The Rio Negro Hot Springs are set right on the river in a pretty patch of forest near Rincon de la Vieja National Park. They range from moderately warm to pretty damn hot, with the most picturesque being in the latter category - so this is an experience best enjoyed early morning on later in the day, when the temperatures are cooler. Even in the evening the hottest of the pools will start to feel a little too steamy over time, but you can cool off in the river, which makes for the perfect hot/cold plunge experience.
As well as the pools, you can also lather yourself in mud and then wash it off to gain silky smooth skin.
The hot springs are rustic, so definitely don’t come expecting anything luxurious, the water is clean, but you’ll find plenty of leaves etc inside the water and the complex feels very dated. If that doesn’t bother you, read on for what to expect when visiting Rio Negro Hot Springs.
Visiting the Rio Negro Hot Springs
The waterfall swimming spots
Before we get started on the hot springs, I wanted to mention something I hadn’t seen online and wasn’t expecting from our hot springs visit. If you have a ticket for the hot springs you can also visit the Rio Negro Waterfalls, which are located opposite the entrance to the hot springs. The two combined make your entry ticket much more worthwhile in my opinion.
Along one easy walk of 650m each way, you’ll come across four waterfalls, each with their own swimming hole. When we visited we only saw a handful of people, making it likely that you’d be able to get a swimming hole entirely to yourself (a rarity in this part of the world).
They are located in the forest, so for the most part they are nice and shady. The waterfalls were lovely and one swimming hole in particular was really big, we couldn’t understand why it’s not more well known!
The path to reach the waterfalls is gravel up until you get to the side trails down to each of the swimming holes, where it’s slightly more rustic - but not difficult, I was fine in flip flops. The final waterfall has a few stairs, but it’s still a very easy walk overall.
The Rio Negro Waterfalls
Waterfall one
Distance: 150m each way
The walk to waterfall one has a very gentle incline, but honestly it’s very easy and the path is in great condition. You then have a slightly rougher track down to the falls, but it’s only really a few steps. This is the same for each of the falls.
Waterfall one was one of my favourites because though it’s small, it’s quite powerful (and this was in the height of the dry season). There’s a fairly large swimming hole and you’re surrounded by forest. The water is cold, but the air temperature is hot, so it’s not really a problem.
Waterfall two
Distance from waterfall one: 170m
Waterfall two is worth a peek, but it was my least favourite of the four. It has a smaller swimming hole and it’s not quite as pretty as the others.
It’s moments off the main trail though, so definitely pop by and have a look.
Waterfall three
Distance from waterfall two: 70m
Waterfall three itself isn’t huge, but the pool is! It’s definitely one of the larger swimming holes we’ve visited lately. It’s the best swimming hole of the bunch and a lovely serene spot. There’s plenty of room for a proper swim and the water is a deep green. It would be worth visiting the waterfalls for this spot alone.
There’s a picnic bench beside this one if you want a nice lunch spot.
Waterfall four
Distance from waterfall three: 260m
Waterfall four is a little further on and there are a few stairs, but it’s by no means difficult.
This is another picturesque spot and in terms of the waterfall itself, the most beautiful. It’s bigger and sits beside a huge tree with a mass of tangled roots, which give it a lovely enchanted forest feel.
In terms of the pool, it’s the smallest, you can still have a plunge, but it’s not really a place to actually swim.
When you’ve visited all the falls, simply retrace your steps back to the parking area and hit the hot springs.
The Rio Negro Hot Springs experience
The walk to the springs
Distance: 300m each way
The walk to the hot springs is easy and the gravel path takes you through the forest. Come evening it’s lit with fairy lights. It’s not entirely flat, but it is for the most part, and the small inclines are never steep.
After 270m you’ll reach the main changing rooms.
You’ll then reach some stairs heading downhill (with a handrail). The signage is a little confusing as you’ll get to a swing bridge, which seems to indicate it’s the way to the first few pools.
It sort of is, but it’s the longer route. You can just take the stairs down to reach the same pools, but the swing bridge is fun if you don’t mind walking a few minutes further.
The pools are located in a small area, but to reach them all there is one swing bridge you do have to cross (unlike the first one which is optional). It’s quite a wobbler, I love that kind of thing, but I did see a few people reluctant to cross!
The hot springs
The ten pools range from 37C to 45C! The ones which were 40C felt really hot, so I did not dare venture into the one which was 45C, and I actually never saw anyone in there. I shudder to think what 45C feels like.
In the late afternoon the 37C ones were fine to sit in for a long time as they only felt warm, not hot. The 39C and 40C pools still felt hot, so I could only stay in them for a little while at a time.
There are pools of various sizes, but the best are the ones directly overlooking the river. The most picturesque and my personal favourite was the tiny one perched right at the end of the walkway (pool number 8) which has the best river view. This one felt a little bit special.
The only downside was that even though it said the water temperature was 39C, it definitely felt hotter!
It’s also the most popular pool because it is the most photogenic, so you may have to wait if it’s occupied. Although you can fit 4-6 people in there, it’s best enjoyed alone if possible.
Access to the river is beside pool two and pool ten (there’s one stairway on either side of the river). This is the only place where getting into the river is encouraged, elsewhere there are lots of danger signs.
Stairs take you right to the waters edge and then you can dunk yourself in the cool river, it’s shallow but you can just about fully submerge. It will definitely help if you’re feeling the heat!
You can also take volcanic mud from the large pot and cover yourself in it before letting it dry and washing it off in the cool river water. It’s good for the skin and should leave you feeling silky smooth.
The best time to visit the Rio Negro Hot Springs
Rincon de la Vieja is a really hot part of Costa Rica, so visiting in the early morning, or late afternoon is going to be a more enjoyable experience.
We arrived just before 5pm and it was relatively busy, but by 5.45pm it had emptied out and we were the only people there! It’s open until 7pm, so you have plenty of time if you do come a bit later. I imagine around opening time would also be quiet, but we didn’t test this out.
In terms of seasons, if you want to cool off in the river then it’s better in the dry season, when the flow of the water is lower. I have also seen pictures where the river has turned brown following very heavy rain. You can still visit, but it would be less picturesque and you wouldn’t be able to take a dip in the river.
Rio Negro Hot Springs opening hours and entry fees
At time of writing the hot springs are open every day between 9am and 7pm.
The entry fee is USD $33, or free for guests of the Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin (as it’s run by them). You must buy your tickets at the hotel or online and you’ll get given a wristband.
In honesty I think the fee for the springs is quite high if you’re not also going to visit the Rio Negro Waterfalls and make a whole afternoon of it.
Depending on whether you want to visit more waterfalls and swimming spots that are also owned by the hotel, you might be better off staying there, because then you get access to all these places for free. We wanted to visit Oropendola Waterfall and Las Chorreras Waterfall, as well as the hot springs, so for us it was a no brainer.
If you stay at the hotel you can get access to the waterfalls and hot springs from 8am (before you check into your room) until closing time the following day. We managed to visit every spot on a one night stay, so it worked out to be much better value than paying for activities individually.
The rooms in the hotel are spacious, but not fancy. There’s reliable hot water and internet, and it was remarkably quiet - something that can’t be said for most of Costa Rica! The beds are on the firm side though!
Facilities at the Rio Negro Hot Springs
There are changing rooms, showers and lockers you can use, as well as towels. There is limited parking, but we never saw it full.
Getting to the Rio Negro Hot Springs
The Rio Negro Hot Springs are located 27km and a 40 minute drive from Liberia. If driving this way you will pass through a section of private road which costs 800 colones (approx USD $1.50) per person to use. If you’re a hotel guest your name will be on the list at the gate and you won’t be charged. It may be the same if you have prebooked tickets for the springs, but I can’t say for sure.
The springs are a 10 minute drive from the Las Pailas Sector of Rincon de la Vieja National Park, where you’ll find the gorgeous La Cangreja Waterfall walk.
Where to stay near the Rio Negro Hot Springs
Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin
We stayed at Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin because we wanted to access all their waterfalls, hot springs and swimming spots. It worked out cheaper to stay the night at the hotel than to pay for the entry tickets and then also pay for separate accomodation.
The rooms were no frills, but spacious and had reliable hot water and internet. They were also super quiet, which was a rarity in Costa Rica. The beds are on the firm side, but if you plan on visiting the resorts waterfalls as well as the hot springs, then it’s a good option.
You can check the reviews and prices on:
Hotel Rincón de la Vieja Lodge
If you don’t mind somewhere basic, then this is a good budget option and it’s just 3km from the hot springs. Rooms look rustic, but have private bathrooms. It’s really about proximity to the waterfalls and Rincon de la Vieja National Park with this one.
You can check the reviews and prices on:
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