Not a lot of people visiting Argentina are going to put Villa de Merlo on their itinerary, but it’s one of those off-the-beaten-path destinations that’s worth spending a day in. Most tourists will head to Buenos Aires, Mendoza, Cordoba, Patagonia, and Iguazu Falls. Yet some of the smaller towns are nice too.
Villa de Merlo, San Luis
Villa de Merlo – pronounced ve-zha in Argentinian Spanish – is a small town in San Luis province, between Cordoba and Mendoza. It’s often just called Merlo, but there’s also a Merlo neighborhood in Buenos Aires, so that gets confusing. Villa de Merlo only has a population of a little over 10,000 people, but surprisingly also has one of the oldest colonial buildings in Argentina. The first settlers arrived here in 1794, and the town was established in 1796. Most of the current inhabitants are of European descent, but I also found quite a few American expats living there.
One of the main marketing gimmicks of Villa de Merlo is the “microclimate” there. I wasn’t able to find exactly what this referred to, or if it really existed. Still, the town is marketed as having its own unique climate separate from nearby parts of Argentina. It thus is a big draw to other Argentinians looking for a good holiday spot. In the summer (winter in the northern hemisphere), it can be quite busy. Aside from a nice climate, there are some interesting attractions to visit.
Algarrobo Abuelo – The Grandfather Carob Tree
On the western side of town is a huge, sprawling carob tree. The tree is said to be over 1,200 years old, it’s one of the oldest trees in South America. Most of the local tours passing through Merlo stop at this tree to see the spreading branches. True, it’s not as impressive as some of the old giant sequoias, but neither are bristlecone pines. The entrance fee is nominal at only a couple dollars, but prices are changing quickly in Argentina.
Hiking in the Comechingones Mountains
Bordering Villa de Merlo to the east are the Comechingones Mountains. These red stone mountains aren’t huge, but they’re beautiful, especially with the setting sun lighting them up. About 30 years ago, the road up the mountains was paved, which coincided with Villa de Merlo becoming a tourist spot for other Argentinians. Driving to the plains at the top of the mountains is a major attraction. There’s horseback riding, hiking, waterfalls, and plenty of viewpoints to look out over Merlo and the surrounding countryside.
I went up a few times myself. Sometimes I had a great view of Merlo, and sometimes I was above the clouds, or occasionally in the clouds. I’d definitely recommend jumping on one of the organized tours from Merlo to go hiking or horseback riding to some of the waterfalls.
A Waypoint Between Cordoba and Mendoza
If you’re traveling between Cordoba and Mendoza (an 8-hour drive or 13-hour bus ride), Villa de Merlo is the perfect stop on the way. You can also reach Merlo easily with an overnight bus from Buenos Aires, or fly in if you don’t mind spending a bit extra. The countryside between the major cities in Argentina can be a bit plain at times, so stopping in some of the small villages is a great option. If you are headed down from Cordoba to Merlo, stop at Café de Montaña in San Javier about an hour north of Merlo. Best lunch and coffee in the region!
