The views from the top of Isthmus Peak are captivating. They are the kind of views that clear all thoughts from your mind beyond what is right there in front of you. Every uphill step that it took to get there is forgotten and all that’s left is you and a panorama of mountains and lakes so spectacular that you can hardly tear your eyes away.
Add in a great sunset and it’s a true pinch yourself moment.
Once only really known to locals, Isthmus Peak is gaining popularity with visitors who are put off Roys Peak by the crowds - or simply those that love to do as many hikes as they can cram into their trip (guilty!).
We were lucky enough to have the entire walk to ourselves in winter, which was hard to believe when it’s that beautiful a hike!
Here’s everything you need to know about the Isthmus Peak hike.
Isthmus Peak Track
The stats
Distance: 16.2km return
Elevation: 1,180m gained
Difficulty: Hard
The Isthmus Peak Track is no walk in the park, but it’s a very well maintained trail with no tricky terrain. It has very few flat sections and is predominantly an uphill grind all the way to the top.
We took 3 hours on the way up, and 2 hours on the way down, but are sure we could have been quicker if this wasn’t the first big climb we’d done in months (generally people take closer to 2 hours to get up)!
There is not much in the way of shade and a hot day will make it a more difficult hike. Some people fitter than we were at the time will find it easy, for us it was a bit of a slog but worth every last step and then some.
The trail is very easy to follow and well signposted.
What to expect on the Isthmus Peak Track at sunset
We did this hike for sunset, which - in our opinion - is the best time to enjoy this trail. The soft light and colours bring this incredible landscape to life, and the cooler temperatures will make it much more enjoyable in the summer. Sunrise would also be amazing.
Starting the trail
From the small car park for Isthmus Peak, the trail begins with a very short 200m walk along the road before turning on to the proper track.
A few minutes into the trail you’ll reach a long drop toilet, one of two on the trail, which shows that it must be gaining in popularity!
The next couple of hundred metres of the walk are relatively flat and shady through the forest. It then gently undulates for the next couple of hundred metres above the river.
It’s the 800m mark when the steeper climb begins.
You’ll quickly start to get some nice views back towards the lake and ahead to the misty forest (or misty for us anyway!). The gravel path is in good condition with the odd patch of mud if you’re hiking after rain.
At the 1.4km mark you will reach the only bit of the whole track where you have to walk up rock. For us it was soaking wet and quite slippery, but it only lasts 100m.
If it’s wet for you too just watch your footing here as it would be a real pain to slip right at the beginning of the walk when the rest of the path is so easy!
The blissful flat stroll through farmland
Once you’re over the short rocky section, in just a few minutes, you’ll reach a very narrow path through farmland. Enjoy this wonderful prolonged flat stretch because it’s pretty much the only one you get!
The scenery is really pretty with rolling green hills covered in sheep and the odd proud stag on one side, and the gorgeous Lake Hawea on the other.
The path does get quite muddy if it’s been wet but it wasn’t slippery at all. There is one bit where you have to cross a small stream, which had ankle deep mud but someone had kindly thrown logs in which gets you over perfectly.
This flat section lasts for roughly 850m. I remember looking ahead and wondering which of the jagged peaks might be Isthmus. In reality it’s none of them, Isthmus Peak is tucked away long out of sight.
As you are crossing private land, there is a fence running along one side of the track - as there is in several places along this hike. It doesn’t really detract from the views, and it’s so nice that they are happy to have people on the trail.
The switchbacks begin
The path takes you very briefly through a forested section before the real climb begins (2.3km into the hike). And it doesn’t ease you in gently. There are switchbacks, but not the long sloping kind, they are short and sharp.
The path is very wide and there’s nothing you need to be mindful of but dodging the ever present cow pats (they were huge and though we never saw any cows, we thought surely they couldn’t have come from the little sheep or deer?!).
The higher you climb the more magnificent the views become. Soon it’s not just the lake you’ll see but also a set of very jagged rocks on the left which were really atmospheric.
We were lucky enough to have just the right amount of swirling low cloud that rather than detracting from the view, it added to it. Given we’d had a rainy forecast we couldn’t believe our luck!
There are photo stops galore along the switchbacks which provide the perfect opportunity to take a breather if you’re a bit like us and not feeling overly fit!
And they just keep on going
After just under 2.5km you’ll round a corner and see a small peak ahead of you, this is not Isthmus Peak, but a false summit. One of several along this track.
The switchbacks up to the top of this first peak get steeper and tighter for 1.1km and then you’ve reached the top of the false peak and more than broken the back of the climb.
You’ll now be able to see even more snow-capped mountains ahead of you and the whole vista is just extraordinary. For the first time you’ll also be able to see your end destination.
A couple of hundred metres along a short flat section of track you’ll find the next toilet. Remember to BYO toilet paper!
You are now just under 2km from the top of Isthmus Peak, but it’s a much easier 2km than you have already walked.
The final push to the top
Just past the toilet you’ll begin another short sharp climb to the top of the small peak ahead of you. It doesn’t take too long and there was something about the fact that I knew we were now close that made it feel much easier than those endless switchbacks!
Once over this next little peak you’ll have another short flat section along a ridge heading towards Isthmus Peak on the right (it’s signposted). If you think the views from here are good, wait until you hit the top!
From the ridge there are two very short uphill sections to go, broken up by another little flat stretch. These climbs felt like they only took a few minutes because I was very eager to hit the top by this point.
We reached the top of Isthmus Peak after just over 8km.
The top of Isthmus Peak at sunset
The views from the top of Isthmus Peak are staggering. On one side you have Lake Wanaka and the other Lake Hawea and you are completely surrounded by mountains.
For us there was also loads of low lying cloud, which was moving so quickly that sometimes there was a full cloud inversion and then minutes later it would have shifted. It was so incredible you didn’t know where to look!
If that wasn’t enough sunset was happening directly in front of us and casting stunning golden light over the lakes. It was one of those views that is just unforgettable.
We lingered until the sun had almost dropped behind the peaks before the cold finally moved us on. Luckily we’d brought extra layers but even so if you’re just standing still it was freezing.
Regardless of what time of day you are up there it is going to be beautiful. Sunset added to it for us but if you are more comfortable going up in the day time it will still be breathtaking.
The descent
The descent is much easier than the ascent because the path is really good, it’s not one of those tracks that is slippery and hard to come down.
In wet conditions, you may get the odd slippery patch (especially on the grassy sections), but generally speaking it was an easy descent.
It is a lot of downhill in one go though, so you may want poles if your knees object to that!
We came down around half the trail in full darkness and it wasn’t a problem either, just keep an eye out for those huge cow pats!
We lucked out with a clear night sky and the stars were incredible, you could see the full Milky Way which was the perfect end to an amazing hike.
If you’ve been weighing up whether to walk this trail or Roys Peak, we have you covered on which is the best in this guide.
Isthmus Peak sunrise vs sunset
When you reach the top of Isthmus Peak, the sun will be setting directly in front of you and that is a magical view. However, the downside is that as you are walking up the trail it will all be in shadow.
That’s no problem just for appreciating the views, but if you’re keen on photography it’s not the ideal light.
The views at sunset
If you come up for sunrise it won’t rise above the summit area itself, but it will rise over Lake Hawea which would be amazing too. Your descent would then all be softly lit with the early morning light, which is ideal for photos.
The trail in shadow at sunset
For just appreciating the views both times would be great, and for me the preference would be sunset because I prefer later starts!
Essential information about the Isthmus Peak Track
Trail closure dates
The Isthmus Peak Track closes annually for fawning between 20 November and 20 December.
Winter conditions
Although we hiked in winter we didn’t experience snow or ice. However, the track can have both and also crosses some avalanche paths. It’s a good idea to give the DOC office in Wanaka a call before you go if you’re hiking in winter. They are extremely helpful and can give you the full low down.
Where to park for the trailhead
There are two car parks for the track. One is tiny with room for maybe around five cars, known as ‘Small parking Isthmus Peak’ on Google Maps. There is another larger car park further up the road too.
It’s just under a 30 minute drive from Wanaka.
A note on weather
Even in summer the weather can change rapidly around this area so it’s a good idea to bring layers with you just in case. There is little shade or protection from the elements along the track.
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