CA1219808A - High pearlescent pressed powder eye shadow composition - Google Patents

High pearlescent pressed powder eye shadow composition

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Publication number
CA1219808A
CA1219808A CA000454994A CA454994A CA1219808A CA 1219808 A CA1219808 A CA 1219808A CA 000454994 A CA000454994 A CA 000454994A CA 454994 A CA454994 A CA 454994A CA 1219808 A CA1219808 A CA 1219808A
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CA
Canada
Prior art keywords
weight
composition according
present
group
ingredient
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
CA000454994A
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Philip J. Gordon
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Chesebrough Ponds Inc
Original Assignee
Chesebrough Ponds Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
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Publication of CA1219808A publication Critical patent/CA1219808A/en
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Classifications

    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11DDETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D3/00Other compounding ingredients of detergent compositions covered in group C11D1/00
    • C11D3/0005Other compounding ingredients characterised by their effect
    • C11D3/0089Pearlescent compositions; Opacifying agents
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent

Abstract

ABSTRACT OF THE INVENTION

A pressed powder cosmetic eye shadow composition containing from about 40-80% by weight of nacreous material and a binder comprising a dry binder ingredient selected from the group consisting of cosmetically suitable micronized polyethylene wax and a mixture of liquid/solid binder ingredients comprising petrolatum; a cosmetically suitable tetraester having the formula C(CH2O)4[?-R]4 wherein R may be a straight, branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl having from 5 to 21 carbon atoms; and a cosmetically suitable polyolefin (synthetic wax) formed by polymerizing an alpha olefin having the formula RCH = CH2, wherein R is a hydrocarbon group having from 3 to 18 carbon atoms.

Description

~2~9~30~3 BAC~GROUND OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to cosmetic eye shadow compositions and specifically pearlescent, pressed powder eye shadow compositions and to a process for their preparation.
Pressed powder eye shadow compositions containing nacreous pigments such as natural pearl, mica, bismuth oxychloride, bismuth oxychloride on mica, titanated mica, and titanated mica and iron oxide, are well-known in the cosmetic industry and widely used by consumers to highlight the eyes by imparting an iridescent effect to the eyelid area. Said compositions are generally manufactured by compacting a powder composition under pressure in suitab]e recepticles to form a cake or tablet. The finished product is generally applied to the eyelid area with a foam tipped applicator or soft brush. Pressed powder eye shadow compositions which contain high levels of pearlescent material are generally preferred since these compositions impart to the eyelids the most dramatic iridescent affects.
However, it has been found that pressed powder eye shadow formulations having a high pearlescent content give rise to a number of serious manufacturing problems, foremost of which is the problem of achieving satisfactory compactibility of the composition. Acceptable compaction of pressed powder eye shadow compositions is a function of the amount of pearlescent material, the binder system used in compounding the composition, the size of the recepticle into which the composition is compacted, the pressure under which lZ19808 the composition is compacted and the speed at which the composition is compacted, i.e. the number of units compacted per minute.
To begin with, pressed powder compositions which contain less than about 40% by weight of pearlescent materials generally exhibit unacceptable reflectivity on the skin and for that reason are not considered a pearlescent eye shadow. It has been found that suitable skin reflectivity is only realized where the e~e shadow compositions contain 40~
or more pearlescent material. However, such compositions are difficult to compact and often exhibit poor skin adhesion properties. While various binder systems have been employed to aid in overcoming compaction problems, the high pearlescent formulations have a tendency to produce softer pressed cakes which often fail to meet standard industry drop tests and ship tests and therefore, lead to a high rejection rate at the pressing operation or consumer dissatisfaction because of glazing or crumbling tendancies. While the specific binder system used in the pressed powder high pearlescent formulations is critical to successful compaction, pr~ssability of a formulation is also dependent on the dimensions of the pans or godets into which the formulations are pressed and the speed at which the pressing operation is carried out. Currently, those manufacturing high pearlescent compositions are constrained to use small circular or rectangular shaped pans (approximately 1" in diameter, length or width and approximately 1/8" in depth) 1219~30~
when pressing at high speed. If the pan size is substantial.ly larger, it is generally necessary to reduce the pressing speed in order to achieve satisfactory compaction. Obviously, this pan size/pressing speed dil.emma contributes to the cost of manufacture.
As a result of the present invention, the aforementioned problems encountered in the manufacture of pearlescent pressed powder eye shadow compositions have been eliminated altogether or signiEicantl.y reduced.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Hence, it is an object of the present invention to provide pressed powder eye shadow compositions which contain high co~centrations of pearlescent material such as natural pearl, mica, bismuth oxychloride, bismuth oxych].oride on mica, titanated mica, and titanated mica and iron oxide and which are easily compacted.
It is another object of the present invention to provide a binder system for pearlescent materials which permit the use of less costly pearlescent material without diminishing the high luster associated with more costly pearlescent materials.
It is another object of the present invention to provide pressed powder eye shadow compositions which have excellent skin application, adhesion, and wearability properties.

~,, ~19808 It is a further object of the present invention to provide high pearlescent, pressed powder eye shadow compositions which can be compacted at high speeds.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide high pearlescent, pressed powder eye shadow compositions which can be pressed in pans having a wide variety of dimensions and shapes, particularly pans having large dimensions.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide high pearlescent, pressed powder eye shadow compositions which can consistently meet and surpass standard industry drop tests and shipping tests.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a process for obtaining high pearlescent pressed powder eye shadow compositions which possess the foregoing characteristics.
These, as well as other objects of the present invention, will become apparent from the following disclosure.
In accordance with the present invention, it has been found that the addition to particles of mica, as well as other suitable pearlescent materials, of the novel binder system described hereinbe]ow, provides pressed powder eye shadow compositions which permit the utilization of high concentration of pearlescent material, which can be compacted at high pressing speeds into recepticles having a wide variety of shapes and sizes and which exhibit all of the 12198(313 desired properties of an excellent pressed powder eye shadow.
The nacreous or pearlescent materials that may be used in accordance with the present invention include all conventional materials used to effect iridescence. Typical pearlescent materials include nacreous pigments such as natural pearl, mica, bismuth oxychloride, bismuth oxychloride on mica, titanated mica, and titanated mica and iron oxide.
However, the novel binder system now affords the opportunity of utilizing lower cost pearlescent material without the usual concomitant loss in pearlescence, since the binder, in addition to the primary compaction role which it plays, imparts an enhanced luster, gloss or iridescence to the pearlescent material.
In accordance with the present invention, the novel eye shadow compositions contain from about 40% to 80% by weight of pearlescent materia~, with the preferred range of said materials being from about 45% to 70% by weight.
The novel binder system employed in the present invention is a two-part system comprising a dry powdered binder ingredient which is mixed with the pearlizing agent or agents along with other optional, conventional dry ~powdered) eye shadow ingredients, e.g. talc, metal soaps, colorants, fragrances and preservatives, and a liquid binder mixture comprising suitable moisturizers, emollients and lubricants.
The dry binder ingredient is a cosmetically suitable micronized polethylene wax, i.e. a highly crystalline polymer having a molecular weight range, from ~2198(18 about 600 to 4000 and preferably from about 700 to 800 and a particle size from about 2 microns to 35 microns which facilitates incorporation of said binder with the other powdered ingredients to produce a homogeneous mixture quickly and efficiently. The preferred dry binder ingredient and its properties is set forth in Table I below:
TABLE I
MICRONIZED POLYETHYLENE WAX
Particle Size 25 Microns Avg.
Molecular Weight 750 It has been found that a crystalline micronized polyethylene wax manufactured by the Bareco Division of Petrolite Corporation is preferred. SILTEK M. the trade name of this micronized polyethylene wax has the properties set forth in Table II.
TABLE II
SILTEK M
Melting point 219F (104C) Particle size 25~Avg.
Molecular weight 750 Density 77 F (25 C) 0.96 grs/cc Viscosity 300F (99 C) 50 SUS
When used in conjunction with the liquid phase of the binder system, it has been found that micronized polyethylene wax is capable of binding difficult systems containing up to 80~
pearlescent pigments, e.g. titanated mica, without glazing or cake agglomeration. The effectiveness of micronized ~219808 polyethylene wax is in part attributed to the cold-flow properties which it possesses. The amount of dry binder ingredient used in the present invention ranges from about 0.1% to 15% by weight, with the preferred amount ranging from about 0.5% to 9.0% by weight.
The liquid phase of the binder system comprises the folowing ingredients: petroleum jelly (petrolatum), a tetraester having the general formula C(CH20)4[C-R]4, wherein R may be a straight, branched, saturated or unsaturated alky]
group having from 5 to 21 carbon atoms; and a polyolefin formed by polymerizing an alpha-olefin having the general formula RCH=CH2, wherein R is a hydrocarbon group having from 3 to 18 carbon atoms.
Petroleum jelly or petrolatum is a purified mixture of semi-solid hydrocarbons from petroleum, chiefly the methane fraction having a genera] formu]a CnH2n+2. More specifica]ly, petrolatum is a collodial system of non-straight chain solid hydrocarbons and high boiling liquid hydrocarbons in which most of the liquid hydrocarbons are held inside the micelles. Petrolatum is utilized to aid in binding the various powdered ingredients in the eye shadow composition as well as to provide moisturization. Moreover, it has been found that the use of petrolatum improves the wear in pressed powder eye shadows and imparts a water-resistant property to said cosmetic compositions. The amount of petroleum jelly present in the liquid phase of the binder system ranges from about 0.25% to 5.5% by weiqht, with ~Z~9808 the preferred range being from about 0.75% to 3.5~ by weight.
The tetraester ingredient present in the liquid phase of the binder system is a tetraester of pentaerythritol and a cosmetically suitable acid, e.g. Iauric, oleic, stearic, palmitic, linoleic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, acetic and a branched chain nonanoic acid. The tetraester of pentaerythritol and oleic acid and particularl.y the product sold under the trade name LIPONATE PO-4 manufactured by LIPO
Chemical Inc. is a preferred binder ingredient. It has been found that the use of LIPONATE PO-4 not only imparts exceptional lubricity but also improves the luster of the pearlescent materials used in the eye shadow formulations.
The amount of the tetraester ingredient in the present invention ranges from about 1.0% to 15% by weight, with the preferred range being from about 2.0% to 4.5%.
The po].yolefin (synthetic wax) component of the liquid phase of the binder system and the process for making the same is disclosed, inter al.ia, in United States patent No. 2,937,129. Hexene-l, heptene-l, octene-l, decene-l, undecene-l, dodecene-l and tetradecene-l, are examples of typically polyolefins suitabl.e for use in the present invention. However, dodecene-l, and specifically that compound sold under the trademark VYBAR~ 825, manufactured by the Bareco Division of the Petrolite Corporation, is preferred. The polyolefin component functions as a lubricant which not only aids in binding the powder ingredients but also serves as an inorganic pigment (iron oxide) wetting g ~Z~91~08 agent and enhances color, intensity and wearability of the final eye shadow compositions. The amount of the polyolefin in the present invention ranges from about 0.1% to 3.0% by weight, with the preferred amount ranging from about 0.5% to
2.0% by weight.
While the foregoing describes the essential ingredients of the two-part binder system which is incorporated with the pearlizing agent, other optional ingredients may be added to either the pearlescent material or the binder system. For example, talc, i.e. the transparent forms thereof, is often used as a filler in conjunction with the pearlescent material in a pressed powder eye shadow composition. In the preferred embodiments of the present invention, talc may be present in amounts up to about 40% by weight.
Cosmetically suitab]e metal soaps, such as metal]ic stearates, e.g. zinc, lithium, magnesium and calcium stearates, are utilized in powder form to impart good skin adhesion and lubricity to the eye shadow composition. In preferred embodiments of the present invention, zinc stearate may be present in amounts up to about 6.0% by weight.
Additional option ingredients include effective amounts of conventional, cosmetically suitable preservatives, colorants, such as ironoxide pigments as well as natural pigment, and fragrances. As with all ingredients in the eye shadow composition of the present invention, it is important, due to the great sensitivity of the eye area, to avoid using ~.Z~9~308 any ingredients which could act as an irritant and the use of the phrase "cosmetically suitable" as used herein is intended to mean that the particular ingredient is pure, safe, non-toxic and non-irritating.
Optional ingredients which may be incorporated into the liquid phase of the two-part binder system include fatty esters and triesters of glycerine and a cosmetically suitable acid.
The fatty esters contemplated for use in the present invention are characterized by the general formula R1C-OR2, wherein Rl is a group containing from 1 to 21 carbon atoms which may be straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated and which may contain hydroxyl groups; R2 is a group containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms which also may be straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated and which may contain hydroxyl groups; and further wherein R] and R2 may be the same or different; or having the general formula o o R2-O-C-(CH2)n-C-ORl wherein "n" is an integer from 2 to 6 and R2 has the same meaning as disclosed above and may be the same or different. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, octyl palmitate and particularly that compound sold under the trade name of Ceraphyl 368, manufactured by VanDyk & Company, Inc. is used. Other suitable fatty esters include isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate. Those skilled in the art will be aware of the fatty esters that are available. The fatty ester ingredient may be present in the eye shadow composition in amounts up to about 15% by weight, with the preferred range being from about 1.5% to 5.5~ by weight. The fatty ester primarily serves as a wetting agent for the pearlescent pigment and improves the high pearlescent cake appearance, product application and powder pressability.
In addition to the optional fatty ester ingredient, the liquid binder phase may also (optionally) include tri-esters of glycerin and a cosmetically suitable acid selected from the group consisting of lauric, stearic, oleic, palmitic linoleic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, acetic and branched chain nonanoic acids, e.g. respectively, trilaurin, tris-stearin, -triolein, tripalmitin, trilinolein, triisostearin, trihydroxystearin, triacetin and triisononanoin. Said tri-esters are primarily used as emollients in pressed powder eye shadow compositions of the present invention and have been found to improve the wear and to impart a water-resistance to said compositions. A suitable triester or mixture of tri-esters, i.e. selected from those disclosed herein may be present in the novel cosmetic formulations in an amount up to about 7.0% by weight, with preferred amount ranging from about 0.4% to about 5.5% by weight. Of the aforementioned triesters, trilaurin is preferred and specifically the com-pound sold under the trade name SOFTISAN 100, manufactured by K-Fries Inc., Division of Dynamit Nobel.
It will be obvious to those skilled in the art that other optional ingredients may also be incorporated in the novel cosmetic formulations of the present invention, for ex-~.Z1980~
ample antioxidants and water, hence the examples of optionalingredients heretofore described are not intended to be lim-iting in any respect.
In preparing the pressed powder eye shadow compos-itions of the present invention the powdered (dry) ingredi-ents, discussed supra, are individually weighed and placed in a twin-cone blender, and dry blended for approximatley two minutes to produce a uniform, homogenous mixture.
The liquid and solid binder ingredients are indivi-dually weighed, placed in a vessel and liquified by heating to approximatley 190F. The liquified mixture is then sprayed under pressure into the blender containing the dry mixed in-gredients with agitation to produce a homogenous bulk, powdered eye shadow formulation The bulk, powdered eye shadow formulation is then transferred to the hopper of a standard pressing apparatus, for example an Arenco Press and gravity fed to a cavity, the bottom of which contains the godet (pan). A pressing ribbon is fed over the filled cavity and the powdered formulation is compacted into the godet by means of a punch at a pressure of about 1200 to about 9000 psi for approximately two seconds.
Thereafter, the godet is ejected from the cavity and replaced by an empty godet and the process is repeated. Those skilled in the art will be fully familiar with the above-described press apparatus and its operation.
The invention will be more fully understood from the examples which follow, which are presented herein by way ~Z~9808 of illustration and are not to be considered as limiting.

Seventy pounds of an eye shadow formulation MPG-02-24A Batch 240D (Blue), were prepared in accordance with the procedure disclosed hereinabove. Said formulation con-tained the following percents by weight of ingredients:
Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 40.95 Titanated Mica4.30 Ceraphyl 368 18.00 Mica 3.57 Liponate PO-4 10.00 Bismuth Oxychloride 2.90 Softisan 100~
6.00 Talc 2.80 Petroleum Jelly 6.00 Zinc Stearate1.43 VYBAR@~ 825 2.50 SILTEK M
1.10 Colorants 0.20 Germall 115 0.15 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben 85.00 l5.00 Packers of pressed samples (575 pieces each) were prepared on a "Arenco", Model AT8 powder press fitted with a double (2) cavity die station. Each sample was pressed at 3769 psi into godets having the dimensions .956" x .806" x .112" at a pressing speed of 48 pieces per minute.

Two hundred and twenty-five pounds of an eye shadow formulation MPG-02-146 Batch 3l0C (Rose) were prepared using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formu-.

~Z~9~08 lation of Example l; however, the percent by weight of SILTEKM was increased from 2.5% to 3.75% and the godet size was also increased.
Samples of the present formu~ation were pressed using the identical appartaus used in Example 1 except for a powder press change over from double to single cavity die station in order to accommodate the size of the l.arger godet.
Samples (Packers of 260 pieces each) were pressed at 2630 psi into godets having the dimensions of 2.435" x .950" x .120" at a pressing speed of 21. pieces per minute.

Two hundred and twenty-five pounds of an eye shadow formulation MPG-02-150 Batch 309A (Cream) were prepared using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formu-lation of Example l; however, the percent by weight of SILTEK
M was increased to 5.0%.
Pressing parameters were essentially the same as those used in Example 2; however, each sample was pressed at 2630 psi into godets having the same configuration and dim-ensions of the godets used in Example 2. The pressing speed was approximately 21 pieces per minute.

Two hundred and twenty-five pounds of an eye shadow formulation MPG-02-144 Batch 310A (Dark Blue) were prepared using the identical. procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 2.
Pressing parameters were essentially the same as ~3LZ198C~8 those used in Example 2; howevex, each sample was pressed at2958 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimen-sions of the godets used in Example 2. The pressing speed was approximately 21 pieces per minute.

Two hundred and twenty-five pounds of an eye shadow formulation MPG-03-6 Batch 319A (Dark Blue) were prepared using the identical procedure as used in preparing the formu-lation of Example 4; however, the percent by weight of SILTEK
M was increased from 3.75% to 5.0~.
Pressing parameters were essentially the same as those used in Example 2; however, each sample was pressed at 2465 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimen-sions of the godets used in Example 2. The pressing speed was approximately 24 pieces per minute.

Two hundred and twenty-five pounds of an eye shadow formulation MPG-02-148 Batch 310A (Light Blue) were prepared using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 3.
Pressing parameters were essentially the same as those used in Example 2; however, each sample was pressed at 2630 psl into godets having the same configuration and dimen-sions of the godets used in Example 2. The pressing speed was approximatley 21 pieces per minute.

Two hundred and twenty-five pounds of an eye shadow ~Z~9808 formulation MPG-03-8 Batch 316A (Light Bl.ue) were prepared using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 6; however, the percent by weight of SILTEK M was increased from 5.0~ to 7.5~.
Pressing parameters were essentially the same as those used in Example 2; however, each sample was pressed at 2465 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimen-sions of the godets used in Example 2. The pressing speed was approximately 22 pieces per minute.

An eight pound laboratory batch of an eye shadow formulation MPG-03-80 (Light Brown) was prepared in a labora-tory twin-cone blender using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 1. Said formul.a-tion contained the following percents by weight of ingred-ients:
'. Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 20.00 Titanated Mica 4.30 Ceraphyl 368 20.00 Mica 3.57 Liponate PO-4 6.00 Talc 2.90 Softisan 100~
6.00 Zinc Stearate 2.80 Petrol.eum Jelly 5.00 SILTEK M 1.45 VYBAR~ 825 27.55 Colorants 0.20 Germall 115 0.15 Methylparaben 0.10 Propy].paraben 85.00 15.00 ~Z~9808 Pressed samples were prepared using a "Carver", model 300 laboratory-style powder press. Each sample was pressed in the laboratory at 1157 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 2.

An eight pound laboratory batch of an eye shadow formulation EMS-13-94 Batch (Rose-Lid) were prepared using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formula-tion of Example 8. The formulation contained the following amounts (percent by weight) of ingredients:
Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 30.05 Titanated Mica 4.30 Ceraphyl 368 30.00 Colorants 3.57 Liponate PO-4 10.00 Mica 2.90 Softisan 10 ~
6.00 Talc 2.80 Petro~eum Jelly 6.00 Zinc Stearate 1.43 VYBA ~ 825 2.50 SILTEK M
0.20 Germall 115 0.15 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben 85.00 15.00 Pressed samples were prepared essentially in ac-cordance with the procedure used in Example l; however, each sample was pressed at 4908 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 1 and the pressing speed was approximately 52 pieces per ~Z~98~;)8 minute.

An eight pound laboratory batch of an eye shadowformulation MPG-03-82 (Light Blue) was prepared using the id-entical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 8. The formulation contained the following amounts (percent by weight) of ingredients:
Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 40.00 Titanated Mica 4.30 Ceraphyl 368 20.00 Mica 3.57 Liponate PO-4 20.00 Bismuth Oxychloride 2.90 Softisan 100~
5.00 SILTEK M 2.80 Petroleum Jelly 1.43 VYBA ~ 825 85.00 15.00 Pressed samples were prepared essentially in ac-cordance with the procedure used in Examp~e 8; however, each sample was pressed in the laboratory at 1736 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 2.

An eight pound laboratory batch of an eye shadow formulation MPG-03-112 (Blue) was prepared using the identic-al procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Ex-ample 8. The formulation contained the following amounts (percent by weight) of ingredients:
Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 40.00 Titanated Mica 4.30 Ceraphyl 368 l2lsaos 40.00 Talc 3.57 Liponate PO-4 5.00 SILTEK M 2.90 Softisan 10 ~
2.80 Petroleum Jell.y 1.43 VYBA ~ 825 85.00 15.00 Pressed samples were prepared essentially in accor-dance with the procedure used in Example 8; however, each sample was pressed in the laboratory at 1061 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 2.

An eight pound laboratory batch of an eye shadow formulation MPG-03-104 (Celadon) was prepared using the iden-tical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 8. The formul.ation contained the following amounts (percent by weight) of ingredients:
Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 32.00 Titanated Mica 4.30 Ceraphyl. 368 20.00 Mica 3.57 Liponate PO-4 20.00 Bismuth Oxychloride 2.90 Softisan lo0R
6.00 Talc 2.80 Petroleum Jelly 5.00 SILTEK M 1.43 VYBAR 825 1.55 Colorants 0.20 Germall 115 0.15 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben 85.00 15.00 i, 9801!3 Pressed sampl.es were prepared essentially in accor-dance with the procedure used in Example 8; however, each sample was pressed in the laboratory at 1446 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 2.

An eight pound laboratory batch of an eye shadow formulation MPG-03-86 (Cel.adon) was prepared using the ident-ical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 8. The formulation contained the following amounts (percent by weight) of ingredients:
Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 26.00 Titanated Mica 4.30 Ceraphyl 368 20.00 Mica 3.57 Liponate PO-4 20.00 Bismuth Oxychloride 2.90 Softisan 10 ~
6.00 Talc 2.80 Petrol.eum Jel.l.y 6.00 Lithium Stearate 1.43 VYBA ~ 825 5.00 SILTEK M
1.55 Colorants 0.20 Germall 115 0.15 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben 85.00 15.00 Pressed samples were prepared essentially in accor-dance with the procedure used in Example 8; however, each sample was pressed in the laboratory at 1639 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets ~Z~98Q~

used in Example 2.

An eight pound laboratory batch of an eye shadowformulation MPG-03-88 (Blue) was prepared using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 8. The formulation contained the following amounts (percent by weight) of ingredients:
Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 26.50 Titanated Mica 4.30 Isopropyl Palmitate 20.00 Mica 3.57 Liponate PO-4 20.00 Bismuth Oxychloride 2.90 Softisan 100~
6.00 Talc 2.80 Petroleum Jelly 6.00 Zinc Stearate 1.43 VYBA ~ 825 5.00 SILTEK M
1.05 Colorants 0.20 Germall 115 0.15 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben 85.00 15.00 Pressed samples were prepared essentially in accordance with the procedure used in Example 8; however, each sample was pressed in the laboratory at 1446 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 2.

An eight pound laboratory batch of an eye shadow formulation MPG-03-90 (Blue) was prepared using the identical ,, lZ~9~3OB

procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Exampl.e8. The formulation contained the fol.lowing amounts (percent by weight) of inqredients:
Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 26.50 Titanated Mica 4.30 Ceraphyl 368 20.00 Mica 3.57 Liponate PO-4 20.00 Bismuth Oxychloride 2.90 Capryl.ic/Capril/
Stearic Triglyceride 6.00 Talc 1.43 VYBA ~ 825 6.00 Zinc Stearate 2.80 Petroleum Jelly 5.00 SILTEK M
1.05 Colorants 0.20 Germall 115 0.15 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben 85.00 15.00 Pressed samples were prepared essentially in accordance with the procedure used in Example 8; however, each sample was pressed in the l.aboratory at 1446 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 2.

An eight pound laboratory batch of an eye shadow formulation MPG-03-116 (Peach) was prepared using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 8. The formulation contained the following amounts (percent by weight) of ingredients:

~2~980~

Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 26.50 Titanated Mica 4.30 Ceraphyl. 368 20.00 Mica 3.57 Pentarythrytol Tetra Isocaprylate 20.00 Bismuth Oxychloride 2.90 Softisan 10 ~
6.00 Talc 2.80 Petrol.eum Jelly 6.00 Zinc Stearate 1.43 VYBA ~825 5.00 SILTEK M
1.05 Colorants 0.20 Germall 115 0.15 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben 85.00 15.00 Pressed samples were prepared essential.ly in accordance with the procedure used in Example 8; however, each samp].e was pressed in the laboratory at 1446 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 2.

An eight pound laboratory batch of an eye shadow formulation MPG-03-118 (Peach~ was prepared using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 8. The formulation contained the following amounts (percent by weight) of ingredients:
Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 36.55 Titanated Mica 6.87 Liponate PO-4 20.00 Mica 5.38 Petroleum Jell.y '"~'' ~Z~9808 10.00 Bismuth Oxychloride 2.75 VYBA ~ 825 6.00 Talc 6.00 Zinc Stearate 5.00 SILTEK M
1.00 Colorants 0.20 Germall 115 0.15 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben 85.00 15.00 Pressed samples were prepared essentially in accordance with the procedure used in Example 8; however, each sample was pressed in the laboratory at 1466 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 2.

An eight pound ]aboratory batch of an eye shadow formulation MPG-03-136 was prepared using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 8. The formulation contained the following amounts (percent by weight) of ingredients:
Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 36.55 Titanated Mica 6.87 Liponate PO-4 20.00 Mica 5.38 Petroleum Jelly 10.00 Bismuth Oxychloride 2.75 VYBA ~825 5.00 SILTEK M
13.45 Colorants 85.00 15.00 ~Z19808 Pressed samples were prepared essentially in accordance with the procedure used in Example 8; however, each sample was pressed in the laboratory at 1466 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 2.

An eight pound laboratory batch of an eye shadow formulation MPG-03-126 was prepared using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 8. The formulation contained the following amounts (percent by weight) of ingredients:
_y Ingredients Liquid/So~id Ingredients 56.55 Titanated Mica 4.30 Ceraphyl 368 10.00 Bismuth Oxychloride 3.57 Liponate PO-4 6.00 Talc 2.90 Softisan 100~
6.00 Zinc Stearate 2.80 Petro]eum Jelly 5.00 SILTEK M 1.43 VYBAR~ 825 1.00 Colorants 0.20 Germall 115 0.15 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben 85.00 15.00 Pressed samples were prepared essentially in accordance with the procedure used in Example 8; however, each sample was pressed in the laboratory at 1446 psi into godets having the same configuration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 2.

~z~.9808 An eight pound ]aboratory batch of an eye shadow formulation MPG-03-128 (Blue) was prepared using the identical procedure as was used in preparing the formulation of Example 8. The formulation contained the following amounts (percent by weight) of ingredients:
Dry Ingredients Liquid/Solid Ingredients 36.50 Titanated Mica 4.30 Isopropyl. Palmitate 20.00 Mica 3.57 Pentarythrytol Tetra Isocaprylate 10.00 Bismuth Oxychloride 2.90 Caprylic/Capri]/
Stearic Triglyceride 6.00 Talc 2.80 Petroleum Jelly 6.00 Zinc Stearate 1.43 VYBA ~825 5.00 SILTEK M
1.05 Colorants 0.20 Germall 115 0.15 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben 85.00 15.00 Pressed samp]es were prepared essentially in accordance with the procedure used in Example 8; however, each sample was pressed in the laboratory at 1061 psi into godets having the same configuaration and dimensions of the godets used in Example 2.
Each of the sets of pressed powder eye shadow sampl.es prepared in Examples 1 through 20 were evaluated ~2~9ao8 using standard industry criteria--Drop Test, Penetration and Application. The resul.ts of the eval.uation are presented below in Table III.
TABLE III

Examples -1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 -Drop Test 0/10 0/100/10 4/100/10 2/100/10 0/10 0/10 (1) Penetration 12/15 10/1515/1920/256/15 18/2313/18 12/17 7/10 (2) Application * * * * * * * * *
(3) Examples -10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Drop Test 0/10 0/100/10 0/100/10 0/101/10 0/10 0/10 (1) Penetration 15/19 10/15 14/20 14/18 13/19 12/18 17/25 16/24 15/20 (2) Application * * * * * * * * *
(3) Examples -19 20 Drop Test 0/10 0/10 (1) Penetration 15/20 15/20 (2) Application * *
(3) lz~9ao8 (1) Drop Test Drop a to-tal of ten godets from a distance of 24 inches onto a 1/8 inch rubber -tile over a concrete floor. Make sure that all the godets dropped land in an upright position. Any godets landing on their sides or front should be discarded and not counted. A failure is indicated if one out of ten samples fractures.
(2) Penetration Test a total of five godets. Measure in center of cake. Use small brass cone, (weight 47.5 grams). Do not use any weight on rod. The purpose of the test is to measure the cake hardness. The respective figures are .I mm. Acceptab]e range is between about 6 and 25.
(3) Application Rub the surface of the sample and the control with a clean sponge applicator.
The sample should equal the control in application with no glazing or flaking.
Application should be the same along both lengthwise edges. Two samples should be tested. Acceptable results are indicated by an asterisk (*).
Thereafter, each of the production batches of pressed powder eye shadow samples prepared in Examples 1 through 7 were ssembled into compacts and packaged carded and uncarded into ~Z1980~3 packages of three. A protective divider (compact scuffing)was added as is done with all current uncarded compacts.
Packages were then assembled into master cartons of 72 pieces. Each master carton was then subjected to the standard industry "ship test" which entailed vibrating the top, bottom, and side of each master carton for twenty minutes ~total one hour) and thereafter dropping each master carton six times, once on each side, from a height of three feet.
This test is standard for UPS requirements for packages weighing less than fiften pounds (National Safe Transit Association - Pre-Shipment Test Procedure Project lA).
The results of the "ship test" are set out below in Table IV.
TABLE IV

Example No. Results #l Passed -- no breakage #2 Passed -- no breakage #3 Passed -- no breakage #4 -- Failed --#5 Passed -- no breakage #6 -- Failed --#7 Passed -- no breakage The pressed powder eye shadow composition produced in accordance with the present invention can be easily applied to the skin to provide a lustrous adherent color film with excellent wear properties and dramatic pearlescent affects. The aforesaid compositions are further characteri~ed by the ability to formulate the same with acceptable ~Z~9808 compatibility at maximum operating speeds and in receptacles having a wide variety of shapes and sizes, particularly in godets having large dimensions.

Claims (21)

THE EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION IN WHICH AN EXCLUSIVE
PROPERTY OR PRIVILEGE IS CLAIMED ARE DEFINED AS FOLLOWS:
1. A pressed powder cosmetic composition containing from about 40-80% by weight of nacreous material and a binder comprising a dry binder ingredient selected from the group consisting of cosmetically suitable micronized polyethylene wax and a mixture of liquid/solid binder ingredients comprising petrolatum; a cosmetically suitable tetraester having the formula C(CH2O)4[?-R]4 wherein R may be a straight, branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl having from 5 to 21 carbon atoms; and a cosmetically suitable polyolefin (synthetic wax) formed by polymerizing an alpha olefin having the formula RCH = CH2, wherein R is a hydrocarbon group having from 3 to 18 carbon atoms.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the nacreous material is selected from the group consisting of natural pearl, mica, bismuth oxychloride, bismuth oxychloride on mica, titanated mica, and titanated mica and iron oxide.
3. A composition according to claim 2 wherein the amount of nacreous material is present in an amount ranging from about 45% by weight to 70% by weight.
4. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the dry binder ingredient is a micronized polyethylene wax having a molecular weight range from about 600 to about 4000 and having a particle size from about 2 microns to 35 microns, said ingredient being present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to 15% by weight.
5. A composition according to claim 4 wherein the molecular weight of the micronized polyethylene wax ranges from about 700 to about 800.
6. A composition according to claim 4 wherein the micronized polyethylene wax is present in an amount ranging from about .5% to 9% by weight.
7. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the petrolatum ingredient in the binder mixture is present in an amount ranging from about .25 to 5.5% by weight.
8. A composition according to claim 7 wherein the petrolatum is present in an amount ranging from 0.75% to 3.5%
by weight.
9. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the tetraester ingredient binder mixture is a tetraester of pentaerythritol and a cosmetically suitable acid selected from the group consisting of lauric, oleic, stearic, palmitic, linoleic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, acetic and branched chain nonanoic acid.
10. A composition according to claim 9 wherein the tetraester is present in an amount ranging from about 1.0% to 15.0% by weight and wherein the preferred amount of said tetraester is about 2.0% to about 4.5% by weight.
11. A composition according to claim 3 wherein the tetraester is a tetraester of pentaerythritol and oleic acid.
12. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the polyolefin ingredient in the binder mixture wax is selected from the group consisting of hexene-l, heptene-l, octene-l, decene-1, undecene-1, dodecene-1 and tetradecene-1.
13. A composition according to claim 12 wherein the polyolefin ingredient is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to 3% by weight and wherein the preferred amount of said polyolefin ingredient is about 0.5% to 2% by weight.
14. A composition according to claim 12 wherein the polyolefin is dodecene-1 and specifically the compound VYBARR
825.
15. A composition according to claim 1 containing talc, metal soap, colorant, fragrance and preservative and wherein the talc is a filler selected from the group consisting of transparent talcs and is present in amounts up to about 40%
by weight; the metal soap is selected from the group consisting of zinc, lithium, magnesium and calcium stearates and is present in amounts up to about 6% by weight; the colorant is selected from inorganic and natural pigments and is present in amounts up to about 30.0% by weight; the fragrance is a cosmetically acceptable fragrance and is present in a fragrance-effective amount; and the preservatives are selected from cosmetically acceptable preservatives.
16. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the binder mixture contains a fatty ester having the formula R1?-OR2, wherein R1 is a group containing from 1 to 21 carbon atoms which may be straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated and which may contain hydroxyl groups; R2 is a group containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight, branched, saturated or unsaturated and which may contain hydroxyl groups; and wherein R1 and R2 may be the same or different; or the formula R2-O-?-(CH2)n-?-OR1 wherein n is an integer from 2 to 6 and R2 has the same meaning as above and may be the same or different.
17. A composition according to claim 16 wherein the fatty ester is present in amounts up to about 15.0% by weight and preferrably present in an amount ranging from about 1.5%
to 5.5% by weight.
18. A composition according to claim 16 wherein the fatty ester is selected from the group consisting of octyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl lanolate and isopropyl myristate.
19. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the binder mixture contains a triester of glycerine and a cosmetically suitable acid selected from the group consisting of lauric, stearic, oleic, palmitic, linoleic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, acetic branched chain nonanoic acid.
20. A composition according to claim 19 wherein the triester ingredient is trilaurin.
21. A composition according to claim 19 wherein the triester is present in an amount up to about 7.0% by weight and preferrable in an amount ranging from about 0.4% to about 5.5% by weight.
CA000454994A 1983-07-20 1984-05-24 High pearlescent pressed powder eye shadow composition Expired CA1219808A (en)

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ZA844218B (en) 1985-01-30
JPH0550484B2 (en) 1993-07-29
AU570482B2 (en) 1988-03-17
JPS6025909A (en) 1985-02-08
EP0132631A1 (en) 1985-02-13
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AU3056184A (en) 1985-01-24
US4534963A (en) 1985-08-13

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