X ¹and X ²representative-(CH ₂) ₁₀-, and

-Y representative-CH ₂-.

These polyamide of the silicone unit of the grafting of contained (VII) can be with polyamide-silicone copolymerization of formula (II) to form block copolymer, alternate copolymer or random copolymer.The percentage by weight of the silicone unit (VII) of grafting in copolymer can be 0.5% to 30% by weight.

According to the present invention, as discussed previously, siloxane unit can be in the main chain of polymer or in skeleton, but they also can appear at grafted chain or dangle in chain.In main chain, siloxane unit can be with the form of fragment as above.Dangling in chain or grafted chain, siloxane unit can occur or occur with fragment individually.

According to an embodiment of the invention modification, can use the copolymer of silicone polyamide and the polyamide based on hydrocarbon or the copolymer of contained (III) or unit (IV) and the polyamide units based on hydrocarbon.In this case, polyamide-silicone unit can be positioned at the end of the polyamide based on hydrocarbon.

Preferred embodiment silicone polyamide comprises the unit of formula III according to one, preferably, and wherein radicals R ⁴, R ⁵, R ⁶and R ⁷represent methylidene, in X and Y one represents alkylidene, another alkylidene that represents 11 carbon atoms of 6 carbon atoms, the degree of polymerization DP of n representation polymer.

The example of this silicone polyamide that can mention comprises the compound that is called nylon-6 11/ polydimethylsiloxanecopolymer copolymer sale by Dow Corning company with title DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15), its INCI name.

Advantageously, silicone polyamide is the compound that INCI name is called nylon-6 11/ polydimethylsiloxanecopolymer copolymer.

Advantageously, compositions according to the present invention comprises at least one polydimethylsiloxaneblock block polymer of general formula (I), wherein Coefficient m approximately 100.Coefficient " m " is corresponding to the degree of polymerization of the silicone part of polymer.

More preferably, compositions according to the present invention comprises the polymer that at least one comprises at least one unit of formula (III), and wherein, m, in 50 to 200 scope, is especially 75 to 150, more particularly approximately 100.

Also preferably, in formula (III), R ⁴, R ⁵, R ⁶and R ⁷represent independently C straight chain or side chain ₁-C ₄₀alkyl, preferably CH ₃, C ₂h ₅, n-C ₃h ₇or isopropyl.

As the example of spendable polymer, can mention one of silicone polyamide obtaining according to the embodiment 1 to 3 of document US-A-5981680.

Nylon-6 11/ polydimethylsiloxanecopolymer copolymer of preferably, being sold with numbering DC 2-8179 by Dow Corning is used as silicone polyamide.

With respect to the gross weight of described compositions, silicone polyamide can be with by weight 0.5% to 45%, preferably by weight 1% to 30%, the total content in 2% to 20% scope be present in compositions by weight better.

silicone resin

The example of these silicone silicones that can mention comprises:

-siloxy group esters of silicon acis, it has formula [(CH ₃) ₃siO] _x(SiO _4/2) _ythe trimethylsiloxane group esters of silicon acis of (unit MQ), wherein x and y are the integers in 50 to 80 scopes,

-Shi (CH ₃siO _3/2) _xthe polysilsesquioxane of (unit T), wherein, x be greater than 100 and its methyl at least one radicals R that can be defined as above replace,

-poly methyl silsesquioxane, it is such polysilsesquioxane: wherein do not have methyl to be replaced by another group.This poly methyl silsesquioxane is described in document US 5,246 694.

As the example of the poly methyl silsesquioxane resin that can buy on market, can mention the product of following sale:

-the product sold with numbering Resin MK by Wacker company, for example Belsil PMS MK: comprise CH ₃siO _3/2the polymer of repetitive (unit T), this polymer also can comprise (the CH up to 1% by weight ₃) ₂siO _2/2unit (cells D) and there is the mean molecule quantity of about 10000g/mol, or

-by Shin-Etsu company with numbering KR-220L sell product, it is by formula CH ₃siO _3/2unit T form and comprise Si-OH (silanol) end group; The product of selling with numbering KR-242A, the dimethyl cells D that it comprises 98% unit T and 2% and comprise Si-OH end group; Or, the product of selling to number KR-251, the dimethyl cells D that it comprises 88% unit T and 12% and comprise Si-OH end group.

The siloxy group silicon ester resin that can mention comprises the trimethylsiloxane group silicon ester resin (TMS) with powder type alternatively.These resins are sold or are sold with code T MS 803 by Wacker company with numbering SR1000 by Momentive Performance Materials company.Also can mention the trimethylsiloxane group silicon ester resin of selling of being sold with title KF-7312J by Shin-Etsu company or sold with title DC 749 and DC 593 by Dow Corning company in solvent (such as, Cyclomethicone).

Advantageously, silicone resin, for example trimethylsiloxane group silicon ester resin, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, exists with the content in 0.5% to 30%, better 1% to 25% or even better 5% to 25% scope.

Preferably, nylon-6 11/ polydimethylsiloxane is used as silicone polyamide and trimethylsiloxane group silicon ester resin is used as silicone resin.

According to another embodiment, silicone resin is propyl group phenyl silsesquioxane resins.

Silsesquioxane resins is the particular form of film forming silicone resin.Silicone resin is crosslinked organopolysiloxane, and it is at room temperature solid and is conventionally dissolved in organic solvent.In the time that they are dissolved in volatile solvent, once solvent evaporates, silicone resin can form film.In addition, if the solvent of dissolves silicon ketone resin is attracted on the coated substrate of silicone resin, the silicone resin remaining on substrate also can form film.

Compositions of the present invention can comprise propyl group phenyl silsesquioxane resins, the US20040180011 that its patent of having announced for 29th JIUYUE in 2005 announces WO2005/090444, announce JIUYUE in 2004 on the 16th and open in the US20040156806 announcing on August 12nd, 2004.

Total molar percentage of the siloxy group unit based on resin, propyl group phenyl silsesquioxane resins comprises the propyl-siloxane base unit (C at least about 70 % by mole ₃h ₇siO _3/2), and total molar percentage of siloxy group unit based on resin, the phenyl siloxane base unit (C of approximately 30 % by mole at the most ₆h ₅siO _3/2).

Propyl-siloxane base unit can regulate according to object application the molar percentage of phenyl siloxane base unit.Therefore, can there is propyl group phenyl silsesquioxane resins, it has propyl-siloxane base unit: the molar percentage of phenyl siloxane base unit is that about 70:30 for example, to about 100:0, the subrange of 70:30,80:20,90:10 and 100:0 and between.In the time that the molar percentage of propyl-siloxane base unit is approximately 100 % by mole, propyl group phenyl silsesquioxane resins is known as propyl group silsesquioxane resins.

The suitable example that is used for the propyl group phenyl silsesquioxane resins of make-up composition of the present invention, includes but not limited to the propyl group silsesquioxane resins of buying with trade name DC 670 Fluid from Dow-Corning.

Propyl group phenyl silsesquioxane film-forming resin can be with by weight approximately 0.5% to approximately 50%, as by weight approximately 1% to approximately 40%, as by weight approximately 2% to approximately 30%, as by weight approximately 3% to approximately 20%, as the existence of the amount in approximately 4% to approximately 10% scope by weight, the weight of all wt based on whole compositions.

silicone acrylate copolymer

Compositions of the present invention can comprise silicone acrylate copolymer.

Silicone acrylate copolymer is another particular form of film forming silicone resin.They can be used as has (methyl) acrylate skeleton of the silicone chains of being grafted with or has the silicone acrylate copolymer that is grafted with the silicone skeleton of (methyl) acrylate or has silicone acrylate dendrimer.

Silicone acrylate dendrimer, such as at U.S. Patent number 6,280, describes and claimed silicone acrylate dendrimer in 748, is preferably used for compositions of the present invention, and this United States Patent (USP) full content is incorporated in literary composition by reference.Silicone acrylate dendrimer is made up of the polyvinyl in its side strand with carbon siloxanes dendrimer structure.It is characterised in that in its side strand, to have the polymer of the vinyl type of carbon siloxanes dendrimer structure.Term " carbon siloxanes dendrimer structure " is for having from single center radially the structure with the high molecular group of high regularity branch.

Polyvinyl skeleton is made up of the monomer of the vinyl type that comprises basic polymerizable vinyl.The most extensively defining, for the type of this monomer, there is no special restriction.Particularly preferred polyvinyl is (methyl) acrylate.

Number-average molecular weight for the silicone acrylate dendrimer of compositions of the present invention is approximately 3,000 to approximately 2,000,000, as from approximately 5,000 to approximately 800,000.

The especially preferred silicone acrylate dendrimer for compositions of the present invention, can be purchased from the FA-4001 CM silicone acrylate of the INCI title acrylate of Dow Corning/poly-trimethylsiloxane group methacrylate copolymer (in Cyclomethicone 30% solution) and FA-4002 ID silicone acrylate (in Fancol ID 40% solution).

Silicone acrylate copolymer can be with by weight approximately 0.5% to approximately 20% (as by weight approximately 0.7% to approximately 15%, as by weight approximately 1% to approximately 10%) amount in scope is present in compositions of the present invention, the weight of all wt based on whole compositions.

powdery phase

Compositions of the present invention, except microcapsule defined above, also can comprise powdery phase material.

With respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions can be wrapped at least 1%, especially by weight at least 5% powdery phase by weight.

More particularly, with respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions can comprise at least 15%, especially by weight at least 20% powdery phase by weight.

For purposes of the present invention, except required microcapsule according to the present invention, this powdery can comprise the granular materials that at least one is non-inclusive mutually, this non-inclusive granular materials is selected from filler, pigment, Concha Margaritifera, has the granule of metal tone, and composition thereof.

Therefore, with respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions advantageously can comprise by weight 1% to 70%, preferably by weight 5% to 60%, 10% to 50% powdery phase by weight better.

Therefore, with respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions advantageously can comprise by weight 15% to 70%, preferably by weight 20% to 60%, 25% to 50% powdery phase by weight better.

a) non-inclusive filler

For purposes of the present invention, term " filler " should be understood to the solid particle of arbitrary form colourless or white, its in the medium of compositions in form undissolved and that disperse.

The filler mineral of these natural character or synthesising property or organic, provides pliability and provides dumb light effect and uniformity to cosmetic results to the compositions that comprises described filler.

With respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions can comprise by weight 0.5% to 50%, 1% to 30% filler by weight preferably.

The amount of this filler does not comprise the amount of the hollow particle of parallel needs according to the present invention.

Can be used on according in the mineral filler in compositions of the present invention, can mention complex (as the TSG series of being sold by Nippon Sheet Glass) of natural or synthetic Muscovitum, Pulvis Talci, Kaolin, natural or synthetic sericite, silicon dioxide, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, hollow silica microsphere body (from the silica bead of Maprecos), microcapsule, silicon dioxide and titanium dioxide glass or pottery and composition thereof.

According in the organic filler of compositions of the present invention, can mention: polyamide powder is (from Atochem's can be used for orgasol); Poly--Beta-alanine powder and polyethylene powders; Politef ( ) powder; Lauroyl lysine; Tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder; The spherical powder of the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane of especially describing at document JP-A-02-243612, as the product with title Trefil Powder E 2-506C or DC9506 or DC9701 sale by Dow Corning company; Silicone resin, it is the hydrolysis of mixture of siloxanes and the product of polycondensation of formula (R) 3SiOHCH3 and Si (OCH3) 4, R represents the alkyl that comprises 1 to 6 carbon atom (for example from Shin-Etsu KSP100); Silicone resin microballon is (for example, from Toshiba's ), l200 (Chemdal company); Polyurethane powder, especially comprises the crosslinked polyurethane powder of copolymer, and described copolymer comprises trihydroxy methyl caprolactone, as by Toshiki company with title Plastic powder or Plastic Powder the polymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate/trihydroxy methyl caprolactone of selling; And composition thereof.

Can be used for according in other organic fillers of compositions of the present invention, can mention based on starch or based on cellulosic powder.The example of this filler that can mention comprises the Dry Flo product of being sold by Akzo Nobel and the Cellubeads product of being sold by Daito Kasei company.

Advantageously, be mineral filler according to filler of the present invention, be preferably selected from Muscovitum, sericite, Kaolin, Pulvis Talci and silicon dioxide, and composition thereof mineral filler.

c) for the non-inclusive granular materials of painted object

With respect to the gross weight meter of the compositions that comprises other colored particles material, these other colored particles materials can with by weight 0 to 40%, preferably by weight 1% to 30% or even by weight 5% to 30% ratio exist.

They are pigment, Concha Margaritifera and/or have the granule of metal tone product especially, and these materials can be surface treated.

That term " pigment " should be understood to refer to is white or coloured, in aqueous solution insoluble mineral grain or organic granular, pigment is painted and/or opaque for the compositions that makes to comprise this pigment.

With respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions can comprise by weight 0.01% to 40%, preferably by weight 0.1% to 20%, 1% to 15% pigment by weight better.

Pigment is white or coloured, mineral and/or organic.

As can be used for coloring earth of the present invention, can mention titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, Zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or ceria and zinc oxide, iron oxides or chromated oxide, barba hispanica, manganese violet, ultramarine and chromic oxide gel, and composition thereof.

According to specific embodiment, compositions of the present invention at least comprises and is selected from the non-inclusive inorganic pigment of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and/or is selected from bismuth oxychloride or the filler of boron nitride, to improve the white of compositions.

According to specific embodiment, compositions of the present invention at least comprises non-inclusive TiO ₂.

Pigment also can be the pigment of the structure with for example sericite/iron oxide brown/titania/silica type.For example, this pigment is sold with numbering Coverleaf NS or Coverleaf JS by Chemicals and Catalysts company, and has about 30 contrast.

Pigment also can be the pigment of the structure with the silicon dioxide microsphere body type that for example comprises iron oxides.The example with the pigment of this structure is the product of being sold with numbering PC Ball PC-LL-100P by Miyoshi company, and this pigment is made up of the silicon dioxide microsphere body that comprises iron oxide yellow.

Advantageously, be iron oxides and/or titanium dioxide according to pigment of the present invention.

Term " Concha Margaritifera " is construed as colored particles flash of light or that do not glisten that means any shape, that especially produce in its shell by certain Mollusca or synthetic, and it has color effect by optical interference.

With respect to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions can comprise by weight 1% to 80%, preferably by weight 5% to 60%, 10% to 40% Concha Margaritifera by weight better.

Concha Margaritifera can be selected from: pearlescent pigment, as be coated with iron oxides odenite, be coated with bismuth oxychloride Muscovitum, be coated with chromated oxide odenite, be coated with the odenite of organic dyestuff and the pearlescent pigment based on bismuth oxychloride.They can also be mica particles, stacked metal-oxide and/or the toner of at least two pantostrats on mica particle surface.

The example of the Concha Margaritifera that also can mention comprises the natural mica that is coated with titanium oxide, iron oxides, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

In the middle of the commercially available Concha Margaritifera in market, can mention: Concha Margaritifera Timica, the Flamenco being sold by Engelhard company and Duochrome (based on Muscovitum); The Timiron Muscovitum of being sold by Merck company; The Concha Margaritifera based on Prestige Muscovitum of being sold by Eckart company; And the Concha Margaritifera based on Sunshine synthetic mica of being sold by Sun Chemical company.

Concha Margaritifera can especially have color or tone yellow, pink colour, red, bronzy, orange, brown, golden and/or coppery.

As the explanation that can be used to the Concha Margaritifera in environment of the present invention, can mention: bright gold color by name (Brillant gold) 212G (Timica) that especially sold by Engelhard company, golden (Gold) 222C (Cloisonne), dodge golden (Sparkle gold) (Timica), the golden Concha Margaritifera of golden (Gold) 4504 (Chromalite) and monarch's gold (Monarch gold) 233X (Cloisonne); The by name tiny bronze colour (Bronze fine) (17384) of especially being sold by Merck company (Colorona) and bronze (Bronze) (17353) (Colorona) and the by name super copper of being sold by Engelhard company (Super bronze) bronze Concha Margaritifera (Cloisonne); Especially by name orange (Orange) 363C (Cloisonne) being sold by Engelhard company and orange (Orange) MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by name strongly orange (the Passion orange) that sold by Merck company are (Colorona) and dumb light orange (Matte orange) (17449) orange Concha Margaritifera (Microna); Especially the brown Concha Margaritifera of antique copper by name (Nuantique copper) 340XB (Cloisonne) being sold by Engelhard company and bronze (Bronze) CL4509 (Chromalite); Especially the Concha Margaritifera with coppery tone of copper by name (Copper) 340A (Timica) being sold by Engelhard company; The by name tiny brown (Sienna fine) (17386) of especially being sold by the Merck company Concha Margaritifera with red tone (Colorona); The yellow by name (Yellow) (4502) of especially being sold by the Engelhard company Concha Margaritifera with yellow tone (Chromalite); Especially the red Concha Margaritifera with golden tone of sunstone color by name (Sunstone) G012 (Gemtone) being sold by Engelhard company; Especially the pink colour Concha Margaritifera of by name brown white (Tan opale) G005 (Gemtone) being sold by Engelhard company; Especially the black Concha Margaritifera with golden tone of antique bronze by name (the Nu antique bronze) 240AB (Timica) being sold by Engelhard company; The dumb light blueness by name (Matte blue) (17433) of especially being sold by Merck company blue Concha Margaritifera (Microna); The white pearl mother with silver color tone of the Xi Luona silver color by name (Xirona Silver) of especially being sold by Merck company; Especially the Indian summer color by name (Indian summer) of being sold by the Merck company pink orange Concha Margaritifera of fairy green (Xirona); And composition thereof.

Advantageously, be the Muscovitum that is coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxides and bismuth oxychloride according to Concha Margaritifera of the present invention.

In intended scope of the present invention, term " has the granule of metal tone " and represents the granule that its character, size, structure and apparent condition allow them to reflect the incident light, especially reflect the incident light in the mode of not glistening.

With respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions can comprise by weight 1% to 50%, 1% to 20% the granule with metal tone by weight preferably.

The granule with substantially smooth outer surface is also suitable, and reason is that they are easier to produce strong direct reflection if their size, structure and apparent condition allow, and it can be described as mirror effect.

Can be used for the granule with metal tone of the present invention, for example can be in whole compositions of viewing area reflected light, and absorb one or more wavelength not obviously.The spectral reflectance of these granules can for example be greater than 70%, better at least 80% or even 90% or 95% in the scope of 400nm-700nm.

The thickness of these granules is conventionally less than or equal to 1 μ m, is especially less than or equal to 0.7 μ m, is especially less than or equal to 0.5 μ m.

Can be used for the granule with metal tone of the present invention is especially selected from:

The granule of-at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative,

-the granule that comprises the organic of homogenous material or many materials or mineral substrate, is coated with at least one and has the layer that comprises at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative of metal tone at least in part, and

The mixture of described granule.

In the middle of the metal that can exist, can mention for example Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se and their mixture or alloy in described granule.Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and their mixture or alloy (for example bronze and pyrite) are preferred metal.

Compound, especially oxide, fluoride, chloride and the sulfide of term " metal derivative " for representing to be derived by metal.

In the metal derivative that can be present in described granule, can especially mention: metal-oxide, for example titanium oxide, TiO especially ₂; Iron oxides, especially Fe ₂o ₃; Tin-oxide; Chromated oxide; Barium sulfate; With following compound: MgF ₂, CrF ₃, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO ₂, Al ₂o ₃, MgO, Y ₂o ₃, SeO ₃, SiO, HfO ₂, ZrO ₂, CeO ₂, Nb ₂o ₅, Ta ₂o ₅, MoS ₂, and their mixture or alloy.

The example of these granules that can mention comprises alumina particles, such as by Siberline company with title Starbrite1200 sell alumina particles and by Eckart company with title the alumina particles of selling.

Also can mention: the metal dust of copper or alloy mixture, for example by Radium Bronze company to number the product of 2844 sales; Metallic pigments, for example aluminum or bronze, as the product of being sold with title Rotosafe 700 by Eckart company; The alumina particles of the silica-coating of being sold with title Visionaire Bright Silver by Eckart company; And metal alloy particle, bronze (alloy of copper and the zinc) powder of the silica-coating of for example being sold with title Visionaire Bright Natural Gold by Eckart company.

As the explanation of the granule of Second Type, can especially mention:

Be coated with the glass particle of metal level, those glass particles of especially describing in document JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

As the explanation of these granules that comprise substrate of glass, can mention: the product of being sold with title Microglass Metashine by Nippon Sheet Glass company that is coated with respectively the sheet form of silver, gold or titanium.The granule with the silver-colored substrate of glass of coating of sheet form is the granule of being sold with title Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025PS by Toyal company.The granule that this same company sells with title Crystal Star GF 550 and Crystal Star GF 2525 of serving as reasons of the granule with the substrate of glass that is coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy.Those are coated with the granule of brown iron oxides or titanium oxide, tin-oxide or its mixture, are the granule of for example being sold with title Reflecks by Engelhard company or the granule of being sold with title Metashine MC 2080GP by Nippon Sheet Glass company.

The glass particle of these washings can be coated with silicon dioxide, those glass particles of for example being sold with title Metashine Series in PS S1 or GPS1 by Nippon Sheet Glass company.

Comprise the granule of the spherical glass substrate that is coated with alternatively metal, those granules of especially being sold with title Prizmalite Microsphere by Prizmalite Industries company.

The pigment of the Metashine 1080R scope of being sold by Nippon Sheet Glass company limited is also suitable for the present invention.These pigment, the pigment of especially describing in patent application JP 2001-11340, for comprising 65% to 72% SiO ₂the titanium oxide (TiO that is coated with rutile type ₂) layer middle alkali glass thin slice.The average thickness of these glass flakes is that 1 micron, average-size are 80 microns, and the ratio of average-size/average thickness is 80.According to TiO ₂the thickness of layer, they have blue, green or yellow tone or the shade of silver color.

The granule of the borosilicate substrate that comprises silver coating is also known as " white pearl mother ".

The granule of the metallic substrates (such as aluminum, copper or bronze) that comprises sheet form is the granule of being sold with trade name Starbrite by Silberline company and the granule of being sold with trade name Visionaire by Eckart company.

Comprise the granule of the synthetic mica substrate that is coated with titanium dioxide, and for example size accounts for the granule of 12% the coated synthetic mica of titanium dioxide (fluorophologopite) substrate of the gross weight of granule comprising between 80 μ m and 100 μ m, sold with title Prominence by Nihon Koken company.

There is the granule granule that also duplexer of optional at least two layers freely with different refractive indexs forms of metal tone.These layers can have character polymerization or metal and can especially comprise at least one polymeric layer.

Therefore, but have metallic effect granule multi-layer polymer film produce granule.

Select significantly the material of each layer for forming multiple structure, the granule of formation like this is provided to the metallic effect of expectation.

This granule is especially described in WO 99/36477, US 6299979 and US 6387498, and is identified in goniochromatic part especially hereinafter.

Advantageously, the granule with metal tone according to the present invention is the granule that has the granule of spherical or non-spherical glass substrate and have metallic substrates.

According to specific embodiment, at least comprise reflection grain according to compositions of the present invention, especially selected Concha Margaritifera, the granule with metal tone and bismuth oxychloride and composition thereof.

As the example of the granule of this Second Type, can especially mention:

-comprise the granule of the synthetic mica substrate that is coated with titanium dioxide or the granule that comprises the spherical glass substrate that is coated with alternatively iron oxide brown or titanium oxide, tin-oxide or its mixture, the granule of for example being sold with title Reflecks by Engelhard company or the granule of being sold with title Metashine MC 2080GP by Nippon Sheet Glass company.This granule have been described in detail in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

-there is the granule of the mineral substrate that is coated with metal comprising of metallic effect.It can be the granule with the silver-colored borosilicate substrate applying, and it is also known as " white pearl mother ".

– comprises the granule that is coated with silver-colored spherical glass substrate, the granule of especially being sold with title MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025PS by TOYAL.The granule that comprises the spherical glass substrate that is coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy, the granule of especially being sold with title CRYSTAL STAR GF550, CRYSTAL STAR GF 2525 by same company.

-there is metallic effect and there is from the teeth outwards the granule of metallic compound, by NIPPON SHEET GLASS company with title lE 2040PS, 5MC5090PS or the coated granule alternatively that MC280GP (2523) sells; By ENGELHARD company with title SPHERICAL dC 100, jV 6 or the coated granule alternatively that A1570 sells; By ENERGY STRATEGY ASSOCIATES INC company with title STARLIGHT REFLECTIONS the coated granule alternatively of selling; By MEADOWBROOK INVENTIONS company with title BRIGHT 1E 0.008X0.008 sell alternatively by granule; By ECKART company with title (ALUMINUM POUDRE FINE LIVING) and title COSMETIC METALLIC POWDER VISIONNAIRE BRIGHT SILVER cOSMETIC METALLIC POWDER VISIONAIRE NATURAL or COSMETIC METALLC POWDER VISIONAIRE (60314) the coated granule alternatively of 560316 ° of sales.

More preferably, these reflection grains be selected from bismuth oxychloride granule, be coated with titanium oxide mica particles, and composition thereof.

According to specific embodiment, compositions of the present invention at least comprises bismuth oxychloride (CI 77163).

Advantageously, compositions of the present invention also can at least comprise the Concha Margaritifera of the borosilicate substrate that comprises silver coating, and it is also known as " white pearl mother ".This granule is the granule of being sold with trade name Xirona Silver by MERCK company.

Described compositions can comprise the reflection grain being pre-dispersed in a kind of oil that is selected from mineral oil, vegetable oil and ester oil.

According to preferred embodiment, these reflection grains are present in compositions of the present invention with form pre-dispersed at least one oil, described at least one grease separation from:

-mineral oil;

-vegetable oil, as Semen pruni armeniacae oil, Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil, Jojoba oil, almond oil, soybean oil, Canola oil, Oleum Ricini;

-ester, as octyl dodecanol, octyl dodecanol pivalate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, pentaerythritol tetraoctyl stearate, Dermol 105, Dermol DIPS, C ₁₂-C ₁₅alkylbenzene acid esters, ethylhexyl ethyl hexanoate, ethylhexyl hydroxy stearic acid ester;

-and composition thereof.

More preferably, grease separation is from ethyl (2) hexyl hydroxy stearic acid ester or Oleum Ricini, preferably ethyl (2) hexyl hydroxy stearic acid ester.

Therefore, according to specifically and preferred embodiment, compositions according to the present invention comprises at physiologically acceptable medium

(i) microcapsule at least of the present invention, and

(ii) at least with the reflection grain of form pre-dispersed at least one oil, described at least one grease separation is from ethyl (2) hexyl hydroxy stearic acid ester or Oleum Ricini, preferably ethyl (2) hexyl hydroxy stearic acid ester.

Advantageously, reflection grain is selected from bismuth oxychloride granule and is coated with the mica particles of titanium oxide, and described granule is pre-dispersed ethyl (2) hexyl hydroxy stearic acid ester.

According to specific embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises predispersion, with respect to the gross weight of predispersion, described predispersion is included in 68% to 72% the bismuth oxychloride by weight in 28% to 32% ethyl (2) hexyl hydroxy stearic acid ester by weight, the weight ratio that is bismuth oxychloride/oil is more than or equal to 2, preferably in 2 to 2.6 scope.

This dispersion is with trade name Xirona Silver by MERCK company the product that Liquid Silver sells.

other wetting agent

For specific nursing application, can comprise at least one other wetting agent (also referred to as wetting agent) according to compositions of the present invention.

With respect to the gross weight of described compositions, wetting agent can with by weight 0.1% to 15%, especially by weight 0.5% to 10% or even by weight 1% to 6% content be present in compositions.

Polyhydroxy-alcohol, preferably C ₂-C ₈polyhydroxy-alcohol, C more preferably ₃-C ₆polyhydroxy-alcohol known to wetting agent or wetting agent, preferably, for example glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and two glycerol, and composition thereof, glycerol and derivant thereof.

Also can comprise other wetting agent or wetting agent according to compositions of the present invention.

These other wetting agents or the wetting agent that can especially mention comprise: Sorbitol; Glycol ethers (especially comprising 3 to 16 carbon atoms), as MPG (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, dipropylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether or tripropylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, monoethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, diethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether or triethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether; Urea and derivant thereof, the ethoxy urea (Hydrovance) of especially being sold by National Starch (2-ethoxy urea); Lactic acid; Hyaluronic acid; Fruit acid (AHA); Salicylic acid (BHA); Pyridonecarboxylic acid sodium; Xylitol; Serine; Sodium lactate; Sargassum enzyme and derivant thereof; Chitosan and derivant thereof; Collagen protein; Plankton; Herba Imperatae (Imperata cylindra) extract of being sold with title Moist 24 by Sederma company; Acrylate homopolymer, for example, from NOF company beta glucan, particularly from the carboxymethyl beta glucan sodium of Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; By Nestle with title the mixture of passionflower oil, almond oil, Semen Maydis oil and the Testa oryzae oil of selling; C-glycosides derivatives, as those C-glycosides derivatives of describing in patent application WO 02/,051 828, particularly in water/propylene glycol mixture (by weight 60%/40%), contain by weight C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy propane of the solution form of 30% active material, as by Chimex with trade name Mexoryl the product of manufacturing; The musk rose oil of being sold by Nestle; The collagen protein of marine source and the spheroid of chondroitin sulfate (Atelocollagen) sold with title Marine Filling Spheres by Engelhard Lyon company; Hyaluronic acid spheroid, as those hyaluronic acid spheroids of being sold by Engelhard Lyon company; Arginine; Argan oil; And composition thereof.

To preferably use and be selected from glycerol, urea and derivant thereof and (especially sold by National Starch ), C-glycosides derivatives (as in patent application WO 02/051828 describe those C-glycosides derivatives, particularly in water/propylene glycol mixture (by weight 60%/40%), contain by weight C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy propane of the solution form of 30% active material, as by Chimex with trade name sell product), Argan oil, and composition thereof wetting agent.

More preferably, will use glycerol.

opacifier/sunscreen

Opacifier is the important skin care item for preventing photoaging and skin carcinoma.There are two groups of opacifiers: UVA opacifier, it is blocked in the UV radiation in the wave-length coverage of about 320nm to 400nm; And UVB opacifier, it is blocked in the radiation in the scope of 290nm to 320nm.

Compositions according to the present invention is included in effective hydrophilic and/or lipophilic, organic and/or inorganic UV shading component in UV-A district and/or UV-B district.

Especially, UV shading component according to the present invention can have the solubility parameter in 8.0 to 9.5 scopes.Described UV shading component has good plasticiser function.

Advantageously, UV opacifier according to the present invention can have the molecular weight of 150g/mol to 500g/mol, and the benzene nucleus or the electron resonance group that comprise hydrophobic site and be connected with polarity site.

Hydrophilic and/or lipophilic organic UV shading component is especially selected from dibenzoylmethane derivative, cinnamic acid derivative, salicyclic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivates, β, β-diphenylacrylate, para-amino benzoic acid (PABA) derivant, benzylidene camphor derivant, and composition thereof.

As the example of organic UV shading component, can mention the shading component hereinafter representing with its INCI title:

-para-amino benzoic acid derivant:

-PABA，

-ethyl PABA,

-ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA,

-ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, is especially sold with trade mark " Escalol 507 " by ISP,

-glyceryl PABA,

-dibenzoylmethane derivative:

-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethise, is especially sold with trade mark " Parsol1789 " by Hoffmann-LaRoche,

-isopropyl diphenyl formyl methane,

-salicyclic acid derivatives:

-heliophan, is especially sold with trade mark " Eusolex HMS " by Rona/EM Industries,

-ethylhexyl Salicylate, is sold with trade mark " Neo Heliopan OS " by Haarmann & Reimer,

-dipropylene glycol Salicylate, is sold with trade mark " Dipsal " by Scher,

-TEA Salicylate, is sold with trade mark " Neo Heliopan TS " by Haarmann & Reimer,

-cinnamic acid derivative:

-ESCALOL 557, is especially sold with trade mark " Parsol MCX " by Hoffmann-LaRoche,

-isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,

-isopentyl Methoxycinnamate, is sold with trade mark " Neo Heliopan E 1000 " by Haarmann & Reimer,

-cinoxate,

-DEA Methoxycinnamate,

-diisopropyl methyl cinnamic acid ester,

-glyceryl ethylhexoate dimethoxy-cinnamic acid ester,

-β, β-diphenylacrylate:

-octocrilene, is especially sold with trade mark " Uvinul N539 " by BASF,

-etocrilene (Etocrylene), especially BASF sells with trade mark " Uvinul N35 ",

-benzophenone derivates:

-BP-1, is sold with trade mark " Uvinul 400 " by BASF,

-BP-2, is sold with trade mark " Uvinul 50 " by BASF,

-BP-3 or oxybenzone, sold with trade mark " Uvinul M40 " by BASF,

-UVINUL MS 40, is sold with trade mark " Uvinul MS40 " by BASF,

-benzophenone-5,

-benzophenone-6, are sold with trade mark " Helisorb 11 " by Norquay,

-benzylidene camphor derivant:

-Terephthalidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

-4 methyl benzylidene camphor.

-and composition thereof.

Preferred UV shading component is selected from cinnamic acid derivative, β, β-diphenylacrylate, salicyclic acid derivatives, and composition thereof.

Preferred UV shading component be especially selected from ESCALOL 557, octocrilene and Ethylhexyl salicylate, and composition thereof.

Especially can mention: by BASF AG with trade mark UVINUL MC the ESCALOL 557 of selling; By SYMRISE company with trade mark NEO HELIOPAN the Ethylhexyl salicylate of selling; And by SYMRISE company with trade mark NEO HELIOPAN the octocrilene of selling.

With respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions can comprise by weight 0.1% to 30%, for example by weight 0.5% to 20%, for example by weight 1% to 15%, for example at least 1% UV shading component by weight.

According to an exemplary embodiment, compositions can comprise microcapsule and at least one UV shading component, and the weight ratio of microcapsule and this at least one UV shading component [mineral filler/UV shading component] for example, in 0.20 to 10,1 to 9.5, preferably 3 to 9 scope.

Advantageously, compositions of the present invention comprises at least one UV filtering agent and activating agent finally.

activating agent

In order to be particularly useful for nursing skin or cosmetic skin, can comprise at least one activating agent according to compositions of the present invention, this activating agent is selected from:

According to a favourable embodiment, active cosmetic agent combination that can be supplementary with one or more according to compositions of the present invention.

These activating agents can be selected from anti-wrinkle agent vitamin (especially B3, B8, B12 and B9), wetting agent, decorticating agent, aging resistance activating agent, depigmenting agent, antioxidant etc.

With respect to the gross weight of compositions, these activating agents can with by weight 0.001% to 20%, preferably with by weight 0.01% to 10%, be more preferably present in compositions with the content in 0.01% to 5% scope by weight.

Anti-wrinkle agent: can mention: ascorbic acid and derivant thereof, as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbic acid glucoside; Tocopherol and derivant thereof, as tocopherol acetas; Nicotinic acid and precursor thereof, as nicotiamide; Ubiquinone; Glutathion and precursor thereof, as L-oxo thiazoline-4-carboxylic acid; C-glycoside compounds and derivant thereof, as described plant extract (the especially extract of Crithmum maritimum and Folium olive) and vegetable protein and hydrolysate (as the protolysate of Oryza sativa L. or Semen sojae atricolor) thereof, Sargassum extract (the especially extract of Thallus Laminariae (Thallus Eckloniae)) especially hereinafter; Bacterial extract; Sapogenin, as diosgenin and the extract of extract, the especially dioscorea japonica of Wild yam (Dioscorea) plant that comprises sapogenin; 'alpha '-hydroxy acids; Beta-hydroxy acid, as salicylic acid and 5-n-decoyl salicylic acid; Oligopeptide and pseudo-dipeptides and acyl derivative thereof, especially 2-[acetyl group-(3-trifluoromethyl) amino] and-3-methylbutyryl base amino } acetic acid and the lipopeptid with the trade name sale of Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000 by Sederma company; Lycopene; Manganese salt and magnesium salt, especially manganese gluconate and magnesium gluconate; And composition thereof;

Decorticating agent: will mention beta-hydroxy acid, especially salicylic acid and the derivant except 5-n-decoyl salicylic acid thereof; Urea; Glycolic, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; 4-(2-ethoxy) piperazine-1-propane sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora Camellia extract; Mel; 2-Acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose; MDGA sodium, 'alpha '-hydroxy acids (AHA), beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), and composition thereof;

Depigmenting agent: can mention: ceramide; Vitamin C and derivant thereof, especially vitamin C G, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C; Alpha-arbutin and β-arbutin; Ferulic acid; Kojic acid; Resorcinol and derivant thereof; D-acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid calcium; Thioctic acid; Ellagic acid; Vitamin B3; Phenylethyl resorcinol, as the Symwhite from Symrise company kiwi fruit (Fructus actinidiae chinensis (Actinidia the chinensis)) fruit juice of being sold by Gattefosse; The extract of Paeonia suffruticosa (Paeonia suffructicosa) root, as by Ichimaru Pharcos company with title Botanpi Liquid the product of selling; Brown sugar (Caulis Sacchari sinensis, Saccharum officinarum) extract, as the extract of the molasses of being sold with title Molasses Liquid by Taiyo Kagaku company; The mixture of 9-undecylenic acid and endecatylene acyl group phenylalanine, as the Sepiwhite from Seppic

Antioxidant: especially can mention: tocopherol and ester thereof, especially tocopherol acetas; EDTA; Ascorbic acid and derivant thereof, especially magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbic acid glucoside; Chelating agen, as BHT, BHA, N, N '-bis-(3,4,5-trimethoxy benzyl) ethylenediamine and salt thereof; And composition thereof.

When main active ascorbic acid glucoside is present in according in make-up composition of the present invention time, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, it is with lower than by weight 0.05%, more preferably 0.01% amount exists by weight.

galenic formula

Can be for keratin material, be particularly useful for the form of make-up composition and/or the care composition of skin or lip according to compositions of the present invention.Particularly, according to compositions of the present invention be used in particular for being applied to the BB product of face or cervical region or foundation cream, compositions for hiding black-eyed product, concealer product, You Seshuan, for the colored composition of nursing skin or cosmetic skin (being particularly useful for face or health) or after shining.

In a preferred embodiment, be disposable compositions according to compositions of the present invention: said composition is not used in after being applied on skin and is rinsed.

Another preferred embodiment in, be not contained in the allotter that comprises pump according to compositions of the present invention.The risk of avoiding microcapsule to break due to it, therefore this is favourable.In fact,, in the time using such allotter, described microcapsule can be broken before being applied to keratin material.

It will be appreciated that, can be to be generally used for any lid human relations form of local application according to compositions of the present invention, especially the form of the milk type of liquid consistency or semiliquid denseness, or soft, semi-solid denseness or the cream of solid denseness or the form of gel type, or alternatively, by fat being dispersed in mutually to the Emulsion (O/W) that obtains in water, water being dispersed in to Emulsion (W/O), multiple Emulsion (W/O/W, O/W/O) or the foam that fat obtains in mutually.

Especially, compositions is to be selected from following form: gel, especially clear gel; Water-in-oil emulsion; Oil-in-water emulsion; And foam.

surfactant

Can comprise at least one surfactant (emulsifying agent) independent use or that use as mixture according to compositions of the present invention, this surfactant is especially selected from amphoteric surfactant, anion surfactant, cationic surfactant and non-ionic surface active agent.

With respect to the gross weight of compositions, surfactant conventionally with for example by weight the ratio in 0.3% to 20%, especially by weight 0.5% to 15%, especially by weight 1% to 10% scope be present in compositions.

Undoubtedly, option table surface-active agent makes stable emulsion effectively, the Emulsion of especially considering according to the present invention, the i.e. Emulsion of O/W, W/O or O/W/O type.In this limit of power that is chosen in those skilled in the art.

For example, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, when emulsifying agent Phosphoric acid monohexadecyl ester potassium is present in according in make-up composition of the present invention time, the scope of the ratio of this emulsifying agent can be for example by weight 0.2% to 3%, especially by weight 0.5% to 1.5%, more preferably by weight 0.8% to 1.2%, even more preferably by weight 1%.

o/W emulsifying agent

Can mention for the example of O/W Emulsion and comprise non-ionic surface active agent, especially: (oxyalkylenated) derivant of the ester of polyhydric alcohol and fatty acid (this fatty acid have for example comprise 8 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated or unsaturated chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms better) and oxygen alkylene thereof, comprise the derivant of oxyethylation unit and/or oxypropylation unit, as C ₈-C ₂₄the derivant of the glyceride of fatty acid and its oxygen alkylene; C ₈-C ₂₄the derivant of the macrogol ester of fatty acid and oxygen alkylene thereof; C ₈-C ₂₄the derivant of the sorbitol ester of fatty acid and oxygen alkylene thereof; C ₈-C ₂₄sugar (sucrose, glucose or the alkyl glucose) ester of fatty acid and the derivant of oxygen alkylene thereof; Fatty alcohol ether; C ₈-C ₂₄the sugar ether of fatty alcohol; And composition thereof.

The glyceride of the fatty acid that can especially mention comprise tristerin (glyceryl monostearate, distearin and/or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA title: tristerin) or glycerol ricinoleate, and composition thereof.

The macrogol ester of the fatty acid that can especially mention comprises polyglycol distearate (polyethylene glycol mono stearate, polyglycol distearate and/or Polyethylene Glycol tristearate), more specifically Polyethylene Glycol 50OE monostearate (CTFA title: PEG-50 stearate) and Polyethylene Glycol 100OE monostearate (CTFA title: PEG-100 stearate), and composition thereof.

Also can use the mixture of these surfactants, the product that comprises tristerin and PEG-100 stearate of for example being sold with title Arlacel 165 by Uniqema company and the product that comprises tristerin (glycerol list-distearate) and potassium stearate of being sold with title Tegin (CTFA title: tristerin SE) by Goldschmidt company.

The glucose that can mention or the fatty acid ester of alkyl glucose especially comprise: glucose cetylate; Alkyl glucose sesquistearate, for example Glucate SS; Alkyl glucose cetylate, for example methyl glucoside cetylate or ethyl glucuronide cetylate; The fatty ester of methyl glucoside, the especially diester of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA title: methyl glucoside dioleate); The mixed ester (CTFA title: methyl glucoside dioleate/hydroxy stearic acid ester) of methyl glucoside and oleic acid/hydroxy stearic acid mixture; The ester (CTFA title: methyl glucoside isostearate) of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid; Methyl glucoside and lauric ester (CTFA title: methyl glucoside laurate); The monoesters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid and the mixture of diester (CTFA title: methyl glucoside sesquialter isostearate); The mixture (CTFA title: Glucate SS) of methyl glucoside and stearic monoesters and diester, the product of especially being sold with title Glucate SS by Amerchol company; And composition thereof.

The example of the oxyethylation ether of the fatty acid that can mention and glucose or alkyl glucose comprises: the oxyethylation ether of fatty acid and methyl glucoside, especially the polyglycol ether (CTFA title: PEG-20 methyl glucoside distearate) of methyl glucoside and the stearic diester of the ethylene oxide that comprises about 20mol, the product of for example being sold with title Glucam E-20 distearate by Amerchol company; Methyl glucoside and the stearic monoesters of ethylene oxide that comprises about 20mol and the polyglycol ether (CTFA title: PEG-20 Glucate SS) of the mixture of diester, especially the product of being sold with title Glucamate SSE-20 by Amerchol company, and the product of being sold with title Grillocose PSE-20 by Goldschmidt company; And composition thereof.

The example of the sucrose ester that can mention comprises palm stearin acid sucrose ester, stearic acid sucrose ester and sucrose monolaurate.

The example of the fatty alcohol ether that can mention comprises: comprise 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the polyglycol ether of the fatty alcohol of 10 to 22 carbon atoms especially, the polyglycol ether of for example spermol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol (mixture of spermol and stearyl alcohol).The example that can mention comprises and comprises 1 to 200 oxyethylene group, the ether of 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups preferably, and for example CTFA name is called the ether of ceteareth-20 and ceteareth-30 and mixture.

The sugar ether that can especially mention is alkyl polyglucoside, for example: decyl glucoside, as the product of being sold with title Mydol 10 by Kao Chemicals company, the product of being sold with title Plantaren 2000 by Henkel company, and the product of being sold with title Oramix NS 10 by SEPPIC company; Caprylyl/capryl glucoside, the product of selling with title Lutensol GD 70 as the product of being sold with title Oramix CG 110 by SEPPIC company or by BASF AG; Lauryl glucoside, as the product of being sold with title Plantaren 1200N and Plantacare 1200 by Henkel company; Coco-Glucoside, as the product of being sold with title Plantacare 818/UP by Henkel company; Alternatively together with cetearyl alcohol as the cetearyl glucoside of mixture, the product of for example being sold with title Montanov 68 by SEPPIC, the product of being sold with title Tego-Care CG90 by Goldschmidt company and the product of being sold with title Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel company; Arachidic alcohol glucoside, the product of being sold with title Montanov 202 by SEPPIC company of the form of the mixture of for example arachidic alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidic alcohol glucoside; Cocoyl ethyl cyclophosphadenosine glycoside, for example, with the product of being sold with title Montanov 82 by SEPPIC company of the form of the mixture (35/65) of spermol and stearyl alcohol; And composition thereof.

w/O emulsifying agent

For W/O Emulsion, can use surfactant or silicone surfactant based on hydrocarbon.

According to an embodiment modification, the surfactant based on hydrocarbon is preferred.

The example of the surfactant based on hydrocarbon that can mention comprises PEPA, the PEG-30 dimerization hydroxy stearic acid ester of for example being sold with numbering Arlacel P 135 by Uniqema company, and the polyglyceryl-2 dimerization hydroxy stearic acid ester of being sold with numbering Dehymuls PGPH by Cognis company.

The example of the silicone surfactant that can mention comprises: alkyl dimethicone copolyol, the lauryl polymethyl siloxane copolyol of for example being sold with title Dow Corning 5200Formulation Aid by Dow Corning company and the Abil EM 90 of being sold with title Abil EM 90 by Goldschmidt company, or the mixture of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/Abil EM 90/lauric acid hexyl ester of being sold with title Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt company.

Also can add one or more co-emulsifier to it.Co-emulsifier can advantageously be selected from the group that comprises polyhydric alcohol Arrcostab.The polyhydric alcohol Arrcostab that can especially mention comprises: glyceride and/or sorbitan ester (polyglyceryl-3 diisopstearate of for example being sold with title Lameform TGI by Cognis company); Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (as the product of being sold with title Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt company); Sorbitan isostearate (as the product of being sold with title Arlacel 987 by ICI company); Sorbitan glyceryl isostearate (product of for example being sold with title Arlacel 986 by ICI company); And composition thereof.

Prepare these compositionss according to conventional method.

Such compositions can be with the form of face and/or body care or cosmetic product, and can be modulated, for example, with the form of cream in tank or tube fluid.

But according to fluid compositions solid of the present invention or that degree is different, and there is the outward appearance of cream, gel (especially clear gel), ointment, Emulsion, lotion, essence, paste, foam (thering is or do not have relevant propellant), patch.

According to embodiment, compositions is with the form of gel (especially clear gel), and with respect to the weight of compositions, comprises 1% to 10% microcapsule by weight.

Can also be with the form of gel (especially clear gel or translucent gels) according to compositions of the present invention, with respect to the weight of compositions, said composition comprise one or more hydrophilic gelating agents and comprise by weight 1% to 10%, preferred 1% to 5% microcapsule.

Preferably, the viscosity of measuring according to the Rheomat 25 DEG C time of gel of the present invention is more than or equal to 20UD (No. 3 rotors (Mobile)).

Conventionally at 25 DEG C, the viscometer RHEOMAT RM 180 that is suitable for the viscosity for the treatment of tested product that utilization has No. 3 rotors (rotor is selected for has the measurement of UD unit deviation between 10 and 90) measures viscosity, in compositions, make rotor rotate after 10 minutes, measure its medium shear rate 200s ^-1.Then, UD value can utilize corresponding table to convert pool (1 pool=0.1Pas) to.

More preferably, the water that compositions comprises gelation.

The hydrophilic gellant that can especially mention comprises the thickening polymer of water miscible or water dispersible.These polymer can especially be selected from:

-modification or unmodified CVP Carbopol ETD2050, for example: the product of being sold with designation card POP (Carbopol) (CTFA title: carbomer) by Goodrich company; Polyacrylate,

-polymethacrylates, the product of selling with title Hispagel as the product of being sold with title Lubrajel and Norgel by Guardian company or by Hispano Chimica company;

-polyacrylamide; Alternatively crosslinked and/or

-neutral 2-acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acid polymer and copolymer, poly-(2-acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acid) (the CTFA title: polypropylene acyl group dimethyl taurine ammonium) of for example being sold with title Hostacerin AMPS by Clariant company;

The acrylamide of-W/O Emulsion form and the crosslinked anionic copolymer of AMPS, the product of for example being sold with title Sepigel 305 (CTFA title: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7) and with title Simulgel 600 (CTFA title: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers/2-Methylpentadecane/polysorbate80) by SEPPIC company;

-polysaccharide biopolymer, for example xanthan gum, guar gum, tracasol, acacin, scleroglucan (scleroglucans), chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenin, gellan gum, alginate,

-cellulose, as microcrystalline Cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxy methocel and hydroxypropyl cellulose; And composition thereof.Preferably, these polymer can be selected from acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, as carbopol (Carbopol) ultrez 20, carbopol ultrez 21, Permulen TR-1, Permulen TR-2, carbopol 1382, carbopol ETD 2020, such as the carbomer (carbomer) of Synthalen K, carbopol 980, such as ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/stearyl alcohol polyethers-8 methacrylate copolymer of Aristoflex SNC, such as the acrylate copolymer of carbopol Aqua SF-1, such as ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/stearyl alcohol polyethers-25 methacrylate cross linked polymer of Aristoflex HMS, such as the ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate of Arisfoflex AVC, with xanthan gum such as Keltrol CG etc., but also not only contribute to the viscosity that remains suitable, and then make capsule suspension fabulous and and then make capsule stable and contribute to provide any polymer of the transparency within the shelf-life.

With respect to the gross weight of described compositions, these gellant can be with for example by weight 0.001% to 10%, preferably by weight 0.01% to 5%, more preferably 0.05% to 3% amount exists by weight.

According to specific embodiment, the water of compositions comprises at least one neutral 2-acrylamide-2-methylpro panesulfonic acid polymer and copolymer and a kind of polysaccharide biopolymer.

More preferably, aqueous gel is transparent.

Statement " transparent aqueous medium " refer to allow light by and do not cause the substrate of the deflection that refraction or reflection cause.The transparency of aqueous medium can use scopometer to measure.Can use the portable Turbidimeter from HACH company model, for example, for measuring the transparency scope of compositions.When the measured value of turbidity between 0 and 250NTU between time, it is transparent that compositions is considered to, and when the value of turbidity is during at 250NTU to 1000NTU, be considered to translucent.

In the time that transparent compositions is placed on the front of the black line that 0.01m that the diameter drawn on white paper is 2mm is thick, contrary with opaque compositions, this transparent compositions represents this black line, that is to say, opaque compositions does not allow to represent this black line.

According to the color-changing composition with transparent gel form of the present invention, preferably include water and multiple multilamellar microcapsule that comprises releasable one or more coloring agent.

First preferred embodiment in, clear gel according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic gellant and at least one water miscible softening agent and/or has one or more lipids of polar portion.

First preferred embodiment in, clear gel according to the present invention comprises the different multilamellar microcapsule that comprises one or more releasable coloring agent of at least two types.

According to clear gel of the present invention, it is BB product or foundation cream preferably, very strong moisturizing sensation, transparent, clean main body outward appearance are provided, wherein, during using, have there is sensation as snug as a bug in a rug and after using, there is completely naturally cosmetic results.These features contribute to provide skin-care effect sensation (moistening, moisturizing with transparent) and cosmetic effect (suitable covering).

Advantageously, transparent gel pack is containing the water that can be used as extender and/or softening agent, this extender and/or softening agent allow the better expansion of microcapsule and/or soften, thereby make microcapsule during applying be easier to break, and can in the time applying, not have any granule sensation.The example of the possible component of water and this water is above disclosed.

The lipid by introducing one or more water miscible softening agents and/or one or more with polar portion, can further strengthen moisturizing.The ester (as PEG-7 olive oil acid esters, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate) of the silane of PEG modification and silicone (as two-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane) and/or PEG modification can be used to strengthen moisturizing.

Also can add solubilizing agent to maintain the performance of clear gel in the time storing, especially so that softening agent is dissolved in water, to make and to maintain gel is transparent and stable within the shelf-life.Polysorbate20, PEG-60 castor oil hydrogenated can the referred examples as solubilizing agent.

Clear gel according to the present invention presents very attractive in appearance, clean and clean and tidy outward appearance, wherein during using, discharges pigment, and imperceptible any granule.After using, provide ideally and dressing effect equably.

According to clear gel of the present invention preferred embodiment, comprising:

Be selected from least one following polymer: acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, for example Permulen TR-1, Permulen TR-2, carbopol 1382, carbopol ETD 2020, preferably with 0 to 10 % by weight, the concentration of 0 to 2 % by weight more preferably; Carbomer, as Synthalen K, carbopol 980, preferably with 0 to 10 % by weight, the concentration of 0 to 2 % by weight more preferably; Ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/stearyl alcohol polyethers-8 methacrylate copolymer, for example Aristoflex SNC, preferably with 0 to 10 % by weight, the concentration of 0 to 2 % by weight more preferably; Acrylate copolymer, for example carbopol Aqua SF-1, preferably with 0 to 10 % by weight, the concentration of 0 to 2 % by weight more preferably; Ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate/stearyl alcohol polyethers-25 methacrylate cross linked polymer, for example Aristoflex HMS, preferably with 0 to 10 % by weight, the concentration of 0 to 2 % by weight more preferably; Ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate, for example Arisfoflex AVC, preferably with 0 to 10 % by weight, the concentration of 0 to 4 % by weight more preferably; And, xanthan gum, for example Keltrol CG, preferably with 0 to 10 % by weight, the concentration of 0 to 4 % by weight more preferably.

In addition, clear gel can comprise at least one following extender: water, such as deionized water, preferably with the concentration of 0 to 90 % by weight, the concentration of 30 % by weight to 70 % by weight more preferably; Alcohol, preferably with the concentration of 0 to 50 % by weight, the concentration of 1 % by weight to 20 % by weight more preferably; Glycol, such as propylene glycol, butanediol, preferably with the concentration of 0 to 50 % by weight, the concentration of 1 % by weight to 15 % by weight more preferably; Polyhydric alcohol, such as glycerol, tetrol, preferably with the concentration of 0 to 50 % by weight, the concentration of 1 % by weight to 10 % by weight more preferably.

In addition, clear gel can comprise: at least one water solublity softening agent, two-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane that this water solublity softening agent is selected from, PEG-7 olive oil acid esters, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, with the concentration of 0 to 20 % by weight, the concentration of 0 to 5 % by weight more preferably; And at least one solubilizing agent, for example polysorbate20, PEG-60 castor oil hydrogenated, with the concentration of 0 to 10 % by weight, the concentration of 1 % by weight to 5 % by weight more preferably.

After gel is made, microcapsule (such as Magic60-WP0105 and Magic50-BW0105 from Korea Particle Technology), with the concentration of 0.1 % by weight to 30 % by weight, the concentration of 1 % by weight to 10 % by weight more preferably, in the end step is accompanied by soft stirring and is introduced into, and without side machine scraper.

For care composition, with respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions comprises by weight 0.1% to 5%, 0.1% to 3% microcapsule by weight preferably.

This obtained clear gel and microcapsule present pure and clean outward appearance, there is fabulous stability :-20/20 DEG C (5 cycle), room temperature (25 DEG C, 2 months), 37 DEG C (2 months) and 45 DEG C (2 months).During using, microcapsule discharges pigment, and imperceptible any granule.After using, provide perfect and uniform dressing effect.

Clear gel also can be by painted slightly.

In this case, clear gel comprises at least one non-inclusive coloring agent, and based on the gross weight of total composition, preferably the amount of this non-inclusive coloring agent is less than 1% by weight.

The also form of gel cream or emulsifying gel of compositions, comprises oil and surfactant.

According to another embodiment, color-changing composition according to the present invention is with the form of foam, and with respect to the weight of compositions, this foam comprises 1% to 30% microcapsule by weight.

Term " compositions of form of foam " and term " preparation of foam-type " have identical connotation, and should be understood as that the compositions that refers to the gas phase (for example air) that comprises bubble form; Another equivalent terms is " compositions of volume expansion ".

In one embodiment, in the situation that not using any propellant, obtain foam compositions (non-aerosol foam).

Another preferred embodiment in, use propellant obtain foam compositions (aerosol foam).

Can be obtained by the compositions of the present invention that is packaged in the conduct " basic compositions " in product according to the compositions of form of foam of the present invention.Except basic compositions, this product also can comprise propellant.

Therefore, the invention still further relates to a kind of product, it comprises:

A. limit the container of at least one chamber;

B. be contained in described indoor compositions of the present invention;

C. for the propellant to described indoor described compositions pressurization; With

D. have the dispensing head of opening, described dispensing head is optionally communicated with described chamber fluid, to transmit the compositions of described pressurization of form of foam.

According to another embodiment, the present invention relates to the box of one of a kind of product that comprises restriction above and applicator.

Use compositions of the present invention and air or noble gas, according to the composition stable of form of foam of the present invention form the form of mousse.

Described air or noble gas can especially account for the compositions of form of foam volume 10% to 500%, preferably 20% to 200%, for example 30% to 100%.

This volume can calculate by the density of the compositions of the density of more basic compositions and form of foam.

Except air, allow the especially noble gas of gas of the compositions that obtains form of foam, for example mixture of nitrogen, carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxide, rare gas or described gas.In the time of compound that compositions comprises oxidation-sensitive, preferably use oxygen-free gas, such as nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

Be incorporated into the amount of the gas in basic compositions, contribute to the density of the compositions that regulates form of foam to desired value, for example, be less than or equal to 0.12g/cm ³.

The compositions of form of foam of the present invention can have and is for example less than or equal to 0.12g/cm ³density, for example, at 0.02g/cm ³to 0.11g/cm ³, 0.06g/cm preferably ³to 0.10g/cm ³scope in, according to following scheme the temperature of approximately 20 DEG C and under atmospheric pressure measure this density.

density measure

To being incorporated into the polishing of 50ml cup (V ₁) in the compositions of 50ml test, this polishing it is high and have a cylindrical packing space of the bottom of diameter 46mm that cup defines 30mm.Described cup has diapire and the thick sidewall of 12mm that 10mm is thick.

Before measuring, wait that the compositions that characterized and cup maintain at the temperature of about 20 DEG C.Measure the tare weight of this glass and record gravimetric value (M ₁).Then, the compositions of form of foam is incorporated in cup, to occupy whole volumes, during filling cup, avoids the formation of bubble simultaneously.Make this device leave standstill 10 seconds, so that mousse is fully expanded.Then, at (the M that weighs ₂) before, the top of cup is got rid of.According to regular ρ=(M ₂-M ₁)/50, assessment density.

stability measurement

Go out gratifying stability according to the compositions display of form of foam of the present invention, can, by according to the scheme of describing for density measure, after 10 minutes, measure the volume (V of residual mousse in cup above ₂), carry out computational stability.

Ratio V ₂/ V ₁ratio between volume after 10 seconds of compositions of the volume corresponding to the compositions of form of foam after 10 minutes and form of foam.

Statement " gratifying stability " is particularly useful for ratio be greater than 0.85, be especially greater than 0.90, be for example greater than the compositions of 0.95 form of foam.

For the compositions of the form of foam of given weight, the density of the volume of the compositions of form of foam and the compositions of form of foam is inversely proportional to.Therefore, the ratio between the density of the compositions of the form of foam of measuring after 10 seconds and the density of compositions of the form of foam measured after 10 minutes can be greater than 0.85, especially be greater than 0.90, for example, be greater than 0.95.

According to the compositions of form of foam of the present invention, air intermittently (air pause) can advantageously have in 20 μ m to 500 μ m, the equal size of number within the scope of 100 μ m to 300 μ m preferably.

The compositions of form of foam can obtain from the compositions of the present invention in allotter.This allotter can be aerosol apparatus, and except basic compositions, this aerosol apparatus also comprises propellant.

This propellant can be basic compositions by weight be less than 20%, especially can be basic compositions gross weight by weight 1% to 10%, for example by weight 2% to 8%, for example by weight at least 5%.Spendable propellant can be selected from carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrous oxide and volatile hydrocarbon (as butane, iso-butane, propane, ethane, pentane, Fancol ID or 2-Methylpentadecane) and composition thereof.

It is propane/butane mix (liquefied petroleum gas or LPG) especially, weight ratio [propane/butane] in 0.1 to 1 scope, especially 0.31.

The pressure of propellant in aerosol, the pressure of for example described propane/butane mix, can be at 0.20MPa to 0.50MPa, for example 0.20MPa to 0.40MPa, especially in the scope of 0.25MPa to 0.35MPa.

The compositions of the form of foam that the present invention adopts can be by for example, for example, for mixing, stir or disperseing the method for Compressed Gas (air, compound, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, oxygen or helium based on chlorofluorocarbon) to prepare, prepare for the method for mixing and stir under foam (surfactant) existence.

Especially, the compositions of form of foam is prepared by following: conventionally under heat condition, blending ingredients while stirring, then extended volume under gas effect, gas can be introduced into during the stage of cooling compositions or after compositions preparation, for example use the device for extended volume of Mondomix type, agitator, scraped surface heat exchanger or the dynamic mixer of Kenwood type (for example, IMT type).Gas is air or nitrogen preferably.

Can be packaged in container according to compositions of the present invention, this container limits at least one chamber that comprises described compositions, and described container is closed parts and seals.Container can be equipped with the parts for allocated product.

Container can be tank.

Described container can be made up of thermoplastic at least in part.As the example of thermoplastic, can mention polypropylene or polyethylene.Alternatively, container is made up of non-thermoplastic material, is especially made up of glass or metal (or alloy).

For example, can or carry out spread compositions with applicator by finger.

Container is preferably used in combination with applicator, and this applicator comprises that at least one is configured to compositions to be applied to the parts of smearing on keratin substances.

The embodiment favourable according to another, applicator comprises applying nozzle.

With respect to according to the weight of foam compositions of the present invention, described compositions comprises by weight 1% to 30%, 3% to 10% microcapsule by weight preferably.The foam obtaining is tiny (minute bubbles) and comprise painted microcapsule.Described foam, being administered to before keratin material, has white outward appearance, being administered to keratin material, especially on skin and after homogenization, and the coloured outward appearance of tool.

With respect to the weight of compositions, in the time that foam compositions comprises by weight at least 3% microcapsule, it preferably comprises filler and/or pigment, for example TiO ₂, ZnO, CeO, bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride, advantageously TiO ₂.

Foam compositions also can comprise calcium carbonate (CaCO ₃) to avoid the painted of water.

With respect to the weight of compositions, foam compositions according to the present invention comprises by weight 1% to 10%, preferably 3% to 8% filler and/or pigment, TiO advantageously ₂.

With respect to the weight of compositions, foam compositions according to the present invention comprises by weight 0.5% to 5%, 1% to 3% calcium carbonate preferably.

In order to test the stability of foam, they are effectively vibrated (1000 vibrations), the Δ E a between the color of the main body before vibration and after vibration, and b is less than 10, is preferably less than 5.

According to another embodiment, be oil-in-water (O/W) Emulsion according to color-changing composition of the present invention.

This make-up composition, it is preferably for facial cosmetic BB product or foundation cream, very strong moisturizing sensation is provided, during using, there is quality as the butter of sensation as snug as a bug in a rug and use after completely naturally cosmetic results.After using, all these features contribute to provide the fabulous balance of skin-care effect cognition (as butter and moisturizing) and cosmetic effect (suitable covering and naturally light).Advantageously, can add suitable opacifier.

Said composition mainly comprises water, at least one nonvolatile oil, at least one O/W emulsifying agent and microcapsule.

Be previously described oil at these one or more nonvolatile oils that use preferred embodiment.

Advantageously, O/W Emulsion comprises extender, and this extender allows microcapsule better to expand, thereby makes microcapsule during using, be easier to break.Water, alcohol, glycol, polyhydric alcohol can be used as extender.

Preferably, O/W Emulsion also comprises co-emulsifier and/or solubilizing agent.

Spermol and stearyl alcohol can be called as co-emulsifier.

Can add solubilizing agent, to maintain the performance of O/W Emulsion in the time storing, especially dissolve water component, make and to maintain compositions stable within the shelf-life.Polysorbate20, PEG-60 castor oil hydrogenated can be used as the example of solubilizing agent.

Obtained O/W Emulsion, it has stable capsule fabulous in storage, during using, pigment discharges, and imperceptible any granule.After using, provide perfect and uniform dressing effect.

In addition, O/W Emulsion can comprise at least one following extender: water, such as deionized water, preferably with the concentration of 0 to 90 % by weight, the concentration of 30 % by weight to 70 % by weight more preferably; Alcohol, preferably with the concentration of 0 to 50 % by weight, the concentration of 1 % by weight to 20 % by weight more preferably; Glycol, such as propylene glycol, butanediol, preferably with the concentration of 0 to 50 % by weight, the concentration of 1 % by weight to 15 % by weight more preferably; Polyhydric alcohol, such as glycerol, tetrol, preferably with the concentration of 0 to 50 % by weight, the concentration of 1 % by weight to 10 % by weight more preferably; Co-emulsifier, for example spermol and stearyl alcohol, under the high temperature that is greater than 60 DEG C, preferably with 0 to 20 % by weight, the concentration of 1 % by weight to 5 % by weight more preferably; And solubilizing agent, for example PEG-60 castor oil hydrogenated, with 0 to 10 % by weight, the concentration of 1 % by weight to 5 % by weight more preferably.

In addition, O/W Emulsion can comprise at least two kinds of dissimilar microcapsules, for example three kinds of dissimilar microcapsules.Thereby dressing effect can be modified to natural and honorable appearance, further provide a kind of appearance with the cosmetic with powder in the uniform colour of skin white.

Making after Emulsion, microcapsule, such as Magic60-WP0105 and the Magic50-BW0105 of the Korea Particle Technology from KPT, preferably with 0 to 30 % by weight, the concentration of 0 to 10 % by weight more preferably, in the end in step, introduce by soft stirring, and without side machine scraper.

Can obtain O/W Emulsion, it has pure and clean main body outward appearance, has fabulous stability :-20/20 DEG C (5 cycle), room temperature (25 DEG C, 2 months), 37 DEG C (2 months) and 45 DEG C (2 months).But during using, capsule will discharge pigment, and imperceptible any granule.After using, provide perfect and uniform cosmetic results.

In addition, organically filtering sunlight material can be added in system and extra sun-proof advantage is provided.

Advantageously, O/W Emulsion at least comprises non-inclusive TiO ₂.Non-inclusive TiO ₂allow better coverage effect.

Especially, the compositions of Emulsion form at least comprises non-inclusive TiO ₂and with respect to weight 1% to 30% the microcapsule by weight of compositions.

In whole description, comprise claim, term " comprises one " and should be understood to and " comprising at least one " synonym, except as otherwise noted.

Term " ... and ... between " and " ... extremely ... scope interior " should be understood to include end value, except as otherwise noted.

According to embodiments of the invention, understand in more detail the present invention by described below.Except as otherwise noted, otherwise pointed scale is shown the mass percent of active substance.

Summary of the invention

Therefore, need to provide the make-up composition with the microcapsule that comprises coloring agent, the color that this microcapsule that comprises coloring agent has improvement is oozed out resistance.In this respect, need to comprise the microcapsule of coloring agent, this microcapsule keeps good antidetonation fragility and has the impermeability of improvement.In make-up composition, if dyestuff is not permanently kept, this can damage the long-term visual effect of cosmetics.

Also need to provide make-up composition, it allows the use that is administered to method or the intensity on skin or is changed the microcapsule that comprises different colorant by change, regulates preferred painted or color range pattern.

Also need to provide and utilize large quantities of solvent/components being associated and stable make-up composition.

Also need to provide make-up composition, wherein, according to desired outward appearance, microcapsule is visible or sightless in the main body of compositions.

Also need a kind of make-up composition of the microcapsule that comprises pigment encapsulation, in the time of application, this microcapsule does not cause the uncomfortable sensation of user.

Also need to provide a kind of make-up composition, it has the good pure and fresh sensation that makes user's happiness, but also advantageously has the good shelf-life.

Also need to provide a kind of make-up composition, it can activate the blood circulation of the skin area that this make-up composition is applied, and especially at the skin place of around eyes, thereby has reduced edema due to deficiency and the black eye of eyes belows.

Also need to provide a kind of make-up composition with the microcapsule that comprises coloring agent, it avoids using other the freshener that especially stimulates eyes, such as menthol.

Also need to dissolve the make-up composition such as the effective ingredient of keratolytic agent.

Also need to provide the make-up composition of the microcapsule that comprises pigment encapsulation, in the time of application, this microcapsule rapidly and cracked immediately, produces liquid sensation and makes colored composition not have any granulation outward appearance on skin.Especially,, during using, according to frictional strength, said composition can present different shades or color range.

The microcapsule that also needs to provide pigment encapsulation, its hardness is enough to mix in industrial process, and without replacing.Advantageously, during preparation process, the hardness of microcapsule does not decline significantly.

Therefore, according to an aspect of the present invention, the color-changing composition theming as for keratin material is nursed and/or made up of the present invention, described color-changing composition at least comprises in physiologically acceptable medium:

A) the multiple microcapsules that comprise one or more releasable coloring agent, described microcapsule comprises:

-core, described core comprises a kind of organic material,

-around the coating of at least one deck of described core, the coating of described at least one deck comprises

At least one polymer,

At least one coloring agent,

Advantageously at least one material based on fat,

B) at least one C ₂-C ₈single methanol,

C) and alternatively, with respect to the weight of described compositions, one or more other cosmetic components of 0.1% to 70% by weight, described one or more other cosmetic components are selected from volatile and nonvolatile silicone oil or hydrocarbon ils, surfactant, filler, gelating agent, thickening agent, film former, polymer, antiseptic, silicone elastomer, imitate suntan, other non-inclusive coloring agent, active cosmetic agent, pH adjusting agent, spice, and composition thereof.

Preferably, described microcapsule comprises at least two layers, preferably at least one organic internal layer of different colours and an organic skin.

Preferably, described core comprises at least one the monosaccharide or derivatives thereof as described organic material, is especially advantageously selected from the monosaccharide-polyhydric alcohol of mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, Sorbitol and composition thereof, preferably mannitol.

Preferably, comprise and be selected from least one following hydrophilic polymer around the coating of described at least one deck of described core: polysaccharide and derivant, preferably include a kind of saccharide type or various saccharides type, preferably comprise at least polysaccharide and the derivant of the various saccharides type of D-Glucose unit, especially starch and derivant, cellulose or derivant, more preferably starch and derivant.

Especially, described microcapsule at least comprises:

-by monosaccharide-polyhydric alcohol, inner core that preferably mannitol is made,

At least two layers of-different colours,

-at least one hydrophilic polymer, described at least one hydrophilic polymer is preferably selected from polysaccharide or derivant, is more preferably selected from starch or derivant,

– and advantageously, at least one material based on fat, preferably amphiphilic compound, more preferably phospholipid, even more preferably such as the phosphoryl glycerol of hydrolecithin.

Preferably, the described microcapsule that comprises one or more releasable coloring agent is the multilamellar microcapsule that comprises one or more releasable coloring agent, and described microcapsule comprises:

-be a kind of uncoloured core of organic material, and

-around the laminated coating of described core, described laminated coating comprises at least one organic internal layer different colours and that contain respectively at least one coloring agent and an organic skin.

Preferably, described microcapsule comprises at least one material based on fat, and described at least one material based on fat preferably has amphipathic, for example lecithin, especially hydrolecithin.

Advantageously, with respect to the gross weight of described microcapsule, described core accounts for by weight 1% to 50%, preferably by weight 5% to 30%, especially by weight 10% to 20%.

Advantageously, with respect to described microcapsule, described one or more coloring agent account for 20% to 90%, preferably 30% to 80%, especially 50% to 75% by weight.

Advantageously, described microcapsule is of a size of 50 μ m to 800 μ m, especially 60 μ m to 600 μ m, especially 80 μ m to 500 μ m, 100 μ m to 400 μ m especially.

With respect to the gross weight of described compositions, described compositions can comprise by weight at least 0.1% to 20%, preferably by weight between 0.5% and 15%, especially at the microcapsule between 2% and 10% by weight.

The present invention is also intended to the beauty method for keratin material is nursed and/or made up, comprise by compositions according to the present invention be as defined above administered to described keratin material, especially on skin.

The present invention is also intended to for nursing and/or the beauty method of the keratin material of making up, and comprises compositions according to the present invention is as defined above administered to face or around eyes.

Detailed description of the invention

Term " physiologically acceptable medium " is applied to keratin material, especially skin, the medium of skin of face more specifically for representing to be particularly suitable for by product of the present invention.

" physiologically acceptable medium " comprises according to water used in the present invention.

For purposes of the present invention, term " keratin material " is intended to contain skin, mucosa, for example lip, fingernail and eyelashes.According to the present invention, especially consider skin and lip, especially skin of face.

As presented from the following examples, prove that compositions according to the present invention is favourable in many aspects.

The encapsulation of coloring agent prevents that pigment from during the manufacture of make-up composition and long term storage, less desirable reassociating occurring.

Because microcapsule of the present invention can expand in contact as when the water below limiting or softening, therefore advantageously, in the time being applied on keratin material, they are deformable, therefore provide soft sensation to user.In addition, their small size contributes to not produce any not relaxing or unacceptable granular sensation in the time using.

But, microcapsule of the present invention is enough soft, thereby when carry out very slight friction or extruding on skin time, can break to discharge its content, but they are enough durable, thereby during the manufacture of corresponding color-changing composition, even avoid breakdown of coating at industrial process and between the storage life.

In addition, microcapsule of the present invention allows to prepare compositions of the present invention with conventional equipment, and this is because there is not the painted of equipment during manufacture process.

Therefore, due to microcapsule of the present invention hide packed coloring agent primitive color, strengthen these coloring agent to degradation-resistant stability and prevent from occurring packed coloring agent during manufacture process and long term storage and be discharged in compositions undesirably, therefore microcapsule of the present invention is noticeable especially.

Finally, compositions of the present invention also has the advantage that meets the expectation of consumer aspect cosmetics.

According to a further aspect in the invention, theme of the present invention is also directed to a kind of cosmetic method, and this cosmetic method at least comprises and is to be administered to the surface of keratin material, the lip-deep step of skin especially according at least a portion of compositions of the present invention.

According to the present invention, " color-changing composition " refers to such compositions: wherein, the color before using from use after color different, this difference can be seen by naked eyes.

Especially, this color-changing composition can be relevant with CIE laboratory system 1976 (Δ E use before/after using) the aberration Δ E of value.

Limit Δ E by equation:

Δ E^{*} = \sqrt{({(L_{1} - L_{2})}^{2} + {(a_{1} - a_{2})}^{2} + {(b_{1} - b_{2})}^{2}}

Wherein, L ₁, a ₁, b ₁be the parameter (compositions before using) in the chrominance space of the first color, and L ₂, a ₂, b ₂it is the parameter (being administered to the compositions after homogenization on keratin material and on keratin material) in the chrominance space of the second color.

Can or utilize chromosphere (Chromasphere) (for being administered to the compositions on skin) to measure these values by spectrophotometer.

According to color-changing composition of the present invention can be characterized as being have be greater than 1, be especially more than or equal to 2, be preferably more than or equal before 3 use/use rear Δ E.

painted microcapsule

The term " microcapsule " using in literary composition refers to following so spherical microcapsule: this spherical microcapsule comprises at least coating of one deck, this at least the coating of one deck contain at least one coloring agent and be centered around chemically different from described coating cores.Microcapsule is different from microsphere, and this microsphere is made up of spherical homogenizing substrate.

According to embodiment, " at least coating of one deck " is laminated coating, organic multilayer coating preferably.

Term " multilamellar microcapsule " refers to the microcapsule being made up of the core surrounding based on one or more internal layers and outer field coating.Forming one or more internal layers of laminated coating of multilamellar microcapsule and the single skin of microcapsule can be made up of identical or the different organic compound that forms wall.

Microcapsule according to the present invention comprise by the coating based on one or more layers around the core that is also known as " inner core ".In a preferred embodiment, microcapsule is ' multilamellar ' microcapsule, and it comprises at least one internal layer and a skin.Forming one or more internal layers of laminated coating of multilamellar microcapsule and the single skin of microcapsule can be made up of identical or the different organic compound that forms wall.

In specific embodiment, described internal layer and described skin are made up of the identical organic compound that forms wall, therefore core by one deck coating around.

In one embodiment, skin does not comprise any coloring agent.In another embodiment, skin comprises at least one coloring agent.

The term organic compound of wall " form " refers to organic compound as limited or the combination of two or more different organic compound herein, and it has formed one or more layers composition of microcapsule.In a preferred embodiment, ' form the organic compound of wall ' and comprise at least one polymer.

Term " coloring agent " refers to: organic pigment, such as being selected from well-known FD & C or any synthetic dyestuff of D & C dyestuff or natural dyestuff; Inorganic pigment, such as metal-oxide or color lake and any combination (blend) thereof.Therefore, oil-soluble or oil-dispersing property according to available coloring agent of the present invention or in water, there is limited solubility.

In a preferred embodiment, coloring agent is inorganic pigment, metal-oxide more preferably.

Conventionally,, according to the present invention, use the mean diameter up to approximately 800 μ m at the diametrically of coloring agent microcapsule.Preferably, for skin protection application, in the diameter of coloring agent microcapsule, mean diameter is less than approximately 400 μ m.Advantageously, in diameter, mean diameter is in the scope of approximately 10 μ m to 350 μ m.Preferably, in diameter, mean diameter will be 50 μ m to 800 μ m, especially 60 μ m to 600 μ m, especially 80 μ m to 500 μ m, 100 μ m to 400 μ m especially.

Especially, according to measuring by filler test method or by microscopic examination, mean diameter can be 50 order to 1000 orders (approximately 400 μ m to 10 μ m), especially 60 order to 200 orders (approximately 250 μ m to 75 μ m).

Preferably, with respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions can comprise by weight 0.1% to 20%, 0.5% to 15% microcapsule by weight preferably.

Especially for skin care compositions according to the present invention, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, the amount of microcapsule is 0.1% to 5%, preferably 0.2% to 3% by weight.

Especially for make-up composition according to the present invention, with respect to the gross weight of compositions, the amount of microcapsule is 0.5% to 20%, preferably 1% to 15%, more preferably 2% to 10% by weight.

According to specific embodiment, packed coloring agent is in the active substance of encapsulated pigments, can with according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention by weight 0.5% to 20%, especially by weight 1% to 15%, more specifically 2% to 12% amount is present in described compositions by weight.

Microcapsule is incorporated in cosmetic formulations in the final stage of preparation and after filtration stage (if having filtration stage) common, avoids microcapsule to break.Preferably, at the temperature of 50 DEG C, add and evenly mix according to microcapsule of the present invention.Utilize stirring paddle instead of homogenizer leniently to mix microcapsule.

Microcapsule can be manufactured by those skilled in the art's known multiple methods (comprising balling-up, granulation, coating etc.) in coating or encapsulation field.For example, microcapsule can be obtained or be comprised that by disclosed in FR2841155 granulation and the dry method applying of spraying obtain or obtain for the fluidization that applies and encapsulate component by being used in for a long time food and pharmaceutical industry by the disclosed method that comprises mixing cpd (activating agent, pigment, polymer, solvent) and be dried to form capsule in WO01/35933 and WO2011/027960.For example in WO2008/139053, mention, WO2008/139053 relates to the spherical multilamellar capsule that preparation comprises the concentric layer of sugared core and pharmaceutically active agents.Realize pharmaceutically active agents fixing on core by dipping, pulverizing or injection, then dry ground floor before applying the second layer.

For example, at the disclosed fluidized-bed process such as Teunou (Fluid-Bed Coating, Poncelet, 2005, D.Food Science and Technology (Boca Raton, FL, United States), the 146th volume, Issue Encapsulated and Powdered Foods, 197-212 page).The specific characteristic of fluidized-bed process is, compared with spraying dry (it causes that substrate and core material are optionally dispersed in polymer), it causes that core is by the coated particle of fine encapsulation.

In a preferred embodiment, obtain microcapsule by fluidized-bed process.

According to this embodiment, preferably obtain at least one layer of microcapsule by fluidized-bed process.

In specific embodiment, obtain skin by fluidized-bed process.

In another specific embodiment, obtain at least one internal layer by fluidized-bed process.

Most preferably, obtain whole layers by fluidized-bed process.

Those skilled in the art will know that how to regulate allows regeneration to produce according to the air capacity of capsule of the present invention, amount of liquid and temperature.

Preferably, comprise W ü rster method and/or tangential spray method according to fluidized-bed process of the invention process.Contrary with pelletization method, this technique allows the spherical capsule of preparation, wherein, core by one or more peripheral layers institute around.

When implementing by fluidized-bed process for the manufacture of when according to the whole technique of the layer of the core of microcapsule of the present invention, microcapsule layer advantageously rule, concentric and present uniform thickness.

In the following description, by the different embodiment that provide according to the preparation of capsule of the present invention.

ia) core

Core is at least made up of organic material.500nm to 150 μ m is counted with diameter in the gravel size decision ground of described core.

Preferably, described core is at room temperature solid form and/or crystal form.

In specific embodiment, organic material is selected from the organic material that water solublity is high.Preferably, core is water miscible or water dispersible.

In specific embodiment, core is uncoloured, that is, core does not comprise colorant materials.

In specific embodiment, core is only based on a kind of compound.This compound is to be organically and more preferably natural compound.

According to preferred embodiment, core is sugared-ol, is preferably monosaccharide-polyhydric alcohol, and described monosaccharide-polyhydric alcohol is advantageously selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, Sorbitol.

In specific embodiment, core is made up of mannitol, is more preferably only made up of mannitol.

According to the embodiment of alternative, core at least comprises mannitol and at least one other composition, and this other composition is preferably the polymer that is selected from hydrophilic polymer.Particularly, this core can comprise mannitol and be selected from cellulosic polymer, starch polymer and composition thereof, the hydrophilic polymer of its mixture preferably.

In a preferred embodiment, cellulosic polymer is carboxymethyl cellulose, and starch polymer is unmodified native starch, for example corn starch.

Core can be made up of the crystal seed of a kind of material in above-mentioned material (seed) (or crystal).

With respect to the gross weight of microcapsule, comprise preferably taking by weight as 1% to 50%, the core of 4% to 40%, especially by weight 5% to 30% and especially by weight 10% to 20% amount by weight preferably.

With respect to the gross weight of core, preferably include be by weight 2% to 100%, the mannitol of 5% to 100%, especially by weight 100% amount by weight preferably.

With respect to the gross weight of microcapsule, preferably include be by weight 1% to 50%, the mannitol of 4% to 40%, especially by weight 5% to 30% and especially by weight 10% to 20% amount by weight preferably.

ib) exterior layer or coating

As front disclosed, core advantageously coated or exterior layer surrounds, and this exterior layer preferably comprises at least one internal layer and a skin.Under this latter instance, these layers preferably extend with one heart with respect to core.

A layer or multiple layer are preferably organic, comprise at least one organic compound that forms material as wall.Preferably, internal layer and/or skin comprise at least one polymer, especially hydrophilic polymer.

polymer

Compositions according to the present invention comprises one or more polymer.In specific embodiment, polymer is hydrophilic polymer.

This hydrophilic polymer solubilized or dispersible in water or alcoholic compound, be especially selected from the alcoholic compound of lower alcohol, glycol, polyhydric alcohol.

For the object of present patent application, term " hydrophilic polymer " refers to form (being total to) polymer of hydrogen bond with water or alcoholic compound, the alcoholic compound that is especially selected from lower alcohol, glycol, polyhydric alcohol.Especially, concern can form the polymer of O-H, N-H and S-H key.

According to specific embodiment of the present invention, when hydrophilic polymer and water or alcoholic compound, the alcoholic compound that is especially selected from lower alcohol, glycol, polyhydric alcohol contact, inflatable or softening.

Hydrophilic polymer can be selected from following polymer:

The homopolymer of-acrylic or methacrylic acid or copolymer or its salt and ester, especially: the product of being sold with title Versicol F or Versicol K by Allied Colloid company; The product of being sold with title Ultrahold 8 by Ciba-Geigy company; And the polyacrylic acid of Synthalen K type; With polyacrylic salt, especially sodium salt (corresponding to INCI title sodium acrylate copolymer), more particularly company with title Luvigel EM sell crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (corresponding to INCI title sodium acrylate copolymer (with) caprylic/capric triglyceride);

The sodium salt of-the sodium polymethacrylate of selling with title Darvan No.7 with the acrylic acid of its sodium-salt form and the copolymer of acrylamide, by Vanderbilt company of being sold with title Reten by Hercules company and the polyhydroxycarboxyliacid acid of being sold with title Hydagen F by Henkel company;

-polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymer, preferably modification or unmodified carboxyl ethylene polymer; Particularly preferred copolymer according to the present invention is acrylate/C ₁₀-C ₃₀-alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI title: acrylate/C ₁₀-C ₃₀alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer), the product of for example being sold with trade name Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, carbopol 1382 and carbopol ETD 2020 by Lubrizol company, even preferred Pemulen TR-2;

-alkyl acrylic/alkyl methyl acrylic copolymer and derivant thereof, particularly its salt and ester, the copolymer of the methacrylate with quaternary ammonium group of ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and the low content for example providing from the commodity EUDRAGIT RSPO by name of Evonik Degussa;

-the AMPS (utilize ammonia part neutralization and highly cross-linked polyacrylamide base methyl propane sulfonic acid) that sold by Clariant company;

-AMPS/ acrylamide copolymer, the product Sepigel or the Simulgel that are for example sold by SEPPIC company, especially INCI title polyacrylamide (with) isoparaffin of C13-14 (with) copolymer of laureth-7;

The type of the AMPS/ alkyl methacrylate copolymer of-polyoxyethylene (crosslinked or noncrosslinking), as the Aristoflex HMS being sold by Clariant company;

-polysaccharide and derivant, for example:

-anion, cationic, both sexes or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymer;

-cellulosic polymer and derivant, preferably, except alkylcellulose, be selected from hydroxyethyl-cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxy methocel, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose and quaternised cellulose derivative; In a preferred embodiment, cellulosic polymer is carboxymethyl cellulose;

Starch polymer and the derivant of-final modification; In a preferred embodiment, starch polymer is native starch;

The polymer of the modification alternatively of-natural origin, for example galactomannan and derivant thereof, as Konjac glucomannan, gellan gum, tracasol, fenugreek gum, Indian tragacanth, Tragacanth, arabic gum, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, utilize the group modified hydroxypropyl guar gum of methyl carboxylic acids sodium (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and xanthan derivatives;

-alginate and carrageenin;

-glycosaminoglycan, hyaluronic acid and derivant thereof;

-mucopolysaccharide, for example hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, and composition thereof;

-polyvinyl, for example copolymer of the copolymer of the copolymer of the copolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone, methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, vinylacetate and .beta.-methylacrylic acid, vinyl pyrrolidone and vinylacetate, vinyl pyrrolidone and caprolactam, polyvinyl alcohol;

And composition thereof.

Preferably, comprise hydrophilic polymer according to compositions of the present invention, especially exterior layer, hydrophilic polymer be selected from the homopolymer of polysaccharide and derivant, acrylic or methacrylic acid or copolymer or its salt and ester, and composition thereof.

Described polymer is advantageously selected from (gathering) (alkyl) (methyl) acrylic acid and derivant thereof, especially (gather) (alkyl) (methyl) acrylate and derivant thereof, preferably be selected from alkyl acrylic/alkyl methyl acrylic copolymer and derivant thereof, and be most preferably the copolymer of the methacrylate with quaternary ammonium group of the ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and the low content that provide from the commodity of Evonik Degussa EUDRAGIT RSPO by name.

Described polysaccharide and its derivant be preferably selected from chitosan polymer, chitin polymer, cellulosic polymer, starch polymer, galactomannan, alginate, carrageenin, mucopolysaccharide and derivant thereof, and composition thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, exterior layer does not have microcrystalline Cellulose.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, described polysaccharide and derivant thereof be preferably selected from comprise a kind of saccharide type or various saccharides type, preferably various saccharides type, especially at least as polysaccharide and the derivant thereof of sugared D-Glucose unit, preferred starch polymer, cellulosic polymer and derivant thereof, and composition thereof.

According to preferred embodiment, microcapsule comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer, and this hydrophilic polymer is selected from: starch and derivant thereof, especially corn starch; Cellulose and derivant thereof; Copolymer and the derivant thereof of the homopolymer of methacrylic acid and/or methacrylate and/or copolymer or (alkyl) acrylic acid and/or (alkyl) methacrylic acid, preferably its salt and ester; Especially, microcapsule comprises polymethyl methacrylate.

The starch that can use according to the present invention is produced by material of vegetable origin (such as Oryza sativa L., Semen sojae atricolor, Rhizoma Solani tuber osi or Semen Maydis) conventionally.The starch of unmodified or (with the cellulose family ratio) modification of starch.In a preferred embodiment, starch is unmodified.

The preferred homopolymer of methacrylic acid and/or methacrylate and/or copolymer are such homopolymer and/or copolymer: wherein, the copolymer of methyl methacrylate and ethyl acrylate has the molecular weight from 750kDa to 850kDa.

For example, cellulose derivative comprises alkali cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), cellulose esters and cellulose ether and aminocellulose.In specific embodiment, cellulose is carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC).

According to preferred embodiment, microcapsule at least comprises copolymer and derivant (preferably its salt and ester) and/or the cellulose derivative of starch derivatives (especially corn starch), polymethyl methacrylate, (alkyl) acrylic acid and/or (alkyl) methacrylic acid.

Preferably, microcapsule comprises not crosslinked polymer.

Polymer can be in a layer or multiple layer.

In another embodiment, polymer can be in core.

Microcapsule can comprise the polymer in polymer and/or the layer in core.

In specific embodiment, polymer is in core and layer.

In embodiment, core at least comprises as the starch of polymer and/or cellulose derivative.In the time that starch is included in core, it represents the key component of this core, that is, the weight of starch is greater than the amount separately of other compositions of core.

What polymer can account for microcapsule by weight 0.5% to 20%, especially by weight 1% to 10%, preferably accounts for by weight 2% to 8% of microcapsule.

Form the polymer that the different layers of coating can be based on identical or different.Advantageously, different layers can be made up of same polymer.

On the contrary, advantageously different colours of layer.

Can, by using different coloring agent to obtain this different color, in the time that the coloring agent for two layers is identical, can obtain this different color by different concentration by least one coloring agent.

In specific embodiment, skin comprises at least one coloring agent.

In another embodiment, skin does not comprise any coloring agent.

coloring agent

As previously mentioned, " coloring agent " comprises that CTFA (cosmetics association of the U.S.) and FDA (food and FAD) for make-up preparation ratify any organic or inorganic pigment or the coloring agent for cosmetics.

Therefore, term " coloring agent " refers to: organic pigment, as be selected from synthetic dyestuffs or the natural dye of any dyestuff in known FD & C or D & C dyestuff; Inorganic pigment, as metal-oxide or color lake, as the color lake based on alkermes, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum and combination in any (blend) thereof.This coloring agent is below being described in detail.

In specific embodiment, coloring agent is water miscible or water dispersible.

In another embodiment, according to the present invention, spendable coloring agent is oil-soluble or oil-dispersing property or in water, have a limited dissolubility.

In a preferred embodiment, coloring agent is inorganic pigment, more preferably metal-oxide.

Advantageously, the coloring agent of multilamellar microcapsule is the native metal oxide of chosen from Fe oxide, titanium dioxide, aluminum oxide, Zirconium oxide, cobalt/cobalt oxide, cerium oxide, nickel oxide, tin-oxide or zinc oxide or composite oxides, more preferably for being selected from the iron oxides of red ferric oxide, yellow ferric oxide or Black Rouge or its mixture.

One or more layers also can comprise corresponding to the color lake that is fixed to the toner on substrate.One or more color lakes so are advantageously selected from material and one or more mixture thereof below:

-alkermes;

The organic pigment of-azo colouring agent, anthraquinone colorant, indigo coloring agent, xanthene coloring agent, pyrene coloring agent, quinoline coloring agent, triphenylmethane coloring agents, fluorane coloring agent, in the middle of these organic pigments, can mention the pigment known with following goods number: blue No. 4 of D & C, brown No. 1 of D & C, green No. 5 of D & C, green No. 6 of D & C, orange No. 4 of D & C, orange No. 5 of D & C, orange No. 10 of D & C, orange No. 11 of D & C, red No. 6 of D & C, red No. 7 of D & C, red No. 17 of D & C, red No. 21 of D & C, red No. 22 of D & C, red No. 27 of D & C, red No. 28 of D & C, red No. 30 of D & C, red No. 31 of D & C, red No. 33 of D & C, red No. 34 of D & C, red No. 36 of D & C, No. 2, D & C purple, yellow No. 7 of D & C, yellow No. 8 of D & C, yellow No. 10 of D & C, yellow No. 11 of D & C, blue No. 1 of FD & C, green No. 3 of FD & C, red No. 40 of FD & C, FD & C Sunset Yellow FCF, yellow No. 6 of FD & C,

The water-insoluble salt of the sodium of-acid stain, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, for example, azo colouring agent, anthraquinone colorant, indigo coloring agent, xanthene coloring agent, pyrene coloring agent, quinoline coloring agent, triphenylmethane coloring agents, fluorane coloring agent, these coloring agent can comprise at least one carboxylic acid group or sulfonic group.

Organic color lake also can be protected by organic carrier (such as Colophonium or aluminum benzoate).

In the middle of organic color lake, can especially mention those organic color lakes of being learnt with following title: D & C Amaranth aluminum color forms sediment, the red No. 3 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 4 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 6 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 6 barium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 6 barium/strontium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 6 strontium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 6 potassium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 6 sodium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 7 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 7 barium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 7 calcium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 7 calcium/strontium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 7 zirconium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 8 sodium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 9 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 9 barium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 9 barium/strontium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 9 zirconium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 10 sodium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 19 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 19 barium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 19 zirconium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 21 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 21 zirconium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 22 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 27 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 27 aluminum/titanium/zirconium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 27 barium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 27 calcium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 27 zirconium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 28 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 28 sodium colors of D & C form sediment, red No. 30 colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 31 calcium colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 33 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 34 calcium colors of D & C form sediment, red No. 36 colors of D & C form sediment, the red No. 40 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the blue No. 1 aluminum color of D & C forms sediment, the green No. 3 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the orange No. 4 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the orange No. 5 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the orange No. 5 zirconium colors of D & C form sediment, the orange No. 10 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the orange No. 17 barium colors of D & C form sediment, D & C Sunset Yellow FCF aluminum color forms sediment, D & C Sunset Yellow FCF zirconium color forms sediment, the yellow No. 6 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the yellow No. 7 zirconium colors of D & C form sediment, the yellow No. 10 aluminum colors of D & C form sediment, the blue No. 1 aluminum color of FD & C forms sediment, the red No. 4 aluminum colors of FD & C form sediment, the red No. 40 aluminum colors of FD & C form sediment, FD & C Sunset Yellow FCF aluminum color forms sediment, the yellow No. 6 aluminum color lakes of FD & C.

Corresponding to the chemical material of each toner in previous these mentioned toners by " The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association " to mention in the book that is called " International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionnary and Handbook " (version 1997, the 371st to 386 pages and the 524th to 528 pages) published, the content of this book is incorporated in description of the present invention by reference.

According to preferred embodiment, color lake is selected from: alkermes; Water-insoluble salt with the sodium of acid stain, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, for example, azo colouring agent, anthraquinone colorant, indigo coloring agent, xanthene coloring agent, pyrene coloring agent, quinoline coloring agent, triphenyl methane coloring agent, fluorane coloring agent (considering that these coloring agent can comprise at least one carboxylic acid group or sulfonic group); And composition thereof.

According to preferred embodiment, color lake is selected from: alkermes, and the water-insoluble salt of sodium, calcium, aluminum, and composition thereof.

As the color lake that comprises carmine, can mention goods number: CARMIN COVALAC W 3508, CLOISONNERED 424C and CHROMA-LITE MAGENTA CL4505.

Water-insoluble aluminum salt be preferably selected from the blue No. 1 aluminum color lake in FDC Sunset Yellow FCF aluminum color lake, le FDC, the red No. 40 aluminum color lakes of le FDC, the red No. 30 aluminum color lakes of le FDC, the green No. 5 aluminum color lakes of le FDC, and composition thereof.As the compound that comprises so inorganic color lake, can especially mention goods number: INTENZA FIREFLY C91-1211, INTENZA AZURE ALLURE C91-1251, INTENZA THINK PINK C91-1236.

Preferably, water-insoluble calcium salt is selected from red No. 7 calcium color lakes.As the compound that comprises this inorganic color lake, can especially mention goods number: INTENZA MAGENTITUDE C91-1234, INTENZA HAUTE PINK C91-1232, INTENZA RAZZLED ROSE C91-1231, INTENZA AMETHYST FORCE C91-7231, INTENZA PLUSH PLUM C91-7441, INTENZA ELECTRIC CORAL C91-1233, FLORASOMES-JOJOBA-SMS-10%CELLINI RED-NATURAL and composition thereof.

Preferably, water-insoluble sodium salt be selected from red No. 6 sodium color lakes and red No. 28 sodium color lakes, and composition thereof.As the compound that comprises this inorganic color lake, can especially mention goods number: INTENZA MANGO TANGO C91-1221 and INTENZA NITRO PINK C91-1235.

In a preferred embodiment, coloring agent is inorganic colourant.

In a preferred embodiment, coloring agent is metal-oxide.This metal-oxide preferably chosen from Fe oxide, titanium oxide, and composition thereof.

Color-changing composition of the present invention can comprise the mixture of two or more coloring agent, and coloring agent is encapsulated in microcapsule individually and/or one or more mixture of coloring agent are encapsulated in multilamellar microcapsule.

According to this specific embodiment, each of microcapsule layer can comprise the specific blends of at least one specific coloring agent or coloring agent.

According to this specific embodiment, color-changing composition of the present invention comprises two or more the microcapsule of the present invention with different colours.

Those skilled in the art will know that the combination of How to choose coloring agent and coloring agent, to produce required colour effect or change color.

As discussed previously, microcapsule of the present invention preferably at least comprises titanium dioxide and/or iron oxides, titanium dioxide at least preferably in its coating.

In a preferred embodiment, microcapsule of the present invention preferably at least comprises titanium dioxide and iron oxides in its coating.

According to specific embodiment, the skin of described microcapsule comprises titanium dioxide and more preferably as unique coloring agent.

According to these specific embodiments, the skin of described microcapsule comprises the titanium dioxide as unique coloring agent, and compositions according to the present invention is non-staining, and " non-staining " or " uncoloured " compositions refers to compositions transparent or white.

According to preferred embodiment, compositions according to the present invention comprises uncoloured microcapsule, that is, skin is white or transparent, and when skin is while being transparent, visual internal layer is white.

For purposes of the present invention, term " transparent compositions " is instigated at least 40% transmission of light of wavelength 750nm and the compositions to its scattering not, and wherein scattering of light angle is less than 5 °, the compositions of approximately 0 ° better.

At least 50%, especially at least 60%, especially at least 70% of the light of transparent compositions transmissive wavelength 750nm.

According to following scheme, utilization scans UV-visible spectrophotometer from the Cary 300 of Varian company and carries out transmission measurement:

-compositions is poured in the square spectrophotometer sample cell of length of side 10mm;

-then, and at 20 DEG C, thermostatically controlled indoor, the sample of maintenance compositions 24 hours;

-then, on spectrophotometer, by the wavelength of scanning 700nm to 800nm, measure the light of the sample that sees through compositions, carry out this measurement with transmission mode;

-then, determine the percentage ratio that sees through the light of the sample of compositions with the wavelength of 750nm.

Transparent compositions, when they are placed with at a distance of 0.01m and during in the face of the thick black line of the diameter 2mm that draws on a blank sheet of paper, allow this line in sight; On the contrary, opaque compositions, i.e. nontransparent compositions, does not allow this line in sight.

According to specific embodiment, the skin of described microcapsule comprises organic pigment or iron oxides.

With respect to the gross weight of microcapsule, coloring agent is with by weight 20% to 90%, preferably by weight 30% to 80%, more preferably 50% to 75% amount exists by weight.

In specific embodiment, microcapsule comprise chosen from Fe oxide, titanium oxide, and composition thereof metal-oxide, with respect to the gross weight of described microcapsule, metal-oxide is with by weight 20% to 90%, preferably by weight 30% to 85%, more preferably 50% to 85% amount exists by weight.

Especially,, with respect to the gross weight of described microcapsule, titanium oxide can be with by weight 28% to 80%, preferably by weight 30% to 75%, more preferably 30% to 50% exist by weight.

Especially,, with respect to the gross weight of described microcapsule, iron oxides can be with by weight 5% to 75%, preferably 8% to 65% exist by weight.In specific embodiment, with respect to the gross weight of described microcapsule, iron oxides with by weight higher than 15%, preferably by weight higher than 30%, 40% to 65% amount exists especially by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, at least one layer, preferably, in each layer, coloring agent is main component, account for layer by weight at least 40%, preferably account for layer by weight at least 75%, more preferably account for by weight at least 95% of layer.

In a preferred embodiment, the average thickness of titanium dioxide layer is 5 μ m to 150 μ m.

based on the material of fat

Internal layer and/or outer at least one material based on fat that also can advantageously comprise.

According to specific embodiment of the present invention, this material based on fat can have the performance of amphiphilic, has nonpolar part and polar portion.

This material based on fat can comprise at least one or more C ₁₂-C ₂₂fatty acid chain, for example, be selected from fatty acid chain of stearic acid, Palmic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid etc. and composition thereof.Preferably, these fatty acid chains are hydrogenated.Finally, these fatty acid chains can be the nonpolar parts of the material based on fat.

This material based on fat is preferably selected from phospholipid.These phospholipid are preferably selected from phosphoryl glycerol (phosphoacylglycerol), are more preferably selected from lecithin, especially hydrolecithin.

What the material based on fat can account for microcapsule by weight 0.05% to 5%, especially accounts for by weight 0.1% to 1% of microcapsule.

For example, by combine more than three kinds compound (: sugar alcohol, polymer, material based on fat) in different hardness and/or water miscible microcapsule, can regulate the microcapsule of coloring agent encapsulation on skin, to break the required time, make to be applied to method or the intensity on skin by change, can regulate preferred colored pattern or color range pattern.

Therefore,, according to preferred embodiment, laminated coating at least comprises as the starch of polymer and at least one material based on fat, the described material preferably lecithin based on fat.

According to favourable embodiment, microcapsule according to the present invention comprises at least one monosaccharide or derivatives thereof and at least one polysaccharide or derivatives thereof.

According to preferred embodiment, microcapsule comprises the core that comprises monosaccharide derivatives and the coating that comprises polysaccharide (or derivatives thereof), and this polysaccharide comprises sugared or polytype sugar of one type, preferred polytype sugar.

According to preferred embodiment, microcapsule comprises: the core that comprises monosaccharide polyhydric alcohol (being preferably selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, Sorbitol); And coating, described coating comprises the polysaccharide (or derivatives thereof) comprising as at least one or more D-Glucose unit of sugar.

According to preferred embodiment, microcapsule is included in different layers three kinds or coloring agent more than three kinds.

According to preferred embodiment, microcapsule additionally comprises the material based on fat, and the described material based on fat is selected from phospholipid, is advantageously selected from phosphoryl glycerol, is especially selected from lecithin.

In specific embodiment, core comprises mannitol, starch polymer and cellulose derivative and the optional material based on fat.In this case, starch polymer is main component, that is, the weight number of starch is greater than the number of weight separately of mannitol, cellulose derivative and the material based on fat of core.

With reference to Fig. 1, according to preferred embodiment, the present invention advantageously provides a kind of variable color microcapsule, and its size is counted 50 μ m to 800 μ m, 60 μ m to 500 μ m preferably with the diameter of microcapsule, comprising:

I) core (A), preferably size is counted 500nm to 150 μ m with diameter, preferably not containing any coloring agent, comprise at least one organic core, described organic core is preferably selected from least one sugar alcohol, preferred monosaccharide-polyhydric alcohol, is advantageously selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, Sorbitol and composition thereof;

Ii) around a ground floor (B) of described core, comprising:

-at least one coloring agent, preferably one or more iron oxides, and

-be selected from least one polymer, at least one material based on fat and composition thereof, be preferably selected from the binding agent of its mixture;

Iii) around a second layer (C) of described ground floor (B), preferably there is the thickness of 5 μ m to 500 μ m, comprising:

-titanium dioxide granule, and

Iv) optional, around one the 3rd layer (D) of the described second layer (C), comprising:

-at least one coloring agent, and

V) optional, around described the 3rd layer (D) (if having the 3rd layer) or around the 4th layer (E) of the described second layer (C), comprising:

The polymer of-at least one formation wall, is preferably selected from: polysaccharide, as cellulose derivative, especially cellulose ether and cellulose esters; (gathering) (alkyl) (methyl) acrylic acid and derivant thereof, especially (gather) (alkyl) (methyl) acrylate and derivant thereof; And preferably alkyl acrylic/alkyl methyl acrylic copolymer and derivant thereof.

As the example of the commercial microcapsule for compositions of the present invention of buying, can relate to the microcapsule of being produced with following trade name by Korea Particle Technology KPT:

-from the Magic 60-WP0105 of KPT: the spherical microcapsule of pink colour that comprises titanium dioxide, mannitol, hydrolecithin, synthetic fluorophologopite, red 30 color lakes, corn starch, tin-oxide with 60-200 order particle diameter;

-from the Magic50-BW0105 of KPT: have 60-200 order particle diameter comprise mannitol, ferrum oxidation is red, ferrum oxidation is yellow, ferrum oxidation is black, the spherical microcapsule of light gray of hydrolecithin, titanium dioxide, corn starch.

In compositions according to the present invention, be applicable to microcapsule of the present invention and preferably at high temperature, be for example more than or equal at the temperature of 40 DEG C to be stable, for example, in the baking oven of 45 DEG C, can to stablize 1 month, two months better, three months better; Or in the baking oven of 60 DEG C, can stablize 15 days.

In a preferred embodiment, microcapsule according to the present invention presents suitable softening kinetics.

Preferably, after contacting with other compounds in formula, at least three hours time, the hardness of microcapsule is advantageously 5 grams to 50 grams, more preferably 6 grams to 20 grams, more preferably 7 grams to 10 grams.This hardness is with consistent for the preparation of the commercial run of make-up composition that comprises this microcapsule.

Such value of softening kinetics and hardness allows not only to provide aesthetic microcapsule but also overall aesthetic compositions is provided.

Especially, compositions can cause different light and shades or color range according to the intensity of friction.Compositions can advantageously present the high chrominance C * measuring in CIE laboratory system 1976.

water

c ₂ -C ₈ single methanol or lower alcohol

Be suitable for use in the C in the present invention ₂-C ₈single methanol or lower alcohol can be straight chain, side chain or ring-type, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, only carry the compound of one-OH functional group.

Advantageously, C ₂-C ₈single methanol be acyclic single methanol, preferably they are C ₂-C ₅single methanol, preferred C ₂-C ₃single methanol.

Advantageously being suitable for preparation is to comprise 2 to 8 carbon atoms, the rudimentary single methanol of 2 to 5 carbon atoms more preferably according to the rudimentary single methanol of compositions of the present invention, such as ethanol, propanol, butanols, isopropyl alcohol, isobutanol, preferred alcohol and/or isopropyl alcohol, more preferably ethanol at least.

With respect to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions can comprise by weight at least 1%, preferably at least 2%, more preferably 2% to 15%, advantageously by weight 3% to 10%, preferably by weight 3% to 8%, preferred one or more single methanols of 4% to 6% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, with respect to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, described compositions comprises that by weight total concentration is 2% to 15%, more preferably 3% to 10% ethanol and/or isopropyl alcohol by weight, more preferably ethanol at least.

In the cosmetic of keratin material and/or the field of nursing, use that can be favourable in many ways such as the rudimentary single methanol of ethanol.

This compound is particularly useful for, in the time that user is administered on skin by compositions of the present invention, providing pure and fresh sensation to user.

In addition, this user that makes feels that joyful pure and fresh sensation also can advantageously activate the blood circulation in the skin of feeling pure and fresh, especially around the blood circulation in the skin in the particularly preferred blood supply of the formation region of eyes.Therefore, follow these rudimentary single methanols use pure and freshly feel to alleviate the edema and the black eye that occur in this facial parts that cause due to the high vascularity in this facial parts and thinness.

The application of rudimentary single methanol also can advantageously be avoided applying other fresheners around eyes, for example methanol, terpane formyl ethamine, menthyl lactate, the Meng oxygen base propylene glycol, described freshener normally stimulates the raw material of eyes.

Also need to have the arbitrarily used compositions of the variable color microcapsule being included in the Physiological Medium that comprises lower alcohol, reason is that some cosmetic components are soluble especially in water alcohol medium.

In addition, rudimentary single methanol (such as ethanol) allows lytic activity agent, especially keratolytic agent, for example salicylic acid and derivant thereof.

Embodiment

i microcapsule

Different embodiment according to the preparation of microcapsule of the present invention are described hereinafter, so that the present invention to be described.

example 1: there is the preparation of the microcapsule of inner brown coating and outside white coating

Mannitol (spray-dired mannitol: Pearitol 100SD) is as core.

The hydrolecithin (lipoid S100-3) of the ceramide of 120.0g (ceramide PC 104) and 120.0g is joined in the mixed solution of the dichloromethane of 1600.0g and the ethanol of 1600.0g, at 40 DEG C, dissolve completely.The iron oxide black of the iron oxide red of the iron oxide yellow of 1260.0g, 252.0g and 45.36g is joined in obtained mixture, utilize homogenizer fully to disperse, to prepare internal color coating solution.

The mannitol of 347.70g is introduced to fluidized bed coating process system (Glatt GPOG 1, end spray), as seed, then stand to apply internal color coating solution with the feed rate of 500ml/h, to obtain having the granule of the mannitol core that is coated with internal color layer.

After this, the hydrolecithin of the ceramide of 36.0g and 36.0g is joined in the mixed solution of the dichloromethane of 720.0g and the ethanol of 720.0g, at 40 DEG C, dissolve.The titanium dioxide granule of 600.0g is joined in obtained mixture, utilize homogenizer fully to disperse, to prepare titanium dioxide granule coating solution.

Utilize the coating of the titanium dioxide granule coating solution obtaining to realize by fluidized-bed process, to obtain having the granule of the internal color layer that is coated with titanium dioxide granule layer.

Then, the lacca of 300.0g is dissolved in the ethanol of 3000g, to prepare outer coating solution, outer coating solution is applied on titanium dioxide granule layer above to obtain having the variable color microcapsule that is coated with outer field titanium dioxide granule layer.

example 2: there is the preparation of the microcapsule of inner yellow coating and outside white coating

Except prepare in internal color coating solution, use the iron oxide yellow of 1557.36g substitute mixed colorant that iron oxide yellow, iron oxide red and iron oxide black form as internal color, prepare in the same manner as in Example 1 microcapsule.

example 3: there is the preparation of the microcapsule of inner red coatings and outside white coating

Except prepare in internal color coating solution, use the iron oxide red of 1557.36g substitute mixed colorant that iron oxide yellow, iron oxide red and iron oxide black form as internal color, prepare in the same manner as in Example 1 microcapsule.

example 4: there is the preparation of the microcapsule of inner black coating and outside white coating

Except prepare in internal color coating solution, use the iron oxide black of 1557.36g substitute mixed colorant that iron oxide yellow, iron oxide red and iron oxide black form as internal color, prepare in the same manner as in Example 1 microcapsule.

example 5: there is the preparation of the microcapsule of inner black coating and outside green coating

Repeat and process identical in example 4, until form the step of titanium dioxide granule layer.

After this, the hydrolecithin of the ceramide of 20.0g and 20.0g is joined in the mixed solution of the dichloromethane of 400.0g and the ethanol of 400.0g, at 40 DEG C, dissolve.The chromium hydroxide green of 40.0g (CI77289) is joined in obtained reactant mixture, utilize homogenizer fully to disperse, to prepare green coating solution.

With the feed rate of the coating solution of 500ml/h, realize the coating that utilizes the green coating solution obtaining by fluidized-bed process, to obtain the granule of the titanium dioxide granule layer with the green layer of being coated with.

Then, the polymethacrylates of 200.0g (Eudragit RSPO) is dissolved in the ethanol of 4000g, to prepare outer coating solution.With the feed rate of the coating solution of 100ml/h, realize the coating that utilizes the outer coating solution obtaining by fluidized-bed process, to obtain having the variable color microcapsule of the green layer that is coated with polymeric outer layer.

example 6:

By component and content described in use following table, prepare and there is as shown in Figure 2 core and two-layer variable color microcapsule by fluidized-bed process:

(1) hybrid pigment (internal color): Huang: red: black=55.18:34.48:10.34

(2) component: core seed-internal color layer-TiO ₂granular layer

Percentage ratio represents the percentage by weight with respect to total microcapsule weight.

example 7:

By using component and the content described in following table, prepare the variable color microcapsule as shown in Figure 3 with core and three layers by fluidized-bed process:

(1) hybrid pigment (internal color): Huang: red: black=60.4:23.8:11.4:4.4

(2) component: core seed-internal color layer-TiO ₂granular layer-exterior color layer

example 8:

By using component and the content described in following table, by fluidized-bed process prepare as shown in FIG. 4 there is core and two-layer variable color microcapsule:

(1) hybrid pigment (internal color): Huang: red: black=60.1:28.8:11.1

(2) component: core seed-internal color layer-TiO ₂granular layer

example 9:

By using component and the content described in following table, by fluidized-bed process prepare as shown in FIG. 5 there is core and two-layer variable color microcapsule:

(1) component: core seed-internal color layer-TiO ₂granular layer

example 10:

By using component and the content described in following table, prepare the variable color microcapsule with core and three layers as shown in FIG. 6 by fluidized-bed process:

(1) hybrid pigment (internal color): Huang: red: black=55.18:34.48:10.34

example 11:

By using component and the content described in following table, prepare the variable color microcapsule with core and three layers as shown in FIG. 7 by fluidized-bed process:

(1) hybrid pigment (internal color): white: Huang: red=92:6:2

example 12:

By using component and the content described in following table, prepare the variable color microcapsule with core and three layers as shown in FIG. 8 by fluidized-bed process:

(1) hybrid pigment (internal color): white: Huang: red: black=89:2:8:1

(3) component of each layer (in detail):

example 13:

By using component and the content described in following table, by fluidized-bed process prepare as shown in FIG. 9 there is core and two-layer variable color microcapsule:

(1) component: core seed-white TiO ₂granular layer-exterior color layer

(2) component of each layer (in detail):

example 14:

By using component and the content described in following table, prepare the variable color microcapsule with core and three layers as shown in Figure 10 by fluidized-bed process:

(1) hybrid pigment (internal color): white: Huang: red: black=84.3:5.0:8.7:2

(2) component: core seed-internal color layer-TiO ₂granular layer-outermost shell

iI compositions

In all embodiment, " alcohol " refers to " ethanol ".

While explanation, be conventional scheme for the preparation of the scheme of compositions.

embodiment 1: foundation cream

preparation scheme

Prepare respectively water (water, butanediol, magnesium sulfate) and fatty phase (silicone surfactant, oil, filler).

Then, these two phases of mixture under Moritz stirs, until homogenization.

Then, under stirring, Moritz adds the bismuth oxychloride being dispersed in hydroxy stearic acid Octyl Nitrite, until homogenization.

Then, under stirring, Moritz adds alcohol.

Then, under stirring, low Rayneri adds microcapsule, until homogenization.

observe

Compositions in tank or on finger has the pearly outward appearance of white, and microcapsule is covered by bismuth oxychloride predispersion.

On skin, use and evenly after, that described compositions is unified and bright dressing effect.

embodiment 2: for the clear gel with brown microcapsule of cosmetic results

preparation scheme

At 70 DEG C premixing B, be mixed into solution clarification.

Main mixing

1. phase A1 fully expands polymer in water, is then heated to 80 DEG C-85 DEG C;

2. add A2, mix until dissolve completely;

3. add phase B, dissolve completely, be then cooled to RT;

4. lower than 40 DEG C, join in phase C;

5. vacuum and slowly mixing, to reduce the bubble in main body;

6. add phase D1, D2;

7. vacuum and slowly mixing, until temperature, to RT, has bubble hardly;

8. add lentamente phase E (microcapsule), do not utilize scraping blade to mix;

9. in the time that microcapsule disperses completely equably, stop mixing, detecting pH and viscosity;

According to above-disclosed scheme, at 25 DEG C, the viscosity of the gel of measuring by Rheomat RM180 is approximately 20UD (No. 3 rotors).

the outward appearance of compositions and use after assessment

Gel presents transparent and careful outward appearance, also presents covering dressing effect.

Inventor obtains the gel of the colored microcapsule with pure and clean outward appearance, it has fabulous stability :-20/20 DEG C (5 cycle), room temperature (25 DEG C, 2 months), 37 DEG C (2 months) and 45 DEG C (2 months).Be administered between skin stage, microcapsule discharges pigment, during using, there is comfortable sensation, and when gel is given natural dressing effect during as foundation cream, but there is the excellent balance of skin-care effect perception (moistening, moisturizing and transparent) and cosmetic effect (suitable covering) simultaneously.

embodiment 3: skin-care gel

Prepare gel according to disclosed scheme in embodiment 2.

After being applied on skin, obtain natural dressing effect, there is skin-care effect perception (moistening, moisturizing and transparent) and cosmetic effect (suitable covering) is well balanced simultaneously.

embodiment 4: gel protective skin cream

Obtain said composition according to classical method.After being administered on skin, obtain health effect, there is skin-care effect perception (moistening, moisturizing and transparent) and cosmetic natural effect is well balanced simultaneously.

embodiment 5: for the Emulsion (O/W) of eyes

Obtain this O/W Emulsion according to classical method.

This cream is applied in to around eyes, gives natural skin and dressing effect, it has reduced black-eyed observability.

embodiment 6: aerosol foam

From KPT's

A) preparation process

1. by powder mixer mixed-powder phase

2. the powder of mixing is added in main still

3. the water (75 DEG C-85 DEG C) of heating is joined in main still

4. the oil phase (75 DEG C-85 DEG C) of heating is joined in main still

5. in main still, homogenize

6. after mixing, cool to room temperature

7. surfactant and spice are added in main still

8. in main still, homogenize

9. add microcapsule and utilize oar to mix gently

10. finish to form main body

(filling process)

11. pour main body in pressurized package thing into

LPG (propane/butane mix (liquefied petroleum gas or LPG)) is added (5%, 0.31MPa) in pressurized package thing by 12.

Utilize A-D combination, the foam obtaining is white; Utilize combination E, obtain foam, in main body, cannot see granule completely.

In the time being applied on skin, they all give natural skin and dressing effect.

embodiment 7: cream

A) prepare scheme

1, mixing and heating phase B at 72 DEG C

2, introduce phase A and turbine until homogenizing

3, be cooled to 65 DEG C

4, introduce phase C (C1 and C2), mix and gelation

5, introduce phase D (D1 and D2), fully mix

6, be cooled to 45 DEG C

7, introduce phase E

8, be cooled to 30 DEG C

9, introduce phase F1, fully mix

10, introduce carefully phase F2, until homogenizing

Obtain good moisturizing cream.

Claims

1. the color-changing composition for keratin material is nursed and/or made up, described color-changing composition at least comprises in physiologically acceptable medium:

-core, described core comprises a kind of organic material,

At least one polymer,

At least one coloring agent,

Advantageously at least one material based on fat,

B) at least one C ₂-C ₈single methanol,

2. color-changing composition according to claim 1, wherein, described microcapsule comprises at least two layers, preferably at least one organic internal layer of different colours and an organic skin.

3. color-changing composition according to claim 1 and 2, wherein, described microcapsule is uncoloured, that is, described skin is white or transparent, and in the time that described skin is transparent, visual described internal layer is white.

4. according to the color-changing composition described in aforementioned claim any one, wherein, described core comprises at least one the monosaccharide or derivatives thereof as described organic material, especially be advantageously selected from the monosaccharide-polyhydric alcohol of mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, Sorbitol and composition thereof, preferably mannitol.

5. according to color-changing composition in any one of the preceding claims wherein, wherein, comprise and be selected from least one following hydrophilic polymer around the coating of described at least one deck of described core: polysaccharide and derivant, preferably include a kind of saccharide type or various saccharides type, preferably comprise at least polysaccharide and the derivant of the various saccharides type of D-Glucose unit, especially starch and derivant, cellulose or derivant, more preferably starch and derivant.

6. according to color-changing composition in any one of the preceding claims wherein, wherein, described microcapsule at least comprises:

At least two layers of-different colours,

-and advantageously, at least one material based on fat, preferably amphipathic compound, more preferably phospholipid, even more preferably phosphoryl glycerol, for example hydrolecithin.

7. according to color-changing composition in any one of the preceding claims wherein, with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, comprise by weight at least 0.1% to 20%, the microcapsule between 0.5% and 15% by weight preferably.

8. according to color-changing composition in any one of the preceding claims wherein, wherein, described single methanol is selected from ethanol, propanol, butanols, isopropyl alcohol and isobutanol.

9. according to color-changing composition in any one of the preceding claims wherein, wherein, described single methanol is ethanol and/or isopropyl alcohol, is more preferably ethanol.

10. according to color-changing composition in any one of the preceding claims wherein, with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, comprise by weight at least 2%, better by weight 3% to 8%, 4% to 6% single methanol by weight preferably.

11. according to color-changing composition in any one of the preceding claims wherein, also comprises at least one polyhydric alcohol.

12. according to the color-changing composition described in last claim, wherein, described polyhydric alcohol is selected from: glycerol, tetramethylolmethane, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,3-PD, pentanediol, hexanediol, isoamyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and two glycerol, and composition thereof; Glycerol and derivant thereof; Polyglycereol, as glycerin oligomer, as two glycerol and Polyethylene Glycol; Glycol ethers, especially comprises the glycol ethers of 3 to 16 carbon atoms, as MPG (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, dipropylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether or tripropylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, monoethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, diethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether or triethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether; And composition thereof.

13. according to the color-changing composition described in claim 11 or 12, based on the weight of described aqueous phase composition, comprise 12% to 50%, especially by weight 13% to 40%, more preferably 14% to 35%, better 15% to 30% polyhydric alcohol and/or glycol by weight.

14. color-changing compositions according to claim 1, wherein, described microcapsule is in microcapsule diameter, is of a size of 50 μ m to 800 μ m, 60 μ m to 500 μ m preferably, and comprises:

I) core (A), preferably, the size of described core is counted 500nm to 150 μ m with diameter, preferably, described core does not comprise any coloring agent and comprises at least one organic core, described at least one organic core be preferably selected from least one sugar alcohol, be preferably selected from monosaccharide-polyhydric alcohol, be advantageously selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, Sorbitol, and composition thereof;

Ii) around a ground floor (B) of described core, described ground floor (B) comprising:

-at least one coloring agent, preferably iron oxides, and

-binding agent, described binding agent be selected from least one polymer, at least one material based on fat, and composition thereof, its mixture preferably;

Iii) around a second layer (C) of described ground floor (B), the thickness of the described second layer (C) is preferably 5 μ m to 500 μ m, comprising:

-titanium dioxide granule, and

IV) alternatively, around one the 3rd layer (D) of the described second layer (C), comprising:

-at least one coloring agent, and

V) alternatively, if there be described the 3rd layer, around one the 4th layer (E) of described the 3rd layer (D), otherwise around the 4th layer (E) of the described second layer (C), comprising:

The polymer of-at least one formation wall, the polymer of described at least one formation wall is preferably selected from: polysaccharide, as cellulose derivative, especially cellulose ether and cellulose esters; (gathering) (alkyl) (methyl) acrylic acid and derivant, especially (gather) (alkyl) (methyl) Polyacrylate and its derivatives, preferably alkyl acrylic/alkyl methyl acrylic copolymer and derivant thereof.

15. according in any one of the preceding claims wherein for nursing the variable color make-up composition of keratin material, with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, be included in physiologically acceptable medium by weight 0.1% to 5%, 0.1% to 3% microcapsule by weight preferably.

16. according to variable color make-up composition in any one of the preceding claims wherein, with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, comprise by weight at least 30%, preferably by weight at least 40%, the water of at least 50% amount by weight more preferably.

17. according to variable color make-up composition in any one of the preceding claims wherein, with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, comprises by weight 30% to 99%, the water of 40% to 95%, more preferably 50% to 90% content by weight preferably.

18. according to variable color make-up composition in any one of the preceding claims wherein, and wherein, at least one layer of described microcapsule obtains by fluidized-bed process.

19. 1 kinds of beauty methods for keratin material is nursed and/or made up, comprise by keratin material as described in being applied in as the compositions that in aforementioned claim, any one limited, especially on skin.

20. 1 kinds of beauty methods for keratin material is nursed and/or made up, comprise and will be applied in face or around eyes as the compositions that in aforementioned claim, any one limited.