Bali, oh Bali… Our trip to Ubud last month was unforgettable in both good and bad ways. And since my Bali Instagram posts and Snapchat stories were some of my highest viewed in quite some time, I decided to write a little more about it. Many of you were really interested to know more about this far and exotic place, while searching for reassurance that your long trip to arrive there one day will be justified by reaching a heavenly destination. We each secretly search for that which is impossible to reach, like magic, perfection and euphoria, and some of us seek it through travel. This is not a travel guide, nor will I only be sharing all the things I loved. This is my personal experience in Bali, where I will be sharing the good, the bad and the ugly. Please do bear in mind that Bali, especially, has many mixed reviews and people who go there either love it or hate it. And here are my two cents.
One of the reasons I was excited to move to Doha is because of its closer proximity to the Far East, and my ability to more easily travel there. Most cities are one direct flight away from Qatar, and flying Qatar Airways is a treat on its own. For this reason, when looking into destinations for our Easter vacation, I naturally didn’t want to go to the more cliché destinations, so we looked into places like the Seychelles, Bali, Cambodia, and Sri Lanka. Since we had just been to the Maldives earlier this year, we decided to postpone the Seychelles for a little longer. Cambodia seemed a bit too far, and Sri Lanka felt a little too close and not as tempting as Bali, which was high up on our bucket list.
And Bali it was.
We figured, since we are looking for something new and different, why don’t we head right into the jungle, instead of playing it safe and staying somewhere by the sea? And that’s how we ended up in the lush and picturesque Ubud.
With pure indulgence on our minds, we booked a deluxe villa with a private infinity pool at a five-star luxury resort, the Kamandalu Ubud. My hubby and I love exploring new cities, but there’s nothing we love more than being pampered when we travel. We enjoy the hotel as much as we enjoy the city itself, which is why we always make sure to stay at really nice hotels. From my experience, staying at a bad hotel could ruin the entire city and travel experience for you.
Tip: When traveling on a budget, try booking your hotel in advance under a refundable, free cancellation rate. This gives you the flexibility to cancel at any time you have a change of plans. Alternatives to the five-star hotel are the boutique design hotel or the luxury B&B. Look for these hidden gems in any city you wish to travel to. There are many, and with the right research, you will always find the right place to stay. Some of my friends have tried Airbnb and swear by it. To be honest, it’s not my cup of tea and I doubt I’ll ever be a customer, but it’s worth a try when traveling on a budget or for longer periods of time. I’ve been told that some of their properties apparently rival staying at the finest hotels.
Our hotel, which we had booked after extensive research, gave us the wrong villa on our first night, which turned that first night at the resort into a horror movie. I remember seeing all sorts of insects creep up on me in bed, waking up to find a weird looking, creepy AF insect with antennas or antlers or two penises on its head staring right at me from across my pillow. Once that nightmare was over and a few tears were shed, I tried to fall asleep despite all types of bizarre sounds – from inside our room. At one point, I wasn’t sure what was worse: the sound of my crying, the sound of the crazy lizard in our room, or the sound of Toufic’s snoring. After only one hour of forced sleep, with the help of our (useless) mosquito net, I had my answer when I was awakened by the furious screams of a gecko, who happened to be resting in our thatched roof, right above our heads, right inside our room. I was already jetlagged, so I figured the next best thing is to Google about this bizarre creature.
Why do geckos make such sounds at night?
And I got my answer on Quora.com:
Many geckos, especially young ones, vocalize when they are upset or threatened. Others use their clicking and chirping noises as communication, especially with other geckos. They likely are saying simple things like “I am here,” “Danger!,” and “Who wants to mate?”
Oh HELL NO!
So, from what I understood, that crazy little creature was feeling threatened by my husband and I, pissed off AF that we had taken over its villa, and horny AF, inviting the other geckos (who were most likely also in our room) to mate.
I was enraged at this predicament and couldn’t sleep an hour longer. I was up from 3 AM till the next morning, pleading with my snoring husband to wake up. After three packs of Oreos, hours of research, and an entire night of listening to geckos chirping and wailing, I had actually grown quite fond of those sounds and was starting to feel just a little bit crazy and hostile.
And although I may have made peace with their clicking sounds, I was nowhere near ready to share a room with that harmless creature (which, according to my wild imagination, could crawl into my ear or mouth and lay eggs in my esophagus while I slept). No. I wasn’t having that.
I remember calling housekeeping and asking (screaming at) them to come and “kill the lizard”. Whether I offended them or not was the last thing on my mind at this point. I was on less than two hours of sleep, feeling jetlagged, sick, and dirty. While Toufic enjoyed his breakfast, I spent my morning scouring our villa and emptying two cans of bug spray, trying to find and kill any insect that could have escaped my eye. Where was the luxurious experience we had paid for?
And while my surprisingly laid-back husband enjoyed our pool and the ants that came with it, I decided to do some research – lots of it – about Ubud and what to expect. Here are some of the things I read online and would like to share with you, to prepare you for your upcoming trip in case you were slightly naïve like me:
- Whether you stay at a hostel or at your own private luxury villa at the finest five-star resort, you can’t really avoid the insects, geckos, or monkeys. Remember, you are in their home. You are the intruder, and you must accept to live in harmony with them.
Once I read this, my dreams of one day helping save the world’s ecosystem ended. I decided I would happily live in a city for the rest of my life, minding my own business away from all sorts of nasty insects and creatures of the wild. I also explained to my husband, Toufic, that I was ready to return to Doha – a remark that he completely ignored.
But then I read this:
- Come to Ubud with an informed and open mind. That’s the only way you will enjoy your experience.
And after reading that, I decided what the heck. It’s worth having an open mind after a ten-hour flight. I’m going to give it a shot. #newbeginnings #openmind
And then I read some more:
- Turn off your phone and forget technology for a few days.
Bitch, no. I just flew ten hours and drove two extra hours right into the jungle. The least I’m going to do is take photos of everything.
With my newfound wisdom and serenity, I decided to look at photos of our resort to perhaps start loving it again. And that’s when I saw a picture of the villa we actually chose. I looked around me at the tired (half the size, no infinity pool, just a mosquito pool, too many lizards, army of ants) property we were staying in, and I was livid. This definitely was not it. After riling up Toufic at the horror we had just experienced, I then called the reception and asked them for an early checkout. I was done with this place. The manager came over to explain that they would be transferring us to our designated villa ASAP. I screamed a little and may have thrown a bottle at another army of ants. Toufic told me to shut up a few times. I then threatened to write a bad review (which I guess I’m sort of doing now), and finally agreed to move villas.
From the moment we moved, the entire vacation transformed. The villa itself was magnificent, and the view was surreal. What a beautiful jungle paradise this was. Were there still insects everywhere? You bet your ass there were! In the living room, around the pool, and the cherry on top was the lizard droppings on top of our mosquito net and on the floor of our bedroom upon returning from dinner. But that’s the thing. We were in a jungle; right in the middle of it. It took me a good 36 hours to comprehend that and let it sink in. It’s only natural to run into that amount of reptiles and insects; which I was expecting and accepting … just not inside our room. But, from that moment onwards, I embraced the trip with a higher level of awareness and acceptance (and nausea).
Our next few days consisted of long, lazy afternoons by the pool, or by the resort’s picturesque infinity pool (which we both fell in love with and is possibly the best part of the resort), sipping mocktails and cocktails by the pool bar, eating breakfast in our pool, and taking in all that view. The view was everything. I saw so much greenery, I had green vision for days. The sound of the jungle was the most soothing thing you could possibly imagine, and we found ourselves falling asleep several times during the day as a result of extreme relaxation. Little by little, and without realizing, we started paying less attention to the dirt and insects, and becoming more aware of our surroundings and all the beauty and magic around us. I felt so grateful. We also managed to do a little bit of trekking along the rice paddies, which is an experience we will both never forget. It was breathtakingly beautiful. We then visited the Holy Water Temple, a magical place of prayer, peace, gratitude, love, and centuries of tradition and faith. By the time our trip came to an end, we did wish we could have spent an extra day or two (believe it or not) because of the addictive serenity we felt there. We both felt so blessed to have been able to take part in this experience. What started as a horrifying trip turned into a journey of discovering a simpler, calmer way of life; embracing the new; overcoming fears; and learning more about a mystic culture that has caught the entire world’s attention while managing to remain so secluded.
That being said, I’m summarizing my trip into a few helpful points that could be useful to you if you’re visiting Ubud.
The positives of the resort:
- Our second villa
- The common infinity pool and bar area
- The Balinese massage (of course)
- The grounds
- The mini rice paddies
- The location
- The outdoor showers
- The yoga house
- The floating breakfast
The negatives of the resort:
- The food
- The service response rate
- The first villa we stayed in
- The mini bar
- The insects – everywhere
Where to dine in Ubud:
My favorite restaurant was the Cascades at the Viceroy. Although I wasn’t impressed by the food in Bali, this place was certainly better than the rest. I must admit, I’m personally not a fan of Indonesian cuisine - the thought of which still makes me feel queasy – but it’s definitely worth a try.
Where to stay in Ubud:
Although we did end up having a great stay, I doubt I would ever return to that resort again or recommend it to anyone; mainly due to their lack of attention to detail and underwhelming food. Too many mistakes were made in too short a time.
The resorts that I would try and recommend are the following:
Como Uma Ubud
Hanging Gardens of Bali
Komaneka at Bisma Ubud
These resorts are highly rated and have all the necessary elements to make your stay a memorable one. Let’s hope they don’t disappoint.
What to pack:
Most renowned resorts will offer insect repellent in their rooms, but just in case, get a couple of bottles of “OFF!” with you. I’ve heard that mosquitoes in Bali can give you Malaria, Zika virus and Dengue fever.
Forget about your heels and pretty shoes. Take flip flops, flats, and comfortable hiking shoes. I wouldn’t advise taking more than two to three pairs of versatile shoes with you.
Light, airy dresses, denim shorts, flowy skirts and tank tops will be the most useful to you during your stay. It got rather hot and sticky at times, and I was grateful to have comfortable, light clothes with me.
There’s no need for too much makeup. You’ll need your sunscreen, bronzer, lip balm, brow shaper and mascara. Forget about your liquid foundation for a few days. I definitely needed my mineral powder to blot out all that shine.
And just in case, take some antihistamines, allergy creams, stomach meds (who knows what might happen) and Paracetamol.
Where to go:
- Tegalalang Rice Terraces: This is definitely one of the most magical places I’ve ever seen in all the cities I’ve visited. Whether you’re staying in Ubud or not, do make some time in your itinerary to see this place. Wear comfortable clothing and hiking shoes.
- The Tirta Empul Tampaksiring Holy Water Temple: What a mystical, unique experience this is. Be mindful of the traditions and don’t forget to wear a sarong. If you didn’t have the chance to buy one before going there, don’t worry, they rent them out at the entrance.
- The Ubud Monkey Forest: A beautiful, sacred, and magical place that is straight out of an Indiana Jones movie - and you can play with the monkeys. But, be careful as some people have reported serious aggression from these (not always) adorable creatures, as well as theft, and some cases of rabies.
- The market: Make sure to bargain; you will be surprised at the price reductions you’ll get. Buy a wooden penis (or several wooden penises), which symbolize good luck (and are great for a laugh once you’re back home).
Traveler tips:
- Choose where to eat very wisely. I’ve heard of countless cases of food poisoning from people I know that traveled to Bali.
- When traveling on a budget, be mindful of where you stay to prevent getting bed bugs. Yes, this is also something that many people I know complained about. I. would. die.
- Leave your valuables at home. This means, your diamonds, gold, super high-tech, expensive camera, and all that jazz. If you don’t believe me, go to Google and do the relevant research. I’m grateful that we didn’t experience any theft, but that’s partly because I didn’t even take a single designer bag or pair of earrings with me.
- Do your research before you go. Bali is a beautiful place, but you must be very aware of how it is before you visit. Many people expect the whole “paradise found” experience without realizing that it comes with its discomforts (dirt, insects, reptiles, theft, and IMO, bad food). Once you have done the right research and prepared yourself mentally, you are bound to choose the right location for you in Bali and have a good time.
And finally, to answer some questions I’ve been asked:
Do I regret visiting Ubud? I most certainly do not. It was so different than anywhere I’ve ever been, and we all need to go somewhere far and new every once in a while. This is what travel is all about.
Will I return? Not any time soon. I’ve had my dose for the next few years. Plus, the next time I get on a plane for over 10 hours, it will not be to the same destination. I have other distant and new countries in mind that I would like visit in the near future, many of which are in South America and the Far East – so fingers crossed.
Would I recommend Bali to others? I only visited Ubud, so I cannot recommend Bali in general. I certainly do recommend Ubud though, despite some of the discomforts I experienced. It’s an unforgettable place that is worth a visit at least once in a lifetime.
Would I recommend Bali as a honeymoon destination? Once again, I only visited Ubud, but I personally do not recommend it as a honeymoon destination. After our wedding, all I wanted to do was relax and do nothing for two weeks. I wanted luxury, romance, relaxation, serenity and a slower pace. I wanted stress-free living away from everyone, and that’s exactly what we did. We got all that and more by going to the Maldives. There are many who have gone to Bali on honeymoon and loved it. I’m simply basing my recommendation on personal experience when I say that sharing a room with reptiles and insects is not what I consider to be relaxing or befitting of a honeymoon.
Is Bali expensive? The best part about Bali is that it doesn’t break the bank. It’s actually one of the most affordable places we’ve ever traveled to, and, apart from ticket price, isn’t costly at all.
When is the best time to visit Bali? Although most people go there during the summer, IMO the best time to visit is between April and June, when it’s less packed, humid, touristy, and pricey.
Was Bali what I expected it to be? In so many ways, Ubud was much more than I expected; its lush greenery, sounds of the jungle, serenity, and uniqueness. And in so many ways, it did disappoint; the food, service and hygiene.
Once again, traveling is very personal. My favorite city in the world is NYC, and some people absolutely hate it for the same reasons that I love it. There are also cities I couldn’t bear ever visiting again, but there are so many people that love and enjoy them so much that they return every year. The best advice I can give you is to travel to places you genuinely believe you will love based on your personality and research, not based on what people tell you or what’s trending now. I’m so happy to have scratched Ubud off my bucket list, and when I think back on those incredible four days, I don’t think of the insects and lizards, or of the disappointing food. I look back and remember the uncontrollable laughter with my husband, the unforgettable places we visited, the long hours by the pool, the outdoor showers (yes, lizards were present too), and how for just a short time, it felt like we were the only two people on this blue planet, so far from everyone else we know. And this, my friends, is why you take the risk, and travel far from your comfort zone. At least every once in a while.
