CA1297038C - Foamable creams - Google Patents

Foamable creams

Info

Publication number
CA1297038C
CA1297038C CA000544923A CA544923A CA1297038C CA 1297038 C CA1297038 C CA 1297038C CA 000544923 A CA000544923 A CA 000544923A CA 544923 A CA544923 A CA 544923A CA 1297038 C CA1297038 C CA 1297038C
Authority
CA
Canada
Prior art keywords
propellant
emulsion
composition
percent
viscosity
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Fee Related
Application number
CA000544923A
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Rolf-Dieter Beutler
Thomas Wimmer
Gunhild Angst
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Merz and Co GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
Merz and Co GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Merz and Co GmbH and Co KG filed Critical Merz and Co GmbH and Co KG
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of CA1297038C publication Critical patent/CA1297038C/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/12Aerosols; Foams
    • A61K9/122Foams; Dry foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Abstract

ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
Foamable cosmetic creams for application onto the skin, comprising a selected creamy oil-in-water emulsion and a selected propellant, which may be and advantageously is a single propellant gas, are disclosed. Improvement of the froth properties is effected by predetermined control of the ingredients of the composition and their proportions, comprising specific percentage ranges of nonionic emulsifier, oil portion, consistency-providing agent, and water, a viscosity of the starting cream emulsion formed therefrom between about 200 and 500 mPas, and the propellant employed, which consists essentailly of nitrous oxide or carbon dioxide, preferably nitrous oxide.

Description

-1- M~7. 14 FOAMA~LR CREAMS

BACKGROUND OF THE, INVENTION

Field of Invention The present invention is concerned with derma-tologically-acceptable creams, which are foamable by means of an included propellant from a dispenser vial or other dispensing container, for application onto the skin in the form of a cosmetic mousse.

Prior Art The requiremen~s placed upon this type of cream or lotion, in particular, are an adequate foam stability, fluffy and creamy GOnSiStenCy, bright and non-dull appearance, easy distributability, and ready absorption by the skin. In practice, the major difficulties heretofore encountered have resided in the problem of combininglall of these properties into a single product without sacrificing ~one advantage for the other.
Attempts have already been made to solve this problem by employing special gases, particularly com-binations thereof, as essential propellants in specific and limited predetermined weight rakios (DE-PS 24 06 109 and correspondin~g` USP ~/970~584~ issued July 20, 1976 to S. C. Johnson and Son).
The invention of the Johnson;patent involves a mixture of two''physicochemically different propellant ;

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- 2~ MF,RZ 14 systems, namely, a pressurized ~as such as CO2, N20, 2~ or N2, which must be mixed with a liquified gas such as a hydrocarbon or halogenated hydrocarbon~ The Johnson formulation will, however, not lead -to a usable product if only one propellant-type is used alone, which would be an obvious advantage. Moreover, if a li~uified gas is used as propellant, no satisfactory product, as desired according to the present invention, is delivered from the container in which the emulsion of the invention is dispensed.
OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION
It is an ob~ect of the invention to provide an improved ~ermatologically-acceptable foam- or mousse-producing composition which is a creamy oil-in-water emulsion comprising certain prescribed components within certain ranges as well as certain prescribed physical characteristics which moreover requires only a single pressurized gas to convert it from the creamy emulsion to the dispensèd mousse. Another object is the provision of such a product wherein nitrous oxide or carbon dioxide, preferably the former, is the essential single propellant involved. Other objects will become apparent hereinafter and still others will be obvious to one skilled in the art.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
It has now been found that the properties of such foams can be substantially improved, attaining, in particular, a bright and creamy froth or mousse which is stable for at least five (5) minutes if -irrespective of the particular propellant employed -the cream emulsion, loaded into the dispensing con-tainer and to be therein mixed with the propellant, comprises a predetermined combination of ingredients making up the composition and predetermined physical 7Q~
parameters therefor, with such improvernent being obtained with the employment of either of two suit-able and selected propellants, although the greatest improvement is achieved by the selection of a partic-ular propellant, namely, nitrous oxide.
The present invention preferably employs pres-surized nitrous oxide alone, which has been found to give best results. If CO2, another compressed gas, is used, the resultinq mousse is satisfactory, but not as o~tstanding or advantageous, as can be seen from the examples. Both N~O and CO2 show a sufficient solubility in the water of the emulsion system and otherwise fulfil the requirements of the present invention. If 2 and N2, which are compressed gases which theoretically could also be used, are employed, however, no mousse with suitable properties is delivered from the dispenser because, among other things, of the lack of adequate solubility of these gases in water.
The present invention therefore utilizes the essential employment of N~O or CO2 alone, preferably N20. Of course, this does not mean that the addition of small amounts of other and even otherwise unsuitable gases will alter the characteristics of the product so much as to avoid the operativeness or advantaaes of the present invention, as will be recognized by one skilled in the art, and to this extent small amounts of other gases may be included, as more fully disclosed hereinafter.
THE INVENTION IN GENERAL
The starting emulslon according to the irvention contains between about 2 and 9 percent by weight of nonionic emulsifying agen~, between about 4.5 and 21 percent by weight of oil portion, and between about .5 and 4.5 percent by weight of consistency~providin~

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agent, the balance being water to 100 percent by weight, and it must have a viscosity of between about 290 and 500 mPas (as measured on the ROTOVISKO~
viscometer of the Haake Company, West Ger~any, MVI
system, measuring head 500, 64 rpm at 25C).
A) The nonionic wet in~ ayent employed can be, for example, an alkyl polyglycol phosphoric acid ester, glyceryl stearate, PEG glyceryl stearate, PEG stearate, PEG stearyl or PEG cetyl stearyl ether, each by itself or in combination with one another.
B) ~:he oil portion is selected, for example, from fatty substances such as vegetable and mineral oils, liquid fatty alcohols, and liquid waxes.
C) The consistency-providing agent suitably employed may be, for example, selected from macro-molecular gel builders, fats, waxes, and alcohols of long-chain fatty acids.
In addition to selecting the emulsion components and adhering to the critical qua~tity ranges as above-stated, in the practice of the invention it is also important to adjust the emulsion before mixing with the selected propellant into the afore-mentioned viscosity ranges, i.e., the viscosity of the cream emulsion not yet mixed with the foaming agent or propellant must have the specified viscosity. Unless these viscosity values are adhered to, the properties of the foamed cream wlll not be entirely satisfactory despite adherence to the quantity ranges of th~ emulsion as specified for the invention. It is apparent that the viscosity of the emulsion is determined by its composition, i.e., by its components and the quantity ratios thereof. Therefore, in case it should first turn out in respect of any particular emulsion, prepared within the specified ranges of the invention, that it does not have the viscositv values specified , 3~
-5- ~ERZ 14 for the invention, then amounts of the respective components will have to be altered so as to bring the viscosity within the ranges specified for the invention to be operative.
The visc ~ of the starting oil in water em~lsion has an important influence, along with the type of propellant employed, upon the foam density and the bubble size of the cream froth. What is desired is a foam density between about .1 and .16 g/cm3 and an average bubble size of between about 4 and 20~m~ In this respect, both viscosity of the starting emulsion and the propellant employed are critical.
The particulary preferred propellant is nitrous oxide (N2O). However, carbon dioxide or mixtures of nitrous oxide with carbon dioxide, nitrogen, or fluorohydrocarbons may also suitably be employed~ If propellant mixtures are used, the followin~ weight ratios are preferred, it being observed from the examples that the propellant must consist essentially of nitrous oxide or carbon dioxide, with nitrous oxide being much preferred. Within the limits of "consisting essentially of1, for nitrous oxide, it is to be understood that the following mixtures are to be included, as well as a mixture of carbon dioxide or nitrous oxide with minor amounts of any other propellant which does not detract from the desired and superior resulting foam product:
nitrous oxide : carbon dioxide = 1 . 0.5 - 1 nitrous oxide : fluorohydrocarbon = 1 : 0.8 - 0.9 nitrous oxide : nitrogen = 1 : 0~5 FI~RTHE:E~ DISCUSSION OF COMPONENTS
The components of the formulations of the present invention may be characterized by their galenical task in the product. Therefore a nonionic emulsi~ier (A), ' ' ' :

-6- MERZ 1~

an oil portion (B), a so-called consistency~providing agent (C), and water (D) are the essential ingredients or components. The nonionic emulsifier (A) employed is selected so as to be dermatologically acceptable, since the product is intended for skin care. As is usual in the development of emulsion systems, at least two dif-ferent types of emulsifiers are preferably and normally employed to give the emulsion improved physical stabil-ity. One emulsifier alone may be s~lfficient, as shown in Example 4/1, although such is not the usual practice In emulsion type products for skin care the content of fats and fatty substances is norTnally adjusted to between about 15 and about 30% by weight, depending upon the skin status. ~ven when nonionic-emulsifiers are counted as fat components, we have generally been able to satisfy this requirement by operating according to the present invention, it being recognized that from a dermatological and economic point of view, it is not worthwhile or desirable to extend the amount of emulsi~ier employed beyond what is required for a stable emulsion. The rest of the fat is provided by liquid oils and fats - here named "oil portion (B)" - which have no surface activity as does component (A), and essentially no consistency-providing characteristics as does component (C).
Even if a nearly satisfactory emulsion system can be pro~uced using components ~, B and water (D) alone, the consistency-providing component (C) is necessary to increase the viscosity to the desired and necessary range of 200-500 mPas and to ensure the desired product foam-forming characteristics and enhance the foam appearance and stability. It is for this reason that the so-called consistency-providing agent ~C) is emplgyed. One can utilize solid fats such as the higher fatty alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol, as well as .. . ~ ' . . : .

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ParafEin oil, or solid waxes. On the other hand, materials such as a carboxy-containing polymer, e.g., Cabomer 9~0 (neutralized with triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide solution, or ammonia water) or traganth or other gum may also be used as component (C).
The starting emulsion may be prepared as shown in working Example 1, or otherwise according to the skill of the art Eor preparing such oil-in-water emulsions and charging them with a propellant gas, illustratively according to U.S. Patent 3r970,584t to which reference may also be made for other details which are well known to one skilled in the art.
DISCUSSION OF THE EXAMPLES
The examples show that, to achieve a suitable creamy, shiny foam suitable as a cosme~ic mousse and having a proper foam stability and density, using essentially a single gaseous propellant, which consists essentially of nitrous oxide or carbon dioxide, the following parameters must be recognized in practice:
The emulsion must consist essentially of the following in intimate admixture:
_ngredient weight percent (or parts) (a) nonionic emulsifying agent 2-9 (b) oil portion 4.5~21 (c) consistency-providing portion .5-4 5 (d~ water g.s. 100, said emulsion having a viscosity between about 200 and 500 mPas, with which emulsion in a suitable dispensing container ~-ith usual dispensing nozzle is then combined the specified propellant gas, usually in the range of between about one and four percent by weight of total propellant--containing emulsion, preferably between about 1.2 and 3.2 percent, and ordinarily to give a pressure between abot~t 7 and 10 bar or 100 and 150 psi in the dispensing container. When the propellant is essentailly N2O, the range is preferably between about 2 and 3.2 percent, and when the propellant is essentially CO2, the range is preferably between about 1.2 and 1.7 percent.
The Examples show that, when the nonionic emul-sifier is not present within the prescribed range, the results are not satisfactory, even when other types of emulsifier are also present; that the selection of the propellant is critical; that viscosity values for the starting emulsion are critical and that other types of emulsifying agents can actually detract from or prevent the production of a satisfactory emulsion and mousse i~ employed in too great a quantity along with the necessary nonionic emulsifying agent; and that an essentially single gas propellant will not be effective to produce a satisfactory emulsion and foam mousse unless all of the foregoing parameters are recognized and followed in practice.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The following Examples are given by way of illustration only and are not to be construed as limit ing, all ingredients or components being identified by the CTFA nomenclature as evidenced by the CTFA -Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd Edition (1982~, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Assoc./ Inc., 1110 Vermont ~venue, N.W., in Washington 7 DC, 20005.
EXAMPLE --- REPRESENTATIVE WORKING EXAMPLE
An oil-in-water emulsion system having the follow-ing formulation is charged with nitrous oxide as propellant system:

A) Trilaureth-4-Phosphate 2.0 9 Polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4-stearate 6.0 g Cetearth-12 1.0 ~

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' ~2~ S3 B) Mineral Oil 6.0 g Avocado Oil 1.0 g Isopropyl Palmitate 5.0 9 Jo~joba Oil 1 0 g Octyldodecanol 3.0 g C) Cetearyl Alcohol 2.0 g Carbomer 940 0.3 9 D) Water 72~3 g Triethanolamine 99% 0.4 g Mix A, B and the Cetearyl Alcohol of C and heat this mixture to about 70C (158nF). Add the Carbomer 940 and disperse carefully by stirring the melt. Heat D to about 75~C (167~F) and add this solution in parts to the melt while stirring. After addition of total amount of D, stir for about 10 minutes. Then cool the resulting emulsion to about 28C (82.4F).
Homogenise in usual manner with a suitable system for about five minutes at 1500 rpm. Homogenisation in context with emulsion systems is very common. A
representative homogenizer system is called ULTRA
TURRAX~ by Ika-Werk, Janke and Kunkel, D-7813 Staufen im Breisgau. The distribution of the water particles in the oil-water system is thus enhanced, the particles become smaller, and the system becomes more stable~
The prin~iples of such a homogenizer is a rapidly-rotating stirring device within a static one. The necessary degree of distribution is determined by the time ( usually about 5 minutes) and the speed (usually about 1500 rpm, revolutions per minute) during usage.
Suitable substances (preservative, perfume, or cos-metically-active ingredient) may be added during the production process.

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-lO~ M~RZ 14 Then ~7.6 g of the emulsion is charged with 1.4 g pressurized nitrous oxide. The results are as shown in the l'able for Example 1/1a.
The other compositions set forth in the Table are prepared in the same manner or with modifications which will be apparent to one skilled in the art and are similarly identified by a distinctive Rxample number in the heading.

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~14-- ~lF,RZ 14 EXPLANATION OE~ EXAMPLES 1/1a, 1/2a, RND 1/2b All these emulsions have a composition and ViScGs-ity according to the invention and contain ingredients which are in type and guantity suitable for cosmetic O/W-emulsions. They show good dermatological pro-perties as well. The amount of the nonionic emulsifier (A) used is at the higher limit of the prescribed range. The oil portion (]3) and the viscosity for Example 1/la is in the midclle of the range. If you lower the percentage of oil portion, the resulting viscosity is also lower (compare Example 1/2a).
Example 1/2b shows the influence of CO2. Deliv ered by dispenser, the resulting foam is more compact than if N20 is used (as in Example 1/2a), so that the ~oam density is higher.

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-20- M~R~. 14 EXPLANATION OF EXAMPLES 2/la AN~ 2/2a .

Example 2/1 a has a composition and viscosity of the invention, and with ingredients in type and quantity suitable for cosmetic emuisions. The ~id-range content of nonionic emulsifier (A), the high content of oil portion (B), and the low content of consistency-providing agent (C) leads to a viscosity of about 435 mPas. Use of more consistency-providing agent (1.5%) results in a higher viscosity (compare Exam~ple 2/2a) which is not satisfactory. The emulsion shows a viscosity which is too great and the delivered foam is too stiff. These examples show that there is a connection between the viscosity and the properties of the delivered foam. Because of their influence on each other, it is necessary to find the right proportions of the three components according to the cosmetic and dermatologic demands as well as to stability criteria.
If one uses C02 (2/lb, 2/2b) instead of N~O
(2/1a, 2/2a), one obtains a delivered foam which shows an enlarged foam density. In case 2/1 the influence is ` not so remarkable. This effect can better be observed when the viscosity is too high to begin with, as in 2/2.
If one employs a liquified gas type propellant, such as a fluorohydrocarbon (2/1c), the delivered foam has no luster, is dull, and has the appearance of a shaving foam.

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-22- MEnz 14 EXPLAN _ ION OF EXAMPLE 3/1 This is simply another example which shows an emulsion according to the invention, employing ingredients which are suitable for cosmetic emulsions.

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, -25- MEE~% 14 EXPLANATION OF EXAMPLES 4/1 and 4/2 In this case only one ingredient for A, B and C
is used in mid-range quantity.
Example 4/1 shows an emulsion according to the invention.
If the oil portion (C) is elevated (4/2), the composition is outside the clairned ranges. Although the viscosity is inside the invention, the delivered ~am is too liquid.

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, .,q ~ 3 -28 - MEf~Z 1 4 EXPLANATION OF EXAMPLES 5/1a and 5/1b Examples like these are described in the patent of Johnson & Son. Usually they describe formulations with anionic emulsifiers or combinations with non-ionics.
The results show that these emulsions cannot be delivered by compressed gases. The appearance of the delivered product does not: conform to that of the present invention although the viscosity is in the proper range (5/1a). The use of M20 alone leads to a foam which is too liquid, as does the use of C02 (5/1b) It is necessary to mix two types of pro~ellants as described in the United States Patent 3,970,534 with this type of emulsion composition.
The resulting ~oam product has an appearance which is not within the proposed product properties according to the present invention.
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~'71~3 -30- ~IERZ 1 This example is also given in the S. C. Johnson &
Son Patent. In comparison to Example 5, the viscosity has been increased to 900 mPas. Even this alteration does not lead to a foamed product which is sufficiently stable or creamy.

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-34- ~ER2 14 Example 7/1 is not an emulsion composition of the invention, both the oil portion and the viscosity being outside the prescribed ranges. Neither compressed gas (N20, CO2) will work. By varying the components B and C to get a stable emulsion system, a formula (7/2) is found which has the right viscosity, and product~
emulsion as well as foam properties are within the range of the present invention.

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-37- MERZ l ~1 F.XPLANATION OF EXAMPLES R/1a AND 8/1 b _ _ The formula percentages are inside the claimed range of the invention but the resulting viscosity is too low. The foam delivered is not satisfactory. This fact is not dependent upon the pressurized propellant used (a = N20, b = C2) , ,..

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3F~, ~41- MERZ 14 EXPLANATION OF EXAMPLES 9/1, 9/2 and 9/3 The formulation of Example 9/1 shows the same characteristics as Example 8. The composition con-forms to the claimed range of the ingredients but the viscosity is too low (9/1). If the formulation is altered to bring the viscosity inside the necessary range (about 445 mPas in 9/2~, a mousse according to the invention can be delivered by nitrous oxide~
The formulation of Example 9/3 is an example of another composition outside the scope of the present invention, and gives an obviously unsatisfactory product and result.

: . . ' .
: :
.

-42- M~RZ 14 From the foregoing Tabulations and Explanations, it is apparent that the compositions of the present invention are foamable cream emulsions which, upon activation by the included propellant in a suitable dispensing container, are productive of an extremely high quality cosmetic mousse.
In conclusion, from the foregoing Examples, Tabulations, and Discussion it is apparent that the present invention, which involves the employment of certain well-defined but relatively limited ingredients within certain relatively specific parameters or ranges, provides novel foamable compositions which are useful in producing a superb shiny, stable, and creamy cosmetic mousse, upon activation of the propellant contained therein simply by releasing the same to the external or ambient atmosphere in usual manner through a usual dispensing nozzle, and which are therefore useful as cosmetic mousse-producing foamable creams, having the said desirable, highly advantageous, and unpredictable properties It is to be understood that the invention i5 not to be limited to the exact details of operation, or to the exact compounds, compositions, methods, procedures, or embodiments shown and described, as obvious modifications and equivalents will be apparent to one skilled in the art, and the invention is therefore to be limited only by the full scope of the appended claims.

, `

:

Claims (7)

1. A foamable cream, suitable for forming a cosmetic mousse, comprising an oil-in-water cream emulsion and a propellant therein, characterized in that the cream emulsion prior to admixture with the propellant consists essentially of a mixture of between about
2 and 9 percent by weight of a dermatologically-acceptable nonionic emulsifying agent, between about 4.5 and 21 percent by weight of an oil portion, and between about .5 and 4.5 percent by weight of a consistency-providing agent, the balance being water to 100 percent by weight, has a viscosity between about 200 and 500 mPas, and by the fact that the propellant consists essentially of nitrous oxide or carbon dioxide 2. A composition according to Claim 1 characterized in that the propellant consists essentially of nitrous oxide.
3. A cosmetic mousse produced from the composition of Claim 2 wherein the bubble size is between about 4 and 20µm and the foam density is between about .1 and .16 g/cm3.
4. A composition of Claim 1 wherein the propellant is present in an amount between about one and four percent by weight of the propellant-containing emulsion.
5. A composition of Claim 4 wherein the composition is under a pressure between about 100 and 150 psi.
6. A composition of Claim 4 wherein the propellant is CO2 in amount between about 1.2 and 1.7 percent.
7. A composition of Claim 4 wherein the propellant is N2O in amount between about 2 and 3.2 percent.
CA000544923A 1986-08-20 1987-08-19 Foamable creams Expired - Fee Related CA1297038C (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DEP3628531.5 1986-08-20
DE19863628531 DE3628531A1 (en) 1986-08-22 1986-08-22 FOAMABLE CREAMS

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Publication Number Publication Date
CA1297038C true CA1297038C (en) 1992-03-10

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JP (1) JPS6357511A (en)
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DE3628531C2 (en) 1988-12-15
EP0257336A3 (en) 1988-08-03
DE3628531A1 (en) 1988-02-25

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