Karl WP Beyer Shortly before Christmas, our cruise ship, the Celebrity Eclipse, docks in Puerto Madryn. The port city with more than 81.000 inhabitants is located on the Golfo Nuevo in the Argentine part of Patagonia. Our first visual impression: Steppe-like landscape of the Patagonian Meseta surrounds the day's destination and a chain of hills can be seen in the background.
Puerto Madryn - View of the Golfo Nuevo
Puerto Madryn - Cruise ship pier with the Celebrity Eclipse
Puerto Madryn is considered the gateway to the Valdés Peninsula further north. The tourist attractions of the peninsula are approximately 150 kilometers away. In the south of Puerto Madryn lies the penguin colony of Punta Tombo, which counts several hundred thousand animals. By then it's even 180 kilometers. Under Puerto Madryn let's go into these sights in more detail.
Both are interesting goals; However, the distances put us off. We stay nearby and visit the sea lions of Punta Loma on our own. Afterwards we visit the Fundación EcoCentro, located just outside Puerto Madryn. From there we walk about five kilometers back to the city center.
Puerto Madryn - Buses waiting in the harbor area
Visit the sea lions and cormorants of Punta Loma
Taxis are available for tours in the center, near the Luis Piedra Buena Pier. Dispatchers regulate the distribution of passengers among taxis. We name the “Lobos Marinos” as our destination and are immediately assigned a taxi. And we're lucky: our driver drives carefully, is friendly and he even understands a few words of English. Otherwise we would have a problem because we don't speak Spanish. But where there is a will, there is often a way.
Travel costs in 2018: $50. Duration of stay in Punta Loma: 45 minutes.
Luis Piedra Buena Pier
The cliffs of Punta Loma are located 20 kilometers south of the city. Cormorants live on ledges of the cliffs. Below the birds, many sea lions lounge on a stretch of beach and in caves washed out by the Atlantic. A conservative estimate is that there are probably more than 100 half-grown and adult animals that let the sun shine on their fur. Seagulls and other birds also live above the cliff. Animal observations can be made from two separate viewing points above the coast. In the area, right next to the parking spaces, there is a conservation checkpoint and information post. Guests of the Celebrity Eclipse are warmly welcomed. Sure, a cruise ship is always good for business.
Visit to the Fundación EcoCentro
Like the way there, about half of the way back is on dusty gravel roads. We ask our driver to drop us off at the Fundación EcoCentro at the southern entrance of Puerto Madryn.
Puerto Madryn - EcoCentro
Puerto Madryn - Access to EcoCentro
Since 2000, the private non-profit organization behind the foundation has made it its mission to promote respect and understanding for the maritime world of Patagonia. Video installations, diagrams, skeletons of whales and dolphins, a tide pool and much more inform visitors. Supervisors offer information in good English without being asked. There's a small cafeteria, and you can watch the sea from a tower room and an open observation deck.
Admission as of 2024: 9500 Argentine pesos (approx. 10,50 euros).
Fundación EcoCentro - Skeleton of a southern right whale
Fundación EcoCentro - Skeleton of a dolphin
Puerto Madryn's extensive beach and several monuments
We walk the way back to the center. To do this, we simply follow the almost five kilometer long waterfront promenade. The EcoCentro is located on a cliff above the sea. The well-maintained footpath slowly descends to sea level.
Halfway up we pass the Parque Histórico Punta Cuevas. If you like, you can take a look at the cave dwellings of the first settlers from Wales. The Welsh settled in the area in 1865. A small, inconspicuous museum can be visited. Nearby is the “El Indio” monument dedicated to the Tehuelche Indians. The Tehuelche were the indigenous tribe that originally populated Patagonia.
Puerto Madryn - Museum of Desembarco
Puerto Madryn - Monument El Indio
When we arrive at sea level, we admire the wide, natural beach. We pass bars, restaurants and diving schools. Puerto Madryn is a major diving center in Argentina.
Puerto Madryn - wide, natural beach
Puerto Madryn - Yoaquina Beach Bar
The wide, lightly trafficked riverside road runs next to us. In the middle of the street we suddenly see a monument to Don Quixote and his squire Sancho Panza. However, it is not clear to us what connection Cervantes' “Knight of the Sad Figure” has to Puerto Madryn.
Puerto Madryn - Embankment Av. Julio Argentino Roca
Puerto Madryn - Don Quixote Monument
Later we see Villarino's propeller and the monument to the Welsh settlers. Villarino's propeller is a ship's propeller. She belonged to the ship ARA Villarino of the Argentine Navy. The ship brought the remains of the Argentine freedom fighter San Martín back to Argentina from France in 1880.
Villarino's propeller
At the height of the Luis Piedra Buena Pier, we see a mighty stylized whale fluke in a roundabout. No wonder, whale watching can be done off Puerto Madryn during the season. And the sculpture of a penguin should not be missing on the promenade. After all, many of the cute birds settle in southern Latin America and Antarctica.
Puerto Madryn - whale fluke in the center
Puerto Madryn - Penguin sculpture
A final and special monument stands on the arterial road to the north. It is the Monumento a Caidos en Malvinas. It is dedicated to those killed on the Argentine side in the Falklands War (April to June 1982).
Puerto Madryn - Monument to Caidos in Malvinas
Puerto Madryn offers very little in the downtown area. That's why we break off the tour and take the shuttle bus past the aluminum factory and a ship cemetery back to the ship.
Puerto Madryn - the aluminum smelter in front
Puerto Madryn - the ship cemetery
Conclusion
We received impressions of the steppe landscape of Patagonia. We enjoyed the sea lions of Punta Loma, the EcoCentrum and the hike back to town. Puerto Madryn as a city, on the other hand, did not convince us.
Update February 2024
